Shellback Trailer

[JodyAdamonis]

Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

[JodyAdamonis]

Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

[JodyAdamonis]

Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

[Keith Wilson]

Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

These folks sell very nice aluminum small boat trailers with springs matched for the light load, but they're quite expensive by comparison:
http://www.castlecraft.com/trailers.htm


[This message has been edited by Keith Wilson (edited 07-06-2001).]

[Keith Wilson]

Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

These folks sell very nice aluminum small boat trailers with springs matched for the light load, but they're quite expensive by comparison:
http://www.castlecraft.com/trailers.htm


[This message has been edited by Keith Wilson (edited 07-06-2001).]

[Keith Wilson]

Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

These folks sell very nice aluminum small boat trailers with springs matched for the light load, but they're quite expensive by comparison:
http://www.castlecraft.com/trailers.htm


[This message has been edited by Keith Wilson (edited 07-06-2001).]

[Mathews]

I have the Trailex Model SUT-500-S Trailer (aluminum), which I use for an 18' wooden canoe and plan to use for an 18-1/2' double-ended crabbing skiff. I am quite happy with the quality of the trailer and the availability of accessories. Get the galvanized wheels. For me the one negative is that it does not extend aft far enough for the longer boats even though the dealer knew the boat sizes I had in mind. The website dealer is cheaper than I paid locally, but all the options and shipping might add up to more than my rough estimate. I think assembly is something that could be handled by anyone with the ability to build a boat.

[Mathews]

I have the Trailex Model SUT-500-S Trailer (aluminum), which I use for an 18' wooden canoe and plan to use for an 18-1/2' double-ended crabbing skiff. I am quite happy with the quality of the trailer and the availability of accessories. Get the galvanized wheels. For me the one negative is that it does not extend aft far enough for the longer boats even though the dealer knew the boat sizes I had in mind. The website dealer is cheaper than I paid locally, but all the options and shipping might add up to more than my rough estimate. I think assembly is something that could be handled by anyone with the ability to build a boat.

[Mathews]

I have the Trailex Model SUT-500-S Trailer (aluminum), which I use for an 18' wooden canoe and plan to use for an 18-1/2' double-ended crabbing skiff. I am quite happy with the quality of the trailer and the availability of accessories. Get the galvanized wheels. For me the one negative is that it does not extend aft far enough for the longer boats even though the dealer knew the boat sizes I had in mind. The website dealer is cheaper than I paid locally, but all the options and shipping might add up to more than my rough estimate. I think assembly is something that could be handled by anyone with the ability to build a boat.

[MaxRudolph]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
[B]Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

B]

Hello,
I built a Shellback Dinghy and have been putting it on my roof rack but that is getting to be a huge pain. This said, I am looking for a trailer. Your post was quite intriguing because the Northen Hydraulics trailer is much cheaper than anything I have seen previously. Is the utility trailer that you bought the one that is $159 at Northern Tool? (Item# 12542). I would also be interested in knowing whether you considered just using Northern's personal watercraft kit on this trailer. It looks like it might fit a Shellback since this boat is lighter than a JetSki by far. If you can tell me any more about how difficult it was to attach homemade bunks, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
max
MaxRudolph@tcinternet.net

[MaxRudolph]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
[B]Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

B]

Hello,
I built a Shellback Dinghy and have been putting it on my roof rack but that is getting to be a huge pain. This said, I am looking for a trailer. Your post was quite intriguing because the Northen Hydraulics trailer is much cheaper than anything I have seen previously. Is the utility trailer that you bought the one that is $159 at Northern Tool? (Item# 12542). I would also be interested in knowing whether you considered just using Northern's personal watercraft kit on this trailer. It looks like it might fit a Shellback since this boat is lighter than a JetSki by far. If you can tell me any more about how difficult it was to attach homemade bunks, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
max
MaxRudolph@tcinternet.net

[MaxRudolph]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
[B]Trailers for really small boats are always problematic. Most are designed for fishing boats with a flat run and a big motor hung on the transom. If you don't mind doing a little custom fitting, Northern Hydraulics sells a small and very inexpensive utility trailer that can be adapted into a small boat trailer with a little ingenuity. I used one of these for a Bolger Gypsy (15' x 4' x 150 lbs). It required making bunks and bolting on a longer tongue; boats that small don't require a winch. Might not work well in salt water, though. Northern's trailer page is here:
http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274 279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on (http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgrfnbr=274279&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on)

B]

Hello,
I built a Shellback Dinghy and have been putting it on my roof rack but that is getting to be a huge pain. This said, I am looking for a trailer. Your post was quite intriguing because the Northen Hydraulics trailer is much cheaper than anything I have seen previously. Is the utility trailer that you bought the one that is $159 at Northern Tool? (Item# 12542). I would also be interested in knowing whether you considered just using Northern's personal watercraft kit on this trailer. It looks like it might fit a Shellback since this boat is lighter than a JetSki by far. If you can tell me any more about how difficult it was to attach homemade bunks, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
max
MaxRudolph@tcinternet.net

[TomRobb]

One possible problem with a trailer made for something heavier is that the springs are too stiff and may bounce the hell out of a not-supported-enough light boat. Most boats aren't engineered to take that sort of beating. Remember how much nicer your truck rides with a load in it?

[TomRobb]

One possible problem with a trailer made for something heavier is that the springs are too stiff and may bounce the hell out of a not-supported-enough light boat. Most boats aren't engineered to take that sort of beating. Remember how much nicer your truck rides with a load in it?

[TomRobb]

One possible problem with a trailer made for something heavier is that the springs are too stiff and may bounce the hell out of a not-supported-enough light boat. Most boats aren't engineered to take that sort of beating. Remember how much nicer your truck rides with a load in it?

[Keith Wilson]

Yes, that's the one. I don't think they had the PWC attachment at the time, so I made bunks out of wood. The longer tongue (which you may not need for a shellback) was a piece of square tubing from the scrap yard. The whole thing comes in a box and bolts together, so modifying it is simple - no welding.

Tom's right about heavy springs and light loads. The ones on the Northern trailer aren't too bad. You do have to strap the boat down tight, which you should do anyway. I usually ran a little lower pressure in the tires than recommended, which helped. With that light a load, heat buildup wasn't a problem. If I had to do it again, I might take out a leaf.

FWIW, I'll probably get another one for the 12' boat I'm working on now. The price is certainly attractive.

[Keith Wilson]

Yes, that's the one. I don't think they had the PWC attachment at the time, so I made bunks out of wood. The longer tongue (which you may not need for a shellback) was a piece of square tubing from the scrap yard. The whole thing comes in a box and bolts together, so modifying it is simple - no welding.

Tom's right about heavy springs and light loads. The ones on the Northern trailer aren't too bad. You do have to strap the boat down tight, which you should do anyway. I usually ran a little lower pressure in the tires than recommended, which helped. With that light a load, heat buildup wasn't a problem. If I had to do it again, I might take out a leaf.

FWIW, I'll probably get another one for the 12' boat I'm working on now. The price is certainly attractive.

[Keith Wilson]

Yes, that's the one. I don't think they had the PWC attachment at the time, so I made bunks out of wood. The longer tongue (which you may not need for a shellback) was a piece of square tubing from the scrap yard. The whole thing comes in a box and bolts together, so modifying it is simple - no welding.

Tom's right about heavy springs and light loads. The ones on the Northern trailer aren't too bad. You do have to strap the boat down tight, which you should do anyway. I usually ran a little lower pressure in the tires than recommended, which helped. With that light a load, heat buildup wasn't a problem. If I had to do it again, I might take out a leaf.

FWIW, I'll probably get another one for the 12' boat I'm working on now. The price is certainly attractive.

[MaxRudolph]

Thanks for all of the info. Keith, are the tail lights on the NH trailer submersible? My only remaining worry with thi trailer is that it won't handle being backed into a lake (freshwater because I live in Minnesota) repeatedly the way that a trailer designed to carry boats would.

thanks,
-max

[MaxRudolph]

Thanks for all of the info. Keith, are the tail lights on the NH trailer submersible? My only remaining worry with thi trailer is that it won't handle being backed into a lake (freshwater because I live in Minnesota) repeatedly the way that a trailer designed to carry boats would.

thanks,
-max

[MaxRudolph]

Thanks for all of the info. Keith, are the tail lights on the NH trailer submersible? My only remaining worry with thi trailer is that it won't handle being backed into a lake (freshwater because I live in Minnesota) repeatedly the way that a trailer designed to carry boats would.

thanks,
-max

[Syd MacDonald]

I use a utility trailer at the moment. The wheels are forward just aft of the center of the boat. I am going to move them back to the rear of the boat to cut down the bounce when going over a bump. I remember seeing a small book on building boat trailers by, I think, "Steve Henkel"?? Didn't buy it but should have.

[Syd MacDonald]

I use a utility trailer at the moment. The wheels are forward just aft of the center of the boat. I am going to move them back to the rear of the boat to cut down the bounce when going over a bump. I remember seeing a small book on building boat trailers by, I think, "Steve Henkel"?? Didn't buy it but should have.

[Syd MacDonald]

I use a utility trailer at the moment. The wheels are forward just aft of the center of the boat. I am going to move them back to the rear of the boat to cut down the bounce when going over a bump. I remember seeing a small book on building boat trailers by, I think, "Steve Henkel"?? Didn't buy it but should have.

[TomRobb]

I got thoroughly sick of fixing corroded tail lights http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/mad.gif on our old trailer. If I ever get another one I want the lights at the top of those posts at the rear of the trailer that the power boat guys use to guide their boats onto the trailer. Sealed lights don't seem to stay sealed. You might as well keep them up out of the water http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/rolleyes.gif

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 08-13-2001).]

[TomRobb]

I got thoroughly sick of fixing corroded tail lights http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/mad.gif on our old trailer. If I ever get another one I want the lights at the top of those posts at the rear of the trailer that the power boat guys use to guide their boats onto the trailer. Sealed lights don't seem to stay sealed. You might as well keep them up out of the water http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/rolleyes.gif

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 08-13-2001).]

[TomRobb]

I got thoroughly sick of fixing corroded tail lights http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/mad.gif on our old trailer. If I ever get another one I want the lights at the top of those posts at the rear of the trailer that the power boat guys use to guide their boats onto the trailer. Sealed lights don't seem to stay sealed. You might as well keep them up out of the water http://media5.hypernet.com/~dick/ubb/rolleyes.gif

[This message has been edited by TomRobb (edited 08-13-2001).]

[Keith Wilson]

The lights lasted for four or five years, then needed to be replaced. A set of "submersible" lights is about $20, I think, so if you wanted to be really careful you could put official boat trailer lights on it at the beginning. They don't last much longer, though. I just waited until the OEM ones died. Another alternative, since the boat is light, is not to submerge the lights at all - back down sorta close, then shove the boat off the trailer and into the water. She floats on heavy dew, anyway.

The bunks, if I remember right, were made out of 2x6 lumber, fastened with deck screws, and covered with stapled-on indoor-outdoor carpet. I just saw that you're in St. Paul, so if I still had the thing, I'd invite you over to take a look (I'm in Roseville), but I sold it a few years ago and it's now up in Hayward, WI.

The NH trailer isn't any great wonder - looking at it, you know why it costs $160 - but it worked fine for me.

[Keith Wilson]

The lights lasted for four or five years, then needed to be replaced. A set of "submersible" lights is about $20, I think, so if you wanted to be really careful you could put official boat trailer lights on it at the beginning. They don't last much longer, though. I just waited until the OEM ones died. Another alternative, since the boat is light, is not to submerge the lights at all - back down sorta close, then shove the boat off the trailer and into the water. She floats on heavy dew, anyway.

The bunks, if I remember right, were made out of 2x6 lumber, fastened with deck screws, and covered with stapled-on indoor-outdoor carpet. I just saw that you're in St. Paul, so if I still had the thing, I'd invite you over to take a look (I'm in Roseville), but I sold it a few years ago and it's now up in Hayward, WI.

The NH trailer isn't any great wonder - looking at it, you know why it costs $160 - but it worked fine for me.

[Keith Wilson]

The lights lasted for four or five years, then needed to be replaced. A set of "submersible" lights is about $20, I think, so if you wanted to be really careful you could put official boat trailer lights on it at the beginning. They don't last much longer, though. I just waited until the OEM ones died. Another alternative, since the boat is light, is not to submerge the lights at all - back down sorta close, then shove the boat off the trailer and into the water. She floats on heavy dew, anyway.

The bunks, if I remember right, were made out of 2x6 lumber, fastened with deck screws, and covered with stapled-on indoor-outdoor carpet. I just saw that you're in St. Paul, so if I still had the thing, I'd invite you over to take a look (I'm in Roseville), but I sold it a few years ago and it's now up in Hayward, WI.

The NH trailer isn't any great wonder - looking at it, you know why it costs $160 - but it worked fine for me.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by JodyAdamonis:
Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

Woodenboat #102 has an article on building a wooden trailer after one designed by ol' Nat Herreshoff. It or a similar trailer should work well for a light wooden rowboat like SHELLBACK.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by JodyAdamonis:
Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

Woodenboat #102 has an article on building a wooden trailer after one designed by ol' Nat Herreshoff. It or a similar trailer should work well for a light wooden rowboat like SHELLBACK.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by JodyAdamonis:
Does anybody know what size, make and model trailer will work best for the shellback dinghy?

Woodenboat #102 has an article on building a wooden trailer after one designed by ol' Nat Herreshoff. It or a similar trailer should work well for a light wooden rowboat like SHELLBACK.