need some info on stanley no 7 plane for scarph jig

[dmede]

I am going to make a little scarphing jig ala Greg Rossel in Building Small Boats. Its just a couple of 12:1 hard wood ramps used to guide a long plane such as Stanley no7 across your planking stock. I don't have a no7 so I am looking to buy a used one I guess.

Any tips on where to look online or in the Bay Area? (ebay seems to have a few with bids around $40)

What should I pay for a decent condition user plane?

Any reasonable new planes that could fit the bill?

Thanks,
Dave

[dmede]

I am going to make a little scarphing jig ala Greg Rossel in Building Small Boats. Its just a couple of 12:1 hard wood ramps used to guide a long plane such as Stanley no7 across your planking stock. I don't have a no7 so I am looking to buy a used one I guess.

Any tips on where to look online or in the Bay Area? (ebay seems to have a few with bids around $40)

What should I pay for a decent condition user plane?

Any reasonable new planes that could fit the bill?

Thanks,
Dave

[dmede]

I am going to make a little scarphing jig ala Greg Rossel in Building Small Boats. Its just a couple of 12:1 hard wood ramps used to guide a long plane such as Stanley no7 across your planking stock. I don't have a no7 so I am looking to buy a used one I guess.

Any tips on where to look online or in the Bay Area? (ebay seems to have a few with bids around $40)

What should I pay for a decent condition user plane?

Any reasonable new planes that could fit the bill?

Thanks,
Dave

[Garrett Lowell]

How wide is the stock you are planning to scarf? I don't see the need to use a 22" long plane if your planking stock is narrow and flat.

[Garrett Lowell]

How wide is the stock you are planning to scarf? I don't see the need to use a 22" long plane if your planking stock is narrow and flat.

[Garrett Lowell]

How wide is the stock you are planning to scarf? I don't see the need to use a 22" long plane if your planking stock is narrow and flat.

[dmede]

Its not that narrow, 7.5" wide. And several of scarphs will be dog-leg scarphs so the board will be at an angle to the jig taking up maybe 9" of width. That is the main reason I am using this jig, to get the dog-leg scarphs to match well. I am pretty good free handing normal scarphs in thin straight plank stock but would like a guide for this scarph. Plus I just want to try it.

edited to add: the two ramps for the jig are set 10" apart and the plane is held at an angle to those ramps while cutting, thus the need for a long plane to reach across the jig. also, a jointer plane would serve other functions in my shop, such as jointing ;)

[ 01-25-2005, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[dmede]

Its not that narrow, 7.5" wide. And several of scarphs will be dog-leg scarphs so the board will be at an angle to the jig taking up maybe 9" of width. That is the main reason I am using this jig, to get the dog-leg scarphs to match well. I am pretty good free handing normal scarphs in thin straight plank stock but would like a guide for this scarph. Plus I just want to try it.

edited to add: the two ramps for the jig are set 10" apart and the plane is held at an angle to those ramps while cutting, thus the need for a long plane to reach across the jig. also, a jointer plane would serve other functions in my shop, such as jointing ;)

[ 01-25-2005, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[dmede]

Its not that narrow, 7.5" wide. And several of scarphs will be dog-leg scarphs so the board will be at an angle to the jig taking up maybe 9" of width. That is the main reason I am using this jig, to get the dog-leg scarphs to match well. I am pretty good free handing normal scarphs in thin straight plank stock but would like a guide for this scarph. Plus I just want to try it.

edited to add: the two ramps for the jig are set 10" apart and the plane is held at an angle to those ramps while cutting, thus the need for a long plane to reach across the jig. also, a jointer plane would serve other functions in my shop, such as jointing ;)

[ 01-25-2005, 01:14 PM: Message edited by: dmede ]

[Garrett Lowell]

Well, in that case, I would state unequviocally to pick up an older, used no. 7, or a used E.C. Emmerich Primus try plane. I can't really speak to how much you would pay. I'm partial to the Emmerich planes, myself.

[Garrett Lowell]

Well, in that case, I would state unequviocally to pick up an older, used no. 7, or a used E.C. Emmerich Primus try plane. I can't really speak to how much you would pay. I'm partial to the Emmerich planes, myself.

[Garrett Lowell]

Well, in that case, I would state unequviocally to pick up an older, used no. 7, or a used E.C. Emmerich Primus try plane. I can't really speak to how much you would pay. I'm partial to the Emmerich planes, myself.

[Garrett Lowell]

Here's (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149264216&rd=1) a pretty nice looking Ohio jointer, and the price is right. I see on ebay a couple of Record #07s and another metal bodied Ohio #07.

[Garrett Lowell]

Here's (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149264216&rd=1) a pretty nice looking Ohio jointer, and the price is right. I see on ebay a couple of Record #07s and another metal bodied Ohio #07.

[Garrett Lowell]

Here's (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149264216&rd=1) a pretty nice looking Ohio jointer, and the price is right. I see on ebay a couple of Record #07s and another metal bodied Ohio #07.

[Bob Perkins]

I've done done of this exact work in the past few days.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/pb6a9c4e871370fbd040db21cffe1c6c2/fcc4dfd5.jpg

I used a #5 to get the scarf close... then finish with the #7. The length of the #7 really helps - it would be difficult w/o it.

There is a new plane maker becoming available in the US - Groz. They make a #5 for 1/2 the price of a stanley and same quality (visually anyway) and wooden handles - go figure.

Not sure if they have a #7.

The plane will need the standard cleanup that the Stanleys need when brand new - flatten bottom, clean up casting, etc.. The blade is probably not so good - but an aftermarket hock would be worth the $$.

Finally - it has one feature I like better than the Stanleys - the little wishbone piece that rides inside the adjustment screw is made of steel - not white metal - so you can't *adjust it* to take the slop out of adjusting the blade. The Stanley can't do this because the white metal will snap.

Good Luck,
Bob

[Bob Perkins]

I've done done of this exact work in the past few days.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/pb6a9c4e871370fbd040db21cffe1c6c2/fcc4dfd5.jpg

I used a #5 to get the scarf close... then finish with the #7. The length of the #7 really helps - it would be difficult w/o it.

There is a new plane maker becoming available in the US - Groz. They make a #5 for 1/2 the price of a stanley and same quality (visually anyway) and wooden handles - go figure.

Not sure if they have a #7.

The plane will need the standard cleanup that the Stanleys need when brand new - flatten bottom, clean up casting, etc.. The blade is probably not so good - but an aftermarket hock would be worth the $$.

Finally - it has one feature I like better than the Stanleys - the little wishbone piece that rides inside the adjustment screw is made of steel - not white metal - so you can't *adjust it* to take the slop out of adjusting the blade. The Stanley can't do this because the white metal will snap.

Good Luck,
Bob

[Bob Perkins]

I've done done of this exact work in the past few days.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid47/pb6a9c4e871370fbd040db21cffe1c6c2/fcc4dfd5.jpg

I used a #5 to get the scarf close... then finish with the #7. The length of the #7 really helps - it would be difficult w/o it.

There is a new plane maker becoming available in the US - Groz. They make a #5 for 1/2 the price of a stanley and same quality (visually anyway) and wooden handles - go figure.

Not sure if they have a #7.

The plane will need the standard cleanup that the Stanleys need when brand new - flatten bottom, clean up casting, etc.. The blade is probably not so good - but an aftermarket hock would be worth the $$.

Finally - it has one feature I like better than the Stanleys - the little wishbone piece that rides inside the adjustment screw is made of steel - not white metal - so you can't *adjust it* to take the slop out of adjusting the blade. The Stanley can't do this because the white metal will snap.

Good Luck,
Bob

[Paul Scheuer]

Forget about eBay. The "collectors" have made it rediculous. The antique and junk shops aren't quite as bad. You can get a fully functional, nasty looking plane for half what the're going for on eBay. I go my #5 and a decent #78 (missing the fence) for $10 at a garage sale. Both just needed a clean up.

If you really get stuck, there was a thread a while back about using an extended base on a router. The width would be pretty much unlimited. But I know, you'd rather own a #7 smile.gif

[dmede]

nice jig Bob, thats exactly what im talking about. did you cut the ramps out or plane them to shape? stupid question i guess. i found the groz planes at rockler but no jointer :(

Garrett, thanks for the info. i like price on that ohio but i know nothing about wood body planes. im used to metal bodies so i may try for that first.

[Paul Scheuer]

Forget about eBay. The "collectors" have made it rediculous. The antique and junk shops aren't quite as bad. You can get a fully functional, nasty looking plane for half what the're going for on eBay. I go my #5 and a decent #78 (missing the fence) for $10 at a garage sale. Both just needed a clean up.

If you really get stuck, there was a thread a while back about using an extended base on a router. The width would be pretty much unlimited. But I know, you'd rather own a #7 smile.gif

[dmede]

nice jig Bob, thats exactly what im talking about. did you cut the ramps out or plane them to shape? stupid question i guess. i found the groz planes at rockler but no jointer :(

Garrett, thanks for the info. i like price on that ohio but i know nothing about wood body planes. im used to metal bodies so i may try for that first.

[Paul Scheuer]

Forget about eBay. The "collectors" have made it rediculous. The antique and junk shops aren't quite as bad. You can get a fully functional, nasty looking plane for half what the're going for on eBay. I go my #5 and a decent #78 (missing the fence) for $10 at a garage sale. Both just needed a clean up.

If you really get stuck, there was a thread a while back about using an extended base on a router. The width would be pretty much unlimited. But I know, you'd rather own a #7 smile.gif

[dmede]

nice jig Bob, thats exactly what im talking about. did you cut the ramps out or plane them to shape? stupid question i guess. i found the groz planes at rockler but no jointer :(

Garrett, thanks for the info. i like price on that ohio but i know nothing about wood body planes. im used to metal bodies so i may try for that first.

[Bruce Taylor]

When you cut the 12:1 "ramps" make a few spares. Unless you're a lot more careful than I am, you'll hit the ramps with the plane occasionally, and they'll get pretty ragged after a while.

I have a no. 7, but use a very lightly built no. 5 for most of my scarfs. Whenever possible (that is. when the stock is under 6" wide & I'm not doing a dogleg) I rough out the scarf on the bandsaw first. Otherwise, I hog off most of the board with a no. 4 set for a very crude cut. The short sole & light weight make it easy to waste a lost of wood quickly. Then I finish up with a long-soled plane, set fine.

The work goes pretty quickly. It should take just a few minutes to scarf an 8" plank in 4/4 cedar.

[ 01-25-2005, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Taylor ]

[Bruce Taylor]

When you cut the 12:1 "ramps" make a few spares. Unless you're a lot more careful than I am, you'll hit the ramps with the plane occasionally, and they'll get pretty ragged after a while.

I have a no. 7, but use a very lightly built no. 5 for most of my scarfs. Whenever possible (that is. when the stock is under 6" wide & I'm not doing a dogleg) I rough out the scarf on the bandsaw first. Otherwise, I hog off most of the board with a no. 4 set for a very crude cut. The short sole & light weight make it easy to waste a lost of wood quickly. Then I finish up with a long-soled plane, set fine.

The work goes pretty quickly. It should take just a few minutes to scarf an 8" plank in 4/4 cedar.

[ 01-25-2005, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Taylor ]

[Bruce Taylor]

When you cut the 12:1 "ramps" make a few spares. Unless you're a lot more careful than I am, you'll hit the ramps with the plane occasionally, and they'll get pretty ragged after a while.

I have a no. 7, but use a very lightly built no. 5 for most of my scarfs. Whenever possible (that is. when the stock is under 6" wide & I'm not doing a dogleg) I rough out the scarf on the bandsaw first. Otherwise, I hog off most of the board with a no. 4 set for a very crude cut. The short sole & light weight make it easy to waste a lost of wood quickly. Then I finish up with a long-soled plane, set fine.

The work goes pretty quickly. It should take just a few minutes to scarf an 8" plank in 4/4 cedar.

[ 01-25-2005, 02:36 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Taylor ]

[Paul Stohlman]

I prefer the older Stanley Bedrock. The Bailey model especially the older ones are good too, I'm just partial to the Bedrock.

Stanley (and other makers) made cheaper "handyman" planes that are not appropriate for professional use.

Lie Nielsen makes a (better than Stanley) copy of the later version of the Bedrock series.

Japan Woodworker has them in their catalog and they are located in Alameda.

I would suggest a test drive.

There are several on line sources for used tools. e Bay can be good if you know exactly what you are looking for, otherwise unwise...

Good tools are forever.

[Paul Stohlman]

I prefer the older Stanley Bedrock. The Bailey model especially the older ones are good too, I'm just partial to the Bedrock.

Stanley (and other makers) made cheaper "handyman" planes that are not appropriate for professional use.

Lie Nielsen makes a (better than Stanley) copy of the later version of the Bedrock series.

Japan Woodworker has them in their catalog and they are located in Alameda.

I would suggest a test drive.

There are several on line sources for used tools. e Bay can be good if you know exactly what you are looking for, otherwise unwise...

Good tools are forever.

[Paul Stohlman]

I prefer the older Stanley Bedrock. The Bailey model especially the older ones are good too, I'm just partial to the Bedrock.

Stanley (and other makers) made cheaper "handyman" planes that are not appropriate for professional use.

Lie Nielsen makes a (better than Stanley) copy of the later version of the Bedrock series.

Japan Woodworker has them in their catalog and they are located in Alameda.

I would suggest a test drive.

There are several on line sources for used tools. e Bay can be good if you know exactly what you are looking for, otherwise unwise...

Good tools are forever.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

Rockler sells the Groz. The number 5 is only $39.99:

http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/25792-lg.jpg

I really like the Lee Valley planes but they don't have a number 7. Their number 6 is a beauty at $219.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/05p2801s1.jpg

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

Rockler sells the Groz. The number 5 is only $39.99:

http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/25792-lg.jpg

I really like the Lee Valley planes but they don't have a number 7. Their number 6 is a beauty at $219.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/05p2801s1.jpg

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

Rockler sells the Groz. The number 5 is only $39.99:

http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/25792-lg.jpg

I really like the Lee Valley planes but they don't have a number 7. Their number 6 is a beauty at $219.

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/planes/05p2801s1.jpg

Steven

[Bob Perkins]

Dave,

I cut the ramps on the taper jig on the table saw. It's easy to line up. You will find the little hold down clamp useful for keeping it all in place. I use bench dogs to keep the jig from floating around.

Now - If you go new - The Lie Nielsen is outstanding - but very pricy... Consider it a treat smile.gif

Take Care,
Bob

[Bob Perkins]

Dave,

I cut the ramps on the taper jig on the table saw. It's easy to line up. You will find the little hold down clamp useful for keeping it all in place. I use bench dogs to keep the jig from floating around.

Now - If you go new - The Lie Nielsen is outstanding - but very pricy... Consider it a treat smile.gif

Take Care,
Bob

[Bob Perkins]

Dave,

I cut the ramps on the taper jig on the table saw. It's easy to line up. You will find the little hold down clamp useful for keeping it all in place. I use bench dogs to keep the jig from floating around.

Now - If you go new - The Lie Nielsen is outstanding - but very pricy... Consider it a treat smile.gif

Take Care,
Bob

[Railmeat]

I used a jig like this with a router, like Paul was talking about. I bolted a board to the base of the router & used a straight (end cut) bit. Perfect scarf joints in 5 minutes...

Don

[Railmeat]

I used a jig like this with a router, like Paul was talking about. I bolted a board to the base of the router & used a straight (end cut) bit. Perfect scarf joints in 5 minutes...

Don

[Railmeat]

I used a jig like this with a router, like Paul was talking about. I bolted a board to the base of the router & used a straight (end cut) bit. Perfect scarf joints in 5 minutes...

Don

[Garrett Lowell]

If you decide to go with the LN, check out this website for excellent pricing, compared to LN's website:

The Best Things (http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/lie-nielsen.htm)

[Garrett Lowell]

If you decide to go with the LN, check out this website for excellent pricing, compared to LN's website:

The Best Things (http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/lie-nielsen.htm)

[Garrett Lowell]

If you decide to go with the LN, check out this website for excellent pricing, compared to LN's website:

The Best Things (http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/lie-nielsen.htm)

[dmede]

Thanks all. I would love to have a Lie Nelson but my level of work hardly warrants the $350 price tag! Im more of a $50 wood worker me thinks. Anyway I like the two used planes I have now so why not keep re-using the old stuff. I'm off this weekend to see if I can dig something up at a couple antique shops. Probelm is, in the Bay Area prices will probably be inflated even by Ebay standards. We'll see.

[dmede]

Thanks all. I would love to have a Lie Nelson but my level of work hardly warrants the $350 price tag! Im more of a $50 wood worker me thinks. Anyway I like the two used planes I have now so why not keep re-using the old stuff. I'm off this weekend to see if I can dig something up at a couple antique shops. Probelm is, in the Bay Area prices will probably be inflated even by Ebay standards. We'll see.

[dmede]

Thanks all. I would love to have a Lie Nelson but my level of work hardly warrants the $350 price tag! Im more of a $50 wood worker me thinks. Anyway I like the two used planes I have now so why not keep re-using the old stuff. I'm off this weekend to see if I can dig something up at a couple antique shops. Probelm is, in the Bay Area prices will probably be inflated even by Ebay standards. We'll see.

[Bob Smalser]

Stanley 7's and 8's...anywhere from 50-60 bucks for a decent, uncracked one.

Sure, you can pay more either on Ebay or from some prestige maker...but why? Highland Hardware has totes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142980897&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=4351966490&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148277151&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4123&item=6148733082&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148427746&rd=1

Heck...there are 30 more there but you get the drift.

I beat the collectors out of most of my tools on Ebay at exceptional prices without problem....takes patience, a seller with a reputation to protect, and some study to figure what's not hot with collectors.

There are also transitionals that are just as effective as cast iron planes but for less money:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142984021&rd=1

http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/1d/c0/24_1_b.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149445383&rd=1

There are also woodies which also will serve well for even less money than transitionals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148983627&rd=1

http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/sam75rider/.mids/3plane1.JPG

The bottom line is that you can get away with a plane that will serve you well in return for as low as 30 bucks including postage plus an hour or so to fettle it.

[Bob Smalser]

Stanley 7's and 8's...anywhere from 50-60 bucks for a decent, uncracked one.

Sure, you can pay more either on Ebay or from some prestige maker...but why? Highland Hardware has totes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142980897&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=4351966490&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148277151&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4123&item=6148733082&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148427746&rd=1

Heck...there are 30 more there but you get the drift.

I beat the collectors out of most of my tools on Ebay at exceptional prices without problem....takes patience, a seller with a reputation to protect, and some study to figure what's not hot with collectors.

There are also transitionals that are just as effective as cast iron planes but for less money:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142984021&rd=1

http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/1d/c0/24_1_b.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149445383&rd=1

There are also woodies which also will serve well for even less money than transitionals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148983627&rd=1

http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/sam75rider/.mids/3plane1.JPG

The bottom line is that you can get away with a plane that will serve you well in return for as low as 30 bucks including postage plus an hour or so to fettle it.

[Bob Smalser]

Stanley 7's and 8's...anywhere from 50-60 bucks for a decent, uncracked one.

Sure, you can pay more either on Ebay or from some prestige maker...but why? Highland Hardware has totes:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142980897&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=4351966490&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148277151&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4123&item=6148733082&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148427746&rd=1

Heck...there are 30 more there but you get the drift.

I beat the collectors out of most of my tools on Ebay at exceptional prices without problem....takes patience, a seller with a reputation to protect, and some study to figure what's not hot with collectors.

There are also transitionals that are just as effective as cast iron planes but for less money:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6142984021&rd=1

http://i10.ebayimg.com/03/i/03/1d/c0/24_1_b.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6149445383&rd=1

There are also woodies which also will serve well for even less money than transitionals.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=13874&item=6148983627&rd=1

http://imagehost.vendio.com/bin/imageserver.x/00000000/sam75rider/.mids/3plane1.JPG

The bottom line is that you can get away with a plane that will serve you well in return for as low as 30 bucks including postage plus an hour or so to fettle it.

[Donn]

.

[Donn]

.

[Donn]

.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

There's another reason to get a metal No. 7 and Bob's just illustrated it!

You can use it to true up the soles of wooden planes. Bob and Co got me started on wooden planes last year and I am now an enthusiast - they can be very cheap.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

There's another reason to get a metal No. 7 and Bob's just illustrated it!

You can use it to true up the soles of wooden planes. Bob and Co got me started on wooden planes last year and I am now an enthusiast - they can be very cheap.

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

There's another reason to get a metal No. 7 and Bob's just illustrated it!

You can use it to true up the soles of wooden planes. Bob and Co got me started on wooden planes last year and I am now an enthusiast - they can be very cheap.

[John Hastie]

Andrew, I agree.

I picked up a Sargeant transitional plane for $20 a few years ago. Cleaning up the sole took one light pass through my jointer. The previous owner edge-planed a slight groove into the sole.

It is the only wooden bottomed plane I own and it is delightful to use. Completely differant feel.

[John Hastie]

Andrew, I agree.

I picked up a Sargeant transitional plane for $20 a few years ago. Cleaning up the sole took one light pass through my jointer. The previous owner edge-planed a slight groove into the sole.

It is the only wooden bottomed plane I own and it is delightful to use. Completely differant feel.

[John Hastie]

Andrew, I agree.

I picked up a Sargeant transitional plane for $20 a few years ago. Cleaning up the sole took one light pass through my jointer. The previous owner edge-planed a slight groove into the sole.

It is the only wooden bottomed plane I own and it is delightful to use. Completely differant feel.

[Brian Palmer]

I've got a No. 8 that my Dad got at a yard sale for $1.00 about 20 years ago and have used it for exactly your type of job. Once you get it moving, its own mass takes the shaving. Makes great scarf joints very easily.

-- Brian

[Brian Palmer]

I've got a No. 8 that my Dad got at a yard sale for $1.00 about 20 years ago and have used it for exactly your type of job. Once you get it moving, its own mass takes the shaving. Makes great scarf joints very easily.

-- Brian

[Brian Palmer]

I've got a No. 8 that my Dad got at a yard sale for $1.00 about 20 years ago and have used it for exactly your type of job. Once you get it moving, its own mass takes the shaving. Makes great scarf joints very easily.

-- Brian