Marine tri-power info?

[62 woodie]

Im currently in the process of re-building a 283 for a future repower in one of my inboards. The engine was originally a 4bbl setup. I've got an aluminum marine tri-power intake that has been hanging on my wall for years.

We believe it was a circa 1958 item used on Crusader. I would love to get this intake back in use. Unfortunately there are no carbs with it. Im looking for anyone that might have information on this, or even better, maybe an engine manual?

here are a few pics...

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/kten72/tpower01.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/kten72/tpower03rs.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e69/kten72/tpower04rs.jpg

Heres a pic of the ad dated Nov. 1957...

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/42404/2229743860103439384S600x600Q85.jpg (http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2229743860103439384PqyjGU)


the carb bolt pattern is the small Rochester. Any info on what carbs could be used, or leads on who may know about this would be appreciated!

[outofthenorm]

Can't help you Woodie, but are you aware of the "Old Engine" forum?

Lot of engine-savvy guys there too.

http://www.oldmarineengine.com/

[mobjack68]

go to ebay...search for "tri power" in quotes...
There are some information pieces that can be gained here. Prices for one..last time I went looking at those, a set of carbs was about 500 with linkage. You may end up finding the linkage separate from the carbs.

The two end carbs are basic no frills carbs WITHOUT CHOKE MECHANISM, thus they must be the same (matched with identical jets, etc) the middle carb and the most elusive, needs to be the same family as the end carbs, just with a choke on it.

When the carb set was busted up/separated, the middle one was usually called into service first.... that choke thing.

The linkage is as critical as the matching carbs. Linkage needs to be "progressive", that is, the middle carb is asked to give fuel first, the other two carbs will open at pretty much the same time. If all 3 open at once??? well we have seen the videos of college boys laying under a funnel and 3 or 4 people pouring beer in at the same time?? Ever seen a college boy backfire??

And you will need some kind if fuel delivery setup. These are available from most automotive speed shops and some automotive parts places.... PLEASE don't forget air breathers/spark arrestors

[pipefitter]

This is from vague memory, but I recall at least with cars is that it wasn't so much the carbs as it was the progressive linkage setup that was a bitch to work out.

[PaulC]

Wasn't tri-power three 2 bbl carbs, which it looks like should fit your intake manifold perfectly.

[Bluecometk]

62 Woodie, I wish you luck in your searches. I think the best bet would be to look for a 64 Pontiac 326 TRI power car CARB set up. The reason is they were much more plentiful than a Chevy set up and would be calibrated about the same with in reason.

The manifold you have is missing the crossover/thermostat housing. Also note that the 283 would have to be in its conventional position, flywheel towards the trans for this manifold to fit with the wedges facing the correct way. Most set-ups for the 283 are flywheel forward, meaning the trans would be driven from the crank snout as in Chris Craft, Owens flagship conversions.

As a side note unless you intend to show this setup It would possibly be a poor performer as it has no Carb heat passage to keep the Carbs from icing up in your damp bilge. Also as stated by other posters it can be a real pain to get it correct and once you get it correct it will need much attention to keep it that way.

These setups tend to run lean before the out board Carb opening transition and fat everywhere else. Which means every time you want to back into a slip it will want to stall.

Unless you have an old Tri-power manometer set up you will need to use vacuum gauges to tune it correctly which can be quite time consuming.

Don’t get me wrong I certainly applaud you for trying to do this. It will look spectacular when you open the hatches.

I have set up a few and spent hours of time until I got it just rite. I let out a few expletives before it was correct I might add.

As a side note I think you get much better performance from a good NEW single 4bbl set up with a lot less hassle. Heck even the newer Holley projection throttle body set-ups that you tune with a screwdriver would work just fine.

These are just my opinions, hope they help.

GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROJECT!

Bluecometk

[62 woodie]

Thanks for the thoughts and suggestions! To answer a few questions, this 283 is indeed a RH rotation, flywheel aft setup, with a VD71 gearbox behind, so this intake should work from that standpoint.

I know from my old "car days" that tri-power isnt the best/ easiest setups to work with, but I think this setup would be pretty unique on a boat. Im hoping to use this on my "everyday driver", a sixteen foot, 64 Correct Craft American Skier. Im not after "killer" HP, but dependability is very important.

I do have the t.stat crossover from the original 4bbl intake. One thing I was wondering about was the lack of the heat crossover. A couple of other concerns were using automotive carbs instead of marine ones (venting differences?). I have found some small marine Rochesters and a tri power guy that thinks he can convert two of the regular carbs into the outer dumpers. They do this on cars all the time today. If I get by the rest of my "problems", plumbing the carbs should be pretty easy. BTW, there is no way I would run any carb without a flame arrestor.


The other main concern is in the linkage adjustment, since each carb is setting on its own level, getting the progressive linkage in synch could be real fun. In fact I think the engine in the ad actually used vacuum to operate the outer carbs.

Like I was saying, I do have the original 4bbl intake that I think runs a Carter AFB or WCFB. Maybe I need to hide that tri-power intake so I dont have to look at it?!LOL sure would be cool looking tho....

[brad9798]

Hide that tri-power manifold.

Too much trouble. Neat idea ... they can be a pain on dry land (in a car), so they will be more of a pain in the water (boat).

Adding more things that can go wrong on a boat is the incorrect approach! The goal is to simplify and make things easier!

Remember it's not like a car where you can lift the hood and show off all your cool engine stuff!

In a boat, at least a larger one, most people are walking, standing, or sitting on the 'hood' (engine hatches).

I never even think about my original, 45 year-old 283s with their 4-bbl carbs ... I like not thinking about them--gives me more time with the hatches closed!

:)

[Canoeyawl]

Did they use progressive linkage on a marine enine?
Marine engines are basically continuous duty.

[brad9798]

There are progressive setups in marine applications.

A lot of racing engines have progressive setups.

[24hacker]

I had a 57 Chevy with a 283 - 3/4 cam - tri-power - solid lifters - what a great sound when all of those two barrels kicked in - the linkage is the key to performance.

[donsmarine]

rochester 2 jets i believe they were called.