Haul off

[TANSTAF1]

I finally got tired of my haul off ropes getting twisted around each other. I had been using two pulleys on land spread about 8 feet apart to try to keep the inbound and outbound ropes apart. But this did not always do it. So now I put a plank out on the mooring and two pulleys about 4 feet apart. So now the ropes make a big rectangle and do not spin the pulley and cause the ropes to twist around themselves. So far I am happy with this new arrangement.

At low tide I have a mud bottom and about 4 feet of water at the rock ledges at high tide with about a 12 foot tide.

My only remaining problem is when seaweed gets caught in the pulley. Anyone got good ideas for elevating (most of) the ropes out of the water? i am using about a 100 foot run.

[Thorne]

The only solution I've read about is to use a metal ring / loop instead of a block / pully. Make the ring large enough to let any seaweed or whatever pass thru...

I used an old ring oarlock for this last year at the TSCA Marshal Beach campout, worked well with the shorter line and shoreweeds...

[TerryLL]

These blocks work pretty well for outhaul lines. The 6" block will pass just about any seaweed except giant wads of bull kelp. Commonly known as trolling blocks on the West coast. All plastic and stainless. Available from most fisheries supplies stores.

http://www.blueoceantackle.com/Pacific_King_Nylon_Block.JPG

[Canoeyawl]

I use two 4" dia pvc pipe elbows glued with a short joint of pipe between. You know the light weight stuff used for sewer waste?
No pulley - the weed goes right on through

[rbgarr]

A weighted-on-one-end log (a 'spar buoy') instead of a mooring buoy will stand almost upright most of the time, keeping the hauloff line more clear of the water. That and a large ring at the head instead of a pulley will work okay, but a hundred feet of distance from the buoy to shore is a long way to keep a line clear.

[htom]

The PVC C shape, built of a length of pipe and two 90º elbows is the neatest solution I've seen. You could make a fancier version with T joints, add a cap on one end, glue a weight into it, and a long piece above, with a cap on that, and have a kind of spar buoy. Filled with water, it would sink, but if you emptied it, there would be air trapped in the upright and it might float so for a while. Probably better to have the upper part sealed.

[Bill Perkins]

Here are drawings of 2 out haul buoys as I saw them in Blue Hill Bay Maine a while back .

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3427/3858079832_b2f778fb75.jpg
The most prevalent were the square ones made from about 3 in.diam. PVC. The bends are long sweep 90deg. The mooring line is hitched to one corner , the out haul runs on the other .It's one big unstoppable dumb sheave .They were about 2 1/2 feet sq.,so they resist flipping . It sounds like CanoeYawl is useing something similar on the West coast.

The older wooden type is designed to resist flipping too .The out haul bore on a plastic or bronze pipe bushing on those .So; no twisting of the line from these buoys at least .

There were some long out hauls in that bay (about 10 ft. vertical tide range ),and some of the shore side connections -looked like iron ring bolts driven into the granite -were clearly generations old .

[Canoeyawl]

I use seine corks on the bridle ends to keep it from flipping
(Short Bridle to rode - Also, I use black ABS pipe, which floats, the back haul is 300 feet total, that puts me up to 150 feet from the beach)
This rig is for beach camping so it can pack up and go with. Except for the pipe bits it all fits in a five gallon bucket. I saw the original idea on the internet, an Alaskan deal, where the tides can be something to reckon with.
Some of the slickest back hauls I can remember were semi-permanent at Stockton Springs, a pole set out at the mooring above the tide height, w/ a pulley at the top of the pole like a clothes line. The line wasn't in the water.
These were taken down in winter. There probably still there today, I haven't been back in a few years.