Switching to stitch and glue

[Erik le Rouge]

Hi there,
I was wondering if it was possible to switch from plywood on frame and jig, to stitch and glue building for a 15 feet daysailer (flat bottom), as I know that technique better...

[Thorne]

A lot will depend on the design -- can you give us more information, including the name of the plans, whether or not you have already purchased them and/or started building, etc.

[Lewisboats]

Originally posted by Thorne:
A lot will depend on the design -- can you give us more information, including the name of the plans, whether or not you have already purchased them and/or started building, etc.I agree... If the plans don't define the shape of the panels exactly (within 1/8" or less) or you have to fair the panels after they are on the jig then I don't think it will be an easy switch. If the panels are fully developed without the need of the jig then you should be able to stitch it up without too many problems. A key element of Stitch and Glue is that the panels define the shape of the boat because the boat was designed around the developablility of the panels that define the shape of the boat. If you followed that...you're pretty darn good! In other words...If a boat's panels are developable then it can be Stitch and Glued because the shape of the panels, when stitched together, will recreate the shape of the designed hull. You can do things to plywood by attaching it to frames, molds and stringers that you can't do by stitching the edges together, so if the plans don't give you some slightly funky shapes to cut your plywood to, then you will have quite a time adapting your design to stitch and glue. Have you tried to recreate the design in something like Hulls or Carene or FREE!Ship?

Steve

[Lewisboats]

As an aside...where in Que are you? I was raised in Montreal (18 years).

Steve

[Erik le Rouge]

I am at Mont Saint-Hilaire and the plans are for Warren Jordan's Footloose

[Lewisboats]

Googling the boat, then (happening to have on hand)checking out the book 'Good Skiffs' which includes the study plans and building method, it seems you are in for a NON-stitch and glue build. The panels are arrived at AFTER assembling the ladder frame, from which you measure and create the panels. This is not to say that similar panels cannot be created with some work. However, developing the panels will not negate the requirement of some or all of the original framing needing to go into the boat. It will simply mean adding the framing to the hull instead of adding the hull to the framing. I could come up with a close approximation of the panels if you wish but I think you should seriously consider simply expanding your knowledge base and building the boat as designed.

Steve

[Lewisboats]

Mont Saint-Hilaire?

What direction from Notre Dame de Grace or Downtown MTL and how far?? Not familiar with Mont Saint-Hilaire. Can't even find it on available maps! Sorry!!

Steve

[Frank E. Price]

Sounds like you would be passing up a perfect opportunity to get some familiarity with traditional timber building. A flat bottomed 15-footer is about as easy as it gets. Having built a couple of S&G boats and most recently a planked 18' sharpie, I have to say the old way is much quicker, easier and cheaper.

Frank

[JimD]

Build it with frames, Erik. It's easy. Maybe even easier. And more enjoyable. And less hassle than epoxy fillets. Looks better, too. Frames are the way to go. :cool:

[batory]

Lewisboats
try Google Maps as in:

http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=45.585212,-73.171692&spn=0.426382,0.878014&hl=en

Mont Ste. Hilaire is on the South Shore near the Richelieu river and Ste. Jean.

[Lewisboats]

AHA! got it! I used to live not too far from there just south west of Candiac.

Steve

[Lewisboats]

Originally posted by Frank E. Price:
Sounds like you would be passing up a perfect opportunity to get some familiarity with traditional timber building. A flat bottomed 15-footer is about as easy as it gets. Having built a couple of S&G boats and most recently a planked 18' sharpie, I have to say the old way is much quicker, easier and cheaper.

FrankWell, it isn't really timber planked...the panels are plywood but taken off the framing rather than shaped beforehand like stitch and glue.

Steve

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

I've got the plans for a traditional 14' x 48" rowboat with cross planked bottom. The whole thing is made from dimensional lumber and nails and has very little framing. The design weight is 200 lb.
A similar rowboat done in S&G, the FL14, has a design weight of 110 lb. And the FL14 is 54" wide. Even if a completed FL14 came in at 140 lb. it would still have a huge weight advantage.
I've uncovered plans for two small sailing dories that could readily be converted to S&G with similar benefits.
Charlie