Permanent moorings

[beauchez]

I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that. I remember reading an article by Dynamite Payson on the subject, but can't recall where, and it doesn't come up in the Woodenboat index. If anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. For what it's worth, this is to go into a northern Ontario lake, reasonably well protected, bottom is solid granite as far as I know, about 15 feel of water I think.

[beauchez]

I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that. I remember reading an article by Dynamite Payson on the subject, but can't recall where, and it doesn't come up in the Woodenboat index. If anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. For what it's worth, this is to go into a northern Ontario lake, reasonably well protected, bottom is solid granite as far as I know, about 15 feel of water I think.

[beauchez]

I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that. I remember reading an article by Dynamite Payson on the subject, but can't recall where, and it doesn't come up in the Woodenboat index. If anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. For what it's worth, this is to go into a northern Ontario lake, reasonably well protected, bottom is solid granite as far as I know, about 15 feel of water I think.

[Gary Bergman]

If you are in an area that has much agriculture, try the nearest farmer and see if he has any old tractor rims. They are by far our favorite freshwater trick here in the Dakotas.

[Gary Bergman]

If you are in an area that has much agriculture, try the nearest farmer and see if he has any old tractor rims. They are by far our favorite freshwater trick here in the Dakotas.

[Gary Bergman]

If you are in an area that has much agriculture, try the nearest farmer and see if he has any old tractor rims. They are by far our favorite freshwater trick here in the Dakotas.

[Will]

beauchez ,Hamilton Marine's catalog ,www.hamiltonmarine.com has a great one page presentation of proper mooring practice . The same setup is mandated by the harbormaster in Noank Conn., where my brother moores ,so I would say this is the New England norm at least .

I can't match their presentation and expertise , so I highly recommend the free catalog.I will mention one critical refinement: top chain and bottom chain . The botom chain is huge second hand (idealy) stuff that doesn't even need to be galvanized in salt water ; it's so oversized in regards to strength.Length one and one half times maximum depth.In normal weather it's static on the bottom .In a blow it's lifted off the bottom and becomes a dynamic part of the mooring system ,smoothing out the surge loads .The top chain is galvanized , sized to the load (3/8th in.), and equal in length to the maximum depth . This is the part the bouy holds up (hamilton marine has got them ).

The further North you are the shorter the sailing season .There may be some great late season sailing that many miss ,But , if you want to stay afloat longer than others you need a stauncher mooring than others ; it will be tested . Don,t let the locals talk you out of a heavy mooring system unless you're content to haul out when they do . Chafe at the chock can be a weak point ,so you would need chafing gear there . It's understood that you have no interest in sailing in a late September gale ,but a big front may pass thru during the week and leave fine sailing weather on the weekend .

[Will]

beauchez ,Hamilton Marine's catalog ,www.hamiltonmarine.com has a great one page presentation of proper mooring practice . The same setup is mandated by the harbormaster in Noank Conn., where my brother moores ,so I would say this is the New England norm at least .

I can't match their presentation and expertise , so I highly recommend the free catalog.I will mention one critical refinement: top chain and bottom chain . The botom chain is huge second hand (idealy) stuff that doesn't even need to be galvanized in salt water ; it's so oversized in regards to strength.Length one and one half times maximum depth.In normal weather it's static on the bottom .In a blow it's lifted off the bottom and becomes a dynamic part of the mooring system ,smoothing out the surge loads .The top chain is galvanized , sized to the load (3/8th in.), and equal in length to the maximum depth . This is the part the bouy holds up (hamilton marine has got them ).

The further North you are the shorter the sailing season .There may be some great late season sailing that many miss ,But , if you want to stay afloat longer than others you need a stauncher mooring than others ; it will be tested . Don,t let the locals talk you out of a heavy mooring system unless you're content to haul out when they do . Chafe at the chock can be a weak point ,so you would need chafing gear there . It's understood that you have no interest in sailing in a late September gale ,but a big front may pass thru during the week and leave fine sailing weather on the weekend .

[Will]

beauchez ,Hamilton Marine's catalog ,www.hamiltonmarine.com has a great one page presentation of proper mooring practice . The same setup is mandated by the harbormaster in Noank Conn., where my brother moores ,so I would say this is the New England norm at least .

I can't match their presentation and expertise , so I highly recommend the free catalog.I will mention one critical refinement: top chain and bottom chain . The botom chain is huge second hand (idealy) stuff that doesn't even need to be galvanized in salt water ; it's so oversized in regards to strength.Length one and one half times maximum depth.In normal weather it's static on the bottom .In a blow it's lifted off the bottom and becomes a dynamic part of the mooring system ,smoothing out the surge loads .The top chain is galvanized , sized to the load (3/8th in.), and equal in length to the maximum depth . This is the part the bouy holds up (hamilton marine has got them ).

The further North you are the shorter the sailing season .There may be some great late season sailing that many miss ,But , if you want to stay afloat longer than others you need a stauncher mooring than others ; it will be tested . Don,t let the locals talk you out of a heavy mooring system unless you're content to haul out when they do . Chafe at the chock can be a weak point ,so you would need chafing gear there . It's understood that you have no interest in sailing in a late September gale ,but a big front may pass thru during the week and leave fine sailing weather on the weekend .

[Ron Williamson]

In our river harbour, we pour concrete mooring blocks 3'x3'x1'with a loop of 1/2" steel rod sticking out the top.These are handled by a small 6 oil-drum barge,in and out every yeardue to ice scouring at breakup in the spring.
A mooring made from a V-8 engine block would be pretty lousy due to the shape(roundish)and density(low)and contaminants(lots).
Have fun
R

[Ron Williamson]

In our river harbour, we pour concrete mooring blocks 3'x3'x1'with a loop of 1/2" steel rod sticking out the top.These are handled by a small 6 oil-drum barge,in and out every yeardue to ice scouring at breakup in the spring.
A mooring made from a V-8 engine block would be pretty lousy due to the shape(roundish)and density(low)and contaminants(lots).
Have fun
R

[Ron Williamson]

In our river harbour, we pour concrete mooring blocks 3'x3'x1'with a loop of 1/2" steel rod sticking out the top.These are handled by a small 6 oil-drum barge,in and out every yeardue to ice scouring at breakup in the spring.
A mooring made from a V-8 engine block would be pretty lousy due to the shape(roundish)and density(low)and contaminants(lots).
Have fun
R

[mmd]

Environment Canada takes a very dim view of putting motor blocks in our waterways because of the residual oil pollution - merely draining the oil from the basepan doesn't cut it. I like Gary Bergman's idea much more than tossing a motor block in the water. Not only is it cleaner, but due to it's shape, it is much more stable on the bottom (try rolling a large rim over as opposed to rolling a motor block). Also, if you thread the chain thru the rim's axle hole and weld or otherwise fasten it to a plate, it will rotate on the rim thereby allowing the boat to swing around the mooring without twisting the chain. If you must use a motor, take it to a mechanic's or machine shop & have it properly flushed and rinsed.

[mmd]

Environment Canada takes a very dim view of putting motor blocks in our waterways because of the residual oil pollution - merely draining the oil from the basepan doesn't cut it. I like Gary Bergman's idea much more than tossing a motor block in the water. Not only is it cleaner, but due to it's shape, it is much more stable on the bottom (try rolling a large rim over as opposed to rolling a motor block). Also, if you thread the chain thru the rim's axle hole and weld or otherwise fasten it to a plate, it will rotate on the rim thereby allowing the boat to swing around the mooring without twisting the chain. If you must use a motor, take it to a mechanic's or machine shop & have it properly flushed and rinsed.

[mmd]

Environment Canada takes a very dim view of putting motor blocks in our waterways because of the residual oil pollution - merely draining the oil from the basepan doesn't cut it. I like Gary Bergman's idea much more than tossing a motor block in the water. Not only is it cleaner, but due to it's shape, it is much more stable on the bottom (try rolling a large rim over as opposed to rolling a motor block). Also, if you thread the chain thru the rim's axle hole and weld or otherwise fasten it to a plate, it will rotate on the rim thereby allowing the boat to swing around the mooring without twisting the chain. If you must use a motor, take it to a mechanic's or machine shop & have it properly flushed and rinsed.

[Gary Bergman]

I have used motors in the past{30 years ago} but they work lousy besides the polution. With a 50 m.p.h. blow, I've had them drag like a 12 lb. river anchor. Plus, with a tractor rim, you can roll it to your boat for placement.

[Gary Bergman]

I have used motors in the past{30 years ago} but they work lousy besides the polution. With a 50 m.p.h. blow, I've had them drag like a 12 lb. river anchor. Plus, with a tractor rim, you can roll it to your boat for placement.

[Gary Bergman]

I have used motors in the past{30 years ago} but they work lousy besides the polution. With a 50 m.p.h. blow, I've had them drag like a 12 lb. river anchor. Plus, with a tractor rim, you can roll it to your boat for placement.

[Bruce Hooke]

Two random thoughts - There are some advantages to spending the money for something that was designed as an anchor rather than as something else completely unrelated. The typical anchor for this sort of job is a mushroom and pound for pound it will hold better than blocks of concrete or stone, tractor rims, etc. The weight of your moaring may not matter to you but think first about if and how you are going to haul it for the winter. It is a lot easier to haul a 100 pound mushroom than a 500 pound hunk of concrete if you have to do it yourself. Also, in a real blow the mushroom will hold in ways that a chunk of concrete or a tractor rim cannot. That said, lots of people seem to do fine with tractor rims, concrete, granite blocks, etc. You just need to consider things like how exposed the location is in a storm, and how you are going to haul and set the moaring.

However, much of what I just said may need to be modified if you are in fact dealing with setting a moaring on a granite bottom. In that case there is nothing for an anchor to sink into so straight weight may be your only option. Granite blocks may be readily available in your area, as they are in Maine, in which case that can be a good solution. However, even if the shoreline is granite the bottom may well be mud. This is true of many of Maine's harbors. So, some investigation of the bottom may be in order. If you have a proper lead line that can be "armed" with tallow that would be the proper way to do this investigation but a chunck of metal on the end of rope will tell you a lot.

[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 07-02-2001).]

[Bruce Hooke]

Two random thoughts - There are some advantages to spending the money for something that was designed as an anchor rather than as something else completely unrelated. The typical anchor for this sort of job is a mushroom and pound for pound it will hold better than blocks of concrete or stone, tractor rims, etc. The weight of your moaring may not matter to you but think first about if and how you are going to haul it for the winter. It is a lot easier to haul a 100 pound mushroom than a 500 pound hunk of concrete if you have to do it yourself. Also, in a real blow the mushroom will hold in ways that a chunk of concrete or a tractor rim cannot. That said, lots of people seem to do fine with tractor rims, concrete, granite blocks, etc. You just need to consider things like how exposed the location is in a storm, and how you are going to haul and set the moaring.

However, much of what I just said may need to be modified if you are in fact dealing with setting a moaring on a granite bottom. In that case there is nothing for an anchor to sink into so straight weight may be your only option. Granite blocks may be readily available in your area, as they are in Maine, in which case that can be a good solution. However, even if the shoreline is granite the bottom may well be mud. This is true of many of Maine's harbors. So, some investigation of the bottom may be in order. If you have a proper lead line that can be "armed" with tallow that would be the proper way to do this investigation but a chunck of metal on the end of rope will tell you a lot.

[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 07-02-2001).]

[Bruce Hooke]

Two random thoughts - There are some advantages to spending the money for something that was designed as an anchor rather than as something else completely unrelated. The typical anchor for this sort of job is a mushroom and pound for pound it will hold better than blocks of concrete or stone, tractor rims, etc. The weight of your moaring may not matter to you but think first about if and how you are going to haul it for the winter. It is a lot easier to haul a 100 pound mushroom than a 500 pound hunk of concrete if you have to do it yourself. Also, in a real blow the mushroom will hold in ways that a chunk of concrete or a tractor rim cannot. That said, lots of people seem to do fine with tractor rims, concrete, granite blocks, etc. You just need to consider things like how exposed the location is in a storm, and how you are going to haul and set the moaring.

However, much of what I just said may need to be modified if you are in fact dealing with setting a moaring on a granite bottom. In that case there is nothing for an anchor to sink into so straight weight may be your only option. Granite blocks may be readily available in your area, as they are in Maine, in which case that can be a good solution. However, even if the shoreline is granite the bottom may well be mud. This is true of many of Maine's harbors. So, some investigation of the bottom may be in order. If you have a proper lead line that can be "armed" with tallow that would be the proper way to do this investigation but a chunck of metal on the end of rope will tell you a lot.

[This message has been edited by Bruce Hooke (edited 07-02-2001).]

[beauchez]

Thanks for all of the responses - I really appreciate all of the above info. Obviously the V-8 was a dumb idea - good conversation starter though.

[beauchez]

Thanks for all of the responses - I really appreciate all of the above info. Obviously the V-8 was a dumb idea - good conversation starter though.

[beauchez]

Thanks for all of the responses - I really appreciate all of the above info. Obviously the V-8 was a dumb idea - good conversation starter though.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by beauchez:
I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that.

Here in Seattle, people use 4,000 lb "ecology blocks" -- basically a huge chunk of concrete with a staple in it.

If you're bottom is actually solid granite, you've got something resembling a problem because you're going to drag.

You might take a look at a systems like these:

http://www.abchance.com/mooring.html

http://www.navbuoy.com/mooring_gear.htm

The other thing to note is that you may want to check with the relevant authorities -- there may be cite, state/provincial and/or federal laws pertaining. Your local harbormaster and/or the Canadian or US Coast Guard may have regulatory authority as well.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by beauchez:
I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that.

Here in Seattle, people use 4,000 lb "ecology blocks" -- basically a huge chunk of concrete with a staple in it.

If you're bottom is actually solid granite, you've got something resembling a problem because you're going to drag.

You might take a look at a systems like these:

http://www.abchance.com/mooring.html

http://www.navbuoy.com/mooring_gear.htm

The other thing to note is that you may want to check with the relevant authorities -- there may be cite, state/provincial and/or federal laws pertaining. Your local harbormaster and/or the Canadian or US Coast Guard may have regulatory authority as well.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by beauchez:
I recently bought a Nordic Folkboat, and want to keep it on a mooring. Seems pretty simple, everyone says you just attach some chain to an old Ford V-8 and drop it to the bottom, I'm just wondering if there might be a little more to it than that.

Here in Seattle, people use 4,000 lb "ecology blocks" -- basically a huge chunk of concrete with a staple in it.

If you're bottom is actually solid granite, you've got something resembling a problem because you're going to drag.

You might take a look at a systems like these:

http://www.abchance.com/mooring.html

http://www.navbuoy.com/mooring_gear.htm

The other thing to note is that you may want to check with the relevant authorities -- there may be cite, state/provincial and/or federal laws pertaining. Your local harbormaster and/or the Canadian or US Coast Guard may have regulatory authority as well.

[Ross Faneuf]

Here on the Maine coast most harbormasters have specific regulations about you can/must put down for a mooring - including minimum block weihts or mushroom sizes, bottom and top chain sizes, mooring ball type, and pennant type. You may not be faced with anything so specific, but the first thing you should do is check the local regulations.

I'll second the advice about Hamilton's - they sell a lot of moorings.

[Ross Faneuf]

Here on the Maine coast most harbormasters have specific regulations about you can/must put down for a mooring - including minimum block weihts or mushroom sizes, bottom and top chain sizes, mooring ball type, and pennant type. You may not be faced with anything so specific, but the first thing you should do is check the local regulations.

I'll second the advice about Hamilton's - they sell a lot of moorings.

[Ross Faneuf]

Here on the Maine coast most harbormasters have specific regulations about you can/must put down for a mooring - including minimum block weihts or mushroom sizes, bottom and top chain sizes, mooring ball type, and pennant type. You may not be faced with anything so specific, but the first thing you should do is check the local regulations.

I'll second the advice about Hamilton's - they sell a lot of moorings.