Inboard Engine help needed

[Noah]

Ok, for better or worse I purchased the 1963 or so 19ft Penn Yan inboard/outboard boat that I asked about in the Misc. section.

It seems to be in decent shape. There are a few problems here and there, but nothing too major. Still, I need another boat like I need a hole in my head. Oh well, the price was right. $325 including boat, motor, outdrive, and trailer. Also lots of cushions, fenders, etc.

Anyway, I have no idea what the motor is. IE who made it etc. It is a "100hp" (says so in a big sticker on the valve cover) inline 6. On both the Tach, and in the back of the engine it has the words "Intercepter", and a serial # but nothing else. I can't find a manufacturer tag on it anywhere. Does anyone know the specifics of who made this thing, and where I could find more information on it?

Also, it didn't come with a coil. I'm pretty sure that it is a 12 volt system, but I don't know if I should use a coil that needs a external resistor or not.

The Outdrive is an "Eaton, Powernaut." Anyone know anything about this thing. It looks big and bulky.

Thanks for your help, I'm hoping to get the motor started today. Then I will know what I'm dealing with.

Noah

[Noah]

Anyone? I really need help with this...

Even if you don't know what kind of Engine it is, how about filling me in on how you would connect the coil.

I would imagine that you give it 12 volts to the + side and then ground it. Do you ground it out to the distributor, or to something else. There is a black ground wire running to the distributor. It looks like it connects to a big capacitor of somesort inside the dist.

Unfortunately my car doesn't have either a Dist, or a coil, so I can't try to figure it out from there...

Noah

[Donn]

Noah...Interceptor is a Ford engine, but I can't help you with the coil question.

Here's a link where you can buy a manual for the powernaut:

http://www.vmsl.com/inboard.htm

Also note the Eaton Interceptors listed on that link.

= = = = =

Eaton Powernaut:
http://www.fiberglassics.com/engine/eaton/eatonback02.jpg

[ 06-03-2002, 03:12 PM: Message edited by: donnwest ]

[nedL]

Noh, I'll do what I can for now. First- sorry, I can't stretch my brain cells enough to remember what engine the "Interceptor" was based on. They used to be a real common marine engine name. It is a common automobile engine for sure.
As for the coil, the internal resistor, which drops the voltage in the primary winding is pretty much to keep the points from burning(if I remember correctly). You can't go wrong if you buy a coil with the internal resistor.
The 12 volt+ wire goes to the small termal marked (+) on the coil, and then the small terminal marked (-) on the coil will be connected to a wire that leads to the points inside the distributor. The condensor (that round thing inside the distr.) will also be connected to the points.
You should set the gap on the points to about .020" & make sure the points are clean.
-- & the firing order on a six cyl. engine is always 1,5,3,6,2,4.
Good luck!

[John Teetsel]

Dredging W A Y back in my memory, I seem to remember that the large coil wire goes to the center of the distributor, which fires the plugs. There should be two smaller wires that connect to the {change distributor to coil} coil. One is the positive side from the alt/gen, the other connects to the capacitor in the distributor.

Can you post any pics?

[ 06-03-2002, 05:30 PM: Message edited by: JohnT ]

[Noah]

Thanks!

I did have the ignition setup correctly, but the points were too dirty. I had already cleaned them once, but seems it wasn't enough. I guess that I'm proving my age here. I started playing with engines in the fuel injected age. Oh well.

I still can't get the damm thing started though. Seems like I'm getting spark where I should, but no go. I have fuel in the bowl, but it is the old stuff. I will try draining and cleaning out the screen to see if that helps. I may try some starter fluid in the carb too.

Noah

[nedL]

A bit of starting fluid (ether) should help, or you can pull the plugs & dump about a teaspoon of gas in each cylinder. - Better yet, if it is a downdraft carb. (most likely is) you can dump a 'couple of tablespoons' of gas down the throat of the carb.
Is the choke closing?

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by nedL:
...Is the choke closing?What's a choke, LOL. Give that baby a big dose of ether and stand back, WAY BACK. (You might want to check for spark at the plugs, but I'd go for the ether first.)

Actually, if the boat's floating, you might want to have an escape route planned in case you got carried away with the ether... If the gas is ancient the jets could well be crapped up too. Yank the throttle open and watch to see if any gas gets squirted into the venturi from the axcellerator pump. Just because there's gas in the float bowl doesn't mean it's getting thru all the itty bitty little passeges within.

(All these great old words, fun, huh)

[ 06-03-2002, 05:35 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[John Teetsel]

Give that baby a big dose of ether and stand back, WAY BACK Reminds me of the old Harley Sportster I rebuild in college. I reassembled the distributor 180 degrees out. On the first attempted kick start, I was launched over the handle bars into the yard. When the feeling came back to my leg, I pushed the moster to the top of the hill by the house, gave her a squirt of gas into the carb, and rolled off down the hill. When I flipped the switch and popped the clutch, a really impressive stream of fire lept from the carb, around my leg, and up my back. Of course it was a cut-offs and tee shirt kind of day. The girls across the street said it was really quite a sight. :eek: redface.gif It took the rest of the year for all the hair to grow back.

Yea, stand WAY back, have an escape route, fire extinguisher, wet towels, ambulance,... smile.gif

[Noah]

Yeah, so it still isn't running. Almost, but not really.

I have spark at the points, and at all the plugs.

I have sprayed quite a bit of "liquid fire" into the carb, and it almost starts, but not quite. I went and filled the tank with some new gas, but I'm still not sure the carb is getting gas.

It is a sidedraft carb, plus it has some sort of screen crap on there to prevent backfires or something, so I haven't gone poking in there yet. Maybe tomorrow...

My dad and I have an old 55 Chevy with a downdraft, and I remember pouring gas down that carb to get it going, but it is tough to get that to work on the side draft.

BTW, the Coil is getting pretty hot. What does that mean? I'm running a non external resistor coil, and this could be the problem.

Anyway, more luck tomorrow I guess. I'm going sailing now!

Noah

[Gordon Bartlett]

You said you have spark "at the points". Sparking at the points should be minimal. I've seen bright sparking at the points several times; in each case it was caused by a failed condenser (capacitor). By the way, be sure to look carefully at the distributor and try to determine who made it. The guys who marinized these engines used a "mix and match" approach to choosing components. I once had a Chrysler 318 with a Ford distributor. More recently my son's boat had a Ford engine which had a non-Ford distributor; Delco I think.

[JLM]

coils will get warm when powered up but not hot.
after all its putting out around 15 to 20,000v
to get gas in a side draft carb take an old oil can (the one with the pump handle)and fill with gas and squirt it in if the motor starts and stalls right away clean out the carb.if the motor shoots a flame out the carb check your timing.

best of luck JLM :D

[Mr. Know It All]

Noah......Parts and good advice---> http://www.lakelandautomarine.com/
Ask for Bruce or Chris.
Peace---> Kevin in Ohio

[nedL]

Noah, If it's almost starting, but not quite, I'd suggest pulling all the spark plugs & squirting a good 3-4 squirts of oil into each cylinder & then turning the engine over a fair bit. If the engine has been sitting for a long time things may be dried out & the rings may not be seating well. The good couple of squirts of oil will get the rings to seal better & will raise the compression noticably. - this may not sound like much but on more than a few occations this was the only thing that got a few engines to start for me (even after 15 years). Besides its a good idea for the cylinder walls anyway.

[Dan-Q]

Noah, I had a similar problem trying to start a 283 V8. It would almost start but not quite. Turned out I screwed up in rewiring the firing order. What I thought was no.1 cylinder was not. I had the wrong end of the block. (The ends are sort of reversed on a marine engine compared to an automobile. ) Double check if you have no.1 down right.

[Garrett Lowell]

And speaking of spark plugs, are these new? Or in good condition?

[brian.cunningham]

If it is indeed a old Ford engine ( look for the "Blue Oval" ) then a manual for an old Ford pickup would help you with the mechanicals.

Keep in mind that the engine has been "marinarized" so the fuel and electrics have been changed so it won't leak fumes and then ignite them.

[ 06-04-2002, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: brian.cunningham ]

[Noah]

Well I just got her running for a few minutes. I cleaned out the carb, figured out that the Morse controls were stopping the engine from starting when it was "floored", and crossed my fingers.

She ran good, not much smoke at all, and sounded really nice. There are some leaks in the water jacket though. One crack, and water coming from behind the starter motor. I'm not sure where it was coming from, and hopefully I get fix those.

How do people go about fixing a cracked water jacket? Welding? JB Weld? Etc?

The crack is in the middle of a flat surface, so I would guess that it wouldn't be too hard to tap the old one, and bolt on a piece over the crack. Or something...I don't really wanna spend much on this boat.

Noah

[Alan D. Hyde]

Detach the fuel line just before the carb, and see if gas is getting that far.

If not, work your way back and see why not.

Engines that seem almost ready to start on ether, sometimes aren't starting for lack of gas.

Alan

Evidently, our posts crossed in the ether, Noah. Ignore the above, then, but JB Weld IS good stuff!

[ 06-04-2002, 05:06 PM: Message edited by: Alan D. Hyde ]

[John Teetsel]

Might that water jacket be leaking into a cylinder too? Done a compression test yet?

Can you convert it to sail? :D

[ 06-04-2002, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: JohnT ]

[brian.cunningham]

cracks can be welded.
go ahead and try the JB Weld

Was this run in salt water?

If so it might be rusted, the thin metal would have cracked. If so it can be replaced. The weld should hold for a while though.

[stokeswood]

Noah - Looking through some old "Popular Boating" mags, I found that Interceptor Engines, as of 1958, were made by Dearborn Marine Engines, Inc. Their models ranged from 125 to 215 hp., and appear to be Ford based, although I seem to recall some connection to either IH or John Deere.
By 1961, Dearborn Marine had become a division of Eaton Mfg. Co. with a different line of models, including an 85/100 hp inline 6. I believe it's a marinized tractor engine.