Home-built router.

[guillemot]

I've been thinking about getting a router but don't have aany expendable income just now. I also have not used routers much at all before, so I don't know what would make a good/useful one. Has anyone here ever built one from scratch? Google search left me high and dry.

A table mounted router seems like a pretty simple piece of hardware - hard to believe no one's ever made one. I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year. How would you all go about doing this? Parts lists, gearing, design sketches, other suggestions...

I will cross post a link in building/repair.

Jeff

[guillemot]

I've been thinking about getting a router but don't have aany expendable income just now. I also have not used routers much at all before, so I don't know what would make a good/useful one. Has anyone here ever built one from scratch? Google search left me high and dry.

A table mounted router seems like a pretty simple piece of hardware - hard to believe no one's ever made one. I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year. How would you all go about doing this? Parts lists, gearing, design sketches, other suggestions...

I will cross post a link in building/repair.

Jeff

[guillemot]

I've been thinking about getting a router but don't have aany expendable income just now. I also have not used routers much at all before, so I don't know what would make a good/useful one. Has anyone here ever built one from scratch? Google search left me high and dry.

A table mounted router seems like a pretty simple piece of hardware - hard to believe no one's ever made one. I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year. How would you all go about doing this? Parts lists, gearing, design sketches, other suggestions...

I will cross post a link in building/repair.

Jeff

[hikingchrs]

There are some tools that lend themselves to being built at home... a router is not one of them... a router table can be built but the router itself should not... the speeds of the bits are high... you should be able to find a router for fairly cheaply I bought a small Black and Decker last summer at a yard sale for $15... look around maybe E-Bay...
Chris

[hikingchrs]

There are some tools that lend themselves to being built at home... a router is not one of them... a router table can be built but the router itself should not... the speeds of the bits are high... you should be able to find a router for fairly cheaply I bought a small Black and Decker last summer at a yard sale for $15... look around maybe E-Bay...
Chris

[hikingchrs]

There are some tools that lend themselves to being built at home... a router is not one of them... a router table can be built but the router itself should not... the speeds of the bits are high... you should be able to find a router for fairly cheaply I bought a small Black and Decker last summer at a yard sale for $15... look around maybe E-Bay...
Chris

[Bruce Hooke]

As Chris said (while I was typing), one big problem is likely to be the RPM's. IIRC most routers run at something like 25,000 RPM, which is a whole lot faster than most standard electric motors. By the time you've rigged up some sort of gearbox to step up the speed (I'm not sure I'd trust belts for something turning at 25,000 RPM) I'd bet that you will be pushing up towards the cost of a basic router and you would still need to add height adjustment capability, depth stops and so on to match the functionality of that low-cost router.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

As Chris said (while I was typing), one big problem is likely to be the RPM's. IIRC most routers run at something like 25,000 RPM, which is a whole lot faster than most standard electric motors. By the time you've rigged up some sort of gearbox to step up the speed (I'm not sure I'd trust belts for something turning at 25,000 RPM) I'd bet that you will be pushing up towards the cost of a basic router and you would still need to add height adjustment capability, depth stops and so on to match the functionality of that low-cost router.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

As Chris said (while I was typing), one big problem is likely to be the RPM's. IIRC most routers run at something like 25,000 RPM, which is a whole lot faster than most standard electric motors. By the time you've rigged up some sort of gearbox to step up the speed (I'm not sure I'd trust belts for something turning at 25,000 RPM) I'd bet that you will be pushing up towards the cost of a basic router and you would still need to add height adjustment capability, depth stops and so on to match the functionality of that low-cost router.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:26 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[kc8pql]

Most routers run between 18000 and 22000 rpm. That's gonna be tough to do with a blower motor.

Edit: Looks like we all jumped at the same time.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[kc8pql]

Most routers run between 18000 and 22000 rpm. That's gonna be tough to do with a blower motor.

Edit: Looks like we all jumped at the same time.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[kc8pql]

Most routers run between 18000 and 22000 rpm. That's gonna be tough to do with a blower motor.

Edit: Looks like we all jumped at the same time.

[ 11-07-2005, 07:28 PM: Message edited by: kc8pql ]

[guillemot]

I was just daydreaming....
Guess that's why I didn't find anything on the web.
Thanks for the input.

j

[guillemot]

I was just daydreaming....
Guess that's why I didn't find anything on the web.
Thanks for the input.

j

[guillemot]

I was just daydreaming....
Guess that's why I didn't find anything on the web.
Thanks for the input.

j

[ssor]

One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.

[ssor]

One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.

[ssor]

One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.The same thing crossed my mind. Althought I will say that I see little point in most people buying router bits in sets because at least for me to get the individual bits I've needed as parts of sets I would have had to buy a lot of bits that I would never have used. The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.The same thing crossed my mind. Althought I will say that I see little point in most people buying router bits in sets because at least for me to get the individual bits I've needed as parts of sets I would have had to buy a lot of bits that I would never have used. The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.The same thing crossed my mind. Althought I will say that I see little point in most people buying router bits in sets because at least for me to get the individual bits I've needed as parts of sets I would have had to buy a lot of bits that I would never have used. The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Bruce Hooke:
The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.That's the way I've done it. I would amend sorr's comment to add that sooner or later you'll have 10 or 20 times the cost of the router in bits. By then though, you'll probably have four or five routers too
:D

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Bruce Hooke:
The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.That's the way I've done it. I would amend sorr's comment to add that sooner or later you'll have 10 or 20 times the cost of the router in bits. By then though, you'll probably have four or five routers too
:D

[kc8pql]

Originally posted by Bruce Hooke:
The good news is that this does justify buying bits one at a time as you need them which makes it a bit easier to absorb the cost.That's the way I've done it. I would amend sorr's comment to add that sooner or later you'll have 10 or 20 times the cost of the router in bits. By then though, you'll probably have four or five routers too
:D

[Paul Scheuer]

What are you thinking about routing ? Maybe there are some other ways to do it.

[Paul Scheuer]

What are you thinking about routing ? Maybe there are some other ways to do it.

[Paul Scheuer]

What are you thinking about routing ? Maybe there are some other ways to do it.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.A top-notch 1-3/4 hp variable-speed router, with enough oomph to do just about anything you might want to do with a router, as a kit with both a fixed and a plunge base can be had for US$ 175-225 (eg. Porter-Cable 890 series or Bosch 1617).

Good router bits will run you US$ 10-40 or more (CMT, Whiteside, Infinity) depending on size, profile, complexity, etc. It's a fair bet that by the time you acquire a rabbeting set, plus maybe another 10 bits of varying profiles and sizes, you'll have exceeded the cost of the router.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.A top-notch 1-3/4 hp variable-speed router, with enough oomph to do just about anything you might want to do with a router, as a kit with both a fixed and a plunge base can be had for US$ 175-225 (eg. Porter-Cable 890 series or Bosch 1617).

Good router bits will run you US$ 10-40 or more (CMT, Whiteside, Infinity) depending on size, profile, complexity, etc. It's a fair bet that by the time you acquire a rabbeting set, plus maybe another 10 bits of varying profiles and sizes, you'll have exceeded the cost of the router.

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by ssor:
One other thing to keep in mind, a router is like a Saint Bernard puppy; It costs a whole lot more to keep than to acquire. A good set of bits cost as much as a reasonably good router.A top-notch 1-3/4 hp variable-speed router, with enough oomph to do just about anything you might want to do with a router, as a kit with both a fixed and a plunge base can be had for US$ 175-225 (eg. Porter-Cable 890 series or Bosch 1617).

Good router bits will run you US$ 10-40 or more (CMT, Whiteside, Infinity) depending on size, profile, complexity, etc. It's a fair bet that by the time you acquire a rabbeting set, plus maybe another 10 bits of varying profiles and sizes, you'll have exceeded the cost of the router.

[Bruce Hooke]

It is worth keeping in mind that you can do a hell of a lot of routering (is that a word?) with a couple of straight bits, a flush trim bit or two and a two to three roundover bits. A lot depends on what you want to do. Raised panel type stuff can call for a veritable stable of big, expensive bits, whereas cutting joints and similar stuff can be often be done with a pretty small number of fairly inexpensive bits.

[Bruce Hooke]

It is worth keeping in mind that you can do a hell of a lot of routering (is that a word?) with a couple of straight bits, a flush trim bit or two and a two to three roundover bits. A lot depends on what you want to do. Raised panel type stuff can call for a veritable stable of big, expensive bits, whereas cutting joints and similar stuff can be often be done with a pretty small number of fairly inexpensive bits.

[Bruce Hooke]

It is worth keeping in mind that you can do a hell of a lot of routering (is that a word?) with a couple of straight bits, a flush trim bit or two and a two to three roundover bits. A lot depends on what you want to do. Raised panel type stuff can call for a veritable stable of big, expensive bits, whereas cutting joints and similar stuff can be often be done with a pretty small number of fairly inexpensive bits.

[Paul Girouard]

On bits, buy 1/2" shank for all but the smallest bits , much smoother cutting/ less chatter= better results , IMO.

Which BTW means a router that has 1/2 " shank collet. Most of which come with 1/4" collets , as well ,when new. Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-07-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

On bits, buy 1/2" shank for all but the smallest bits , much smoother cutting/ less chatter= better results , IMO.

Which BTW means a router that has 1/2 " shank collet. Most of which come with 1/4" collets , as well ,when new. Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-07-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

On bits, buy 1/2" shank for all but the smallest bits , much smoother cutting/ less chatter= better results , IMO.

Which BTW means a router that has 1/2 " shank collet. Most of which come with 1/4" collets , as well ,when new. Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-07-2005, 11:42 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[merlinron]

although a router is one tool that should be as high of quality as you can afford, budget restrictions sometimes make one wiegh reasonable quality against the amount of use.most users will never "use up" the quality in a top dollar router two life times at our rate of use( those who are amature/hobby wood workers, etc.)it is nice to have the "top quality" stuff, but sometimes not justified by time spent waiting while you save up. i was at the newly opened harbour freight tool outlet by me and noticed that thier line of hand held power tools("chicago tool") now carry a life time warranty. a 2 hp.-1/2" plunge router, with extended height adjustment screw( ideal for using in a router table) can be had for under 150 dollars.
i am not saying that they are as good as the top brands, rather, i think there is too much pressure from the "professionals" and such, on these forums to buy top brand stuff that the other guys get intimidated and waste time wishing rather than buying entry level where feasable and getting on with the process of enjoying building thier projects. most likely, the "entry level" tool will out last thier life and they don't have to be disgusted dreaming about ways to get around the high cost of tools they don't really "have to have" to complete thier projects. i personally handled on of these routers and aside from a stamped steel( although plenty heavy) locking lever, it ran smooth and was reasonably qiet despite it's low cost.

[merlinron]

although a router is one tool that should be as high of quality as you can afford, budget restrictions sometimes make one wiegh reasonable quality against the amount of use.most users will never "use up" the quality in a top dollar router two life times at our rate of use( those who are amature/hobby wood workers, etc.)it is nice to have the "top quality" stuff, but sometimes not justified by time spent waiting while you save up. i was at the newly opened harbour freight tool outlet by me and noticed that thier line of hand held power tools("chicago tool") now carry a life time warranty. a 2 hp.-1/2" plunge router, with extended height adjustment screw( ideal for using in a router table) can be had for under 150 dollars.
i am not saying that they are as good as the top brands, rather, i think there is too much pressure from the "professionals" and such, on these forums to buy top brand stuff that the other guys get intimidated and waste time wishing rather than buying entry level where feasable and getting on with the process of enjoying building thier projects. most likely, the "entry level" tool will out last thier life and they don't have to be disgusted dreaming about ways to get around the high cost of tools they don't really "have to have" to complete thier projects. i personally handled on of these routers and aside from a stamped steel( although plenty heavy) locking lever, it ran smooth and was reasonably qiet despite it's low cost.

[merlinron]

although a router is one tool that should be as high of quality as you can afford, budget restrictions sometimes make one wiegh reasonable quality against the amount of use.most users will never "use up" the quality in a top dollar router two life times at our rate of use( those who are amature/hobby wood workers, etc.)it is nice to have the "top quality" stuff, but sometimes not justified by time spent waiting while you save up. i was at the newly opened harbour freight tool outlet by me and noticed that thier line of hand held power tools("chicago tool") now carry a life time warranty. a 2 hp.-1/2" plunge router, with extended height adjustment screw( ideal for using in a router table) can be had for under 150 dollars.
i am not saying that they are as good as the top brands, rather, i think there is too much pressure from the "professionals" and such, on these forums to buy top brand stuff that the other guys get intimidated and waste time wishing rather than buying entry level where feasable and getting on with the process of enjoying building thier projects. most likely, the "entry level" tool will out last thier life and they don't have to be disgusted dreaming about ways to get around the high cost of tools they don't really "have to have" to complete thier projects. i personally handled on of these routers and aside from a stamped steel( although plenty heavy) locking lever, it ran smooth and was reasonably qiet despite it's low cost.

[guillemot]

Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid177/pbe0273c4da354189c0cd2f4a7e6ca846/f3523b51.jpg

A relative of a St. Bernard, more expensive to get, and with his laundry list of medical probs, way more expensive to keep (but I keep him! smile.gif ).

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture. I just acquired lumber from a local sawyer for a cedar lined chrry blanket chest, some foot stools, and some other little projects - about 200+ bf of mostly cherry with some walnut, eastern red cedar, and butternut mixed in.

I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Some of the measured drawings I've looked at show simple moulding that I'd have to make if I want to use cherry. I don't like the way that most routed dovetails look, so I'm planning to get good at doing those by hand for now.

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:07 AM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[guillemot]

Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid177/pbe0273c4da354189c0cd2f4a7e6ca846/f3523b51.jpg

A relative of a St. Bernard, more expensive to get, and with his laundry list of medical probs, way more expensive to keep (but I keep him! smile.gif ).

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture. I just acquired lumber from a local sawyer for a cedar lined chrry blanket chest, some foot stools, and some other little projects - about 200+ bf of mostly cherry with some walnut, eastern red cedar, and butternut mixed in.

I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Some of the measured drawings I've looked at show simple moulding that I'd have to make if I want to use cherry. I don't like the way that most routed dovetails look, so I'm planning to get good at doing those by hand for now.

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:07 AM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[guillemot]

Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid177/pbe0273c4da354189c0cd2f4a7e6ca846/f3523b51.jpg

A relative of a St. Bernard, more expensive to get, and with his laundry list of medical probs, way more expensive to keep (but I keep him! smile.gif ).

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture. I just acquired lumber from a local sawyer for a cedar lined chrry blanket chest, some foot stools, and some other little projects - about 200+ bf of mostly cherry with some walnut, eastern red cedar, and butternut mixed in.

I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Some of the measured drawings I've looked at show simple moulding that I'd have to make if I want to use cherry. I don't like the way that most routed dovetails look, so I'm planning to get good at doing those by hand for now.

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:07 AM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[Bruce Hooke]

On bits, my theory is if I need a particular bit then I buy it, rather than speculating on which bits to buy in advance of my need. This does sometimes mean that I have to either wait for the bit to show up, if I mail order, or pay a bit more and buy locally, but to me that is better than buying bits I might never use.

That said, the basic bits that I tend to use most are roundover bits, a spiral cut straight bit, and two flush-trim bits, one with an end-mounted bearing and one with a top-mounted bearing. However, I do not do much raised panel work. Research that area carefully because raised panel work with a router tends to mean pushing the router to the limits of its capability.

Many of my bits came from Woodworkers Supply (http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/home.exe) . Their Woodtek line has a lot of profiles and the bits are decent quality but also reasonably priced. HOWEVER, for more demanding uses like cutting fancy profiles in cherry where it would be hard to clean up things like burn marks afterwards I would consider buying higher quality bits. IIRC Fine Woodworking ran a review of router bits a few years back.

My router table is the side extension table on my tablesaw, which is a great solution in my opinion, if you have a big cabinet saw with a big side extenstion table, but that is a big "if". If you do not then I would seriously consider building your own table. A nice big working surface is really nice, and most commercial router tables skimp in this department. BUT, it is important that the top be dead flat. The fence need not be fancy as long as the face is perpendicular to the table surface. Unlike a tablesaw fence it does not need to stay parallel with anything so the adjustment mechanism can simply be a couple of C-clamps (I don't use quick-release clamps around machinery because they sometimes vibrate loose).

I have occassionaly thought that it would be nice to have a "crosscut" fence that worked with my router, but that has been relatively rare, and when I have wished for that capability, its been in situations where the dinky little 5" wide crosscut fence sold with most router tables would have been useless.

Edited to add: Request a paper catalog from Woodworkers Supply. Their website is not very user friendly, especially when you are trying to browse through things like router bits.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

On bits, my theory is if I need a particular bit then I buy it, rather than speculating on which bits to buy in advance of my need. This does sometimes mean that I have to either wait for the bit to show up, if I mail order, or pay a bit more and buy locally, but to me that is better than buying bits I might never use.

That said, the basic bits that I tend to use most are roundover bits, a spiral cut straight bit, and two flush-trim bits, one with an end-mounted bearing and one with a top-mounted bearing. However, I do not do much raised panel work. Research that area carefully because raised panel work with a router tends to mean pushing the router to the limits of its capability.

Many of my bits came from Woodworkers Supply (http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/home.exe) . Their Woodtek line has a lot of profiles and the bits are decent quality but also reasonably priced. HOWEVER, for more demanding uses like cutting fancy profiles in cherry where it would be hard to clean up things like burn marks afterwards I would consider buying higher quality bits. IIRC Fine Woodworking ran a review of router bits a few years back.

My router table is the side extension table on my tablesaw, which is a great solution in my opinion, if you have a big cabinet saw with a big side extenstion table, but that is a big "if". If you do not then I would seriously consider building your own table. A nice big working surface is really nice, and most commercial router tables skimp in this department. BUT, it is important that the top be dead flat. The fence need not be fancy as long as the face is perpendicular to the table surface. Unlike a tablesaw fence it does not need to stay parallel with anything so the adjustment mechanism can simply be a couple of C-clamps (I don't use quick-release clamps around machinery because they sometimes vibrate loose).

I have occassionaly thought that it would be nice to have a "crosscut" fence that worked with my router, but that has been relatively rare, and when I have wished for that capability, its been in situations where the dinky little 5" wide crosscut fence sold with most router tables would have been useless.

Edited to add: Request a paper catalog from Woodworkers Supply. Their website is not very user friendly, especially when you are trying to browse through things like router bits.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

On bits, my theory is if I need a particular bit then I buy it, rather than speculating on which bits to buy in advance of my need. This does sometimes mean that I have to either wait for the bit to show up, if I mail order, or pay a bit more and buy locally, but to me that is better than buying bits I might never use.

That said, the basic bits that I tend to use most are roundover bits, a spiral cut straight bit, and two flush-trim bits, one with an end-mounted bearing and one with a top-mounted bearing. However, I do not do much raised panel work. Research that area carefully because raised panel work with a router tends to mean pushing the router to the limits of its capability.

Many of my bits came from Woodworkers Supply (http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/home.exe) . Their Woodtek line has a lot of profiles and the bits are decent quality but also reasonably priced. HOWEVER, for more demanding uses like cutting fancy profiles in cherry where it would be hard to clean up things like burn marks afterwards I would consider buying higher quality bits. IIRC Fine Woodworking ran a review of router bits a few years back.

My router table is the side extension table on my tablesaw, which is a great solution in my opinion, if you have a big cabinet saw with a big side extenstion table, but that is a big "if". If you do not then I would seriously consider building your own table. A nice big working surface is really nice, and most commercial router tables skimp in this department. BUT, it is important that the top be dead flat. The fence need not be fancy as long as the face is perpendicular to the table surface. Unlike a tablesaw fence it does not need to stay parallel with anything so the adjustment mechanism can simply be a couple of C-clamps (I don't use quick-release clamps around machinery because they sometimes vibrate loose).

I have occassionaly thought that it would be nice to have a "crosscut" fence that worked with my router, but that has been relatively rare, and when I have wished for that capability, its been in situations where the dinky little 5" wide crosscut fence sold with most router tables would have been useless.

Edited to add: Request a paper catalog from Woodworkers Supply. Their website is not very user friendly, especially when you are trying to browse through things like router bits.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:51 AM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Ken Hutchins]

Another thing about routers which would be impossible to do with a home made rig is balance. The motor/spindle combination MUST be dynamically balanced to run at the router speeds.
When shopping for router bits, take along your favorite magnifying glass, I like at least 20x. Examine the ground surfaces on the carbide, first for cracks, and also for indications of heat when the tool was ground. The heat indications are colors, similar to heat discoloration from grinding steel. The heat indications will be accompanied by microscopic cracks that will grow into bigger cracks and cause flaking of the carbide along the cutting edges, hence a rapid dulling of the tool. Tools with heat indications will show horrifying cracks when examined under a microscope at 200x, these tools look quite normal to the naked eye. I have examined 1000's of cutting tools and somewhere in my archives I have some photos from the microscope, I'll post them if I can find them.
The heat indications are caused by several possible causes when the tool was ground, keep in mind that these tools have all surfaces of the carbide are ground in less than a minute for most common bits, the grinding is done on CNC equipment. Lack of coolant when grinding, a dull grinding wheel, improper speeds and feeds in the machine program or the machine operator not running the machine according to the programmed speeds and feeds are some of the causes.

[Ken Hutchins]

Another thing about routers which would be impossible to do with a home made rig is balance. The motor/spindle combination MUST be dynamically balanced to run at the router speeds.
When shopping for router bits, take along your favorite magnifying glass, I like at least 20x. Examine the ground surfaces on the carbide, first for cracks, and also for indications of heat when the tool was ground. The heat indications are colors, similar to heat discoloration from grinding steel. The heat indications will be accompanied by microscopic cracks that will grow into bigger cracks and cause flaking of the carbide along the cutting edges, hence a rapid dulling of the tool. Tools with heat indications will show horrifying cracks when examined under a microscope at 200x, these tools look quite normal to the naked eye. I have examined 1000's of cutting tools and somewhere in my archives I have some photos from the microscope, I'll post them if I can find them.
The heat indications are caused by several possible causes when the tool was ground, keep in mind that these tools have all surfaces of the carbide are ground in less than a minute for most common bits, the grinding is done on CNC equipment. Lack of coolant when grinding, a dull grinding wheel, improper speeds and feeds in the machine program or the machine operator not running the machine according to the programmed speeds and feeds are some of the causes.

[Ken Hutchins]

Another thing about routers which would be impossible to do with a home made rig is balance. The motor/spindle combination MUST be dynamically balanced to run at the router speeds.
When shopping for router bits, take along your favorite magnifying glass, I like at least 20x. Examine the ground surfaces on the carbide, first for cracks, and also for indications of heat when the tool was ground. The heat indications are colors, similar to heat discoloration from grinding steel. The heat indications will be accompanied by microscopic cracks that will grow into bigger cracks and cause flaking of the carbide along the cutting edges, hence a rapid dulling of the tool. Tools with heat indications will show horrifying cracks when examined under a microscope at 200x, these tools look quite normal to the naked eye. I have examined 1000's of cutting tools and somewhere in my archives I have some photos from the microscope, I'll post them if I can find them.
The heat indications are caused by several possible causes when the tool was ground, keep in mind that these tools have all surfaces of the carbide are ground in less than a minute for most common bits, the grinding is done on CNC equipment. Lack of coolant when grinding, a dull grinding wheel, improper speeds and feeds in the machine program or the machine operator not running the machine according to the programmed speeds and feeds are some of the causes.

[JakePorter]

I took a different approach with my router bits... A couple of years back, I stopped by a woodworking show when it came to town and bought myself a 30 peice 1/2" carbide router bit set for US$59 (can get them online/mail order also). Out of the box they cut great, no burning, etc. I knew in advance that a $2 router bit won't hold up like a $40 bit, but that's fine with me. 95% of the time, I reach for a staight, flush, or round over bit; They will be the first to go. When they start burning wood or bearings seize up, I'll replace that bit with a good one. In the mean time, I've got all the odd once-a-year-use bits that will last me forever and I don't have to spend more $ for a single project. A cheap way to get started.

To my surprise, I haven't had to replace any yet, but the flush cut is due. As an ameture who only gets a few hours a week to work in the shop, it was the most cost effective route (no pun intneded...) Sounds like you may have similar circumstances.

Jake

[JakePorter]

I took a different approach with my router bits... A couple of years back, I stopped by a woodworking show when it came to town and bought myself a 30 peice 1/2" carbide router bit set for US$59 (can get them online/mail order also). Out of the box they cut great, no burning, etc. I knew in advance that a $2 router bit won't hold up like a $40 bit, but that's fine with me. 95% of the time, I reach for a staight, flush, or round over bit; They will be the first to go. When they start burning wood or bearings seize up, I'll replace that bit with a good one. In the mean time, I've got all the odd once-a-year-use bits that will last me forever and I don't have to spend more $ for a single project. A cheap way to get started.

To my surprise, I haven't had to replace any yet, but the flush cut is due. As an ameture who only gets a few hours a week to work in the shop, it was the most cost effective route (no pun intneded...) Sounds like you may have similar circumstances.

Jake

[JakePorter]

I took a different approach with my router bits... A couple of years back, I stopped by a woodworking show when it came to town and bought myself a 30 peice 1/2" carbide router bit set for US$59 (can get them online/mail order also). Out of the box they cut great, no burning, etc. I knew in advance that a $2 router bit won't hold up like a $40 bit, but that's fine with me. 95% of the time, I reach for a staight, flush, or round over bit; They will be the first to go. When they start burning wood or bearings seize up, I'll replace that bit with a good one. In the mean time, I've got all the odd once-a-year-use bits that will last me forever and I don't have to spend more $ for a single project. A cheap way to get started.

To my surprise, I haven't had to replace any yet, but the flush cut is due. As an ameture who only gets a few hours a week to work in the shop, it was the most cost effective route (no pun intneded...) Sounds like you may have similar circumstances.

Jake

[merlinron]

jake i have such a set also(1/4" set for my small router). and although the carbide is not as good in them as a good high dollar bit, even the most commonly used profiles as mentioned, have lasted years. the carbide is thick enough to get a sharpening or two out of them as well. with the bigger bits, panel raisers, and so on,it is better to spend the money on and get good stuff. another consideration is router speeds. allot of the problems with burning as bit gets older is from using too high a cutter speed on hard woods. a variable speed router and learning what speed to run at will extend bit life considerably.

[merlinron]

jake i have such a set also(1/4" set for my small router). and although the carbide is not as good in them as a good high dollar bit, even the most commonly used profiles as mentioned, have lasted years. the carbide is thick enough to get a sharpening or two out of them as well. with the bigger bits, panel raisers, and so on,it is better to spend the money on and get good stuff. another consideration is router speeds. allot of the problems with burning as bit gets older is from using too high a cutter speed on hard woods. a variable speed router and learning what speed to run at will extend bit life considerably.

[merlinron]

jake i have such a set also(1/4" set for my small router). and although the carbide is not as good in them as a good high dollar bit, even the most commonly used profiles as mentioned, have lasted years. the carbide is thick enough to get a sharpening or two out of them as well. with the bigger bits, panel raisers, and so on,it is better to spend the money on and get good stuff. another consideration is router speeds. allot of the problems with burning as bit gets older is from using too high a cutter speed on hard woods. a variable speed router and learning what speed to run at will extend bit life considerably.

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture.
I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.I might not be the right guys ask , I like all my routers :D

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/routers.jpg

Starting from the left to the right would be how'd I'd start if they got stolen , a good quality 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hp that can do both 1/2 and 1/4 collet bits , PITA for running a 1/8 rad bit but if you can only have one you can make it work . The one on the far right was my first router , I ran it for a while as a router table using my tablesaw fence and table as Bruce said it can work , I think your Dewalt table saw will take a router won't it ? If I remember right you had the re-fixed Dewalt table saw thread , could be some one else.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/th_routertable.jpg

This worked for a while , but I sort of got away from using it and don't think I need a router table , never had one in the cab shops I worked in so , for me I'd not give up the space one requires. And I sort of have one I don't use :rolleyes:

I liked Bruce's list and would only add one other a "Classical bit " You can get e few different details by varing the depth of cut.

I get almost all my bits from Grizzly their standard type (the green ones ) not the up grade type .

I raise all my raised panels using my table saw and a high fence that drops over the Biesemeyer fence it's about a foot or so high and steadies the panel as you feed it , I don't have a R/P bit for my router. All the R/Pnls on the stuff I posted on the "what did you build thread" were Raised that way.

I can post a pic of it if you'd like to see it .

Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:05 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture.
I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.I might not be the right guys ask , I like all my routers :D

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/routers.jpg

Starting from the left to the right would be how'd I'd start if they got stolen , a good quality 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hp that can do both 1/2 and 1/4 collet bits , PITA for running a 1/8 rad bit but if you can only have one you can make it work . The one on the far right was my first router , I ran it for a while as a router table using my tablesaw fence and table as Bruce said it can work , I think your Dewalt table saw will take a router won't it ? If I remember right you had the re-fixed Dewalt table saw thread , could be some one else.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/th_routertable.jpg

This worked for a while , but I sort of got away from using it and don't think I need a router table , never had one in the cab shops I worked in so , for me I'd not give up the space one requires. And I sort of have one I don't use :rolleyes:

I liked Bruce's list and would only add one other a "Classical bit " You can get e few different details by varing the depth of cut.

I get almost all my bits from Grizzly their standard type (the green ones ) not the up grade type .

I raise all my raised panels using my table saw and a high fence that drops over the Biesemeyer fence it's about a foot or so high and steadies the panel as you feed it , I don't have a R/P bit for my router. All the R/Pnls on the stuff I posted on the "what did you build thread" were Raised that way.

I can post a pic of it if you'd like to see it .

Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:05 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
Thanks everyone for your valuable input. I don't take your suggestions lightly. ssor, I can relate to your analogy:

Paul - I'm beginning to take an interest in building furniture. I just relieved the Michigan State University Library of its entire collection on Shaker furniture.
I'd like to be able to make raised panel and flat panel doors as well as mortise and tennon joints. Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.I might not be the right guys ask , I like all my routers :D

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/routers.jpg

Starting from the left to the right would be how'd I'd start if they got stolen , a good quality 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hp that can do both 1/2 and 1/4 collet bits , PITA for running a 1/8 rad bit but if you can only have one you can make it work . The one on the far right was my first router , I ran it for a while as a router table using my tablesaw fence and table as Bruce said it can work , I think your Dewalt table saw will take a router won't it ? If I remember right you had the re-fixed Dewalt table saw thread , could be some one else.

http://photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/th_routertable.jpg

This worked for a while , but I sort of got away from using it and don't think I need a router table , never had one in the cab shops I worked in so , for me I'd not give up the space one requires. And I sort of have one I don't use :rolleyes:

I liked Bruce's list and would only add one other a "Classical bit " You can get e few different details by varing the depth of cut.

I get almost all my bits from Grizzly their standard type (the green ones ) not the up grade type .

I raise all my raised panels using my table saw and a high fence that drops over the Biesemeyer fence it's about a foot or so high and steadies the panel as you feed it , I don't have a R/P bit for my router. All the R/Pnls on the stuff I posted on the "what did you build thread" were Raised that way.

I can post a pic of it if you'd like to see it .

Good luck , Paul.

[ 11-08-2005, 09:05 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Ron Williamson]

If Shaker furniture is your plan,you probably don't need a router at all.
Like Paul said,practically everything,including raised panels,can be done with a tablesaw and the right jigs,or by hand.

I have a coupla router tables,but the easy one is a 1'x2'piece of ply with a 2x4 'joist' screwed to the bottom,so that I can clamp it into the bench vise,or place it over top of the trash barrel.
R

[ 11-09-2005, 06:24 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

If Shaker furniture is your plan,you probably don't need a router at all.
Like Paul said,practically everything,including raised panels,can be done with a tablesaw and the right jigs,or by hand.

I have a coupla router tables,but the easy one is a 1'x2'piece of ply with a 2x4 'joist' screwed to the bottom,so that I can clamp it into the bench vise,or place it over top of the trash barrel.
R

[ 11-09-2005, 06:24 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

If Shaker furniture is your plan,you probably don't need a router at all.
Like Paul said,practically everything,including raised panels,can be done with a tablesaw and the right jigs,or by hand.

I have a coupla router tables,but the easy one is a 1'x2'piece of ply with a 2x4 'joist' screwed to the bottom,so that I can clamp it into the bench vise,or place it over top of the trash barrel.
R

[ 11-09-2005, 06:24 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[igatenby]

Don't know if they sell Triton gear in the US - but here is there router table.

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/rt/oval4.jpg

[igatenby]

Don't know if they sell Triton gear in the US - but here is there router table.

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/rt/oval4.jpg

[igatenby]

Don't know if they sell Triton gear in the US - but here is there router table.

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/rt/oval4.jpg

[David W Pratt]

Try pawn shops for a used one.
Good luck.

[David W Pratt]

Try pawn shops for a used one.
Good luck.

[David W Pratt]

Try pawn shops for a used one.
Good luck.

[Mrleft8]

RE: mortises. Your blower motor will make a fine horizontal mortiser. Use 4 flute end mills instead of router bits. Yes it might take a little longer, but the results will be better.
A tablesaw can cut raised panels, but it's pretty scary (to me anyway). You really want a shaper for raised panels. OR.... You could do all these things the way the Shakers did....By hand.

[Mrleft8]

RE: mortises. Your blower motor will make a fine horizontal mortiser. Use 4 flute end mills instead of router bits. Yes it might take a little longer, but the results will be better.
A tablesaw can cut raised panels, but it's pretty scary (to me anyway). You really want a shaper for raised panels. OR.... You could do all these things the way the Shakers did....By hand.

[Mrleft8]

RE: mortises. Your blower motor will make a fine horizontal mortiser. Use 4 flute end mills instead of router bits. Yes it might take a little longer, but the results will be better.
A tablesaw can cut raised panels, but it's pretty scary (to me anyway). You really want a shaper for raised panels. OR.... You could do all these things the way the Shakers did....By hand.

[guillemot]

Mrleft8 - can you explain the details of the mortiser to me? How would I make it?

[guillemot]

Mrleft8 - can you explain the details of the mortiser to me? How would I make it?

[guillemot]

Mrleft8 - can you explain the details of the mortiser to me? How would I make it?

[Bruce Hooke]

A horizontal mortiser is basically a fixed rotating bit sticking out horizontally from a fence with a table in front on which the stock sits and moves. Adjustable stops set the range of motion for the stock and thus the size of the mortise hole. The table and fence, or the motor, also need to be adjustable in position to set the height of the bit above the table and the depth of cut.

Horizontal mortisers are great for cutting mortises for floating tenon jointery...

[Bruce Hooke]

A horizontal mortiser is basically a fixed rotating bit sticking out horizontally from a fence with a table in front on which the stock sits and moves. Adjustable stops set the range of motion for the stock and thus the size of the mortise hole. The table and fence, or the motor, also need to be adjustable in position to set the height of the bit above the table and the depth of cut.

Horizontal mortisers are great for cutting mortises for floating tenon jointery...

[Bruce Hooke]

A horizontal mortiser is basically a fixed rotating bit sticking out horizontally from a fence with a table in front on which the stock sits and moves. Adjustable stops set the range of motion for the stock and thus the size of the mortise hole. The table and fence, or the motor, also need to be adjustable in position to set the height of the bit above the table and the depth of cut.

Horizontal mortisers are great for cutting mortises for floating tenon jointery...

[Wild Dingo]

Ian you beat me to it... Triton router bloody brilliant! 1/4in and 1/2in collets smooth as silk start up beautiful balance... expensive but brilliant and definantly worth every centablo :cool:

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/router/railing.jpg

oh and meant to add but forgot... designed to be used either by hand as in the pic or in the table the collet lifts above the table to change the bit! Brilliant thing!

[ 11-10-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[Wild Dingo]

Ian you beat me to it... Triton router bloody brilliant! 1/4in and 1/2in collets smooth as silk start up beautiful balance... expensive but brilliant and definantly worth every centablo :cool:

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/router/railing.jpg

oh and meant to add but forgot... designed to be used either by hand as in the pic or in the table the collet lifts above the table to change the bit! Brilliant thing!

[ 11-10-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[Wild Dingo]

Ian you beat me to it... Triton router bloody brilliant! 1/4in and 1/2in collets smooth as silk start up beautiful balance... expensive but brilliant and definantly worth every centablo :cool:

http://www.triton.com.au/products/images/router/railing.jpg

oh and meant to add but forgot... designed to be used either by hand as in the pic or in the table the collet lifts above the table to change the bit! Brilliant thing!

[ 11-10-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Wild Dingo ]

[merlinron]

one word of caution about using a fan motor for a mortise bore. if you are planning to run the bit off the end of the motor's shaft, the most of the fan motors aren't bushed or bearinged for thrust very well. best to run a shaft with good pillow blocks or an arbour. for dia. small boring you can get away with doubling the motor's speed(via arbour) and not get too much vibration by keeping the pullies as small as posible, the belt as short as posible, and using precision machined pullies instead of the more common cast alloy one's you see at most hardware stores. i once built a shaper of sorts set up for one purpose, raising panels, by doing this way. i think i went to 300% over speed on the arbour with a 1-1/2 horse motor. it actually worked pretty good as long as i took small cuts and didn't get too big with the cutter diameter. this was before i knew of the "in line" type of panel raising bits now offered by most router bit suppliers. i would think that my old "shaper" would have worked pretty nice with those bits and little rework of the fence.
bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table. i built my router table to have a sliding table that interchanges with my table saw. it's quite a nice set up to have one on both machines. i wish i could post pics, but no digital camera or scanner on this pc.if someone is interested, i could take some snapshots and make a few simple drawings to send in the mail.
editted for typo

[ 11-10-2005, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[merlinron]

one word of caution about using a fan motor for a mortise bore. if you are planning to run the bit off the end of the motor's shaft, the most of the fan motors aren't bushed or bearinged for thrust very well. best to run a shaft with good pillow blocks or an arbour. for dia. small boring you can get away with doubling the motor's speed(via arbour) and not get too much vibration by keeping the pullies as small as posible, the belt as short as posible, and using precision machined pullies instead of the more common cast alloy one's you see at most hardware stores. i once built a shaper of sorts set up for one purpose, raising panels, by doing this way. i think i went to 300% over speed on the arbour with a 1-1/2 horse motor. it actually worked pretty good as long as i took small cuts and didn't get too big with the cutter diameter. this was before i knew of the "in line" type of panel raising bits now offered by most router bit suppliers. i would think that my old "shaper" would have worked pretty nice with those bits and little rework of the fence.
bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table. i built my router table to have a sliding table that interchanges with my table saw. it's quite a nice set up to have one on both machines. i wish i could post pics, but no digital camera or scanner on this pc.if someone is interested, i could take some snapshots and make a few simple drawings to send in the mail.
editted for typo

[ 11-10-2005, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[merlinron]

one word of caution about using a fan motor for a mortise bore. if you are planning to run the bit off the end of the motor's shaft, the most of the fan motors aren't bushed or bearinged for thrust very well. best to run a shaft with good pillow blocks or an arbour. for dia. small boring you can get away with doubling the motor's speed(via arbour) and not get too much vibration by keeping the pullies as small as posible, the belt as short as posible, and using precision machined pullies instead of the more common cast alloy one's you see at most hardware stores. i once built a shaper of sorts set up for one purpose, raising panels, by doing this way. i think i went to 300% over speed on the arbour with a 1-1/2 horse motor. it actually worked pretty good as long as i took small cuts and didn't get too big with the cutter diameter. this was before i knew of the "in line" type of panel raising bits now offered by most router bit suppliers. i would think that my old "shaper" would have worked pretty nice with those bits and little rework of the fence.
bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table. i built my router table to have a sliding table that interchanges with my table saw. it's quite a nice set up to have one on both machines. i wish i could post pics, but no digital camera or scanner on this pc.if someone is interested, i could take some snapshots and make a few simple drawings to send in the mail.
editted for typo

[ 11-10-2005, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: merlinron ]

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by merlinron:
Bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table.I realize that, and I have considering doing something along the lines of what it sounds like you did. Maybe I will at some point. My argument, however, was that at least for what I do the little toy-sized miter fences that come with most router tables would not be of much use.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by merlinron:
Bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table.I realize that, and I have considering doing something along the lines of what it sounds like you did. Maybe I will at some point. My argument, however, was that at least for what I do the little toy-sized miter fences that come with most router tables would not be of much use.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by merlinron:
Bruce, a miter fence is a handy thing to have on a router table.I realize that, and I have considering doing something along the lines of what it sounds like you did. Maybe I will at some point. My argument, however, was that at least for what I do the little toy-sized miter fences that come with most router tables would not be of much use.

[kc8pql]

Just one little word of caution about building your own horz. slot morticer. You need a good X - Y axis table and a good clamping arrangement. This is important. For the last 28 years, one of my fingers has been 1/2" shorter than it was designed to be because I didn't think it was.

[kc8pql]

Just one little word of caution about building your own horz. slot morticer. You need a good X - Y axis table and a good clamping arrangement. This is important. For the last 28 years, one of my fingers has been 1/2" shorter than it was designed to be because I didn't think it was.

[kc8pql]

Just one little word of caution about building your own horz. slot morticer. You need a good X - Y axis table and a good clamping arrangement. This is important. For the last 28 years, one of my fingers has been 1/2" shorter than it was designed to be because I didn't think it was.

[merlinron]

yup, those little plastic guys are sure cute :rolleyes: :D . makes you wonder why they even bothered making one. a router table is something fairly easy to make and usually better than you can buy.

[merlinron]

yup, those little plastic guys are sure cute :rolleyes: :D . makes you wonder why they even bothered making one. a router table is something fairly easy to make and usually better than you can buy.

[merlinron]

yup, those little plastic guys are sure cute :rolleyes: :D . makes you wonder why they even bothered making one. a router table is something fairly easy to make and usually better than you can buy.

[Ron Williamson]

kc8pql is right about the travel system and clamping.
Our real slot mortiser is scary enough, if you are just a bit lazy, when you clamp.
R

[Ron Williamson]

kc8pql is right about the travel system and clamping.
Our real slot mortiser is scary enough, if you are just a bit lazy, when you clamp.
R

[Ron Williamson]

kc8pql is right about the travel system and clamping.
Our real slot mortiser is scary enough, if you are just a bit lazy, when you clamp.
R

[Meerkat]

Somebody ought to drag Dave Fleming into this thread: he's "Mr. Router/Routing Table" around here AFAIK! smile.gif

[Meerkat]

Somebody ought to drag Dave Fleming into this thread: he's "Mr. Router/Routing Table" around here AFAIK! smile.gif

[Meerkat]

Somebody ought to drag Dave Fleming into this thread: he's "Mr. Router/Routing Table" around here AFAIK! smile.gif

[Mrleft8]

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

[Mrleft8]

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

[Mrleft8]

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

[guillemot]

We have now exceeded the limits of my technical vocabulary. Flutes? Pillow blocks? I have made mortices two ways - first with a set of sharp chisels, and second in a vocational school's woodshop on their foot-pedal controled morticer. I never did learn the names of the various bit-types, though.

The basic idea of what you all are describing is a belt driven, horizontally mounted mortising bit with a table to clamp the work to that is moveable in two planes, and presumably there'd be some kind of vertical adjustment as well, right? mrleft8 - if you do have photos I'd love to see them just to get a visual of the device.

I currently enjoy the full use of all ten digits, and I'd like to stay that way. I'd like to hear the specific safety objections to this device that folks have voiced, whatever it is.

[guillemot]

We have now exceeded the limits of my technical vocabulary. Flutes? Pillow blocks? I have made mortices two ways - first with a set of sharp chisels, and second in a vocational school's woodshop on their foot-pedal controled morticer. I never did learn the names of the various bit-types, though.

The basic idea of what you all are describing is a belt driven, horizontally mounted mortising bit with a table to clamp the work to that is moveable in two planes, and presumably there'd be some kind of vertical adjustment as well, right? mrleft8 - if you do have photos I'd love to see them just to get a visual of the device.

I currently enjoy the full use of all ten digits, and I'd like to stay that way. I'd like to hear the specific safety objections to this device that folks have voiced, whatever it is.

[guillemot]

We have now exceeded the limits of my technical vocabulary. Flutes? Pillow blocks? I have made mortices two ways - first with a set of sharp chisels, and second in a vocational school's woodshop on their foot-pedal controled morticer. I never did learn the names of the various bit-types, though.

The basic idea of what you all are describing is a belt driven, horizontally mounted mortising bit with a table to clamp the work to that is moveable in two planes, and presumably there'd be some kind of vertical adjustment as well, right? mrleft8 - if you do have photos I'd love to see them just to get a visual of the device.

I currently enjoy the full use of all ten digits, and I'd like to stay that way. I'd like to hear the specific safety objections to this device that folks have voiced, whatever it is.

[Paul Girouard]

Poor Jeff he asks about routers, Jeff's below post

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

And we end up here :eek:

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

There aways another way to do it thats for sure. A nice 2 1/4 hp router that will take 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits would be the basic answer.
Ya got any pictures of that rig Lefty?

Have a great day heading out to the shop right now smile.gif Paul

[Paul Girouard]

Poor Jeff he asks about routers, Jeff's below post

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

And we end up here :eek:

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

There aways another way to do it thats for sure. A nice 2 1/4 hp router that will take 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits would be the basic answer.
Ya got any pictures of that rig Lefty?

Have a great day heading out to the shop right now smile.gif Paul

[Paul Girouard]

Poor Jeff he asks about routers, Jeff's below post

Assuming I get a router (some day), what are the first five or so bits you'd have me buy? Are there brands to avoid? Suggestions for a router table? And would I want fixed or plunge - I don't even really know what the differences are.

And we end up here :eek:

The chuck should be on an arbor set in pillow blocks, not directly mounted to the motor shaft. The X Y axis table thing is nice, but the mortiser I learned on had a fixed table, and the stock was moved by hand across the table. Using a 4 flute cutter instead of a 2 flute cutter makes it slower, but safer. I saw one that a guy in the woodworking program at the College of the Redwoods made that had an angled table.... Basically it was a board on a hinge, with a threaded rod on the other end of the board for height adjustment. It worked, but I would be more inclined to use the old double wedge type of height adjuster. I'll see if I can dig up the plans I have (had) somewhere.... All this said, you're not going to save any money here... Pillow blocks, arbor, chuck, pulleys, belt, threaded rod etc.... But a nice tool to have.

There aways another way to do it thats for sure. A nice 2 1/4 hp router that will take 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits would be the basic answer.
Ya got any pictures of that rig Lefty?

Have a great day heading out to the shop right now smile.gif Paul

[Dave Fleming]

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/118627656.jpg

The latest in a long line of router/mortiser machines.

First one of that type I can recall was the ACME spline mortiser in the 1960's. Used a Stanley router to cut mortises. You made a slip fit tenon out of stock. Now someone has developed what I believe ( could be wrong here ) is called the 'beadlock' cutter to do pretty much the same thing.

Personally I would stop trying to re-invent the wheel here. A router or shaper is an intensive bit of engineering and machinist work as Ken has commented. With todays prices of good quality routers I cannot see the need to make something that would cost more in parts and material than buying one off the shelf.

Shop around check the web sites of online sellers including amazon, hit the swap meets ( just make sure you can fire up the machine right there ), pawn shops, classifieds, local for sale sheets,ect..

Pat Warner has a web site which does a pretty good job of showing the various router types along with his recommendation for what type to use where. Pat is a friend and he is like me ;) ,
very opinionated with a good dose of objectivity.

Pat's Web Site (http://www.patwarner.com/)

[Dave Fleming]

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/118627656.jpg

The latest in a long line of router/mortiser machines.

First one of that type I can recall was the ACME spline mortiser in the 1960's. Used a Stanley router to cut mortises. You made a slip fit tenon out of stock. Now someone has developed what I believe ( could be wrong here ) is called the 'beadlock' cutter to do pretty much the same thing.

Personally I would stop trying to re-invent the wheel here. A router or shaper is an intensive bit of engineering and machinist work as Ken has commented. With todays prices of good quality routers I cannot see the need to make something that would cost more in parts and material than buying one off the shelf.

Shop around check the web sites of online sellers including amazon, hit the swap meets ( just make sure you can fire up the machine right there ), pawn shops, classifieds, local for sale sheets,ect..

Pat Warner has a web site which does a pretty good job of showing the various router types along with his recommendation for what type to use where. Pat is a friend and he is like me ;) ,
very opinionated with a good dose of objectivity.

Pat's Web Site (http://www.patwarner.com/)

[Dave Fleming]

http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL780/3097474/6292566/118627656.jpg

The latest in a long line of router/mortiser machines.

First one of that type I can recall was the ACME spline mortiser in the 1960's. Used a Stanley router to cut mortises. You made a slip fit tenon out of stock. Now someone has developed what I believe ( could be wrong here ) is called the 'beadlock' cutter to do pretty much the same thing.

Personally I would stop trying to re-invent the wheel here. A router or shaper is an intensive bit of engineering and machinist work as Ken has commented. With todays prices of good quality routers I cannot see the need to make something that would cost more in parts and material than buying one off the shelf.

Shop around check the web sites of online sellers including amazon, hit the swap meets ( just make sure you can fire up the machine right there ), pawn shops, classifieds, local for sale sheets,ect..

Pat Warner has a web site which does a pretty good job of showing the various router types along with his recommendation for what type to use where. Pat is a friend and he is like me ;) ,
very opinionated with a good dose of objectivity.

Pat's Web Site (http://www.patwarner.com/)

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year.
JeffHow about a home made one of these?

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000302XS.01._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

A air cleaner for the shop , as I've been out sanding on some tables and a couple of cedar handrails , I thought gee Jeff might could use some thing so he'd be breathing less dust than I am.

I should look for a old motor and make one up as well, will I , doubtful.

Back to the dust plant / shop.

[ 11-13-2005, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year.
JeffHow about a home made one of these?

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000302XS.01._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

A air cleaner for the shop , as I've been out sanding on some tables and a couple of cedar handrails , I thought gee Jeff might could use some thing so he'd be breathing less dust than I am.

I should look for a old motor and make one up as well, will I , doubtful.

Back to the dust plant / shop.

[ 11-13-2005, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Originally posted by guillemot:
I have a motor available from the blower of the old furnace that we replaced last year.
JeffHow about a home made one of these?

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000302XS.01._SCMZZZZZZZ_.jpg

A air cleaner for the shop , as I've been out sanding on some tables and a couple of cedar handrails , I thought gee Jeff might could use some thing so he'd be breathing less dust than I am.

I should look for a old motor and make one up as well, will I , doubtful.

Back to the dust plant / shop.

[ 11-13-2005, 03:58 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[guillemot]

holy crap! Paul, you're right. We started with a yes/no question about whether or not one could build a router. I happen to have a junk motor around. As direct evidence of the terrible tool adition that I (we) embrace, I am now contemplating the construction of a dubious machine that I have previously never heard of nor thought that I wanted. I am clearly out of my tree.

Yes, proper dust collection is on the list as well. I've been looking at Bill Pentz's cyclone designs (Bill Pentz dust collection (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)) . Sounds like for about $300 and ~40 hrs labor, one can build a top notch dust collection system for a home shop. Perhaps that should be a different thread, though.

Keep the router/router table info coming, though. I've been good this year, and christmas is coming. Maybe Santa will bring me one...

[guillemot]

holy crap! Paul, you're right. We started with a yes/no question about whether or not one could build a router. I happen to have a junk motor around. As direct evidence of the terrible tool adition that I (we) embrace, I am now contemplating the construction of a dubious machine that I have previously never heard of nor thought that I wanted. I am clearly out of my tree.

Yes, proper dust collection is on the list as well. I've been looking at Bill Pentz's cyclone designs (Bill Pentz dust collection (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)) . Sounds like for about $300 and ~40 hrs labor, one can build a top notch dust collection system for a home shop. Perhaps that should be a different thread, though.

Keep the router/router table info coming, though. I've been good this year, and christmas is coming. Maybe Santa will bring me one...

[guillemot]

holy crap! Paul, you're right. We started with a yes/no question about whether or not one could build a router. I happen to have a junk motor around. As direct evidence of the terrible tool adition that I (we) embrace, I am now contemplating the construction of a dubious machine that I have previously never heard of nor thought that I wanted. I am clearly out of my tree.

Yes, proper dust collection is on the list as well. I've been looking at Bill Pentz's cyclone designs (Bill Pentz dust collection (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)) . Sounds like for about $300 and ~40 hrs labor, one can build a top notch dust collection system for a home shop. Perhaps that should be a different thread, though.

Keep the router/router table info coming, though. I've been good this year, and christmas is coming. Maybe Santa will bring me one...

[Rick Tyler]

A former neighbor of mine is an HVAC technician. He gave me a variable-speed blower motor from a furnace to build a shop air filter. I have the filters, the motor, and the AC cord to make the filter. I've had all these parts since before I moved to Washington eight years ago. No need to rush into these things...

[Rick Tyler]

A former neighbor of mine is an HVAC technician. He gave me a variable-speed blower motor from a furnace to build a shop air filter. I have the filters, the motor, and the AC cord to make the filter. I've had all these parts since before I moved to Washington eight years ago. No need to rush into these things...

[Rick Tyler]

A former neighbor of mine is an HVAC technician. He gave me a variable-speed blower motor from a furnace to build a shop air filter. I have the filters, the motor, and the AC cord to make the filter. I've had all these parts since before I moved to Washington eight years ago. No need to rush into these things...

[Paul Girouard]

Ya rushing in sort of takes the fun out of waiting to do it , LOL. I glued up those table tops, and rough cut the legs , I posted on misc thread like 6 or 8 years ago , now I want to be done redface.gif

I sure could use a air cleaner in the shop , what kind of trade could we make I wonder?

Well you wouldn't want to trade such treasures anyway tongue.gif

[Paul Girouard]

Ya rushing in sort of takes the fun out of waiting to do it , LOL. I glued up those table tops, and rough cut the legs , I posted on misc thread like 6 or 8 years ago , now I want to be done redface.gif

I sure could use a air cleaner in the shop , what kind of trade could we make I wonder?

Well you wouldn't want to trade such treasures anyway tongue.gif

[Paul Girouard]

Ya rushing in sort of takes the fun out of waiting to do it , LOL. I glued up those table tops, and rough cut the legs , I posted on misc thread like 6 or 8 years ago , now I want to be done redface.gif

I sure could use a air cleaner in the shop , what kind of trade could we make I wonder?

Well you wouldn't want to trade such treasures anyway tongue.gif

[Ken Hutchins]

Before you 'rush' to build a home made dust collector, make sure you understand all the shocking facts about static electricity, specifically how to build it to prevent static from building up to the point of making a spark and igniting the whole works with a substantial bang. :eek:

[Ken Hutchins]

Before you 'rush' to build a home made dust collector, make sure you understand all the shocking facts about static electricity, specifically how to build it to prevent static from building up to the point of making a spark and igniting the whole works with a substantial bang. :eek:

[Ken Hutchins]

Before you 'rush' to build a home made dust collector, make sure you understand all the shocking facts about static electricity, specifically how to build it to prevent static from building up to the point of making a spark and igniting the whole works with a substantial bang. :eek:

[Paul Girouard]

I'd think a bare copper wire run inside the collector(between the filters so to speak ) and then to a good ground would do quite nicely. That's all we did in the old cab shop, ran a bare copper wire in the pipe to the dust collector , and then to GND. Paul

[Paul Girouard]

I'd think a bare copper wire run inside the collector(between the filters so to speak ) and then to a good ground would do quite nicely. That's all we did in the old cab shop, ran a bare copper wire in the pipe to the dust collector , and then to GND. Paul

[Paul Girouard]

I'd think a bare copper wire run inside the collector(between the filters so to speak ) and then to a good ground would do quite nicely. That's all we did in the old cab shop, ran a bare copper wire in the pipe to the dust collector , and then to GND. Paul