Wood Slicer blades

[Bill Perkins]

These are high quality bandsaw blades for resawing . They're 1/2 in. wide and quite thin (.022 in. ) , made of Carbon-Manganese Spring Steel .I got mine at Highland Hardware .It cost thirty bucks but I need to do a fair amount of resawing to produce laminating veneers , includeing some of a dense seasoned White Oak and I thought my little saw needed a boost .

The thin sharp blade does make it feel like you've added horspower to your saw and when I looked at the first 6 ft. veneer I sliced off the Oak I couldn't tell the sawn surface from the (previusly edge of plank ) planed one. Among other things the teeth of the blade are irregularly spaced to damp down harmonic vibration ( or so I read ) . I don't remember getting excited about a bandsaw blade befor but this one has to be seen to be believed .

[ 01-12-2003, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

These are high quality bandsaw blades for resawing . They're 1/2 in. wide and quite thin (.022 in. ) , made of Carbon-Manganese Spring Steel .I got mine at Highland Hardware .It cost thirty bucks but I need to do a fair amount of resawing to produce laminating veneers , includeing some of a dense seasoned White Oak and I thought my little saw needed a boost .

The thin sharp blade does make it feel like you've added horspower to your saw and when I looked at the first 6 ft. veneer I sliced off the Oak I couldn't tell the sawn surface from the (previusly edge of plank ) planed one. Among other things the teeth of the blade are irregularly spaced to damp down harmonic vibration ( or so I read ) . I don't remember getting excited about a bandsaw blade befor but this one has to be seen to be believed .

[ 01-12-2003, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

These are high quality bandsaw blades for resawing . They're 1/2 in. wide and quite thin (.022 in. ) , made of Carbon-Manganese Spring Steel .I got mine at Highland Hardware .It cost thirty bucks but I need to do a fair amount of resawing to produce laminating veneers , includeing some of a dense seasoned White Oak and I thought my little saw needed a boost .

The thin sharp blade does make it feel like you've added horspower to your saw and when I looked at the first 6 ft. veneer I sliced off the Oak I couldn't tell the sawn surface from the (previusly edge of plank ) planed one. Among other things the teeth of the blade are irregularly spaced to damp down harmonic vibration ( or so I read ) . I don't remember getting excited about a bandsaw blade befor but this one has to be seen to be believed .

[ 01-12-2003, 12:27 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Steve Lansdowne]

A buddy of mine swears by 'em also. I'm new to band sawing and thus haven't bought one yet.

[Steve Lansdowne]

A buddy of mine swears by 'em also. I'm new to band sawing and thus haven't bought one yet.

[Steve Lansdowne]

A buddy of mine swears by 'em also. I'm new to band sawing and thus haven't bought one yet.

[ken mcclure]

!!! Thanx for the tip. I'll hafta try one.

[ken mcclure]

!!! Thanx for the tip. I'll hafta try one.

[ken mcclure]

!!! Thanx for the tip. I'll hafta try one.

[Paul Scheuer]

Source ?

[Paul Scheuer]

Source ?

[Paul Scheuer]

Source ?

[NormMessinger]

Source? See above. tongue.gif

The write up in the Highland Hardware catalogue sure makes the blade sound wonderful. I bought one but have not had occasion to use it yet.

Oh, alright: http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/

[NormMessinger]

Source? See above. tongue.gif

The write up in the Highland Hardware catalogue sure makes the blade sound wonderful. I bought one but have not had occasion to use it yet.

Oh, alright: http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/

[NormMessinger]

Source? See above. tongue.gif

The write up in the Highland Hardware catalogue sure makes the blade sound wonderful. I bought one but have not had occasion to use it yet.

Oh, alright: http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/

[Bill Perkins]

Thanks Norm . May your Cart never be empty .

[Bill Perkins]

Thanks Norm . May your Cart never be empty .

[Bill Perkins]

Thanks Norm . May your Cart never be empty .

[scepticus]

I've used these blades a few times myself. They're great. Extremely thin kerf.

It is very important to make sure that your bandsaw is set up properly before resawing. Highland Hardware can provide articles (some are actually in their catalog) on how to tune your bandsaw. Also, with these blades especially, you really want a lot of tension. I have upgraded my tension spring with the Iturra spring and still crank this blade up to the 3/4" mark. (I also never leave it tensioned when I'm not sawing.)

I've successfully resawn 8" 4/4 red oak and gotten a pair of 3/8" matched boards with my 14" Jet (with riser of course).

I've also resawn many other smaller and softer boards with great success.

One more thing. That guarantee about not breaking at the weld... believe it. I needed to cut a little piece off the end of an irregularly shaped item and attempted it (even though the safety switch in my brain was screaming at me not to) on my bandsaw with one of these blades. Anyway, the piece bound, yanked the blade sideways and made an impressive cut into the aluminum table insert and scared me half to death. The blade "broke" but only halfway. It was at the weld so I sent it back to Highland Hardware and got a new blade, no questions asked.

[scepticus]

I've used these blades a few times myself. They're great. Extremely thin kerf.

It is very important to make sure that your bandsaw is set up properly before resawing. Highland Hardware can provide articles (some are actually in their catalog) on how to tune your bandsaw. Also, with these blades especially, you really want a lot of tension. I have upgraded my tension spring with the Iturra spring and still crank this blade up to the 3/4" mark. (I also never leave it tensioned when I'm not sawing.)

I've successfully resawn 8" 4/4 red oak and gotten a pair of 3/8" matched boards with my 14" Jet (with riser of course).

I've also resawn many other smaller and softer boards with great success.

One more thing. That guarantee about not breaking at the weld... believe it. I needed to cut a little piece off the end of an irregularly shaped item and attempted it (even though the safety switch in my brain was screaming at me not to) on my bandsaw with one of these blades. Anyway, the piece bound, yanked the blade sideways and made an impressive cut into the aluminum table insert and scared me half to death. The blade "broke" but only halfway. It was at the weld so I sent it back to Highland Hardware and got a new blade, no questions asked.

[scepticus]

I've used these blades a few times myself. They're great. Extremely thin kerf.

It is very important to make sure that your bandsaw is set up properly before resawing. Highland Hardware can provide articles (some are actually in their catalog) on how to tune your bandsaw. Also, with these blades especially, you really want a lot of tension. I have upgraded my tension spring with the Iturra spring and still crank this blade up to the 3/4" mark. (I also never leave it tensioned when I'm not sawing.)

I've successfully resawn 8" 4/4 red oak and gotten a pair of 3/8" matched boards with my 14" Jet (with riser of course).

I've also resawn many other smaller and softer boards with great success.

One more thing. That guarantee about not breaking at the weld... believe it. I needed to cut a little piece off the end of an irregularly shaped item and attempted it (even though the safety switch in my brain was screaming at me not to) on my bandsaw with one of these blades. Anyway, the piece bound, yanked the blade sideways and made an impressive cut into the aluminum table insert and scared me half to death. The blade "broke" but only halfway. It was at the weld so I sent it back to Highland Hardware and got a new blade, no questions asked.

[Bill Perkins]

Scepticus I raised an eyebrow when I read of your mishap , but guess what ? I broke my new blade clean thru at the weld ! I got a replacement from HH too . Happily I live about four blocks away .

I was resawing some 6 in. C Douglas Fir and getting some nice slices with a full height fence and fingerboard when the blade bound in the wood and stopped the saw . My 10 1/2 in. Inca doesn't have allot of power .I guess there was a dense or resin rich patch in the wood . Anyway I quickly backed out the board to get the saw running again and stop the ominous humming coming from the motor ( switch out of reach ). Bad move , especially with a blade that has little or no set to the teeth . I pulled the blade right off the tires and there were some really bad noises before I got the saw shut down .

I opened the cover gingerly and found I was lucky , the saw was undamaged , but a nasty tight bight of the spring steel blade was jammed behind the upper wheel . This I defused like a bomb with a flat bar while standing behind the still shielded side of the saw , but by the end of that process the weld was popped .

With new blade in place I'm back to peeling off perfect 1/8 th in. slices but I now realize reverse is not an option with this blade in thick stock .I wondered if the lack of set had contributed to your accident .

[ 01-15-2003, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Scepticus I raised an eyebrow when I read of your mishap , but guess what ? I broke my new blade clean thru at the weld ! I got a replacement from HH too . Happily I live about four blocks away .

I was resawing some 6 in. C Douglas Fir and getting some nice slices with a full height fence and fingerboard when the blade bound in the wood and stopped the saw . My 10 1/2 in. Inca doesn't have allot of power .I guess there was a dense or resin rich patch in the wood . Anyway I quickly backed out the board to get the saw running again and stop the ominous humming coming from the motor ( switch out of reach ). Bad move , especially with a blade that has little or no set to the teeth . I pulled the blade right off the tires and there were some really bad noises before I got the saw shut down .

I opened the cover gingerly and found I was lucky , the saw was undamaged , but a nasty tight bight of the spring steel blade was jammed behind the upper wheel . This I defused like a bomb with a flat bar while standing behind the still shielded side of the saw , but by the end of that process the weld was popped .

With new blade in place I'm back to peeling off perfect 1/8 th in. slices but I now realize reverse is not an option with this blade in thick stock .I wondered if the lack of set had contributed to your accident .

[ 01-15-2003, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

Scepticus I raised an eyebrow when I read of your mishap , but guess what ? I broke my new blade clean thru at the weld ! I got a replacement from HH too . Happily I live about four blocks away .

I was resawing some 6 in. C Douglas Fir and getting some nice slices with a full height fence and fingerboard when the blade bound in the wood and stopped the saw . My 10 1/2 in. Inca doesn't have allot of power .I guess there was a dense or resin rich patch in the wood . Anyway I quickly backed out the board to get the saw running again and stop the ominous humming coming from the motor ( switch out of reach ). Bad move , especially with a blade that has little or no set to the teeth . I pulled the blade right off the tires and there were some really bad noises before I got the saw shut down .

I opened the cover gingerly and found I was lucky , the saw was undamaged , but a nasty tight bight of the spring steel blade was jammed behind the upper wheel . This I defused like a bomb with a flat bar while standing behind the still shielded side of the saw , but by the end of that process the weld was popped .

With new blade in place I'm back to peeling off perfect 1/8 th in. slices but I now realize reverse is not an option with this blade in thick stock .I wondered if the lack of set had contributed to your accident .

[ 01-15-2003, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]