Boat hook holders

[almeyer]

I bought a bronze boat hook from our sponsor, and am in the process of fitting a shaft to it. Now I'm looking for some holders. I've searched my limited supply of catalogs (West Marine, Jamestown Distributors, and Hamilton Marine) and a few web sites, and the only holders I've found are made of stainless. I'd prefer some made of bronze. Anybody know of a source?
Thanks, Al

[almeyer]

I bought a bronze boat hook from our sponsor, and am in the process of fitting a shaft to it. Now I'm looking for some holders. I've searched my limited supply of catalogs (West Marine, Jamestown Distributors, and Hamilton Marine) and a few web sites, and the only holders I've found are made of stainless. I'd prefer some made of bronze. Anybody know of a source?
Thanks, Al

[almeyer]

I bought a bronze boat hook from our sponsor, and am in the process of fitting a shaft to it. Now I'm looking for some holders. I've searched my limited supply of catalogs (West Marine, Jamestown Distributors, and Hamilton Marine) and a few web sites, and the only holders I've found are made of stainless. I'd prefer some made of bronze. Anybody know of a source?
Thanks, Al

[Mr.O]

Hey Al Try Bristol Bronze. (www.Bristolbronze.com) I buy all my Haven 12 1/2 fittings from them and they are very fine. Jack

[Mr.O]

Hey Al Try Bristol Bronze. (www.Bristolbronze.com) I buy all my Haven 12 1/2 fittings from them and they are very fine. Jack

[Mr.O]

Hey Al Try Bristol Bronze. (www.Bristolbronze.com) I buy all my Haven 12 1/2 fittings from them and they are very fine. Jack

[Ian McColgin]

As you make the shaft, consider two winkles I've long been advocating.

Firstly, it's nice to float upright. Easy way to do this - make the handle a bit thick. While it's still eightsided, shape the cone that will go in the socket nicely, good clean sholder and all that. Hopefully the flats on the eight-siding are just a nudge proud of the head's outer side. Tack the head in place and take the hook to water. You'll need to hold it perpendicular, buy you can ease it down in the water and find the place where it floats. Mark that.

Now start tapering in back from the hook , thinnest just about 6" above the hook and thickening back to full diameter about at your mark. Then tapering again to the end.

Test the floating now and again. As you remove lower wood you reduce the total floatation and the mark will rise on the handle a bit. As you make the upper taper, you reduce the weight that's not immersed and that will tend to lower the mark. They will about cancell, depending on your taper, choise of shaft wood, etc.

This gives a nice shape easy to extend as it's light as can be, no bump at the hook itself so line slides nicely in place. Put a loop at the end and maybe paint the very end bright white so you can easily recover it when you drop it in the dark.

Speaking of dark, you need a way to feel where the hook is. I put a groove along the handle same orientation as the hook. In a normal reaching into dark water to snag a mooring pendant, I like the hook facing up and come at the pendant from below. The outer hand will naturally have my thumb on top, so alligning the groove under that thumb guarentees that the hook is facing a useful way.

Remember, a boat hook is a pulling tool. You can sometimes use it to fend a small boat off something but unless you're willing to put a spike tip on the end and inflict damage on pilings and other boats' topsides, it's a slipper pusher at best. Use the boat hook to pull, not push.

[Ian McColgin]

As you make the shaft, consider two winkles I've long been advocating.

Firstly, it's nice to float upright. Easy way to do this - make the handle a bit thick. While it's still eightsided, shape the cone that will go in the socket nicely, good clean sholder and all that. Hopefully the flats on the eight-siding are just a nudge proud of the head's outer side. Tack the head in place and take the hook to water. You'll need to hold it perpendicular, buy you can ease it down in the water and find the place where it floats. Mark that.

Now start tapering in back from the hook , thinnest just about 6" above the hook and thickening back to full diameter about at your mark. Then tapering again to the end.

Test the floating now and again. As you remove lower wood you reduce the total floatation and the mark will rise on the handle a bit. As you make the upper taper, you reduce the weight that's not immersed and that will tend to lower the mark. They will about cancell, depending on your taper, choise of shaft wood, etc.

This gives a nice shape easy to extend as it's light as can be, no bump at the hook itself so line slides nicely in place. Put a loop at the end and maybe paint the very end bright white so you can easily recover it when you drop it in the dark.

Speaking of dark, you need a way to feel where the hook is. I put a groove along the handle same orientation as the hook. In a normal reaching into dark water to snag a mooring pendant, I like the hook facing up and come at the pendant from below. The outer hand will naturally have my thumb on top, so alligning the groove under that thumb guarentees that the hook is facing a useful way.

Remember, a boat hook is a pulling tool. You can sometimes use it to fend a small boat off something but unless you're willing to put a spike tip on the end and inflict damage on pilings and other boats' topsides, it's a slipper pusher at best. Use the boat hook to pull, not push.

[Ian McColgin]

As you make the shaft, consider two winkles I've long been advocating.

Firstly, it's nice to float upright. Easy way to do this - make the handle a bit thick. While it's still eightsided, shape the cone that will go in the socket nicely, good clean sholder and all that. Hopefully the flats on the eight-siding are just a nudge proud of the head's outer side. Tack the head in place and take the hook to water. You'll need to hold it perpendicular, buy you can ease it down in the water and find the place where it floats. Mark that.

Now start tapering in back from the hook , thinnest just about 6" above the hook and thickening back to full diameter about at your mark. Then tapering again to the end.

Test the floating now and again. As you remove lower wood you reduce the total floatation and the mark will rise on the handle a bit. As you make the upper taper, you reduce the weight that's not immersed and that will tend to lower the mark. They will about cancell, depending on your taper, choise of shaft wood, etc.

This gives a nice shape easy to extend as it's light as can be, no bump at the hook itself so line slides nicely in place. Put a loop at the end and maybe paint the very end bright white so you can easily recover it when you drop it in the dark.

Speaking of dark, you need a way to feel where the hook is. I put a groove along the handle same orientation as the hook. In a normal reaching into dark water to snag a mooring pendant, I like the hook facing up and come at the pendant from below. The outer hand will naturally have my thumb on top, so alligning the groove under that thumb guarentees that the hook is facing a useful way.

Remember, a boat hook is a pulling tool. You can sometimes use it to fend a small boat off something but unless you're willing to put a spike tip on the end and inflict damage on pilings and other boats' topsides, it's a slipper pusher at best. Use the boat hook to pull, not push.

[Dave Hadfield]

Mine is stored on the side of the mizzenmast, which is square-sided, LFH-style.

It was easy to make a simple large eye-strap for the handle, above, and a simple 90-degree fitting below pierced for the point of the boathook.

I made both fittings very simply from beaten copper water pipe, ground and then polished. They look great, don't rust, cost nothing and are quite strong enough.

[Dave Hadfield]

Mine is stored on the side of the mizzenmast, which is square-sided, LFH-style.

It was easy to make a simple large eye-strap for the handle, above, and a simple 90-degree fitting below pierced for the point of the boathook.

I made both fittings very simply from beaten copper water pipe, ground and then polished. They look great, don't rust, cost nothing and are quite strong enough.

[Dave Hadfield]

Mine is stored on the side of the mizzenmast, which is square-sided, LFH-style.

It was easy to make a simple large eye-strap for the handle, above, and a simple 90-degree fitting below pierced for the point of the boathook.

I made both fittings very simply from beaten copper water pipe, ground and then polished. They look great, don't rust, cost nothing and are quite strong enough.

[JimConlin]

In the last boat, I found a place where the boathook sprung securely between the bulwarks and a couple of lifeline stanchions. It was out of the way but readily accessible with one hand.
If there isn't such a place in the new boat, i expect i'll do some wood chocks with leather bearing surfaces, plus a bit of bungee.

[JimConlin]

In the last boat, I found a place where the boathook sprung securely between the bulwarks and a couple of lifeline stanchions. It was out of the way but readily accessible with one hand.
If there isn't such a place in the new boat, i expect i'll do some wood chocks with leather bearing surfaces, plus a bit of bungee.

[JimConlin]

In the last boat, I found a place where the boathook sprung securely between the bulwarks and a couple of lifeline stanchions. It was out of the way but readily accessible with one hand.
If there isn't such a place in the new boat, i expect i'll do some wood chocks with leather bearing surfaces, plus a bit of bungee.

[Figment]

I have a pair of grommets lashed to my starboard (dock side) shroud. A small one down at the turnbuckle for the pointy end, and a larger one about 6' up.

It works like a cuestick rack. Though the fit is loose as a goose, the hook has yet to jump free in sloppy conditions.

Really it's a less elegant version of what Dave describes above. But I have no room on my mast, and it seems that I'm always hanging from the shroud when using the hook anyway for some reason...

[Figment]

I have a pair of grommets lashed to my starboard (dock side) shroud. A small one down at the turnbuckle for the pointy end, and a larger one about 6' up.

It works like a cuestick rack. Though the fit is loose as a goose, the hook has yet to jump free in sloppy conditions.

Really it's a less elegant version of what Dave describes above. But I have no room on my mast, and it seems that I'm always hanging from the shroud when using the hook anyway for some reason...

[Figment]

I have a pair of grommets lashed to my starboard (dock side) shroud. A small one down at the turnbuckle for the pointy end, and a larger one about 6' up.

It works like a cuestick rack. Though the fit is loose as a goose, the hook has yet to jump free in sloppy conditions.

Really it's a less elegant version of what Dave describes above. But I have no room on my mast, and it seems that I'm always hanging from the shroud when using the hook anyway for some reason...

[Bob Cleek]

Figment's right, that's the way it is done. I can't imagine paying for a fitting to do it any other way on a sailboat. Customarily, two stainless or bronze rings are used, a bit larger than the handle. Lash one down around the turnbuckle and the other on the shroud up at the right height. (The one on the bottom has to be high enough to permit the upper end of the handle to get through the upper ring.) Like a pool cue rack, you just shove the end of the handle into the upper ring and then drop the point into the lower ring and it'll just hang there until you need it, completely out of the way. In fact, I think that's why boathooks have points, isn't it?

[Bob Cleek]

Figment's right, that's the way it is done. I can't imagine paying for a fitting to do it any other way on a sailboat. Customarily, two stainless or bronze rings are used, a bit larger than the handle. Lash one down around the turnbuckle and the other on the shroud up at the right height. (The one on the bottom has to be high enough to permit the upper end of the handle to get through the upper ring.) Like a pool cue rack, you just shove the end of the handle into the upper ring and then drop the point into the lower ring and it'll just hang there until you need it, completely out of the way. In fact, I think that's why boathooks have points, isn't it?

[Bob Cleek]

Figment's right, that's the way it is done. I can't imagine paying for a fitting to do it any other way on a sailboat. Customarily, two stainless or bronze rings are used, a bit larger than the handle. Lash one down around the turnbuckle and the other on the shroud up at the right height. (The one on the bottom has to be high enough to permit the upper end of the handle to get through the upper ring.) Like a pool cue rack, you just shove the end of the handle into the upper ring and then drop the point into the lower ring and it'll just hang there until you need it, completely out of the way. In fact, I think that's why boathooks have points, isn't it?

[almeyer]

Thanks for the responses. When I ordered the hook from the Wooden Boat Store, it included a nice article by Jon Wilson on the attributes of a hook that floats upright. The instructions are pretty much the same as Ian described. I used a 5' shovel handle from the local hardware store rather than a 6' long piece of mahog. The handle looks it's ash. I don't think being a foot shorter is going to hurt me any, as the boat I've got is a 14-foot daysailer. I made the boathook mostly for pushing and pulling myself towards the dock. I've been using my homemade Culler-style oars to push away from the dock, but the blades are fairly thin and I'm afraid of snapping them one day. The oars aren't anything super fancy, but they're still a lot nicer than the ones they sell at the local boat store.

Since the boat is so small, the hook is going to have to be stored horizontal. Borrowing Figment's suggestion, it should be pretty to weave a rope grommet into the ring of an eyebolt, which could then be screwed into the under-side of the inwale. I'll also check out the Bristol website, for drooling purposes if nothing else. Thanks again for your replies.
Al

[almeyer]

Thanks for the responses. When I ordered the hook from the Wooden Boat Store, it included a nice article by Jon Wilson on the attributes of a hook that floats upright. The instructions are pretty much the same as Ian described. I used a 5' shovel handle from the local hardware store rather than a 6' long piece of mahog. The handle looks it's ash. I don't think being a foot shorter is going to hurt me any, as the boat I've got is a 14-foot daysailer. I made the boathook mostly for pushing and pulling myself towards the dock. I've been using my homemade Culler-style oars to push away from the dock, but the blades are fairly thin and I'm afraid of snapping them one day. The oars aren't anything super fancy, but they're still a lot nicer than the ones they sell at the local boat store.

Since the boat is so small, the hook is going to have to be stored horizontal. Borrowing Figment's suggestion, it should be pretty to weave a rope grommet into the ring of an eyebolt, which could then be screwed into the under-side of the inwale. I'll also check out the Bristol website, for drooling purposes if nothing else. Thanks again for your replies.
Al

[almeyer]

Thanks for the responses. When I ordered the hook from the Wooden Boat Store, it included a nice article by Jon Wilson on the attributes of a hook that floats upright. The instructions are pretty much the same as Ian described. I used a 5' shovel handle from the local hardware store rather than a 6' long piece of mahog. The handle looks it's ash. I don't think being a foot shorter is going to hurt me any, as the boat I've got is a 14-foot daysailer. I made the boathook mostly for pushing and pulling myself towards the dock. I've been using my homemade Culler-style oars to push away from the dock, but the blades are fairly thin and I'm afraid of snapping them one day. The oars aren't anything super fancy, but they're still a lot nicer than the ones they sell at the local boat store.

Since the boat is so small, the hook is going to have to be stored horizontal. Borrowing Figment's suggestion, it should be pretty to weave a rope grommet into the ring of an eyebolt, which could then be screwed into the under-side of the inwale. I'll also check out the Bristol website, for drooling purposes if nothing else. Thanks again for your replies.
Al

[landlocked sailor]

This is really a follow-up to my 'floating boathook' thread over in Building & Repair. I want to store my 'hook on a shroud as described by Figment, but where to fing round grommets to lash to the shroud. All my usual suspects (Jamestown, Hamilton, etc) only have 'raindrop' shaped ones.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/catimg/HDWTHIMBLE.JPG
I think I need round ones don't I? Rick :confused:

[landlocked sailor]

This is really a follow-up to my 'floating boathook' thread over in Building & Repair. I want to store my 'hook on a shroud as described by Figment, but where to fing round grommets to lash to the shroud. All my usual suspects (Jamestown, Hamilton, etc) only have 'raindrop' shaped ones.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/catimg/HDWTHIMBLE.JPG
I think I need round ones don't I? Rick :confused:

[landlocked sailor]

This is really a follow-up to my 'floating boathook' thread over in Building & Repair. I want to store my 'hook on a shroud as described by Figment, but where to fing round grommets to lash to the shroud. All my usual suspects (Jamestown, Hamilton, etc) only have 'raindrop' shaped ones.
http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/catimg/HDWTHIMBLE.JPG
I think I need round ones don't I? Rick :confused:

[Figment]

I use rope grommets, not metal.

For metal grommets, though, I'd try the local sail loft. Failing that (they may only have the press-in kind), I'd peck around on Brion Toss' website for a while.

[Figment]

I use rope grommets, not metal.

For metal grommets, though, I'd try the local sail loft. Failing that (they may only have the press-in kind), I'd peck around on Brion Toss' website for a while.

[Figment]

I use rope grommets, not metal.

For metal grommets, though, I'd try the local sail loft. Failing that (they may only have the press-in kind), I'd peck around on Brion Toss' website for a while.

[Frank Wentzel]

Sailrite carries brass grommets in several sizes.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Sailrite carries brass grommets in several sizes.

/// Frank ///

[Frank Wentzel]

Sailrite carries brass grommets in several sizes.

/// Frank ///

[landlocked sailor]

Frank, the Sailrite thimbles would probably work for the lower, hook end, but the upper thimble for the handle has to have an ID of >1 1/4". A rope grommet is probably the answer there. Figment, Brian Toss wrote and article for WB in the early years that also appears in his book about "the comforts of service". In it, he descibes serving two areas on the shrouds and laching thimbles for the boathook. The illustrations LOOK like metal thimbles, but he has none listed on his website. You wouldn't have a photo of your setup would you? Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Frank, the Sailrite thimbles would probably work for the lower, hook end, but the upper thimble for the handle has to have an ID of >1 1/4". A rope grommet is probably the answer there. Figment, Brian Toss wrote and article for WB in the early years that also appears in his book about "the comforts of service". In it, he descibes serving two areas on the shrouds and laching thimbles for the boathook. The illustrations LOOK like metal thimbles, but he has none listed on his website. You wouldn't have a photo of your setup would you? Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Frank, the Sailrite thimbles would probably work for the lower, hook end, but the upper thimble for the handle has to have an ID of >1 1/4". A rope grommet is probably the answer there. Figment, Brian Toss wrote and article for WB in the early years that also appears in his book about "the comforts of service". In it, he descibes serving two areas on the shrouds and laching thimbles for the boathook. The illustrations LOOK like metal thimbles, but he has none listed on his website. You wouldn't have a photo of your setup would you? Rick

[Figment]

Sorry, I don't have a pic, and I really doubt that it would look at all like anything Brion Toss would do. :D

It's nothing tricky, or particularly pretty for that matter. The upper grommet is roughly 2" diameter (I haven't actually laid eyes on it since November haulout), the lower is a bit smaller. Both are simply lashed to the shroud or turnbuckle with some twine. The lashing only covers about 1/4" of the wire so I haven't bothered to serve it beforehand.

If you can't find suitable grommets (I infer that you really want metal), how about a pair of ordinary bronze rings?

[Figment]

Sorry, I don't have a pic, and I really doubt that it would look at all like anything Brion Toss would do. :D

It's nothing tricky, or particularly pretty for that matter. The upper grommet is roughly 2" diameter (I haven't actually laid eyes on it since November haulout), the lower is a bit smaller. Both are simply lashed to the shroud or turnbuckle with some twine. The lashing only covers about 1/4" of the wire so I haven't bothered to serve it beforehand.

If you can't find suitable grommets (I infer that you really want metal), how about a pair of ordinary bronze rings?

[Figment]

Sorry, I don't have a pic, and I really doubt that it would look at all like anything Brion Toss would do. :D

It's nothing tricky, or particularly pretty for that matter. The upper grommet is roughly 2" diameter (I haven't actually laid eyes on it since November haulout), the lower is a bit smaller. Both are simply lashed to the shroud or turnbuckle with some twine. The lashing only covers about 1/4" of the wire so I haven't bothered to serve it beforehand.

If you can't find suitable grommets (I infer that you really want metal), how about a pair of ordinary bronze rings?

[Figment]

Second thought: ask Todd Bradshaw. If anyone knows where to lay hands on a big bronze thimble, it'll be Todd.

[Figment]

Second thought: ask Todd Bradshaw. If anyone knows where to lay hands on a big bronze thimble, it'll be Todd.

[Figment]

Second thought: ask Todd Bradshaw. If anyone knows where to lay hands on a big bronze thimble, it'll be Todd.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Alternatively, our boathooks usually come with a large rope grommet worked in the end -- you can simply wrap it round the shroud and drop it back over the end of the shaft.

Mike

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/bh-penelope-s.jpg
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Alternatively, our boathooks usually come with a large rope grommet worked in the end -- you can simply wrap it round the shroud and drop it back over the end of the shaft.

Mike

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/bh-penelope-s.jpg
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

.
Alternatively, our boathooks usually come with a large rope grommet worked in the end -- you can simply wrap it round the shroud and drop it back over the end of the shaft.

Mike

http://www.woodenboatfittings.com.au/public/bh-penelope-s.jpg
.

[almeyer]

I used Figment's suggestion and wove some rope gromments. You'll never think that a professional made them, but they seem to work well enough. I would think a metal gromment would be less flexible, more noisy, and more likely to scratch the finish of the boathook and the boat, but that's just my personal preference.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p9268946a399e96af0bb52240e2faf714/f51ce1cf.jpg

[almeyer]

I used Figment's suggestion and wove some rope gromments. You'll never think that a professional made them, but they seem to work well enough. I would think a metal gromment would be less flexible, more noisy, and more likely to scratch the finish of the boathook and the boat, but that's just my personal preference.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p9268946a399e96af0bb52240e2faf714/f51ce1cf.jpg

[almeyer]

I used Figment's suggestion and wove some rope gromments. You'll never think that a professional made them, but they seem to work well enough. I would think a metal gromment would be less flexible, more noisy, and more likely to scratch the finish of the boathook and the boat, but that's just my personal preference.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid158/p9268946a399e96af0bb52240e2faf714/f51ce1cf.jpg

[JimConlin]

I know that the heavens may part at any moment, but THESE (http://www.beckson.com/plasticclips.htm) do the job.

[ 03-31-2005, 12:23 AM: Message edited by: JimConlin ]

[JimConlin]

I know that the heavens may part at any moment, but THESE (http://www.beckson.com/plasticclips.htm) do the job.

[ 03-31-2005, 12:23 AM: Message edited by: JimConlin ]

[JimConlin]

I know that the heavens may part at any moment, but THESE (http://www.beckson.com/plasticclips.htm) do the job.

[ 03-31-2005, 12:23 AM: Message edited by: JimConlin ]

[landlocked sailor]

My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. Good point about a metal ring scratching the varnish; maybe I'll opt for nicely oiled ash. I'll bet the best solution is a brass ring nicely served with twine & lashed firmly to the shroud. I think I'll try that and post some photos. C'mon spring!!! Rick

[landlocked sailor]

My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. Good point about a metal ring scratching the varnish; maybe I'll opt for nicely oiled ash. I'll bet the best solution is a brass ring nicely served with twine & lashed firmly to the shroud. I think I'll try that and post some photos. C'mon spring!!! Rick

[landlocked sailor]

My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. Good point about a metal ring scratching the varnish; maybe I'll opt for nicely oiled ash. I'll bet the best solution is a brass ring nicely served with twine & lashed firmly to the shroud. I think I'll try that and post some photos. C'mon spring!!! Rick

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Originally posted by landlocked sailor:
My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. I would think it should work fine Rick, especially if you use a reasonably large-sized line (say 1½"+,) put a short serving for it on the shroud, and fasten it to the shroud with a good tight racking seizing.

Or of course you could make up a leathered wood ring like a mini-masthoop, and attach it as you would a rigging cleat.

Mike
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Originally posted by landlocked sailor:
My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. I would think it should work fine Rick, especially if you use a reasonably large-sized line (say 1½"+,) put a short serving for it on the shroud, and fasten it to the shroud with a good tight racking seizing.

Or of course you could make up a leathered wood ring like a mini-masthoop, and attach it as you would a rigging cleat.

Mike
.

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Originally posted by landlocked sailor:
My intent is to lash grommets to the shroud as described above, so the upper one would, ideally, remain "erect" ;) or perpendicular to the shroud so one could easily slide the handle end in from below. I suppose a rope grommet could be made stiff enough to do this. I would think it should work fine Rick, especially if you use a reasonably large-sized line (say 1½"+,) put a short serving for it on the shroud, and fasten it to the shroud with a good tight racking seizing.

Or of course you could make up a leathered wood ring like a mini-masthoop, and attach it as you would a rigging cleat.

Mike
.

[Buddy]

Based on the been there, done that principle, I suggest you test drive that hardware store ash handle in shallow, calm water. I used one too for my Woodenboat bronze hook. Mine was the "chubbiest" one I could find, ended in a square section, seemed like it was for a post hole digger. Mine finished out to seven feet, sized as a whisker pole for my jub. Rode along under the boom. One day, bouncing along merrily on a broad reach, it dislodged and went over the side. Sank just slowly enough as i attempted rescue to get my arm wet to the shoulder.
Jeez did my wife find that funny- she's been good naturedly concerned how much time I have poured into "gilding the lily" on a boat that after all "was well made and ready to go" when I bought it.
We've long carried a store bought telescoping aluminum boat hook on our fiberglass sloop- never the first problem
So when the art object, cum museum piece, jumped ship in the first season...

Now for the replacement, I used a well chosen pine closet rod blank. Same length, same diameter, but this pine one floats butt up just like the instructions said. The lower density makes all the difference. I would think it comes down to it, at 8 or 9 feet in length, almost any choice of 1 1/4" diameter wood pole would displace sufficient volume to float that bronze casting. At 5 feet, I wouldn't think any wood could.

[Buddy]

Based on the been there, done that principle, I suggest you test drive that hardware store ash handle in shallow, calm water. I used one too for my Woodenboat bronze hook. Mine was the "chubbiest" one I could find, ended in a square section, seemed like it was for a post hole digger. Mine finished out to seven feet, sized as a whisker pole for my jub. Rode along under the boom. One day, bouncing along merrily on a broad reach, it dislodged and went over the side. Sank just slowly enough as i attempted rescue to get my arm wet to the shoulder.
Jeez did my wife find that funny- she's been good naturedly concerned how much time I have poured into "gilding the lily" on a boat that after all "was well made and ready to go" when I bought it.
We've long carried a store bought telescoping aluminum boat hook on our fiberglass sloop- never the first problem
So when the art object, cum museum piece, jumped ship in the first season...

Now for the replacement, I used a well chosen pine closet rod blank. Same length, same diameter, but this pine one floats butt up just like the instructions said. The lower density makes all the difference. I would think it comes down to it, at 8 or 9 feet in length, almost any choice of 1 1/4" diameter wood pole would displace sufficient volume to float that bronze casting. At 5 feet, I wouldn't think any wood could.

[Buddy]

Based on the been there, done that principle, I suggest you test drive that hardware store ash handle in shallow, calm water. I used one too for my Woodenboat bronze hook. Mine was the "chubbiest" one I could find, ended in a square section, seemed like it was for a post hole digger. Mine finished out to seven feet, sized as a whisker pole for my jub. Rode along under the boom. One day, bouncing along merrily on a broad reach, it dislodged and went over the side. Sank just slowly enough as i attempted rescue to get my arm wet to the shoulder.
Jeez did my wife find that funny- she's been good naturedly concerned how much time I have poured into "gilding the lily" on a boat that after all "was well made and ready to go" when I bought it.
We've long carried a store bought telescoping aluminum boat hook on our fiberglass sloop- never the first problem
So when the art object, cum museum piece, jumped ship in the first season...

Now for the replacement, I used a well chosen pine closet rod blank. Same length, same diameter, but this pine one floats butt up just like the instructions said. The lower density makes all the difference. I would think it comes down to it, at 8 or 9 feet in length, almost any choice of 1 1/4" diameter wood pole would displace sufficient volume to float that bronze casting. At 5 feet, I wouldn't think any wood could.

[Buddy]

You can find a variety of 1/8 and 1/4" thick brass rings at any ACE Hardware, right next to the screw eyes and turnbuckles for less that the postage on a "marine order". No need to hunt down bronze, they'll soon tarnish to look the same. This is non- structural, minimum load, no threaded parts application, not rigging to support your mast.

[Buddy]

You can find a variety of 1/8 and 1/4" thick brass rings at any ACE Hardware, right next to the screw eyes and turnbuckles for less that the postage on a "marine order". No need to hunt down bronze, they'll soon tarnish to look the same. This is non- structural, minimum load, no threaded parts application, not rigging to support your mast.

[Buddy]

You can find a variety of 1/8 and 1/4" thick brass rings at any ACE Hardware, right next to the screw eyes and turnbuckles for less that the postage on a "marine order". No need to hunt down bronze, they'll soon tarnish to look the same. This is non- structural, minimum load, no threaded parts application, not rigging to support your mast.

[almeyer]

Buddy, I "proofed" my boathook at the local dock when I finished building it. It's a good idea to attach a dummy cord to it beforehand, just in case. The hook floated upright, but I had a pretty fair current that day, the dummy cord turned out to be a good idea. With the short (five-foot) shovel handle, it floats with about 5" above water, not a whole lot but for my small boat, it will be enough. I think you may have a point about using a less dense wood, it should float a little higher.
Al

[almeyer]

Buddy, I "proofed" my boathook at the local dock when I finished building it. It's a good idea to attach a dummy cord to it beforehand, just in case. The hook floated upright, but I had a pretty fair current that day, the dummy cord turned out to be a good idea. With the short (five-foot) shovel handle, it floats with about 5" above water, not a whole lot but for my small boat, it will be enough. I think you may have a point about using a less dense wood, it should float a little higher.
Al

[almeyer]

Buddy, I "proofed" my boathook at the local dock when I finished building it. It's a good idea to attach a dummy cord to it beforehand, just in case. The hook floated upright, but I had a pretty fair current that day, the dummy cord turned out to be a good idea. With the short (five-foot) shovel handle, it floats with about 5" above water, not a whole lot but for my small boat, it will be enough. I think you may have a point about using a less dense wood, it should float a little higher.
Al

[Magwitch]

Unless you really must make your own shaft, an ash pitchfork handle from my local farmers supply fitted with Davey's double hook bronze head works, and looks, very well. Floats upright with a foot or so out of the water. Takes varnish well and with all that saved time I can do a load of tiddely rope work on the shaft. smile.gif

IanW

[Magwitch]

Unless you really must make your own shaft, an ash pitchfork handle from my local farmers supply fitted with Davey's double hook bronze head works, and looks, very well. Floats upright with a foot or so out of the water. Takes varnish well and with all that saved time I can do a load of tiddely rope work on the shaft. smile.gif

IanW

[Magwitch]

Unless you really must make your own shaft, an ash pitchfork handle from my local farmers supply fitted with Davey's double hook bronze head works, and looks, very well. Floats upright with a foot or so out of the water. Takes varnish well and with all that saved time I can do a load of tiddely rope work on the shaft. smile.gif

IanW

[landlocked sailor]

Here are some pictures of my rig just finished. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/p160e0fe6e47ed00acec932d46727f668/f42ac9e1.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pdf880737d0894c8f330ad7ffa496ef0c/f42ac99d.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pe5b8b9ead32576ebacf9b7a236008b2c/f42ac963.jpg
Per Brion Toss's article in WB#71, I used tarred marline to serve the shroud, then lashed the rings on with the same stuff.
I used ash for the pole and tapered it to float (hopefully) upright. ;) Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Here are some pictures of my rig just finished. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/p160e0fe6e47ed00acec932d46727f668/f42ac9e1.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pdf880737d0894c8f330ad7ffa496ef0c/f42ac99d.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pe5b8b9ead32576ebacf9b7a236008b2c/f42ac963.jpg
Per Brion Toss's article in WB#71, I used tarred marline to serve the shroud, then lashed the rings on with the same stuff.
I used ash for the pole and tapered it to float (hopefully) upright. ;) Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Here are some pictures of my rig just finished. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/p160e0fe6e47ed00acec932d46727f668/f42ac9e1.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pdf880737d0894c8f330ad7ffa496ef0c/f42ac99d.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid168/pe5b8b9ead32576ebacf9b7a236008b2c/f42ac963.jpg
Per Brion Toss's article in WB#71, I used tarred marline to serve the shroud, then lashed the rings on with the same stuff.
I used ash for the pole and tapered it to float (hopefully) upright. ;) Rick