Round Thimbles

[gary porter]

I'm trying to sew up a ditty bag and learn something about sewing sailcloth and perhaps making a small sail for my dinghys. I'm looking for what they call round thimbles to put in cringles & such but am having a hard time finding them. I'm only familiar with the regular thimbles . Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Gary

[gary porter]

I'm trying to sew up a ditty bag and learn something about sewing sailcloth and perhaps making a small sail for my dinghys. I'm looking for what they call round thimbles to put in cringles & such but am having a hard time finding them. I'm only familiar with the regular thimbles . Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Gary

[gary porter]

I'm trying to sew up a ditty bag and learn something about sewing sailcloth and perhaps making a small sail for my dinghys. I'm looking for what they call round thimbles to put in cringles & such but am having a hard time finding them. I'm only familiar with the regular thimbles . Any help is appreciated.
Thanks.
Gary

[NormMessinger]

Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.

[NormMessinger]

Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.

[NormMessinger]

Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.

[gary porter]

Originally posted by NormMessinger:
Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.Thanks for the link Norm,, but I don't seem to find the thimbles only various grommets which don't seem to be quite right. I may have to give up and just use some sort of grommet anyway.
Not sure if I can make one or not..
Thanks again.
Gary

[gary porter]

Originally posted by NormMessinger:
Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.Thanks for the link Norm,, but I don't seem to find the thimbles only various grommets which don't seem to be quite right. I may have to give up and just use some sort of grommet anyway.
Not sure if I can make one or not..
Thanks again.
Gary

[gary porter]

Originally posted by NormMessinger:
Sailrite has them. ( www.sailrite.com (http://www.sailrite.com) )

Some here have made their own from copper pipe but my attempts to do so have failed.Thanks for the link Norm,, but I don't seem to find the thimbles only various grommets which don't seem to be quite right. I may have to give up and just use some sort of grommet anyway.
Not sure if I can make one or not..
Thanks again.
Gary

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
I think what you want really are grommets, Gary, by the sound of it. (I imagine the spurred two-piece ones would be the most suitable.)

A thimble such as those Norm's speaking about is the metal fitting that goes inside the strop of a rope-stropped block, usually ½" wide or more --

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/block1.jpg

Dave Goodchild describes the thimble-making process very well here (http://catalog.com/bobpone/RopeThimbles.htm).

Mike
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
I think what you want really are grommets, Gary, by the sound of it. (I imagine the spurred two-piece ones would be the most suitable.)

A thimble such as those Norm's speaking about is the metal fitting that goes inside the strop of a rope-stropped block, usually ½" wide or more --

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/block1.jpg

Dave Goodchild describes the thimble-making process very well here (http://catalog.com/bobpone/RopeThimbles.htm).

Mike
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
I think what you want really are grommets, Gary, by the sound of it. (I imagine the spurred two-piece ones would be the most suitable.)

A thimble such as those Norm's speaking about is the metal fitting that goes inside the strop of a rope-stropped block, usually ½" wide or more --

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/block1.jpg

Dave Goodchild describes the thimble-making process very well here (http://catalog.com/bobpone/RopeThimbles.htm).

Mike
.

[Todd Bradshaw]

No, what he really wants ARE brass round thimbles. Sailrite sells two sizes:
Catalog #29405 is 5/8" I.D, 1" O.D. for 3/8" line
Catalog # 26106 is 3/4" I.D., 1,25" O.D. and for 1/2" line. They have no teeth and come completely pre-formed (you don't flare one side like a grommet on installation)

They look like the one shown on the left half of this photo.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pfc7b300f2a3c9a30c1879cd1f80005a0/faa3d761.jpg

If you plan to set many of them, you may want to build yourself a couple of take-apart fids like these. They allow you to drive the fid and thimble into a cringle in one move, rather than fid the hole, pull the fid and then try to pound the thimble onto the hole before it draws back up.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid89/p67b073bc4029defc0cb6b7f4fcfa2446/fa81b8a6.jpg

[Todd Bradshaw]

No, what he really wants ARE brass round thimbles. Sailrite sells two sizes:
Catalog #29405 is 5/8" I.D, 1" O.D. for 3/8" line
Catalog # 26106 is 3/4" I.D., 1,25" O.D. and for 1/2" line. They have no teeth and come completely pre-formed (you don't flare one side like a grommet on installation)

They look like the one shown on the left half of this photo.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pfc7b300f2a3c9a30c1879cd1f80005a0/faa3d761.jpg

If you plan to set many of them, you may want to build yourself a couple of take-apart fids like these. They allow you to drive the fid and thimble into a cringle in one move, rather than fid the hole, pull the fid and then try to pound the thimble onto the hole before it draws back up.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid89/p67b073bc4029defc0cb6b7f4fcfa2446/fa81b8a6.jpg

[Todd Bradshaw]

No, what he really wants ARE brass round thimbles. Sailrite sells two sizes:
Catalog #29405 is 5/8" I.D, 1" O.D. for 3/8" line
Catalog # 26106 is 3/4" I.D., 1,25" O.D. and for 1/2" line. They have no teeth and come completely pre-formed (you don't flare one side like a grommet on installation)

They look like the one shown on the left half of this photo.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid87/pfc7b300f2a3c9a30c1879cd1f80005a0/faa3d761.jpg

If you plan to set many of them, you may want to build yourself a couple of take-apart fids like these. They allow you to drive the fid and thimble into a cringle in one move, rather than fid the hole, pull the fid and then try to pound the thimble onto the hole before it draws back up.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid89/p67b073bc4029defc0cb6b7f4fcfa2446/fa81b8a6.jpg

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have never seen those before, Todd - what a good idea!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have never seen those before, Todd - what a good idea!

[Andrew Craig-Bennett]

I have never seen those before, Todd - what a good idea!

[Todd Bradshaw]

I can't remember where I got the idea, but don't believe it was my own. A proper thimble really has to be a tight fit in a cringle - tight enough that it shouldn't spin (though there is usually a little bit on really small ones if you try to spin them). I got really frustrated with trying to get the thimble seated by stretching the rope loop, taking the fid out and hammering on them so I spent an afternoon playing at the lathe and made a fid for each size of thimble that I normally use. Along with the fids, I have a cedar plank with holes bored in it just big enough for each model. I weave the rope loop undersized, position it over the hole in the plank, up-end the "loaded" fid, stick it's tip through the loop and down into the hole and give the back end a few whacks with a mallet. The plank supports the rope and fabric and the fid drives the thimble into the loop and then comes apart, leaving the installed thimble.

It works great and is kind of fun. I just wish I could do more of them but they're pricy. First of all, the sail has to be roped, which isn't cheap and then it can take anywhere from about 60-90 minutes to install and connect the anchor grommets or small sewn rings and to weave the loop. I wind-up charging $25-$30 each for small cringles and still don't break even on the time and materials. For most of the small sails I build they are more of a fancy cosmetic upgrade than needed for strength. A spur grommet will usually do the job just fine, costs about five cents and takes ten seconds to install.

[ 08-18-2004, 04:58 AM: Message edited by: Todd Bradshaw ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

I can't remember where I got the idea, but don't believe it was my own. A proper thimble really has to be a tight fit in a cringle - tight enough that it shouldn't spin (though there is usually a little bit on really small ones if you try to spin them). I got really frustrated with trying to get the thimble seated by stretching the rope loop, taking the fid out and hammering on them so I spent an afternoon playing at the lathe and made a fid for each size of thimble that I normally use. Along with the fids, I have a cedar plank with holes bored in it just big enough for each model. I weave the rope loop undersized, position it over the hole in the plank, up-end the "loaded" fid, stick it's tip through the loop and down into the hole and give the back end a few whacks with a mallet. The plank supports the rope and fabric and the fid drives the thimble into the loop and then comes apart, leaving the installed thimble.

It works great and is kind of fun. I just wish I could do more of them but they're pricy. First of all, the sail has to be roped, which isn't cheap and then it can take anywhere from about 60-90 minutes to install and connect the anchor grommets or small sewn rings and to weave the loop. I wind-up charging $25-$30 each for small cringles and still don't break even on the time and materials. For most of the small sails I build they are more of a fancy cosmetic upgrade than needed for strength. A spur grommet will usually do the job just fine, costs about five cents and takes ten seconds to install.

[ 08-18-2004, 04:58 AM: Message edited by: Todd Bradshaw ]

[Todd Bradshaw]

I can't remember where I got the idea, but don't believe it was my own. A proper thimble really has to be a tight fit in a cringle - tight enough that it shouldn't spin (though there is usually a little bit on really small ones if you try to spin them). I got really frustrated with trying to get the thimble seated by stretching the rope loop, taking the fid out and hammering on them so I spent an afternoon playing at the lathe and made a fid for each size of thimble that I normally use. Along with the fids, I have a cedar plank with holes bored in it just big enough for each model. I weave the rope loop undersized, position it over the hole in the plank, up-end the "loaded" fid, stick it's tip through the loop and down into the hole and give the back end a few whacks with a mallet. The plank supports the rope and fabric and the fid drives the thimble into the loop and then comes apart, leaving the installed thimble.

It works great and is kind of fun. I just wish I could do more of them but they're pricy. First of all, the sail has to be roped, which isn't cheap and then it can take anywhere from about 60-90 minutes to install and connect the anchor grommets or small sewn rings and to weave the loop. I wind-up charging $25-$30 each for small cringles and still don't break even on the time and materials. For most of the small sails I build they are more of a fancy cosmetic upgrade than needed for strength. A spur grommet will usually do the job just fine, costs about five cents and takes ten seconds to install.

[ 08-18-2004, 04:58 AM: Message edited by: Todd Bradshaw ]

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Thanks Todd -- good stuff.

Mike

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Thanks Todd -- good stuff.

Mike

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Thanks Todd -- good stuff.

Mike

[gary porter]

Mike and Todd, Thats exactly what I'm looking for.
Thimble , round. I really wanted ones for 1/4" but I can make the 3/8" work. Thanks for the info. Todd those are pretty cool devices , haven't seen such before. I think I might make one or so just to try it. I doubt that I will ever be doing what one would call a lot of these but you never know. Right now I'm just trying to learn the process.
Thanks again.
gary

[gary porter]

Mike and Todd, Thats exactly what I'm looking for.
Thimble , round. I really wanted ones for 1/4" but I can make the 3/8" work. Thanks for the info. Todd those are pretty cool devices , haven't seen such before. I think I might make one or so just to try it. I doubt that I will ever be doing what one would call a lot of these but you never know. Right now I'm just trying to learn the process.
Thanks again.
gary

[gary porter]

Mike and Todd, Thats exactly what I'm looking for.
Thimble , round. I really wanted ones for 1/4" but I can make the 3/8" work. Thanks for the info. Todd those are pretty cool devices , haven't seen such before. I think I might make one or so just to try it. I doubt that I will ever be doing what one would call a lot of these but you never know. Right now I'm just trying to learn the process.
Thanks again.
gary

[gary porter]

Norm, Todd, Mike, Called Sailrite and got just what I was looking for even the ones with 1/4" score. Just took a little more digging on their website. Thanks all again.
Gary

[gary porter]

Norm, Todd, Mike, Called Sailrite and got just what I was looking for even the ones with 1/4" score. Just took a little more digging on their website. Thanks all again.
Gary

[gary porter]

Norm, Todd, Mike, Called Sailrite and got just what I was looking for even the ones with 1/4" score. Just took a little more digging on their website. Thanks all again.
Gary

[Brian Palmer]

Regarding the illustration for making your own thimbles: One thing I remember being told in high-school shop was never to hit two hammer heads together because the hardened steel is brittle and can fly off in chips. I saw this happen once when someone was using one hammer to seat another head on a new handle. Better to use a wood mallet or other soft metal hammer for striking the second ball peen hammer face.

Just $0.02.

Brian

[Brian Palmer]

Regarding the illustration for making your own thimbles: One thing I remember being told in high-school shop was never to hit two hammer heads together because the hardened steel is brittle and can fly off in chips. I saw this happen once when someone was using one hammer to seat another head on a new handle. Better to use a wood mallet or other soft metal hammer for striking the second ball peen hammer face.

Just $0.02.

Brian

[Brian Palmer]

Regarding the illustration for making your own thimbles: One thing I remember being told in high-school shop was never to hit two hammer heads together because the hardened steel is brittle and can fly off in chips. I saw this happen once when someone was using one hammer to seat another head on a new handle. Better to use a wood mallet or other soft metal hammer for striking the second ball peen hammer face.

Just $0.02.

Brian

[Phil Young]

Todd, that little piece of sculpture in canvas on the left is beautiful.

[Phil Young]

Todd, that little piece of sculpture in canvas on the left is beautiful.

[Phil Young]

Todd, that little piece of sculpture in canvas on the left is beautiful.

[Dave Hadfield]

I wouldn't worry about bits flying off hammers when making these thimbles. You don't use much force. A series of gentle taps, along with heating the copper, is what works.

I've made quite a few -- 30? Not all are perfect, but most are quite serviceable; one of the blocks in the mainsheet for my 40ft ketch is a rope-stropped mortised pin-block (no roller bearings) with a wood (jotoba) sheave and a copper thimble. Works fine.

For the thimbles I use 3/4" copper pipe joiners which I cut in half. Then the 3-hammer method with a propane torch. I also use the flat hot top of my wood stove if the flare starts getting lopsided.

In use, I've never had one deform. The loads on my rigging have never been that high.

[Dave Hadfield]

I wouldn't worry about bits flying off hammers when making these thimbles. You don't use much force. A series of gentle taps, along with heating the copper, is what works.

I've made quite a few -- 30? Not all are perfect, but most are quite serviceable; one of the blocks in the mainsheet for my 40ft ketch is a rope-stropped mortised pin-block (no roller bearings) with a wood (jotoba) sheave and a copper thimble. Works fine.

For the thimbles I use 3/4" copper pipe joiners which I cut in half. Then the 3-hammer method with a propane torch. I also use the flat hot top of my wood stove if the flare starts getting lopsided.

In use, I've never had one deform. The loads on my rigging have never been that high.

[Dave Hadfield]

I wouldn't worry about bits flying off hammers when making these thimbles. You don't use much force. A series of gentle taps, along with heating the copper, is what works.

I've made quite a few -- 30? Not all are perfect, but most are quite serviceable; one of the blocks in the mainsheet for my 40ft ketch is a rope-stropped mortised pin-block (no roller bearings) with a wood (jotoba) sheave and a copper thimble. Works fine.

For the thimbles I use 3/4" copper pipe joiners which I cut in half. Then the 3-hammer method with a propane torch. I also use the flat hot top of my wood stove if the flare starts getting lopsided.

In use, I've never had one deform. The loads on my rigging have never been that high.