Blades for table saw...

[NormMessinger]

What brand do you like? Carbide teeth, thin kerf.

I looked in one of the catalogues today and found Forrester 10" blades for around $120 each, Freud (sp?) for a third that. Why such a difference?

The one I'm using, can't remember the brand, from the local saw sharpening shop, for even less seems plenty good enough. Well, I cut a few pieces of bronze with it a while back so it's response to the ash I cut yesterday suggests it might need sharpening.

[NormMessinger]

What brand do you like? Carbide teeth, thin kerf.

I looked in one of the catalogues today and found Forrester 10" blades for around $120 each, Freud (sp?) for a third that. Why such a difference?

The one I'm using, can't remember the brand, from the local saw sharpening shop, for even less seems plenty good enough. Well, I cut a few pieces of bronze with it a while back so it's response to the ash I cut yesterday suggests it might need sharpening.

[NormMessinger]

What brand do you like? Carbide teeth, thin kerf.

I looked in one of the catalogues today and found Forrester 10" blades for around $120 each, Freud (sp?) for a third that. Why such a difference?

The one I'm using, can't remember the brand, from the local saw sharpening shop, for even less seems plenty good enough. Well, I cut a few pieces of bronze with it a while back so it's response to the ash I cut yesterday suggests it might need sharpening.

[John Teetsel]

Dave Carnell says some interesting things about his favorite saw blades at his web site.

Haven't tried his recomendation, but Freud gets my business. I use a carbide combo most of the time and switch to a carbide rip if cutting more than a few feet. Clean frequently with Simple Green.

Here's a link to a comparison test from American Woodworker. Date's '96 but how much has changed in saw blades?

http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html

[John Teetsel]

Dave Carnell says some interesting things about his favorite saw blades at his web site.

Haven't tried his recomendation, but Freud gets my business. I use a carbide combo most of the time and switch to a carbide rip if cutting more than a few feet. Clean frequently with Simple Green.

Here's a link to a comparison test from American Woodworker. Date's '96 but how much has changed in saw blades?

http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html

[John Teetsel]

Dave Carnell says some interesting things about his favorite saw blades at his web site.

Haven't tried his recomendation, but Freud gets my business. I use a carbide combo most of the time and switch to a carbide rip if cutting more than a few feet. Clean frequently with Simple Green.

Here's a link to a comparison test from American Woodworker. Date's '96 but how much has changed in saw blades?

http://www.woodnet.net/toolreviews/blad_rev.html

[Bob Perkins]

Norm,

I use the Forest blade and I'm very happy with it. It has always performed well and I did notice the difference when I stopped using my old blade and went to the Forest. The WoodworkerII does a great job on the crosscut and rip.

For a less expensive option - I've used a Dewalt blade and it works very nice.

Finally - I have a blade that I really like that leaves a square slot with a flat bottom (Good for box joints, etc..) from Ridge Carbide Tool (Sold by in-line industries) It cuts just as nice as the Forest for less money.

I've also used the Forest thin kerf, it's good for cutting strips - but you can ring the blade now and then.

[Bob Perkins]

Norm,

I use the Forest blade and I'm very happy with it. It has always performed well and I did notice the difference when I stopped using my old blade and went to the Forest. The WoodworkerII does a great job on the crosscut and rip.

For a less expensive option - I've used a Dewalt blade and it works very nice.

Finally - I have a blade that I really like that leaves a square slot with a flat bottom (Good for box joints, etc..) from Ridge Carbide Tool (Sold by in-line industries) It cuts just as nice as the Forest for less money.

I've also used the Forest thin kerf, it's good for cutting strips - but you can ring the blade now and then.

[Bob Perkins]

Norm,

I use the Forest blade and I'm very happy with it. It has always performed well and I did notice the difference when I stopped using my old blade and went to the Forest. The WoodworkerII does a great job on the crosscut and rip.

For a less expensive option - I've used a Dewalt blade and it works very nice.

Finally - I have a blade that I really like that leaves a square slot with a flat bottom (Good for box joints, etc..) from Ridge Carbide Tool (Sold by in-line industries) It cuts just as nice as the Forest for less money.

I've also used the Forest thin kerf, it's good for cutting strips - but you can ring the blade now and then.

[cs]

Norm I will give a thumbs up to the Freud blade. I bought one for my circular saw while cutting pressure treated stuff on my deck and I loved it.

Chad

[cs]

Norm I will give a thumbs up to the Freud blade. I bought one for my circular saw while cutting pressure treated stuff on my deck and I loved it.

Chad

[cs]

Norm I will give a thumbs up to the Freud blade. I bought one for my circular saw while cutting pressure treated stuff on my deck and I loved it.

Chad

[bret]

Also running Freud 40t and 80t blades. My saw is a 1-1/2hp and thin kerf are the only way to go.

[bret]

Also running Freud 40t and 80t blades. My saw is a 1-1/2hp and thin kerf are the only way to go.

[bret]

Also running Freud 40t and 80t blades. My saw is a 1-1/2hp and thin kerf are the only way to go.

[Frank Wentzel]

Bob

What do you mean by "ring the blade"?

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Bob

What do you mean by "ring the blade"?

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Bob

What do you mean by "ring the blade"?

/// Frank ///

[Mrleft8]

I like Amana blades. I used to be a Freud buyer, but I've found them to be less than flat sometimes. Forrest blades are very nice, but expensive. CMT makes nice blades too.

[Mrleft8]

I like Amana blades. I used to be a Freud buyer, but I've found them to be less than flat sometimes. Forrest blades are very nice, but expensive. CMT makes nice blades too.

[Mrleft8]

I like Amana blades. I used to be a Freud buyer, but I've found them to be less than flat sometimes. Forrest blades are very nice, but expensive. CMT makes nice blades too.

[Bruce Hooke]

My best sawblades are Systematic, from Woodcraft and they have served me quite well. I also have a mix of other lesser sawblades for when I need to do things like cut brass or aluminium, or lots of construction grade lumber. I try never to let my good blades get near any metal, and I try to avoid using them for lots of rough cutting too. It is pointless to have good blades if you are not going to keep them in tip-top condition.

In terms of what blades to get and how much to spend, a lot depends on what you are trying to do. If you regularly crosscut cabinet grade plywood for uses where the slightest splintering along the cut would show in the finished work then the best blade you can get will be well worth the money spent. On the other hand, if your tablesaw is mostly used to rough cut stock and almost everything is worked some more after it leaves the saw, or if you simply do not need a perfect cut, then cheaper blades will work just fine and you won't have to worry so much about how you treat them. In addition, there isn't much point in buying $120 tablesaw blades for a low-end tablesaw because the failings of the saw will pretty much cancel out the quality of the blade and then some.

Finally, if you want really nice cuts from your tablesaw then you need to make sure it is tuned up. Fine Woodworking has had some good pieces on tuning up tablesaws over the years and I am sure there are books that cover the subject too.

On the other hand, if you are happy with the quality of the cuts you are getting then why change anything?

[Bruce Hooke]

My best sawblades are Systematic, from Woodcraft and they have served me quite well. I also have a mix of other lesser sawblades for when I need to do things like cut brass or aluminium, or lots of construction grade lumber. I try never to let my good blades get near any metal, and I try to avoid using them for lots of rough cutting too. It is pointless to have good blades if you are not going to keep them in tip-top condition.

In terms of what blades to get and how much to spend, a lot depends on what you are trying to do. If you regularly crosscut cabinet grade plywood for uses where the slightest splintering along the cut would show in the finished work then the best blade you can get will be well worth the money spent. On the other hand, if your tablesaw is mostly used to rough cut stock and almost everything is worked some more after it leaves the saw, or if you simply do not need a perfect cut, then cheaper blades will work just fine and you won't have to worry so much about how you treat them. In addition, there isn't much point in buying $120 tablesaw blades for a low-end tablesaw because the failings of the saw will pretty much cancel out the quality of the blade and then some.

Finally, if you want really nice cuts from your tablesaw then you need to make sure it is tuned up. Fine Woodworking has had some good pieces on tuning up tablesaws over the years and I am sure there are books that cover the subject too.

On the other hand, if you are happy with the quality of the cuts you are getting then why change anything?

[Bruce Hooke]

My best sawblades are Systematic, from Woodcraft and they have served me quite well. I also have a mix of other lesser sawblades for when I need to do things like cut brass or aluminium, or lots of construction grade lumber. I try never to let my good blades get near any metal, and I try to avoid using them for lots of rough cutting too. It is pointless to have good blades if you are not going to keep them in tip-top condition.

In terms of what blades to get and how much to spend, a lot depends on what you are trying to do. If you regularly crosscut cabinet grade plywood for uses where the slightest splintering along the cut would show in the finished work then the best blade you can get will be well worth the money spent. On the other hand, if your tablesaw is mostly used to rough cut stock and almost everything is worked some more after it leaves the saw, or if you simply do not need a perfect cut, then cheaper blades will work just fine and you won't have to worry so much about how you treat them. In addition, there isn't much point in buying $120 tablesaw blades for a low-end tablesaw because the failings of the saw will pretty much cancel out the quality of the blade and then some.

Finally, if you want really nice cuts from your tablesaw then you need to make sure it is tuned up. Fine Woodworking has had some good pieces on tuning up tablesaws over the years and I am sure there are books that cover the subject too.

On the other hand, if you are happy with the quality of the cuts you are getting then why change anything?

[frameshop]

Norm. I have a picture framing business where bad cuts are very costly. I use Forest blades exclusivley. PERIOD!!!!!!!!!! The difference is amazing. If I have no forest blades left and have to use another blade I can tell the difference immediatley. They are expensive, but, I don't get sloppy cuts and there is NO chipping of expensive finishes. I also find that 1: the blades stay sharp longer, 2: My small table saw cut better on hard woods with the forest blade than does my cabinet saw with other blades 3: blades sharpened by Forest seem to cut better than those sharpened by other sharpeners. In the long run Forest blades are cheaper. I am a convert. Roger :)

[frameshop]

Norm. I have a picture framing business where bad cuts are very costly. I use Forest blades exclusivley. PERIOD!!!!!!!!!! The difference is amazing. If I have no forest blades left and have to use another blade I can tell the difference immediatley. They are expensive, but, I don't get sloppy cuts and there is NO chipping of expensive finishes. I also find that 1: the blades stay sharp longer, 2: My small table saw cut better on hard woods with the forest blade than does my cabinet saw with other blades 3: blades sharpened by Forest seem to cut better than those sharpened by other sharpeners. In the long run Forest blades are cheaper. I am a convert. Roger :)

[frameshop]

Norm. I have a picture framing business where bad cuts are very costly. I use Forest blades exclusivley. PERIOD!!!!!!!!!! The difference is amazing. If I have no forest blades left and have to use another blade I can tell the difference immediatley. They are expensive, but, I don't get sloppy cuts and there is NO chipping of expensive finishes. I also find that 1: the blades stay sharp longer, 2: My small table saw cut better on hard woods with the forest blade than does my cabinet saw with other blades 3: blades sharpened by Forest seem to cut better than those sharpened by other sharpeners. In the long run Forest blades are cheaper. I am a convert. Roger :)

[NormMessinger]

Systematic. That is the blade I'm using. Danged if I could pull it out. I asked the guy at the sharpening shop why they sold them if they were in the sharpening business since the blade seemed to go without for so much longer than others I've used.

Good point about the quality of the saw vs the blade. Ya suppose my 1944 model Atlas is up to a Forester?

That is the sort of testimonial, Roger, a blade would need to justify the price. I doubt that I should put on on my saw.

Thanks for the instructive comments, all.

[NormMessinger]

Systematic. That is the blade I'm using. Danged if I could pull it out. I asked the guy at the sharpening shop why they sold them if they were in the sharpening business since the blade seemed to go without for so much longer than others I've used.

Good point about the quality of the saw vs the blade. Ya suppose my 1944 model Atlas is up to a Forester?

That is the sort of testimonial, Roger, a blade would need to justify the price. I doubt that I should put on on my saw.

Thanks for the instructive comments, all.

[NormMessinger]

Systematic. That is the blade I'm using. Danged if I could pull it out. I asked the guy at the sharpening shop why they sold them if they were in the sharpening business since the blade seemed to go without for so much longer than others I've used.

Good point about the quality of the saw vs the blade. Ya suppose my 1944 model Atlas is up to a Forester?

That is the sort of testimonial, Roger, a blade would need to justify the price. I doubt that I should put on on my saw.

Thanks for the instructive comments, all.

[Ron Williamson]

We just bought a Systimatic(sp?)that hasn't impressed me yet.It's sharp, but it seems to chisel it's way through,so the kerf is anything but smooth.We found the same thing with the Freud thin kerf rip that we donated to the jobsite chimps.We generally use blades by FS Tool,I don't know if they're in the US though.
R

[Ron Williamson]

We just bought a Systimatic(sp?)that hasn't impressed me yet.It's sharp, but it seems to chisel it's way through,so the kerf is anything but smooth.We found the same thing with the Freud thin kerf rip that we donated to the jobsite chimps.We generally use blades by FS Tool,I don't know if they're in the US though.
R

[Ron Williamson]

We just bought a Systimatic(sp?)that hasn't impressed me yet.It's sharp, but it seems to chisel it's way through,so the kerf is anything but smooth.We found the same thing with the Freud thin kerf rip that we donated to the jobsite chimps.We generally use blades by FS Tool,I don't know if they're in the US though.
R

[Dave Fleming]

8 and 10 inch TS blades: Forrest
12 inch and larger: Leitz, Leuco, Amana

For both TS and Chop type saws.

And yes, Forrest does an ***ACES*** job sharpening any make TCT saw blade, IMOOP, prices are reasonable. Just make sure, for peace of mind, that you make a nice sturdy blade container for shipping and return.

[Dave Fleming]

8 and 10 inch TS blades: Forrest
12 inch and larger: Leitz, Leuco, Amana

For both TS and Chop type saws.

And yes, Forrest does an ***ACES*** job sharpening any make TCT saw blade, IMOOP, prices are reasonable. Just make sure, for peace of mind, that you make a nice sturdy blade container for shipping and return.

[Dave Fleming]

8 and 10 inch TS blades: Forrest
12 inch and larger: Leitz, Leuco, Amana

For both TS and Chop type saws.

And yes, Forrest does an ***ACES*** job sharpening any make TCT saw blade, IMOOP, prices are reasonable. Just make sure, for peace of mind, that you make a nice sturdy blade container for shipping and return.

[Nicholas Carey]

A couple months back (well...more than a couple months: FWW #155, Mar/Apr 2002), Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/) magazine did a comparative review of high-end sawblades (it's on the shelf in the...ah...err...Reading Room :D

Smoothness-of-cut was measured with some high-end lab tool good down to the sub-micron level (dialling down the precision to something suitable for wood, obviously).

The Forrest, of course, came out on top, but there were a couple of others much more reasonably price that came close to the performance of the Forrest.

[ 09-26-2003, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

A couple months back (well...more than a couple months: FWW #155, Mar/Apr 2002), Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/) magazine did a comparative review of high-end sawblades (it's on the shelf in the...ah...err...Reading Room :D

Smoothness-of-cut was measured with some high-end lab tool good down to the sub-micron level (dialling down the precision to something suitable for wood, obviously).

The Forrest, of course, came out on top, but there were a couple of others much more reasonably price that came close to the performance of the Forrest.

[ 09-26-2003, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

A couple months back (well...more than a couple months: FWW #155, Mar/Apr 2002), Fine Woodworking (http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/) magazine did a comparative review of high-end sawblades (it's on the shelf in the...ah...err...Reading Room :D

Smoothness-of-cut was measured with some high-end lab tool good down to the sub-micron level (dialling down the precision to something suitable for wood, obviously).

The Forrest, of course, came out on top, but there were a couple of others much more reasonably price that came close to the performance of the Forrest.

[ 09-26-2003, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]