Blades for bandsaw . . .

[DougC]

[Inspired by Norm's tablesaw inquiry.] Are the Viking bandsaw blades at Lee Valley any good? Any other recommendations?
I just got a 14" Delta bandsaw with riser addition (which I haven't intalled yet). My days of hacking away with a jigsaw(and then cleaning up with a spokeshave)are over. I can rip! I can resaw! I can be somebody!
Doug

[DougC]

[Inspired by Norm's tablesaw inquiry.] Are the Viking bandsaw blades at Lee Valley any good? Any other recommendations?
I just got a 14" Delta bandsaw with riser addition (which I haven't intalled yet). My days of hacking away with a jigsaw(and then cleaning up with a spokeshave)are over. I can rip! I can resaw! I can be somebody!
Doug

[DougC]

[Inspired by Norm's tablesaw inquiry.] Are the Viking bandsaw blades at Lee Valley any good? Any other recommendations?
I just got a 14" Delta bandsaw with riser addition (which I haven't intalled yet). My days of hacking away with a jigsaw(and then cleaning up with a spokeshave)are over. I can rip! I can resaw! I can be somebody!
Doug

[Bob Perkins]

Doug,

The PSWood Timberwolf bandsaw blades are great IMHO. I've used a few cheapies until I happened upon these blades.

If you give them a shot, pay attention to the tensioning instructions. You don't crank them up as tight as a standard blade. The instructions are on them.

I've had very good luck with them.

[Bob Perkins]

Doug,

The PSWood Timberwolf bandsaw blades are great IMHO. I've used a few cheapies until I happened upon these blades.

If you give them a shot, pay attention to the tensioning instructions. You don't crank them up as tight as a standard blade. The instructions are on them.

I've had very good luck with them.

[Bob Perkins]

Doug,

The PSWood Timberwolf bandsaw blades are great IMHO. I've used a few cheapies until I happened upon these blades.

If you give them a shot, pay attention to the tensioning instructions. You don't crank them up as tight as a standard blade. The instructions are on them.

I've had very good luck with them.

[NormMessinger]

Viking used to be Timber Wolf, right?

I kept meaning to order on based on the write up Highland Hardware catalouge gave them but by the time I ordered they were selling something they call the Wood Slicer. It the Viking is as good as the Wood Slicer it is an awesome blade.

My bandsaw is way under powered, washing machine motor on a 10" Inca. Resawing 3" hardwood is now easy on the saw and produces a cut like I had only read about before.

[NormMessinger]

Viking used to be Timber Wolf, right?

I kept meaning to order on based on the write up Highland Hardware catalouge gave them but by the time I ordered they were selling something they call the Wood Slicer. It the Viking is as good as the Wood Slicer it is an awesome blade.

My bandsaw is way under powered, washing machine motor on a 10" Inca. Resawing 3" hardwood is now easy on the saw and produces a cut like I had only read about before.

[NormMessinger]

Viking used to be Timber Wolf, right?

I kept meaning to order on based on the write up Highland Hardware catalouge gave them but by the time I ordered they were selling something they call the Wood Slicer. It the Viking is as good as the Wood Slicer it is an awesome blade.

My bandsaw is way under powered, washing machine motor on a 10" Inca. Resawing 3" hardwood is now easy on the saw and produces a cut like I had only read about before.

[Bruce Taylor]

Yeah, Timberwolf is sold as Viking, now. I use them, 'cause I can buy them in Ottawa, and they're a lot better than the scrap metal they sell at the Home stores...Vermont American, Starrett, etc. I don't know how they compare to yr. Wood Slicer, tho'.

The Vikings work well when new, but hit one little nail and the set goes all to hell. smile.gif

[Bruce Taylor]

Yeah, Timberwolf is sold as Viking, now. I use them, 'cause I can buy them in Ottawa, and they're a lot better than the scrap metal they sell at the Home stores...Vermont American, Starrett, etc. I don't know how they compare to yr. Wood Slicer, tho'.

The Vikings work well when new, but hit one little nail and the set goes all to hell. smile.gif

[Bruce Taylor]

Yeah, Timberwolf is sold as Viking, now. I use them, 'cause I can buy them in Ottawa, and they're a lot better than the scrap metal they sell at the Home stores...Vermont American, Starrett, etc. I don't know how they compare to yr. Wood Slicer, tho'.

The Vikings work well when new, but hit one little nail and the set goes all to hell. smile.gif

[Bruce Hooke]

For cutting veneer and similar tasks the 1/2" WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware has served me quite well. I believe my other blades are Lennox, from a nearby woodworking store, but I'm not positive about that. I have a 14" Delta with the riser and the enclosed base.

If you want to make blade changes a lot easier get Iturra Design's "Spinner Tension Adjuster". It turns the slow, somewhat painful task of tensioning the blade with the Delta knob into 10 seconds of gleefully spinning of a really nice handle. At the same time get Iturra's replacement spring.

Iturra Design also has lots of other excellent accessories for bandsaws, including a good selection of sawblades and some good information on choosing blades. You can get a catalog by calling 888-722-7078. Last I checked they did not have a website.

[Bruce Hooke]

For cutting veneer and similar tasks the 1/2" WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware has served me quite well. I believe my other blades are Lennox, from a nearby woodworking store, but I'm not positive about that. I have a 14" Delta with the riser and the enclosed base.

If you want to make blade changes a lot easier get Iturra Design's "Spinner Tension Adjuster". It turns the slow, somewhat painful task of tensioning the blade with the Delta knob into 10 seconds of gleefully spinning of a really nice handle. At the same time get Iturra's replacement spring.

Iturra Design also has lots of other excellent accessories for bandsaws, including a good selection of sawblades and some good information on choosing blades. You can get a catalog by calling 888-722-7078. Last I checked they did not have a website.

[Bruce Hooke]

For cutting veneer and similar tasks the 1/2" WoodSlicer from Highland Hardware has served me quite well. I believe my other blades are Lennox, from a nearby woodworking store, but I'm not positive about that. I have a 14" Delta with the riser and the enclosed base.

If you want to make blade changes a lot easier get Iturra Design's "Spinner Tension Adjuster". It turns the slow, somewhat painful task of tensioning the blade with the Delta knob into 10 seconds of gleefully spinning of a really nice handle. At the same time get Iturra's replacement spring.

Iturra Design also has lots of other excellent accessories for bandsaws, including a good selection of sawblades and some good information on choosing blades. You can get a catalog by calling 888-722-7078. Last I checked they did not have a website.

[Ed Harrow]

Another vote for Louis Iturra. His catalog has more bandsaw knowledge than most bandsaw books that you have to buy.

I've got a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. Does OK by me. I'm not going to lie and tell you that it goes thru 4" of angelique like a hot knife thru butter, however.

[Ed Harrow]

Another vote for Louis Iturra. His catalog has more bandsaw knowledge than most bandsaw books that you have to buy.

I've got a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. Does OK by me. I'm not going to lie and tell you that it goes thru 4" of angelique like a hot knife thru butter, however.

[Ed Harrow]

Another vote for Louis Iturra. His catalog has more bandsaw knowledge than most bandsaw books that you have to buy.

I've got a Highland Hardware Woodslicer blade. Does OK by me. I'm not going to lie and tell you that it goes thru 4" of angelique like a hot knife thru butter, however.

[Cecil Nickerson]

Well Ed, if you're having trouble with that pesky angelique, try this on for size. Of course it's a bugger to set up. The nautical connection did not escape me either. :D

http://www.garymkatz.com/ontheroad/hulloaks.htm

Regards, Cecil

p.s. Fleming can probably help with the operator's manual.

[Cecil Nickerson]

Well Ed, if you're having trouble with that pesky angelique, try this on for size. Of course it's a bugger to set up. The nautical connection did not escape me either. :D

http://www.garymkatz.com/ontheroad/hulloaks.htm

Regards, Cecil

p.s. Fleming can probably help with the operator's manual.

[Cecil Nickerson]

Well Ed, if you're having trouble with that pesky angelique, try this on for size. Of course it's a bugger to set up. The nautical connection did not escape me either. :D

http://www.garymkatz.com/ontheroad/hulloaks.htm

Regards, Cecil

p.s. Fleming can probably help with the operator's manual.

[Ed Harrow]

Corvallis! I've been there, and down beyond, so I've probably been close to this place 20 times and didn't even know it.

Nearly Normals - one of my favorite eating establishments - is located in Corvallis. One of the staff, who waited upon me many times, turned out to be on the FBI's wanted list. She was involved in the killing of Officer Schroder (sp?) in Boston back in the later 60's, early 70's. Part of the general turbulence of the period, and he was just in the wrong place... :( They finally caught up to her sometime in the last five years or so.

[Ed Harrow]

Corvallis! I've been there, and down beyond, so I've probably been close to this place 20 times and didn't even know it.

Nearly Normals - one of my favorite eating establishments - is located in Corvallis. One of the staff, who waited upon me many times, turned out to be on the FBI's wanted list. She was involved in the killing of Officer Schroder (sp?) in Boston back in the later 60's, early 70's. Part of the general turbulence of the period, and he was just in the wrong place... :( They finally caught up to her sometime in the last five years or so.

[Ed Harrow]

Corvallis! I've been there, and down beyond, so I've probably been close to this place 20 times and didn't even know it.

Nearly Normals - one of my favorite eating establishments - is located in Corvallis. One of the staff, who waited upon me many times, turned out to be on the FBI's wanted list. She was involved in the killing of Officer Schroder (sp?) in Boston back in the later 60's, early 70's. Part of the general turbulence of the period, and he was just in the wrong place... :( They finally caught up to her sometime in the last five years or so.

[warthog5]

Timberwolf Blades are available at

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/pitches.html

I just ordered 4 new one's. Now if my riser kit would get off of back order, I could put them on the saw.

[warthog5]

Timberwolf Blades are available at

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/pitches.html

I just ordered 4 new one's. Now if my riser kit would get off of back order, I could put them on the saw.

[warthog5]

Timberwolf Blades are available at

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/pitches.html

I just ordered 4 new one's. Now if my riser kit would get off of back order, I could put them on the saw.

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I have Delta 1.5hp with 6" riser and ball bearing blade guides. I can share what I have learned.

The brand of blade is less important than the type of blade. I use a 1/2" 3T/in skip tooth blade for resawing. I resaw 4 x 6 x 10' red cedar, redwood and H. Mahogany into 1/8" x 6 slices. (I get 14 slices and thickness sand .030-.045 to remove the tool marks.

The upper blade guide is difficult to align properly - it twists.

If you need to cut straight, .003" clearance between the blades and the blade guides is too much.

Have fun with your tool.

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I have Delta 1.5hp with 6" riser and ball bearing blade guides. I can share what I have learned.

The brand of blade is less important than the type of blade. I use a 1/2" 3T/in skip tooth blade for resawing. I resaw 4 x 6 x 10' red cedar, redwood and H. Mahogany into 1/8" x 6 slices. (I get 14 slices and thickness sand .030-.045 to remove the tool marks.

The upper blade guide is difficult to align properly - it twists.

If you need to cut straight, .003" clearance between the blades and the blade guides is too much.

Have fun with your tool.

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I have Delta 1.5hp with 6" riser and ball bearing blade guides. I can share what I have learned.

The brand of blade is less important than the type of blade. I use a 1/2" 3T/in skip tooth blade for resawing. I resaw 4 x 6 x 10' red cedar, redwood and H. Mahogany into 1/8" x 6 slices. (I get 14 slices and thickness sand .030-.045 to remove the tool marks.

The upper blade guide is difficult to align properly - it twists.

If you need to cut straight, .003" clearance between the blades and the blade guides is too much.

Have fun with your tool.

[DougC]

On the good advice here I bought a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. Works great! Though they're more expensive than the Viking blades Lee Valley sells which are supposed to be the same thing (?)

George, I have noticed something a hair off in tuning the saw (I've been getting a little drift even with the 1/2" blade). I will look for the twist you mentioned. Do you use the Delta fence or rig up one of your own (to account for drift). I will be ripping some 2" spruce into 1/8" strips this weekend. I haven't put on the riser block yet. Anything I should know? I'm hoping that once it's on there's no reason to take it of (meaning it doesn't affect the performance in cutting thinner material).
Doug

[DougC]

On the good advice here I bought a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. Works great! Though they're more expensive than the Viking blades Lee Valley sells which are supposed to be the same thing (?)

George, I have noticed something a hair off in tuning the saw (I've been getting a little drift even with the 1/2" blade). I will look for the twist you mentioned. Do you use the Delta fence or rig up one of your own (to account for drift). I will be ripping some 2" spruce into 1/8" strips this weekend. I haven't put on the riser block yet. Anything I should know? I'm hoping that once it's on there's no reason to take it of (meaning it doesn't affect the performance in cutting thinner material).
Doug

[DougC]

On the good advice here I bought a 1/2" Timberwolf blade. Works great! Though they're more expensive than the Viking blades Lee Valley sells which are supposed to be the same thing (?)

George, I have noticed something a hair off in tuning the saw (I've been getting a little drift even with the 1/2" blade). I will look for the twist you mentioned. Do you use the Delta fence or rig up one of your own (to account for drift). I will be ripping some 2" spruce into 1/8" strips this weekend. I haven't put on the riser block yet. Anything I should know? I'm hoping that once it's on there's no reason to take it of (meaning it doesn't affect the performance in cutting thinner material).
Doug

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I use the stock fence with no adjustment.

I do have a 6" high saddle that sits over the fence, a clamped piece of scrap keeps the rear of the fence from moving away from the blade, and feather boards hold my stock against the fence about 1" and 4" up.)

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I use the stock fence with no adjustment.

I do have a 6" high saddle that sits over the fence, a clamped piece of scrap keeps the rear of the fence from moving away from the blade, and feather boards hold my stock against the fence about 1" and 4" up.)

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

I use the stock fence with no adjustment.

I do have a 6" high saddle that sits over the fence, a clamped piece of scrap keeps the rear of the fence from moving away from the blade, and feather boards hold my stock against the fence about 1" and 4" up.)

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

Dave Fleming differ on the advice we give, because we use our tools differently.

That statement is important because different people have different needs and some people (I don't know Dave so I will not put him in either group) "abuse" their equipment and some don't.

This leads to different recommendations.

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

Dave Fleming differ on the advice we give, because we use our tools differently.

That statement is important because different people have different needs and some people (I don't know Dave so I will not put him in either group) "abuse" their equipment and some don't.

This leads to different recommendations.

[George Roberts]

DougC ---

Dave Fleming differ on the advice we give, because we use our tools differently.

That statement is important because different people have different needs and some people (I don't know Dave so I will not put him in either group) "abuse" their equipment and some don't.

This leads to different recommendations.

[Bruce Hooke]

I have a Delta with a riser on it and the setup has certainly done good work for me, and I'm fairly particular. I'm sure the added height causes a bit more diflection in the frame, and a bit more vibration, but it's never been enough to bother me. I've cut 1/16th inch or so veneer in 7-8" wide cherry using this setup. I'm sure an 18 or 20" saw would be a better way to go but since I don't have the space for something like that...

I certainly leave it in place all the time -- it's a fair amount of work to install so I can't imagine just putting it on when it's needed. Furthermore, once you have the block in place you, of course, need longer blades. So, if you are going to use the riser block I would put it on BEFORE you put any more money into blades that will be useless as soon as you install the riser block.

[Bruce Hooke]

I have a Delta with a riser on it and the setup has certainly done good work for me, and I'm fairly particular. I'm sure the added height causes a bit more diflection in the frame, and a bit more vibration, but it's never been enough to bother me. I've cut 1/16th inch or so veneer in 7-8" wide cherry using this setup. I'm sure an 18 or 20" saw would be a better way to go but since I don't have the space for something like that...

I certainly leave it in place all the time -- it's a fair amount of work to install so I can't imagine just putting it on when it's needed. Furthermore, once you have the block in place you, of course, need longer blades. So, if you are going to use the riser block I would put it on BEFORE you put any more money into blades that will be useless as soon as you install the riser block.

[Bruce Hooke]

I have a Delta with a riser on it and the setup has certainly done good work for me, and I'm fairly particular. I'm sure the added height causes a bit more diflection in the frame, and a bit more vibration, but it's never been enough to bother me. I've cut 1/16th inch or so veneer in 7-8" wide cherry using this setup. I'm sure an 18 or 20" saw would be a better way to go but since I don't have the space for something like that...

I certainly leave it in place all the time -- it's a fair amount of work to install so I can't imagine just putting it on when it's needed. Furthermore, once you have the block in place you, of course, need longer blades. So, if you are going to use the riser block I would put it on BEFORE you put any more money into blades that will be useless as soon as you install the riser block.