View Full Version : Building Half Hull Models
MattG
11-19-2001, 01:59 PM
I am interested in building a half hull model. I have a lines plan that I am going to work from.
I have built a half hull model previously by creating transverse frames on a strongback and then strip planking the frames, with a little success. Not the best looking hull, but not too bad either, especially for my first attempt.
I have seen info on the lift method. What method of others tried and found easy for a somewhat beginner? I don't have access to a lot of tools, just basic hand wood working and modeling stuff.
Thanks in advance,
MattG
Dave Thibodeau
11-19-2001, 02:19 PM
The Maine Maritime Museum published the best book I've seen on half hull model construction. I believe it is around $10 if you can find a copy
Dave Thibodeau
rbgarr
11-19-2001, 07:41 PM
Matt-
Welcome to the WB Forum.
Do a search in the WB Online Index for halfmodels or Sonny Hodgdon. His methods are very good and the article is thorough. I don't care for the MMM's booklet, and I used to work there. The method is pretty awkward, IMO.
[This message has been edited by rbgarr (edited 11-19-2001).]
Alisa
11-20-2001, 10:39 AM
Matt,
A fairly easy method is as follows:
Choose material for each waterline plane. Alternate layers of cedar & spruce look nice. Allow more thickness for the sheer & baseline planks. IE. 1" sheer, 1/4" for each waterline & 1/2" for the baseline (allows for carving out the keel). Allow enough length for size of half-model you are making (ie, 1" = 1'). Ensure that the planks are wide enough to allow for the max beam from the half-breadth table.
Clamp all together in order & label waterlines & layout station spacing. Measure sheer hts up from baseline & cut line for sheer in profile. Re-mark station lines on top. Draw line for half-breadth of sheer in plan. Remove clamps in order to layout & draw (use a small batten to get a fair line) the half-breadths for each waterline.
Put back together & draw the lines for the stem profile & the transom.
Saw out the lines on each plank on the bandsaw. Stack pieces in order with station lines in line & glue-up. Whittle & gouge away excess and fair lines to produce your half-model.
Hope this makes sense????
Have fun,
Alisa
Bill Berrisford
11-20-2001, 11:42 PM
Matt- halfmodelling can become a passion. I've made almost a hundred of 'em and I have lines plans of more than 300 yachts in my files- enough to keep me busy 'til I croak.
I don't spend much time drafting. I make distortion-free copies of the lines plan to scale. I cut out the waterline profile for the largest lift and with the centerline of my cutout at the joined edge of my lift stock (sugar pine or basswood usually) I trace the outline with a sharp soft pencil, making a mark on the centerline edge at a station common to all lifts. I cut out the next smaller outline, trace it, and so on. When all lifts are cut and trimmed to the pencil line, I line up the common station as I glue the lifts together. I usually paint the bottom side of the lift just above the waterline so that the waterline on the finished model shows up as a fine black line. I use a number of special tools including a device to hold the model in a vice simular to the one Herreshoff used and a box device that allows me to cut the sheerline (traced on the back) on a bandsaw.
My three favorites are the Satanita, an extraordilarily graceful British yacht from the turn of the last century; the Moses H. Grinell, arguably the America's prototype designed by George Steers in 1850; and a Seconett 23 that Joel White was gratious enough to accept.
The pieces by Sonny Hodgdon (WB #33) and Eric Dow (WB #54) are well worth your time.
-Bill
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