Marine diesel winterizing

[StoneCat]

I have a small 8 HP 4-stroke, single cylinder, raw water cooling,ARONA diesel inboard.
Anybody got tips / advice on winterizing ?

Mike

[Norm Bernstein]

It should be quite easy. You'll want to get a 2 galon bucket, and fill it with a non-toxic antifreeze designed for engine protection applications... available at most marine stores (it's the red stuff, but it needs to specificaly say that it is rated for engine winterization applications... not just the ordinary non-toxic stuff you'd winterize a water tank with).

Disconnect the cooling water intake hose from the seacock, and stick it in the bucket. Light up the engine, wait until it empties the bucket, and shut it down... that's about it!

Some folks like to 'fog' their engines by spraying a light oil into the air intake while it's running... I've never found it necessary.

[StoneCat]

Thanks Norm, that's the only thing I've done so far. I was curious about whether there were any special considerations for diesel fuel/components/tank etc. This is my first diesel.

[Norm Bernstein]

Well, my answer might not have been complete. As part of the winterization process, I customarily change all filters (fuel and oil, including the water separator filter) as well as the engine oil... and I fill the fuel tank to the very top, adding a diesel stabilizer additive. Filling the tank minimizes condensation, and is a very good thing to do before a winter layout.

I've been doing it this way for nearly 20 years now, and my engine never fails to start immediately in the spring.

[duck builder]

If you have an internal water strainer for your raw water intake, make sure the raw water seacock is open to let that drain and then be sure there's no water in the the strainer housing that could freeze and crack the housing over the winter.

Without being obvious, be sure to take your batteries off too.

[Bob Adams]

DO NOT FOG A DIESEL ENGINE! The fogging oil will ignite in the engine and could cause a "runaway" condition. It's also a good idea to change the oil and filter before storage, and add a stabilizer to the fuel.

[jboat]

Why not just take the top off the strainer, close the seacock and pour the antifreeze into the strainer? Put the top back on and your whole system is full. Thats how I do it.
Fuel stabilizer, anti-growth additive and a full to the brim tank are essential to keeping the fuel system clean and clear. Change all the filters, change the oil, loosen the belts.
I always stuff a rage into the exhaust port in the transom to keep stuff from getting in as well.

[rrowlands]

In addition to the coolant and fuel system proceedures previously described my 1963 MD2 has enjoyed a steady diet of Marvel Mystery Oil. I break the fuel line from the tank and have it draw directly from the can of Marvel Mystery Oil until I'm sure the engine has burned it for about 10 minutes. I've never had a Spring starting problem in the 20 years I've followed this ritual.

[gert]

What are these small marine diesels worth?

[westinghouse]

A rebuilt 2gm Yanmar goes for $5000 around here (Vancouver Island).

As for fogging, doesn't turning the hand crank a couple of times when the engine's cold do it?

[ 12-03-2004, 01:30 PM: Message edited by: westinghouse ]