bosun's chair

[chergui]

Can anyone recommend a good bosuns chair? I have a winch on the mast that I might be able to use. I wonder, what winch do you all use when going aloft? I have a Mast Mate nylon flexible nylon ladder (http://www.mastmate.com) but I found it difficult and precarious to climb up. It was ok holding onto the shrouds when climbing up but once I got to the spreaders I had nothing but the flimsy ladder and mast to hold onto. It would also be difficult to hold on and do work on top of the mast, as I need to do.

[chergui]

Can anyone recommend a good bosuns chair? I have a winch on the mast that I might be able to use. I wonder, what winch do you all use when going aloft? I have a Mast Mate nylon flexible nylon ladder (http://www.mastmate.com) but I found it difficult and precarious to climb up. It was ok holding onto the shrouds when climbing up but once I got to the spreaders I had nothing but the flimsy ladder and mast to hold onto. It would also be difficult to hold on and do work on top of the mast, as I need to do.

[chergui]

Can anyone recommend a good bosuns chair? I have a winch on the mast that I might be able to use. I wonder, what winch do you all use when going aloft? I have a Mast Mate nylon flexible nylon ladder (http://www.mastmate.com) but I found it difficult and precarious to climb up. It was ok holding onto the shrouds when climbing up but once I got to the spreaders I had nothing but the flimsy ladder and mast to hold onto. It would also be difficult to hold on and do work on top of the mast, as I need to do.

[Ian McColgin]

There are many choises depending on the expected use, whether you will have deck crew, and whether you'll be aloft in arduous conditions or calm only.

I bring my own rig when crewing on long races on other boats. It's adaptable for almost any situation but let's back up.

The basic bo's'n's chair - plank with two holes at each end and two loops that cross under and come to a siezed eye about at heart level - has much to recommend it, especially if you're doing tedious long jobs in a calm spot and if you've a good deck crew and most especially if you give it a think layer of closed cell foam both for grip and for comfort. You really have to work terribly hard to fall out of the thing. It's incredibly easy to tie off on the riser lines across your back and down between your legs in front if you've the smallest doubt.

That said, I like a system that gives great security and can be handled solo. Now common, what I developed is what started in mountaineering and got really good by the '60's.

The whillens style sit-harness is a start. Properly fitted this give incredibly mobility aloft and you'll not come out. I've even bounced back from a mast and done what look like ariel cartwheels. Lovely.

The harness, however, is a bit uncomfortable for long jobs as the feet go to sleep. Rather than a modified chair with what amounts to nylon mesh diaper, I like to add a chest harness - any of the figure eight behind the back or larikis types.

I have a short safety line off that harness anyway, and I feed the hoist that is attached to a sit harness under the chest harness. This allows me to relax back to about 30 degrees, putting much of my body weight on my back and I can work in great comfort. For climbing, I assume a more verticle position.

For solo climbing, I use jummar type ascenders but I rig with a variation. Usually one goes up a fixed rope with these, as the bottom must be fast. It's work and, as you're mostly on a hallyard, you essentially double the strain on that rig, which should put you no where near the safty limits but still . . .

I rig from a hallyard with the hoist attached to my sit-harness and I put the ascenders - each has a foot loop and one also has a waist loop - on the fall. The fall goes down to deck level and is passed through a block to return up. You may have to make a salvagee to hold that on the mast if there's nothing around the partners. The fall terminates coming up and being secured at the sit harness.

Now, you can see that as you climb the work you do with the ascenders is only half what it takes to move up. And, you are essentially taking the slack aloft with you. Sometimes you'll need to trim up on the fall to take out slack the line's streatch has made. But it's easy as anywhere you stop, the ascender loop to the sit harness will hold you even if you take the weight off your feet.

It's totally wonderful for coming down. Sit on the loop while easing the fall so there's a bit of slack. Then take a bight of the fall under the ascender that has the waist loop and pass it through a descending ring you've hooked on. Get a mountaineering manual if you don't know what I'm saying here. Lastly, transferr the strain the the descending ring and holding with one hand, take off the purely foot loop ascender and unlock the other. Now rapel down and have fun.

In heavey conditions, I make a safety line of a selvagee around the mast (have to move it at each spreader but what the hay) which I can keep just open in my lap and knees, which are tightly around the mast anyway.

While not impossible, it's hard to solo climb with wire hallyards and reel type winches. If you are so rigged and will not change, then make sure that the deck crew is strong enough to bring you down as well as up, fully understands the strain and especially the risk as the break is released for the descent, and lashes the handle as well as sets the break when you're up there. I have experienced a reel winch break failure and you will too.

Often it is nice to use a second hallyard or even topping lift if huskey as a safety. I like to tend that myself.

I am of the opinion, based on painful experience, that even fixed mast steps are nigh on to useless if the boat is jumping about. There is a reason ladders have two uprights with rungs in a plane normal to the slope. With mast steps, your body weight is in exactly the wrong place if the boat's heeled at all.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

There are many choises depending on the expected use, whether you will have deck crew, and whether you'll be aloft in arduous conditions or calm only.

I bring my own rig when crewing on long races on other boats. It's adaptable for almost any situation but let's back up.

The basic bo's'n's chair - plank with two holes at each end and two loops that cross under and come to a siezed eye about at heart level - has much to recommend it, especially if you're doing tedious long jobs in a calm spot and if you've a good deck crew and most especially if you give it a think layer of closed cell foam both for grip and for comfort. You really have to work terribly hard to fall out of the thing. It's incredibly easy to tie off on the riser lines across your back and down between your legs in front if you've the smallest doubt.

That said, I like a system that gives great security and can be handled solo. Now common, what I developed is what started in mountaineering and got really good by the '60's.

The whillens style sit-harness is a start. Properly fitted this give incredibly mobility aloft and you'll not come out. I've even bounced back from a mast and done what look like ariel cartwheels. Lovely.

The harness, however, is a bit uncomfortable for long jobs as the feet go to sleep. Rather than a modified chair with what amounts to nylon mesh diaper, I like to add a chest harness - any of the figure eight behind the back or larikis types.

I have a short safety line off that harness anyway, and I feed the hoist that is attached to a sit harness under the chest harness. This allows me to relax back to about 30 degrees, putting much of my body weight on my back and I can work in great comfort. For climbing, I assume a more verticle position.

For solo climbing, I use jummar type ascenders but I rig with a variation. Usually one goes up a fixed rope with these, as the bottom must be fast. It's work and, as you're mostly on a hallyard, you essentially double the strain on that rig, which should put you no where near the safty limits but still . . .

I rig from a hallyard with the hoist attached to my sit-harness and I put the ascenders - each has a foot loop and one also has a waist loop - on the fall. The fall goes down to deck level and is passed through a block to return up. You may have to make a salvagee to hold that on the mast if there's nothing around the partners. The fall terminates coming up and being secured at the sit harness.

Now, you can see that as you climb the work you do with the ascenders is only half what it takes to move up. And, you are essentially taking the slack aloft with you. Sometimes you'll need to trim up on the fall to take out slack the line's streatch has made. But it's easy as anywhere you stop, the ascender loop to the sit harness will hold you even if you take the weight off your feet.

It's totally wonderful for coming down. Sit on the loop while easing the fall so there's a bit of slack. Then take a bight of the fall under the ascender that has the waist loop and pass it through a descending ring you've hooked on. Get a mountaineering manual if you don't know what I'm saying here. Lastly, transferr the strain the the descending ring and holding with one hand, take off the purely foot loop ascender and unlock the other. Now rapel down and have fun.

In heavey conditions, I make a safety line of a selvagee around the mast (have to move it at each spreader but what the hay) which I can keep just open in my lap and knees, which are tightly around the mast anyway.

While not impossible, it's hard to solo climb with wire hallyards and reel type winches. If you are so rigged and will not change, then make sure that the deck crew is strong enough to bring you down as well as up, fully understands the strain and especially the risk as the break is released for the descent, and lashes the handle as well as sets the break when you're up there. I have experienced a reel winch break failure and you will too.

Often it is nice to use a second hallyard or even topping lift if huskey as a safety. I like to tend that myself.

I am of the opinion, based on painful experience, that even fixed mast steps are nigh on to useless if the boat is jumping about. There is a reason ladders have two uprights with rungs in a plane normal to the slope. With mast steps, your body weight is in exactly the wrong place if the boat's heeled at all.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

There are many choises depending on the expected use, whether you will have deck crew, and whether you'll be aloft in arduous conditions or calm only.

I bring my own rig when crewing on long races on other boats. It's adaptable for almost any situation but let's back up.

The basic bo's'n's chair - plank with two holes at each end and two loops that cross under and come to a siezed eye about at heart level - has much to recommend it, especially if you're doing tedious long jobs in a calm spot and if you've a good deck crew and most especially if you give it a think layer of closed cell foam both for grip and for comfort. You really have to work terribly hard to fall out of the thing. It's incredibly easy to tie off on the riser lines across your back and down between your legs in front if you've the smallest doubt.

That said, I like a system that gives great security and can be handled solo. Now common, what I developed is what started in mountaineering and got really good by the '60's.

The whillens style sit-harness is a start. Properly fitted this give incredibly mobility aloft and you'll not come out. I've even bounced back from a mast and done what look like ariel cartwheels. Lovely.

The harness, however, is a bit uncomfortable for long jobs as the feet go to sleep. Rather than a modified chair with what amounts to nylon mesh diaper, I like to add a chest harness - any of the figure eight behind the back or larikis types.

I have a short safety line off that harness anyway, and I feed the hoist that is attached to a sit harness under the chest harness. This allows me to relax back to about 30 degrees, putting much of my body weight on my back and I can work in great comfort. For climbing, I assume a more verticle position.

For solo climbing, I use jummar type ascenders but I rig with a variation. Usually one goes up a fixed rope with these, as the bottom must be fast. It's work and, as you're mostly on a hallyard, you essentially double the strain on that rig, which should put you no where near the safty limits but still . . .

I rig from a hallyard with the hoist attached to my sit-harness and I put the ascenders - each has a foot loop and one also has a waist loop - on the fall. The fall goes down to deck level and is passed through a block to return up. You may have to make a salvagee to hold that on the mast if there's nothing around the partners. The fall terminates coming up and being secured at the sit harness.

Now, you can see that as you climb the work you do with the ascenders is only half what it takes to move up. And, you are essentially taking the slack aloft with you. Sometimes you'll need to trim up on the fall to take out slack the line's streatch has made. But it's easy as anywhere you stop, the ascender loop to the sit harness will hold you even if you take the weight off your feet.

It's totally wonderful for coming down. Sit on the loop while easing the fall so there's a bit of slack. Then take a bight of the fall under the ascender that has the waist loop and pass it through a descending ring you've hooked on. Get a mountaineering manual if you don't know what I'm saying here. Lastly, transferr the strain the the descending ring and holding with one hand, take off the purely foot loop ascender and unlock the other. Now rapel down and have fun.

In heavey conditions, I make a safety line of a selvagee around the mast (have to move it at each spreader but what the hay) which I can keep just open in my lap and knees, which are tightly around the mast anyway.

While not impossible, it's hard to solo climb with wire hallyards and reel type winches. If you are so rigged and will not change, then make sure that the deck crew is strong enough to bring you down as well as up, fully understands the strain and especially the risk as the break is released for the descent, and lashes the handle as well as sets the break when you're up there. I have experienced a reel winch break failure and you will too.

Often it is nice to use a second hallyard or even topping lift if huskey as a safety. I like to tend that myself.

I am of the opinion, based on painful experience, that even fixed mast steps are nigh on to useless if the boat is jumping about. There is a reason ladders have two uprights with rungs in a plane normal to the slope. With mast steps, your body weight is in exactly the wrong place if the boat's heeled at all.

G'luck

[Nicholas Carey]

What Ian said. But…

One thing to keep in mind WRT climbing gear used in a marine environment: The metal bits are [usually] aluminium alloy.

Aluminum tends towards corrosion in a saltwater environment.

Make sure you (A) rinse it well after each use and (B) check well for corrosion before use.

A 30- or 40-foot fall is nothing to sneeze at.

[Nicholas Carey]

What Ian said. But…

One thing to keep in mind WRT climbing gear used in a marine environment: The metal bits are [usually] aluminium alloy.

Aluminum tends towards corrosion in a saltwater environment.

Make sure you (A) rinse it well after each use and (B) check well for corrosion before use.

A 30- or 40-foot fall is nothing to sneeze at.

[Nicholas Carey]

What Ian said. But…

One thing to keep in mind WRT climbing gear used in a marine environment: The metal bits are [usually] aluminium alloy.

Aluminum tends towards corrosion in a saltwater environment.

Make sure you (A) rinse it well after each use and (B) check well for corrosion before use.

A 30- or 40-foot fall is nothing to sneeze at.

[Mike Field]

.
Thanks Ian. Fantastic. (Is it too much to ask for a photo or three?)
.

[Mike Field]

.
Thanks Ian. Fantastic. (Is it too much to ask for a photo or three?)
.

[Mike Field]

.
Thanks Ian. Fantastic. (Is it too much to ask for a photo or three?)
.

[Ian McColgin]

I keep meaning to make a video. There's a nifty variation I saw at the Maine Boat Builders' Show a couple of years back. Essentially puts two foot loops on one jummar. It's a tad slower but incredibly comfortable.

[Ian McColgin]

I keep meaning to make a video. There's a nifty variation I saw at the Maine Boat Builders' Show a couple of years back. Essentially puts two foot loops on one jummar. It's a tad slower but incredibly comfortable.

[Ian McColgin]

I keep meaning to make a video. There's a nifty variation I saw at the Maine Boat Builders' Show a couple of years back. Essentially puts two foot loops on one jummar. It's a tad slower but incredibly comfortable.

[chergui]

Yes thanks. This is very helpful. Sounds like the whillens style would suit my purposes... although it would be very nice to be able to get up there by myself. For now though I just need to get up in calm weather at the dock and do some work. If anyone has bought a whillens style off the shelf let me know which ones are good or not so good.

[chergui]

Yes thanks. This is very helpful. Sounds like the whillens style would suit my purposes... although it would be very nice to be able to get up there by myself. For now though I just need to get up in calm weather at the dock and do some work. If anyone has bought a whillens style off the shelf let me know which ones are good or not so good.

[chergui]

Yes thanks. This is very helpful. Sounds like the whillens style would suit my purposes... although it would be very nice to be able to get up there by myself. For now though I just need to get up in calm weather at the dock and do some work. If anyone has bought a whillens style off the shelf let me know which ones are good or not so good.

[Murray Campbell]

...a note for anyone who does go the mountaineering gear route that ian has described..

the first time out it's worth practicing the transition between ascent and rappel a few times while you're just a few feet off the deck...you'll appreciate it being second nature and not having to figure it out for the first time at the mast head

the girlfriend will not let you forget it if she has to call the fire department :D

[Murray Campbell]

...a note for anyone who does go the mountaineering gear route that ian has described..

the first time out it's worth practicing the transition between ascent and rappel a few times while you're just a few feet off the deck...you'll appreciate it being second nature and not having to figure it out for the first time at the mast head

the girlfriend will not let you forget it if she has to call the fire department :D

[Murray Campbell]

...a note for anyone who does go the mountaineering gear route that ian has described..

the first time out it's worth practicing the transition between ascent and rappel a few times while you're just a few feet off the deck...you'll appreciate it being second nature and not having to figure it out for the first time at the mast head

the girlfriend will not let you forget it if she has to call the fire department :D

[chergui]

A question about the winch if I have deck crew hauling me up in a whillens style harness.. Can I use the small winch on the mast that is used for the jib? It's a small winch (Murray I think) with one of those bronze bottom lock in type handles. The boat is 24' so the winch is sized accordingly. I could cleat the main or jib halyard I use to ascend either on the mast cleat or maybe bring it up to the foredeck to a bigger cleat, or both.

[chergui]

A question about the winch if I have deck crew hauling me up in a whillens style harness.. Can I use the small winch on the mast that is used for the jib? It's a small winch (Murray I think) with one of those bronze bottom lock in type handles. The boat is 24' so the winch is sized accordingly. I could cleat the main or jib halyard I use to ascend either on the mast cleat or maybe bring it up to the foredeck to a bigger cleat, or both.

[chergui]

A question about the winch if I have deck crew hauling me up in a whillens style harness.. Can I use the small winch on the mast that is used for the jib? It's a small winch (Murray I think) with one of those bronze bottom lock in type handles. The boat is 24' so the winch is sized accordingly. I could cleat the main or jib halyard I use to ascend either on the mast cleat or maybe bring it up to the foredeck to a bigger cleat, or both.

[uncas]

You probably could...Usually, regardless as to the type of chair, the guy going up is helping a lot...The chair is more support during the hand over hand routine...Until some work needs to be done...Thhen you can cleet the line after wrapping it around the winch...
With a 24' The guy going up is gonna be fairly light anyway...

[uncas]

You probably could...Usually, regardless as to the type of chair, the guy going up is helping a lot...The chair is more support during the hand over hand routine...Until some work needs to be done...Thhen you can cleet the line after wrapping it around the winch...
With a 24' The guy going up is gonna be fairly light anyway...

[uncas]

You probably could...Usually, regardless as to the type of chair, the guy going up is helping a lot...The chair is more support during the hand over hand routine...Until some work needs to be done...Thhen you can cleet the line after wrapping it around the winch...
With a 24' The guy going up is gonna be fairly light anyway...

[George.]

My advice - always wear sailing gloves when climbing up the rigging. If something goes wrong, a gloved hand is much better able to hang on to the nearest line or stay, and save you from going down the fast way.

[Ian McColgin]

As I hinted at the start, the good old fashioned plank type chair that you can make for about nothing is just tiddley for calm jobs where you've a deck crew.

It is also surprisingly easy to either haul yourself up or considerably assist you deck crew as you're only pulling half yourself, so to speak.

If you're an energetic sort, you might tend to lift yourself out of the chair. That's where the improvised seat belt comes in handy.

It's a little hard to hoist someone on a fiber hallyard on a normal barrel winch as you need to tail the winch. No problem if two deckies. If just one, the person being hauled up will need to help a bit and will need to hold fast while the deckie gets a new grip every couple of feet.

Self-tailing winches solve this but the Murry does not as you cannot wind that much line up on the winch.

I'd always cleat off on a cleat seperate from the winch for safety.

One interesting and often overlooked problem with going solo is line tending. Unless you bring it back to your harness or chair, you'll have a mess on deck. I was doing some work at the top of Goblin's 65' mainmast when some retards in a power boat circled me at about half throttle to see what would happen. I was irritated when they left, finished the job, and then got more irritated when I found that somehow the fall of the hallyard I was on had somehow fallen off the coachroof and fouled around some belaying pins on the shrouds. I had to haul myself out of the chair and shinney down.

So, if you can't get the line around a pully, at least pass it loosely under the boom or something.

[George.]

My advice - always wear sailing gloves when climbing up the rigging. If something goes wrong, a gloved hand is much better able to hang on to the nearest line or stay, and save you from going down the fast way.

[Ian McColgin]

As I hinted at the start, the good old fashioned plank type chair that you can make for about nothing is just tiddley for calm jobs where you've a deck crew.

It is also surprisingly easy to either haul yourself up or considerably assist you deck crew as you're only pulling half yourself, so to speak.

If you're an energetic sort, you might tend to lift yourself out of the chair. That's where the improvised seat belt comes in handy.

It's a little hard to hoist someone on a fiber hallyard on a normal barrel winch as you need to tail the winch. No problem if two deckies. If just one, the person being hauled up will need to help a bit and will need to hold fast while the deckie gets a new grip every couple of feet.

Self-tailing winches solve this but the Murry does not as you cannot wind that much line up on the winch.

I'd always cleat off on a cleat seperate from the winch for safety.

One interesting and often overlooked problem with going solo is line tending. Unless you bring it back to your harness or chair, you'll have a mess on deck. I was doing some work at the top of Goblin's 65' mainmast when some retards in a power boat circled me at about half throttle to see what would happen. I was irritated when they left, finished the job, and then got more irritated when I found that somehow the fall of the hallyard I was on had somehow fallen off the coachroof and fouled around some belaying pins on the shrouds. I had to haul myself out of the chair and shinney down.

So, if you can't get the line around a pully, at least pass it loosely under the boom or something.

[George.]

My advice - always wear sailing gloves when climbing up the rigging. If something goes wrong, a gloved hand is much better able to hang on to the nearest line or stay, and save you from going down the fast way.

[Ian McColgin]

As I hinted at the start, the good old fashioned plank type chair that you can make for about nothing is just tiddley for calm jobs where you've a deck crew.

It is also surprisingly easy to either haul yourself up or considerably assist you deck crew as you're only pulling half yourself, so to speak.

If you're an energetic sort, you might tend to lift yourself out of the chair. That's where the improvised seat belt comes in handy.

It's a little hard to hoist someone on a fiber hallyard on a normal barrel winch as you need to tail the winch. No problem if two deckies. If just one, the person being hauled up will need to help a bit and will need to hold fast while the deckie gets a new grip every couple of feet.

Self-tailing winches solve this but the Murry does not as you cannot wind that much line up on the winch.

I'd always cleat off on a cleat seperate from the winch for safety.

One interesting and often overlooked problem with going solo is line tending. Unless you bring it back to your harness or chair, you'll have a mess on deck. I was doing some work at the top of Goblin's 65' mainmast when some retards in a power boat circled me at about half throttle to see what would happen. I was irritated when they left, finished the job, and then got more irritated when I found that somehow the fall of the hallyard I was on had somehow fallen off the coachroof and fouled around some belaying pins on the shrouds. I had to haul myself out of the chair and shinney down.

So, if you can't get the line around a pully, at least pass it loosely under the boom or something.

[uncas]

Most certainly....
Good suggestion and should have mentioned it...Actually surprised someone else didn't.

[uncas]

Most certainly....
Good suggestion and should have mentioned it...Actually surprised someone else didn't.

[uncas]

Most certainly....
Good suggestion and should have mentioned it...Actually surprised someone else didn't.

[Hwyl]

It's probably not relevant here. A warning just in case: On big boats the fall of the halyard can weigh more than the person going up the mast, so once you are about a 100' of the deck you keep accelerating upwards. It happened to me---scary!

The solution is to tie a retrieval line to the bosun's chair or the tail of the halyard as Ian suggested (in my case it was a wire halyard so the tail thing would not have worked).

[Hwyl]

It's probably not relevant here. A warning just in case: On big boats the fall of the halyard can weigh more than the person going up the mast, so once you are about a 100' of the deck you keep accelerating upwards. It happened to me---scary!

The solution is to tie a retrieval line to the bosun's chair or the tail of the halyard as Ian suggested (in my case it was a wire halyard so the tail thing would not have worked).

[Hwyl]

It's probably not relevant here. A warning just in case: On big boats the fall of the halyard can weigh more than the person going up the mast, so once you are about a 100' of the deck you keep accelerating upwards. It happened to me---scary!

The solution is to tie a retrieval line to the bosun's chair or the tail of the halyard as Ian suggested (in my case it was a wire halyard so the tail thing would not have worked).

[uncas]

Hwyl...What you say makes sense...Obviously have not had that problem on my wee 34'

[uncas]

Hwyl...What you say makes sense...Obviously have not had that problem on my wee 34'

[uncas]

Hwyl...What you say makes sense...Obviously have not had that problem on my wee 34'

[Hwyl]

It was this rig.

http://www.yachtsintra.com/gallery/1995/exterior_large4.jpg

[Hwyl]

It was this rig.

http://www.yachtsintra.com/gallery/1995/exterior_large4.jpg

[Hwyl]

It was this rig.

http://www.yachtsintra.com/gallery/1995/exterior_large4.jpg

[uncas]

JEEEZ... I hate heights...Damn am glad I have a small mast...

[uncas]

JEEEZ... I hate heights...Damn am glad I have a small mast...

[uncas]

JEEEZ... I hate heights...Damn am glad I have a small mast...

[Murray Campbell]

sweet....what a strange rig, i've never seen anything quite like that

[Murray Campbell]

sweet....what a strange rig, i've never seen anything quite like that

[Murray Campbell]

sweet....what a strange rig, i've never seen anything quite like that

[John B]

I use the simple plank chair as Ian recommends. and I have Murray winches. I often go up with the one halyard but the best for me is 2 halyards, 2 winches and 2 bodies looking after the skipper.
half the load for them to haul up. the reality is you spring up hauling on a halyard yourself and the winch hands just have to tail. So it then is a 3 way weight share and with a safety back up built in. In future, I'm doing the maintenance that way.
IE me in the chair, My wife on the primary halyard and a kid on the backup halyard.

[John B]

I use the simple plank chair as Ian recommends. and I have Murray winches. I often go up with the one halyard but the best for me is 2 halyards, 2 winches and 2 bodies looking after the skipper.
half the load for them to haul up. the reality is you spring up hauling on a halyard yourself and the winch hands just have to tail. So it then is a 3 way weight share and with a safety back up built in. In future, I'm doing the maintenance that way.
IE me in the chair, My wife on the primary halyard and a kid on the backup halyard.

[John B]

I use the simple plank chair as Ian recommends. and I have Murray winches. I often go up with the one halyard but the best for me is 2 halyards, 2 winches and 2 bodies looking after the skipper.
half the load for them to haul up. the reality is you spring up hauling on a halyard yourself and the winch hands just have to tail. So it then is a 3 way weight share and with a safety back up built in. In future, I'm doing the maintenance that way.
IE me in the chair, My wife on the primary halyard and a kid on the backup halyard.

[Terry Rhoads]

Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-Terry

[Terry Rhoads]

Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-Terry

[Terry Rhoads]

Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-Terry

[Dave Hadfield]

I use a plank chair and haul myself up. That means I attach the upper double block (with becket) of the tackle to the halyard, raise it to the masthead (while keeping the lower double block on deck), then get in the chair (which is suspended from that lower block), grab the fall of the line, and haul myself up. With friction, I think I'm hauling about 1/3 of my weight. Easy, if slow.

As Ian says, there's a lot of line on deck when you're up there. It can indeed get tangled. I always have someone on hand to sort that out for me. BUT, I like having total control of the up-and-down myself.

This whole process sure gets funny looks at a modern boatyard, but so what.

[Dave Hadfield]

I use a plank chair and haul myself up. That means I attach the upper double block (with becket) of the tackle to the halyard, raise it to the masthead (while keeping the lower double block on deck), then get in the chair (which is suspended from that lower block), grab the fall of the line, and haul myself up. With friction, I think I'm hauling about 1/3 of my weight. Easy, if slow.

As Ian says, there's a lot of line on deck when you're up there. It can indeed get tangled. I always have someone on hand to sort that out for me. BUT, I like having total control of the up-and-down myself.

This whole process sure gets funny looks at a modern boatyard, but so what.

[Dave Hadfield]

I use a plank chair and haul myself up. That means I attach the upper double block (with becket) of the tackle to the halyard, raise it to the masthead (while keeping the lower double block on deck), then get in the chair (which is suspended from that lower block), grab the fall of the line, and haul myself up. With friction, I think I'm hauling about 1/3 of my weight. Easy, if slow.

As Ian says, there's a lot of line on deck when you're up there. It can indeed get tangled. I always have someone on hand to sort that out for me. BUT, I like having total control of the up-and-down myself.

This whole process sure gets funny looks at a modern boatyard, but so what.

[Hughman]

On Bosun's chairs: rig some chafe gear on the edges so the mast varnish isn't damaged. A full padded seat does this nicely!

[ 03-08-2005, 09:00 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[Hughman]

On Bosun's chairs: rig some chafe gear on the edges so the mast varnish isn't damaged. A full padded seat does this nicely!

[ 03-08-2005, 09:00 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[Hughman]

On Bosun's chairs: rig some chafe gear on the edges so the mast varnish isn't damaged. A full padded seat does this nicely!

[ 03-08-2005, 09:00 PM: Message edited by: Hughman ]

[cdragon]

I used to spend alot of time in the chair on all kinds of boats. Best rig I ever used (and still do) is a Hood bosun's chair-hard seat, heavy dacron, with lower back support (crucial) and a crotch strap (also pretty crucial), and big, velcro-closure pockets either side for tools and sprays and tape etc. To this comfy and safe chair you rig a 3:1 (or 2:1 if you are particularly macho) block and tackle-preferably with nice, smooth running ball bearing blocks. Hoist the tackle up to where you want to go, cleat the halyard, climb in and haul away. A turn and 2 half hitches when you want to stay somewhere for a while, and you let yourself down-at your speed-when you are ready. The best, fastest, simplest, and safest method IMHO - I trust my hands more than someone who is perhaps only moderately accustomed to using a self tailing winch, or cleating off, or lowering etc...

[cdragon]

I used to spend alot of time in the chair on all kinds of boats. Best rig I ever used (and still do) is a Hood bosun's chair-hard seat, heavy dacron, with lower back support (crucial) and a crotch strap (also pretty crucial), and big, velcro-closure pockets either side for tools and sprays and tape etc. To this comfy and safe chair you rig a 3:1 (or 2:1 if you are particularly macho) block and tackle-preferably with nice, smooth running ball bearing blocks. Hoist the tackle up to where you want to go, cleat the halyard, climb in and haul away. A turn and 2 half hitches when you want to stay somewhere for a while, and you let yourself down-at your speed-when you are ready. The best, fastest, simplest, and safest method IMHO - I trust my hands more than someone who is perhaps only moderately accustomed to using a self tailing winch, or cleating off, or lowering etc...

[cdragon]

I used to spend alot of time in the chair on all kinds of boats. Best rig I ever used (and still do) is a Hood bosun's chair-hard seat, heavy dacron, with lower back support (crucial) and a crotch strap (also pretty crucial), and big, velcro-closure pockets either side for tools and sprays and tape etc. To this comfy and safe chair you rig a 3:1 (or 2:1 if you are particularly macho) block and tackle-preferably with nice, smooth running ball bearing blocks. Hoist the tackle up to where you want to go, cleat the halyard, climb in and haul away. A turn and 2 half hitches when you want to stay somewhere for a while, and you let yourself down-at your speed-when you are ready. The best, fastest, simplest, and safest method IMHO - I trust my hands more than someone who is perhaps only moderately accustomed to using a self tailing winch, or cleating off, or lowering etc...

[Ronin NW]

Ahh, what fun. I've been looking forward to going aloft as the weather gets nicer. :cool:

My chair is a larger-than-strictly neccessary pice of 1/2" plywood, covered on top with thin foam and carpet (mmm), with a half-round cutout to go around the mast and slit vinyl tubing protecting the edges all around. support lines from each of the 4 corners meet in a becket at chest height.

On my conveniently rigged gaff, I simply detach the lower block of the throat halyard and attach it to the bosun chair becket, and hoist myself up on the 2:1 purchase (not that that makes me particularly macho) as per cdragon's description.

Being the paranoid type however, I also use a climbing belay device attached to the chair becket: the fall from masthead goes through the belay device and then through a carabiner lower down on the chair (assuring that I won't accidentally raise up the fall in my own flailing and thus make the belay device inactive). After a few hand over hand hoists, I hang on with one hand and with the other pull the new excess line through the belay device. It's pretty solid as is, but when I get somewhere permanent I put two half hitches through another carabiner on the chair (the two loops overlapped trick can slip right inside the 'biner) and it's totally stable. For more redundancy I tie off to the mast and/or shrouds. Coming down just raise up the fall and you can vary the friction going through the belay device for a very gentle and controlled descent.

Belay devices like this (not the figure 8 type) can be had for $10-$15 if you're savvy about it.
http://images.rei.com/media/471034Ref.jpg

The fun bit comes when I have to get to the actual top of the mast, above the throat halyard block. Here the creative safety redundancies go on and on, as I climb out of the bosun chair (actually end up standing on it), relying upon a low-profile climbing harness with webbing straps and carabiners attached to everything available. That probably gets the most funny looks from the dock.

Call me twisted, but I rather like going up there (on a nice day) ...perhaps because it's not an emergency. Good view.

[Ronin NW]

Ahh, what fun. I've been looking forward to going aloft as the weather gets nicer. :cool:

My chair is a larger-than-strictly neccessary pice of 1/2" plywood, covered on top with thin foam and carpet (mmm), with a half-round cutout to go around the mast and slit vinyl tubing protecting the edges all around. support lines from each of the 4 corners meet in a becket at chest height.

On my conveniently rigged gaff, I simply detach the lower block of the throat halyard and attach it to the bosun chair becket, and hoist myself up on the 2:1 purchase (not that that makes me particularly macho) as per cdragon's description.

Being the paranoid type however, I also use a climbing belay device attached to the chair becket: the fall from masthead goes through the belay device and then through a carabiner lower down on the chair (assuring that I won't accidentally raise up the fall in my own flailing and thus make the belay device inactive). After a few hand over hand hoists, I hang on with one hand and with the other pull the new excess line through the belay device. It's pretty solid as is, but when I get somewhere permanent I put two half hitches through another carabiner on the chair (the two loops overlapped trick can slip right inside the 'biner) and it's totally stable. For more redundancy I tie off to the mast and/or shrouds. Coming down just raise up the fall and you can vary the friction going through the belay device for a very gentle and controlled descent.

Belay devices like this (not the figure 8 type) can be had for $10-$15 if you're savvy about it.
http://images.rei.com/media/471034Ref.jpg

The fun bit comes when I have to get to the actual top of the mast, above the throat halyard block. Here the creative safety redundancies go on and on, as I climb out of the bosun chair (actually end up standing on it), relying upon a low-profile climbing harness with webbing straps and carabiners attached to everything available. That probably gets the most funny looks from the dock.

Call me twisted, but I rather like going up there (on a nice day) ...perhaps because it's not an emergency. Good view.

[Ronin NW]

Ahh, what fun. I've been looking forward to going aloft as the weather gets nicer. :cool:

My chair is a larger-than-strictly neccessary pice of 1/2" plywood, covered on top with thin foam and carpet (mmm), with a half-round cutout to go around the mast and slit vinyl tubing protecting the edges all around. support lines from each of the 4 corners meet in a becket at chest height.

On my conveniently rigged gaff, I simply detach the lower block of the throat halyard and attach it to the bosun chair becket, and hoist myself up on the 2:1 purchase (not that that makes me particularly macho) as per cdragon's description.

Being the paranoid type however, I also use a climbing belay device attached to the chair becket: the fall from masthead goes through the belay device and then through a carabiner lower down on the chair (assuring that I won't accidentally raise up the fall in my own flailing and thus make the belay device inactive). After a few hand over hand hoists, I hang on with one hand and with the other pull the new excess line through the belay device. It's pretty solid as is, but when I get somewhere permanent I put two half hitches through another carabiner on the chair (the two loops overlapped trick can slip right inside the 'biner) and it's totally stable. For more redundancy I tie off to the mast and/or shrouds. Coming down just raise up the fall and you can vary the friction going through the belay device for a very gentle and controlled descent.

Belay devices like this (not the figure 8 type) can be had for $10-$15 if you're savvy about it.
http://images.rei.com/media/471034Ref.jpg

The fun bit comes when I have to get to the actual top of the mast, above the throat halyard block. Here the creative safety redundancies go on and on, as I climb out of the bosun chair (actually end up standing on it), relying upon a low-profile climbing harness with webbing straps and carabiners attached to everything available. That probably gets the most funny looks from the dock.

Call me twisted, but I rather like going up there (on a nice day) ...perhaps because it's not an emergency. Good view.

[Hwyl]

Originally posted by Terry Rhoads:
Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-TerrySorry I've been away from the internet for a while.

I did not like it: Lots of weight aloft for no reason, difficult to deal with the twist in the mainsail (you had to oversheet it to prevent the tack from shivering). Scary as hell on a run (an accidental gybe would pull the rig completely out of the boat, no way of seting a preventer).

It was nice in a blow when you had lots of lowers to play with, When I sailed Sintra I don't think she had that bowsprit.

[Hwyl]

Originally posted by Terry Rhoads:
Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-TerrySorry I've been away from the internet for a while.

I did not like it: Lots of weight aloft for no reason, difficult to deal with the twist in the mainsail (you had to oversheet it to prevent the tack from shivering). Scary as hell on a run (an accidental gybe would pull the rig completely out of the boat, no way of seting a preventer).

It was nice in a blow when you had lots of lowers to play with, When I sailed Sintra I don't think she had that bowsprit.

[Hwyl]

Originally posted by Terry Rhoads:
Off topic, but Hwyl- What were your impressions of the wishbone ketch rig? Did you sail on her, or just do rig work? I've long been fascinated with the rig, but hear varying opinions on efficiency vs. complication (of the rig in general, not specificly Sintra).
-TerrySorry I've been away from the internet for a while.

I did not like it: Lots of weight aloft for no reason, difficult to deal with the twist in the mainsail (you had to oversheet it to prevent the tack from shivering). Scary as hell on a run (an accidental gybe would pull the rig completely out of the boat, no way of seting a preventer).

It was nice in a blow when you had lots of lowers to play with, When I sailed Sintra I don't think she had that bowsprit.

[Terry Rhoads]

Hwyl-
Thanks for your comments. I've read of a successful offshore racer in the'30s, named Svaap, with that rig, but only a few since then, none with particularly positive results. I suppose the idea is lots of slots would be good, plus smaller more manageable sails, but I guess the results don't justify the complication.
Thanks,-Terry

[Terry Rhoads]

Hwyl-
Thanks for your comments. I've read of a successful offshore racer in the'30s, named Svaap, with that rig, but only a few since then, none with particularly positive results. I suppose the idea is lots of slots would be good, plus smaller more manageable sails, but I guess the results don't justify the complication.
Thanks,-Terry

[Terry Rhoads]

Hwyl-
Thanks for your comments. I've read of a successful offshore racer in the'30s, named Svaap, with that rig, but only a few since then, none with particularly positive results. I suppose the idea is lots of slots would be good, plus smaller more manageable sails, but I guess the results don't justify the complication.
Thanks,-Terry

[Hwyl]

I looked at a boat in Gloucester Mass that had been built for Daphne du Maurier. She was originally rigged as a wishbone ketch, but had been converted to a regular bermudian. If I remember corectly, there was some reference to the downwind problem.

[Hwyl]

I looked at a boat in Gloucester Mass that had been built for Daphne du Maurier. She was originally rigged as a wishbone ketch, but had been converted to a regular bermudian. If I remember corectly, there was some reference to the downwind problem.

[Hwyl]

I looked at a boat in Gloucester Mass that had been built for Daphne du Maurier. She was originally rigged as a wishbone ketch, but had been converted to a regular bermudian. If I remember corectly, there was some reference to the downwind problem.

[chergui]

Mission acomplished. Thanks all, it wasn't as bad as I expected. I did it with the help of one other person. The only difficulty was that the halyard was new and slippery and the winch is also very smooth and slippery which made it harder to haul me up. When my friend hauled me up, the halyard just slipped around the winch and the winch didn't really turn at all. I used a simple but comfortable bosuns chair with lower back rest and crotch strap and felt very secure. Extra pulleys would help for next time. And I'll use a belaying device next time, especially with less experienced deck crew, just in case.

[chergui]

Mission acomplished. Thanks all, it wasn't as bad as I expected. I did it with the help of one other person. The only difficulty was that the halyard was new and slippery and the winch is also very smooth and slippery which made it harder to haul me up. When my friend hauled me up, the halyard just slipped around the winch and the winch didn't really turn at all. I used a simple but comfortable bosuns chair with lower back rest and crotch strap and felt very secure. Extra pulleys would help for next time. And I'll use a belaying device next time, especially with less experienced deck crew, just in case.

[chergui]

Mission acomplished. Thanks all, it wasn't as bad as I expected. I did it with the help of one other person. The only difficulty was that the halyard was new and slippery and the winch is also very smooth and slippery which made it harder to haul me up. When my friend hauled me up, the halyard just slipped around the winch and the winch didn't really turn at all. I used a simple but comfortable bosuns chair with lower back rest and crotch strap and felt very secure. Extra pulleys would help for next time. And I'll use a belaying device next time, especially with less experienced deck crew, just in case.

[Gary Bergman]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hwyl:
[QB]It was this rig.
As the owner of two ketches, that's gotta be one of the coolest strange rigs I've seen!..Luv the wishbone main, allowing the stays'l under....nifty, man

[Gary Bergman]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hwyl:
[QB]It was this rig.
As the owner of two ketches, that's gotta be one of the coolest strange rigs I've seen!..Luv the wishbone main, allowing the stays'l under....nifty, man

[Gary Bergman]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Hwyl:
[QB]It was this rig.
As the owner of two ketches, that's gotta be one of the coolest strange rigs I've seen!..Luv the wishbone main, allowing the stays'l under....nifty, man