Attention handtool users: The Toolchest

[Meerkat]

Ok, I live in a 10x16 room. That doesn't leave a whole lot of room for almost anything you can name. I want to create a small toolchest that can stow under my bed when not in use and roll out to the back patio to do small woodwork projects. Ideas I have in mind are basically small dovetail boxes with lids and elaborations on that, such as jewel boxes (mini-chest of drawers sort of idea).

I think the toolchest can't be any more than 12"x24"x36" (H,W,D), including any wheels or casters. That's 6 cubic feet of space, outside diminsion.

I don't want any power tools, but I don't want to get masochistic about it either. I'm thinking that making room for something like a Fien (sp?) Multitool makes sense, but that's about it, unless someone can make an irrefutable case for ONE more power tool.

Beyond that, I own a random assortment of screwdrivers, a couple of chisels (needing maintainence), a small plane (#6?) also needing refurishment, a brace (no bits), a coping saw, a box cutter and a few other miscellaneous odds and ends. Beyond those, it's a blank slate.

I know I need sharpening tools, one or more saws (leaning towards the japanese folding types), more/better chisels, square, protractor, etc, planes, ... Those are the things, I my ignorance, I think I'll find useful, but I don't really know. I'm ignorant of woodworking.

So, have at it! What goes into this little toolchest? Just the essentials. Cost is an issue, but buying cheap and replacing often isn't being cost consious either.

I can hardly wait to hear your ideas!

[Meerkat]

Ok, I live in a 10x16 room. That doesn't leave a whole lot of room for almost anything you can name. I want to create a small toolchest that can stow under my bed when not in use and roll out to the back patio to do small woodwork projects. Ideas I have in mind are basically small dovetail boxes with lids and elaborations on that, such as jewel boxes (mini-chest of drawers sort of idea).

I think the toolchest can't be any more than 12"x24"x36" (H,W,D), including any wheels or casters. That's 6 cubic feet of space, outside diminsion.

I don't want any power tools, but I don't want to get masochistic about it either. I'm thinking that making room for something like a Fien (sp?) Multitool makes sense, but that's about it, unless someone can make an irrefutable case for ONE more power tool.

Beyond that, I own a random assortment of screwdrivers, a couple of chisels (needing maintainence), a small plane (#6?) also needing refurishment, a brace (no bits), a coping saw, a box cutter and a few other miscellaneous odds and ends. Beyond those, it's a blank slate.

I know I need sharpening tools, one or more saws (leaning towards the japanese folding types), more/better chisels, square, protractor, etc, planes, ... Those are the things, I my ignorance, I think I'll find useful, but I don't really know. I'm ignorant of woodworking.

So, have at it! What goes into this little toolchest? Just the essentials. Cost is an issue, but buying cheap and replacing often isn't being cost consious either.

I can hardly wait to hear your ideas!

[Meerkat]

Ok, I live in a 10x16 room. That doesn't leave a whole lot of room for almost anything you can name. I want to create a small toolchest that can stow under my bed when not in use and roll out to the back patio to do small woodwork projects. Ideas I have in mind are basically small dovetail boxes with lids and elaborations on that, such as jewel boxes (mini-chest of drawers sort of idea).

I think the toolchest can't be any more than 12"x24"x36" (H,W,D), including any wheels or casters. That's 6 cubic feet of space, outside diminsion.

I don't want any power tools, but I don't want to get masochistic about it either. I'm thinking that making room for something like a Fien (sp?) Multitool makes sense, but that's about it, unless someone can make an irrefutable case for ONE more power tool.

Beyond that, I own a random assortment of screwdrivers, a couple of chisels (needing maintainence), a small plane (#6?) also needing refurishment, a brace (no bits), a coping saw, a box cutter and a few other miscellaneous odds and ends. Beyond those, it's a blank slate.

I know I need sharpening tools, one or more saws (leaning towards the japanese folding types), more/better chisels, square, protractor, etc, planes, ... Those are the things, I my ignorance, I think I'll find useful, but I don't really know. I'm ignorant of woodworking.

So, have at it! What goes into this little toolchest? Just the essentials. Cost is an issue, but buying cheap and replacing often isn't being cost consious either.

I can hardly wait to hear your ideas!

[Rick Tyler]

Low-angle block plane (like the Stanley 60-1/2)

Dovetail saw

Small hammer (8-10 oz)

Try square (6-inch), the cheap Stanley with the wooden handle and brass surface will save you a bunch and mine is still square after 15 years

A few small clamps -- for boxes you won't need anything bigger than a 12 inch bar clamp. These may take much of your room.

I'd get a 12-volt cordless driver drill, even if I had to keep it in my sock drawer. You can get an egg beater hand drill, but it's not that much smaller, and it is a lot less versatile.

A small box of bits

Sanding block

Steel ruler -- 12 or 18 inch

Bevel gauge

About four good wood chisels (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 inch)

One rectangular and one curved cabinet scraper

One or two carving knives if you plan to carve

A small vise you can clamp or screw to a board, which will be your workbench.

Scratch awl

Utility knife

4-in-1 rasp

A water stone, medium on one side and fine on the other

You want a photo of my tool rack? smile.gif

[ 11-27-2005, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: Rick Tyler ]

[Rick Tyler]

Low-angle block plane (like the Stanley 60-1/2)

Dovetail saw

Small hammer (8-10 oz)

Try square (6-inch), the cheap Stanley with the wooden handle and brass surface will save you a bunch and mine is still square after 15 years

A few small clamps -- for boxes you won't need anything bigger than a 12 inch bar clamp. These may take much of your room.

I'd get a 12-volt cordless driver drill, even if I had to keep it in my sock drawer. You can get an egg beater hand drill, but it's not that much smaller, and it is a lot less versatile.

A small box of bits

Sanding block

Steel ruler -- 12 or 18 inch

Bevel gauge

About four good wood chisels (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 inch)

One rectangular and one curved cabinet scraper

One or two carving knives if you plan to carve

A small vise you can clamp or screw to a board, which will be your workbench.

Scratch awl

Utility knife

4-in-1 rasp

A water stone, medium on one side and fine on the other

You want a photo of my tool rack? smile.gif

[ 11-27-2005, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: Rick Tyler ]

[Rick Tyler]

Low-angle block plane (like the Stanley 60-1/2)

Dovetail saw

Small hammer (8-10 oz)

Try square (6-inch), the cheap Stanley with the wooden handle and brass surface will save you a bunch and mine is still square after 15 years

A few small clamps -- for boxes you won't need anything bigger than a 12 inch bar clamp. These may take much of your room.

I'd get a 12-volt cordless driver drill, even if I had to keep it in my sock drawer. You can get an egg beater hand drill, but it's not that much smaller, and it is a lot less versatile.

A small box of bits

Sanding block

Steel ruler -- 12 or 18 inch

Bevel gauge

About four good wood chisels (1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4 inch)

One rectangular and one curved cabinet scraper

One or two carving knives if you plan to carve

A small vise you can clamp or screw to a board, which will be your workbench.

Scratch awl

Utility knife

4-in-1 rasp

A water stone, medium on one side and fine on the other

You want a photo of my tool rack? smile.gif

[ 11-27-2005, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: Rick Tyler ]

[StevenBauer]

For your sharpening needs they make these little credit card sized diamond hones. About $10-$12 each you could get a set of med, fine and extra fine for about $35 and sharpen any small tool to a razor edge in no time. I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif And, best for you, they take up almost no room. :D
Also good would be a small (6") combination square. very handy for small work.
Steven

[StevenBauer]

For your sharpening needs they make these little credit card sized diamond hones. About $10-$12 each you could get a set of med, fine and extra fine for about $35 and sharpen any small tool to a razor edge in no time. I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif And, best for you, they take up almost no room. :D
Also good would be a small (6") combination square. very handy for small work.
Steven

[StevenBauer]

For your sharpening needs they make these little credit card sized diamond hones. About $10-$12 each you could get a set of med, fine and extra fine for about $35 and sharpen any small tool to a razor edge in no time. I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif And, best for you, they take up almost no room. :D
Also good would be a small (6") combination square. very handy for small work.
Steven

[Paul Girouard]

Here's a start http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/handtools.jpg

Ok kick out the table saw :( :( , couldn't ya just throw the mattress on it at night , multi use :D The saw /bed . I can see it now a big hit at all the fine furinture shops :rolleyes:

[Paul Girouard]

Here's a start http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/handtools.jpg

Ok kick out the table saw :( :( , couldn't ya just throw the mattress on it at night , multi use :D The saw /bed . I can see it now a big hit at all the fine furinture shops :rolleyes:

[Paul Girouard]

Here's a start http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/handtools.jpg

Ok kick out the table saw :( :( , couldn't ya just throw the mattress on it at night , multi use :D The saw /bed . I can see it now a big hit at all the fine furinture shops :rolleyes:

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by StevenBauer:
[QB I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif

Steve I worked on a job site once doing the cabs , when the carpenter's chisels got" dull" the General went to the lumber yard for a new "SHARP ONE " I kid you not , LOL. Paul

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by StevenBauer:
[QB I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif

Steve I worked on a job site once doing the cabs , when the carpenter's chisels got" dull" the General went to the lumber yard for a new "SHARP ONE " I kid you not , LOL. Paul

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by StevenBauer:
[QB I take my three with me to jobsites, sometimes other carpenters see me using them and next thing you know I've sharpened their chisels and blockplanes for them, too. smile.gif

Steve I worked on a job site once doing the cabs , when the carpenter's chisels got" dull" the General went to the lumber yard for a new "SHARP ONE " I kid you not , LOL. Paul

[Ron Williamson]

Paul
That's how I've gotten all of my jobsite chisels.
"This ones no good,it's dull."
"Too bad,what are you going to do with it?"
"Toss it,why?
"Yaknow maybe for opening paint cans and such." :rolleyes:
R
Edited to add,
The japanese style saw is a good idea(especially a folder),but made sure the blade is replaceable if you get a quality one,as a bunch of the cost is the handle.

[ 11-27-2005, 08:18 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

Paul
That's how I've gotten all of my jobsite chisels.
"This ones no good,it's dull."
"Too bad,what are you going to do with it?"
"Toss it,why?
"Yaknow maybe for opening paint cans and such." :rolleyes:
R
Edited to add,
The japanese style saw is a good idea(especially a folder),but made sure the blade is replaceable if you get a quality one,as a bunch of the cost is the handle.

[ 11-27-2005, 08:18 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

Paul
That's how I've gotten all of my jobsite chisels.
"This ones no good,it's dull."
"Too bad,what are you going to do with it?"
"Toss it,why?
"Yaknow maybe for opening paint cans and such." :rolleyes:
R
Edited to add,
The japanese style saw is a good idea(especially a folder),but made sure the blade is replaceable if you get a quality one,as a bunch of the cost is the handle.

[ 11-27-2005, 08:18 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Lurch]

Have a look at Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp). Quality tools, and you'll pay more for them, but they're worth it.

Don

[Lurch]

Have a look at Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp). Quality tools, and you'll pay more for them, but they're worth it.

Don

[Lurch]

Have a look at Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/home/main.asp). Quality tools, and you'll pay more for them, but they're worth it.

Don

[Meerkat]

Yup, I'm hip to Lee Valley. I'm saving up for a catalog! ;)

[Meerkat]

Yup, I'm hip to Lee Valley. I'm saving up for a catalog! ;)

[Meerkat]

Yup, I'm hip to Lee Valley. I'm saving up for a catalog! ;)

[Ron Williamson]

Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
R

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by Ron Williamson:
Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
RIt's that first order I'm saving up for! They'll send the catalog for free, just for asking. The trouble is the lust it engenders.... :D

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by Ron Williamson:
Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
RIt's that first order I'm saving up for! They'll send the catalog for free, just for asking. The trouble is the lust it engenders.... :D

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by Ron Williamson:
Don't bother saving up.
They'll send you one free,if you ask when you place your first order.
RIt's that first order I'm saving up for! They'll send the catalog for free, just for asking. The trouble is the lust it engenders.... :D

[Paul Girouard]

Meer Hit the pawn / hock shops and thrift stores first. You'll find some great stuff it might need cleaned up / tuned / sharpened etc. But that's half the fun to fix stuff up smile.gif And a huge $ savings.

My jack plane few other tools came from such places , Good luck , Paul

[ 11-27-2005, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Meer Hit the pawn / hock shops and thrift stores first. You'll find some great stuff it might need cleaned up / tuned / sharpened etc. But that's half the fun to fix stuff up smile.gif And a huge $ savings.

My jack plane few other tools came from such places , Good luck , Paul

[ 11-27-2005, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Paul Girouard]

Meer Hit the pawn / hock shops and thrift stores first. You'll find some great stuff it might need cleaned up / tuned / sharpened etc. But that's half the fun to fix stuff up smile.gif And a huge $ savings.

My jack plane few other tools came from such places , Good luck , Paul

[ 11-27-2005, 06:52 PM: Message edited by: Paul Girouard ]

[Bruce Hooke]

I'm just going to look at one issue...drilling holes:

Cordless drills are really nice, but they are also expensive, mostly because of the batteries. A variable speed corded drill will do just about everything a cordless drill will, as long as you have an outlet handy. OK, most cordless drills I've seen have a few more features that are mostly relevant to driving drywall screws and similar tasks, but these features are not necessary for fine woodworking in my experience.

A small egg-beater style drill will likely cost more than an electric drill if both are bought new. However, if you can find a decent used tool dealer you should be able to pick up a good egg-beater drill relatively cheaply. Yes, an egg-beater drill is slower and more work than an electric drill, but the whole premise here is to focus on hand tools, and for really small holes a hand tool can be a better way to go. If you need to drill big holes then an egg-beater drill won't cut it. If you plan to go the hand-tool route than you are probably looking at a brace and bits, which again can be picked up used, but the price for a good set may well be similar it price to a basic electric drill and some decent drill bits.

One other note -- for drilling really clean, smooth holes in the 1/4" diameter and up range (and especially for the 1/2" diameter and up range), Forstner style bits are really nice, but they will not likely work well in any hand drill I've come across. They should work in an electric drill, but when it comes right down to it they are best in a drill press.

So, in the end, for the kinds of projects it sounds like you have in mind, I would probably go with an egg-beater drill and a basic set of twist bits.

If you go shopping for a used egg-beater drill look for a largish one with at least a 1/4" chuck, and with two small gears, one at the top of the big gear and one at the bottom. The kind with just one small gear are cheap and don't work well in my experience.

[Bruce Hooke]

I'm just going to look at one issue...drilling holes:

Cordless drills are really nice, but they are also expensive, mostly because of the batteries. A variable speed corded drill will do just about everything a cordless drill will, as long as you have an outlet handy. OK, most cordless drills I've seen have a few more features that are mostly relevant to driving drywall screws and similar tasks, but these features are not necessary for fine woodworking in my experience.

A small egg-beater style drill will likely cost more than an electric drill if both are bought new. However, if you can find a decent used tool dealer you should be able to pick up a good egg-beater drill relatively cheaply. Yes, an egg-beater drill is slower and more work than an electric drill, but the whole premise here is to focus on hand tools, and for really small holes a hand tool can be a better way to go. If you need to drill big holes then an egg-beater drill won't cut it. If you plan to go the hand-tool route than you are probably looking at a brace and bits, which again can be picked up used, but the price for a good set may well be similar it price to a basic electric drill and some decent drill bits.

One other note -- for drilling really clean, smooth holes in the 1/4" diameter and up range (and especially for the 1/2" diameter and up range), Forstner style bits are really nice, but they will not likely work well in any hand drill I've come across. They should work in an electric drill, but when it comes right down to it they are best in a drill press.

So, in the end, for the kinds of projects it sounds like you have in mind, I would probably go with an egg-beater drill and a basic set of twist bits.

If you go shopping for a used egg-beater drill look for a largish one with at least a 1/4" chuck, and with two small gears, one at the top of the big gear and one at the bottom. The kind with just one small gear are cheap and don't work well in my experience.

[Bruce Hooke]

I'm just going to look at one issue...drilling holes:

Cordless drills are really nice, but they are also expensive, mostly because of the batteries. A variable speed corded drill will do just about everything a cordless drill will, as long as you have an outlet handy. OK, most cordless drills I've seen have a few more features that are mostly relevant to driving drywall screws and similar tasks, but these features are not necessary for fine woodworking in my experience.

A small egg-beater style drill will likely cost more than an electric drill if both are bought new. However, if you can find a decent used tool dealer you should be able to pick up a good egg-beater drill relatively cheaply. Yes, an egg-beater drill is slower and more work than an electric drill, but the whole premise here is to focus on hand tools, and for really small holes a hand tool can be a better way to go. If you need to drill big holes then an egg-beater drill won't cut it. If you plan to go the hand-tool route than you are probably looking at a brace and bits, which again can be picked up used, but the price for a good set may well be similar it price to a basic electric drill and some decent drill bits.

One other note -- for drilling really clean, smooth holes in the 1/4" diameter and up range (and especially for the 1/2" diameter and up range), Forstner style bits are really nice, but they will not likely work well in any hand drill I've come across. They should work in an electric drill, but when it comes right down to it they are best in a drill press.

So, in the end, for the kinds of projects it sounds like you have in mind, I would probably go with an egg-beater drill and a basic set of twist bits.

If you go shopping for a used egg-beater drill look for a largish one with at least a 1/4" chuck, and with two small gears, one at the top of the big gear and one at the bottom. The kind with just one small gear are cheap and don't work well in my experience.

[TomF]

Meer,

I'll echo what Paul G and Bruce have said ... get decent, used tools. You'll save huge dollars, and frequently have better tools to use.

A good discussion of a basic set of hand tools is given here (http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/1395/toollist.html), along with a bit of discussion about what to look for.

Cheap planes aren't too thick on the ground where I am, so I'm still in aquisition mode. I've got a couple of wooden planes, which are a bit trickier to set up/use, but were cheap and have good thick cutting irons.

I got three (3) good eggbeater drills off Ebay last month, for $5 plus shipping. Look for Millers Falls or North Bros. brands for eggbeaters. They're surprisingly efficient, as I noted again as I used one while fitting windows all weekend.

Similarly, got 2 Disston saws for $10. Needed to have the rust taken off, the teeth sharpented/set, and the handles cleaned/oiled ...

The blue-handled Marples chisels are OK and not too spendy if you must buy new ... but old Pexto, Ward, Witherby, Ekilstuna or Buck chisels are often on flea-market tables for $3-5 each, and have really good steel.

T.

[TomF]

Meer,

I'll echo what Paul G and Bruce have said ... get decent, used tools. You'll save huge dollars, and frequently have better tools to use.

A good discussion of a basic set of hand tools is given here (http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/1395/toollist.html), along with a bit of discussion about what to look for.

Cheap planes aren't too thick on the ground where I am, so I'm still in aquisition mode. I've got a couple of wooden planes, which are a bit trickier to set up/use, but were cheap and have good thick cutting irons.

I got three (3) good eggbeater drills off Ebay last month, for $5 plus shipping. Look for Millers Falls or North Bros. brands for eggbeaters. They're surprisingly efficient, as I noted again as I used one while fitting windows all weekend.

Similarly, got 2 Disston saws for $10. Needed to have the rust taken off, the teeth sharpented/set, and the handles cleaned/oiled ...

The blue-handled Marples chisels are OK and not too spendy if you must buy new ... but old Pexto, Ward, Witherby, Ekilstuna or Buck chisels are often on flea-market tables for $3-5 each, and have really good steel.

T.

[TomF]

Meer,

I'll echo what Paul G and Bruce have said ... get decent, used tools. You'll save huge dollars, and frequently have better tools to use.

A good discussion of a basic set of hand tools is given here (http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence/1395/toollist.html), along with a bit of discussion about what to look for.

Cheap planes aren't too thick on the ground where I am, so I'm still in aquisition mode. I've got a couple of wooden planes, which are a bit trickier to set up/use, but were cheap and have good thick cutting irons.

I got three (3) good eggbeater drills off Ebay last month, for $5 plus shipping. Look for Millers Falls or North Bros. brands for eggbeaters. They're surprisingly efficient, as I noted again as I used one while fitting windows all weekend.

Similarly, got 2 Disston saws for $10. Needed to have the rust taken off, the teeth sharpented/set, and the handles cleaned/oiled ...

The blue-handled Marples chisels are OK and not too spendy if you must buy new ... but old Pexto, Ward, Witherby, Ekilstuna or Buck chisels are often on flea-market tables for $3-5 each, and have really good steel.

T.

[Bruce Hooke]

While used is, as far as I can tell, the only realistic way to go when it comes to egg-beater drills, for many other tools I think a lot comes down to how much you like shopping for and cleaning up used tools and what sort of value you put on your time. Using chisels as an example: good new chisels are available, on the cost is not too absurd. Good used chisels are also available, and if you take the time to learn what the good brands are and what to look for you can pick up some nice stuff, BUT for that route to be viable you need to be willing to put the time into both learning what to look for and doing the looking. Unless you are lucky enough to live close to a good used tool dealer you also really need to shop for used tools before you have an immediate need for them. Trying to get something quickly on eBay is a good way to get burned by bidding too high to make sure you win.

[Bruce Hooke]

While used is, as far as I can tell, the only realistic way to go when it comes to egg-beater drills, for many other tools I think a lot comes down to how much you like shopping for and cleaning up used tools and what sort of value you put on your time. Using chisels as an example: good new chisels are available, on the cost is not too absurd. Good used chisels are also available, and if you take the time to learn what the good brands are and what to look for you can pick up some nice stuff, BUT for that route to be viable you need to be willing to put the time into both learning what to look for and doing the looking. Unless you are lucky enough to live close to a good used tool dealer you also really need to shop for used tools before you have an immediate need for them. Trying to get something quickly on eBay is a good way to get burned by bidding too high to make sure you win.

[Bruce Hooke]

While used is, as far as I can tell, the only realistic way to go when it comes to egg-beater drills, for many other tools I think a lot comes down to how much you like shopping for and cleaning up used tools and what sort of value you put on your time. Using chisels as an example: good new chisels are available, on the cost is not too absurd. Good used chisels are also available, and if you take the time to learn what the good brands are and what to look for you can pick up some nice stuff, BUT for that route to be viable you need to be willing to put the time into both learning what to look for and doing the looking. Unless you are lucky enough to live close to a good used tool dealer you also really need to shop for used tools before you have an immediate need for them. Trying to get something quickly on eBay is a good way to get burned by bidding too high to make sure you win.

[Paul Scheuer]

Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right). If it's what I think it is, I recently had occasion to discover the merits of FIL's old push drill. At the top of the ladder while hanging gutters, being able to drill pilot holes through the flashing and back flange, with one hand on the work and one hand on the ladder.

[Paul Scheuer]

Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right). If it's what I think it is, I recently had occasion to discover the merits of FIL's old push drill. At the top of the ladder while hanging gutters, being able to drill pilot holes through the flashing and back flange, with one hand on the work and one hand on the ladder.

[Paul Scheuer]

Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right). If it's what I think it is, I recently had occasion to discover the merits of FIL's old push drill. At the top of the ladder while hanging gutters, being able to drill pilot holes through the flashing and back flange, with one hand on the work and one hand on the ladder.

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul Scheuer:
[QB]Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right).

Nope thats a Yankee screw driver. Here's the push drill smile.gif

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Stanleyyankeedrill.jpg

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul Scheuer:
[QB]Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right).

Nope thats a Yankee screw driver. Here's the push drill smile.gif

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Stanleyyankeedrill.jpg

[Paul Girouard]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul Scheuer:
[QB]Is that a cordless drill in Paul G's basic collection ? (fourth from the right).

Nope thats a Yankee screw driver. Here's the push drill smile.gif

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/Stanleyyankeedrill.jpg

[Ellis Rowe]

You can get a push drill chuck that fits in the Yankee screwdriver, and kill two birds.

[Ellis Rowe]

You can get a push drill chuck that fits in the Yankee screwdriver, and kill two birds.

[Ellis Rowe]

You can get a push drill chuck that fits in the Yankee screwdriver, and kill two birds.

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ayup. :D

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ayup. :D

Alan

[Alan D. Hyde]

Ayup. :D

Alan

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, check this out:
http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1IMAGES/1grads/chan/chantoolbx.jpg

Link (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/yeung.html)

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, check this out:
http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1IMAGES/1grads/chan/chantoolbx.jpg

Link (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/yeung.html)

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, check this out:
http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1IMAGES/1grads/chan/chantoolbx.jpg

Link (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/yeung.html)

[TomF]

Garrett, that site is really interesting. Meer, the list of tools they require ... and the additional tools they suggest ... for their students looks like the kind of kit you'd need. The link's here (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/shopinfo/toollist.html).

Note though, that they'll be requiring folks only to bring plane irons, as they'd be making wooden-bodied planes on site. I'd be more inclined for your purposes to simply purchase a good low-angle block plane (they recommend a Stanley 60 1/2), and then a Stanley #4 ... and maybe a Stanley #5. For the small boxes etc. which you say you want to build, you have little use for the bigger planes, but a 3/4" shoulder plane might be a splendid luxury.

As you've already got a backsaw, you could likely get by for your purposes with one or two other handsaws (a 12 point crosscut, and maybe a 7 point rip). And I really would get a vintage eggbeater drill - a Miller's Falls #2 or #5 will be $15 or less on E-bay, and will do all you'd need; for really big holes, invest the same amount in a brace.

[TomF]

Garrett, that site is really interesting. Meer, the list of tools they require ... and the additional tools they suggest ... for their students looks like the kind of kit you'd need. The link's here (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/shopinfo/toollist.html).

Note though, that they'll be requiring folks only to bring plane irons, as they'd be making wooden-bodied planes on site. I'd be more inclined for your purposes to simply purchase a good low-angle block plane (they recommend a Stanley 60 1/2), and then a Stanley #4 ... and maybe a Stanley #5. For the small boxes etc. which you say you want to build, you have little use for the bigger planes, but a 3/4" shoulder plane might be a splendid luxury.

As you've already got a backsaw, you could likely get by for your purposes with one or two other handsaws (a 12 point crosscut, and maybe a 7 point rip). And I really would get a vintage eggbeater drill - a Miller's Falls #2 or #5 will be $15 or less on E-bay, and will do all you'd need; for really big holes, invest the same amount in a brace.

[TomF]

Garrett, that site is really interesting. Meer, the list of tools they require ... and the additional tools they suggest ... for their students looks like the kind of kit you'd need. The link's here (http://www.crfinefurniture.com/1pages/shopinfo/toollist.html).

Note though, that they'll be requiring folks only to bring plane irons, as they'd be making wooden-bodied planes on site. I'd be more inclined for your purposes to simply purchase a good low-angle block plane (they recommend a Stanley 60 1/2), and then a Stanley #4 ... and maybe a Stanley #5. For the small boxes etc. which you say you want to build, you have little use for the bigger planes, but a 3/4" shoulder plane might be a splendid luxury.

As you've already got a backsaw, you could likely get by for your purposes with one or two other handsaws (a 12 point crosscut, and maybe a 7 point rip). And I really would get a vintage eggbeater drill - a Miller's Falls #2 or #5 will be $15 or less on E-bay, and will do all you'd need; for really big holes, invest the same amount in a brace.

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by JTA:

Question: I am more interested in the tool box that you describe. Can any of our knowledgeable friends post pictures and or drawings of nice simple wooden tool chest?

Jack T. AllenQuite on topic! I'd be interested too!

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by JTA:

Question: I am more interested in the tool box that you describe. Can any of our knowledgeable friends post pictures and or drawings of nice simple wooden tool chest?

Jack T. AllenQuite on topic! I'd be interested too!

[Meerkat]

Originally posted by JTA:

Question: I am more interested in the tool box that you describe. Can any of our knowledgeable friends post pictures and or drawings of nice simple wooden tool chest?

Jack T. AllenQuite on topic! I'd be interested too!

[TomF]

Folks other than Meer might find the thread in the bilge called "Cabin Stores" now talks a bit 'bout this.

[TomF]

Folks other than Meer might find the thread in the bilge called "Cabin Stores" now talks a bit 'bout this.

[TomF]

Folks other than Meer might find the thread in the bilge called "Cabin Stores" now talks a bit 'bout this.

[Meerkat]

I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :(

[Meerkat]

I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :(

[Meerkat]

I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :(

[Tom Robb]

Taunton Press, The Tool Box Book by Jim Tolpin, I think.
The only problem after reading it is to chose which one to use as inspiration ;)

[Tom Robb]

Taunton Press, The Tool Box Book by Jim Tolpin, I think.
The only problem after reading it is to chose which one to use as inspiration ;)

[Tom Robb]

Taunton Press, The Tool Box Book by Jim Tolpin, I think.
The only problem after reading it is to chose which one to use as inspiration ;)

[epoxyboy]

And a scraper - google "Linbide". Sooooo much better than sandpaper for removing paint or epoxy goobs, and great for getting into concave curves that your plane doesn't want to know about.

Also a Stanley "Surform" rasp - one of those cheese grater type things. These are fantastic for planing over things you dont want to get your plane near like metal, plastic and that screw that is in the way and refuses to come out. They are a lot lighter that a plane with a similar footprint, and a good for rough fairing curvy things like rudders and center boards. The purists will bleat that these are for people who dont know how to sharpen a plane properly. This is b*llsh*t IMO.

There are that many many screws in my Pathfinder that I couldn't do without a cordless drill. Well I could, but this is supposed to be fun, right!

Pete

[epoxyboy]

And a scraper - google "Linbide". Sooooo much better than sandpaper for removing paint or epoxy goobs, and great for getting into concave curves that your plane doesn't want to know about.

Also a Stanley "Surform" rasp - one of those cheese grater type things. These are fantastic for planing over things you dont want to get your plane near like metal, plastic and that screw that is in the way and refuses to come out. They are a lot lighter that a plane with a similar footprint, and a good for rough fairing curvy things like rudders and center boards. The purists will bleat that these are for people who dont know how to sharpen a plane properly. This is b*llsh*t IMO.

There are that many many screws in my Pathfinder that I couldn't do without a cordless drill. Well I could, but this is supposed to be fun, right!

Pete

[epoxyboy]

And a scraper - google "Linbide". Sooooo much better than sandpaper for removing paint or epoxy goobs, and great for getting into concave curves that your plane doesn't want to know about.

Also a Stanley "Surform" rasp - one of those cheese grater type things. These are fantastic for planing over things you dont want to get your plane near like metal, plastic and that screw that is in the way and refuses to come out. They are a lot lighter that a plane with a similar footprint, and a good for rough fairing curvy things like rudders and center boards. The purists will bleat that these are for people who dont know how to sharpen a plane properly. This is b*llsh*t IMO.

There are that many many screws in my Pathfinder that I couldn't do without a cordless drill. Well I could, but this is supposed to be fun, right!

Pete

[ssor]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :( Meerkat,
When Nancy was doing her chemo she was rather wobbly and and a one percent grade in the parking lot at the supper market brought out the observation , "that's a pretty big hill." Her trips to the mail box were like this, Walk down seven steps to the front door,rest. Walk twenty steps on flat ground to the back of the car, rest against the car. Walk twenty MORE steps to the mail box ,Rest. Repeat the process coming back and collapse into a chair for fifteen or twenty minutes. That was march. In October she convinced me that she was feeling well enough to go sailing sixty miles to Chestertown, we took a week and walked gently around town ate in the resturants and took lots of naps. Nancy was 59 years old at that time and is doing fine now.
Chemo will knock you on your ass but you will get better. The loss of normal taste was Nancy's biggest complaint. and she lived for a couple of months on dark chocolate almond bark and clementine oranges. Remember to be very careful to have something close at hand to grab for support when you get up from sitting and sit for a bit after you have been lying down before standing. The nurses know about all of the meds that help to relieve the worst of the side effects and there are no extra points for trying to tough it out.
Just take one day at a time. I hope that you have someone close by.
Best<
Ross in Bel Air

[ssor]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :( Meerkat,
When Nancy was doing her chemo she was rather wobbly and and a one percent grade in the parking lot at the supper market brought out the observation , "that's a pretty big hill." Her trips to the mail box were like this, Walk down seven steps to the front door,rest. Walk twenty steps on flat ground to the back of the car, rest against the car. Walk twenty MORE steps to the mail box ,Rest. Repeat the process coming back and collapse into a chair for fifteen or twenty minutes. That was march. In October she convinced me that she was feeling well enough to go sailing sixty miles to Chestertown, we took a week and walked gently around town ate in the resturants and took lots of naps. Nancy was 59 years old at that time and is doing fine now.
Chemo will knock you on your ass but you will get better. The loss of normal taste was Nancy's biggest complaint. and she lived for a couple of months on dark chocolate almond bark and clementine oranges. Remember to be very careful to have something close at hand to grab for support when you get up from sitting and sit for a bit after you have been lying down before standing. The nurses know about all of the meds that help to relieve the worst of the side effects and there are no extra points for trying to tough it out.
Just take one day at a time. I hope that you have someone close by.
Best<
Ross in Bel Air

[ssor]

Originally posted by Meerkat:
I don't know what you guys are up to over in Cabin Stores, since I'm not reading it as requested.

However, please keep in mind that this toolchest idea is exactly that: an idea. It will be months, if ever, before I'll be in any sort of position to do much of anything. 3 months of chemo are likely coming up in January or Febuary, and I'll need to have things basically set up before that occurs since I suspect I'm going to be even less lively than I was during, and after, the radiation treatment. I thought I was going to bounce right back from finishing the steroid last Wednesday and there's a bit of improvement, but it's going to be a matter of week, not days, until I'm back to being as good as I'm going to get.

Aside from all that, my eyes aren't doing so well! :( :( :eek: :( :( Meerkat,
When Nancy was doing her chemo she was rather wobbly and and a one percent grade in the parking lot at the supper market brought out the observation , "that's a pretty big hill." Her trips to the mail box were like this, Walk down seven steps to the front door,rest. Walk twenty steps on flat ground to the back of the car, rest against the car. Walk twenty MORE steps to the mail box ,Rest. Repeat the process coming back and collapse into a chair for fifteen or twenty minutes. That was march. In October she convinced me that she was feeling well enough to go sailing sixty miles to Chestertown, we took a week and walked gently around town ate in the resturants and took lots of naps. Nancy was 59 years old at that time and is doing fine now.
Chemo will knock you on your ass but you will get better. The loss of normal taste was Nancy's biggest complaint. and she lived for a couple of months on dark chocolate almond bark and clementine oranges. Remember to be very careful to have something close at hand to grab for support when you get up from sitting and sit for a bit after you have been lying down before standing. The nurses know about all of the meds that help to relieve the worst of the side effects and there are no extra points for trying to tough it out.
Just take one day at a time. I hope that you have someone close by.
Best<
Ross in Bel Air

[TomF]

Meer, check your p.m.

[TomF]

Meer, check your p.m.

[TomF]

Meer, check your p.m.

[Meerkat]

Checked - thanks, Tom. smile.gif

[Meerkat]

Checked - thanks, Tom. smile.gif

[Meerkat]

Checked - thanks, Tom. smile.gif

[ebent05]

Hello Meerkat
Speaking of toolchests, have you ever seen H. O. Studley's Masterpiece? 9" deep, 39" tall and just over 18 inches wide, holding 300 tools. Studley worked at a Boston piano maker during the early 1900's. I think I read somewhere Studley was a patternmaker for said piano manufacturer. Please see Studley's toolchest at one of these links

Taunton Press: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00088.asp

and

Tool Chest Legacy: http://www.phoenixmasonry.org/masonicmuseum/tool_chest_made_by_studley.htm

[ebent05]

Hello Meerkat
Speaking of toolchests, have you ever seen H. O. Studley's Masterpiece? 9" deep, 39" tall and just over 18 inches wide, holding 300 tools. Studley worked at a Boston piano maker during the early 1900's. I think I read somewhere Studley was a patternmaker for said piano manufacturer. Please see Studley's toolchest at one of these links

Taunton Press: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00088.asp

and

Tool Chest Legacy: http://www.phoenixmasonry.org/masonicmuseum/tool_chest_made_by_studley.htm

[ebent05]

Hello Meerkat
Speaking of toolchests, have you ever seen H. O. Studley's Masterpiece? 9" deep, 39" tall and just over 18 inches wide, holding 300 tools. Studley worked at a Boston piano maker during the early 1900's. I think I read somewhere Studley was a patternmaker for said piano manufacturer. Please see Studley's toolchest at one of these links

Taunton Press: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/w00088.asp

and

Tool Chest Legacy: http://www.phoenixmasonry.org/masonicmuseum/tool_chest_made_by_studley.htm

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, I posted that link to Yeung's gallery because of his unique tool box. The two halves utilize a divider that also acts as a display stand. It's not very large, seems to carry a lot of tools, and could easily be adapted to your needs. You could also use it as a kind of functioning art display, instead of keeping it under the bed. I've also just ordered "The Toolbox Book", by Jim Tolpin. I'll let you know if there's anything like what you're looking for in there.

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, I posted that link to Yeung's gallery because of his unique tool box. The two halves utilize a divider that also acts as a display stand. It's not very large, seems to carry a lot of tools, and could easily be adapted to your needs. You could also use it as a kind of functioning art display, instead of keeping it under the bed. I've also just ordered "The Toolbox Book", by Jim Tolpin. I'll let you know if there's anything like what you're looking for in there.

[Garrett Lowell]

Meer, I posted that link to Yeung's gallery because of his unique tool box. The two halves utilize a divider that also acts as a display stand. It's not very large, seems to carry a lot of tools, and could easily be adapted to your needs. You could also use it as a kind of functioning art display, instead of keeping it under the bed. I've also just ordered "The Toolbox Book", by Jim Tolpin. I'll let you know if there's anything like what you're looking for in there.

[Rick Clark]

Meer
I think your not to far from this wood shop

web page (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

http://www.parr.com/Stores /Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

Meer check these out
Sometime customer pay for the material and don't pick it up and sometimes you can get new cab's for next to nothing. Cheap or free is good. smile.gif

web page (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

http://seattle.citysearch.com/yel lowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

[ 12-19-2005, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: Rick Clark ]

[Rick Clark]

Meer
I think your not to far from this wood shop

web page (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

http://www.parr.com/Stores /Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

Meer check these out
Sometime customer pay for the material and don't pick it up and sometimes you can get new cab's for next to nothing. Cheap or free is good. smile.gif

web page (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

http://seattle.citysearch.com/yel lowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

[ 12-19-2005, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: Rick Clark ]

[Rick Clark]

Meer
I think your not to far from this wood shop

web page (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

http://www.parr.com/Stores /Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html (http://www.parr.com/Stores/Washington/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet/Seattle_Cabinet_Outlet.html)

Meer check these out
Sometime customer pay for the material and don't pick it up and sometimes you can get new cab's for next to nothing. Cheap or free is good. smile.gif

web page (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

http://seattle.citysearch.com/yel lowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html (http://seattle.citysearch.com/yellowpages/directory/Seattle_WA/270/417/page1.html)

[ 12-19-2005, 02:48 PM: Message edited by: Rick Clark ]