Router bits/pilot bearings (rats!)

[Alan Peck]

I don't have a lot of experience with routers. But have used one a number of times with no problems.

I just tried using a flush cutting bit with a pilot bearing. I am using it to trim the 3/8" plywood topsides flush with the shear log.

Its a brand new bit and after only 15' or so or cutting the pilot bearing disintigrated and the result was a nice gouge in the shear.

Did I do something wrong? For example are you supposed to do only a couple of feet at a time and let it cool, or are you supposed to lubricate the bearing? Or, lastly was my bit a piece of junk? By the way I bouught it at Home Depot.

Any thoughts or advice.

Thanks

[Alan Peck]

I don't have a lot of experience with routers. But have used one a number of times with no problems.

I just tried using a flush cutting bit with a pilot bearing. I am using it to trim the 3/8" plywood topsides flush with the shear log.

Its a brand new bit and after only 15' or so or cutting the pilot bearing disintigrated and the result was a nice gouge in the shear.

Did I do something wrong? For example are you supposed to do only a couple of feet at a time and let it cool, or are you supposed to lubricate the bearing? Or, lastly was my bit a piece of junk? By the way I bouught it at Home Depot.

Any thoughts or advice.

Thanks

[Alan Peck]

I don't have a lot of experience with routers. But have used one a number of times with no problems.

I just tried using a flush cutting bit with a pilot bearing. I am using it to trim the 3/8" plywood topsides flush with the shear log.

Its a brand new bit and after only 15' or so or cutting the pilot bearing disintigrated and the result was a nice gouge in the shear.

Did I do something wrong? For example are you supposed to do only a couple of feet at a time and let it cool, or are you supposed to lubricate the bearing? Or, lastly was my bit a piece of junk? By the way I bouught it at Home Depot.

Any thoughts or advice.

Thanks

[gary porter]

Alan, I would take the bit back as the bearing was probably defective from the start. There should be a screw to hold it in place and a small washer. The best bits that I've found are Whitsides which can be bought any number of places like Woodcraft etc. You can replace the bearing and or use a different size for special jobs and you can get them from Woodcraft, Jamestown Distributors , or many other suppliers. No way the bearing should have given up that quick. Did the screw come out or did it actually fall apart? In any case go for a better brand,,,,don't buy cheap ones..good luck.
Gary

[gary porter]

Alan, I would take the bit back as the bearing was probably defective from the start. There should be a screw to hold it in place and a small washer. The best bits that I've found are Whitsides which can be bought any number of places like Woodcraft etc. You can replace the bearing and or use a different size for special jobs and you can get them from Woodcraft, Jamestown Distributors , or many other suppliers. No way the bearing should have given up that quick. Did the screw come out or did it actually fall apart? In any case go for a better brand,,,,don't buy cheap ones..good luck.
Gary

[gary porter]

Alan, I would take the bit back as the bearing was probably defective from the start. There should be a screw to hold it in place and a small washer. The best bits that I've found are Whitsides which can be bought any number of places like Woodcraft etc. You can replace the bearing and or use a different size for special jobs and you can get them from Woodcraft, Jamestown Distributors , or many other suppliers. No way the bearing should have given up that quick. Did the screw come out or did it actually fall apart? In any case go for a better brand,,,,don't buy cheap ones..good luck.
Gary

[Charlie J]

I have router bits with pilot bushings (both above the bit and below) that have run literally thousands of feet of cut. I have some bits (from Sears even) that are 20 years or more old and still running on the same bearings.

If that bearing came apart after 15 feet, I'd INSIST on a refund and go buy a good bit.

Good bits, for long term use aren't necessarily cheap but they last, so in the long run they are less expensive than cheapies.

[Charlie J]

I have router bits with pilot bushings (both above the bit and below) that have run literally thousands of feet of cut. I have some bits (from Sears even) that are 20 years or more old and still running on the same bearings.

If that bearing came apart after 15 feet, I'd INSIST on a refund and go buy a good bit.

Good bits, for long term use aren't necessarily cheap but they last, so in the long run they are less expensive than cheapies.

[Charlie J]

I have router bits with pilot bushings (both above the bit and below) that have run literally thousands of feet of cut. I have some bits (from Sears even) that are 20 years or more old and still running on the same bearings.

If that bearing came apart after 15 feet, I'd INSIST on a refund and go buy a good bit.

Good bits, for long term use aren't necessarily cheap but they last, so in the long run they are less expensive than cheapies.

[Rich VanValkenburg]

First, I'd take the bits & pieces back for a refund. If it fell apart that quickly, it was junk to begin with. Then, take your money elsewhere (the once bitten theory).

The only time I ever had a pilot bearing sieze was during trimming of formica, where the contact adhesive heated up and wound itself around the bearing shaft like a long weed does with a weed-wacker.

I try to be gentle with my bits, a little at a time and no hard pressure on the bearing. I'm not saying your technique might be wrong, I'm just saying I'm a nervous person and I don't trust anything spinning that fast, so I go slow. I still think the bearing was junk to start with.

Rich

[Rich VanValkenburg]

First, I'd take the bits & pieces back for a refund. If it fell apart that quickly, it was junk to begin with. Then, take your money elsewhere (the once bitten theory).

The only time I ever had a pilot bearing sieze was during trimming of formica, where the contact adhesive heated up and wound itself around the bearing shaft like a long weed does with a weed-wacker.

I try to be gentle with my bits, a little at a time and no hard pressure on the bearing. I'm not saying your technique might be wrong, I'm just saying I'm a nervous person and I don't trust anything spinning that fast, so I go slow. I still think the bearing was junk to start with.

Rich

[Rich VanValkenburg]

First, I'd take the bits & pieces back for a refund. If it fell apart that quickly, it was junk to begin with. Then, take your money elsewhere (the once bitten theory).

The only time I ever had a pilot bearing sieze was during trimming of formica, where the contact adhesive heated up and wound itself around the bearing shaft like a long weed does with a weed-wacker.

I try to be gentle with my bits, a little at a time and no hard pressure on the bearing. I'm not saying your technique might be wrong, I'm just saying I'm a nervous person and I don't trust anything spinning that fast, so I go slow. I still think the bearing was junk to start with.

Rich

[jlapratt]

Are you using a 3/8" bit to trim 3/8" ply? A neighbor tried this and had thin uncut ply just below the botom of the cutters, that worked against the bearing. He cooked the bearing in short order.

If this didn't happen to you, then the bearing may have been defective. But I would spend some time looking at the loads placed on the bearing and perhaps some interference.

[jlapratt]

Are you using a 3/8" bit to trim 3/8" ply? A neighbor tried this and had thin uncut ply just below the botom of the cutters, that worked against the bearing. He cooked the bearing in short order.

If this didn't happen to you, then the bearing may have been defective. But I would spend some time looking at the loads placed on the bearing and perhaps some interference.

[jlapratt]

Are you using a 3/8" bit to trim 3/8" ply? A neighbor tried this and had thin uncut ply just below the botom of the cutters, that worked against the bearing. He cooked the bearing in short order.

If this didn't happen to you, then the bearing may have been defective. But I would spend some time looking at the loads placed on the bearing and perhaps some interference.

[ken mcclure]

What diameter is the bit? The thinner bits don't hold up well to a lot of work unless you push them slowly. If you're taking off a lot of material, a thicker bit would be best. Or set up your template to take off material in multiple thinner passes.

And as said above, don't bother wasting money on the cheaper bits.

[ken mcclure]

What diameter is the bit? The thinner bits don't hold up well to a lot of work unless you push them slowly. If you're taking off a lot of material, a thicker bit would be best. Or set up your template to take off material in multiple thinner passes.

And as said above, don't bother wasting money on the cheaper bits.

[ken mcclure]

What diameter is the bit? The thinner bits don't hold up well to a lot of work unless you push them slowly. If you're taking off a lot of material, a thicker bit would be best. Or set up your template to take off material in multiple thinner passes.

And as said above, don't bother wasting money on the cheaper bits.

[David N.]

I dont use my router much , and 95% of it's use is for Aluminum . Either for champhering an edge for welding or bull noseing a plate ( I have done this up to 1/2 plate ) , so I guess this would be extreme use . I have never had a bearing come a part , some of my bit's are 15 year's old . I found one brand I liked WKW ( Wisconsin Knife Works ) and I do use a wax ( do-all cutting wax ) on all my tool's . I know this is not something wood guy's do !! .

Homeless de pot , the wall mart of construction , I can not belive their style , the little phone ring's , and they can not wait to answer it , as if the person is a cash customer willing to buy then and there . some times I just walk out , and spend my money some where else !! .

[David N.]

I dont use my router much , and 95% of it's use is for Aluminum . Either for champhering an edge for welding or bull noseing a plate ( I have done this up to 1/2 plate ) , so I guess this would be extreme use . I have never had a bearing come a part , some of my bit's are 15 year's old . I found one brand I liked WKW ( Wisconsin Knife Works ) and I do use a wax ( do-all cutting wax ) on all my tool's . I know this is not something wood guy's do !! .

Homeless de pot , the wall mart of construction , I can not belive their style , the little phone ring's , and they can not wait to answer it , as if the person is a cash customer willing to buy then and there . some times I just walk out , and spend my money some where else !! .

[David N.]

I dont use my router much , and 95% of it's use is for Aluminum . Either for champhering an edge for welding or bull noseing a plate ( I have done this up to 1/2 plate ) , so I guess this would be extreme use . I have never had a bearing come a part , some of my bit's are 15 year's old . I found one brand I liked WKW ( Wisconsin Knife Works ) and I do use a wax ( do-all cutting wax ) on all my tool's . I know this is not something wood guy's do !! .

Homeless de pot , the wall mart of construction , I can not belive their style , the little phone ring's , and they can not wait to answer it , as if the person is a cash customer willing to buy then and there . some times I just walk out , and spend my money some where else !! .

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the replys.

The bit I am (was) using is 1/2 inch diameter and about 1 1/2" long.

I am going to take the advice and try to get a refund from Home Depot.

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the replys.

The bit I am (was) using is 1/2 inch diameter and about 1 1/2" long.

I am going to take the advice and try to get a refund from Home Depot.

[Alan Peck]

Thanks for the replys.

The bit I am (was) using is 1/2 inch diameter and about 1 1/2" long.

I am going to take the advice and try to get a refund from Home Depot.

[Bill Perkins]

Alan I was taught to use a saw to within about an 1/8th or 1/4 in. of the final line and then use the router .I recently bought a good bit like you describe with 1/2 in. shank and payed $45 , but no problems .They make the bearings as small as they can get by with so you're not supposed to put big side loads on them .

[ 01-23-2003, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Alan I was taught to use a saw to within about an 1/8th or 1/4 in. of the final line and then use the router .I recently bought a good bit like you describe with 1/2 in. shank and payed $45 , but no problems .They make the bearings as small as they can get by with so you're not supposed to put big side loads on them .

[ 01-23-2003, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Alan I was taught to use a saw to within about an 1/8th or 1/4 in. of the final line and then use the router .I recently bought a good bit like you describe with 1/2 in. shank and payed $45 , but no problems .They make the bearings as small as they can get by with so you're not supposed to put big side loads on them .

[ 01-23-2003, 04:39 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Ross Faneuf]

This out outfit markets the entire Whiteside line (for those bits your local outfit don't stock). Includes replacement bearings and such.

http://www.routerbits.com/

[Ross Faneuf]

This out outfit markets the entire Whiteside line (for those bits your local outfit don't stock). Includes replacement bearings and such.

http://www.routerbits.com/

[Ross Faneuf]

This out outfit markets the entire Whiteside line (for those bits your local outfit don't stock). Includes replacement bearings and such.

http://www.routerbits.com/

[Dave Fleming]

As had been mentioned, you have to match the bit to the work or use intended.
Bits now come from all over the place, Chiwan, Israel,USA etc..
I have used WKW aka Wisconsis Knife Works ( good old company), Amana, Lietz, Onsrud.
I found that 1/4 inch shank bits are fine in the PC Laminate Trimmer I have dedicated to Bullnosing or softening edges but for all else I use 1/2 inch shank bits. Good bearings do last and are fully shielded and need no lubrication ( Al. work likes lubrication of the work piece and then a good clean up prior to welding). Laminate work can gum up a bit because of the glue but a conservative cleaning with solvent will usually remove the gunk in short order but remember that *conservative caveat* or else you will be leaching the lube right out of the bearing and then it can be disaster time. Bearings are relatively cheap, even the good ones, so there is no excuse for a bit manf. to not be using a good grade bearing.

[ 01-24-2003, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

As had been mentioned, you have to match the bit to the work or use intended.
Bits now come from all over the place, Chiwan, Israel,USA etc..
I have used WKW aka Wisconsis Knife Works ( good old company), Amana, Lietz, Onsrud.
I found that 1/4 inch shank bits are fine in the PC Laminate Trimmer I have dedicated to Bullnosing or softening edges but for all else I use 1/2 inch shank bits. Good bearings do last and are fully shielded and need no lubrication ( Al. work likes lubrication of the work piece and then a good clean up prior to welding). Laminate work can gum up a bit because of the glue but a conservative cleaning with solvent will usually remove the gunk in short order but remember that *conservative caveat* or else you will be leaching the lube right out of the bearing and then it can be disaster time. Bearings are relatively cheap, even the good ones, so there is no excuse for a bit manf. to not be using a good grade bearing.

[ 01-24-2003, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

As had been mentioned, you have to match the bit to the work or use intended.
Bits now come from all over the place, Chiwan, Israel,USA etc..
I have used WKW aka Wisconsis Knife Works ( good old company), Amana, Lietz, Onsrud.
I found that 1/4 inch shank bits are fine in the PC Laminate Trimmer I have dedicated to Bullnosing or softening edges but for all else I use 1/2 inch shank bits. Good bearings do last and are fully shielded and need no lubrication ( Al. work likes lubrication of the work piece and then a good clean up prior to welding). Laminate work can gum up a bit because of the glue but a conservative cleaning with solvent will usually remove the gunk in short order but remember that *conservative caveat* or else you will be leaching the lube right out of the bearing and then it can be disaster time. Bearings are relatively cheap, even the good ones, so there is no excuse for a bit manf. to not be using a good grade bearing.

[ 01-24-2003, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]