Router planes

[Keith Wilson]

Gentlemen: Does anyone know a good source for a little router plane sort of like the ones below? I don't want to pay tool collector prices for a rusty basket case, and I don't have time to sort through junk stores. I'd rather not pay too much, since this is scarcely an essential tool, but I though it would be occasionally very useful, and a lot quieter than a power router. Thanks.

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12071_72dpi_webmax.jpg

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12271_72dpi_webmax.jpg

[Keith Wilson]

Gentlemen: Does anyone know a good source for a little router plane sort of like the ones below? I don't want to pay tool collector prices for a rusty basket case, and I don't have time to sort through junk stores. I'd rather not pay too much, since this is scarcely an essential tool, but I though it would be occasionally very useful, and a lot quieter than a power router. Thanks.

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12071_72dpi_webmax.jpg

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12271_72dpi_webmax.jpg

[Keith Wilson]

Gentlemen: Does anyone know a good source for a little router plane sort of like the ones below? I don't want to pay tool collector prices for a rusty basket case, and I don't have time to sort through junk stores. I'd rather not pay too much, since this is scarcely an essential tool, but I though it would be occasionally very useful, and a lot quieter than a power router. Thanks.

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12071_72dpi_webmax.jpg

http://www.stanleytools.com/catalog_images/web_detail/S_12271_72dpi_webmax.jpg

[gary porter]

Kieth, the 271 and the 71 which you have pictured are both available from Woodcraft. 1-800-225-1153
The small detail plane #271 is only about $20.
The 71 is about $75. Not really worth messing with rusted used ones.
Gary

[gary porter]

Kieth, the 271 and the 71 which you have pictured are both available from Woodcraft. 1-800-225-1153
The small detail plane #271 is only about $20.
The 71 is about $75. Not really worth messing with rusted used ones.
Gary

[gary porter]

Kieth, the 271 and the 71 which you have pictured are both available from Woodcraft. 1-800-225-1153
The small detail plane #271 is only about $20.
The 71 is about $75. Not really worth messing with rusted used ones.
Gary

[Garrett Lowell]

Here you go. (http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/pla_list.htm)

Item number 46. Sorry, it's the best I could do.

[Garrett Lowell]

Here you go. (http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/pla_list.htm)

Item number 46. Sorry, it's the best I could do.

[Garrett Lowell]

Here you go. (http://www.jonzimmersantiquetools.com/tools/pla_list.htm)

Item number 46. Sorry, it's the best I could do.

[Bob Smalser]

'Cept they don't work at all like a power router.

They were designed for one thing....to pare out the center of a dado that was made with two sawcuts using a (now rare) dado saw.

There's no spur or slitter on them to cut the fibers as they rout, and frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.

That said, Ebay is full of nice ones fairly cheap, except they may be missing parts - available here beneath the block planes:

http://www.stanleytools.com/?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=partsservice.htm&LEFT=left_partsservice.htm

[Bob Smalser]

'Cept they don't work at all like a power router.

They were designed for one thing....to pare out the center of a dado that was made with two sawcuts using a (now rare) dado saw.

There's no spur or slitter on them to cut the fibers as they rout, and frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.

That said, Ebay is full of nice ones fairly cheap, except they may be missing parts - available here beneath the block planes:

http://www.stanleytools.com/?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=partsservice.htm&LEFT=left_partsservice.htm

[Bob Smalser]

'Cept they don't work at all like a power router.

They were designed for one thing....to pare out the center of a dado that was made with two sawcuts using a (now rare) dado saw.

There's no spur or slitter on them to cut the fibers as they rout, and frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.

That said, Ebay is full of nice ones fairly cheap, except they may be missing parts - available here beneath the block planes:

http://www.stanleytools.com/?TYPE=STATICLEFT&PAGE=partsservice.htm&LEFT=left_partsservice.htm

[Keith Wilson]

. .frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.OK, you ought to know. Chisels, I have.
Thanks Bob, I think you just saved me some money.

[Keith Wilson]

. .frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.OK, you ought to know. Chisels, I have.
Thanks Bob, I think you just saved me some money.

[Keith Wilson]

. .frankly, I haven't found anything they do I can't do just as well with a chisel used bevel down.OK, you ought to know. Chisels, I have.
Thanks Bob, I think you just saved me some money.

[imported_Steven Bauer]

I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. I think Garrett Wade has them, too.

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. I think Garrett Wade has them, too.

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. I think Garrett Wade has them, too.

Steven

[Bob Smalser]

Here's that dado saw at the bottom of the pic.

Note that the blade has teeth on both sides and slides in the frame, which acts as a depth stop.

It's a Bishop that was my uncle's...I use it as a tenon saw.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/26712331.jpg

[Bob Smalser]

Here's that dado saw at the bottom of the pic.

Note that the blade has teeth on both sides and slides in the frame, which acts as a depth stop.

It's a Bishop that was my uncle's...I use it as a tenon saw.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/26712331.jpg

[Bob Smalser]

Here's that dado saw at the bottom of the pic.

Note that the blade has teeth on both sides and slides in the frame, which acts as a depth stop.

It's a Bishop that was my uncle's...I use it as a tenon saw.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/26712331.jpg

[Ron Williamson]

I'll give you mine,it's the little one.
I haven't ever used it.
It's cute,but fussy and annoying,cuz it's hard to adjust.
R

[Ron Williamson]

I'll give you mine,it's the little one.
I haven't ever used it.
It's cute,but fussy and annoying,cuz it's hard to adjust.
R

[Ron Williamson]

I'll give you mine,it's the little one.
I haven't ever used it.
It's cute,but fussy and annoying,cuz it's hard to adjust.
R

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Steven Bauer:
I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. Me too.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Steven Bauer:
I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. Me too.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Steven Bauer:
I keep one of the little ones in my tool bag for morticing stikeplates when putting in door hardware. Works great. Me too.

[TimothyB]

I used a router plane to flatten and pare out holes that I had rough chiseled when making boxes for my oilstone(s) out of solid pieces of mahagony. It was mighty handy for that, and accomplished a really flat hole in seconds.

So, I think it has a few good uses, but not terribly many. The price is right though and I wouldn't be without one. Never know when you might need it smile.gif

[ 01-26-2005, 10:25 PM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]

[TimothyB]

I used a router plane to flatten and pare out holes that I had rough chiseled when making boxes for my oilstone(s) out of solid pieces of mahagony. It was mighty handy for that, and accomplished a really flat hole in seconds.

So, I think it has a few good uses, but not terribly many. The price is right though and I wouldn't be without one. Never know when you might need it smile.gif

[ 01-26-2005, 10:25 PM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]

[TimothyB]

I used a router plane to flatten and pare out holes that I had rough chiseled when making boxes for my oilstone(s) out of solid pieces of mahagony. It was mighty handy for that, and accomplished a really flat hole in seconds.

So, I think it has a few good uses, but not terribly many. The price is right though and I wouldn't be without one. Never know when you might need it smile.gif

[ 01-26-2005, 10:25 PM: Message edited by: TimothyB ]

[TimothyB]

Addendum:

I was thinking: A router plane is pretty simple, how hard could it be to make one up? Well, this fella did it out of spare stuff lying about in his shop:

http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/woodworking/jigs.phtml

Sheer coolness to make the bit out of an Allen Key!

[TimothyB]

Addendum:

I was thinking: A router plane is pretty simple, how hard could it be to make one up? Well, this fella did it out of spare stuff lying about in his shop:

http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/woodworking/jigs.phtml

Sheer coolness to make the bit out of an Allen Key!

[TimothyB]

Addendum:

I was thinking: A router plane is pretty simple, how hard could it be to make one up? Well, this fella did it out of spare stuff lying about in his shop:

http://www.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/woodworking/jigs.phtml

Sheer coolness to make the bit out of an Allen Key!

[imported_Steven Bauer]

That guy's stuff is pretty cool but he needs to take some lessons from Bob in making them purdy, too. :D

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

That guy's stuff is pretty cool but he needs to take some lessons from Bob in making them purdy, too. :D

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

That guy's stuff is pretty cool but he needs to take some lessons from Bob in making them purdy, too. :D

Steven

[John Meachen]

Regarding Ron's comment about the difficulty of adjusting the 271.I have found the best method is to move the tip of the cutter away from the edge of the groove by a small amount and then release the locking screw to allow the cutter to drop by an amount equal to the gap that the move has created.Tighten the locking screw and clean a bit more out and repeat the process.Trying to do the job in mid air is nearly impossible.

[John Meachen]

Regarding Ron's comment about the difficulty of adjusting the 271.I have found the best method is to move the tip of the cutter away from the edge of the groove by a small amount and then release the locking screw to allow the cutter to drop by an amount equal to the gap that the move has created.Tighten the locking screw and clean a bit more out and repeat the process.Trying to do the job in mid air is nearly impossible.

[John Meachen]

Regarding Ron's comment about the difficulty of adjusting the 271.I have found the best method is to move the tip of the cutter away from the edge of the groove by a small amount and then release the locking screw to allow the cutter to drop by an amount equal to the gap that the move has created.Tighten the locking screw and clean a bit more out and repeat the process.Trying to do the job in mid air is nearly impossible.