View Full Version : Set-up my paint locker.
A recent painting project has convinced me that I need to be serious about painting gear. I've been using throw-away brushes and recycled plastic containers for years, and have no real stuff. I also have a few years of painting in front of me, including interior and exterior, domestic and marine.
What do I need? brushes, cleaners, thinners, rollers, sprayers. Good stuff, that will make it through a lot of use. I spent a while looking at brushes at Jamestown, and have no idea what the difference is, between a $30 brush from Epifanes and a $3 brush from China.
A recent painting project has convinced me that I need to be serious about painting gear. I've been using throw-away brushes and recycled plastic containers for years, and have no real stuff. I also have a few years of painting in front of me, including interior and exterior, domestic and marine.
What do I need? brushes, cleaners, thinners, rollers, sprayers. Good stuff, that will make it through a lot of use. I spent a while looking at brushes at Jamestown, and have no idea what the difference is, between a $30 brush from Epifanes and a $3 brush from China.
A recent painting project has convinced me that I need to be serious about painting gear. I've been using throw-away brushes and recycled plastic containers for years, and have no real stuff. I also have a few years of painting in front of me, including interior and exterior, domestic and marine.
What do I need? brushes, cleaners, thinners, rollers, sprayers. Good stuff, that will make it through a lot of use. I spent a while looking at brushes at Jamestown, and have no idea what the difference is, between a $30 brush from Epifanes and a $3 brush from China.
Mike Vogdes
01-31-2005, 01:18 PM
One of the best purchases I ever made reguarding painting gear would be my brush spinner, bought it 10 years ago from the woodenboat catalog and use it all the time. I have a dedicated five gallon bucket with a 4" hole cut in the lid for spinning brushes dry after a thinner bath.
Mike Vogdes
01-31-2005, 01:18 PM
One of the best purchases I ever made reguarding painting gear would be my brush spinner, bought it 10 years ago from the woodenboat catalog and use it all the time. I have a dedicated five gallon bucket with a 4" hole cut in the lid for spinning brushes dry after a thinner bath.
Mike Vogdes
01-31-2005, 01:18 PM
One of the best purchases I ever made reguarding painting gear would be my brush spinner, bought it 10 years ago from the woodenboat catalog and use it all the time. I have a dedicated five gallon bucket with a 4" hole cut in the lid for spinning brushes dry after a thinner bath.
Bruce Hooke
01-31-2005, 01:26 PM
A few random thoughts from my miscellaneous experience with painting things:
I have always used disposible containers to hold the paint I am using (I only paint straight from the can in very rare cases). Sure you can get metal paint pots but then you have to use thinner to clean them and then find a way to get rid of the thinner. I think it is more efficient from a time, price and environmental perspective to use disposable containers but I have to admit, I've never tried to actually calculate the various costs. I used to use paper paint pots but they are getting hard to find so now I often use plastic. Sometimes I will wipe out a plastic container with a paper towel and then reuse it.
I would not bother getting in a lot of thinners and solvents in advance. Get what you need for a particular job and then you'll have it. The one exception to this is that I would get some Penetrol as soon as you have a chance. It is a useful additive to most traditional marine paints and varnishes. When I was working in a boatyard we almost always added some. It makes the coats a little thinner but they end up going on smoother.
The brush issue has been debated into eternity many times over. You might check the FAQ, I'd bet there's some good information there on brushes. Depending on what I am doing I may use anything from a 50 cent throwaway chip brush to a 75 cent foam brush to a 30 dollar paint or varnish brush. I find that the expensive brushes do work better, especially on difficult surfaces like round edges and complex details, but the throwaway brushes do have their place too, especially for small jobs. I get chip brushes by the case from Jamestown, mostly for epoxy work.
IMOOP a brush spinner is an essential tool for cleaning a good brush. You can get a brush clean just using the dip and wipe method but it takes forever and so it rarely gets done well. Just make sure you neatly wrap the brush up in something (like a paper towel) that will hold the bristles in while the brush dries after you spin it clean. If you negelect this step you will end up with all the bristles splayed out, which makes for a useless brush.
You might want to check out the article that Fine Woodworking recently ran on how to make a fire-resistant storage space for solvents and paints.
Bruce Hooke
01-31-2005, 01:26 PM
A few random thoughts from my miscellaneous experience with painting things:
I have always used disposible containers to hold the paint I am using (I only paint straight from the can in very rare cases). Sure you can get metal paint pots but then you have to use thinner to clean them and then find a way to get rid of the thinner. I think it is more efficient from a time, price and environmental perspective to use disposable containers but I have to admit, I've never tried to actually calculate the various costs. I used to use paper paint pots but they are getting hard to find so now I often use plastic. Sometimes I will wipe out a plastic container with a paper towel and then reuse it.
I would not bother getting in a lot of thinners and solvents in advance. Get what you need for a particular job and then you'll have it. The one exception to this is that I would get some Penetrol as soon as you have a chance. It is a useful additive to most traditional marine paints and varnishes. When I was working in a boatyard we almost always added some. It makes the coats a little thinner but they end up going on smoother.
The brush issue has been debated into eternity many times over. You might check the FAQ, I'd bet there's some good information there on brushes. Depending on what I am doing I may use anything from a 50 cent throwaway chip brush to a 75 cent foam brush to a 30 dollar paint or varnish brush. I find that the expensive brushes do work better, especially on difficult surfaces like round edges and complex details, but the throwaway brushes do have their place too, especially for small jobs. I get chip brushes by the case from Jamestown, mostly for epoxy work.
IMOOP a brush spinner is an essential tool for cleaning a good brush. You can get a brush clean just using the dip and wipe method but it takes forever and so it rarely gets done well. Just make sure you neatly wrap the brush up in something (like a paper towel) that will hold the bristles in while the brush dries after you spin it clean. If you negelect this step you will end up with all the bristles splayed out, which makes for a useless brush.
You might want to check out the article that Fine Woodworking recently ran on how to make a fire-resistant storage space for solvents and paints.
Bruce Hooke
01-31-2005, 01:26 PM
A few random thoughts from my miscellaneous experience with painting things:
I have always used disposible containers to hold the paint I am using (I only paint straight from the can in very rare cases). Sure you can get metal paint pots but then you have to use thinner to clean them and then find a way to get rid of the thinner. I think it is more efficient from a time, price and environmental perspective to use disposable containers but I have to admit, I've never tried to actually calculate the various costs. I used to use paper paint pots but they are getting hard to find so now I often use plastic. Sometimes I will wipe out a plastic container with a paper towel and then reuse it.
I would not bother getting in a lot of thinners and solvents in advance. Get what you need for a particular job and then you'll have it. The one exception to this is that I would get some Penetrol as soon as you have a chance. It is a useful additive to most traditional marine paints and varnishes. When I was working in a boatyard we almost always added some. It makes the coats a little thinner but they end up going on smoother.
The brush issue has been debated into eternity many times over. You might check the FAQ, I'd bet there's some good information there on brushes. Depending on what I am doing I may use anything from a 50 cent throwaway chip brush to a 75 cent foam brush to a 30 dollar paint or varnish brush. I find that the expensive brushes do work better, especially on difficult surfaces like round edges and complex details, but the throwaway brushes do have their place too, especially for small jobs. I get chip brushes by the case from Jamestown, mostly for epoxy work.
IMOOP a brush spinner is an essential tool for cleaning a good brush. You can get a brush clean just using the dip and wipe method but it takes forever and so it rarely gets done well. Just make sure you neatly wrap the brush up in something (like a paper towel) that will hold the bristles in while the brush dries after you spin it clean. If you negelect this step you will end up with all the bristles splayed out, which makes for a useless brush.
You might want to check out the article that Fine Woodworking recently ran on how to make a fire-resistant storage space for solvents and paints.
Jim H
01-31-2005, 03:31 PM
I would definitly add "brush cleaner" to your list. It saves old well used "good" brushes that start to get stiff.
Jim H
01-31-2005, 03:31 PM
I would definitly add "brush cleaner" to your list. It saves old well used "good" brushes that start to get stiff.
Jim H
01-31-2005, 03:31 PM
I would definitly add "brush cleaner" to your list. It saves old well used "good" brushes that start to get stiff.
Jim H
01-31-2005, 07:40 PM
Varnishing Brushes (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002332)
Jim H
01-31-2005, 07:40 PM
Varnishing Brushes (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002332)
Jim H
01-31-2005, 07:40 PM
Varnishing Brushes (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=002332)
Billy Bones
02-01-2005, 03:26 AM
I got rid of my spray gear a long time ago. It ain't worth the hassle.
Good brushes (I like Coronas) are for when you can't abide stray bristles from the chinese ones, which I buy by the box.
Otherwise, ditto everything Bruce said. Low tech is the way to go for painting and finishing. Think of the old painter with the spotless whites and sash brush for domestic work and roll and tip with disposable gear (except brushes) for the marine stuff, excepting varnish, see articles in WB by rebecca wittman, also her book.
Billy Bones
02-01-2005, 03:26 AM
I got rid of my spray gear a long time ago. It ain't worth the hassle.
Good brushes (I like Coronas) are for when you can't abide stray bristles from the chinese ones, which I buy by the box.
Otherwise, ditto everything Bruce said. Low tech is the way to go for painting and finishing. Think of the old painter with the spotless whites and sash brush for domestic work and roll and tip with disposable gear (except brushes) for the marine stuff, excepting varnish, see articles in WB by rebecca wittman, also her book.
Billy Bones
02-01-2005, 03:26 AM
I got rid of my spray gear a long time ago. It ain't worth the hassle.
Good brushes (I like Coronas) are for when you can't abide stray bristles from the chinese ones, which I buy by the box.
Otherwise, ditto everything Bruce said. Low tech is the way to go for painting and finishing. Think of the old painter with the spotless whites and sash brush for domestic work and roll and tip with disposable gear (except brushes) for the marine stuff, excepting varnish, see articles in WB by rebecca wittman, also her book.
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 06:43 AM
I've recently bought some Benjamin Moore labeled brushes that are decent-middle of the road-it ain't a crime if you wreck one,but will definitely last a few years with some care.I rinse them and hang them in clear(not clean) thinner.
When I roll, I generally use a foamy with the brand name of Whizzz.They're longer lasting than the B-Moore ones.
R
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 06:43 AM
I've recently bought some Benjamin Moore labeled brushes that are decent-middle of the road-it ain't a crime if you wreck one,but will definitely last a few years with some care.I rinse them and hang them in clear(not clean) thinner.
When I roll, I generally use a foamy with the brand name of Whizzz.They're longer lasting than the B-Moore ones.
R
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 06:43 AM
I've recently bought some Benjamin Moore labeled brushes that are decent-middle of the road-it ain't a crime if you wreck one,but will definitely last a few years with some care.I rinse them and hang them in clear(not clean) thinner.
When I roll, I generally use a foamy with the brand name of Whizzz.They're longer lasting than the B-Moore ones.
R
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 08:23 AM
Another note, for what it's worth...for a broad spectrum of painting tasks you will need at least three dedicatd brushes: one for varnish, one for oil-based paints, and one for latex. A varnish brush should only be used for varnish, otherwise you are liable to end up with varnish tinted the color of the last paint job! And the bristles are different on oil and latex brushes. Of course if you need to varnish or paint both broad surfaces and narrow surfaces you may need different widths of brush as well.
Rolling, or rolling and tipping, is great for broad surfaces.
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 08:23 AM
Another note, for what it's worth...for a broad spectrum of painting tasks you will need at least three dedicatd brushes: one for varnish, one for oil-based paints, and one for latex. A varnish brush should only be used for varnish, otherwise you are liable to end up with varnish tinted the color of the last paint job! And the bristles are different on oil and latex brushes. Of course if you need to varnish or paint both broad surfaces and narrow surfaces you may need different widths of brush as well.
Rolling, or rolling and tipping, is great for broad surfaces.
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 08:23 AM
Another note, for what it's worth...for a broad spectrum of painting tasks you will need at least three dedicatd brushes: one for varnish, one for oil-based paints, and one for latex. A varnish brush should only be used for varnish, otherwise you are liable to end up with varnish tinted the color of the last paint job! And the bristles are different on oil and latex brushes. Of course if you need to varnish or paint both broad surfaces and narrow surfaces you may need different widths of brush as well.
Rolling, or rolling and tipping, is great for broad surfaces.
Do I have the bristle thing right? Natural bristle for oil-based, and synthetic for latex?
Do I have the bristle thing right? Natural bristle for oil-based, and synthetic for latex?
Do I have the bristle thing right? Natural bristle for oil-based, and synthetic for latex?
Research keeps turning up Wooster and Purdy as the "best" brushes, but, of course, there are dozens of shapes and bristle selections. Angled, straight, round, full, yada yada yada.
Research keeps turning up Wooster and Purdy as the "best" brushes, but, of course, there are dozens of shapes and bristle selections. Angled, straight, round, full, yada yada yada.
Research keeps turning up Wooster and Purdy as the "best" brushes, but, of course, there are dozens of shapes and bristle selections. Angled, straight, round, full, yada yada yada.
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 12:41 PM
Purdys are great,but dear.
The Woosters that they stock here are a bit floppy for my taste,until they get some residue embedded in the ferrule.
I only use synthetic bristles.They seem to stand up better to harsh cleaning.Keep the original wrapper or make your own from cardboard.
Size wise,I use a 1 1/2" sash and a 2 1/2" sash.If I need anything bigger,I roll or spray.
R
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 12:41 PM
Purdys are great,but dear.
The Woosters that they stock here are a bit floppy for my taste,until they get some residue embedded in the ferrule.
I only use synthetic bristles.They seem to stand up better to harsh cleaning.Keep the original wrapper or make your own from cardboard.
Size wise,I use a 1 1/2" sash and a 2 1/2" sash.If I need anything bigger,I roll or spray.
R
Ron Williamson
02-01-2005, 12:41 PM
Purdys are great,but dear.
The Woosters that they stock here are a bit floppy for my taste,until they get some residue embedded in the ferrule.
I only use synthetic bristles.They seem to stand up better to harsh cleaning.Keep the original wrapper or make your own from cardboard.
Size wise,I use a 1 1/2" sash and a 2 1/2" sash.If I need anything bigger,I roll or spray.
R
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 05:57 PM
I've sead it before and I'll say it again,,,,,,,,,
I have a collection of great brushes, Hameltons Namlevar, Hameltons Perfection and Epifanes round and oval. About £400 at todays prices. Never use 'em
For ten years I have used Jenny (or Jens) foam brushes and rollers for paint and varnish and they work. Roll and tip is the name of the game.
I'm not a tradesman I (mostly) work only on my own boat and the paint finish on Patiences' topsides is a thing of joy. Honest. Not a boat in the Basin to beat her. Lets face it, my only real fault is too much modesty,,,,,, smile.gif
I save a fortune on thinners, I never clean a brush, and that hour at the end of the day cleaning brushes is now devoted to drinking and resting.
Try them.
But first learn that sanding and filling is where the real work is. Laying on paint is pleasure after labour.
IanW
[ 02-01-2005, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 05:57 PM
I've sead it before and I'll say it again,,,,,,,,,
I have a collection of great brushes, Hameltons Namlevar, Hameltons Perfection and Epifanes round and oval. About £400 at todays prices. Never use 'em
For ten years I have used Jenny (or Jens) foam brushes and rollers for paint and varnish and they work. Roll and tip is the name of the game.
I'm not a tradesman I (mostly) work only on my own boat and the paint finish on Patiences' topsides is a thing of joy. Honest. Not a boat in the Basin to beat her. Lets face it, my only real fault is too much modesty,,,,,, smile.gif
I save a fortune on thinners, I never clean a brush, and that hour at the end of the day cleaning brushes is now devoted to drinking and resting.
Try them.
But first learn that sanding and filling is where the real work is. Laying on paint is pleasure after labour.
IanW
[ 02-01-2005, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 05:57 PM
I've sead it before and I'll say it again,,,,,,,,,
I have a collection of great brushes, Hameltons Namlevar, Hameltons Perfection and Epifanes round and oval. About £400 at todays prices. Never use 'em
For ten years I have used Jenny (or Jens) foam brushes and rollers for paint and varnish and they work. Roll and tip is the name of the game.
I'm not a tradesman I (mostly) work only on my own boat and the paint finish on Patiences' topsides is a thing of joy. Honest. Not a boat in the Basin to beat her. Lets face it, my only real fault is too much modesty,,,,,, smile.gif
I save a fortune on thinners, I never clean a brush, and that hour at the end of the day cleaning brushes is now devoted to drinking and resting.
Try them.
But first learn that sanding and filling is where the real work is. Laying on paint is pleasure after labour.
IanW
[ 02-01-2005, 06:05 PM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Oy! :confused:
I'm using non-Jen foam brushes now, and I don't like the results. I'm spreading the paint too thinly with them, which may well be my fault, but there you are.
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;)
Oy! :confused:
I'm using non-Jen foam brushes now, and I don't like the results. I'm spreading the paint too thinly with them, which may well be my fault, but there you are.
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;)
Oy! :confused:
I'm using non-Jen foam brushes now, and I don't like the results. I'm spreading the paint too thinly with them, which may well be my fault, but there you are.
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;)
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 06:57 PM
Jen Jen Jen
'Nuf said ;)
- M (owner of large collection of seldom used high-dollar brushes)
P.S. - Here's your foam brush trick of the day...
Let's say you're right handed and you're wearing latex or nitrel (much better) gloves. When you think you're finished, slap the foam brush into the palm of your left hand and pull the glove off over the brush. Toss said glove-covered brush into yonder trash can (outdoors of course) and even hours later if you see a holiday, run, drip, or anything that fits into the "oh crap" category, just retrieve yon glove-covered brush and a quick touch up is a simple ta da ;)
[ 02-01-2005, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 06:57 PM
Jen Jen Jen
'Nuf said ;)
- M (owner of large collection of seldom used high-dollar brushes)
P.S. - Here's your foam brush trick of the day...
Let's say you're right handed and you're wearing latex or nitrel (much better) gloves. When you think you're finished, slap the foam brush into the palm of your left hand and pull the glove off over the brush. Toss said glove-covered brush into yonder trash can (outdoors of course) and even hours later if you see a holiday, run, drip, or anything that fits into the "oh crap" category, just retrieve yon glove-covered brush and a quick touch up is a simple ta da ;)
[ 02-01-2005, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 06:57 PM
Jen Jen Jen
'Nuf said ;)
- M (owner of large collection of seldom used high-dollar brushes)
P.S. - Here's your foam brush trick of the day...
Let's say you're right handed and you're wearing latex or nitrel (much better) gloves. When you think you're finished, slap the foam brush into the palm of your left hand and pull the glove off over the brush. Toss said glove-covered brush into yonder trash can (outdoors of course) and even hours later if you see a holiday, run, drip, or anything that fits into the "oh crap" category, just retrieve yon glove-covered brush and a quick touch up is a simple ta da ;)
[ 02-01-2005, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]
Margo...great tip, thanx!
I'll make you the same offer I made the WragMan, but I'll pay you 30% for yours. You're prettier, and the freight$ will be lower. ;)
Margo...great tip, thanx!
I'll make you the same offer I made the WragMan, but I'll pay you 30% for yours. You're prettier, and the freight$ will be lower. ;)
Margo...great tip, thanx!
I'll make you the same offer I made the WragMan, but I'll pay you 30% for yours. You're prettier, and the freight$ will be lower. ;)
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 07:08 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;) Nah,,,,, they have a place in a fitted cabinet and they give an air of competance to an otherwise scruffy workshop/shed/oldboatbits store. ,,,,,, but contact my executors later and put a bid in then. smile.gif
IanW
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 07:08 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;) Nah,,,,, they have a place in a fitted cabinet and they give an air of competance to an otherwise scruffy workshop/shed/oldboatbits store. ,,,,,, but contact my executors later and put a bid in then. smile.gif
IanW
Magwitch
02-01-2005, 07:08 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
Ian, I'll give you 25% of their value for your brush collection. ;) Nah,,,,, they have a place in a fitted cabinet and they give an air of competance to an otherwise scruffy workshop/shed/oldboatbits store. ,,,,,, but contact my executors later and put a bid in then. smile.gif
IanW
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 07:10 PM
redface.gif http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/otn/laughing/yelrotflmao.gif
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 07:10 PM
redface.gif http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/otn/laughing/yelrotflmao.gif
Concordia..41
02-01-2005, 07:10 PM
redface.gif http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/otn/laughing/yelrotflmao.gif
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 11:26 PM
I use foam brushes a good bit too, but where I find they let me down is on things like paddles and oars. The foam does not conform to the shape well and so it is much harder to lay on a smooth coat. If you push down enough to get the foam to wrap around the surface a bit then you are pushing too hard at the high point and so you squeeze out too much finish there. If you don't push down much then you only get finish on a very narrow area so you have to take a lot more passes and you loose your wet edge. So, in cases like this I use a "real brush." For a really big job I would also be inclined to use a real brush because it holds up better and the time spent cleaning is less of a factor. Of course on a big flat surface rolling and tipping is the way to go.
With a good brush spinner cleaning good brushes should only take a few minutes. However, in a home shop situation it tends to take more time because you have to dig out whatever solvent you are using, pour it into something, work the brush around in it, find the container you spin the brush inside, spin the brush, repeat the solvent dip and spin another time, figure out what the hell to do with the used solvent, put everything away, etc. In a boatyard all of this stuff will probably have a dedicated space and so you can do the cleaning very quickly (like in 2 minutes). At the yard where I worked there was simply a big open air drum of mixed solvent that we used for cleaning brushes. This probably would not fly these days but it got the job done in a hurry!
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 11:26 PM
I use foam brushes a good bit too, but where I find they let me down is on things like paddles and oars. The foam does not conform to the shape well and so it is much harder to lay on a smooth coat. If you push down enough to get the foam to wrap around the surface a bit then you are pushing too hard at the high point and so you squeeze out too much finish there. If you don't push down much then you only get finish on a very narrow area so you have to take a lot more passes and you loose your wet edge. So, in cases like this I use a "real brush." For a really big job I would also be inclined to use a real brush because it holds up better and the time spent cleaning is less of a factor. Of course on a big flat surface rolling and tipping is the way to go.
With a good brush spinner cleaning good brushes should only take a few minutes. However, in a home shop situation it tends to take more time because you have to dig out whatever solvent you are using, pour it into something, work the brush around in it, find the container you spin the brush inside, spin the brush, repeat the solvent dip and spin another time, figure out what the hell to do with the used solvent, put everything away, etc. In a boatyard all of this stuff will probably have a dedicated space and so you can do the cleaning very quickly (like in 2 minutes). At the yard where I worked there was simply a big open air drum of mixed solvent that we used for cleaning brushes. This probably would not fly these days but it got the job done in a hurry!
Bruce Hooke
02-01-2005, 11:26 PM
I use foam brushes a good bit too, but where I find they let me down is on things like paddles and oars. The foam does not conform to the shape well and so it is much harder to lay on a smooth coat. If you push down enough to get the foam to wrap around the surface a bit then you are pushing too hard at the high point and so you squeeze out too much finish there. If you don't push down much then you only get finish on a very narrow area so you have to take a lot more passes and you loose your wet edge. So, in cases like this I use a "real brush." For a really big job I would also be inclined to use a real brush because it holds up better and the time spent cleaning is less of a factor. Of course on a big flat surface rolling and tipping is the way to go.
With a good brush spinner cleaning good brushes should only take a few minutes. However, in a home shop situation it tends to take more time because you have to dig out whatever solvent you are using, pour it into something, work the brush around in it, find the container you spin the brush inside, spin the brush, repeat the solvent dip and spin another time, figure out what the hell to do with the used solvent, put everything away, etc. In a boatyard all of this stuff will probably have a dedicated space and so you can do the cleaning very quickly (like in 2 minutes). At the yard where I worked there was simply a big open air drum of mixed solvent that we used for cleaning brushes. This probably would not fly these days but it got the job done in a hurry!
I have been a professional painter and decorator since 1970. Up until about 10 years ago I religiously cleaned my brushes and roller covers. I always ended up with several worn out brushes that would only be good as "dusters". Worn covers should just be thrown away.
Then came the problem of disposing of used thinners. I kept a 5 gallon bucket full and it would settle out with time but the settled thinner isn't the same as clean thinner. Settled thinner is good for the first and maybe second wash but you have to use clean to get the bristles absolutely clean.
The last few years I have been in the "use once and throw away mode". I find it's a lot less hassle and my quality of work hasn't suffered. I still have some nice bristle brushes in case of oil based paints or varnish but I don't obsess about them anymore.
I have been a professional painter and decorator since 1970. Up until about 10 years ago I religiously cleaned my brushes and roller covers. I always ended up with several worn out brushes that would only be good as "dusters". Worn covers should just be thrown away.
Then came the problem of disposing of used thinners. I kept a 5 gallon bucket full and it would settle out with time but the settled thinner isn't the same as clean thinner. Settled thinner is good for the first and maybe second wash but you have to use clean to get the bristles absolutely clean.
The last few years I have been in the "use once and throw away mode". I find it's a lot less hassle and my quality of work hasn't suffered. I still have some nice bristle brushes in case of oil based paints or varnish but I don't obsess about them anymore.
I have been a professional painter and decorator since 1970. Up until about 10 years ago I religiously cleaned my brushes and roller covers. I always ended up with several worn out brushes that would only be good as "dusters". Worn covers should just be thrown away.
Then came the problem of disposing of used thinners. I kept a 5 gallon bucket full and it would settle out with time but the settled thinner isn't the same as clean thinner. Settled thinner is good for the first and maybe second wash but you have to use clean to get the bristles absolutely clean.
The last few years I have been in the "use once and throw away mode". I find it's a lot less hassle and my quality of work hasn't suffered. I still have some nice bristle brushes in case of oil based paints or varnish but I don't obsess about them anymore.
In light of what appears to be a savings of mucho dinero, I am convinced that foam is the way to go for most of my painting. I just ordered a bunch of Jens, and will keep working at the technique. My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.
Thanks for all the advice.
In light of what appears to be a savings of mucho dinero, I am convinced that foam is the way to go for most of my painting. I just ordered a bunch of Jens, and will keep working at the technique. My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.
Thanks for all the advice.
In light of what appears to be a savings of mucho dinero, I am convinced that foam is the way to go for most of my painting. I just ordered a bunch of Jens, and will keep working at the technique. My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.
Thanks for all the advice.
TimothyB
02-03-2005, 09:03 AM
Quick thing:
You can buy paper buckets online from Home Despot. 2.5 Quart for $1 each.
http://tinyurl.com/5nobm
I got this link from Froogle, Google's shopping search engine:
http://froogle.google.com/froogle
Very handy tool!
[ 02-03-2005, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]
TimothyB
02-03-2005, 09:03 AM
Quick thing:
You can buy paper buckets online from Home Despot. 2.5 Quart for $1 each.
http://tinyurl.com/5nobm
I got this link from Froogle, Google's shopping search engine:
http://froogle.google.com/froogle
Very handy tool!
[ 02-03-2005, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]
TimothyB
02-03-2005, 09:03 AM
Quick thing:
You can buy paper buckets online from Home Despot. 2.5 Quart for $1 each.
http://tinyurl.com/5nobm
I got this link from Froogle, Google's shopping search engine:
http://froogle.google.com/froogle
Very handy tool!
[ 02-03-2005, 09:05 AM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 10:03 AM
One more thing, now I'm old and feeble I have arthritus and anything like a three inch brush loaded with paint makes my wrists hurt. Roll and tip doesn't hurt,,,,,,,,so the paint goes on and I don't need to pay a pro to do a worse job than I can. Win-win-win!
IanW
[ 02-03-2005, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 10:03 AM
One more thing, now I'm old and feeble I have arthritus and anything like a three inch brush loaded with paint makes my wrists hurt. Roll and tip doesn't hurt,,,,,,,,so the paint goes on and I don't need to pay a pro to do a worse job than I can. Win-win-win!
IanW
[ 02-03-2005, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 10:03 AM
One more thing, now I'm old and feeble I have arthritus and anything like a three inch brush loaded with paint makes my wrists hurt. Roll and tip doesn't hurt,,,,,,,,so the paint goes on and I don't need to pay a pro to do a worse job than I can. Win-win-win!
IanW
[ 02-03-2005, 10:04 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 10:13 AM
Originally posted by Donn:
My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.Don't count on it! I've come across some really horrible foam brushes that were all but impossible to do anything decent with. The worst are the ones that have a plastic tongue inside the foam.
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 10:13 AM
Originally posted by Donn:
My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.Don't count on it! I've come across some really horrible foam brushes that were all but impossible to do anything decent with. The worst are the ones that have a plastic tongue inside the foam.
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 10:13 AM
Originally posted by Donn:
My problems with HD foam brushes are probably my problems, and not the brushes.Don't count on it! I've come across some really horrible foam brushes that were all but impossible to do anything decent with. The worst are the ones that have a plastic tongue inside the foam.
JimConlin
02-03-2005, 01:26 PM
As much out of habit as any other reason, I get foam brushes and chip brushes by the case from Jamestown.
Jamestown also sells plastic paint pots. I can get epoxy out of 'em 80% of the time and sometimes can scrape dried paint out if i wait long enough.
Lately i've tried rolling varnish with the small (~1" dia.) foam rollers and tipping with a foam brush. I've been pleasantly surprised by the result.
JimConlin
02-03-2005, 01:26 PM
As much out of habit as any other reason, I get foam brushes and chip brushes by the case from Jamestown.
Jamestown also sells plastic paint pots. I can get epoxy out of 'em 80% of the time and sometimes can scrape dried paint out if i wait long enough.
Lately i've tried rolling varnish with the small (~1" dia.) foam rollers and tipping with a foam brush. I've been pleasantly surprised by the result.
JimConlin
02-03-2005, 01:26 PM
As much out of habit as any other reason, I get foam brushes and chip brushes by the case from Jamestown.
Jamestown also sells plastic paint pots. I can get epoxy out of 'em 80% of the time and sometimes can scrape dried paint out if i wait long enough.
Lately i've tried rolling varnish with the small (~1" dia.) foam rollers and tipping with a foam brush. I've been pleasantly surprised by the result.
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 02:06 PM
Yes, but the smoothing is done very lightly. I've done this with a linear polyurethane type paints, in dark blue no less, and it ended up looking pretty nice if I do say so myself. If the surface you are doing is at all large then it becomes a two person job, with one person rolling and one person tipping.
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 02:06 PM
Yes, but the smoothing is done very lightly. I've done this with a linear polyurethane type paints, in dark blue no less, and it ended up looking pretty nice if I do say so myself. If the surface you are doing is at all large then it becomes a two person job, with one person rolling and one person tipping.
Bruce Hooke
02-03-2005, 02:06 PM
Yes, but the smoothing is done very lightly. I've done this with a linear polyurethane type paints, in dark blue no less, and it ended up looking pretty nice if I do say so myself. If the surface you are doing is at all large then it becomes a two person job, with one person rolling and one person tipping.
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 05:41 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?Yes, use the roller to apply the paint or varnish, not too thickly, make sure you roll it out well on the paint tray, then roll it on the work in 'plaid', horizontally, verticaly and diagonaly . Then with a dry brush just barely touching the surface tip off very lightly with the brush at an angle of 45 degrees or so, from dry surface across the rolled area. I find that when painting topsides that a piece about two foot square (4 squarefeet) is about right. Try not to let the brush pick up to much paint. You are just bursting any bubbles and smoothing out what the roller put on. It works a treat and is well worth learning.
IanW
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 05:41 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?Yes, use the roller to apply the paint or varnish, not too thickly, make sure you roll it out well on the paint tray, then roll it on the work in 'plaid', horizontally, verticaly and diagonaly . Then with a dry brush just barely touching the surface tip off very lightly with the brush at an angle of 45 degrees or so, from dry surface across the rolled area. I find that when painting topsides that a piece about two foot square (4 squarefeet) is about right. Try not to let the brush pick up to much paint. You are just bursting any bubbles and smoothing out what the roller put on. It works a treat and is well worth learning.
IanW
Magwitch
02-03-2005, 05:41 PM
Originally posted by Donn:
"Rolling and tipping" has been mentioned several times. Is this rolling the paint on and smoothing it out with a brush?Yes, use the roller to apply the paint or varnish, not too thickly, make sure you roll it out well on the paint tray, then roll it on the work in 'plaid', horizontally, verticaly and diagonaly . Then with a dry brush just barely touching the surface tip off very lightly with the brush at an angle of 45 degrees or so, from dry surface across the rolled area. I find that when painting topsides that a piece about two foot square (4 squarefeet) is about right. Try not to let the brush pick up to much paint. You are just bursting any bubbles and smoothing out what the roller put on. It works a treat and is well worth learning.
IanW
The Jen brushes arrived today (Jamestown is good!), and there's an amazing difference between them and the Home Despot Chinese version. The Jen's foam is more dense, hence, stiffer (and half the price, even after freight!). I'll try one tomorrow.
An interesting aside. Thinking brush spinner, I chucked a dirty Home Despot foam brush into an electric drill this afternoon, after swishing it around in warm water (acrylic latex exterior paint). I took it out to the backyard, and fired up the drill. THWACK! The leading inch of the foam ripped off, and smacked into the side of the boathouse at about 600 feet per second.
Was the drill too fast? :D
The Jen brushes arrived today (Jamestown is good!), and there's an amazing difference between them and the Home Despot Chinese version. The Jen's foam is more dense, hence, stiffer (and half the price, even after freight!). I'll try one tomorrow.
An interesting aside. Thinking brush spinner, I chucked a dirty Home Despot foam brush into an electric drill this afternoon, after swishing it around in warm water (acrylic latex exterior paint). I took it out to the backyard, and fired up the drill. THWACK! The leading inch of the foam ripped off, and smacked into the side of the boathouse at about 600 feet per second.
Was the drill too fast? :D
The Jen brushes arrived today (Jamestown is good!), and there's an amazing difference between them and the Home Despot Chinese version. The Jen's foam is more dense, hence, stiffer (and half the price, even after freight!). I'll try one tomorrow.
An interesting aside. Thinking brush spinner, I chucked a dirty Home Despot foam brush into an electric drill this afternoon, after swishing it around in warm water (acrylic latex exterior paint). I took it out to the backyard, and fired up the drill. THWACK! The leading inch of the foam ripped off, and smacked into the side of the boathouse at about 600 feet per second.
Was the drill too fast? :D
Ron Williamson
02-03-2005, 09:38 PM
Nope.
It sounds about perfect.
R
Ron Williamson
02-03-2005, 09:38 PM
Nope.
It sounds about perfect.
R
Ron Williamson
02-03-2005, 09:38 PM
Nope.
It sounds about perfect.
R
Andrew Craig-Bennett
02-04-2005, 09:23 AM
I still use nice bristle brushes. I tried foam ones but I did not get on with them.
An amateur is in a different position to a profesional. I've got some brushes that are twenty years old. They are like old friends.
Andrew Craig-Bennett
02-04-2005, 09:23 AM
I still use nice bristle brushes. I tried foam ones but I did not get on with them.
An amateur is in a different position to a profesional. I've got some brushes that are twenty years old. They are like old friends.
Andrew Craig-Bennett
02-04-2005, 09:23 AM
I still use nice bristle brushes. I tried foam ones but I did not get on with them.
An amateur is in a different position to a profesional. I've got some brushes that are twenty years old. They are like old friends.
Ken Hutchins
02-04-2005, 09:35 AM
To clean my good varnish brushes I do a rough clean in thinner, then wash the hair with shampoo and hot water. ;)
Ken Hutchins
02-04-2005, 09:35 AM
To clean my good varnish brushes I do a rough clean in thinner, then wash the hair with shampoo and hot water. ;)
Ken Hutchins
02-04-2005, 09:35 AM
To clean my good varnish brushes I do a rough clean in thinner, then wash the hair with shampoo and hot water. ;)
The Jen brushes are aces! Good call! :cool:
The Jen brushes are aces! Good call! :cool:
The Jen brushes are aces! Good call! :cool:
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