drill bit sharpeners

[Jim Budde]

Anyone have an opinion on drill bit sharpeners. My woodworking friends just suggested throwing dull bits away and buying new .. I'm a little more frugal. Have seen several that look like oversized electric pencil sharpeners . Prices seem to be $70 - $140 (US). Unfortunately I do not know anyone who has actually used one of these gadgets .. and my experience with "gadgets" has not been particularly rewarding. So .. anyone using an electric drill bit sharpener? .. Do you like them? If so, what brand would you recommend? Which size .. lots of bit sizes (the $140 variety) or limited (the $70 variety)? Thanks in advanced

[Jim Budde]

Anyone have an opinion on drill bit sharpeners. My woodworking friends just suggested throwing dull bits away and buying new .. I'm a little more frugal. Have seen several that look like oversized electric pencil sharpeners . Prices seem to be $70 - $140 (US). Unfortunately I do not know anyone who has actually used one of these gadgets .. and my experience with "gadgets" has not been particularly rewarding. So .. anyone using an electric drill bit sharpener? .. Do you like them? If so, what brand would you recommend? Which size .. lots of bit sizes (the $140 variety) or limited (the $70 variety)? Thanks in advanced

[Jim Budde]

Anyone have an opinion on drill bit sharpeners. My woodworking friends just suggested throwing dull bits away and buying new .. I'm a little more frugal. Have seen several that look like oversized electric pencil sharpeners . Prices seem to be $70 - $140 (US). Unfortunately I do not know anyone who has actually used one of these gadgets .. and my experience with "gadgets" has not been particularly rewarding. So .. anyone using an electric drill bit sharpener? .. Do you like them? If so, what brand would you recommend? Which size .. lots of bit sizes (the $140 variety) or limited (the $70 variety)? Thanks in advanced

[Ron Williamson]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
We learned that skill at the beginning of a heavy equipment course,with old time grumpy instructors,teaching young guys to pay attention and read the effing manual.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
We learned that skill at the beginning of a heavy equipment course,with old time grumpy instructors,teaching young guys to pay attention and read the effing manual.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
We learned that skill at the beginning of a heavy equipment course,with old time grumpy instructors,teaching young guys to pay attention and read the effing manual.
R

[John Kollath]

Jim

Tell your friends to send the drill bits to me ;)

I have only had experience with the larger commercial drill sharpening machines (1/2 drills up).

There have been a few articles floating around on how to do it by hand and although alot of info was in them, I was confused as heck.

My suggestion is to find a machine shop, Tool & die shop or metal working shop in your area, (a smaller one would probably be better) find the grayest haired grumpy guy in there, buy him a cup of coffee, and ask him to show you the "magic" behind doing it by hand. He will be happy to do it, and it shouldn't take ten minutes.

After you know the basics, you need to PRACTICE.

This did not answer your question, but it is cheaper.

Good luck
John

[John Kollath]

Jim

Tell your friends to send the drill bits to me ;)

I have only had experience with the larger commercial drill sharpening machines (1/2 drills up).

There have been a few articles floating around on how to do it by hand and although alot of info was in them, I was confused as heck.

My suggestion is to find a machine shop, Tool & die shop or metal working shop in your area, (a smaller one would probably be better) find the grayest haired grumpy guy in there, buy him a cup of coffee, and ask him to show you the "magic" behind doing it by hand. He will be happy to do it, and it shouldn't take ten minutes.

After you know the basics, you need to PRACTICE.

This did not answer your question, but it is cheaper.

Good luck
John

[John Kollath]

Jim

Tell your friends to send the drill bits to me ;)

I have only had experience with the larger commercial drill sharpening machines (1/2 drills up).

There have been a few articles floating around on how to do it by hand and although alot of info was in them, I was confused as heck.

My suggestion is to find a machine shop, Tool & die shop or metal working shop in your area, (a smaller one would probably be better) find the grayest haired grumpy guy in there, buy him a cup of coffee, and ask him to show you the "magic" behind doing it by hand. He will be happy to do it, and it shouldn't take ten minutes.

After you know the basics, you need to PRACTICE.

This did not answer your question, but it is cheaper.

Good luck
John

[John Kollath]

Ron

Your post wasn't there when I typed my post, amazed at the same advice and Grumpy description. (Been there, am one) smile.gif

john

[John Kollath]

Ron

Your post wasn't there when I typed my post, amazed at the same advice and Grumpy description. (Been there, am one) smile.gif

john

[John Kollath]

Ron

Your post wasn't there when I typed my post, amazed at the same advice and Grumpy description. (Been there, am one) smile.gif

john

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ron's right.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ron's right.

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ron's right.

Alan

[Mike DeHart]

I have tried 3 or 4 different kinds of drill sharpeners. The only one that gave good results was in the tool shop of a clutch and brake manufacturing company where I worked. Unfortunately, you can't buy that model for anything near $150. Where I work now we just bought the $150 model from a large metalwork supply house for our maintenance shop. I read the manual and tried the machine. After fiddling with a few bits for a while with varying degrees of results, I walked over to the pedestal grinder and *zzzip zzzip* I had a good bit in my hand.

I taught myself to hand grind drill bits at age 12 by studying the geometry of a bit in an old copy of the machinist's handbook. I used a beat up drill bit to practice with until I got the hang of it. It is easier to learn on a bit about 3/8 inch. Don't try a 1/16 bit as your first attempt or you will think it is impossible to hand grind bits. It really isn't very hard to learn, but it is hard to try to write how it is done. You just have to learn what to look for in terms of point angles and relief.

[Mike DeHart]

I have tried 3 or 4 different kinds of drill sharpeners. The only one that gave good results was in the tool shop of a clutch and brake manufacturing company where I worked. Unfortunately, you can't buy that model for anything near $150. Where I work now we just bought the $150 model from a large metalwork supply house for our maintenance shop. I read the manual and tried the machine. After fiddling with a few bits for a while with varying degrees of results, I walked over to the pedestal grinder and *zzzip zzzip* I had a good bit in my hand.

I taught myself to hand grind drill bits at age 12 by studying the geometry of a bit in an old copy of the machinist's handbook. I used a beat up drill bit to practice with until I got the hang of it. It is easier to learn on a bit about 3/8 inch. Don't try a 1/16 bit as your first attempt or you will think it is impossible to hand grind bits. It really isn't very hard to learn, but it is hard to try to write how it is done. You just have to learn what to look for in terms of point angles and relief.

[Mike DeHart]

I have tried 3 or 4 different kinds of drill sharpeners. The only one that gave good results was in the tool shop of a clutch and brake manufacturing company where I worked. Unfortunately, you can't buy that model for anything near $150. Where I work now we just bought the $150 model from a large metalwork supply house for our maintenance shop. I read the manual and tried the machine. After fiddling with a few bits for a while with varying degrees of results, I walked over to the pedestal grinder and *zzzip zzzip* I had a good bit in my hand.

I taught myself to hand grind drill bits at age 12 by studying the geometry of a bit in an old copy of the machinist's handbook. I used a beat up drill bit to practice with until I got the hang of it. It is easier to learn on a bit about 3/8 inch. Don't try a 1/16 bit as your first attempt or you will think it is impossible to hand grind bits. It really isn't very hard to learn, but it is hard to try to write how it is done. You just have to learn what to look for in terms of point angles and relief.

[Bob Smalser]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
I used to do them all freehand using a drill bit gage...here used to measure an angle:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3302194/40548925.jpg

But I got me a Drill Doctor for Christmas a couple years ago that's the cat's meow for those half inch and smaller bits so hard to see to sharpen any more. I recommend them. I do the larger ones the old fashioned way.

[Bob Smalser]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
I used to do them all freehand using a drill bit gage...here used to measure an angle:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3302194/40548925.jpg

But I got me a Drill Doctor for Christmas a couple years ago that's the cat's meow for those half inch and smaller bits so hard to see to sharpen any more. I recommend them. I do the larger ones the old fashioned way.

[Bob Smalser]

Find an old school machinist and get him to show you how to do it freehand, on a grinder.I do it pretty often and it takes a bit of patience, but works really well.
I don't tolerate dull bits any more,and I don't replace many,either.
I used to do them all freehand using a drill bit gage...here used to measure an angle:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/3302194/40548925.jpg

But I got me a Drill Doctor for Christmas a couple years ago that's the cat's meow for those half inch and smaller bits so hard to see to sharpen any more. I recommend them. I do the larger ones the old fashioned way.

[Jim Budde]

Thanks folks ... I''ll go to the metal shop near my office over lunch and look for the "grey haired" expert

[Jim Budde]

Thanks folks ... I''ll go to the metal shop near my office over lunch and look for the "grey haired" expert

[Jim Budde]

Thanks folks ... I''ll go to the metal shop near my office over lunch and look for the "grey haired" expert

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[BRU]

The Drill Doctor model 250 about $70 -$80. Works great -easy to use. The first 2 or 3 sizes ( 1/16th etc ) I just buy new ones. The rest you can sharpen in the Drill Doctor in about 60 seconds. Your local Home Depot, etc should have all the models - decide which one you like. Bruce

[brad9798]

Drill Dr. vote!

Great piece of equipment!

[brad9798]

Drill Dr. vote!

Great piece of equipment!

[brad9798]

Drill Dr. vote!

Great piece of equipment!

[raycon]

Drill doctor and learn to do it by hand till you get one -- Helps to justify the purchase.

[raycon]

Drill doctor and learn to do it by hand till you get one -- Helps to justify the purchase.

[raycon]

Drill doctor and learn to do it by hand till you get one -- Helps to justify the purchase.

[Ed Harrow]

I got a drill doc. You can have mine when you pry my cold, dead fingers from it. ;)

[Ed Harrow]

I got a drill doc. You can have mine when you pry my cold, dead fingers from it. ;)

[Ed Harrow]

I got a drill doc. You can have mine when you pry my cold, dead fingers from it. ;)

[landlocked sailor]

Harry Brian wrote a WB article a couple of years ago about a homemade jig just for the above. I've always been meaning to make one....

[landlocked sailor]

Harry Brian wrote a WB article a couple of years ago about a homemade jig just for the above. I've always been meaning to make one....

[landlocked sailor]

Harry Brian wrote a WB article a couple of years ago about a homemade jig just for the above. I've always been meaning to make one....

[Mike DeHart]

Actually, since we are naming names, it was the drill doctor that I fiddled with and went back to hand grinding. The first bit (1/4") came out pretty nice but the larger ones (3/8" & 1/2") were not nice at all. Maybe the drills here have a non-standard helix angle, but the settings per instructions gave me a chisel point angle that was acute, not obtuse, when looking end on. Count me as the first negative for this machine.

Besides, by hand grinding you are not locked into the 118° or 135° tip geometry. For drilling sheet metal I grind very shallow, maybe close to 160°. For soft materials I change the cutting edge angle of attack so the bit doesn't try to screw itself into the work. I have ground bits to cut flat bottoms in blind holes. I like the versatility of practiced knowledge.

[Mike DeHart]

Actually, since we are naming names, it was the drill doctor that I fiddled with and went back to hand grinding. The first bit (1/4") came out pretty nice but the larger ones (3/8" & 1/2") were not nice at all. Maybe the drills here have a non-standard helix angle, but the settings per instructions gave me a chisel point angle that was acute, not obtuse, when looking end on. Count me as the first negative for this machine.

Besides, by hand grinding you are not locked into the 118° or 135° tip geometry. For drilling sheet metal I grind very shallow, maybe close to 160°. For soft materials I change the cutting edge angle of attack so the bit doesn't try to screw itself into the work. I have ground bits to cut flat bottoms in blind holes. I like the versatility of practiced knowledge.

[Mike DeHart]

Actually, since we are naming names, it was the drill doctor that I fiddled with and went back to hand grinding. The first bit (1/4") came out pretty nice but the larger ones (3/8" & 1/2") were not nice at all. Maybe the drills here have a non-standard helix angle, but the settings per instructions gave me a chisel point angle that was acute, not obtuse, when looking end on. Count me as the first negative for this machine.

Besides, by hand grinding you are not locked into the 118° or 135° tip geometry. For drilling sheet metal I grind very shallow, maybe close to 160°. For soft materials I change the cutting edge angle of attack so the bit doesn't try to screw itself into the work. I have ground bits to cut flat bottoms in blind holes. I like the versatility of practiced knowledge.

[G. Schollmeier]

Did someone call for a grey haired old machinist? This is my opinionated opinion, as one of our old salts use to say.

For drilling in wood, grinding by hand and using a drill gage will give you good results. I prefer a belt sander to a bench grinder, unless you have a 10” or bigger wheel.

A few years back our shop got a Darex drill sharpener, good for 1/8” – 5/8” drills and I love it. :D I even sharpen new drills before I use them. Under 1/8” I toss them, over 5/8” I still do by hand

Gary :D

[G. Schollmeier]

Did someone call for a grey haired old machinist? This is my opinionated opinion, as one of our old salts use to say.

For drilling in wood, grinding by hand and using a drill gage will give you good results. I prefer a belt sander to a bench grinder, unless you have a 10” or bigger wheel.

A few years back our shop got a Darex drill sharpener, good for 1/8” – 5/8” drills and I love it. :D I even sharpen new drills before I use them. Under 1/8” I toss them, over 5/8” I still do by hand

Gary :D

[G. Schollmeier]

Did someone call for a grey haired old machinist? This is my opinionated opinion, as one of our old salts use to say.

For drilling in wood, grinding by hand and using a drill gage will give you good results. I prefer a belt sander to a bench grinder, unless you have a 10” or bigger wheel.

A few years back our shop got a Darex drill sharpener, good for 1/8” – 5/8” drills and I love it. :D I even sharpen new drills before I use them. Under 1/8” I toss them, over 5/8” I still do by hand

Gary :D

[ion barnes]

Any drill less than 3/16 can be thrown away. too much trouble. Only the first 1/4 inch or so is re-sharpenable because to web, or the middle part of the drill twist is thicker (tapered) which makes for thick drillpoints and are had to start. We are talking of $2 a drill, so get a new one.

[ion barnes]

Any drill less than 3/16 can be thrown away. too much trouble. Only the first 1/4 inch or so is re-sharpenable because to web, or the middle part of the drill twist is thicker (tapered) which makes for thick drillpoints and are had to start. We are talking of $2 a drill, so get a new one.

[ion barnes]

Any drill less than 3/16 can be thrown away. too much trouble. Only the first 1/4 inch or so is re-sharpenable because to web, or the middle part of the drill twist is thicker (tapered) which makes for thick drillpoints and are had to start. We are talking of $2 a drill, so get a new one.