refinishing mahogany transom

[mack]

I have a 1962 Grady White,22', runabout with a mahogany ply transom(13/4"). The boat has been out of the water for ten years, stored in a barn for the most part but was stored outside last year. The varnish on the transom is all peeling off. After scraping and sanding I wondered if I should stain(mahogany)and varnish or just varnish? I am trying to get the same high quality look the seating areas, etc have. Any suggestions much appreciated.

[mack]

I have a 1962 Grady White,22', runabout with a mahogany ply transom(13/4"). The boat has been out of the water for ten years, stored in a barn for the most part but was stored outside last year. The varnish on the transom is all peeling off. After scraping and sanding I wondered if I should stain(mahogany)and varnish or just varnish? I am trying to get the same high quality look the seating areas, etc have. Any suggestions much appreciated.

[mack]

I have a 1962 Grady White,22', runabout with a mahogany ply transom(13/4"). The boat has been out of the water for ten years, stored in a barn for the most part but was stored outside last year. The varnish on the transom is all peeling off. After scraping and sanding I wondered if I should stain(mahogany)and varnish or just varnish? I am trying to get the same high quality look the seating areas, etc have. Any suggestions much appreciated.

[JimConlin]

Take it step by step.
Carefully remove what remains of the finish. Use a chemical stripper and minimal violence. Someone will pipe in with an opinion of which stripper.
Sand gently with 120 grit.
If there are gray or black stains, try to bleach 'em. There was a WB article recently on the subject. Basically the options are sodium hypochlorite (clorox) and oxalic acid.
Neutralize the bleach and sand gently to 180.
To judge whether the overall surface needs tinting, wipe it with paint thinner. the color will be nearly as dark as the final product.
It it's OK, then you only need to touch up spots. If not, a full staining is needed.
What kind of stain to use depends on the finish system you intend to use.
If you're just going to use varnish, you can use oil based stains. The marine filler stains are muddy in appearance , which I don't like. I prefer the stains from the local paint shop such as Minwax.
If you're a bit more ambitious and plan to use an epoxy base under the varnish, the stains need to be water or alcohol based. I've gotten same from

Johnson Paint in Boston (http://www.johnsonpaint.com/)

There are a couple of ways to go from there, but this'll get you started.

I'm nearby, so contact me off-list if another pair of eyes would help.
Jim

[JimConlin]

Take it step by step.
Carefully remove what remains of the finish. Use a chemical stripper and minimal violence. Someone will pipe in with an opinion of which stripper.
Sand gently with 120 grit.
If there are gray or black stains, try to bleach 'em. There was a WB article recently on the subject. Basically the options are sodium hypochlorite (clorox) and oxalic acid.
Neutralize the bleach and sand gently to 180.
To judge whether the overall surface needs tinting, wipe it with paint thinner. the color will be nearly as dark as the final product.
It it's OK, then you only need to touch up spots. If not, a full staining is needed.
What kind of stain to use depends on the finish system you intend to use.
If you're just going to use varnish, you can use oil based stains. The marine filler stains are muddy in appearance , which I don't like. I prefer the stains from the local paint shop such as Minwax.
If you're a bit more ambitious and plan to use an epoxy base under the varnish, the stains need to be water or alcohol based. I've gotten same from

Johnson Paint in Boston (http://www.johnsonpaint.com/)

There are a couple of ways to go from there, but this'll get you started.

I'm nearby, so contact me off-list if another pair of eyes would help.
Jim

[JimConlin]

Take it step by step.
Carefully remove what remains of the finish. Use a chemical stripper and minimal violence. Someone will pipe in with an opinion of which stripper.
Sand gently with 120 grit.
If there are gray or black stains, try to bleach 'em. There was a WB article recently on the subject. Basically the options are sodium hypochlorite (clorox) and oxalic acid.
Neutralize the bleach and sand gently to 180.
To judge whether the overall surface needs tinting, wipe it with paint thinner. the color will be nearly as dark as the final product.
It it's OK, then you only need to touch up spots. If not, a full staining is needed.
What kind of stain to use depends on the finish system you intend to use.
If you're just going to use varnish, you can use oil based stains. The marine filler stains are muddy in appearance , which I don't like. I prefer the stains from the local paint shop such as Minwax.
If you're a bit more ambitious and plan to use an epoxy base under the varnish, the stains need to be water or alcohol based. I've gotten same from

Johnson Paint in Boston (http://www.johnsonpaint.com/)

There are a couple of ways to go from there, but this'll get you started.

I'm nearby, so contact me off-list if another pair of eyes would help.
Jim

[Nicholas Carey]

I'd vote for a heat gun and scraper instead of stripper. Easier on the skin and lungs. Not to mention the environment. Faster, too. use a Pro-Prep brand scraper — they rock. Heads available in all sorts of profiles.

Bleach with a two-part wood bleach such as Jasco. TE-KA works great on teak, but don't know how well it works on mahogany. (Note that TE-KA will destroy most polysulfide-esque caulk, adhesives and sealants. Be careful out there!)

If the mahogany is seriously degraded/delignified from UV or exposure to weather, mechanical removal/replacement of the damaged wood (read: sanding) may be your only option if you want it bright.

[ 06-02-2003, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

I'd vote for a heat gun and scraper instead of stripper. Easier on the skin and lungs. Not to mention the environment. Faster, too. use a Pro-Prep brand scraper — they rock. Heads available in all sorts of profiles.

Bleach with a two-part wood bleach such as Jasco. TE-KA works great on teak, but don't know how well it works on mahogany. (Note that TE-KA will destroy most polysulfide-esque caulk, adhesives and sealants. Be careful out there!)

If the mahogany is seriously degraded/delignified from UV or exposure to weather, mechanical removal/replacement of the damaged wood (read: sanding) may be your only option if you want it bright.

[ 06-02-2003, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

I'd vote for a heat gun and scraper instead of stripper. Easier on the skin and lungs. Not to mention the environment. Faster, too. use a Pro-Prep brand scraper — they rock. Heads available in all sorts of profiles.

Bleach with a two-part wood bleach such as Jasco. TE-KA works great on teak, but don't know how well it works on mahogany. (Note that TE-KA will destroy most polysulfide-esque caulk, adhesives and sealants. Be careful out there!)

If the mahogany is seriously degraded/delignified from UV or exposure to weather, mechanical removal/replacement of the damaged wood (read: sanding) may be your only option if you want it bright.

[ 06-02-2003, 07:08 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Concordia..41]

I've used Te-Ka on our mahogany ceiling boards with great results HOWEVER they were removed from the boat and in a controlled environment i.e. we took sections of gutter capped at each end and made two "baths" and kept a water hose handy to rinse before, during and after. I'd be very leary about using Te-Ka on a vertical surface where it's going to run and possibly not soak in or neutralize evenly. :rolleyes:

I'll see if I've got some pictures of Sarah's transom scanned. It had a zillion coats of paint which I painstakingly standed to reveal a dark spot the size (and color) of a large eggplant right in the middle :( Several rounds with oxylic acid did the trick.

Edited to add pictures:

http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/Pic/Transoms.jpg

More at: Wooding and Varnishing Transom (http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/transom.htm)

[ 06-02-2003, 08:03 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]

[Concordia..41]

I've used Te-Ka on our mahogany ceiling boards with great results HOWEVER they were removed from the boat and in a controlled environment i.e. we took sections of gutter capped at each end and made two "baths" and kept a water hose handy to rinse before, during and after. I'd be very leary about using Te-Ka on a vertical surface where it's going to run and possibly not soak in or neutralize evenly. :rolleyes:

I'll see if I've got some pictures of Sarah's transom scanned. It had a zillion coats of paint which I painstakingly standed to reveal a dark spot the size (and color) of a large eggplant right in the middle :( Several rounds with oxylic acid did the trick.

Edited to add pictures:

http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/Pic/Transoms.jpg

More at: Wooding and Varnishing Transom (http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/transom.htm)

[ 06-02-2003, 08:03 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]

[Concordia..41]

I've used Te-Ka on our mahogany ceiling boards with great results HOWEVER they were removed from the boat and in a controlled environment i.e. we took sections of gutter capped at each end and made two "baths" and kept a water hose handy to rinse before, during and after. I'd be very leary about using Te-Ka on a vertical surface where it's going to run and possibly not soak in or neutralize evenly. :rolleyes:

I'll see if I've got some pictures of Sarah's transom scanned. It had a zillion coats of paint which I painstakingly standed to reveal a dark spot the size (and color) of a large eggplant right in the middle :( Several rounds with oxylic acid did the trick.

Edited to add pictures:

http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/Pic/Transoms.jpg

More at: Wooding and Varnishing Transom (http://www.sailingwithsarah.com/transom.htm)

[ 06-02-2003, 08:03 PM: Message edited by: Concordia..41 ]