beeswax "recipes"

[sr. jigaboni]

I've read several references to special "recipes" of ingredients, etc. cooked into beeswax to make it better for sewing purposes. I've been using straight wax, real light colored nice stuff, but the grass is always greener. As I don't live near a sailmaker who sews by hand...

Anyone know any? Where to find some? I'm presuming these additives help the wax stay soft and sticky and all gooed into the cloth and twine and what-not, yes?

[sr. jigaboni]

I've read several references to special "recipes" of ingredients, etc. cooked into beeswax to make it better for sewing purposes. I've been using straight wax, real light colored nice stuff, but the grass is always greener. As I don't live near a sailmaker who sews by hand...

Anyone know any? Where to find some? I'm presuming these additives help the wax stay soft and sticky and all gooed into the cloth and twine and what-not, yes?

[sr. jigaboni]

I've read several references to special "recipes" of ingredients, etc. cooked into beeswax to make it better for sewing purposes. I've been using straight wax, real light colored nice stuff, but the grass is always greener. As I don't live near a sailmaker who sews by hand...

Anyone know any? Where to find some? I'm presuming these additives help the wax stay soft and sticky and all gooed into the cloth and twine and what-not, yes?

[Magwitch]

You want it softer? Melt it and add a little turpentine. I use mine straight from the bee for sewing, never found the need to alter it.
IanW

[Magwitch]

You want it softer? Melt it and add a little turpentine. I use mine straight from the bee for sewing, never found the need to alter it.
IanW

[Magwitch]

You want it softer? Melt it and add a little turpentine. I use mine straight from the bee for sewing, never found the need to alter it.
IanW

[Phillip Allen]

I use beeswax as a base for bullet lube (cast bullets) and have combined the wax with slick 50 general purpose grease. It's hard to combine due to the big difference between melting temps. I made such a huge amount the one time I did this that I'm still using it ten years later so proportions escape me but its more wax than grease for use in the mechanical lubricator (It is still hard to form with the fingers at room temps but adding more grease would soften it more). I need to make more soon so will keep proportions in mind for future reference.
Email me if you like and it will help to remind me to start that project soon and send you the results.

[ 01-25-2005, 06:13 AM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

[Phillip Allen]

I use beeswax as a base for bullet lube (cast bullets) and have combined the wax with slick 50 general purpose grease. It's hard to combine due to the big difference between melting temps. I made such a huge amount the one time I did this that I'm still using it ten years later so proportions escape me but its more wax than grease for use in the mechanical lubricator (It is still hard to form with the fingers at room temps but adding more grease would soften it more). I need to make more soon so will keep proportions in mind for future reference.
Email me if you like and it will help to remind me to start that project soon and send you the results.

[ 01-25-2005, 06:13 AM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

[Phillip Allen]

I use beeswax as a base for bullet lube (cast bullets) and have combined the wax with slick 50 general purpose grease. It's hard to combine due to the big difference between melting temps. I made such a huge amount the one time I did this that I'm still using it ten years later so proportions escape me but its more wax than grease for use in the mechanical lubricator (It is still hard to form with the fingers at room temps but adding more grease would soften it more). I need to make more soon so will keep proportions in mind for future reference.
Email me if you like and it will help to remind me to start that project soon and send you the results.

[ 01-25-2005, 06:13 AM: Message edited by: Phillip Allen ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

Most of the solvent or oil-type products that would mix with beeswax tend to wick into the surrounding Dacron and will often eventually leave a 1/2" diameter oily stain around each needle hole. Wax that's as pure as possible seems to be the best bet - hand squeezed from real bees. :D

[Todd Bradshaw]

Most of the solvent or oil-type products that would mix with beeswax tend to wick into the surrounding Dacron and will often eventually leave a 1/2" diameter oily stain around each needle hole. Wax that's as pure as possible seems to be the best bet - hand squeezed from real bees. :D

[Todd Bradshaw]

Most of the solvent or oil-type products that would mix with beeswax tend to wick into the surrounding Dacron and will often eventually leave a 1/2" diameter oily stain around each needle hole. Wax that's as pure as possible seems to be the best bet - hand squeezed from real bees. :D

[Dave Fleming]

Plain old beeswax not the fancy stuff sold in those little disks but the kind you can buy on the internet or from a beekeeper in 1 or 5 lb blocks.
Pine Tar that black gooey smelly stuff you can get in a can from an animal feed store or the more expnsive Stockholm Tar from several marine supply houses.

Melt beeswax in ***Double Boiler*** when fully liquid check for little bits of stuff remove if possible. Have pine tar at room temp or warm from sitting in the sun.

For a 5 lb block add about a cup less so of pine tar to the wax. Proportions are not critical. Stir well and then immediately.
Pour into coffee cans or the can size of your choice. When fully cooled remove from can by cutting can with tin snips.

A bandsoar can be used to cut slices from the 'roll' or a hacksaw will do.

I use it to lubricate wood screw threads, wax sail twine, whipping thread and on screw threads of things that might sit out in the weather and sieze up from corrosion.
In the last use mentioned it No Way takes the place of locktite but is less messy than plain pine tar smeared on the threads and seems to work just as well.

Reasons for going to the trouble of making it?

1.Smells great!
2.Pine Tar seems to make the beeswax less brittle
or crumbly.
3.Works just fine for me.

[Dave Fleming]

Plain old beeswax not the fancy stuff sold in those little disks but the kind you can buy on the internet or from a beekeeper in 1 or 5 lb blocks.
Pine Tar that black gooey smelly stuff you can get in a can from an animal feed store or the more expnsive Stockholm Tar from several marine supply houses.

Melt beeswax in ***Double Boiler*** when fully liquid check for little bits of stuff remove if possible. Have pine tar at room temp or warm from sitting in the sun.

For a 5 lb block add about a cup less so of pine tar to the wax. Proportions are not critical. Stir well and then immediately.
Pour into coffee cans or the can size of your choice. When fully cooled remove from can by cutting can with tin snips.

A bandsoar can be used to cut slices from the 'roll' or a hacksaw will do.

I use it to lubricate wood screw threads, wax sail twine, whipping thread and on screw threads of things that might sit out in the weather and sieze up from corrosion.
In the last use mentioned it No Way takes the place of locktite but is less messy than plain pine tar smeared on the threads and seems to work just as well.

Reasons for going to the trouble of making it?

1.Smells great!
2.Pine Tar seems to make the beeswax less brittle
or crumbly.
3.Works just fine for me.

[Dave Fleming]

Plain old beeswax not the fancy stuff sold in those little disks but the kind you can buy on the internet or from a beekeeper in 1 or 5 lb blocks.
Pine Tar that black gooey smelly stuff you can get in a can from an animal feed store or the more expnsive Stockholm Tar from several marine supply houses.

Melt beeswax in ***Double Boiler*** when fully liquid check for little bits of stuff remove if possible. Have pine tar at room temp or warm from sitting in the sun.

For a 5 lb block add about a cup less so of pine tar to the wax. Proportions are not critical. Stir well and then immediately.
Pour into coffee cans or the can size of your choice. When fully cooled remove from can by cutting can with tin snips.

A bandsoar can be used to cut slices from the 'roll' or a hacksaw will do.

I use it to lubricate wood screw threads, wax sail twine, whipping thread and on screw threads of things that might sit out in the weather and sieze up from corrosion.
In the last use mentioned it No Way takes the place of locktite but is less messy than plain pine tar smeared on the threads and seems to work just as well.

Reasons for going to the trouble of making it?

1.Smells great!
2.Pine Tar seems to make the beeswax less brittle
or crumbly.
3.Works just fine for me.

[RonW]

The best thing in the world to soften and improve beeswax is lanolin. Use anti-hydrous lanolin, it looks just like beeswax but is softer and a lot greasier. The anti- has no water in and is pure. You only need to add 10 to 20% max.Lanolin comes from sheep wool and is debatable as to whether it is a greasy wax or a waxy grease. You should be able to get it at a drug store or have them order you some. Or instead you can mix in mineral oil, found everywhere and cheap. Use about 20 to 30 %. added to the beeswax. The only oil that is slicker then mineral oil is whale or sperm oil.
These are also very good bullet lubes, popular in the late 1800's when big buffalo guns ruled. I have shot these lubes for many years.

Oh yea, I always melted in the oven set at 225, if you melt on top of the stove, do use a double boiler, beeswax will blow up. Literally.

[ 01-25-2005, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: RonW ]

[RonW]

The best thing in the world to soften and improve beeswax is lanolin. Use anti-hydrous lanolin, it looks just like beeswax but is softer and a lot greasier. The anti- has no water in and is pure. You only need to add 10 to 20% max.Lanolin comes from sheep wool and is debatable as to whether it is a greasy wax or a waxy grease. You should be able to get it at a drug store or have them order you some. Or instead you can mix in mineral oil, found everywhere and cheap. Use about 20 to 30 %. added to the beeswax. The only oil that is slicker then mineral oil is whale or sperm oil.
These are also very good bullet lubes, popular in the late 1800's when big buffalo guns ruled. I have shot these lubes for many years.

Oh yea, I always melted in the oven set at 225, if you melt on top of the stove, do use a double boiler, beeswax will blow up. Literally.

[ 01-25-2005, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: RonW ]

[RonW]

The best thing in the world to soften and improve beeswax is lanolin. Use anti-hydrous lanolin, it looks just like beeswax but is softer and a lot greasier. The anti- has no water in and is pure. You only need to add 10 to 20% max.Lanolin comes from sheep wool and is debatable as to whether it is a greasy wax or a waxy grease. You should be able to get it at a drug store or have them order you some. Or instead you can mix in mineral oil, found everywhere and cheap. Use about 20 to 30 %. added to the beeswax. The only oil that is slicker then mineral oil is whale or sperm oil.
These are also very good bullet lubes, popular in the late 1800's when big buffalo guns ruled. I have shot these lubes for many years.

Oh yea, I always melted in the oven set at 225, if you melt on top of the stove, do use a double boiler, beeswax will blow up. Literally.

[ 01-25-2005, 12:59 PM: Message edited by: RonW ]

[dmede]

anything that can be done to bees wax to make it a good lube for plane irons or other metal tool surfaces? I mean for use on the plane sole to improve pushing the plane over wood. or to lube a table saw surface to help with pushing stock through.

[ 01-25-2005, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[paladin]

Bear grease when rendered does not turn rancid and is a good substitute for sperm oil. i still have a little left from a looong time ago before twas ill eagle to import the stuff....also the sperm oil candles burn with little/no smoke or residue...bear grease was originally used as weapons and bullet lube in the old west. the sperm oil candles etc were still available when i left iceland and burn well in the candle lamps that raISE THE CANDLE AS IT BURNS.

[dmede]

anything that can be done to bees wax to make it a good lube for plane irons or other metal tool surfaces? I mean for use on the plane sole to improve pushing the plane over wood. or to lube a table saw surface to help with pushing stock through.

[ 01-25-2005, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[paladin]

Bear grease when rendered does not turn rancid and is a good substitute for sperm oil. i still have a little left from a looong time ago before twas ill eagle to import the stuff....also the sperm oil candles burn with little/no smoke or residue...bear grease was originally used as weapons and bullet lube in the old west. the sperm oil candles etc were still available when i left iceland and burn well in the candle lamps that raISE THE CANDLE AS IT BURNS.

[dmede]

anything that can be done to bees wax to make it a good lube for plane irons or other metal tool surfaces? I mean for use on the plane sole to improve pushing the plane over wood. or to lube a table saw surface to help with pushing stock through.

[ 01-25-2005, 01:24 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[paladin]

Bear grease when rendered does not turn rancid and is a good substitute for sperm oil. i still have a little left from a looong time ago before twas ill eagle to import the stuff....also the sperm oil candles burn with little/no smoke or residue...bear grease was originally used as weapons and bullet lube in the old west. the sperm oil candles etc were still available when i left iceland and burn well in the candle lamps that raISE THE CANDLE AS IT BURNS.

[RonW]

Actually I still have a little bottle of sperm oil. The real stuff. I have also had bears oil and tallow. The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. It was sold to watch makers as a lubricant, deemed to be the best and not collect dirt like other lubes.
But to soften and improve beeswax, you can't do any better then pure lanolin.
As a oil for lubrication, mineral oil ranks right up there with the best.A machinist hand book will tell you this.

[RonW]

Actually I still have a little bottle of sperm oil. The real stuff. I have also had bears oil and tallow. The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. It was sold to watch makers as a lubricant, deemed to be the best and not collect dirt like other lubes.
But to soften and improve beeswax, you can't do any better then pure lanolin.
As a oil for lubrication, mineral oil ranks right up there with the best.A machinist hand book will tell you this.

[RonW]

Actually I still have a little bottle of sperm oil. The real stuff. I have also had bears oil and tallow. The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. It was sold to watch makers as a lubricant, deemed to be the best and not collect dirt like other lubes.
But to soften and improve beeswax, you can't do any better then pure lanolin.
As a oil for lubrication, mineral oil ranks right up there with the best.A machinist hand book will tell you this.

[alteran]

Originally posted by RonW:
The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. Where could I buy some?
Or if it isn't available do you know where I could find me a woman who would trap the ground hog and render some out?
I wouldn't be thinking of sleeping with this ground hog rendering woman mind you, I'd just want her for this kitchen work. smile.gif

[alteran]

Originally posted by RonW:
The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. Where could I buy some?
Or if it isn't available do you know where I could find me a woman who would trap the ground hog and render some out?
I wouldn't be thinking of sleeping with this ground hog rendering woman mind you, I'd just want her for this kitchen work. smile.gif

[alteran]

Originally posted by RonW:
The best and most prized of the 1800's was believe it or not, was rendering down ground hog's oil. Where could I buy some?
Or if it isn't available do you know where I could find me a woman who would trap the ground hog and render some out?
I wouldn't be thinking of sleeping with this ground hog rendering woman mind you, I'd just want her for this kitchen work. smile.gif

[Phillip Allen]

Ya gotta shoot yer own ground hogs. Before I grew up in my late thirties...actually while still in my teens, I used to shoot the little fellas at great distances as a kind of destructive-teenager-sport...as much as a quarter mile away...but I out grew that stuff a long time ago.

[Phillip Allen]

Ya gotta shoot yer own ground hogs. Before I grew up in my late thirties...actually while still in my teens, I used to shoot the little fellas at great distances as a kind of destructive-teenager-sport...as much as a quarter mile away...but I out grew that stuff a long time ago.

[Phillip Allen]

Ya gotta shoot yer own ground hogs. Before I grew up in my late thirties...actually while still in my teens, I used to shoot the little fellas at great distances as a kind of destructive-teenager-sport...as much as a quarter mile away...but I out grew that stuff a long time ago.

[Bob Cleek]

I use beeswax for sewing and whipping where appropriate, but really just because I have some that lives in my ditty bag. For other uses, particularly lubing threads, there's a commonly available, CHEAP, option: TOILET SEALS! Yep, toilet seals... those soft wax donuts that go between the soil pipe and the china bowl. (What's going to leak and rot the bathroom subfloor!) You can buy them at any hardware store. I always have one laying around. Leave the wrapping on the bottom and the ring shape makes it easy to grab or hold onto when screwing... er... when twisting threaded fasteners. You can stick a whole handfull of screws into it and the thing will not only lube them, but hold them for you while you work.

[Bob Cleek]

I use beeswax for sewing and whipping where appropriate, but really just because I have some that lives in my ditty bag. For other uses, particularly lubing threads, there's a commonly available, CHEAP, option: TOILET SEALS! Yep, toilet seals... those soft wax donuts that go between the soil pipe and the china bowl. (What's going to leak and rot the bathroom subfloor!) You can buy them at any hardware store. I always have one laying around. Leave the wrapping on the bottom and the ring shape makes it easy to grab or hold onto when screwing... er... when twisting threaded fasteners. You can stick a whole handfull of screws into it and the thing will not only lube them, but hold them for you while you work.

[Bob Cleek]

I use beeswax for sewing and whipping where appropriate, but really just because I have some that lives in my ditty bag. For other uses, particularly lubing threads, there's a commonly available, CHEAP, option: TOILET SEALS! Yep, toilet seals... those soft wax donuts that go between the soil pipe and the china bowl. (What's going to leak and rot the bathroom subfloor!) You can buy them at any hardware store. I always have one laying around. Leave the wrapping on the bottom and the ring shape makes it easy to grab or hold onto when screwing... er... when twisting threaded fasteners. You can stick a whole handfull of screws into it and the thing will not only lube them, but hold them for you while you work.

[RonW]

Toilet wax rings, used to be just that, wax rings made from bees wax. A cheap and readily available source for good bees wax. But not no more.Some where around the late 70's they started mixing in parafin wax as a cheaper source of wax. Then by the mid 80's or there abouts, the wax ring changed to some kind of petrolium product. Possibly a petrolium by product, a lot like epoxy. Have heard but can't prove it, that the two where developed in the lab side by side. Might give more creedance to the thread epoxy is krapt. But anyhow, the beeswax toilet ring that we all grew up on, is a thing of the past. Gone, just like sperm oil.

[RonW]

Toilet wax rings, used to be just that, wax rings made from bees wax. A cheap and readily available source for good bees wax. But not no more.Some where around the late 70's they started mixing in parafin wax as a cheaper source of wax. Then by the mid 80's or there abouts, the wax ring changed to some kind of petrolium product. Possibly a petrolium by product, a lot like epoxy. Have heard but can't prove it, that the two where developed in the lab side by side. Might give more creedance to the thread epoxy is krapt. But anyhow, the beeswax toilet ring that we all grew up on, is a thing of the past. Gone, just like sperm oil.

[RonW]

Toilet wax rings, used to be just that, wax rings made from bees wax. A cheap and readily available source for good bees wax. But not no more.Some where around the late 70's they started mixing in parafin wax as a cheaper source of wax. Then by the mid 80's or there abouts, the wax ring changed to some kind of petrolium product. Possibly a petrolium by product, a lot like epoxy. Have heard but can't prove it, that the two where developed in the lab side by side. Might give more creedance to the thread epoxy is krapt. But anyhow, the beeswax toilet ring that we all grew up on, is a thing of the past. Gone, just like sperm oil.

[ssor]

I like to mix bees wax and pine tar and pour it on nylon or polyester cordage in my kitchen oven at about 250 degrees f. A piece of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet catches the excess and you can unlay the cord if you need smaller stuff. This method is one I have used for several years. Toilet bowl rings are very sticky at room tempertures and have never been my first choice for wax for any purpose other then the design purpose. Parafin in a petroleum product, as is
"vasoline", no refinement necessary, first decovered on the drilling pipe in sweet oil wells. It is possible to impregnate an entire roll or spool of cordage at one time by soaking the wax in at low oven temperatures for a couple of hours. Masons twine, in nylon, sold every-where is prone to unlay and doesn't hold knots well but well waxed with beeswax/pinetar it is superb for whipping rope ends and any sewing project and it doesn't bleed.

[ssor]

I like to mix bees wax and pine tar and pour it on nylon or polyester cordage in my kitchen oven at about 250 degrees f. A piece of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet catches the excess and you can unlay the cord if you need smaller stuff. This method is one I have used for several years. Toilet bowl rings are very sticky at room tempertures and have never been my first choice for wax for any purpose other then the design purpose. Parafin in a petroleum product, as is
"vasoline", no refinement necessary, first decovered on the drilling pipe in sweet oil wells. It is possible to impregnate an entire roll or spool of cordage at one time by soaking the wax in at low oven temperatures for a couple of hours. Masons twine, in nylon, sold every-where is prone to unlay and doesn't hold knots well but well waxed with beeswax/pinetar it is superb for whipping rope ends and any sewing project and it doesn't bleed.

[ssor]

I like to mix bees wax and pine tar and pour it on nylon or polyester cordage in my kitchen oven at about 250 degrees f. A piece of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet catches the excess and you can unlay the cord if you need smaller stuff. This method is one I have used for several years. Toilet bowl rings are very sticky at room tempertures and have never been my first choice for wax for any purpose other then the design purpose. Parafin in a petroleum product, as is
"vasoline", no refinement necessary, first decovered on the drilling pipe in sweet oil wells. It is possible to impregnate an entire roll or spool of cordage at one time by soaking the wax in at low oven temperatures for a couple of hours. Masons twine, in nylon, sold every-where is prone to unlay and doesn't hold knots well but well waxed with beeswax/pinetar it is superb for whipping rope ends and any sewing project and it doesn't bleed.

[sr. jigaboni]

Wow, may the waxing never wane! ;)

I been using plain old beeswax from a beekeeper I know. I cook it and make sure there ain't no stuff in it, then pour it into my bro-in-laws old snuff cans to harden in a nice puck shape.

I was after conditioning recipes because I've read about them in several books. I have no problems with straight wax, just problems with curiosity.

Thanks for the input. Also, I spose I should have said I'm sewing just cotton; duck, canvas and nice bed sheets.

And I already use the toilet ring screw trick, but would hate to have that stuff rolled down the front of MY pants leg. Pine tar all rubbed into your pants, though... Hmmmm, pine tar.

Also, the roll of mason's twine soaked in wax and oil sounds nice.

Thanks againg all.

[sr. jigaboni]

Wow, may the waxing never wane! ;)

I been using plain old beeswax from a beekeeper I know. I cook it and make sure there ain't no stuff in it, then pour it into my bro-in-laws old snuff cans to harden in a nice puck shape.

I was after conditioning recipes because I've read about them in several books. I have no problems with straight wax, just problems with curiosity.

Thanks for the input. Also, I spose I should have said I'm sewing just cotton; duck, canvas and nice bed sheets.

And I already use the toilet ring screw trick, but would hate to have that stuff rolled down the front of MY pants leg. Pine tar all rubbed into your pants, though... Hmmmm, pine tar.

Also, the roll of mason's twine soaked in wax and oil sounds nice.

Thanks againg all.

[sr. jigaboni]

Wow, may the waxing never wane! ;)

I been using plain old beeswax from a beekeeper I know. I cook it and make sure there ain't no stuff in it, then pour it into my bro-in-laws old snuff cans to harden in a nice puck shape.

I was after conditioning recipes because I've read about them in several books. I have no problems with straight wax, just problems with curiosity.

Thanks for the input. Also, I spose I should have said I'm sewing just cotton; duck, canvas and nice bed sheets.

And I already use the toilet ring screw trick, but would hate to have that stuff rolled down the front of MY pants leg. Pine tar all rubbed into your pants, though... Hmmmm, pine tar.

Also, the roll of mason's twine soaked in wax and oil sounds nice.

Thanks againg all.

[PeterSibley]

Chop your beeswax into lumps ,soak in turps for as long as it takes to become a thick paste....about 1 wax to 2 or 3 turps.The very best thing for stopping rust on steel tools .Far ,far better than WD 40 .

[PeterSibley]

Chop your beeswax into lumps ,soak in turps for as long as it takes to become a thick paste....about 1 wax to 2 or 3 turps.The very best thing for stopping rust on steel tools .Far ,far better than WD 40 .

[PeterSibley]

Chop your beeswax into lumps ,soak in turps for as long as it takes to become a thick paste....about 1 wax to 2 or 3 turps.The very best thing for stopping rust on steel tools .Far ,far better than WD 40 .

[edsr]

alteran - ROFLMAO - smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

edsr

[edsr]

alteran - ROFLMAO - smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

edsr

[edsr]

alteran - ROFLMAO - smile.gif smile.gif smile.gif

edsr