View Full Version : Circular saws
After over a decade of use my Skill circular saw has finally bitten the bullet. Looks like I will need to replace it before to much longer. Now I don't want a worm drive because light weight and one hand operation is a must. I'm considering one of three brands right now, Milwauke, Porter Cable, & DeWalt.
Whatcha think?
Chad
After over a decade of use my Skill circular saw has finally bitten the bullet. Looks like I will need to replace it before to much longer. Now I don't want a worm drive because light weight and one hand operation is a must. I'm considering one of three brands right now, Milwauke, Porter Cable, & DeWalt.
Whatcha think?
Chad
After over a decade of use my Skill circular saw has finally bitten the bullet. Looks like I will need to replace it before to much longer. Now I don't want a worm drive because light weight and one hand operation is a must. I'm considering one of three brands right now, Milwauke, Porter Cable, & DeWalt.
Whatcha think?
Chad
NormMessinger
10-22-2003, 08:20 AM
Any of the above.
Mine is a Porter Cable but it harldly gets enough use to justify storing it. I'd have done as well with a reconditioned Craftsman for $29.99 but it sure is nice when I do need it.
NormMessinger
10-22-2003, 08:20 AM
Any of the above.
Mine is a Porter Cable but it harldly gets enough use to justify storing it. I'd have done as well with a reconditioned Craftsman for $29.99 but it sure is nice when I do need it.
NormMessinger
10-22-2003, 08:20 AM
Any of the above.
Mine is a Porter Cable but it harldly gets enough use to justify storing it. I'd have done as well with a reconditioned Craftsman for $29.99 but it sure is nice when I do need it.
Popeye
10-22-2003, 08:26 AM
I got a Makita, and you can have it when you can wrench it from my dead cold hands. smile.gif
Popeye
10-22-2003, 08:26 AM
I got a Makita, and you can have it when you can wrench it from my dead cold hands. smile.gif
Popeye
10-22-2003, 08:26 AM
I got a Makita, and you can have it when you can wrench it from my dead cold hands. smile.gif
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 09:07 AM
I needed a new saw a few years ago and ended up buying the Bosch. I'm happy with it - powerful, precise, easy to change settings - but it's heavy. My friend bought the Porter-Cable and it's really nice, but much lighter than the Bosch. The Dewalts don't hold up to everyday use. Milwaukee are not as good as they used to be.
But not all Porter-Cable saws are the same. Home Depot sells the PC saw for about $15 less than Woodworkers Warehouse but if you look closely it's not the same saw! One is 14 amps the other is 15 amps. And the one from WWW has the electric brake and the HD one doesn't. I've had so many bad experiences with tools from Home Depot that I will never buy another tool from them. I'll go out of my way and pay more to buy the same tool somewhere else.
Steven
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 09:07 AM
I needed a new saw a few years ago and ended up buying the Bosch. I'm happy with it - powerful, precise, easy to change settings - but it's heavy. My friend bought the Porter-Cable and it's really nice, but much lighter than the Bosch. The Dewalts don't hold up to everyday use. Milwaukee are not as good as they used to be.
But not all Porter-Cable saws are the same. Home Depot sells the PC saw for about $15 less than Woodworkers Warehouse but if you look closely it's not the same saw! One is 14 amps the other is 15 amps. And the one from WWW has the electric brake and the HD one doesn't. I've had so many bad experiences with tools from Home Depot that I will never buy another tool from them. I'll go out of my way and pay more to buy the same tool somewhere else.
Steven
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 09:07 AM
I needed a new saw a few years ago and ended up buying the Bosch. I'm happy with it - powerful, precise, easy to change settings - but it's heavy. My friend bought the Porter-Cable and it's really nice, but much lighter than the Bosch. The Dewalts don't hold up to everyday use. Milwaukee are not as good as they used to be.
But not all Porter-Cable saws are the same. Home Depot sells the PC saw for about $15 less than Woodworkers Warehouse but if you look closely it's not the same saw! One is 14 amps the other is 15 amps. And the one from WWW has the electric brake and the HD one doesn't. I've had so many bad experiences with tools from Home Depot that I will never buy another tool from them. I'll go out of my way and pay more to buy the same tool somewhere else.
Steven
Coastal Tool lists the Porter-Cable 743K (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/pr743k.htm?L+coastest+qhpg1094ff644864+1066882742) as best in category. It's a left blade saw, weighing just over 10#, for $125.
FWIW...I find it easier to one-hand my worm drive Skil, than my older and much lighter Crapsman. I love the rear-mounted handle, and the saw practically pulls itself through the wood. The additional weight also helps keep the saw from kicking back when it hits a knot, or gets kerf-bound. The only thing that took some getting used to is the torque on starting.
Coastal Tool lists the Porter-Cable 743K (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/pr743k.htm?L+coastest+qhpg1094ff644864+1066882742) as best in category. It's a left blade saw, weighing just over 10#, for $125.
FWIW...I find it easier to one-hand my worm drive Skil, than my older and much lighter Crapsman. I love the rear-mounted handle, and the saw practically pulls itself through the wood. The additional weight also helps keep the saw from kicking back when it hits a knot, or gets kerf-bound. The only thing that took some getting used to is the torque on starting.
Coastal Tool lists the Porter-Cable 743K (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/port/pr743k.htm?L+coastest+qhpg1094ff644864+1066882742) as best in category. It's a left blade saw, weighing just over 10#, for $125.
FWIW...I find it easier to one-hand my worm drive Skil, than my older and much lighter Crapsman. I love the rear-mounted handle, and the saw practically pulls itself through the wood. The additional weight also helps keep the saw from kicking back when it hits a knot, or gets kerf-bound. The only thing that took some getting used to is the torque on starting.
Bob Perkins
10-22-2003, 10:06 AM
I have the Porter Cable. 7 1/2"
I like it very much, never an issue. The wrench stores in the handle and it comes with a case.
FWIW: I have the 18V cordless too - it comes in handy quite a bit outdoors. If you just need a quick cut. handles a 2 x 6 no problem..
Bob Perkins
10-22-2003, 10:06 AM
I have the Porter Cable. 7 1/2"
I like it very much, never an issue. The wrench stores in the handle and it comes with a case.
FWIW: I have the 18V cordless too - it comes in handy quite a bit outdoors. If you just need a quick cut. handles a 2 x 6 no problem..
Bob Perkins
10-22-2003, 10:06 AM
I have the Porter Cable. 7 1/2"
I like it very much, never an issue. The wrench stores in the handle and it comes with a case.
FWIW: I have the 18V cordless too - it comes in handy quite a bit outdoors. If you just need a quick cut. handles a 2 x 6 no problem..
Just got off the phone with a salesman at a tool store. We talked about several of the brands that he carrys. His Milwauke is priced @ $195 he said they have had the more trouble out of it than any other brand they carry. The DeWalt, Bosh, and Makati were more resonably priced ($115-$140). He recomended the Makati @ $115. Said it was the least trouble free that they had, and even came with a pair of work gloves.
But than what about the other end of the spectrum? I got over 10 years out of my $50 Skil. I could get a comprable saw for about $70, but would it be worth it?
Chad
edited to add:
I would get a worm drive if I was doing framing all the time, but that just ain't the case. I will typically do some vertical cutting with a circular saw and this is not pratical with a worm drive.
[ 10-22-2003, 10:48 AM: Message edited by: cs ]
Just got off the phone with a salesman at a tool store. We talked about several of the brands that he carrys. His Milwauke is priced @ $195 he said they have had the more trouble out of it than any other brand they carry. The DeWalt, Bosh, and Makati were more resonably priced ($115-$140). He recomended the Makati @ $115. Said it was the least trouble free that they had, and even came with a pair of work gloves.
But than what about the other end of the spectrum? I got over 10 years out of my $50 Skil. I could get a comprable saw for about $70, but would it be worth it?
Chad
edited to add:
I would get a worm drive if I was doing framing all the time, but that just ain't the case. I will typically do some vertical cutting with a circular saw and this is not pratical with a worm drive.
[ 10-22-2003, 10:48 AM: Message edited by: cs ]
Just got off the phone with a salesman at a tool store. We talked about several of the brands that he carrys. His Milwauke is priced @ $195 he said they have had the more trouble out of it than any other brand they carry. The DeWalt, Bosh, and Makati were more resonably priced ($115-$140). He recomended the Makati @ $115. Said it was the least trouble free that they had, and even came with a pair of work gloves.
But than what about the other end of the spectrum? I got over 10 years out of my $50 Skil. I could get a comprable saw for about $70, but would it be worth it?
Chad
edited to add:
I would get a worm drive if I was doing framing all the time, but that just ain't the case. I will typically do some vertical cutting with a circular saw and this is not pratical with a worm drive.
[ 10-22-2003, 10:48 AM: Message edited by: cs ]
Jim H
10-22-2003, 11:53 AM
I have the PC that Donn recommends, it's worth every penny. I'll probably be buried with it! ;)
Jim H
10-22-2003, 11:53 AM
I have the PC that Donn recommends, it's worth every penny. I'll probably be buried with it! ;)
Jim H
10-22-2003, 11:53 AM
I have the PC that Donn recommends, it's worth every penny. I'll probably be buried with it! ;)
gary porter
10-22-2003, 12:26 PM
Chad, when your looking at the different brands look close at the base. Porter Cable
and Bosch both have saws out now that have cast bases rather than the old stamped out ones . This makes for a much better base especially if your using a guide. I'd go with the Bosch but would have no trouble buying the PC either. Buy the one that feels the best to you and forget the money it will be with you for a long time.
Good Luck.
Gary
gary porter
10-22-2003, 12:26 PM
Chad, when your looking at the different brands look close at the base. Porter Cable
and Bosch both have saws out now that have cast bases rather than the old stamped out ones . This makes for a much better base especially if your using a guide. I'd go with the Bosch but would have no trouble buying the PC either. Buy the one that feels the best to you and forget the money it will be with you for a long time.
Good Luck.
Gary
gary porter
10-22-2003, 12:26 PM
Chad, when your looking at the different brands look close at the base. Porter Cable
and Bosch both have saws out now that have cast bases rather than the old stamped out ones . This makes for a much better base especially if your using a guide. I'd go with the Bosch but would have no trouble buying the PC either. Buy the one that feels the best to you and forget the money it will be with you for a long time.
Good Luck.
Gary
I guess this gives me a good reason to go to the hardware store and play with the toys, opps I mean tools. :D
Chad
I guess this gives me a good reason to go to the hardware store and play with the toys, opps I mean tools. :D
Chad
I guess this gives me a good reason to go to the hardware store and play with the toys, opps I mean tools. :D
Chad
I don't know about the DeWalt or Milwaukee, but the 6" Porter-Cable Saw Boss is an excellent saw...durable, compact, powerful and the blade is mounted on the left side.
I don't know about the DeWalt or Milwaukee, but the 6" Porter-Cable Saw Boss is an excellent saw...durable, compact, powerful and the blade is mounted on the left side.
I don't know about the DeWalt or Milwaukee, but the 6" Porter-Cable Saw Boss is an excellent saw...durable, compact, powerful and the blade is mounted on the left side.
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 10:47 PM
I have a PC Saw Boss, too. Great little saw but it's never been the same since that 20' long hemlock 8" x 12" beam fell on it. :(
Steven
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 10:47 PM
I have a PC Saw Boss, too. Great little saw but it's never been the same since that 20' long hemlock 8" x 12" beam fell on it. :(
Steven
imported_Steven Bauer
10-22-2003, 10:47 PM
I have a PC Saw Boss, too. Great little saw but it's never been the same since that 20' long hemlock 8" x 12" beam fell on it. :(
Steven
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 12:21 AM
Anyone who doesn't use a worm drive is either a wimp, or ignorant. :D
You are talking with a west coast carpenter here. We love our wormies.
Bosch's is the best, and light too.
I guarantee its easier to control a cut on the thinnest plywood with a worm drive than with a sidewinder. I'm sure you sidewinder users do a fine job, but its just easier with a wormie.
Just had a thought....I think worms are more stable because the blade turns on an axis that's 90 degrees apart from the motor. This makes all kinds of sense. Think gyro forces.
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 12:21 AM
Anyone who doesn't use a worm drive is either a wimp, or ignorant. :D
You are talking with a west coast carpenter here. We love our wormies.
Bosch's is the best, and light too.
I guarantee its easier to control a cut on the thinnest plywood with a worm drive than with a sidewinder. I'm sure you sidewinder users do a fine job, but its just easier with a wormie.
Just had a thought....I think worms are more stable because the blade turns on an axis that's 90 degrees apart from the motor. This makes all kinds of sense. Think gyro forces.
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 12:21 AM
Anyone who doesn't use a worm drive is either a wimp, or ignorant. :D
You are talking with a west coast carpenter here. We love our wormies.
Bosch's is the best, and light too.
I guarantee its easier to control a cut on the thinnest plywood with a worm drive than with a sidewinder. I'm sure you sidewinder users do a fine job, but its just easier with a wormie.
Just had a thought....I think worms are more stable because the blade turns on an axis that's 90 degrees apart from the motor. This makes all kinds of sense. Think gyro forces.
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
Chad
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
Chad
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
Chad
Mrleft8
10-23-2003, 09:01 AM
I've had PC, Milwaulkee, and DeWalt saws. IMHO, The DeWalt is the best of the 3. If you do any "finish cuts" though... You might want to look at the Festool saws. My DeWalt is now used only for rough cutting. The Festool with the guide rail, does as good, or better a job than my Unisaw. It's definately not for hacking off rafter tails while hanging by your toenails though.
Mrleft8
10-23-2003, 09:01 AM
I've had PC, Milwaulkee, and DeWalt saws. IMHO, The DeWalt is the best of the 3. If you do any "finish cuts" though... You might want to look at the Festool saws. My DeWalt is now used only for rough cutting. The Festool with the guide rail, does as good, or better a job than my Unisaw. It's definately not for hacking off rafter tails while hanging by your toenails though.
Mrleft8
10-23-2003, 09:01 AM
I've had PC, Milwaulkee, and DeWalt saws. IMHO, The DeWalt is the best of the 3. If you do any "finish cuts" though... You might want to look at the Festool saws. My DeWalt is now used only for rough cutting. The Festool with the guide rail, does as good, or better a job than my Unisaw. It's definately not for hacking off rafter tails while hanging by your toenails though.
Ed Harrow
10-23-2003, 09:21 AM
Chad, the PC is available either right-sided or left-sided. Nice saw, but for the really tough stuff I use Dumpster Sally.
Ed Harrow
10-23-2003, 09:21 AM
Chad, the PC is available either right-sided or left-sided. Nice saw, but for the really tough stuff I use Dumpster Sally.
Ed Harrow
10-23-2003, 09:21 AM
Chad, the PC is available either right-sided or left-sided. Nice saw, but for the really tough stuff I use Dumpster Sally.
Originally posted by cs:
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadIf you're right-handed, you'll wonder why all saws aren't made that way.
Originally posted by cs:
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadIf you're right-handed, you'll wonder why all saws aren't made that way.
Originally posted by cs:
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadIf you're right-handed, you'll wonder why all saws aren't made that way.
capt jake
10-23-2003, 10:53 AM
What Donn said in regards to getting used to it. It's automatic! smile.gif
In an effort to save cost, search around for a factory reconditioned outlet. We have several around, featuring all the major brands. I have several and have never had a problem with any of them. smile.gif I think my Saw Boss was $89, reconditioned. smile.gif
capt jake
10-23-2003, 10:53 AM
What Donn said in regards to getting used to it. It's automatic! smile.gif
In an effort to save cost, search around for a factory reconditioned outlet. We have several around, featuring all the major brands. I have several and have never had a problem with any of them. smile.gif I think my Saw Boss was $89, reconditioned. smile.gif
capt jake
10-23-2003, 10:53 AM
What Donn said in regards to getting used to it. It's automatic! smile.gif
In an effort to save cost, search around for a factory reconditioned outlet. We have several around, featuring all the major brands. I have several and have never had a problem with any of them. smile.gif I think my Saw Boss was $89, reconditioned. smile.gif
Venchka
10-23-2003, 11:10 AM
Another vote for the Porter Cable. Mine is the blade left model, but then I'm left handed, left eyed, left brained. You can get it either way, right or left blade. $119.95 at Lowe's and Home Depot with the spiffy case.
Venchka
10-23-2003, 11:10 AM
Another vote for the Porter Cable. Mine is the blade left model, but then I'm left handed, left eyed, left brained. You can get it either way, right or left blade. $119.95 at Lowe's and Home Depot with the spiffy case.
Venchka
10-23-2003, 11:10 AM
Another vote for the Porter Cable. Mine is the blade left model, but then I'm left handed, left eyed, left brained. You can get it either way, right or left blade. $119.95 at Lowe's and Home Depot with the spiffy case.
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 11:25 AM
Chad
My Makita is going on 16 years now and still great. The blade guard spring might need replacing or at least cleaning but that's been my only problem. I've used it infrequently but sometimes have abused it.
Do yourself a favor and get a contractor grade tool rather than a homeowner version. At the time I bought mine a friend had a lower end saw and it sucked to the point of being dangerous.
If you get any of the good saws it should last a good long time and you won't care about the extra $$ you spent.
I don't know what I'd buy if my saw died today. The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Pete
PS - post some pics of you dirt jumping your new BMX rig.
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 11:25 AM
Chad
My Makita is going on 16 years now and still great. The blade guard spring might need replacing or at least cleaning but that's been my only problem. I've used it infrequently but sometimes have abused it.
Do yourself a favor and get a contractor grade tool rather than a homeowner version. At the time I bought mine a friend had a lower end saw and it sucked to the point of being dangerous.
If you get any of the good saws it should last a good long time and you won't care about the extra $$ you spent.
I don't know what I'd buy if my saw died today. The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Pete
PS - post some pics of you dirt jumping your new BMX rig.
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 11:25 AM
Chad
My Makita is going on 16 years now and still great. The blade guard spring might need replacing or at least cleaning but that's been my only problem. I've used it infrequently but sometimes have abused it.
Do yourself a favor and get a contractor grade tool rather than a homeowner version. At the time I bought mine a friend had a lower end saw and it sucked to the point of being dangerous.
If you get any of the good saws it should last a good long time and you won't care about the extra $$ you spent.
I don't know what I'd buy if my saw died today. The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Pete
PS - post some pics of you dirt jumping your new BMX rig.
Bob Adams
10-23-2003, 05:05 PM
Porter Cable, hands down. I just replaced my Craftsman, and hadn't DeWalt's parent company, Balck & Decker, been busy abandoning the American worker in search of even higher profits, I'd have considered a DeWalt.
Bob Adams
10-23-2003, 05:05 PM
Porter Cable, hands down. I just replaced my Craftsman, and hadn't DeWalt's parent company, Balck & Decker, been busy abandoning the American worker in search of even higher profits, I'd have considered a DeWalt.
Bob Adams
10-23-2003, 05:05 PM
Porter Cable, hands down. I just replaced my Craftsman, and hadn't DeWalt's parent company, Balck & Decker, been busy abandoning the American worker in search of even higher profits, I'd have considered a DeWalt.
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:29 PM
I'm loving the PC too - I'm a righty, but the left hand version is just the best.....
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:29 PM
I'm loving the PC too - I'm a righty, but the left hand version is just the best.....
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:29 PM
I'm loving the PC too - I'm a righty, but the left hand version is just the best.....
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:30 PM
Oh yeah - anyone have any experience with that Festool plunging circ. with the guide accessory? Sounds awesome.....
I'm too poor to buy cheap tools......
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:30 PM
Oh yeah - anyone have any experience with that Festool plunging circ. with the guide accessory? Sounds awesome.....
I'm too poor to buy cheap tools......
BrianR
10-23-2003, 05:30 PM
Oh yeah - anyone have any experience with that Festool plunging circ. with the guide accessory? Sounds awesome.....
I'm too poor to buy cheap tools......
Brian...I think Lefty has one. See above.
Pete:
The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Probably a rank amateur question, but why is there a right or wrong side of the cut?
Brian...I think Lefty has one. See above.
Pete:
The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Probably a rank amateur question, but why is there a right or wrong side of the cut?
Brian...I think Lefty has one. See above.
Pete:
The left blade ones sound interesting. But for cutting 2x stock to length I'd stay with right blade as the weight of the tool won't be on the wrong side of the cut when you are done.
Probably a rank amateur question, but why is there a right or wrong side of the cut?
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 07:51 PM
With the right hand blade, and a right handed user, the motor, the weight, and the large part of the base plate will typically be over the supported part of the piece.
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 07:51 PM
With the right hand blade, and a right handed user, the motor, the weight, and the large part of the base plate will typically be over the supported part of the piece.
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 07:51 PM
With the right hand blade, and a right handed user, the motor, the weight, and the large part of the base plate will typically be over the supported part of the piece.
My old pappy taught me to support the whole piece of wood before sawing. I either use a sawing grid, or 2x supports on each end of the piece, and each side of the cut. (Well...most of the time. :D )
My old pappy taught me to support the whole piece of wood before sawing. I either use a sawing grid, or 2x supports on each end of the piece, and each side of the cut. (Well...most of the time. :D )
My old pappy taught me to support the whole piece of wood before sawing. I either use a sawing grid, or 2x supports on each end of the piece, and each side of the cut. (Well...most of the time. :D )
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 08:01 PM
Yeah, but when you're banging together framing it often doesn't work that way. I'm fairly good with a skilsaw, but have worked with some wizards, people who could saw framing on their knee all day long if need be. ;)
But really, cutting framing, typically you lay the stock on a horse(s) and whack the short end off, even if it's quite long.
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 08:01 PM
Yeah, but when you're banging together framing it often doesn't work that way. I'm fairly good with a skilsaw, but have worked with some wizards, people who could saw framing on their knee all day long if need be. ;)
But really, cutting framing, typically you lay the stock on a horse(s) and whack the short end off, even if it's quite long.
Jack Heinlen
10-23-2003, 08:01 PM
Yeah, but when you're banging together framing it often doesn't work that way. I'm fairly good with a skilsaw, but have worked with some wizards, people who could saw framing on their knee all day long if need be. ;)
But really, cutting framing, typically you lay the stock on a horse(s) and whack the short end off, even if it's quite long.
In an earlier thread on circular saws, someone said that every building site they ever saw had Skil 77's all over the site. That's been my experience as well, and now that I have one, I can see why. It eats wood..only needs to be steered, and never kicks back. Fine saw.
[ 10-23-2003, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: Donn ]
In an earlier thread on circular saws, someone said that every building site they ever saw had Skil 77's all over the site. That's been my experience as well, and now that I have one, I can see why. It eats wood..only needs to be steered, and never kicks back. Fine saw.
[ 10-23-2003, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: Donn ]
In an earlier thread on circular saws, someone said that every building site they ever saw had Skil 77's all over the site. That's been my experience as well, and now that I have one, I can see why. It eats wood..only needs to be steered, and never kicks back. Fine saw.
[ 10-23-2003, 08:10 PM: Message edited by: Donn ]
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 08:30 PM
When I built decks for a summer I used my left foot to prop the boards off the ground and my left hand to hold the speed square and the right to push the saw through with the base butting the speed square. In this scenario a left blade saw would have had the weight of the saw on the wrong side.
I usually try to support the wood better these days but often fall back to the old habits.
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 08:30 PM
When I built decks for a summer I used my left foot to prop the boards off the ground and my left hand to hold the speed square and the right to push the saw through with the base butting the speed square. In this scenario a left blade saw would have had the weight of the saw on the wrong side.
I usually try to support the wood better these days but often fall back to the old habits.
Pete Dorr
10-23-2003, 08:30 PM
When I built decks for a summer I used my left foot to prop the boards off the ground and my left hand to hold the speed square and the right to push the saw through with the base butting the speed square. In this scenario a left blade saw would have had the weight of the saw on the wrong side.
I usually try to support the wood better these days but often fall back to the old habits.
Dale Genther
10-23-2003, 08:32 PM
I Like Bob Perkins I have a 18 volt cordless (Dewalt) and a 115 vols AC circular saw. I don't do a lot of work with a circlular saw, but I always grab the cordless. It cuts plywood, 2 X 4 s, 2 X 6 s and 2 X 8 s just fine. It has been so long since I used the 115 volt saw I don't remember what make it is. If you are like me and finding a long enough extension cord, untangling it, plugging then putting it away (in some place where you can't find next time, of course)takes longer than the saw cut takes a cordless should be considered.
Dale Genther
10-23-2003, 08:32 PM
I Like Bob Perkins I have a 18 volt cordless (Dewalt) and a 115 vols AC circular saw. I don't do a lot of work with a circlular saw, but I always grab the cordless. It cuts plywood, 2 X 4 s, 2 X 6 s and 2 X 8 s just fine. It has been so long since I used the 115 volt saw I don't remember what make it is. If you are like me and finding a long enough extension cord, untangling it, plugging then putting it away (in some place where you can't find next time, of course)takes longer than the saw cut takes a cordless should be considered.
Dale Genther
10-23-2003, 08:32 PM
I Like Bob Perkins I have a 18 volt cordless (Dewalt) and a 115 vols AC circular saw. I don't do a lot of work with a circlular saw, but I always grab the cordless. It cuts plywood, 2 X 4 s, 2 X 6 s and 2 X 8 s just fine. It has been so long since I used the 115 volt saw I don't remember what make it is. If you are like me and finding a long enough extension cord, untangling it, plugging then putting it away (in some place where you can't find next time, of course)takes longer than the saw cut takes a cordless should be considered.
Brian,
I've used the Festool and it really is a great system. The guide is really amazing--you don't need to clamp it. It only has rubber runners on the bottom of it, but it really stays put! For ripping stain-grade material in the field, I'll take it over a portable table saw anytime. My experience is that the benchtop table saws get abused beyond belief on most commercial jobs--to the point that they're only practical for ripping up backing, etc. Plus, you need someone to catch the stock being ripped. With the Festool, you can set the stock up on a pair of horses, very quickly (and accurately) position the guide and get a very decent rip single-handedly if necessary. It's a very well engineered tool, in my opinion. But to buy one for home use, I'd find it difficult to justify the cost...I'd put that money toward a good table saw.
Doug T.
UBC Local 1977
Las Vegas, NV
(Neither wimpy, nor ignorant! :D )
Brian,
I've used the Festool and it really is a great system. The guide is really amazing--you don't need to clamp it. It only has rubber runners on the bottom of it, but it really stays put! For ripping stain-grade material in the field, I'll take it over a portable table saw anytime. My experience is that the benchtop table saws get abused beyond belief on most commercial jobs--to the point that they're only practical for ripping up backing, etc. Plus, you need someone to catch the stock being ripped. With the Festool, you can set the stock up on a pair of horses, very quickly (and accurately) position the guide and get a very decent rip single-handedly if necessary. It's a very well engineered tool, in my opinion. But to buy one for home use, I'd find it difficult to justify the cost...I'd put that money toward a good table saw.
Doug T.
UBC Local 1977
Las Vegas, NV
(Neither wimpy, nor ignorant! :D )
Brian,
I've used the Festool and it really is a great system. The guide is really amazing--you don't need to clamp it. It only has rubber runners on the bottom of it, but it really stays put! For ripping stain-grade material in the field, I'll take it over a portable table saw anytime. My experience is that the benchtop table saws get abused beyond belief on most commercial jobs--to the point that they're only practical for ripping up backing, etc. Plus, you need someone to catch the stock being ripped. With the Festool, you can set the stock up on a pair of horses, very quickly (and accurately) position the guide and get a very decent rip single-handedly if necessary. It's a very well engineered tool, in my opinion. But to buy one for home use, I'd find it difficult to justify the cost...I'd put that money toward a good table saw.
Doug T.
UBC Local 1977
Las Vegas, NV
(Neither wimpy, nor ignorant! :D )
Peter Malcolm Jardine
10-23-2003, 10:33 PM
I have two saws, an old all cast aluminum Skil 7 1/4 ball bearing and a Skil 8 1/4 ball bearing that is "new" as in 12 years old.Both are 13 amp. I like the extra capacity of the 81/4, but I use both of them a lot. I have high end freud blades in both. They've seen a lot of wood,siding, concrete, you name it.
If I were buying one now, I would probably buy the same one Donn has... the 77 is a well balanced (legendary) tough son of a bitch, that in home use you would NEVER replace but it depends on how much you use it... I do a lot of decks, barn work, heavy outside framing stuff. For me it has to be as powerful as a table saw in your hand..
2nd choice: The PC has a good rep...don't be cheap on the blade tho, makes the difference
Peter Malcolm Jardine
10-23-2003, 10:33 PM
I have two saws, an old all cast aluminum Skil 7 1/4 ball bearing and a Skil 8 1/4 ball bearing that is "new" as in 12 years old.Both are 13 amp. I like the extra capacity of the 81/4, but I use both of them a lot. I have high end freud blades in both. They've seen a lot of wood,siding, concrete, you name it.
If I were buying one now, I would probably buy the same one Donn has... the 77 is a well balanced (legendary) tough son of a bitch, that in home use you would NEVER replace but it depends on how much you use it... I do a lot of decks, barn work, heavy outside framing stuff. For me it has to be as powerful as a table saw in your hand..
2nd choice: The PC has a good rep...don't be cheap on the blade tho, makes the difference
Peter Malcolm Jardine
10-23-2003, 10:33 PM
I have two saws, an old all cast aluminum Skil 7 1/4 ball bearing and a Skil 8 1/4 ball bearing that is "new" as in 12 years old.Both are 13 amp. I like the extra capacity of the 81/4, but I use both of them a lot. I have high end freud blades in both. They've seen a lot of wood,siding, concrete, you name it.
If I were buying one now, I would probably buy the same one Donn has... the 77 is a well balanced (legendary) tough son of a bitch, that in home use you would NEVER replace but it depends on how much you use it... I do a lot of decks, barn work, heavy outside framing stuff. For me it has to be as powerful as a table saw in your hand..
2nd choice: The PC has a good rep...don't be cheap on the blade tho, makes the difference
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by cs:
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadChad, yeah, I know you have your heart dead set against a worm, but for others that are reading this, just pick up a Bosch worm drive saw for a minute and you'll see that its not that heavy. I use it to cut above my head almost daily, usually one handed, and always one handed when the cutting is on horses or below. Piece of cake. I'm not a big gorilla or anything either, just a normal guy that's actually not that strong compared to most.
I sometimes frame for a living, but I'm more of an old time carpenter. I use the worm for lots of things. I even used it to cut out the strakes for my MacGregor Canoe. It cut the hell outta that 4mm, oh yeah...
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by cs:
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadChad, yeah, I know you have your heart dead set against a worm, but for others that are reading this, just pick up a Bosch worm drive saw for a minute and you'll see that its not that heavy. I use it to cut above my head almost daily, usually one handed, and always one handed when the cutting is on horses or below. Piece of cake. I'm not a big gorilla or anything either, just a normal guy that's actually not that strong compared to most.
I sometimes frame for a living, but I'm more of an old time carpenter. I use the worm for lots of things. I even used it to cut out the strakes for my MacGregor Canoe. It cut the hell outta that 4mm, oh yeah...
Tom M.
10-23-2003, 10:54 PM
Originally posted by cs:
Tom if I did framing for a living I would get the worm drive. A lot of the cutting I end up doing is one-handed and may not always be horizontal.
How hard is it to get used to the left sided blade of the PC?
ChadChad, yeah, I know you have your heart dead set against a worm, but for others that are reading this, just pick up a Bosch worm drive saw for a minute and you'll see that its not that heavy. I use it to cut above my head almost daily, usually one handed, and always one handed when the cutting is on horses or below. Piece of cake. I'm not a big gorilla or anything either, just a normal guy that's actually not that strong compared to most.
I sometimes frame for a living, but I'm more of an old time carpenter. I use the worm for lots of things. I even used it to cut out the strakes for my MacGregor Canoe. It cut the hell outta that 4mm, oh yeah...
Not dead set agaisn't the worm drive. In fact if I had the extra cash to spend I would probably get both. Okay, you preasured me into it, I will look at them, but will probably get the PC. I plan on going out tonight and looking at them.
Pete, I will try to get some photos of me catching some air and if I do and I survive the hospital trip I will post some photos. I've already managed to blow both tires out trying a little jump.
Chad
Not dead set agaisn't the worm drive. In fact if I had the extra cash to spend I would probably get both. Okay, you preasured me into it, I will look at them, but will probably get the PC. I plan on going out tonight and looking at them.
Pete, I will try to get some photos of me catching some air and if I do and I survive the hospital trip I will post some photos. I've already managed to blow both tires out trying a little jump.
Chad
Not dead set agaisn't the worm drive. In fact if I had the extra cash to spend I would probably get both. Okay, you preasured me into it, I will look at them, but will probably get the PC. I plan on going out tonight and looking at them.
Pete, I will try to get some photos of me catching some air and if I do and I survive the hospital trip I will post some photos. I've already managed to blow both tires out trying a little jump.
Chad
Mrleft8
10-24-2003, 09:32 AM
RE: Justifying the cost of an expensive saw. I bought the Festool saw with the guide track. About $300 if I remember all the way back to July correctly.... It paid for itself the first week. But to really look at it properly think of it this way: You buy the saw for $300, use it 10 times, that's $30 each time. Use it 100 times, and it cost $3 each time... Not bad for excellent cuts that are table saw accurate. Another plus is that you don't have to manhandle the sheet of ply up onto the saw, and cross cutting is about a kazillion times easier than a tablesaw. It's more accurate than ANY other hand held saw. It's not for hacking up 2x4's though.
Mrleft8
10-24-2003, 09:32 AM
RE: Justifying the cost of an expensive saw. I bought the Festool saw with the guide track. About $300 if I remember all the way back to July correctly.... It paid for itself the first week. But to really look at it properly think of it this way: You buy the saw for $300, use it 10 times, that's $30 each time. Use it 100 times, and it cost $3 each time... Not bad for excellent cuts that are table saw accurate. Another plus is that you don't have to manhandle the sheet of ply up onto the saw, and cross cutting is about a kazillion times easier than a tablesaw. It's more accurate than ANY other hand held saw. It's not for hacking up 2x4's though.
Mrleft8
10-24-2003, 09:32 AM
RE: Justifying the cost of an expensive saw. I bought the Festool saw with the guide track. About $300 if I remember all the way back to July correctly.... It paid for itself the first week. But to really look at it properly think of it this way: You buy the saw for $300, use it 10 times, that's $30 each time. Use it 100 times, and it cost $3 each time... Not bad for excellent cuts that are table saw accurate. Another plus is that you don't have to manhandle the sheet of ply up onto the saw, and cross cutting is about a kazillion times easier than a tablesaw. It's more accurate than ANY other hand held saw. It's not for hacking up 2x4's though.
Tom M.
10-24-2003, 10:56 PM
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?
Tom M.
10-24-2003, 10:56 PM
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?
Tom M.
10-24-2003, 10:56 PM
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?
Ed Harrow
10-24-2003, 11:12 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2354258528&category=20785
Don't say I didn't offer you a potential deal. ;)
Ed Harrow
10-24-2003, 11:12 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2354258528&category=20785
Don't say I didn't offer you a potential deal. ;)
Ed Harrow
10-24-2003, 11:12 PM
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2354258528&category=20785
Don't say I didn't offer you a potential deal. ;)
Nicholas Carey
10-25-2003, 01:17 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width?Edensaw Lumber up in Port Townsend WA is now a Festool dealer. As a result, the Festool boys were demoing at the Pt. Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
Rip Width? what means this "rip width"? The guide rail clamps on to the stock. Its cutting width is...well..unlimited.
The guide rails themselves are available in lengths of 800mm, 1080mm, 1400mm, 2700mm and 5000mm. So unless you deal often with sheet goods longer than 16 feet, you'll have no problems, except possibly reach. There are also special guide rails for drilling uniformly spaced series of holes (1080/2424mm).
Oh...and if you're length requirements exceed 5m, connectors are available to join guide rails to get to the length you want.
Pretty much all Festool tools are designed to work on the guide rails.
Festool also makes a special cutting/clamping table that's designed to work with the tools and the guide rails.
Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?I have a cutoff from the Festool boys demo -- a piece of poplar, both ripped and crosscut using a stock Festool saw, guide rail and Festool blade.
The cut quality, on solid poplar, both crosscut and rip, is almost (but not quite) as good as a tuned cabinet saw using a Forrest blade. The crosscut surface isn't quite glossy, but it's close. No scoring whatsoever. Ditto for for the ripped surface. About the only work you'd have to do to make it finish-ready would be to touch it with a smoother or cabinet scraper, or a light sanding with 280+ sandpaper.
IMHO, for wrassling sheet stock like plywood, there's, the Festool saw is unsurpassed. WRT to horsing through thick, heavy stuff like 10/4 purpleheart, I'm not sure, but for plywood and solid wood up to 4/4, it rocks.
I think its only limiting factor is blade diameter (160/190mm;6-1/4 and 7-1/2 ins.)
The saw's motor is 1400 or 1500 watts (small blade/large blade).
The matching Festool router is also designed to work off the guide rail is interesting too. I rejected it because it only has 1/4in and 8mm collets....kind of limits the available bits.
The Festool reps assured me that they knew the 8mm collet was a problem and were working on a 1/2" collet model.
The Festool drill rocked, too. It comes with two chucks: one 'conventional' chuck and one right angle chuck. The chucks are bayonet-mounted so a chuck change takes about 30 seconds. You can also use the drill sans chuck with their "direct bit holder", shortening the drill by more than two inches — hex shank bits only, I believe. Makes me want to trade in my Fein drill. :D
Did I mention that their tools are all designed to tie into the Festool vacuum systems?
http://www.festool-usa.com/
My book report from the PT Townsend wooden boat show.
[ 10-25-2003, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]
Nicholas Carey
10-25-2003, 01:17 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width?Edensaw Lumber up in Port Townsend WA is now a Festool dealer. As a result, the Festool boys were demoing at the Pt. Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
Rip Width? what means this "rip width"? The guide rail clamps on to the stock. Its cutting width is...well..unlimited.
The guide rails themselves are available in lengths of 800mm, 1080mm, 1400mm, 2700mm and 5000mm. So unless you deal often with sheet goods longer than 16 feet, you'll have no problems, except possibly reach. There are also special guide rails for drilling uniformly spaced series of holes (1080/2424mm).
Oh...and if you're length requirements exceed 5m, connectors are available to join guide rails to get to the length you want.
Pretty much all Festool tools are designed to work on the guide rails.
Festool also makes a special cutting/clamping table that's designed to work with the tools and the guide rails.
Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?I have a cutoff from the Festool boys demo -- a piece of poplar, both ripped and crosscut using a stock Festool saw, guide rail and Festool blade.
The cut quality, on solid poplar, both crosscut and rip, is almost (but not quite) as good as a tuned cabinet saw using a Forrest blade. The crosscut surface isn't quite glossy, but it's close. No scoring whatsoever. Ditto for for the ripped surface. About the only work you'd have to do to make it finish-ready would be to touch it with a smoother or cabinet scraper, or a light sanding with 280+ sandpaper.
IMHO, for wrassling sheet stock like plywood, there's, the Festool saw is unsurpassed. WRT to horsing through thick, heavy stuff like 10/4 purpleheart, I'm not sure, but for plywood and solid wood up to 4/4, it rocks.
I think its only limiting factor is blade diameter (160/190mm;6-1/4 and 7-1/2 ins.)
The saw's motor is 1400 or 1500 watts (small blade/large blade).
The matching Festool router is also designed to work off the guide rail is interesting too. I rejected it because it only has 1/4in and 8mm collets....kind of limits the available bits.
The Festool reps assured me that they knew the 8mm collet was a problem and were working on a 1/2" collet model.
The Festool drill rocked, too. It comes with two chucks: one 'conventional' chuck and one right angle chuck. The chucks are bayonet-mounted so a chuck change takes about 30 seconds. You can also use the drill sans chuck with their "direct bit holder", shortening the drill by more than two inches — hex shank bits only, I believe. Makes me want to trade in my Fein drill. :D
Did I mention that their tools are all designed to tie into the Festool vacuum systems?
http://www.festool-usa.com/
My book report from the PT Townsend wooden boat show.
[ 10-25-2003, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]
Nicholas Carey
10-25-2003, 01:17 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width?Edensaw Lumber up in Port Townsend WA is now a Festool dealer. As a result, the Festool boys were demoing at the Pt. Townsend Wooden Boat Festival.
Rip Width? what means this "rip width"? The guide rail clamps on to the stock. Its cutting width is...well..unlimited.
The guide rails themselves are available in lengths of 800mm, 1080mm, 1400mm, 2700mm and 5000mm. So unless you deal often with sheet goods longer than 16 feet, you'll have no problems, except possibly reach. There are also special guide rails for drilling uniformly spaced series of holes (1080/2424mm).
Oh...and if you're length requirements exceed 5m, connectors are available to join guide rails to get to the length you want.
Pretty much all Festool tools are designed to work on the guide rails.
Festool also makes a special cutting/clamping table that's designed to work with the tools and the guide rails.
Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?I have a cutoff from the Festool boys demo -- a piece of poplar, both ripped and crosscut using a stock Festool saw, guide rail and Festool blade.
The cut quality, on solid poplar, both crosscut and rip, is almost (but not quite) as good as a tuned cabinet saw using a Forrest blade. The crosscut surface isn't quite glossy, but it's close. No scoring whatsoever. Ditto for for the ripped surface. About the only work you'd have to do to make it finish-ready would be to touch it with a smoother or cabinet scraper, or a light sanding with 280+ sandpaper.
IMHO, for wrassling sheet stock like plywood, there's, the Festool saw is unsurpassed. WRT to horsing through thick, heavy stuff like 10/4 purpleheart, I'm not sure, but for plywood and solid wood up to 4/4, it rocks.
I think its only limiting factor is blade diameter (160/190mm;6-1/4 and 7-1/2 ins.)
The saw's motor is 1400 or 1500 watts (small blade/large blade).
The matching Festool router is also designed to work off the guide rail is interesting too. I rejected it because it only has 1/4in and 8mm collets....kind of limits the available bits.
The Festool reps assured me that they knew the 8mm collet was a problem and were working on a 1/2" collet model.
The Festool drill rocked, too. It comes with two chucks: one 'conventional' chuck and one right angle chuck. The chucks are bayonet-mounted so a chuck change takes about 30 seconds. You can also use the drill sans chuck with their "direct bit holder", shortening the drill by more than two inches — hex shank bits only, I believe. Makes me want to trade in my Fein drill. :D
Did I mention that their tools are all designed to tie into the Festool vacuum systems?
http://www.festool-usa.com/
My book report from the PT Townsend wooden boat show.
[ 10-25-2003, 01:23 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]
Mrleft8
10-25-2003, 10:16 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?What Nicholas Carey said. In august I was still working on this job from hell, and needed to rip one piece of trim about 8'x 3". First I used another contractor's makita table saw. The cut was OK. I had a spare piece of stock, so I did the same cut with my Festool saw, The cut was superior. I no longer even bother to cross cut sheet stock on my unisaw, the Festool does as good a job without having to wrestle the stock onto the tablesaw, or having to worry about the stock sagging off the saw table edge. Once again, this is NOT a framing saw. It's for finish cuts on plywood,MDF, and solid stock. I still use my DeWalt saw for cutting 2x stock for framing stuff.
Mrleft8
10-25-2003, 10:16 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?What Nicholas Carey said. In august I was still working on this job from hell, and needed to rip one piece of trim about 8'x 3". First I used another contractor's makita table saw. The cut was OK. I had a spare piece of stock, so I did the same cut with my Festool saw, The cut was superior. I no longer even bother to cross cut sheet stock on my unisaw, the Festool does as good a job without having to wrestle the stock onto the tablesaw, or having to worry about the stock sagging off the saw table edge. Once again, this is NOT a framing saw. It's for finish cuts on plywood,MDF, and solid stock. I still use my DeWalt saw for cutting 2x stock for framing stuff.
Mrleft8
10-25-2003, 10:16 AM
Originally posted by Tom M.:
Chad, I'm laughing! I pressured you! Then I must be doing right by the worm LOL.
Really, you'd probably take me with less of a grain of salt if you understood the context of the worm vs. sidewinder debate among west coast and east coast carpenters. Its like Ford vs. Chevy.
DugT and Mrleft8, I'm curious about the Festool saw. I've known about them for years, but have never taken a really close look. What's the guide's max rip width? For site work I have a Makita table saw in a Rousseau table. Its great, but not for big sheets. Would you say the Festool's forte is sheetgoods? Is it as good with smaller solid stock as the table saw is? Will the Festool leave a cleaner edge than my portable table saw, given both have good blades?What Nicholas Carey said. In august I was still working on this job from hell, and needed to rip one piece of trim about 8'x 3". First I used another contractor's makita table saw. The cut was OK. I had a spare piece of stock, so I did the same cut with my Festool saw, The cut was superior. I no longer even bother to cross cut sheet stock on my unisaw, the Festool does as good a job without having to wrestle the stock onto the tablesaw, or having to worry about the stock sagging off the saw table edge. Once again, this is NOT a framing saw. It's for finish cuts on plywood,MDF, and solid stock. I still use my DeWalt saw for cutting 2x stock for framing stuff.
Tom,
I agree with MrLeft8...it's an excellent tool...a specialized tool that has been engineered for a specific application--straight, clean rips and crosscuts on material that has at least one finished face--practically indispensible on a stain-grade jobsite, especially when retrofitting or rebuilding items that were somehow built wrong in the shop :mad: (you guys never run into that problem, do you? :rolleyes: )
One of the reasons I suggested earlier that I probably wouldn't buy one for my home shop(which is my garage)is that I don't do enough side work to justify it. Obviously, if you're in business for yourself it could make sense. Another reason for my suggesting putting the cost of a Festool toward a good table saw, was that usually if you have a heavy cabinet saw set up in your shop or garage, chances are you'll have built some sort of outfeed table, so that handling sheet goods singlehandedly isn't that difficult. There is also the obvious versatlity that a table saw provides vs. the specialized Festool. And finally, of course, there is the limited-funds factor. Ideally, I'd have every tool known to man and a bevy of Playmates calling me in from the garage/boatshop everynight. ;)
Tom,
I agree with MrLeft8...it's an excellent tool...a specialized tool that has been engineered for a specific application--straight, clean rips and crosscuts on material that has at least one finished face--practically indispensible on a stain-grade jobsite, especially when retrofitting or rebuilding items that were somehow built wrong in the shop :mad: (you guys never run into that problem, do you? :rolleyes: )
One of the reasons I suggested earlier that I probably wouldn't buy one for my home shop(which is my garage)is that I don't do enough side work to justify it. Obviously, if you're in business for yourself it could make sense. Another reason for my suggesting putting the cost of a Festool toward a good table saw, was that usually if you have a heavy cabinet saw set up in your shop or garage, chances are you'll have built some sort of outfeed table, so that handling sheet goods singlehandedly isn't that difficult. There is also the obvious versatlity that a table saw provides vs. the specialized Festool. And finally, of course, there is the limited-funds factor. Ideally, I'd have every tool known to man and a bevy of Playmates calling me in from the garage/boatshop everynight. ;)
Tom,
I agree with MrLeft8...it's an excellent tool...a specialized tool that has been engineered for a specific application--straight, clean rips and crosscuts on material that has at least one finished face--practically indispensible on a stain-grade jobsite, especially when retrofitting or rebuilding items that were somehow built wrong in the shop :mad: (you guys never run into that problem, do you? :rolleyes: )
One of the reasons I suggested earlier that I probably wouldn't buy one for my home shop(which is my garage)is that I don't do enough side work to justify it. Obviously, if you're in business for yourself it could make sense. Another reason for my suggesting putting the cost of a Festool toward a good table saw, was that usually if you have a heavy cabinet saw set up in your shop or garage, chances are you'll have built some sort of outfeed table, so that handling sheet goods singlehandedly isn't that difficult. There is also the obvious versatlity that a table saw provides vs. the specialized Festool. And finally, of course, there is the limited-funds factor. Ideally, I'd have every tool known to man and a bevy of Playmates calling me in from the garage/boatshop everynight. ;)
Thanks for the tip Ed. Right now the bid for that saw is at $86 + $15 shipping comes up to $101, for a saw that has only been used 1 time. Not bad.
Guess what though, you can go to Home Depot get that same saw (15 amp) brand new in the box for $199.99 ($130.01 with tax) and plus they will send you a $40 gift card (final cost minus gift card $90.01). BTW that's what I've been doing this morning. I'm now the proud owner of a 15 amp Porter Cable Left sided 7-1/4" circular saw. Thanks for all the help.
I did look at the worm drive and felt that they were a little awkard and heavy for the way I tend to use a saw.
Chad
Thanks for the tip Ed. Right now the bid for that saw is at $86 + $15 shipping comes up to $101, for a saw that has only been used 1 time. Not bad.
Guess what though, you can go to Home Depot get that same saw (15 amp) brand new in the box for $199.99 ($130.01 with tax) and plus they will send you a $40 gift card (final cost minus gift card $90.01). BTW that's what I've been doing this morning. I'm now the proud owner of a 15 amp Porter Cable Left sided 7-1/4" circular saw. Thanks for all the help.
I did look at the worm drive and felt that they were a little awkard and heavy for the way I tend to use a saw.
Chad
Thanks for the tip Ed. Right now the bid for that saw is at $86 + $15 shipping comes up to $101, for a saw that has only been used 1 time. Not bad.
Guess what though, you can go to Home Depot get that same saw (15 amp) brand new in the box for $199.99 ($130.01 with tax) and plus they will send you a $40 gift card (final cost minus gift card $90.01). BTW that's what I've been doing this morning. I'm now the proud owner of a 15 amp Porter Cable Left sided 7-1/4" circular saw. Thanks for all the help.
I did look at the worm drive and felt that they were a little awkard and heavy for the way I tend to use a saw.
Chad
Tom,
Forgot something...for the smaller, solid stock you asked about (such as scribes/fillers?) your portable table saw (or skilsaw or jigsaw)will still rule, especially if you're cutting close to the line and then sanding anyway. The guide on our Festool at work is about 6-7" wide? so you can see how that would affect working with narrow stock. If you're talking about small panels that can be easily handled by one man, then the portable tablesaw wins again IMO, assuming good blade and good fence. Yes, handling sheet goods is the Festool's forte. smile.gif
Tom,
Forgot something...for the smaller, solid stock you asked about (such as scribes/fillers?) your portable table saw (or skilsaw or jigsaw)will still rule, especially if you're cutting close to the line and then sanding anyway. The guide on our Festool at work is about 6-7" wide? so you can see how that would affect working with narrow stock. If you're talking about small panels that can be easily handled by one man, then the portable tablesaw wins again IMO, assuming good blade and good fence. Yes, handling sheet goods is the Festool's forte. smile.gif
Tom,
Forgot something...for the smaller, solid stock you asked about (such as scribes/fillers?) your portable table saw (or skilsaw or jigsaw)will still rule, especially if you're cutting close to the line and then sanding anyway. The guide on our Festool at work is about 6-7" wide? so you can see how that would affect working with narrow stock. If you're talking about small panels that can be easily handled by one man, then the portable tablesaw wins again IMO, assuming good blade and good fence. Yes, handling sheet goods is the Festool's forte. smile.gif
Tom M.
10-25-2003, 05:16 PM
Thanks for the Festool info guys.
Chad, well, its over. Makes sense you bein' east of the Mississippi. tongue.gif
I've used those PC saws before. Nice saw....for a sidewinder. :D
Tom M.
10-25-2003, 05:16 PM
Thanks for the Festool info guys.
Chad, well, its over. Makes sense you bein' east of the Mississippi. tongue.gif
I've used those PC saws before. Nice saw....for a sidewinder. :D
Tom M.
10-25-2003, 05:16 PM
Thanks for the Festool info guys.
Chad, well, its over. Makes sense you bein' east of the Mississippi. tongue.gif
I've used those PC saws before. Nice saw....for a sidewinder. :D
Ed Harrow
10-25-2003, 07:25 PM
http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/Dumpster_Sally_at_work.JPG
19 pounds cutting at 2.75" deep in a single pass. Try that with your Porter-Cable. tongue.gif
Ed Harrow
10-25-2003, 07:25 PM
http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/Dumpster_Sally_at_work.JPG
19 pounds cutting at 2.75" deep in a single pass. Try that with your Porter-Cable. tongue.gif
Ed Harrow
10-25-2003, 07:25 PM
http://home.fiam.net/eeharrow/Dumpster_Sally_at_work.JPG
19 pounds cutting at 2.75" deep in a single pass. Try that with your Porter-Cable. tongue.gif
Look's like I'm gonna have to take a pic of Roger's Skil Wormdrive. It's about the size of a Geo.
Look's like I'm gonna have to take a pic of Roger's Skil Wormdrive. It's about the size of a Geo.
Look's like I'm gonna have to take a pic of Roger's Skil Wormdrive. It's about the size of a Geo.
The useful thing about that 8mm collet. I have a Leigh D-4 dovetail jig and the majority of the bits for it are 8mm. 20-30% stronger than 1/4" bits and able to do smaller tails/pins than a 1/2" bit. I couldn't find a collet for my 2 hp Dewalt, but discovered that the Bosch 8mm collet fits the Dewalt.
The useful thing about that 8mm collet. I have a Leigh D-4 dovetail jig and the majority of the bits for it are 8mm. 20-30% stronger than 1/4" bits and able to do smaller tails/pins than a 1/2" bit. I couldn't find a collet for my 2 hp Dewalt, but discovered that the Bosch 8mm collet fits the Dewalt.
The useful thing about that 8mm collet. I have a Leigh D-4 dovetail jig and the majority of the bits for it are 8mm. 20-30% stronger than 1/4" bits and able to do smaller tails/pins than a 1/2" bit. I couldn't find a collet for my 2 hp Dewalt, but discovered that the Bosch 8mm collet fits the Dewalt.
Just to add a little bit here. Haven't had a chance yet to really use the saw. Just was able to put my Freud blade in it and run it through some scrap. Would like to add that you have to pay a little more attention when putting in new blades. On a right side blade the lettering on the blade is visable. Not so on left side drive. It looks like its going on backwards, but its not.
Donn I saw that photo of that saw. Pretty big hunk of saw. :cool:
Chad
Just to add a little bit here. Haven't had a chance yet to really use the saw. Just was able to put my Freud blade in it and run it through some scrap. Would like to add that you have to pay a little more attention when putting in new blades. On a right side blade the lettering on the blade is visable. Not so on left side drive. It looks like its going on backwards, but its not.
Donn I saw that photo of that saw. Pretty big hunk of saw. :cool:
Chad
Just to add a little bit here. Haven't had a chance yet to really use the saw. Just was able to put my Freud blade in it and run it through some scrap. Would like to add that you have to pay a little more attention when putting in new blades. On a right side blade the lettering on the blade is visable. Not so on left side drive. It looks like its going on backwards, but its not.
Donn I saw that photo of that saw. Pretty big hunk of saw. :cool:
Chad
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