shop heaters and safety -- propane vs electric

[Charles Neuman]

I converted my outdoor awning to a shop space by framing it and enclosing it in plastic (some day I'll post pictures). Now I need to heat it. I can open the door to the house to let a bunch of heat into the shop area, but then the house gets cold. I'd like a heater that can at least keep the temperature above 40 while I'm working in there. Sometimes I might need longer periods of heat while epoxy cures.

I originally considered electric heaters because I thought they were safe. For example, if there are flammable fumes in the shop, I didn't want to have an open flame. But now that I think about it, a good electric heater might get hot enough to ignite fumes anyway. So why not consider a propane heater, which is probably more efficient and won't blow a fuse. I was told to avoid kerosene because it leaves particles.

Any ideas? Is a propane heater more dangerous than an electric heater? Any other issues you can think of? Or opinions?

Thanks,

Charles

[Charles Neuman]

I converted my outdoor awning to a shop space by framing it and enclosing it in plastic (some day I'll post pictures). Now I need to heat it. I can open the door to the house to let a bunch of heat into the shop area, but then the house gets cold. I'd like a heater that can at least keep the temperature above 40 while I'm working in there. Sometimes I might need longer periods of heat while epoxy cures.

I originally considered electric heaters because I thought they were safe. For example, if there are flammable fumes in the shop, I didn't want to have an open flame. But now that I think about it, a good electric heater might get hot enough to ignite fumes anyway. So why not consider a propane heater, which is probably more efficient and won't blow a fuse. I was told to avoid kerosene because it leaves particles.

Any ideas? Is a propane heater more dangerous than an electric heater? Any other issues you can think of? Or opinions?

Thanks,

Charles

[Charles Neuman]

I converted my outdoor awning to a shop space by framing it and enclosing it in plastic (some day I'll post pictures). Now I need to heat it. I can open the door to the house to let a bunch of heat into the shop area, but then the house gets cold. I'd like a heater that can at least keep the temperature above 40 while I'm working in there. Sometimes I might need longer periods of heat while epoxy cures.

I originally considered electric heaters because I thought they were safe. For example, if there are flammable fumes in the shop, I didn't want to have an open flame. But now that I think about it, a good electric heater might get hot enough to ignite fumes anyway. So why not consider a propane heater, which is probably more efficient and won't blow a fuse. I was told to avoid kerosene because it leaves particles.

Any ideas? Is a propane heater more dangerous than an electric heater? Any other issues you can think of? Or opinions?

Thanks,

Charles

[capt jake]

Propane will give off water vapor(as a by-product of combustion). It will consume the O2 in the area, so a source of make-up air will need to be provided for.

As far as electric, find out the vapor density of the 'fumes' that you may encounter. For instance, gasoline is heavier than air, settles to the ground; you would want to elevate the heat source above that area.

Others that have a vapor density equal to or near air will readily mix with it, thus they would be dispersed in the whle area. In this case moving the heat source would provide no measure of added safety.

What about one of the radiant electric heaters? The type that heat an oil mixture and look like an old radiator?

[capt jake]

Propane will give off water vapor(as a by-product of combustion). It will consume the O2 in the area, so a source of make-up air will need to be provided for.

As far as electric, find out the vapor density of the 'fumes' that you may encounter. For instance, gasoline is heavier than air, settles to the ground; you would want to elevate the heat source above that area.

Others that have a vapor density equal to or near air will readily mix with it, thus they would be dispersed in the whle area. In this case moving the heat source would provide no measure of added safety.

What about one of the radiant electric heaters? The type that heat an oil mixture and look like an old radiator?

[capt jake]

Propane will give off water vapor(as a by-product of combustion). It will consume the O2 in the area, so a source of make-up air will need to be provided for.

As far as electric, find out the vapor density of the 'fumes' that you may encounter. For instance, gasoline is heavier than air, settles to the ground; you would want to elevate the heat source above that area.

Others that have a vapor density equal to or near air will readily mix with it, thus they would be dispersed in the whle area. In this case moving the heat source would provide no measure of added safety.

What about one of the radiant electric heaters? The type that heat an oil mixture and look like an old radiator?

[Canoeyawl]

I use a Graingers direct vent sealed combustion LP gas heater in my shop/barn. (Wall mounted, and vents through the wall) The fumes from the shop can not come in contact with the combustion, there are two separate chambers. No carbon monoxide worries and no explosion worries. It has worked well for me, but it does not get very cold here…Rarely in the 30’s. Mine is about 60,000 btu’s and uses 20 gallons of propane every two weeks.

[Canoeyawl]

I use a Graingers direct vent sealed combustion LP gas heater in my shop/barn. (Wall mounted, and vents through the wall) The fumes from the shop can not come in contact with the combustion, there are two separate chambers. No carbon monoxide worries and no explosion worries. It has worked well for me, but it does not get very cold here…Rarely in the 30’s. Mine is about 60,000 btu’s and uses 20 gallons of propane every two weeks.

[Canoeyawl]

I use a Graingers direct vent sealed combustion LP gas heater in my shop/barn. (Wall mounted, and vents through the wall) The fumes from the shop can not come in contact with the combustion, there are two separate chambers. No carbon monoxide worries and no explosion worries. It has worked well for me, but it does not get very cold here…Rarely in the 30’s. Mine is about 60,000 btu’s and uses 20 gallons of propane every two weeks.

[Dan Payne]

Besides fumes, all portable heaters find a way of being misdirected into a tarp, boat cover, dropcloth, or your temporary plastic walls, causing a fire. Every winter more than a handful of children die in fires when they cover
up a space heater with a blanket because they get to hot in the middle of the night. Consider building a mount, guard, or semi-enclosure of the unit to avoid this. Putting saftey ahead puts accidents behind.

[Dan Payne]

Besides fumes, all portable heaters find a way of being misdirected into a tarp, boat cover, dropcloth, or your temporary plastic walls, causing a fire. Every winter more than a handful of children die in fires when they cover
up a space heater with a blanket because they get to hot in the middle of the night. Consider building a mount, guard, or semi-enclosure of the unit to avoid this. Putting saftey ahead puts accidents behind.

[Dan Payne]

Besides fumes, all portable heaters find a way of being misdirected into a tarp, boat cover, dropcloth, or your temporary plastic walls, causing a fire. Every winter more than a handful of children die in fires when they cover
up a space heater with a blanket because they get to hot in the middle of the night. Consider building a mount, guard, or semi-enclosure of the unit to avoid this. Putting saftey ahead puts accidents behind.

[gert]

500W halogen construction lights.
Lots of light and "free" heat.

[gert]

500W halogen construction lights.
Lots of light and "free" heat.

[gert]

500W halogen construction lights.
Lots of light and "free" heat.

[Charles Neuman]

Great tips and ideas!

Now that I think about it, if I am worried about a propane heater igniting fumes, I should also be worried about any electrical device igniting the same fumes. So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. So that's more of an issue of getting used to working indoors more than anything. I miss summer.

As for oxygen depletion, I am looking at a Mr. Heat "Buddy" portable heater, which is designed for indoor use. It has a low oxygen sensor. People also recommend having a cracked window.
http://www.mrheater.com/upload/item/mh9bwhite.jpg

Product Link (http://www.mrheater.com/productdetail.asp?id=678)

An open flame still makes me nervous, but it could encourage me to have a clutter-free shop.

Charles

[ 11-24-2005, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Charles Neuman]

Great tips and ideas!

Now that I think about it, if I am worried about a propane heater igniting fumes, I should also be worried about any electrical device igniting the same fumes. So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. So that's more of an issue of getting used to working indoors more than anything. I miss summer.

As for oxygen depletion, I am looking at a Mr. Heat "Buddy" portable heater, which is designed for indoor use. It has a low oxygen sensor. People also recommend having a cracked window.
http://www.mrheater.com/upload/item/mh9bwhite.jpg

Product Link (http://www.mrheater.com/productdetail.asp?id=678)

An open flame still makes me nervous, but it could encourage me to have a clutter-free shop.

Charles

[ 11-24-2005, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Charles Neuman]

Great tips and ideas!

Now that I think about it, if I am worried about a propane heater igniting fumes, I should also be worried about any electrical device igniting the same fumes. So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. So that's more of an issue of getting used to working indoors more than anything. I miss summer.

As for oxygen depletion, I am looking at a Mr. Heat "Buddy" portable heater, which is designed for indoor use. It has a low oxygen sensor. People also recommend having a cracked window.
http://www.mrheater.com/upload/item/mh9bwhite.jpg

Product Link (http://www.mrheater.com/productdetail.asp?id=678)

An open flame still makes me nervous, but it could encourage me to have a clutter-free shop.

Charles

[ 11-24-2005, 05:26 PM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Figment]

I'm in a plastic-covered shed, in pretty much the same weather. Last winter I used a generic oil-filled electric radiator almost exclusively. Only when it was bitter cold did I bother to fire up the salamander for an hour in the morning, just to help the electric unit along.

I'm not saying it kept the WHOLE shed above 40 degrees, but it was good enough to warm the immediate workspace, and keep it warm long enough for epoxy to cure.

[Figment]

I'm in a plastic-covered shed, in pretty much the same weather. Last winter I used a generic oil-filled electric radiator almost exclusively. Only when it was bitter cold did I bother to fire up the salamander for an hour in the morning, just to help the electric unit along.

I'm not saying it kept the WHOLE shed above 40 degrees, but it was good enough to warm the immediate workspace, and keep it warm long enough for epoxy to cure.

[Figment]

I'm in a plastic-covered shed, in pretty much the same weather. Last winter I used a generic oil-filled electric radiator almost exclusively. Only when it was bitter cold did I bother to fire up the salamander for an hour in the morning, just to help the electric unit along.

I'm not saying it kept the WHOLE shed above 40 degrees, but it was good enough to warm the immediate workspace, and keep it warm long enough for epoxy to cure.

[Mrleft8]

How do you expect to do any work at 40f? :confused:

[Mrleft8]

How do you expect to do any work at 40f? :confused:

[Mrleft8]

How do you expect to do any work at 40f? :confused:

[capt jake]

So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. Not necessarily. It would depend upon the concentration fo the vapor. The amount of mineral spirit vapor you would need in order to have it ignite would be pretty high. You would probably be suffering ill physical effects long before it would ignite. Also, mineral spirits isn't really classified as flammable but it would be concidered combustible; meaning it has a much higher flash point than a flammable (gasoline as an example of flammable).

While we are at it, I have heard people who are gravely afraid of dust explosions. Yes, they are a bad, very bad thing, but here again, the concentration of the particulate needs to be pretty high as well as needing to be in the right form and particle size.

[capt jake]

So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. Not necessarily. It would depend upon the concentration fo the vapor. The amount of mineral spirit vapor you would need in order to have it ignite would be pretty high. You would probably be suffering ill physical effects long before it would ignite. Also, mineral spirits isn't really classified as flammable but it would be concidered combustible; meaning it has a much higher flash point than a flammable (gasoline as an example of flammable).

While we are at it, I have heard people who are gravely afraid of dust explosions. Yes, they are a bad, very bad thing, but here again, the concentration of the particulate needs to be pretty high as well as needing to be in the right form and particle size.

[capt jake]

So if I'm working with mineral spirits, for example, I suppose I should turn off heat and any electrical devices. Not necessarily. It would depend upon the concentration fo the vapor. The amount of mineral spirit vapor you would need in order to have it ignite would be pretty high. You would probably be suffering ill physical effects long before it would ignite. Also, mineral spirits isn't really classified as flammable but it would be concidered combustible; meaning it has a much higher flash point than a flammable (gasoline as an example of flammable).

While we are at it, I have heard people who are gravely afraid of dust explosions. Yes, they are a bad, very bad thing, but here again, the concentration of the particulate needs to be pretty high as well as needing to be in the right form and particle size.

[Charles Neuman]

Interesting. The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. (For example: Extinguish pilot lights when working with the stuff indoors.) I suppose that's the right thing to do until I learn more. I am already getting conflicting information on the net. It's just so much easier working outdoors...

Charles

[ 11-25-2005, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Charles Neuman]

Interesting. The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. (For example: Extinguish pilot lights when working with the stuff indoors.) I suppose that's the right thing to do until I learn more. I am already getting conflicting information on the net. It's just so much easier working outdoors...

Charles

[ 11-25-2005, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Charles Neuman]

Interesting. The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. (For example: Extinguish pilot lights when working with the stuff indoors.) I suppose that's the right thing to do until I learn more. I am already getting conflicting information on the net. It's just so much easier working outdoors...

Charles

[ 11-25-2005, 09:59 AM: Message edited by: Charles Neuman ]

[Railmeat]

Charles -

I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. I wouldn't recommend it for a shop. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. I believe the ads for it state that it is suitable for heating 200 sq. ft., but I think it is better suited for ice fishing shanties and other really small spaces. It didn't raise the temp in my 2-car garage even 1 degree.

Don

[Railmeat]

Charles -

I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. I wouldn't recommend it for a shop. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. I believe the ads for it state that it is suitable for heating 200 sq. ft., but I think it is better suited for ice fishing shanties and other really small spaces. It didn't raise the temp in my 2-car garage even 1 degree.

Don

[Railmeat]

Charles -

I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. I wouldn't recommend it for a shop. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. I believe the ads for it state that it is suitable for heating 200 sq. ft., but I think it is better suited for ice fishing shanties and other really small spaces. It didn't raise the temp in my 2-car garage even 1 degree.

Don

[capt jake]

The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. I am not saying to ignore the warning labels, but in this 'legal' society, everything is CYA, if you follow my drift. ;) A little common sense goes a long way, it seems to be in short supply sometimes though. ;)

[capt jake]

The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. I am not saying to ignore the warning labels, but in this 'legal' society, everything is CYA, if you follow my drift. ;) A little common sense goes a long way, it seems to be in short supply sometimes though. ;)

[capt jake]

The warning labels on these kinds of things make me not want to take any chances. I am not saying to ignore the warning labels, but in this 'legal' society, everything is CYA, if you follow my drift. ;) A little common sense goes a long way, it seems to be in short supply sometimes though. ;)

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Railmeat:
I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. These are radient heaters, which warm you but not the air. Convection heaters warm the air, usually by blowing air across an element with a fan.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Railmeat:
I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. These are radient heaters, which warm you but not the air. Convection heaters warm the air, usually by blowing air across an element with a fan.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Railmeat:
I too bought one of those Mr. Heater "Buddies" a couple of years ago. While it is safe for indoor use, it doesn't make a dent in the room temp. These are radient heaters, which warm you but not the air. Convection heaters warm the air, usually by blowing air across an element with a fan.

[Railmeat]

Right now I have one of those propane tank-top heaters, but was thinking of getting one of these. Amazon has it listed for $149.00. Made for garages, no outside venting, and it has an oxygen sensor. I just don't know how much propane it will go through (meaning, if I have to refill my 20-lb tank every 6 hours, it's not worth it).

Don
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb834e78a2b477d243df3771d3f1c43b8/f14f16ea.jpg

[Railmeat]

Right now I have one of those propane tank-top heaters, but was thinking of getting one of these. Amazon has it listed for $149.00. Made for garages, no outside venting, and it has an oxygen sensor. I just don't know how much propane it will go through (meaning, if I have to refill my 20-lb tank every 6 hours, it's not worth it).

Don
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb834e78a2b477d243df3771d3f1c43b8/f14f16ea.jpg

[Railmeat]

Right now I have one of those propane tank-top heaters, but was thinking of getting one of these. Amazon has it listed for $149.00. Made for garages, no outside venting, and it has an oxygen sensor. I just don't know how much propane it will go through (meaning, if I have to refill my 20-lb tank every 6 hours, it's not worth it).

Don
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid195/pb834e78a2b477d243df3771d3f1c43b8/f14f16ea.jpg

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I use the small box type electric heater in my shop,(220) hanging from a bracket on the ceiling.... but the shop is insulated heavily.

Kerosene is a good heat source... but don't buy Kerosene from a hardware store. See if you can find it from a heating company... someone who is buying it in tank quantity. We have a gas station in town that has a kerosene pump... and it's WHITE, so it burns very clean. I had a big ceramic wick kerosene heater for a few years in a shop and it worked great.

I doubt you would get the concentration of vapor needed to start a fire that way.

Spend a little extra dough on closing in your carport... A heavy tarp, some reclaimed panelling, whatever... even some styrofoam contact cemented to some strapping then screwed up.. it will help immensely. Keep in mind you have almost total heat loss in the current arrangement.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I use the small box type electric heater in my shop,(220) hanging from a bracket on the ceiling.... but the shop is insulated heavily.

Kerosene is a good heat source... but don't buy Kerosene from a hardware store. See if you can find it from a heating company... someone who is buying it in tank quantity. We have a gas station in town that has a kerosene pump... and it's WHITE, so it burns very clean. I had a big ceramic wick kerosene heater for a few years in a shop and it worked great.

I doubt you would get the concentration of vapor needed to start a fire that way.

Spend a little extra dough on closing in your carport... A heavy tarp, some reclaimed panelling, whatever... even some styrofoam contact cemented to some strapping then screwed up.. it will help immensely. Keep in mind you have almost total heat loss in the current arrangement.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I use the small box type electric heater in my shop,(220) hanging from a bracket on the ceiling.... but the shop is insulated heavily.

Kerosene is a good heat source... but don't buy Kerosene from a hardware store. See if you can find it from a heating company... someone who is buying it in tank quantity. We have a gas station in town that has a kerosene pump... and it's WHITE, so it burns very clean. I had a big ceramic wick kerosene heater for a few years in a shop and it worked great.

I doubt you would get the concentration of vapor needed to start a fire that way.

Spend a little extra dough on closing in your carport... A heavy tarp, some reclaimed panelling, whatever... even some styrofoam contact cemented to some strapping then screwed up.. it will help immensely. Keep in mind you have almost total heat loss in the current arrangement.

[Ken Hutchins]

All these thoughts of adding potentially dangerous heaters IMO opinion is the wrong way to add heat to a workshop. The other option and one which is the safest is to add a zone to the current house heating system either hot air or hot water. Even with a fair distance between the house and the shop, super insulated pipes or air ducts would work fine. The house system should be capable of the extra load because usually you will need the heat in the shop during times when the heat load for the house is low.

[Ken Hutchins]

All these thoughts of adding potentially dangerous heaters IMO opinion is the wrong way to add heat to a workshop. The other option and one which is the safest is to add a zone to the current house heating system either hot air or hot water. Even with a fair distance between the house and the shop, super insulated pipes or air ducts would work fine. The house system should be capable of the extra load because usually you will need the heat in the shop during times when the heat load for the house is low.

[Ken Hutchins]

All these thoughts of adding potentially dangerous heaters IMO opinion is the wrong way to add heat to a workshop. The other option and one which is the safest is to add a zone to the current house heating system either hot air or hot water. Even with a fair distance between the house and the shop, super insulated pipes or air ducts would work fine. The house system should be capable of the extra load because usually you will need the heat in the shop during times when the heat load for the house is low.

[merlinron]

if your garge is attatched to your house,you might not need to add on to your heating system. an easy method can be done by using a ducted assist fan to transfer heat from the house to the garage. these are little fans that work inside a 8 inch round duct to help move heated air in long duct runs. a 6x16 duct grill and 8" boot attatched to a short piece of insulated duct and a fan put up by the ceiling on an adacent inside wall of your house will transfer all that dead warm air to your garage. you can put them in your ceiling anywhere you notice a buildup of warm air and duct it with inulated foil flex duct in your attic to your garage ceiling as well. put the fan on a switch in your garage and you can control when it pumps heat to your garage. a duct damper can be installed in line to stop the cold garge air from transfering to the house when you're not heating the garge. i have two of these in my house and they keep my garge warm enough to work in an quilted shirt unless the temp drops below zero, then leaky garage doors overtake the fans. if you want to get fancy, there are low voltage relays that will run the fan in conjunction to the blower on your furnace(the way they are normally set up during installation in a new home), if there's a way to run the wiring back to your furnace.

[ 11-27-2005, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[merlinron]

if your garge is attatched to your house,you might not need to add on to your heating system. an easy method can be done by using a ducted assist fan to transfer heat from the house to the garage. these are little fans that work inside a 8 inch round duct to help move heated air in long duct runs. a 6x16 duct grill and 8" boot attatched to a short piece of insulated duct and a fan put up by the ceiling on an adacent inside wall of your house will transfer all that dead warm air to your garage. you can put them in your ceiling anywhere you notice a buildup of warm air and duct it with inulated foil flex duct in your attic to your garage ceiling as well. put the fan on a switch in your garage and you can control when it pumps heat to your garage. a duct damper can be installed in line to stop the cold garge air from transfering to the house when you're not heating the garge. i have two of these in my house and they keep my garge warm enough to work in an quilted shirt unless the temp drops below zero, then leaky garage doors overtake the fans. if you want to get fancy, there are low voltage relays that will run the fan in conjunction to the blower on your furnace(the way they are normally set up during installation in a new home), if there's a way to run the wiring back to your furnace.

[ 11-27-2005, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[merlinron]

if your garge is attatched to your house,you might not need to add on to your heating system. an easy method can be done by using a ducted assist fan to transfer heat from the house to the garage. these are little fans that work inside a 8 inch round duct to help move heated air in long duct runs. a 6x16 duct grill and 8" boot attatched to a short piece of insulated duct and a fan put up by the ceiling on an adacent inside wall of your house will transfer all that dead warm air to your garage. you can put them in your ceiling anywhere you notice a buildup of warm air and duct it with inulated foil flex duct in your attic to your garage ceiling as well. put the fan on a switch in your garage and you can control when it pumps heat to your garage. a duct damper can be installed in line to stop the cold garge air from transfering to the house when you're not heating the garge. i have two of these in my house and they keep my garge warm enough to work in an quilted shirt unless the temp drops below zero, then leaky garage doors overtake the fans. if you want to get fancy, there are low voltage relays that will run the fan in conjunction to the blower on your furnace(the way they are normally set up during installation in a new home), if there's a way to run the wiring back to your furnace.

[ 11-27-2005, 10:46 AM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[Dave Hadfield]

A wood-burning stove is pretty nice. That's what I use in my shop. I have a 220v construction electric heater to keep the temp just above freezing, and when I want to work, I fire up the wood stove.

Not practical for everyone, I know, but a very pleasant way to heat a workspace.

[Dave Hadfield]

A wood-burning stove is pretty nice. That's what I use in my shop. I have a 220v construction electric heater to keep the temp just above freezing, and when I want to work, I fire up the wood stove.

Not practical for everyone, I know, but a very pleasant way to heat a workspace.

[Dave Hadfield]

A wood-burning stove is pretty nice. That's what I use in my shop. I have a 220v construction electric heater to keep the temp just above freezing, and when I want to work, I fire up the wood stove.

Not practical for everyone, I know, but a very pleasant way to heat a workspace.

[coelacanth]

I've had kero heaters and they always gave me a headache after a couple of hours-even though the wicks were new and adjusted for a clean burn. My shop is 20 X 40 with 15' sidewalls and no insulation as of yet. Procured one of those propane convection heaters and had the fuel co. hook it up to the BIG tank in the backyard-with a couple of fans, it does take the chill off quickly. Am presently making a couple of solar hotbox heaters- will keep you posted. My vote would be for gas-at full throttle, it will warm the space now andturned down will warm the space later, also, after you enclose and insulate

[coelacanth]

I've had kero heaters and they always gave me a headache after a couple of hours-even though the wicks were new and adjusted for a clean burn. My shop is 20 X 40 with 15' sidewalls and no insulation as of yet. Procured one of those propane convection heaters and had the fuel co. hook it up to the BIG tank in the backyard-with a couple of fans, it does take the chill off quickly. Am presently making a couple of solar hotbox heaters- will keep you posted. My vote would be for gas-at full throttle, it will warm the space now andturned down will warm the space later, also, after you enclose and insulate

[coelacanth]

I've had kero heaters and they always gave me a headache after a couple of hours-even though the wicks were new and adjusted for a clean burn. My shop is 20 X 40 with 15' sidewalls and no insulation as of yet. Procured one of those propane convection heaters and had the fuel co. hook it up to the BIG tank in the backyard-with a couple of fans, it does take the chill off quickly. Am presently making a couple of solar hotbox heaters- will keep you posted. My vote would be for gas-at full throttle, it will warm the space now andturned down will warm the space later, also, after you enclose and insulate

[Bruce Hooke]

The current issue of Fine Woodworking takes a good look at the various options for heating a workshop...

[Bruce Hooke]

The current issue of Fine Woodworking takes a good look at the various options for heating a workshop...

[Bruce Hooke]

The current issue of Fine Woodworking takes a good look at the various options for heating a workshop...