Handheld planer questions.

[Donn]

I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?

[Donn]

I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?

[Donn]

I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?

[Ed Harrow]

First, no expert. Yes, one can plane a surface wider than the blade width, assuming that nothing projects beneath the sole of the plane. PC made/makes a plane that is limited in this respect.

I have a Skil 100 that Dave Fleming helped me to acquire. I can't do any comparison for you as it's the only one I've used. They are no longer produced, parts can be a problem, but they have a very high following (good resale value).

[Ed Harrow]

First, no expert. Yes, one can plane a surface wider than the blade width, assuming that nothing projects beneath the sole of the plane. PC made/makes a plane that is limited in this respect.

I have a Skil 100 that Dave Fleming helped me to acquire. I can't do any comparison for you as it's the only one I've used. They are no longer produced, parts can be a problem, but they have a very high following (good resale value).

[Ed Harrow]

First, no expert. Yes, one can plane a surface wider than the blade width, assuming that nothing projects beneath the sole of the plane. PC made/makes a plane that is limited in this respect.

I have a Skil 100 that Dave Fleming helped me to acquire. I can't do any comparison for you as it's the only one I've used. They are no longer produced, parts can be a problem, but they have a very high following (good resale value).

[Bill Perkins]

I've got an Elu (Black and Decker )which is the only one I know .You want the option of planeing wide faces as mentioned .Also most but not all of the tools can rabbet to a limited extent , which is an option you might want .You use an edge guide for this .I recently needed new blades and found that a group of planers are useing the same replacement blades .It's handy to be part of this group.I think I'm running Bosh blades at the moment .

[ 11-04-2003, 06:20 AM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

I've got an Elu (Black and Decker )which is the only one I know .You want the option of planeing wide faces as mentioned .Also most but not all of the tools can rabbet to a limited extent , which is an option you might want .You use an edge guide for this .I recently needed new blades and found that a group of planers are useing the same replacement blades .It's handy to be part of this group.I think I'm running Bosh blades at the moment .

[ 11-04-2003, 06:20 AM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[Bill Perkins]

I've got an Elu (Black and Decker )which is the only one I know .You want the option of planeing wide faces as mentioned .Also most but not all of the tools can rabbet to a limited extent , which is an option you might want .You use an edge guide for this .I recently needed new blades and found that a group of planers are useing the same replacement blades .It's handy to be part of this group.I think I'm running Bosh blades at the moment .

[ 11-04-2003, 06:20 AM: Message edited by: Bill Perkins ]

[imported_Steven Bauer]

When I went shopping for a power plane the salesman tried to sell me the biggest, most powerful one they had - but I didn't fall for it. I settled on the smaller Bosch - I think it cost $99. I've been using it happily for years, no problems. Great tool. I've never felt the need for more power or capacity. It cuts white oak like butter! And changing the blades is quick and easy. They are carbide and reversible and replacable. And they last a long time.

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

When I went shopping for a power plane the salesman tried to sell me the biggest, most powerful one they had - but I didn't fall for it. I settled on the smaller Bosch - I think it cost $99. I've been using it happily for years, no problems. Great tool. I've never felt the need for more power or capacity. It cuts white oak like butter! And changing the blades is quick and easy. They are carbide and reversible and replacable. And they last a long time.

Steven

[imported_Steven Bauer]

When I went shopping for a power plane the salesman tried to sell me the biggest, most powerful one they had - but I didn't fall for it. I settled on the smaller Bosch - I think it cost $99. I've been using it happily for years, no problems. Great tool. I've never felt the need for more power or capacity. It cuts white oak like butter! And changing the blades is quick and easy. They are carbide and reversible and replacable. And they last a long time.

Steven

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I've had a Makita 3 1/4" for years. Good thing--Sears sells OEM bi-metal replacement knives(meaning they're easily available); Bad thing--the chip exit is right next to the cooling fan intake(it is on mine). The intake is also a source of air to force chips out. When it gets clogged, so does the chip chute. I used mine to shape Sonja's sternpost and keel, so I was using it in 'other than' horizontal positions which also helped clog the chute.

Rich

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I've had a Makita 3 1/4" for years. Good thing--Sears sells OEM bi-metal replacement knives(meaning they're easily available); Bad thing--the chip exit is right next to the cooling fan intake(it is on mine). The intake is also a source of air to force chips out. When it gets clogged, so does the chip chute. I used mine to shape Sonja's sternpost and keel, so I was using it in 'other than' horizontal positions which also helped clog the chute.

Rich

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I've had a Makita 3 1/4" for years. Good thing--Sears sells OEM bi-metal replacement knives(meaning they're easily available); Bad thing--the chip exit is right next to the cooling fan intake(it is on mine). The intake is also a source of air to force chips out. When it gets clogged, so does the chip chute. I used mine to shape Sonja's sternpost and keel, so I was using it in 'other than' horizontal positions which also helped clog the chute.

Rich

[Keith Wilson]

I have a $100 Bosch, which seem fine for my relatively light use. I'm sure the Skil 100 is vastly better if you can find one. It's a good tool for scarfing, planing wierd grain, or any planing that requires throwing a lot of chips quickly. I can't use it for fine work; it doesn't give feedback like a hand plane and so I can't control it as well. I plane a surface wider than the plane almost all the way down, and finish off with a few strokes of the hand plane.

Make sure whatever you buy has a reversible chip chute; getting a faceful of that stuff is no fun at all.

[Keith Wilson]

I have a $100 Bosch, which seem fine for my relatively light use. I'm sure the Skil 100 is vastly better if you can find one. It's a good tool for scarfing, planing wierd grain, or any planing that requires throwing a lot of chips quickly. I can't use it for fine work; it doesn't give feedback like a hand plane and so I can't control it as well. I plane a surface wider than the plane almost all the way down, and finish off with a few strokes of the hand plane.

Make sure whatever you buy has a reversible chip chute; getting a faceful of that stuff is no fun at all.

[Keith Wilson]

I have a $100 Bosch, which seem fine for my relatively light use. I'm sure the Skil 100 is vastly better if you can find one. It's a good tool for scarfing, planing wierd grain, or any planing that requires throwing a lot of chips quickly. I can't use it for fine work; it doesn't give feedback like a hand plane and so I can't control it as well. I plane a surface wider than the plane almost all the way down, and finish off with a few strokes of the hand plane.

Make sure whatever you buy has a reversible chip chute; getting a faceful of that stuff is no fun at all.

[Donn]

Good feedback. I'll be using the tool for both face planing and jointing. Also for cleaning up the surfaces of scavanged lumber, and maybe some rabetting.

The $139 Makita is best in category according to Coastal. It has a fixed 1/32" depth of cut. Bosch has a $139 machine that's a little faster, a little more amperage, and chip collection capabilities. It also has an adjustable depth of cut, up to 3/32".

[Donn]

Good feedback. I'll be using the tool for both face planing and jointing. Also for cleaning up the surfaces of scavanged lumber, and maybe some rabetting.

The $139 Makita is best in category according to Coastal. It has a fixed 1/32" depth of cut. Bosch has a $139 machine that's a little faster, a little more amperage, and chip collection capabilities. It also has an adjustable depth of cut, up to 3/32".

[Donn]

Good feedback. I'll be using the tool for both face planing and jointing. Also for cleaning up the surfaces of scavanged lumber, and maybe some rabetting.

The $139 Makita is best in category according to Coastal. It has a fixed 1/32" depth of cut. Bosch has a $139 machine that's a little faster, a little more amperage, and chip collection capabilities. It also has an adjustable depth of cut, up to 3/32".

[Donn]

What are the odds of two cross-posts on hand planers both using the word "feedback," for two different reasons?

I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. I watched Roger using a Bailey #8 on the edges of the chine and shear planks today, planing 2 planks at a time. He told me that when it was perfect, he'd get a full length shaving. Sum-gun...the last stroke was a full 16' shaving that I could read through.

[Donn]

What are the odds of two cross-posts on hand planers both using the word "feedback," for two different reasons?

I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. I watched Roger using a Bailey #8 on the edges of the chine and shear planks today, planing 2 planks at a time. He told me that when it was perfect, he'd get a full length shaving. Sum-gun...the last stroke was a full 16' shaving that I could read through.

[Donn]

What are the odds of two cross-posts on hand planers both using the word "feedback," for two different reasons?

I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. I watched Roger using a Bailey #8 on the edges of the chine and shear planks today, planing 2 planks at a time. He told me that when it was perfect, he'd get a full length shaving. Sum-gun...the last stroke was a full 16' shaving that I could read through.

[Keith Wilson]

Fixed depth? I don't think I'd like that, since I mainly use the thing for removing lots of wood quickly.

. . .

Jesus T. Christ!! I have several hand planes, reasonably sharp, and I've never even come close to making a 16' shaving! He may have been showing off a bit for your benefit, but that's still pretty impressive.
. . .

Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".

[ 10-29-2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

[Keith Wilson]

Fixed depth? I don't think I'd like that, since I mainly use the thing for removing lots of wood quickly.

. . .

Jesus T. Christ!! I have several hand planes, reasonably sharp, and I've never even come close to making a 16' shaving! He may have been showing off a bit for your benefit, but that's still pretty impressive.
. . .

Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".

[ 10-29-2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

[Keith Wilson]

Fixed depth? I don't think I'd like that, since I mainly use the thing for removing lots of wood quickly.

. . .

Jesus T. Christ!! I have several hand planes, reasonably sharp, and I've never even come close to making a 16' shaving! He may have been showing off a bit for your benefit, but that's still pretty impressive.
. . .

Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".

[ 10-29-2003, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: Keith Wilson ]

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".You need the Jargon Generator:

http://www.dack.com/web/bullshit.html

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".You need the Jargon Generator:

http://www.dack.com/web/bullshit.html

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by Keith Wilson:
Yeah, and two rather different meanings of feedback, too. Next we'll be using words like "utilize", "proactive", and "synergy".You need the Jargon Generator:

http://www.dack.com/web/bullshit.html

[Donn]

Keith...my mistake...that was two 16' shavings! He was hamming for the camera, I have some pics of him strolling down the length of the bench, driving the plane. At several points he was dragging a shaving along until he stepped on it and broke it off. He has a whole drawer full of metal body planes, and likely has wooden ones somewhere else.

He has his limits, though. His Skil saw wanders at around 11 1/2 feet, and I have a great story about him using a gouge to carve some decorative touches into the top of the stem. :D

[Donn]

Keith...my mistake...that was two 16' shavings! He was hamming for the camera, I have some pics of him strolling down the length of the bench, driving the plane. At several points he was dragging a shaving along until he stepped on it and broke it off. He has a whole drawer full of metal body planes, and likely has wooden ones somewhere else.

He has his limits, though. His Skil saw wanders at around 11 1/2 feet, and I have a great story about him using a gouge to carve some decorative touches into the top of the stem. :D

[Donn]

Keith...my mistake...that was two 16' shavings! He was hamming for the camera, I have some pics of him strolling down the length of the bench, driving the plane. At several points he was dragging a shaving along until he stepped on it and broke it off. He has a whole drawer full of metal body planes, and likely has wooden ones somewhere else.

He has his limits, though. His Skil saw wanders at around 11 1/2 feet, and I have a great story about him using a gouge to carve some decorative touches into the top of the stem. :D

[Stiletto]

I had a relatively cheap Skil for twenty years, (dont know the model as the label came off about five years ago) and had to replace it due to the unavailability of a replacement drive belt.
I had used it for everything including planing wide benchtops I had made.
A smaller planer such as my old Skil was is more useful in my opinion.
The Makitas seem good, I purchased a 920 watt Ryobi because the outlet chute could be set to throw either left or right. In use it doesnt have the nice balance of my old Skil though.

[Stiletto]

I had a relatively cheap Skil for twenty years, (dont know the model as the label came off about five years ago) and had to replace it due to the unavailability of a replacement drive belt.
I had used it for everything including planing wide benchtops I had made.
A smaller planer such as my old Skil was is more useful in my opinion.
The Makitas seem good, I purchased a 920 watt Ryobi because the outlet chute could be set to throw either left or right. In use it doesnt have the nice balance of my old Skil though.

[Stiletto]

I had a relatively cheap Skil for twenty years, (dont know the model as the label came off about five years ago) and had to replace it due to the unavailability of a replacement drive belt.
I had used it for everything including planing wide benchtops I had made.
A smaller planer such as my old Skil was is more useful in my opinion.
The Makitas seem good, I purchased a 920 watt Ryobi because the outlet chute could be set to throw either left or right. In use it doesnt have the nice balance of my old Skil though.

[warthog5]

I have the Mikita 4 3/8. I bought it specifically to add John Henery's scarfing jig and to be able to do 1/2 plywood.

[warthog5]

I have the Mikita 4 3/8. I bought it specifically to add John Henery's scarfing jig and to be able to do 1/2 plywood.

[warthog5]

I have the Mikita 4 3/8. I bought it specifically to add John Henery's scarfing jig and to be able to do 1/2 plywood.

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Donn:
...
I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. ...I used to think you was depraved, but you are right, just gotta switch that vowel to a later one, LOL. No hand plane! Donn, you don't know what you are missing... A well sharpened blade, a nicely set-up plane, a willing piece of wood - there's not much finer than that. Makes for a wonderful way to work away the stress of the day. The first time you do that there'll be no turning back.

By the way, the Skil 100 is adjustable from nat's ass to 1/8".

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Donn:
...
I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. ...I used to think you was depraved, but you are right, just gotta switch that vowel to a later one, LOL. No hand plane! Donn, you don't know what you are missing... A well sharpened blade, a nicely set-up plane, a willing piece of wood - there's not much finer than that. Makes for a wonderful way to work away the stress of the day. The first time you do that there'll be no turning back.

By the way, the Skil 100 is adjustable from nat's ass to 1/8".

[Ed Harrow]

Originally posted by Donn:
...
I don't own a hand plane, Keith. I'm pretty much tool deprived. I've never used one in my life. ...I used to think you was depraved, but you are right, just gotta switch that vowel to a later one, LOL. No hand plane! Donn, you don't know what you are missing... A well sharpened blade, a nicely set-up plane, a willing piece of wood - there's not much finer than that. Makes for a wonderful way to work away the stress of the day. The first time you do that there'll be no turning back.

By the way, the Skil 100 is adjustable from nat's ass to 1/8".

[Wayne Jeffers]

Donn,

I have a Makita 1900B planer that I'm happy with. The price was in the neighborhood of the one you're looking at. Blades are carbide, reversible, and easily changed/aligned.

Depth of cut is adjustable from zilch to something more than the advertised 1/32 inch. To plane boards wider than the 3 1/4 inch blade you just adjust the depth of cut to a progressively finer setting so you don't end up with ridges where the edge of the blade ran.

I use it mostly for removing a lot of stock quickly. But it's easy to remove too much wood with it until you've had a good bit of practice.

I use hand planes for most work. I have about a dozen very old hand planes, both iron and wooden, and they're a joy to work with.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Donn,

I have a Makita 1900B planer that I'm happy with. The price was in the neighborhood of the one you're looking at. Blades are carbide, reversible, and easily changed/aligned.

Depth of cut is adjustable from zilch to something more than the advertised 1/32 inch. To plane boards wider than the 3 1/4 inch blade you just adjust the depth of cut to a progressively finer setting so you don't end up with ridges where the edge of the blade ran.

I use it mostly for removing a lot of stock quickly. But it's easy to remove too much wood with it until you've had a good bit of practice.

I use hand planes for most work. I have about a dozen very old hand planes, both iron and wooden, and they're a joy to work with.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Donn,

I have a Makita 1900B planer that I'm happy with. The price was in the neighborhood of the one you're looking at. Blades are carbide, reversible, and easily changed/aligned.

Depth of cut is adjustable from zilch to something more than the advertised 1/32 inch. To plane boards wider than the 3 1/4 inch blade you just adjust the depth of cut to a progressively finer setting so you don't end up with ridges where the edge of the blade ran.

I use it mostly for removing a lot of stock quickly. But it's easy to remove too much wood with it until you've had a good bit of practice.

I use hand planes for most work. I have about a dozen very old hand planes, both iron and wooden, and they're a joy to work with.

Wayne

[Donn]

Wayne...the 1900B is the one that Coastal calls best in category, but if it makes the mess that Roger's Makita does, I think I may lean toward something with chip collection. It was like a snowstorm in there!

[Donn]

Wayne...the 1900B is the one that Coastal calls best in category, but if it makes the mess that Roger's Makita does, I think I may lean toward something with chip collection. It was like a snowstorm in there!

[Donn]

Wayne...the 1900B is the one that Coastal calls best in category, but if it makes the mess that Roger's Makita does, I think I may lean toward something with chip collection. It was like a snowstorm in there!

[Wayne Jeffers]

Originally posted by Donn:
. . . It was like a snowstorm in there!Yep!

I think maybe there is an accessory chip collector available for it. (An accessory that allows attaching the shop vac.) I'll see what Google comes up with.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Originally posted by Donn:
. . . It was like a snowstorm in there!Yep!

I think maybe there is an accessory chip collector available for it. (An accessory that allows attaching the shop vac.) I'll see what Google comes up with.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Originally posted by Donn:
. . . It was like a snowstorm in there!Yep!

I think maybe there is an accessory chip collector available for it. (An accessory that allows attaching the shop vac.) I'll see what Google comes up with.

Wayne

[Donn]

I downloaded the owner's manual from Makita, and there is an optional accessory "chip nozzle" that appears to be a round nozzle that redirects the chips. I'll be I could fasten a hose to that, eh?

[Donn]

I downloaded the owner's manual from Makita, and there is an optional accessory "chip nozzle" that appears to be a round nozzle that redirects the chips. I'll be I could fasten a hose to that, eh?

[Donn]

I downloaded the owner's manual from Makita, and there is an optional accessory "chip nozzle" that appears to be a round nozzle that redirects the chips. I'll be I could fasten a hose to that, eh?

[Wayne Jeffers]

Probably.

The only solution would be to attach a vac hose one way or another. A collector bag big enough to hold the chips would be too much in the way.

I just use the shop vac with the big hose to collect chips when I'm done. Like you said, it's like a snowstorm but those wood shaving are as flammable as paper so I want them out of the way ASAP.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Probably.

The only solution would be to attach a vac hose one way or another. A collector bag big enough to hold the chips would be too much in the way.

I just use the shop vac with the big hose to collect chips when I'm done. Like you said, it's like a snowstorm but those wood shaving are as flammable as paper so I want them out of the way ASAP.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Probably.

The only solution would be to attach a vac hose one way or another. A collector bag big enough to hold the chips would be too much in the way.

I just use the shop vac with the big hose to collect chips when I'm done. Like you said, it's like a snowstorm but those wood shaving are as flammable as paper so I want them out of the way ASAP.

Wayne

[Paul Morris]

At our shop, we recently purchased a new Bosch 31/4" planer and one of our main considerations was the ability to gather the shavings as we made them. We looked at Porter Cable, Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, Skill, Craftsman and Hitachi. In our opinion, the Swiss developed Bosch was the best value(cost/quality/features)for our use. Got one, and like it very well. The chip collection can be done from either side of the planer (left or right hand) so planing can be done both directions of movement. We use it a LOT on keels, stems and chines. ;)

[Paul Morris]

At our shop, we recently purchased a new Bosch 31/4" planer and one of our main considerations was the ability to gather the shavings as we made them. We looked at Porter Cable, Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, Skill, Craftsman and Hitachi. In our opinion, the Swiss developed Bosch was the best value(cost/quality/features)for our use. Got one, and like it very well. The chip collection can be done from either side of the planer (left or right hand) so planing can be done both directions of movement. We use it a LOT on keels, stems and chines. ;)

[Paul Morris]

At our shop, we recently purchased a new Bosch 31/4" planer and one of our main considerations was the ability to gather the shavings as we made them. We looked at Porter Cable, Makita, Bosch, Dewalt, Skill, Craftsman and Hitachi. In our opinion, the Swiss developed Bosch was the best value(cost/quality/features)for our use. Got one, and like it very well. The chip collection can be done from either side of the planer (left or right hand) so planing can be done both directions of movement. We use it a LOT on keels, stems and chines. ;)

[Donn]

Keith...I've been corrected by the builder. Those were only 14' shavings, not 16. :D

[Donn]

Keith...I've been corrected by the builder. Those were only 14' shavings, not 16. :D

[Donn]

Keith...I've been corrected by the builder. Those were only 14' shavings, not 16. :D

[John B]

You might consider buying a slightly more expensive unit with the ability to rebate Donn.I know it's a duplication of function in some respects... If I want a rebate I'll use the router, but sometimes I wish I'd spent the extra. I've been thrashing a Makita since ooooooo 1983 or so but I'll buy a rebate plane next time around.

[John B]

You might consider buying a slightly more expensive unit with the ability to rebate Donn.I know it's a duplication of function in some respects... If I want a rebate I'll use the router, but sometimes I wish I'd spent the extra. I've been thrashing a Makita since ooooooo 1983 or so but I'll buy a rebate plane next time around.

[John B]

You might consider buying a slightly more expensive unit with the ability to rebate Donn.I know it's a duplication of function in some respects... If I want a rebate I'll use the router, but sometimes I wish I'd spent the extra. I've been thrashing a Makita since ooooooo 1983 or so but I'll buy a rebate plane next time around.

[Donn]

John...I have no idea what "rebate" is, and I'm sure if I Google it, I'll get further away.

[Donn]

John...I have no idea what "rebate" is, and I'm sure if I Google it, I'll get further away.

[Donn]

John...I have no idea what "rebate" is, and I'm sure if I Google it, I'll get further away.

[Ed Harrow]

Where the garboard fits into the keel is a rebate. A hunk of wood taken out along the edge of one piece so that another piece of wood can be stuffed into it, sort-of. Kind of like a step. One might also use what is called a shoulder plane for such a task. If ya got some tool catalogs (you DO have some tool catalogs don't you...) you just might see a picture of one in use. Isn't there one being used on the cover of Scot's new catalog???

You've got to get yourself some handplanes, and of course the related sharpening equipment. So relaxing. Much better than the screech of a router or power plane.

[ 10-30-2003, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

Where the garboard fits into the keel is a rebate. A hunk of wood taken out along the edge of one piece so that another piece of wood can be stuffed into it, sort-of. Kind of like a step. One might also use what is called a shoulder plane for such a task. If ya got some tool catalogs (you DO have some tool catalogs don't you...) you just might see a picture of one in use. Isn't there one being used on the cover of Scot's new catalog???

You've got to get yourself some handplanes, and of course the related sharpening equipment. So relaxing. Much better than the screech of a router or power plane.

[ 10-30-2003, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[Ed Harrow]

Where the garboard fits into the keel is a rebate. A hunk of wood taken out along the edge of one piece so that another piece of wood can be stuffed into it, sort-of. Kind of like a step. One might also use what is called a shoulder plane for such a task. If ya got some tool catalogs (you DO have some tool catalogs don't you...) you just might see a picture of one in use. Isn't there one being used on the cover of Scot's new catalog???

You've got to get yourself some handplanes, and of course the related sharpening equipment. So relaxing. Much better than the screech of a router or power plane.

[ 10-30-2003, 11:11 PM: Message edited by: Ed Harrow ]

[John B]

Without one in front of me...... The rebate plane ( gawd knows what it's called over thar) allows you to plane deep and create a a a rebate( awwww)( a rabbet??) as Ed says..... because the mechanism of the plane motor etc is set up somewhat. My ordinary un-rabbitedfeature makita will plane a trough down about ( guess) say 10 or 12 mm , 1/2in, before the body of the plane stops it going any more. a rebate plane will let you dig a ditch say 1 " or so deep ( for aguments sake) should you want to make a fancy joint in a box section spar for example. As I said , you could do the same with a router... or set up a skill saw but there's an efficiency about the plane method and who can resist that.

[John B]

Without one in front of me...... The rebate plane ( gawd knows what it's called over thar) allows you to plane deep and create a a a rebate( awwww)( a rabbet??) as Ed says..... because the mechanism of the plane motor etc is set up somewhat. My ordinary un-rabbitedfeature makita will plane a trough down about ( guess) say 10 or 12 mm , 1/2in, before the body of the plane stops it going any more. a rebate plane will let you dig a ditch say 1 " or so deep ( for aguments sake) should you want to make a fancy joint in a box section spar for example. As I said , you could do the same with a router... or set up a skill saw but there's an efficiency about the plane method and who can resist that.

[John B]

Without one in front of me...... The rebate plane ( gawd knows what it's called over thar) allows you to plane deep and create a a a rebate( awwww)( a rabbet??) as Ed says..... because the mechanism of the plane motor etc is set up somewhat. My ordinary un-rabbitedfeature makita will plane a trough down about ( guess) say 10 or 12 mm , 1/2in, before the body of the plane stops it going any more. a rebate plane will let you dig a ditch say 1 " or so deep ( for aguments sake) should you want to make a fancy joint in a box section spar for example. As I said , you could do the same with a router... or set up a skill saw but there's an efficiency about the plane method and who can resist that.

[Nicholas Carey]

rebate (UK/NZ/Ozzie-speak) = rabbet (US-speak)

[Nicholas Carey]

rebate (UK/NZ/Ozzie-speak) = rabbet (US-speak)

[Nicholas Carey]

rebate (UK/NZ/Ozzie-speak) = rabbet (US-speak)

[Donn]

Wabbet...got it! :D

[Donn]

Wabbet...got it! :D

[Donn]

Wabbet...got it! :D

[igatenby]

Horses for courses

We've been using 3 different 'leckie planes on Grantala during the rebuild.

Barry's big old (and I do mean old) Japanese monster - about 18" long - weighs about two tons, with blades somewhere between 5 and 6" wide - it just cost him $200 to get new blades made for it.

My Pentagon (German) 3" (75mm) that I've had for about 15 years. I've found it hard to get 75mm blades, so I just snap off 82mm blades. We only use this where there is a risk of subsurface metal. It has found quite a few hidden bronze, steel and stainless screws.

I've also got a very small / light Chinese (GMC) plane that is a pain in the neck to sharpen (well to refit the blades, actually) but is a delight to use for roughing fitting work. For $60 Oz, this thing has been a bargain - as has the $200 Oz air compressor which stays on the boat.

Ian

[igatenby]

Horses for courses

We've been using 3 different 'leckie planes on Grantala during the rebuild.

Barry's big old (and I do mean old) Japanese monster - about 18" long - weighs about two tons, with blades somewhere between 5 and 6" wide - it just cost him $200 to get new blades made for it.

My Pentagon (German) 3" (75mm) that I've had for about 15 years. I've found it hard to get 75mm blades, so I just snap off 82mm blades. We only use this where there is a risk of subsurface metal. It has found quite a few hidden bronze, steel and stainless screws.

I've also got a very small / light Chinese (GMC) plane that is a pain in the neck to sharpen (well to refit the blades, actually) but is a delight to use for roughing fitting work. For $60 Oz, this thing has been a bargain - as has the $200 Oz air compressor which stays on the boat.

Ian

[igatenby]

Horses for courses

We've been using 3 different 'leckie planes on Grantala during the rebuild.

Barry's big old (and I do mean old) Japanese monster - about 18" long - weighs about two tons, with blades somewhere between 5 and 6" wide - it just cost him $200 to get new blades made for it.

My Pentagon (German) 3" (75mm) that I've had for about 15 years. I've found it hard to get 75mm blades, so I just snap off 82mm blades. We only use this where there is a risk of subsurface metal. It has found quite a few hidden bronze, steel and stainless screws.

I've also got a very small / light Chinese (GMC) plane that is a pain in the neck to sharpen (well to refit the blades, actually) but is a delight to use for roughing fitting work. For $60 Oz, this thing has been a bargain - as has the $200 Oz air compressor which stays on the boat.

Ian

[Jim H]

Donn, I have the Makita 1900B, as others have said it's a good planer and very easy to change the blades.

[Jim H]

Donn, I have the Makita 1900B, as others have said it's a good planer and very easy to change the blades.

[Jim H]

Donn, I have the Makita 1900B, as others have said it's a good planer and very easy to change the blades.

[RodB]

Donn,

I have both the 3 3/8" and the 4 3/8 " Makita planers. The smaller one has the John Henry Scarffer attachment while the larger one is used for general wood work to remove wood quickly with plenty of control and a very clean cut.
I love the scarffing attachment on these planers but would not be without one on its own for general planing. I would not buy any power planer if one of John Henrys scarffing attachments did not go on it.

On my stitch and glue project I would rate these hand power planers as "must have" tools. When I installed my transom there would have been no better tool to cut off 1/8" along a side ( 2 3/4" thick transom) keeping the 12 degree angle necessary for proper fit. If I cut a panel to fit in my boat the power planer is great for removing say 1/4 inch off of one edge via following a pencil line, and nothing would be as fast and cut so clean.

BTW, I found both planers in Pawn shops and paid around $60 for each with cases. The larger model's carbide blades are expensive.

RB

[ 11-04-2003, 01:42 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

Donn,

I have both the 3 3/8" and the 4 3/8 " Makita planers. The smaller one has the John Henry Scarffer attachment while the larger one is used for general wood work to remove wood quickly with plenty of control and a very clean cut.
I love the scarffing attachment on these planers but would not be without one on its own for general planing. I would not buy any power planer if one of John Henrys scarffing attachments did not go on it.

On my stitch and glue project I would rate these hand power planers as "must have" tools. When I installed my transom there would have been no better tool to cut off 1/8" along a side ( 2 3/4" thick transom) keeping the 12 degree angle necessary for proper fit. If I cut a panel to fit in my boat the power planer is great for removing say 1/4 inch off of one edge via following a pencil line, and nothing would be as fast and cut so clean.

BTW, I found both planers in Pawn shops and paid around $60 for each with cases. The larger model's carbide blades are expensive.

RB

[ 11-04-2003, 01:42 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[RodB]

Donn,

I have both the 3 3/8" and the 4 3/8 " Makita planers. The smaller one has the John Henry Scarffer attachment while the larger one is used for general wood work to remove wood quickly with plenty of control and a very clean cut.
I love the scarffing attachment on these planers but would not be without one on its own for general planing. I would not buy any power planer if one of John Henrys scarffing attachments did not go on it.

On my stitch and glue project I would rate these hand power planers as "must have" tools. When I installed my transom there would have been no better tool to cut off 1/8" along a side ( 2 3/4" thick transom) keeping the 12 degree angle necessary for proper fit. If I cut a panel to fit in my boat the power planer is great for removing say 1/4 inch off of one edge via following a pencil line, and nothing would be as fast and cut so clean.

BTW, I found both planers in Pawn shops and paid around $60 for each with cases. The larger model's carbide blades are expensive.

RB

[ 11-04-2003, 01:42 AM: Message edited by: RodB ]

[capt jake]

Hey Donn, in an effort to keep costs down, check with the local rental shop. I bought my Makita 4 3/8" for $75 from them. Hardly used! It is a great tool. I have plans to buy the John Henry scarfing attachment as well.

[capt jake]

Hey Donn, in an effort to keep costs down, check with the local rental shop. I bought my Makita 4 3/8" for $75 from them. Hardly used! It is a great tool. I have plans to buy the John Henry scarfing attachment as well.

[capt jake]

Hey Donn, in an effort to keep costs down, check with the local rental shop. I bought my Makita 4 3/8" for $75 from them. Hardly used! It is a great tool. I have plans to buy the John Henry scarfing attachment as well.

[Art Read]

For those of us who build boats by screwing lots of wood together and then shaving, grinding, and sanding away at it 'till it looks like a boat, a handheld power plane, a belt sander and a good quality random orbital sander are the three most often grabbed tools in the shop. During my project, I started with a cheap belt sander that I "inherited" from my Dad, (don't tell him!) a new Black and Decker(?) power plane and a new Porter Cable R/O. Five years, and about twenty or thirty hefty bags full of sawdust later, I'm on my third, (first one I actually BOUGHT) belt sander, second power plane, (the lead ballast killed the first one I think...) and second Porter Cable R/O. (The first still works, but the threads in the pad attachment are stripped out. I just swap parts out of both back and forth to keep at least one going all the time...)

I never bought the cheapest, but I've never bought the most expensive either. If I was going to be building boats for the rest of my life, I'd worry over the selection more. Just trying to get the job done, when something breaks and I need it right now, I buy whatever is in stock and I can afford. I've been dissapointed with some supposedly "quality" stuff and some things I consdidered "disposable" are still going strong. Go figure.

[Art Read]

For those of us who build boats by screwing lots of wood together and then shaving, grinding, and sanding away at it 'till it looks like a boat, a handheld power plane, a belt sander and a good quality random orbital sander are the three most often grabbed tools in the shop. During my project, I started with a cheap belt sander that I "inherited" from my Dad, (don't tell him!) a new Black and Decker(?) power plane and a new Porter Cable R/O. Five years, and about twenty or thirty hefty bags full of sawdust later, I'm on my third, (first one I actually BOUGHT) belt sander, second power plane, (the lead ballast killed the first one I think...) and second Porter Cable R/O. (The first still works, but the threads in the pad attachment are stripped out. I just swap parts out of both back and forth to keep at least one going all the time...)

I never bought the cheapest, but I've never bought the most expensive either. If I was going to be building boats for the rest of my life, I'd worry over the selection more. Just trying to get the job done, when something breaks and I need it right now, I buy whatever is in stock and I can afford. I've been dissapointed with some supposedly "quality" stuff and some things I consdidered "disposable" are still going strong. Go figure.

[Art Read]

For those of us who build boats by screwing lots of wood together and then shaving, grinding, and sanding away at it 'till it looks like a boat, a handheld power plane, a belt sander and a good quality random orbital sander are the three most often grabbed tools in the shop. During my project, I started with a cheap belt sander that I "inherited" from my Dad, (don't tell him!) a new Black and Decker(?) power plane and a new Porter Cable R/O. Five years, and about twenty or thirty hefty bags full of sawdust later, I'm on my third, (first one I actually BOUGHT) belt sander, second power plane, (the lead ballast killed the first one I think...) and second Porter Cable R/O. (The first still works, but the threads in the pad attachment are stripped out. I just swap parts out of both back and forth to keep at least one going all the time...)

I never bought the cheapest, but I've never bought the most expensive either. If I was going to be building boats for the rest of my life, I'd worry over the selection more. Just trying to get the job done, when something breaks and I need it right now, I buy whatever is in stock and I can afford. I've been dissapointed with some supposedly "quality" stuff and some things I consdidered "disposable" are still going strong. Go figure.

[gary porter]

Originally posted by Donn:
I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?Donn, with all the above info do you have it figured out yet???? Buy the Makita,,,,or the Bosch. I have a Bosch that I've used for a long time and it works well. The option to direct the output flow is very nice even if you connect a vacuum. I wouldn't have a problem with the Makit either, I know folks who have them and I've used one before on some timber framing work, good machine.
Good Luck ,, lets us know what you buy, if you do.
Gary...

[gary porter]

Originally posted by Donn:
I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?Donn, with all the above info do you have it figured out yet???? Buy the Makita,,,,or the Bosch. I have a Bosch that I've used for a long time and it works well. The option to direct the output flow is very nice even if you connect a vacuum. I wouldn't have a problem with the Makit either, I know folks who have them and I've used one before on some timber framing work, good machine.
Good Luck ,, lets us know what you buy, if you do.
Gary...

[gary porter]

Originally posted by Donn:
I watched holzbt using a Makita handheld planer on plank edges today, and it looks like a useful tool.

Who likes which brands? Coastal Tool lists a $139 Makita as best buy.

Can you effectively plane a surface wider than the cutting width of the planer...ie multiple passes?Donn, with all the above info do you have it figured out yet???? Buy the Makita,,,,or the Bosch. I have a Bosch that I've used for a long time and it works well. The option to direct the output flow is very nice even if you connect a vacuum. I wouldn't have a problem with the Makit either, I know folks who have them and I've used one before on some timber framing work, good machine.
Good Luck ,, lets us know what you buy, if you do.
Gary...

[Donn]

I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.

[Donn]

I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.

[Donn]

I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.

[capt jake]

Yup, you can hook it to a vacuum. Just need the right adapter and lots of flexible hose! smile.gif

[capt jake]

Yup, you can hook it to a vacuum. Just need the right adapter and lots of flexible hose! smile.gif

[capt jake]

Yup, you can hook it to a vacuum. Just need the right adapter and lots of flexible hose! smile.gif

[Sam F]

I've used a Makita 1806B 6 3/4" planer for years. It's a beast but if you've got hundreds of feet of stuff to plane it works very nicely.
On my older model at least dust collection is problematic. The outlet is not shaped correctly for that but I was able to jam a plastic elbow in it to direct most of the chips down to the floor instead of all over the shop.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/1806b.jpg

[Sam F]

I've used a Makita 1806B 6 3/4" planer for years. It's a beast but if you've got hundreds of feet of stuff to plane it works very nicely.
On my older model at least dust collection is problematic. The outlet is not shaped correctly for that but I was able to jam a plastic elbow in it to direct most of the chips down to the floor instead of all over the shop.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/1806b.jpg

[Sam F]

I've used a Makita 1806B 6 3/4" planer for years. It's a beast but if you've got hundreds of feet of stuff to plane it works very nicely.
On my older model at least dust collection is problematic. The outlet is not shaped correctly for that but I was able to jam a plastic elbow in it to direct most of the chips down to the floor instead of all over the shop.
http://www.mytoolstore.com/makita/1806b.jpg

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.Donn, the User's Manual for my Makita 3 1/4" shows a adaptor sold as an accessory. You remove the two screws that holds the chip chute in place remove the chute and replace it with the adaptor.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.Donn, the User's Manual for my Makita 3 1/4" shows a adaptor sold as an accessory. You remove the two screws that holds the chip chute in place remove the chute and replace it with the adaptor.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I haven't decided yet. Next time I go to Roger's shop, I'm gonna try his Makita, and see if I can hook it to a vacuum.Donn, the User's Manual for my Makita 3 1/4" shows a adaptor sold as an accessory. You remove the two screws that holds the chip chute in place remove the chute and replace it with the adaptor.

[Donn]

I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?

[Donn]

I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?

[Donn]

I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?

[capt jake]

I found an adapter amongst all of my 'stuff' which fit into the hole perfect. It connects to the smaller hose (1 1/4??) and then I adapt it up to the larger. smile.gif Worked fine (if you like another tether to trip over). smile.gif smile.gif

[capt jake]

I found an adapter amongst all of my 'stuff' which fit into the hole perfect. It connects to the smaller hose (1 1/4??) and then I adapt it up to the larger. smile.gif Worked fine (if you like another tether to trip over). smile.gif smile.gif

[capt jake]

I found an adapter amongst all of my 'stuff' which fit into the hole perfect. It connects to the smaller hose (1 1/4??) and then I adapt it up to the larger. smile.gif Worked fine (if you like another tether to trip over). smile.gif smile.gif

[John Blazy]

Here's a quick tip on sharpening powerplane knives (steel): Since I dull the knives quickly in my cheap sears from planing plywood as well as my own glue lines, and I hate the time of removing the knives, I hollow grind and sharpen the knives while still in the cutterhead. With the plane belly up in a bench vise, wedge the cutterhead immobile and into a position where the knife edge is able to be hollow ground from a hand held 4 or 5" right angle grinder. Run the grinder across the whole width of the blade with a full body rocking motion, holding the grinder rigid at the correct angle. If you are steady enough, you'll hit the shoulder first and then touch the leading edge enough to remove the dull area but not too much. Then follow up with a small diamond hone on both sides of the blade. I know you are all thinking that I remove too much metal and have to reset the knife height, but I find that I have to do that about every third time sharpening. Even then its easier than removing the knives completely. Been doing this for years and I always have sharp knives to work with. The joy is in that wonderful invention called a diamond pocket hone.

[John Blazy]

Here's a quick tip on sharpening powerplane knives (steel): Since I dull the knives quickly in my cheap sears from planing plywood as well as my own glue lines, and I hate the time of removing the knives, I hollow grind and sharpen the knives while still in the cutterhead. With the plane belly up in a bench vise, wedge the cutterhead immobile and into a position where the knife edge is able to be hollow ground from a hand held 4 or 5" right angle grinder. Run the grinder across the whole width of the blade with a full body rocking motion, holding the grinder rigid at the correct angle. If you are steady enough, you'll hit the shoulder first and then touch the leading edge enough to remove the dull area but not too much. Then follow up with a small diamond hone on both sides of the blade. I know you are all thinking that I remove too much metal and have to reset the knife height, but I find that I have to do that about every third time sharpening. Even then its easier than removing the knives completely. Been doing this for years and I always have sharp knives to work with. The joy is in that wonderful invention called a diamond pocket hone.

[John Blazy]

Here's a quick tip on sharpening powerplane knives (steel): Since I dull the knives quickly in my cheap sears from planing plywood as well as my own glue lines, and I hate the time of removing the knives, I hollow grind and sharpen the knives while still in the cutterhead. With the plane belly up in a bench vise, wedge the cutterhead immobile and into a position where the knife edge is able to be hollow ground from a hand held 4 or 5" right angle grinder. Run the grinder across the whole width of the blade with a full body rocking motion, holding the grinder rigid at the correct angle. If you are steady enough, you'll hit the shoulder first and then touch the leading edge enough to remove the dull area but not too much. Then follow up with a small diamond hone on both sides of the blade. I know you are all thinking that I remove too much metal and have to reset the knife height, but I find that I have to do that about every third time sharpening. Even then its easier than removing the knives completely. Been doing this for years and I always have sharp knives to work with. The joy is in that wonderful invention called a diamond pocket hone.

[Wiley Baggins]

I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.

[Wiley Baggins]

I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.

[Wiley Baggins]

I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?I'll take a look at the manual again to see if it can be flipped around.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?I'll take a look at the manual again to see if it can be flipped around.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Donn:
I downloaded the manual, Jim, and the picture in the PDF file stinks, but it looks like it's a right-angle adaptor that points down. That would make it difficult to attach a hose to, because the hose would then catch on the workpiece, if it's wider than the tool...no?I'll take a look at the manual again to see if it can be flipped around.

[Jim H]

Donn, I looked a little more closely at the manual, the cheap B(&^%%%$'s used the manual for the older model 1900 which has a different chip chute. My 1900B has one screw to hold the chip chute so I beleive that if they do offer the attachment (which does not claim to be a hose adaptor) it'll be a halfass arrangemnt.

[Jim H]

Donn, I looked a little more closely at the manual, the cheap B(&^%%%$'s used the manual for the older model 1900 which has a different chip chute. My 1900B has one screw to hold the chip chute so I beleive that if they do offer the attachment (which does not claim to be a hose adaptor) it'll be a halfass arrangemnt.

[Jim H]

Donn, I looked a little more closely at the manual, the cheap B(&^%%%$'s used the manual for the older model 1900 which has a different chip chute. My 1900B has one screw to hold the chip chute so I beleive that if they do offer the attachment (which does not claim to be a hose adaptor) it'll be a halfass arrangemnt.

[Donn]

Originally posted by Wiley Baggins:
I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.ROFLMAO! Didn't see this last night (after my bedtime).

Jim...Thanks for checking. No decision yet.

[Donn]

Originally posted by Wiley Baggins:
I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.ROFLMAO! Didn't see this last night (after my bedtime).

Jim...Thanks for checking. No decision yet.

[Donn]

Originally posted by Wiley Baggins:
I've got a Bosch 3296 that I've been quite happy with. It's light, and you can alternate the discharge side with a simple twist. As an added bonus, the cord is easily replaced after you plane it, and the brief light show is its own reward.ROFLMAO! Didn't see this last night (after my bedtime).

Jim...Thanks for checking. No decision yet.

[Bill Perkins]

I'll try that John , though I have no grinder .I've wanted to get a diamond hone for my carbide router bits anyway .

[Bill Perkins]

I'll try that John , though I have no grinder .I've wanted to get a diamond hone for my carbide router bits anyway .

[Bill Perkins]

I'll try that John , though I have no grinder .I've wanted to get a diamond hone for my carbide router bits anyway .

[capt jake]

Kind of along John Blazy's line; I hone my knives onthe jointer with this process:
This is taken directly from what the owners manual circa 1945 recommends...with my own editing. smile.gif

Adjust the table to where the outfeed table is nearly flush with the knives. Now take it down just ever so slightly. Next take a honing stone and carefully run it accross the knives (mind you, this is while running the machine) to hone the edge.
This is a mind boggling experience the first time!!!! smile.gif But your know what??? It works great!!!
I condensed the directions and took it from memory, but I have the manual in the shop, and that is what it said to do! smile.gif

Works awesome; though I haven't the gumption to try it on the hand held planer .....yet! smile.gif

[capt jake]

Kind of along John Blazy's line; I hone my knives onthe jointer with this process:
This is taken directly from what the owners manual circa 1945 recommends...with my own editing. smile.gif

Adjust the table to where the outfeed table is nearly flush with the knives. Now take it down just ever so slightly. Next take a honing stone and carefully run it accross the knives (mind you, this is while running the machine) to hone the edge.
This is a mind boggling experience the first time!!!! smile.gif But your know what??? It works great!!!
I condensed the directions and took it from memory, but I have the manual in the shop, and that is what it said to do! smile.gif

Works awesome; though I haven't the gumption to try it on the hand held planer .....yet! smile.gif

[capt jake]

Kind of along John Blazy's line; I hone my knives onthe jointer with this process:
This is taken directly from what the owners manual circa 1945 recommends...with my own editing. smile.gif

Adjust the table to where the outfeed table is nearly flush with the knives. Now take it down just ever so slightly. Next take a honing stone and carefully run it accross the knives (mind you, this is while running the machine) to hone the edge.
This is a mind boggling experience the first time!!!! smile.gif But your know what??? It works great!!!
I condensed the directions and took it from memory, but I have the manual in the shop, and that is what it said to do! smile.gif

Works awesome; though I haven't the gumption to try it on the hand held planer .....yet! smile.gif

[seafox]

I have several planes including both the bog and little planes that sears sells they both use the same width blade (think 3 and 3/4) I tried the hatachi in 87 and did not like it because of lack of room between handle and motor housing. loved the gree color however. so when harbor fraight had one in the gree I cvought it . it looks just like the makita works fine and its amazing how fast it take material off you think a 32nd of an inch isn't much but you can make 30 passes in half a minute and take more off than you planed if not carefull
jeffery

[seafox]

I have several planes including both the bog and little planes that sears sells they both use the same width blade (think 3 and 3/4) I tried the hatachi in 87 and did not like it because of lack of room between handle and motor housing. loved the gree color however. so when harbor fraight had one in the gree I cvought it . it looks just like the makita works fine and its amazing how fast it take material off you think a 32nd of an inch isn't much but you can make 30 passes in half a minute and take more off than you planed if not carefull
jeffery

[seafox]

I have several planes including both the bog and little planes that sears sells they both use the same width blade (think 3 and 3/4) I tried the hatachi in 87 and did not like it because of lack of room between handle and motor housing. loved the gree color however. so when harbor fraight had one in the gree I cvought it . it looks just like the makita works fine and its amazing how fast it take material off you think a 32nd of an inch isn't much but you can make 30 passes in half a minute and take more off than you planed if not carefull
jeffery

[John Blazy]

Your scaring me Capt! I thought I was daring and encouraging life on the edge (my thread on V-bottomed kerfing with a custom ground sawblade-while running a while back comes to mind), but that is too cool. Men were men in '45. No OSHA proof reading of instruction manuals in those days eh?
What you are describing is called "jointing" the knives. Dunno when I heard that term, but it refers to truing the cutting edge concentric to the outside cutting radii perfectly on any radial cutting bit/blade/cutterhead. The only problem is that is only the first step. Then you must back-grind / hone clearance for the leading edge so as not to burn your way through the cut if you've created 'flats' on the edge. Great method though for truing concentric though! Faster than setting the knives. If it works, go for it - I'll definitely try it myself.

[John Blazy]

Your scaring me Capt! I thought I was daring and encouraging life on the edge (my thread on V-bottomed kerfing with a custom ground sawblade-while running a while back comes to mind), but that is too cool. Men were men in '45. No OSHA proof reading of instruction manuals in those days eh?
What you are describing is called "jointing" the knives. Dunno when I heard that term, but it refers to truing the cutting edge concentric to the outside cutting radii perfectly on any radial cutting bit/blade/cutterhead. The only problem is that is only the first step. Then you must back-grind / hone clearance for the leading edge so as not to burn your way through the cut if you've created 'flats' on the edge. Great method though for truing concentric though! Faster than setting the knives. If it works, go for it - I'll definitely try it myself.

[John Blazy]

Your scaring me Capt! I thought I was daring and encouraging life on the edge (my thread on V-bottomed kerfing with a custom ground sawblade-while running a while back comes to mind), but that is too cool. Men were men in '45. No OSHA proof reading of instruction manuals in those days eh?
What you are describing is called "jointing" the knives. Dunno when I heard that term, but it refers to truing the cutting edge concentric to the outside cutting radii perfectly on any radial cutting bit/blade/cutterhead. The only problem is that is only the first step. Then you must back-grind / hone clearance for the leading edge so as not to burn your way through the cut if you've created 'flats' on the edge. Great method though for truing concentric though! Faster than setting the knives. If it works, go for it - I'll definitely try it myself.

[capt jake]

John you are right. I think they did call it jointing the knives. It is a scary process, but it works fantastic. I just moved and kind remember where that manual is off hand. Old manuals make for some interesting reading sometimes. smile.gif

[capt jake]

John you are right. I think they did call it jointing the knives. It is a scary process, but it works fantastic. I just moved and kind remember where that manual is off hand. Old manuals make for some interesting reading sometimes. smile.gif

[capt jake]

John you are right. I think they did call it jointing the knives. It is a scary process, but it works fantastic. I just moved and kind remember where that manual is off hand. Old manuals make for some interesting reading sometimes. smile.gif

[Hans Lassen]

Donn, you should really try a hand plane... What I like so much about working in my shop is the feel and smell of the wood (there's less room for expensive mistakes with a hand plane, too), and I have over the years done away with most of the power tools I once owned. The only two I still use are an electric drill and a revolving sander (?); I never owned a power plane (tried one out once because I thought I could save time - and came away with what Moitessier used to say about sailing: 'I am here to enjoy, and not to be over with it quickly'), and got rid of my compass saw (the one where the saw blade goes up and down like a sewing machine?). This way I can listen to music, or football commentary on the radio, or enjoy the quiet smile.gif .
OK, yes: every now and then I visit a friend who is a joiner and work on his band saw. No need to buy one, hence :D .
I'm saving to be able to eventually buy one of those shipwright's planes which plane concave curves - very nifty, but awfully expensive :( .
Back to the shop for now, paying heed to Oyster's motto. A new rudder for a friend's boat is waiting.
Regards from the Baltic
Hans

[Hans Lassen]

Donn, you should really try a hand plane... What I like so much about working in my shop is the feel and smell of the wood (there's less room for expensive mistakes with a hand plane, too), and I have over the years done away with most of the power tools I once owned. The only two I still use are an electric drill and a revolving sander (?); I never owned a power plane (tried one out once because I thought I could save time - and came away with what Moitessier used to say about sailing: 'I am here to enjoy, and not to be over with it quickly'), and got rid of my compass saw (the one where the saw blade goes up and down like a sewing machine?). This way I can listen to music, or football commentary on the radio, or enjoy the quiet smile.gif .
OK, yes: every now and then I visit a friend who is a joiner and work on his band saw. No need to buy one, hence :D .
I'm saving to be able to eventually buy one of those shipwright's planes which plane concave curves - very nifty, but awfully expensive :( .
Back to the shop for now, paying heed to Oyster's motto. A new rudder for a friend's boat is waiting.
Regards from the Baltic
Hans

[Hans Lassen]

Donn, you should really try a hand plane... What I like so much about working in my shop is the feel and smell of the wood (there's less room for expensive mistakes with a hand plane, too), and I have over the years done away with most of the power tools I once owned. The only two I still use are an electric drill and a revolving sander (?); I never owned a power plane (tried one out once because I thought I could save time - and came away with what Moitessier used to say about sailing: 'I am here to enjoy, and not to be over with it quickly'), and got rid of my compass saw (the one where the saw blade goes up and down like a sewing machine?). This way I can listen to music, or football commentary on the radio, or enjoy the quiet smile.gif .
OK, yes: every now and then I visit a friend who is a joiner and work on his band saw. No need to buy one, hence :D .
I'm saving to be able to eventually buy one of those shipwright's planes which plane concave curves - very nifty, but awfully expensive :( .
Back to the shop for now, paying heed to Oyster's motto. A new rudder for a friend's boat is waiting.
Regards from the Baltic
Hans

[GROOVY]

I just bought a bosch it came with an adjustable fence......................like it

[GROOVY]

I just bought a bosch it came with an adjustable fence......................like it

[GROOVY]

I just bought a bosch it came with an adjustable fence......................like it

[Scott Rosen]

Donn,

Get yourself a couple or three good hand planes. You won't regret it. Aside from the pure pleasure of using them, they have the advantage of leaving a perfectly smooth surface that is ready to finish without any further sanding or scraping. The power planes will leave "mill marks" in the wood which will require further treatment.

[Scott Rosen]

Donn,

Get yourself a couple or three good hand planes. You won't regret it. Aside from the pure pleasure of using them, they have the advantage of leaving a perfectly smooth surface that is ready to finish without any further sanding or scraping. The power planes will leave "mill marks" in the wood which will require further treatment.

[Scott Rosen]

Donn,

Get yourself a couple or three good hand planes. You won't regret it. Aside from the pure pleasure of using them, they have the advantage of leaving a perfectly smooth surface that is ready to finish without any further sanding or scraping. The power planes will leave "mill marks" in the wood which will require further treatment.

[Jim H]

Hmmm? Curious, my Makita doesn't leave any sort of marks, what kind of power plane do you own Scott?

[Jim H]

Hmmm? Curious, my Makita doesn't leave any sort of marks, what kind of power plane do you own Scott?

[Jim H]

Hmmm? Curious, my Makita doesn't leave any sort of marks, what kind of power plane do you own Scott?

[John Blazy]

That'll be enough of that Jim. :D

[John Blazy]

That'll be enough of that Jim. :D

[John Blazy]

That'll be enough of that Jim. :D

[Scott Rosen]

I'm holding an oak threshold that I made a couple of months ago but haven't installed. The top was surfaced with a Makita. I figured I could just apply the finish because it looked clean and smooth. After the second coat of PU, I could see the tiny mill marks, depending on the angle of the light. Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm holding an oak threshold that I made a couple of months ago but haven't installed. The top was surfaced with a Makita. I figured I could just apply the finish because it looked clean and smooth. After the second coat of PU, I could see the tiny mill marks, depending on the angle of the light. Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm holding an oak threshold that I made a couple of months ago but haven't installed. The top was surfaced with a Makita. I figured I could just apply the finish because it looked clean and smooth. After the second coat of PU, I could see the tiny mill marks, depending on the angle of the light. Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm not saying he shouldn't get a hand-held power planer. I'm just saying he should get some hand planes, too. Maybe I'm just stating the obvious: different tools for different jobs.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm not saying he shouldn't get a hand-held power planer. I'm just saying he should get some hand planes, too. Maybe I'm just stating the obvious: different tools for different jobs.

[Scott Rosen]

I'm not saying he shouldn't get a hand-held power planer. I'm just saying he should get some hand planes, too. Maybe I'm just stating the obvious: different tools for different jobs.

[Donn]

I looked at the planes in the Garret Wade catalog, and was astonished by the prices. My primary use of a power plane will be surfacing salvaged dimensional lumber, for use in framing in the boathouse. Fine finish isn't a requirement there, just looking for a faster way to take warehouse crud off, than 40 grit disks on the ROS.

[Donn]

I looked at the planes in the Garret Wade catalog, and was astonished by the prices. My primary use of a power plane will be surfacing salvaged dimensional lumber, for use in framing in the boathouse. Fine finish isn't a requirement there, just looking for a faster way to take warehouse crud off, than 40 grit disks on the ROS.

[Donn]

I looked at the planes in the Garret Wade catalog, and was astonished by the prices. My primary use of a power plane will be surfacing salvaged dimensional lumber, for use in framing in the boathouse. Fine finish isn't a requirement there, just looking for a faster way to take warehouse crud off, than 40 grit disks on the ROS.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by John Blazy:
That'll be enough of that Jim. :D Now John, That was an honest question, not a dig at Scott. smile.gif

[Jim H]

Originally posted by John Blazy:
That'll be enough of that Jim. :D Now John, That was an honest question, not a dig at Scott. smile.gif

[Jim H]

Originally posted by John Blazy:
That'll be enough of that Jim. :D Now John, That was an honest question, not a dig at Scott. smile.gif

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.I have used my Makita on everything from purple heart to sugar pine and it seemed that the only marks it left were from my poor planing skill. (and here I thought it would make up for my lack of skill ;) ). I always sand before finishing, usually down to 220 grit, so I haven't noticed any marks. I just use it to get close to where I want to get and sand the rest of the way. I will say though, that since WB published the article on cabinet scrapers I've been itching to try one.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.I have used my Makita on everything from purple heart to sugar pine and it seemed that the only marks it left were from my poor planing skill. (and here I thought it would make up for my lack of skill ;) ). I always sand before finishing, usually down to 220 grit, so I haven't noticed any marks. I just use it to get close to where I want to get and sand the rest of the way. I will say though, that since WB published the article on cabinet scrapers I've been itching to try one.

[Jim H]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Maybe you wouldn't have noticed them, but I did. Or maybe you're better at using the tool.

If I were using a portable power plane to surface a large area that was going to get a nice finish, I would follow it up with a hand plane, scraper or sanding.I have used my Makita on everything from purple heart to sugar pine and it seemed that the only marks it left were from my poor planing skill. (and here I thought it would make up for my lack of skill ;) ). I always sand before finishing, usually down to 220 grit, so I haven't noticed any marks. I just use it to get close to where I want to get and sand the rest of the way. I will say though, that since WB published the article on cabinet scrapers I've been itching to try one.

[Billy Bones]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p4beab4a99a3d707122ff4751b3875bdb/fdc09490.jpg

[Billy Bones]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p4beab4a99a3d707122ff4751b3875bdb/fdc09490.jpg

[Billy Bones]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p4beab4a99a3d707122ff4751b3875bdb/fdc09490.jpg

[Donn]

Wot's dat? Planing a bevel on a plank?

[Donn]

Wot's dat? Planing a bevel on a plank?

[Donn]

Wot's dat? Planing a bevel on a plank?

[Billy Bones]

Yup.

Here's more. (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004716)

[Billy Bones]

Yup.

Here's more. (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004716)

[Billy Bones]

Yup.

Here's more. (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=004716)

[Donn]

I like it.

[Donn]

I like it.

[Donn]

I like it.

[NormMessinger]

Hang around here and a guy is bound to learn atleast one thing new every day. Thanks for that Billy. Not that I'm ever goint to build another boat.... I've applied that idea to a block plane but it would never have occured to me to do it with a power planer.

[NormMessinger]

Hang around here and a guy is bound to learn atleast one thing new every day. Thanks for that Billy. Not that I'm ever goint to build another boat.... I've applied that idea to a block plane but it would never have occured to me to do it with a power planer.

[NormMessinger]

Hang around here and a guy is bound to learn atleast one thing new every day. Thanks for that Billy. Not that I'm ever goint to build another boat.... I've applied that idea to a block plane but it would never have occured to me to do it with a power planer.