View Full Version : hartley Spindrift 24
Anyone had any experience with the Hartley Spindrift 24?
WX
I started building this yacht in 1986 and pretty much stopped in 1990 and it has sat buried under tarps since then.
Anyway went sailing a couple of weeks ago and got hooked again, so we've ripped the tarps off, scubbed the rat and bat **** out of the bilge, and cut the dryrot out of the cockpit. We've given ourselve 1 year to launch.
if someone had said way back in 86 that it would be 20 years before it hit water i would have laughed.
WX, I'm trying to figure out which boat this is. Does Hartley have a design named Spindrift? If so I couldn't find it, only the Hartley 24.
It use to be known as a Powersailer
http://www.hartley-boats.com/24.html
That's the one I was thinking of. Big and roomy. I once tried to get more info on her by emailing Harley. Might as well have been emailing a brick wall. Let me know if you find out anything.
doorstop
08-15-2005, 02:33 AM
Originally posted by WX:
I started building this yacht in 1986 and pretty much stopped in 1990 and it has sat buried under tarps since then.
Anyway went sailing a couple of weeks ago and got hooked again, so we've ripped the tarps off, scubbed the rat and bat **** out of the bilge, and cut the dryrot out of the cockpit. We've given ourselve 1 year to launch.
if someone had said way back in 86 that it would be 20 years before it hit water i would have laughed.
JimD, what would you like to know?
I have plenty of photos of my boat but none on file yet but I can tell you a lot about the construction or specs...the only thing I can't tell you yet is how they sail.
I have met a bloke who reckoned, and I quote " it's a real witch, it would sail up a wall".
Hartley designed boats for people with basic carpentery skills...bit of wood in one hand and the howto book in the other.
WX, I was mostly interested in ballast and displacement. How much ballast, what material is used, ballast centerboard and/or internal or external ballast, as well as displacement? Think you could trailer her? I realize the beam is 9 feet. At the time I was looking for an easy to build plywood cruiser with standing headroom. The Hartley 24 fit the bill. Thanks.
WX, now that we're in the age of digital cameras perhaps you could get some pics posted for us soon to have a look at your progess so far (you know - before another 20 years go by :D ).
JimD, i will borrow a digital camera tomorrow and take some pictures, I do have a nice of her when the paint was still new...just have to scan it.
As for the keel there are a number of configurations.
1. Solid timber fin with 800 Kg lead ballast (1750 Lbs) draft 4'6"
2. Steel fin keel lead or iron ballast (1745 lbs iron).
3. Bilge keels draft 24.5" ballast 675 lbs per keel.
4. Centreboarder draft plate down 5'9" plate up 2'3", ballast is 12 cwt (appox 1344 lb)fitted below the cabin floor.
you would need a big trailer but it's not uncommon to see 24 footers being towed around.
Hartley Spinddrift in the process of being move using rope, block & tackle and lengths of coperlog.
http://file:/home/gary/Documents/images/sailing/2hartleyspindrift24.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2122208756&idx=1
<http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2122208756&idx=1>
Sorry I can't get the image to display, I've setup a album on Imagestation and tried linking to the forum...but no joy.
Can someone explain to me how I can post an image here?
You have click 'IMAGE' from WBs 'Instant UBB Codes' after you open up the Add Reply window and then cut and paste the photo's URL from imagestation into the window WB provides.
Venchka
08-17-2005, 12:04 PM
Sorta like this...
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid182/p524c90cd91602f93090ee56c85e6d7b8/f2c893a7.jpg
Nice boat. All that with 20 sheets of plywood? That's what it says on the Hartley site. That's an impressive use of plywood. There are a lot of smaller boats that use more plywood.
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
[ 08-17-2005, 12:05 PM: Message edited by: Venchka ]
Wayne, I'm impressed...also some what shamed. I'm supposed to be a computer techie.
The boat actually consumed around 25 sheets of ply with very little wastage. It seems boats always consume more than is in the cutting list.
I made a couple of modifications to the original plan, I extended the doghouse aft 1'9" and I added a forehatch. Which still leaves me a cockpit around 6' long.
Venchka
08-17-2005, 11:25 PM
Hey, if I can do it, it's super simple. Here's a clue: you used the url to the album page itself. I got that address from your post, pasted, bingo! I'm in the album. I then got the url for the picture itself from the Properties of the actual picture. Pasted that in the image window and Bob's your uncle! We can see the boat.
25 sheets with extra cabin is still very good for a 24' boat. I assume the other Hartley's are similar. Interesting boats for sure.
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid182/p524c90cd91602f93090ee56c85e6d7b8/f2c893a7.jpg
[ 08-18-2005, 10:48 PM: Message edited by: WX ]
Venchka
08-18-2005, 10:41 AM
Close. No cigar, Grasshopper. :D Now go to the Imagestation page with the 640x480 image and do the same thing. Old timers like myself can't see much in that wee postage stamp picture. ;)
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
Now delete '.thumb' off the end of the url. You don't even have to go back to imagestation. Just edit your post.
[ 08-18-2005, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: JimD ]
WX
Judging by the angle of the baot in the photo, are you building that on the slopes of Mt Warning?
Do you have any of the Hartley boat building books?
JimJ, i was in the process of moving it out of the shed I built it in...for some reason I can't remember.
I have 2 books:
The Hartley's Guide to Boat Building (A Boat Builder tells how) and the second book which has lost so I it's cover so I don't know it's title but it deals more with yacht construction.
WX, I have had a look at the Hartley books but did not read about the 24 as I was only interested in the TS18. Does the book give any info on the ballast for your boat. I know for the 18 it talks about "3 to 5 cwt" of ballast either side of the C/B case. That is 336 to 560 lbs of ballast plus the steel centreboard. I don't know of any boats in our association that has that amount of ballast. One of the 21s has 150kg of lead just fwd of the compression post which certainly improved the stiffness of that boat.
I still have a while before my boat will be back in the water. Hopefully by the year's end.
Have a visit to our site at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bpwales/
We will have a TS18 at the Brisbane Boat Show 31 Aug til 4 Sept. Drop by if you are around Brisbane then.
Jim
JimJ, ballast and keel info already given above in an above post
JimJ I went for a day sail some years back with the hartley 16s around Macleay and Lamb Islands. I had a great time but didn't get near the tiller...the owner considered me to be ballast only :(
At times I have wished I had built an 18 instead, would have been on the water a lot sooner.
I travel to Brisbane once a month to deliver bamboo to a couple of outlets, I will keep it in mind.
Some more info:
Timber sawn frames, keelsons, deck beams etc Flooded Gum (Eucatyptus Grandis), Rose Gum in Qld, epoxy saturated in Epiglass Evedure.
Without the Evedure the rot would have been far more severe.
Plywood is 10mm marine grade Hoop Pine
Fastenings are silicon bronze, stainless steel or copper.
Glues used are Epiglass Epiglue and System Three epoxy resin. The cockpit area was glued with resorcinol and that is the only area to suffer rot.
I bought a Ryobi beltsander for $54 with 2 years warranty yesterday and it's a beauty...I mean how could you go wrong at that price.
I've taken some photos and will post some tomorrow.
...I mean how could you go wrong at that price.Let me count the ways :D But seriously, I have one of their cheapo table saws and have gotten years of faithful service out of it. All the same it ain't no porter cable. Wear your ear baffles. Cheap and loud seem to go together.
And glad to see you're back in the saddle and working on that boat. That's a lot of boat. Ought to be able to do some quite serious cruising in her.
A few photos
Portside looking aft (Galley area)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid183/p7742880e26f668b260a288acb3ce3d01/f2b350c5.jpg
Cockpit repairs
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid183/p7678542c48e355d3e9193df810af2f36/f2b350be.jpg
Looking fo'ard to v-berth, settee berths port and starboard.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid183/p73978ac8a633739704b24c8e9440615d/f2b34ed9.jpg
[ 08-22-2005, 08:29 PM: Message edited by: WX ]
Well...that's better :D
[ 08-22-2005, 08:30 PM: Message edited by: WX ]
I copied Norm's instructions, that's what I use, unfortunately I seem to have lost his original format. I'll go in and put some paragraphs.
NormMessinger . Member # 1207 posted 11-29-2002 04:56 PM Instructions for posting picturesPhoto to be posted must be on the web and in a site that allows cross posting.
Many Forum users use www.imagestation.com (http://www.imagestation.com) .
This is a free site which seems to have unlimited storage, large picture size, and unlimited albums.
Upload your pictures to ImageStation and create your albums or leave the pics in the in box as you wish.
Pictures in ImageStation are displayed in three sizes: thumbnail, display and original. Left click on the thumbnail brings up the display photo, about 640 bits X 400 or so.
A left click on the display photo brings up the photo in the original size you uploaded.
Forget this one, except in rare cases which I cannot explain it cannot be cross linked.
Select the picture you want to share in The Forum, thumbnail or display.
Left click on the thumbnail to show the display version.
Right click on the picture. Left click "Properties".
Highlight the Address [URL] and copy it.
Now go to The Forum and prepare your new message.
Write what you want as a preamble to your picture, then:Below the message area is a button, "IMAGE". Left click it.
Paste the URL you copied above into the block displayed.
Note that the block contains http already highlighted. Just paste without doing any thing else so you don't get http twice.
Add anything else you wish to add after the picture is displayed.Click on the "Display Message" button to confirm that what you want us to see will appear, then close the window.Click the "Add Reply" button and standby for responses.
--Norm Posts: 10013 | From: Omaha, Nebraska, USA, Terra , Sol, Milky Way.... | IP: Logged
Thanks Norm
[ 08-22-2005, 07:46 AM: Message edited by: Hwyl ]
Thanks Hwyl, I'll have a go at it tomorrow, it's late and my eyes are giving out.
Venchka
08-22-2005, 10:50 AM
Ok, I was going to fix it. Better if you give it a go.
There will be a test on Friday! :D
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
David123
08-22-2005, 08:47 PM
Clark Craft still sells the Hartley Designs
http://www.clarkcraft.com/cgi-local/shop.pl?type=item&categ=019&item=943116130&cart_id=2d4aaf55baab66df4c6b1b06ad03 f06b
Unfortunately, their print catalog page gives no more info than the link above, but an e-mail to their customer service might get you the info you need.
Dave
[ 08-22-2005, 08:49 PM: Message edited by: David123 ]
Venchka
08-22-2005, 11:34 PM
Might as well buy the plans from Hartley. Hartley sells study packages. The complete plans prices are so cheap, it seems feasible to just buy the full plans set.
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
[ 08-22-2005, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: Venchka ]
Well the full plan set contains all the full size patterns, which makes the whole process a lot easier.
I don't know about the US but timber particularly clear grained 7 metre plus 300mm x 25mm is not cheap or easy to find....depends how badly one wishes to build a boat ;)
Venchka
08-23-2005, 12:12 PM
Like materials for any boat, it depends where you are. Shipping distance and price adds up in a hurry. A fellow could be across the street from lovely, clear doug-fir lumber in mile long pieces and days away from decent plywood. Or the reverse. A lucky few have access to all the materials within a reasonable distance.
I have seen the sample plans for the Hartley TS 18. I was very impressed by all the details for the rigging and hardware. Are the TS 24 plans similar? Compared to several plans sources I am familiar with, the Hartley plans might as well be free.
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
The plans for the 24 are very detailed, including patterns for mast fittings, bronze rudder gudgeons and details for timber box section mast, boom and spinnaker pole.
I paid $128 aus for my plans back around 85 and if anything the price seems to have come down.
WX, looks like you've already done a huge amount of work. Get the spars, rigging, and sails together and what a nice big boat you will have. Make her pretty inside later.
JimD,I figure I've got at least a year possibly two before she hits the water and my partner is happy to do the mundane such as sanding and painting. I have been told I have to finish the house first though before I totally focus on the boat. smile.gif
batory
08-24-2005, 06:49 PM
Why does everyone insist on using Imagestation?
If you use Photobucket each picture is set up with three ways to send your pictures where you want.
None of the complicated instructions required.
Venchka
08-25-2005, 12:02 AM
No one insists on using Imagestation. Thanks for the Photobucket tip. I signed up and will check it out tomorrow.
However, the image linking instructions that Norm posted way back when work for any image you find anywhere on the internet.
Wayne
In the Swamp. :D
I think I have it twigged.
place url here
PeterSibley
08-25-2005, 07:41 AM
:D :D
Hey P Sib, it worked eh?
:D
I have now reached the stage where I'm now nailing and gluing new bits on rather than ripping rotten bits off...it felt good today.
WX, I don't suppose you could post a photo of the boat in profile? I'd like to see how that cabin looks. Glad you're making progress
[ 08-28-2005, 01:50 PM: Message edited by: JimD ]
JimD I'll see if I can get a good one today and post it tonight for you. The doghouse looks a bit blocky to me but I plan to ease it a bit with a bit of varnished trim along the top edge of the cabin side.
There are a few bits I would do differently now but I'm not sure if I want to redo them now, I think I would just like to see her on the water.
Here you go, sorry about all the clutter in the foreground...I've a bit of a storage problem at the moment. I have now replaced all the damaged cockpit sole framing. Nice to smell epoxy instead of mold. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid184/p435463c8f07fe2a9acd10e8b0cc7c142/f297b0b1.jpg
The cabin height doesn't look too awfully bad considering there's standing headroom in there and it's not a particularly deep hull. You'll be able to do some very comfortable passage making.
alienzdive
09-12-2005, 12:53 AM
Hartleys are very good boats, I have one now and have had others in the past. I have been told that all Hartleys can be built with another set of plans scaled up by 10% by the designer, more ballast etc. I wonder if there are any 24 footers scaled up to 27 foot?
Stiletto
09-12-2005, 02:47 AM
A friend of mine had a 28 footer that looked remarkably similar to the 26 footer that was the original topic of this thread. I think it was a separate design though. The same friend loaned me a Hartley book he had that showed how to lengthen most of the designs by up to 10% by simply increasing the frame spacings.
Alienz, what Hartley do you have?
regarding the height of the cabin, I was very concerned that it would look too blocky or to quote the expression "like a block of flats".
I actually reduced the height by an inch which just gives me standing headroom under the doghouse beams.
Work is progressing slowly and I am now very close to gluing and nailing the cockpit sole back down.
The grabrails are Australian Teak ( Findersia australis) but they have cracked over the years (neglect) so I will replace them with hardwood, most likely Bloodwood or Red Stringybark. I'm also thinking of altering the cockpit coamings...maybe curve them into the aft bulkhead of the doghouse...try and take the sharpness out of it.
The 28ft version is called a Stardrift, I would have preferred it but I would of had to at least double the budget.
[ 09-12-2005, 07:43 AM: Message edited by: WX ]
WX
I have just finished building cockpit comings for Sea Lark. I have extended them back from the aft cabin bulkhead and continued the curve of the cabin sides
Framing for port coaming
Photo (http://www.users.bigpond.com/aeroservice/Port_Cockpit_Coaming_Framing.JPG)
I will post a photo of the completed coamings tonight.
Jim
[ 09-12-2005, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: JimJ ]
alienzdive
09-12-2005, 11:44 PM
I have a Hartley 30 stretched to 33 feet and LOA of 36 feet. Undergoing a very extensive renovation after sinking prior to my purchase.
I have had a few TS16 and a TS18, the 16s although being a large dinghy was a pack of fun.
Jim I look forward to seeing the finished look.
I had hoped to do a bit of work today but I was cutting a doorway from the upstairs bedroom to the new balcony yesterday and pinched my sciatic nerve. It's slowed me down a bit, I mean sciatica is something really old people get...I'm only 53 smile.gif
John B
09-13-2005, 04:15 AM
Is your boat in England or New Zild alienzdive?
WX
Sorry to hear about your mishap.
As promised not quite finished, but you will get the idea.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/aeroservice/BilgePump.JPG
Starboard coaming forward into where I have built the bilge pump.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/aeroservice/StbCoamingt.JPG
Starboard coaming forward with the cover in place over the bilge pump. The handle for this pump is removable. I can still operate the pump with the cover in place. i had to make the cover detachable to be able to service the pump.
http://www.users.bigpond.com/aeroservice/PortCoamingInside.JPG
Cockpit side of port coaming
http://www.users.bigpond.com/aeroservice/PortCoamingOutside.JPG
Port coaming. I have kept the same curve on the coaming as the cabin side and the same slope aft on the top as the cabin top has forward. I have not finished the aft end of the coaming.
The ply is 6mm hoop and the timber on top is old silky oak door frames reclaimed from buildings demolished when what is now Southbank was cleared to make way for Expo 88.
Stiletto
09-13-2005, 05:48 PM
JimJ are you going to cover those cutouts?
Stiletto
I was not intending to cover them. Just use them as cave lockers. I still have the cutouts as I cut them using a template and router with a 1/16 bit.
I still have install some drains to allow water to drain out from the cockpit seats.
The coamings in the photos above are not yet glued in place, just located in position for the photos.
Jim, it looks good. I have done something similar but sloping aft and narrower...I like yours more.
The bilge pump looks nicely tucked away there. I also put cave lockers in my coamings but being only about 2" deep I'm not sure what exactly I planned to store in them :confused: ...probably the sheet winch handle.
Stiletto
09-13-2005, 08:42 PM
Looking good Jim, the reason I asked is that i have similar cutouts on my tri and find they catch rainwater. Probably not such a problem with a trailer boat, but can be a nuisance and a potential longer term problem on a moored vessel, even though I have epoxied everything.
I was hoping you had an elegant solution to covering them up. ;)
Stilleto I cut small drainage holes in mine, which do work but they need to be around an inch by half I reckon. I'm seriously thinking of ripping my coamings off and starting again with them...wider with a bit of sheer to them. It will be a hassle but I really don't like the way they look now.
alienzdive
09-14-2005, 09:14 PM
http://images5.theimagehosting.com/seil3.jpg (http://www.theimagehosting.com)
It is in England John B, this pic was taken in France by a passenger prior to my purchase. The restoration has taken nearly a year so far.
Cleaned, sanded and epoxied the v-berth and saloon areas with Botecote mixed with 25% TPA. Still needs another coat....more sanding.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/bilges_epoxied.jpg
Duncan Gibbs
11-18-2007, 08:56 AM
Nice to see your work Gary!
Is the Yanmar (I think) still cranking?
Hi Duncan, the Yanmar is sitting and waiting it's turn for some more work on it. There are a few stripped threads to fix, some painting etc. I've also had to get an engine mount made up, so once I have that I can make up a template of the engine mounting boltholes so I can get the engine beds correctly positioned. At the moment I'm concentrating on getting the inside all ready to continue with the fitout. So lots of sanding and epoxying going on.
Here's a photo on how she's progressing.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/RedwingSside.jpg
Working on the engine beds. I need to modify them a bit to take flexible engine mounts.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/00004_G.jpg
Nice. Really starting to look like a boat :) Have you picked out a hull colour?
Yeah JimD, she will be dark blue.
I went back and read the whole thread.......We've given ourselve 1 year to launch.....who am I trying to fool. At least another year in it yet...unless I win about $5,000 some how:D
Should look a bit like this, just add 1' 9" to the doghouse.
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/colourscheme.jpg
I'll be very interested in seeing that sail happen.
You and me both mate:D
It will happen.
Have you thought about a gurney flap?
Cambered panels add shape to the body of the sail and the leech is extended into a gurney flap. Although this looks as though it would do more harm to the aerodynamics than good, the gurney flap makes a considerable improvement. Without it the sail is slower and not as close winded (I tried it).
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/howto/junkrig/index.htm
Apparently they are not needed on cambered sails. I take my lead from the work of Arne Kverneland in the field of cambered sails. he has been using junk rigs since 1990 and has taken the cambered junk rig from development to a go anywhere sail (to use his words).
http://bambooman.gallery.netspace.net.au/albums/album01/20050906_021_Johanna_1024_dots.jpg
Apparently they are not needed on cambered sails.
The guy I quoted above says quite the contrary and he says he's personally tried it both ways.
JimD, he is approaching the sail construction from a slightly different angle. I have seen this article before.
If you are seriously interested in junk rigs I suggest you join the junk rig forum.
It was the best thing I did.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/junkrig/
JimD, he is approaching the sail construction from a slightly different angle. I have seen this article before.
If you are seriously interested in junk rigs I suggest you join the junk rig forum.
It was the best thing I did.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/junkrig/
Thanks for the link. I just joined. See you there.
WX - wonder what happens if the camber is cut in the middle of the panel instead of at the battens.
JimD, Arne uses stiff battens ( aluminium tube to be exact), he has experimented with flexible battens in the past but wasn't happy with them from what I can gather.
The wrinkles are caused...I would say.... for a couple of reasons, the sail is not hauled taunt along the battens because of the camber. The batten pockets follow the camber. Secondly Arne uses a coated rip stop nylon (220 grams to the metre) for his sails which tends to be much softer than Dacron.
Given that he gets better windward performance from his sails without losing any of the simplicity of the rig management than other variation of the rig makes a few wrinkles worth it in my book.
His first junk sail by the way was a standard flat Hasler/McLeod design made in England, what you see in the photos is the result of over 15 years of experimentation and design. I think he is on the right track, others may prefer Colvin or Reddish. It's matter of what personally feels right.
Given that I have never set foot on a junk rigged boat, let alone sailed one means I have to rely on the experience and documentation of others. So we will have to wait a little while before I can give you an opinion based on experience, :D
PS I think Johanna looks awesome under sail.
JImD you changed your text:D
Umm....camber in the middle of the panel, interesting question.
You should ask him. Your first post:D
JImD you changed your text:D
Umm....camber in the middle of the panel, interesting question.
Ya - wut i ferst sed sorta didn't make sense after I thought about it.
...
The wrinkles are caused...I would say.... for a couple of reasons, the sail is not hauled taunt along the battens because of the camber...
I would think that is it. Because of the camber the sail is longer at the battens so ends up getting scrunched up (pardon my use of such technically arcane jargon) at the batten like a curtain on a curtain rod.
it made sense, I noticed the wrinkles as well and they do detract slightly. But hey, perfection is a hard master and as I tell my partner Kerry...I don't do perfection.
You should ask him. Your first post:D
I think you should ask so I don't have to endure all the 'stupid newbie' remarks.
Chicken :D
OK
Cluck, cluck, cluck, thanks, cluck, cluck.
Done Is that forum very busy? We're sort of used to instantaneous responses here at WB. It's been five minutes.
JimD, here's Arne's response:
Hi Gary.
During last Junk rig rally in Stavanger in 2006, one of the visitors
said he liked the baggy panels of the Stavanger junks so well that
when returning to Denmark, he would modify his flat junk sail about
the way you describe: He would just rip each batten panel from luff
to leech and fit a lens- or fish-shaped piece of canvas (..in
contrasting colours...). I think that was a good and cost-effective
idea, and I just reminded him of fitting a strong boltrope around
the sail, since all the load would move out to luff and leech.
When starting from scratch however, I think my own way of making a
cambered sail is much quicker and will produce a just( ..or
almost...) as safe, durable, fast and cheap sail as any other method
I have seen so far.
Arne
It's reasonably busy but there is the time zone lag to take into account. It's no where near as big as WB...no Bilge section that is for sure:D
PeterSibley
01-24-2008, 02:25 AM
G'day Gary , reading with interest !:)
hi Peter, glad you are enjoying it.
I bit the bullet today and did the cutout in the companion way bulkhead to take the back end of the engine. I'm going to put a small raised access hatch in so I can get at the coupling. Each side of the hatch will be a rope box/storage locker, the starboard one will take the tail from the halyard. I haven't done the sums but I think when the sail is raised there will be somewhere between 14 and 21 metres of halyard rope to put somewhere...it will be a 4 part purchase.
I think fitting the engine and prop shaft will be the biggest challenge for me.
JimD, here's Arne's response:...
That is good to know. I would think that if starting from scratch it might be easier the newly proposed way. You'd still be sewing in the same number of cambers yet the sail would be flat at the battens, making fitting the battens easier. Think I'll take a shot at it for the dinghy sail and see how it goes.
let me know how you go with it. I'll want photos of course :D
let me know how you go with it. I'll want photos of course :D
Photos of course. It'll be for one of these Paul Fisher prams which I am presently stitching up in the garage:
http://www.selway-fisher.com/Simp8p1.jpg
I have a Bolger Cartopper with a Leg O mutton rig, I am planning to make a junk rig for it to get me used to the rig.
Mine won't be Hasler style. They are practical but I don't find them very attractive. I will draw up a coupe fan shapes.
Where as I quite like the shape of the Hasler rig, particulary as shown on Badger and Ron Glas (cover of PJR) in Twin mast config. I have a picture of Johanna as wallpaper, I think she looks very impressive under full sail.
I was originally going to use the Fenix sail design but it has problems with falling behind the mast during reefing and furling...very nice fan shape though.
I recall even Blondie Hasler didn't like the look of it much but the main thing is to like the look of your own boat. I like it much better when the top triangle is devided into three panels and not just two.
I like it much better when the top triangle is devided into three panels and not just two.
Reply With Quote
Like mine will be.
I like it much better when the top triangle is devided into three panels and not just two.
Reply With Quote
Like mine will be.
Exactly ;)
vBulletin® v3.8.1, Copyright ©2000-2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.