Movable Rowlocks

[Neil H B]

This question has been prompted by the recent thread on Down and Dirty Tenders, and specifically refers to those tenders that have fore n' aft twarts.

OK, I understand that the benefit of a longitudinal thwart is that you can easily adjust the position of the rower to account for the weight of "other cargo", but what about then adjusting the position of the rowlocks to fit with where the rower now sits?

A Google search on movable rowlocks or oarlocks only came up with the Urbanna Rocket project, where the rowlocks are clamped to the gunwale depending upon where the rower sits.

Anyone got any suggestions on adjustable rowlocks that would suit a small dinghy or tender?

[Ian McColgin]

The simplest oar lock is just a bushed hole in the gunnel for the post under the horns (I do not hold with round closed top oar locks or pinned oar locks) to stick through.

You can easily have say 3 such holes maybe a foot apart and just one set of actual locks, secured on a keeper string long enough to reach all holes. I've found that generally there's a need for only two rowing stations in a small dink but the added flex of three could pay off if you ever carry someone really heavy.

Have the furthest aft set of holes for comfortable rowing when the boat has only yourself and perhaps a six pack.

By the way, the foreandaft seat is nice but I've come to love using a "Pelican" waterproof box to sit on. It settles down nicely, I like having a waterproof case anyway, it's got unlimited flexability, and having the bottom of the dink open comes in handy now and then.

G'luck

[Don Kurylko]

...a "Pelican" waterproof box - wazzat Ian?

[Bruce Hooke]

Pelican is a brand name. They make heavy duty, waterproof cases in a variety of sizes. Google "Pelican Case" and you will get lots of information...

[Neil H B]

Ian,

Thanks for the tips. Upon reflection, I guess your implication - that small tenders or dinghys don't require all that many alternative rowing positions - is correct.

Before I looked up what a Pelican waterproof box really was, I thought that you were talking about chilly bins (or as the Aussies would have it Eskys), some of which can be waterproof. Irrespective, I think it a great idea and one that I'll have to think further about.

Neil

[Ian McColgin]

You will need conviently located slats or something as a foot rest. On a flatish bottom dink, these work in nicely at the corner of the bottom and garboard or side so you don't need anything big and clunky.

I've found that with a dink you don't really power up as you might with a wherry or whitehall or laden dory, so you don't need much more than a place to land a bit of your heel. You'll not really use the foot brace much except on windy days or landing through small surf for that nice afternoon on a beach.

[Ray Frechette Jr]

Originally posted by Neil H B:
Ian,

Thanks for the tips. Upon reflection, I guess your implication - that small tenders or dinghys don't require all that many alternative rowing positions - is correct.

NeilWell from my perspective on a small dinghy under 10 feet, a few row lock sockets is pretty much a necessity, One for when single handing it, and a second definitely needed when towing one passenger aft, unless you really laod up the forward end with stores.

[Ian McColgin]

I think we are agreed that at least two and perhaps three sets are a good thing.

For my own dink, it works well to have the aft most just right for me alone, and the fore most just right for the rather light Mary Ellen to row with my 225# in the stern, and then a third set just between.

Using the third adjustment of the Pelican box/seat, I can pretty much balance anything.

[Steve Lansdowne]

An article by Ian Nicholson in the current Water Craft (#56)suggests 2-3 oarlock holes perhaps 3" apart from one another, and also a fore and aft seat running in the stem to stern direction, and also floor racks with recesses for foot stretchers as a way of accommodating rowers of various sizes.

[Figment]

by the way, a "rowlock" is a brick turned crosswise. :D