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Garrett Lowell
12-13-2005, 07:35 AM
What do you use? Urethane or rubber? Just curious about different experiences and recommendations. I just put new rubber tires on the Boice Crane. Somehow, those day-glo blue or orange just wouldn't seem right, but maybe that's obtuse.

Garrett Lowell
12-13-2005, 07:35 AM
What do you use? Urethane or rubber? Just curious about different experiences and recommendations. I just put new rubber tires on the Boice Crane. Somehow, those day-glo blue or orange just wouldn't seem right, but maybe that's obtuse.

Garrett Lowell
12-13-2005, 07:35 AM
What do you use? Urethane or rubber? Just curious about different experiences and recommendations. I just put new rubber tires on the Boice Crane. Somehow, those day-glo blue or orange just wouldn't seem right, but maybe that's obtuse.

Mrleft8
12-13-2005, 07:55 AM
Use what works. I have a hot pink extension cord. Never ever had it grow legs on a job site....Like a half dozen orange ones did...

Mrleft8
12-13-2005, 07:55 AM
Use what works. I have a hot pink extension cord. Never ever had it grow legs on a job site....Like a half dozen orange ones did...

Mrleft8
12-13-2005, 07:55 AM
Use what works. I have a hot pink extension cord. Never ever had it grow legs on a job site....Like a half dozen orange ones did...

Tom Lathrop
12-13-2005, 09:48 AM
Changed from rubber to urethane on two bandsaws and think it was a good move. Don't know about lifetime, but they don't have the tendency to "walk" that the rubber ones did.

I got them from Suffolk Machinery Co. (Timberwolf blades). Time will tell.

I need some of those hot pink extension cords. My extension cord budget nevers lasts for a whole year.

[ 12-13-2005, 09:49 AM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

Tom Lathrop
12-13-2005, 09:48 AM
Changed from rubber to urethane on two bandsaws and think it was a good move. Don't know about lifetime, but they don't have the tendency to "walk" that the rubber ones did.

I got them from Suffolk Machinery Co. (Timberwolf blades). Time will tell.

I need some of those hot pink extension cords. My extension cord budget nevers lasts for a whole year.

[ 12-13-2005, 09:49 AM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

Tom Lathrop
12-13-2005, 09:48 AM
Changed from rubber to urethane on two bandsaws and think it was a good move. Don't know about lifetime, but they don't have the tendency to "walk" that the rubber ones did.

I got them from Suffolk Machinery Co. (Timberwolf blades). Time will tell.

I need some of those hot pink extension cords. My extension cord budget nevers lasts for a whole year.

[ 12-13-2005, 09:49 AM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

gary porter
12-13-2005, 01:26 PM
Garrett, there is another option well sorta, especially for older machines or ones where its hard to get a tire. Flexane is a pourable urethane mix.
Black by the way. You can pour a tire right on the wheel.
Gary

gary porter
12-13-2005, 01:26 PM
Garrett, there is another option well sorta, especially for older machines or ones where its hard to get a tire. Flexane is a pourable urethane mix.
Black by the way. You can pour a tire right on the wheel.
Gary

gary porter
12-13-2005, 01:26 PM
Garrett, there is another option well sorta, especially for older machines or ones where its hard to get a tire. Flexane is a pourable urethane mix.
Black by the way. You can pour a tire right on the wheel.
Gary

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 02:44 PM
I'm probably going to catch hell for this but I have been running duct tape tires for thirty years. I couldn't afford anything better back then. About 1985 I "inherited" a 30" bandsaw from a bankruptcy and it had pretty good rubber tires on it. After I got it set up and running, the blade didn't want to run true enough to suit me so I took the rubber off and wrapped that one with duct tape, too... been running it like that ever since. It is accurate enough to resaw 5/8" thick planking stock to finish out 1/4" running a standard WoodMizer saw and Woodmizer guides. Duct tape tires are accurate, long lasting and cheap.

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 02:44 PM
I'm probably going to catch hell for this but I have been running duct tape tires for thirty years. I couldn't afford anything better back then. About 1985 I "inherited" a 30" bandsaw from a bankruptcy and it had pretty good rubber tires on it. After I got it set up and running, the blade didn't want to run true enough to suit me so I took the rubber off and wrapped that one with duct tape, too... been running it like that ever since. It is accurate enough to resaw 5/8" thick planking stock to finish out 1/4" running a standard WoodMizer saw and Woodmizer guides. Duct tape tires are accurate, long lasting and cheap.

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 02:44 PM
I'm probably going to catch hell for this but I have been running duct tape tires for thirty years. I couldn't afford anything better back then. About 1985 I "inherited" a 30" bandsaw from a bankruptcy and it had pretty good rubber tires on it. After I got it set up and running, the blade didn't want to run true enough to suit me so I took the rubber off and wrapped that one with duct tape, too... been running it like that ever since. It is accurate enough to resaw 5/8" thick planking stock to finish out 1/4" running a standard WoodMizer saw and Woodmizer guides. Duct tape tires are accurate, long lasting and cheap.

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:46 PM
From the 'Way Back Machine'...

If the tires on one of the big bandsoars needed replacement there usually was a place in town that did vulcanizing and replacement of rubber on machinery parts.

The wheels would be demounted and sent out to the rubber shop where new tires would be afixed, proper crown ground on them then returned to the yard. This would take about a week or so.

Then a good several hours would be spent reattaching the wheels, checking for co-planar, mounting a new blade, checking blade tracking, setting blade guides. Finally the machine was ready to run for another 10 or 20 years. ;)

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:46 PM
From the 'Way Back Machine'...

If the tires on one of the big bandsoars needed replacement there usually was a place in town that did vulcanizing and replacement of rubber on machinery parts.

The wheels would be demounted and sent out to the rubber shop where new tires would be afixed, proper crown ground on them then returned to the yard. This would take about a week or so.

Then a good several hours would be spent reattaching the wheels, checking for co-planar, mounting a new blade, checking blade tracking, setting blade guides. Finally the machine was ready to run for another 10 or 20 years. ;)

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:46 PM
From the 'Way Back Machine'...

If the tires on one of the big bandsoars needed replacement there usually was a place in town that did vulcanizing and replacement of rubber on machinery parts.

The wheels would be demounted and sent out to the rubber shop where new tires would be afixed, proper crown ground on them then returned to the yard. This would take about a week or so.

Then a good several hours would be spent reattaching the wheels, checking for co-planar, mounting a new blade, checking blade tracking, setting blade guides. Finally the machine was ready to run for another 10 or 20 years. ;)

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:47 PM
Bingey, if it works for you, go for it! ;)

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:47 PM
Bingey, if it works for you, go for it! ;)

Dave Fleming
12-13-2005, 02:47 PM
Bingey, if it works for you, go for it! ;)

bugeye
12-13-2005, 05:43 PM
hey Old Bingey,
I've got an old 36" bandsaw, whose wooden rims I just replaced. Now I need to put tires on them. I was getting ready to use truck inner tubes like we do on the one at the shipyard, but I'm intrigued by your duct tape method. So do you do alot of trips around, or just a few. I'd like to hear the details. After I bent on the rims, they were something less than perfectly true, so I turned the machine on without a blade, and held a smoothing plane up to it. Boy, that was fun! In about ten seconds, I had it perfectly true, and about a bushel of oak curlycues in my lap. It was really a pleasant surprise, as I kind of thought that I'd screw it up, as often happens.

By the way, I enjoyed your christmas tree story.

bugeye
12-13-2005, 05:43 PM
hey Old Bingey,
I've got an old 36" bandsaw, whose wooden rims I just replaced. Now I need to put tires on them. I was getting ready to use truck inner tubes like we do on the one at the shipyard, but I'm intrigued by your duct tape method. So do you do alot of trips around, or just a few. I'd like to hear the details. After I bent on the rims, they were something less than perfectly true, so I turned the machine on without a blade, and held a smoothing plane up to it. Boy, that was fun! In about ten seconds, I had it perfectly true, and about a bushel of oak curlycues in my lap. It was really a pleasant surprise, as I kind of thought that I'd screw it up, as often happens.

By the way, I enjoyed your christmas tree story.

bugeye
12-13-2005, 05:43 PM
hey Old Bingey,
I've got an old 36" bandsaw, whose wooden rims I just replaced. Now I need to put tires on them. I was getting ready to use truck inner tubes like we do on the one at the shipyard, but I'm intrigued by your duct tape method. So do you do alot of trips around, or just a few. I'd like to hear the details. After I bent on the rims, they were something less than perfectly true, so I turned the machine on without a blade, and held a smoothing plane up to it. Boy, that was fun! In about ten seconds, I had it perfectly true, and about a bushel of oak curlycues in my lap. It was really a pleasant surprise, as I kind of thought that I'd screw it up, as often happens.

By the way, I enjoyed your christmas tree story.

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 06:10 PM
Bugeye

I put on a bunch of wraps... maybe 5/16." It is kind of self leveling but never compresses so hard that it tries to take the set out of the teeth. I use that thick, shiny 3M duct tape. It is about a two man job, and will get to your hands after a while. On my 30" saw, I didn't have anybody to help me so I switched the saw on to wrap the bottom wheel... unrolled a roll of tape in a hurry but it didn't go on straight and I had to wait for my wife to come home from work to help me do it over again.

My old 20" saw used to stay out in the yard back when I worked outside a long time ago. The durn duct tape weathered so, when you were nose to nose with something delicate you were trying to cut, the damn thing whipped you across the lips with those threads. I re-capped it when I brought it inside and that original 30 year old duct tape is still under there... have to prune strings every now and then.

An interesting aside is that both saws run on antique repulsion start motors. That's the ones that have two windings in the armature. One is brush style like a skillsaw and only runs to bring the motor up to speed and then a centrifugal switch cuts the current off to the brushes and the other windings run on straight induction. Those old things will start a saw even better than three phase (which I don't have). The thing I like the best is when you overload it a little bit cutting something thick and hard (like live oak) and the motor lugs down enough to let the repulsion contacts close... she'll catch her second wind and finish the job.

I am glad you liked the story. Even though I am not all that santified, I just love Christmas.

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 06:10 PM
Bugeye

I put on a bunch of wraps... maybe 5/16." It is kind of self leveling but never compresses so hard that it tries to take the set out of the teeth. I use that thick, shiny 3M duct tape. It is about a two man job, and will get to your hands after a while. On my 30" saw, I didn't have anybody to help me so I switched the saw on to wrap the bottom wheel... unrolled a roll of tape in a hurry but it didn't go on straight and I had to wait for my wife to come home from work to help me do it over again.

My old 20" saw used to stay out in the yard back when I worked outside a long time ago. The durn duct tape weathered so, when you were nose to nose with something delicate you were trying to cut, the damn thing whipped you across the lips with those threads. I re-capped it when I brought it inside and that original 30 year old duct tape is still under there... have to prune strings every now and then.

An interesting aside is that both saws run on antique repulsion start motors. That's the ones that have two windings in the armature. One is brush style like a skillsaw and only runs to bring the motor up to speed and then a centrifugal switch cuts the current off to the brushes and the other windings run on straight induction. Those old things will start a saw even better than three phase (which I don't have). The thing I like the best is when you overload it a little bit cutting something thick and hard (like live oak) and the motor lugs down enough to let the repulsion contacts close... she'll catch her second wind and finish the job.

I am glad you liked the story. Even though I am not all that santified, I just love Christmas.

Old Bingey
12-13-2005, 06:10 PM
Bugeye

I put on a bunch of wraps... maybe 5/16." It is kind of self leveling but never compresses so hard that it tries to take the set out of the teeth. I use that thick, shiny 3M duct tape. It is about a two man job, and will get to your hands after a while. On my 30" saw, I didn't have anybody to help me so I switched the saw on to wrap the bottom wheel... unrolled a roll of tape in a hurry but it didn't go on straight and I had to wait for my wife to come home from work to help me do it over again.

My old 20" saw used to stay out in the yard back when I worked outside a long time ago. The durn duct tape weathered so, when you were nose to nose with something delicate you were trying to cut, the damn thing whipped you across the lips with those threads. I re-capped it when I brought it inside and that original 30 year old duct tape is still under there... have to prune strings every now and then.

An interesting aside is that both saws run on antique repulsion start motors. That's the ones that have two windings in the armature. One is brush style like a skillsaw and only runs to bring the motor up to speed and then a centrifugal switch cuts the current off to the brushes and the other windings run on straight induction. Those old things will start a saw even better than three phase (which I don't have). The thing I like the best is when you overload it a little bit cutting something thick and hard (like live oak) and the motor lugs down enough to let the repulsion contacts close... she'll catch her second wind and finish the job.

I am glad you liked the story. Even though I am not all that santified, I just love Christmas.

bugeye
12-13-2005, 09:19 PM
Hey Old Bingey,
Thanks, I'm going to go buy some tape tomorrow.

bugeye
12-13-2005, 09:19 PM
Hey Old Bingey,
Thanks, I'm going to go buy some tape tomorrow.

bugeye
12-13-2005, 09:19 PM
Hey Old Bingey,
Thanks, I'm going to go buy some tape tomorrow.

nedL
12-14-2005, 08:20 AM
Black electrical works too. :D My 26" band saw has old rubber tires with no crown, the blade didn't want to track well at all so I built up maybe .025" of crown with the electrical tape (right on top of the rubber tires) and things run a world better.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid129/pa4410dbc216cfe3860ca0dedbf7110d0/f7c76a72.jpg

nedL
12-14-2005, 08:20 AM
Black electrical works too. :D My 26" band saw has old rubber tires with no crown, the blade didn't want to track well at all so I built up maybe .025" of crown with the electrical tape (right on top of the rubber tires) and things run a world better.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid129/pa4410dbc216cfe3860ca0dedbf7110d0/f7c76a72.jpg

nedL
12-14-2005, 08:20 AM
Black electrical works too. :D My 26" band saw has old rubber tires with no crown, the blade didn't want to track well at all so I built up maybe .025" of crown with the electrical tape (right on top of the rubber tires) and things run a world better.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid129/pa4410dbc216cfe3860ca0dedbf7110d0/f7c76a72.jpg

Mrleft8
12-14-2005, 08:52 AM
That's one scary looking bandsaw! An OSHA inspector's nightmare! :eek:

Mrleft8
12-14-2005, 08:52 AM
That's one scary looking bandsaw! An OSHA inspector's nightmare! :eek:

Mrleft8
12-14-2005, 08:52 AM
That's one scary looking bandsaw! An OSHA inspector's nightmare! :eek:

Old Salt
12-14-2005, 11:02 AM
Funny you should start a thread on bandsaw tires. I have a fairly new bandsaw from Home Depot (ridgid). I had a blade break and assumed it was just a bad weld. Put on a new blade and started making wierd sounds. Opened the bottom wheel cover and saw that the tire was off its bead. Put it back on and now when you turn on the saw the tire forms a gap between the wheel and tire (at the top of wheel, opposite where the tension is) and eventually comes off again. Should these tires be glued on? I looked at the Suffolk web site and they dont list 13.5" x 1" tires. I was wondering if a higher quality tire would help or if I should just order the factory one?

Joe

Old Salt
12-14-2005, 11:02 AM
Funny you should start a thread on bandsaw tires. I have a fairly new bandsaw from Home Depot (ridgid). I had a blade break and assumed it was just a bad weld. Put on a new blade and started making wierd sounds. Opened the bottom wheel cover and saw that the tire was off its bead. Put it back on and now when you turn on the saw the tire forms a gap between the wheel and tire (at the top of wheel, opposite where the tension is) and eventually comes off again. Should these tires be glued on? I looked at the Suffolk web site and they dont list 13.5" x 1" tires. I was wondering if a higher quality tire would help or if I should just order the factory one?

Joe

Old Salt
12-14-2005, 11:02 AM
Funny you should start a thread on bandsaw tires. I have a fairly new bandsaw from Home Depot (ridgid). I had a blade break and assumed it was just a bad weld. Put on a new blade and started making wierd sounds. Opened the bottom wheel cover and saw that the tire was off its bead. Put it back on and now when you turn on the saw the tire forms a gap between the wheel and tire (at the top of wheel, opposite where the tension is) and eventually comes off again. Should these tires be glued on? I looked at the Suffolk web site and they dont list 13.5" x 1" tires. I was wondering if a higher quality tire would help or if I should just order the factory one?

Joe

Billy Bones
12-14-2005, 11:30 AM
Yeah, I used to be horrified that an acquaintance used gobs of electrical tape for replacement tires. Then my proprietary tires went on my rockwell delta 20" bansaw, and since they have grooves in the wheels and crown built into the tires, they were quite expensive. To add insult to (perceived)injury, the drive tire went with a bang and when I got (choked over) the price of the replacement I opted to replace only that tire. Within 90 seconds of running the new tire the idler tire went bang and broke. Thus I had to pay land shipping AND ocean freight AND duty on two separate packages.

My next ones may be the 3M variety.

Edited: i before e except after 'c' :rolleyes:

[ 12-14-2005, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Billy Bones ]

Billy Bones
12-14-2005, 11:30 AM
Yeah, I used to be horrified that an acquaintance used gobs of electrical tape for replacement tires. Then my proprietary tires went on my rockwell delta 20" bansaw, and since they have grooves in the wheels and crown built into the tires, they were quite expensive. To add insult to (perceived)injury, the drive tire went with a bang and when I got (choked over) the price of the replacement I opted to replace only that tire. Within 90 seconds of running the new tire the idler tire went bang and broke. Thus I had to pay land shipping AND ocean freight AND duty on two separate packages.

My next ones may be the 3M variety.

Edited: i before e except after 'c' :rolleyes:

[ 12-14-2005, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Billy Bones ]

Billy Bones
12-14-2005, 11:30 AM
Yeah, I used to be horrified that an acquaintance used gobs of electrical tape for replacement tires. Then my proprietary tires went on my rockwell delta 20" bansaw, and since they have grooves in the wheels and crown built into the tires, they were quite expensive. To add insult to (perceived)injury, the drive tire went with a bang and when I got (choked over) the price of the replacement I opted to replace only that tire. Within 90 seconds of running the new tire the idler tire went bang and broke. Thus I had to pay land shipping AND ocean freight AND duty on two separate packages.

My next ones may be the 3M variety.

Edited: i before e except after 'c' :rolleyes:

[ 12-14-2005, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: Billy Bones ]

Garrett Lowell
12-14-2005, 12:08 PM
Joe, the tires should be glued on. I used the 3M adhesive from Carter Products. (http://www.carterproducts.com/options.asp?opt_cat=13&product_id=196&p_id=&cat_id=22) Epoxy would work as well, I think.

Garrett Lowell
12-14-2005, 12:08 PM
Joe, the tires should be glued on. I used the 3M adhesive from Carter Products. (http://www.carterproducts.com/options.asp?opt_cat=13&product_id=196&p_id=&cat_id=22) Epoxy would work as well, I think.

Garrett Lowell
12-14-2005, 12:08 PM
Joe, the tires should be glued on. I used the 3M adhesive from Carter Products. (http://www.carterproducts.com/options.asp?opt_cat=13&product_id=196&p_id=&cat_id=22) Epoxy would work as well, I think.

Old Bingey
12-14-2005, 12:53 PM
Another good glue is that stinking "Pliobond." It will also glue new hook and loop loops on a sander pad. Will almost work on a Fein detail sander... almost. That's a violent little sander.

Old Bingey
12-14-2005, 12:53 PM
Another good glue is that stinking "Pliobond." It will also glue new hook and loop loops on a sander pad. Will almost work on a Fein detail sander... almost. That's a violent little sander.

Old Bingey
12-14-2005, 12:53 PM
Another good glue is that stinking "Pliobond." It will also glue new hook and loop loops on a sander pad. Will almost work on a Fein detail sander... almost. That's a violent little sander.

bugeye
12-21-2005, 08:59 PM
Well I went and did it, despite the funny looks I've gotten from onlookers (I must admit that I derive some pleasure from the funny looks),I went and put duct tape tires on the wooden rims of my old bandsaw. I can enthusiastically say that they work great. I can't yet say that they hold up well, but I resawed some pretty big white oak the other day, and they look the same as they did when I started. Thanks Robb.

bugeye
12-21-2005, 08:59 PM
Well I went and did it, despite the funny looks I've gotten from onlookers (I must admit that I derive some pleasure from the funny looks),I went and put duct tape tires on the wooden rims of my old bandsaw. I can enthusiastically say that they work great. I can't yet say that they hold up well, but I resawed some pretty big white oak the other day, and they look the same as they did when I started. Thanks Robb.

bugeye
12-21-2005, 08:59 PM
Well I went and did it, despite the funny looks I've gotten from onlookers (I must admit that I derive some pleasure from the funny looks),I went and put duct tape tires on the wooden rims of my old bandsaw. I can enthusiastically say that they work great. I can't yet say that they hold up well, but I resawed some pretty big white oak the other day, and they look the same as they did when I started. Thanks Robb.

nedL
12-22-2005, 08:22 AM
Yup, suprised me how well the electrical tape worked too. ;)

nedL
12-22-2005, 08:22 AM
Yup, suprised me how well the electrical tape worked too. ;)

nedL
12-22-2005, 08:22 AM
Yup, suprised me how well the electrical tape worked too. ;)