Thinners / Solvents

[Alan Peck]

Does anyone know how to determine which thinners from one manufactuerer are really the same as thinners from another manufacturer? They all have different names and I can't really tell what's in them.

For example I just bought some Z-Spar filler/stain. It calls for using Z-Spar T-10 thinner. I have various kinds of Interlux thinners and I hate to spend 20 bucks for a quart of the Z-Spar thinner. Especially when I only need about 4 ounces.

[Alan Peck]

Does anyone know how to determine which thinners from one manufactuerer are really the same as thinners from another manufacturer? They all have different names and I can't really tell what's in them.

For example I just bought some Z-Spar filler/stain. It calls for using Z-Spar T-10 thinner. I have various kinds of Interlux thinners and I hate to spend 20 bucks for a quart of the Z-Spar thinner. Especially when I only need about 4 ounces.

[Alan Peck]

Does anyone know how to determine which thinners from one manufactuerer are really the same as thinners from another manufacturer? They all have different names and I can't really tell what's in them.

For example I just bought some Z-Spar filler/stain. It calls for using Z-Spar T-10 thinner. I have various kinds of Interlux thinners and I hate to spend 20 bucks for a quart of the Z-Spar thinner. Especially when I only need about 4 ounces.

[JimConlin]

I think T-10 the same as Interlux 333, a slow-evaporating mineral spirit.
T-8 is naphtha with a little xylene.

Google for the MSDS

[JimConlin]

I think T-10 the same as Interlux 333, a slow-evaporating mineral spirit.
T-8 is naphtha with a little xylene.

Google for the MSDS

[JimConlin]

I think T-10 the same as Interlux 333, a slow-evaporating mineral spirit.
T-8 is naphtha with a little xylene.

Google for the MSDS

[Billy Bones]

I read (here, I think) and have adopted the trick of using vastly cheaper Coleman fuel for all applications where 333 is called for, except for actual thinning where the solvent will affect the work. IE brush cleaning and spot removal. This makes the dear stuff go A LOT farther.

Billy the Scottish

[Billy Bones]

I read (here, I think) and have adopted the trick of using vastly cheaper Coleman fuel for all applications where 333 is called for, except for actual thinning where the solvent will affect the work. IE brush cleaning and spot removal. This makes the dear stuff go A LOT farther.

Billy the Scottish

[Billy Bones]

I read (here, I think) and have adopted the trick of using vastly cheaper Coleman fuel for all applications where 333 is called for, except for actual thinning where the solvent will affect the work. IE brush cleaning and spot removal. This makes the dear stuff go A LOT farther.

Billy the Scottish

[Bob Cleek]

Well, I'm probably going to walk into a propeller here, but... those Interlux and Z Spar thinners are a bunch of BS. Now, I'm not saying they aren't good, but they are hugely overpriced. They are simply well refined solvents that dry at varying rates. If you are doing production work in a yard and the bottom line depends on how many hulls you can turn around a month, no matter the weather, and the customer is paying the bill, they are useful. You can get boats to dry at maximum speed and relaunch or proceed to another job. However, any good thinner, balanced with a good brushing fluid, like Penetrol, will do just as well if you know how to mix your paint in the first place. I can't imagine anyone would ever use these thinners for cleaning brushes! WAY to expensive for that! Now, this opinion applies only to alkyd paint. If you are getting into epoxies and polyurethanes you'd better stick with their designated thinners.

[ 01-29-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: Bob Cleek ]

[Bob Cleek]

Well, I'm probably going to walk into a propeller here, but... those Interlux and Z Spar thinners are a bunch of BS. Now, I'm not saying they aren't good, but they are hugely overpriced. They are simply well refined solvents that dry at varying rates. If you are doing production work in a yard and the bottom line depends on how many hulls you can turn around a month, no matter the weather, and the customer is paying the bill, they are useful. You can get boats to dry at maximum speed and relaunch or proceed to another job. However, any good thinner, balanced with a good brushing fluid, like Penetrol, will do just as well if you know how to mix your paint in the first place. I can't imagine anyone would ever use these thinners for cleaning brushes! WAY to expensive for that! Now, this opinion applies only to alkyd paint. If you are getting into epoxies and polyurethanes you'd better stick with their designated thinners.

[ 01-29-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: Bob Cleek ]

[Bob Cleek]

Well, I'm probably going to walk into a propeller here, but... those Interlux and Z Spar thinners are a bunch of BS. Now, I'm not saying they aren't good, but they are hugely overpriced. They are simply well refined solvents that dry at varying rates. If you are doing production work in a yard and the bottom line depends on how many hulls you can turn around a month, no matter the weather, and the customer is paying the bill, they are useful. You can get boats to dry at maximum speed and relaunch or proceed to another job. However, any good thinner, balanced with a good brushing fluid, like Penetrol, will do just as well if you know how to mix your paint in the first place. I can't imagine anyone would ever use these thinners for cleaning brushes! WAY to expensive for that! Now, this opinion applies only to alkyd paint. If you are getting into epoxies and polyurethanes you'd better stick with their designated thinners.

[ 01-29-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: Bob Cleek ]

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the responses. I think I am learning something here.

I looked at the MSDS for the Interlux 333 brushing liquid. It looks like it is just 50% kerosene and 50% solvent naptha. I couldn't find the MSDS for Z*Spar t-10, but I suspect it is the same type. So, why does this stuff cost $14 to $20 a gallon?

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the responses. I think I am learning something here.

I looked at the MSDS for the Interlux 333 brushing liquid. It looks like it is just 50% kerosene and 50% solvent naptha. I couldn't find the MSDS for Z*Spar t-10, but I suspect it is the same type. So, why does this stuff cost $14 to $20 a gallon?

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the responses. I think I am learning something here.

I looked at the MSDS for the Interlux 333 brushing liquid. It looks like it is just 50% kerosene and 50% solvent naptha. I couldn't find the MSDS for Z*Spar t-10, but I suspect it is the same type. So, why does this stuff cost $14 to $20 a gallon?

[paladin]

It's the cans and advertising.....

[paladin]

It's the cans and advertising.....

[paladin]

It's the cans and advertising.....

[paul oman]

why pay that much?

for the same reason you're willing to pay $200 plus per gallon for a 2 part urethane (LPU) - $80 per gallon for a blushing epoxy - and about the same for 'penetrating' sealers that are 60 or 70% solvent.

Then again - how much are you spending to raise and educate your kids?

Guess you cannot put a price tag on some things like love and boats (on the other hand you can rent both!)

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

[paul oman]

why pay that much?

for the same reason you're willing to pay $200 plus per gallon for a 2 part urethane (LPU) - $80 per gallon for a blushing epoxy - and about the same for 'penetrating' sealers that are 60 or 70% solvent.

Then again - how much are you spending to raise and educate your kids?

Guess you cannot put a price tag on some things like love and boats (on the other hand you can rent both!)

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

[paul oman]

why pay that much?

for the same reason you're willing to pay $200 plus per gallon for a 2 part urethane (LPU) - $80 per gallon for a blushing epoxy - and about the same for 'penetrating' sealers that are 60 or 70% solvent.

Then again - how much are you spending to raise and educate your kids?

Guess you cannot put a price tag on some things like love and boats (on the other hand you can rent both!)

paul oman
progressive epoxy polymers
www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/marine.html)

[Alan Peck]

A minor correction to my post above. Its not $14 to $20 a gallon.

Its $14 to $20 a quart!

[Alan Peck]

A minor correction to my post above. Its not $14 to $20 a gallon.

Its $14 to $20 a quart!

[Alan Peck]

A minor correction to my post above. Its not $14 to $20 a gallon.

Its $14 to $20 a quart!

[JimConlin]

Another minor correction. $200/gal for LPU is the price that nobody pays. Real costs to anyone in the trade are a lot lower than that. Ask around.

[JimConlin]

Another minor correction. $200/gal for LPU is the price that nobody pays. Real costs to anyone in the trade are a lot lower than that. Ask around.

[JimConlin]

Another minor correction. $200/gal for LPU is the price that nobody pays. Real costs to anyone in the trade are a lot lower than that. Ask around.

[Frank Wentzel]

Jim

Nobody in the trade pays that price I'm sure, but us poor slobs who buy 1 or 2 quarts at a time to paint our babies are stuck with MSRP prices.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Jim

Nobody in the trade pays that price I'm sure, but us poor slobs who buy 1 or 2 quarts at a time to paint our babies are stuck with MSRP prices.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Jim

Nobody in the trade pays that price I'm sure, but us poor slobs who buy 1 or 2 quarts at a time to paint our babies are stuck with MSRP prices.

/// Frank ///

[Bruce Hooke]

Frank,

If you are buying your paint locally and paying MSRP you might want to check the prices at a place like Jamestown Distributors (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com) . Their prices, and the prices from similar operations, are generally well below list price, even with shipping added on.

- Bruce

[Bruce Hooke]

Frank,

If you are buying your paint locally and paying MSRP you might want to check the prices at a place like Jamestown Distributors (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com) . Their prices, and the prices from similar operations, are generally well below list price, even with shipping added on.

- Bruce

[Bruce Hooke]

Frank,

If you are buying your paint locally and paying MSRP you might want to check the prices at a place like Jamestown Distributors (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com) . Their prices, and the prices from similar operations, are generally well below list price, even with shipping added on.

- Bruce