OT Welding Cast Iron

[hikingchrs]

Hi there,
I was useing a little too much force when my "new" vice cracked :( is it possiable to weld with a lincoln "tomb stone" I have done a little mild steel welding but never cast iron. is it best left to the pro's or do I have a paper weight? It snaped threw the holes that mount under
the vice. Btw it is a yost made in Meadville PA.
I have no idea how old it is I just got it at liberty tool in Maine. Nice store BTW not far from Wooden Boat.
Thanks Chris

[hikingchrs]

Hi there,
I was useing a little too much force when my "new" vice cracked :( is it possiable to weld with a lincoln "tomb stone" I have done a little mild steel welding but never cast iron. is it best left to the pro's or do I have a paper weight? It snaped threw the holes that mount under
the vice. Btw it is a yost made in Meadville PA.
I have no idea how old it is I just got it at liberty tool in Maine. Nice store BTW not far from Wooden Boat.
Thanks Chris

[hikingchrs]

Hi there,
I was useing a little too much force when my "new" vice cracked :( is it possiable to weld with a lincoln "tomb stone" I have done a little mild steel welding but never cast iron. is it best left to the pro's or do I have a paper weight? It snaped threw the holes that mount under
the vice. Btw it is a yost made in Meadville PA.
I have no idea how old it is I just got it at liberty tool in Maine. Nice store BTW not far from Wooden Boat.
Thanks Chris

[Gary E]

I know that Lincoln makes electric welding machines, but I do not know what a "tomb stone" is. Cast iron does not weld, it can be braized. If I were you I would take it all apart then take it to a shop that will pre heat the casting in a oven and do proper job of brazing.

[Gary E]

I know that Lincoln makes electric welding machines, but I do not know what a "tomb stone" is. Cast iron does not weld, it can be braized. If I were you I would take it all apart then take it to a shop that will pre heat the casting in a oven and do proper job of brazing.

[Gary E]

I know that Lincoln makes electric welding machines, but I do not know what a "tomb stone" is. Cast iron does not weld, it can be braized. If I were you I would take it all apart then take it to a shop that will pre heat the casting in a oven and do proper job of brazing.

[Dave Fleming]

From the LINCOLN Welding Site:

Guidelines for Welding Cast Iron


Background

Cast iron is difficult, but not impossible, to weld. In most cases, welding on cast iron involves repairs to castings, not joining casting to other members. The repairs may be made in the foundry where the castings are produced, or may be made to repair casting defects that are discovered after the part is machined. Mis-machined cast iron parts may require repair welding, such as when holes are drilled in the wrong location. Frequently, broken cast iron parts are repaired by welding. Broken cast iron parts are not unusual, given the brittle nature of most cast iron.

While there are a variety of types of cast iron, the most common is gray cast iron, and these guidelines are directed toward this type of material.

A few facts about cast iron help in understanding the welding challenges. Cast iron typically has a carbon content of 2% - 4%, roughly 10 times as much as most steels. The high carbon content causes the carbon to form flakes of graphite. This graphite gives gray cast iron its characteristic appearance when fractured.

When castings are made, molten iron is poured into a mold and allowed to slowly cool. When this high carbon material is allowed to cool slowly, crack free castings can be made. Remembering this is helpful when welding cast iron: during and after welding, the casting must either be allowed to cool slowly, or should be kept cool enough that the rate of cooling is not important.

A critical temperature in most cast iron is about 1450 degrees F. When at this temperature, conditions that can lead to cracking occur. While the arc will heat the casting to temperatures above this level, it is important that the casting not be held at this temperature for long periods of time.

Electrode selection

If the part is to be machined after welding, a nickel-type electrode will be required. Use Lincoln Softweld® 99Ni stick electrode for single pass, high dilution welds. Softweld 55 Ni is preferred for multiple pass welds. Sometimes, root passes are put in with Softweld 99 Ni, followed by fill passes with Softweld 55 Ni. For welds where machining is not required, and where the weld is expected to rust like the cast iron, Lincoln Ferroweld® stick electrode can be used.

To Heat, or not to Heat

In general, it is preferred to weld cast iron with preheat--and lots of it. But, another way to successfully weld cast iron is to keep it cool--not cold, but cool. Below, both methods will be described. However, once you select a method, stick with it. Keep it hot, or keep it cool, but don't change horses in the middle of the stream!

Welding Techniques with Preheat

Preheating the cast iron part before welding will slow the cooling rate of the weld, and the region surround the weld. It is always preferred to heat the entire casting, if possible. Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. Don’t heat over 1400 degrees F since that will put the material into the critical temperature range. Preheat the part slowly and uniformly.

Weld using a low current, to minimize admixture, and residual stresses. In some cases, it may be necessary to restrict the welds to small, approximately 1-inch long segments to prevent the build up of residual stresses that can lead to cracking. Peening of weld beads can be helpful in this regard as well.

After welding, allow the part to slowly cool. Wrapping the casting in an insulating blanket, or burying it in dry sand, will help slow cooling rates, and reduce cracking tendencies.

Welding Techniques without Preheat

The size of the casting, or other circumstances, may require that the repair be made without preheat. When this is the case, the part needs to be kept cool, but not cold.

Raising the casting temperature to 100 degrees F is helpful. If the part is on an engine, it may be possible to run it for a few minutes to obtain this temperature. Never heat the casting so hot that you cannot place your bare hand on it.

Make short, approximately 1” long welds. Peening after welding is important with this technique. Allow the weld and the casting to cool. Do not accelerate the rate of cooling with water or compressed air. It may be possible to weld in another area of the casting while the previous weld cools. All craters should be filled. Whenever possible, the beads should be deposited in the same direction, and it is preferred that the ends of parallel beads not line up with each other.

Sealing Cracks

Because of the nature of cast iron, tiny cracks tend to appear next to the weld even when good procedures are followed. If the casting must be water tight, this can be a problem. However, leaking can usually be eliminated with some sort of sealing compound or they may rust shut very soon after being returned to service.

The Studding Method

One method used to repair major breaks in large castings is to drill and tap holes over the surfaces that have been beveled to receive the repair weld metal. Screw steel studs into the threaded holes, leaving 3/16” (5 mm) to ¼” (6 mm)of the stud above the surface. Using the methods discussed above, weld the studs in place and cover the entire surface of the break with weld deposit. Once a good weld deposit is made, the two sides of the crack can be welded together.

[Dave Fleming]

From the LINCOLN Welding Site:

Guidelines for Welding Cast Iron


Background

Cast iron is difficult, but not impossible, to weld. In most cases, welding on cast iron involves repairs to castings, not joining casting to other members. The repairs may be made in the foundry where the castings are produced, or may be made to repair casting defects that are discovered after the part is machined. Mis-machined cast iron parts may require repair welding, such as when holes are drilled in the wrong location. Frequently, broken cast iron parts are repaired by welding. Broken cast iron parts are not unusual, given the brittle nature of most cast iron.

While there are a variety of types of cast iron, the most common is gray cast iron, and these guidelines are directed toward this type of material.

A few facts about cast iron help in understanding the welding challenges. Cast iron typically has a carbon content of 2% - 4%, roughly 10 times as much as most steels. The high carbon content causes the carbon to form flakes of graphite. This graphite gives gray cast iron its characteristic appearance when fractured.

When castings are made, molten iron is poured into a mold and allowed to slowly cool. When this high carbon material is allowed to cool slowly, crack free castings can be made. Remembering this is helpful when welding cast iron: during and after welding, the casting must either be allowed to cool slowly, or should be kept cool enough that the rate of cooling is not important.

A critical temperature in most cast iron is about 1450 degrees F. When at this temperature, conditions that can lead to cracking occur. While the arc will heat the casting to temperatures above this level, it is important that the casting not be held at this temperature for long periods of time.

Electrode selection

If the part is to be machined after welding, a nickel-type electrode will be required. Use Lincoln Softweld® 99Ni stick electrode for single pass, high dilution welds. Softweld 55 Ni is preferred for multiple pass welds. Sometimes, root passes are put in with Softweld 99 Ni, followed by fill passes with Softweld 55 Ni. For welds where machining is not required, and where the weld is expected to rust like the cast iron, Lincoln Ferroweld® stick electrode can be used.

To Heat, or not to Heat

In general, it is preferred to weld cast iron with preheat--and lots of it. But, another way to successfully weld cast iron is to keep it cool--not cold, but cool. Below, both methods will be described. However, once you select a method, stick with it. Keep it hot, or keep it cool, but don't change horses in the middle of the stream!

Welding Techniques with Preheat

Preheating the cast iron part before welding will slow the cooling rate of the weld, and the region surround the weld. It is always preferred to heat the entire casting, if possible. Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. Don’t heat over 1400 degrees F since that will put the material into the critical temperature range. Preheat the part slowly and uniformly.

Weld using a low current, to minimize admixture, and residual stresses. In some cases, it may be necessary to restrict the welds to small, approximately 1-inch long segments to prevent the build up of residual stresses that can lead to cracking. Peening of weld beads can be helpful in this regard as well.

After welding, allow the part to slowly cool. Wrapping the casting in an insulating blanket, or burying it in dry sand, will help slow cooling rates, and reduce cracking tendencies.

Welding Techniques without Preheat

The size of the casting, or other circumstances, may require that the repair be made without preheat. When this is the case, the part needs to be kept cool, but not cold.

Raising the casting temperature to 100 degrees F is helpful. If the part is on an engine, it may be possible to run it for a few minutes to obtain this temperature. Never heat the casting so hot that you cannot place your bare hand on it.

Make short, approximately 1” long welds. Peening after welding is important with this technique. Allow the weld and the casting to cool. Do not accelerate the rate of cooling with water or compressed air. It may be possible to weld in another area of the casting while the previous weld cools. All craters should be filled. Whenever possible, the beads should be deposited in the same direction, and it is preferred that the ends of parallel beads not line up with each other.

Sealing Cracks

Because of the nature of cast iron, tiny cracks tend to appear next to the weld even when good procedures are followed. If the casting must be water tight, this can be a problem. However, leaking can usually be eliminated with some sort of sealing compound or they may rust shut very soon after being returned to service.

The Studding Method

One method used to repair major breaks in large castings is to drill and tap holes over the surfaces that have been beveled to receive the repair weld metal. Screw steel studs into the threaded holes, leaving 3/16” (5 mm) to ¼” (6 mm)of the stud above the surface. Using the methods discussed above, weld the studs in place and cover the entire surface of the break with weld deposit. Once a good weld deposit is made, the two sides of the crack can be welded together.

[Dave Fleming]

From the LINCOLN Welding Site:

Guidelines for Welding Cast Iron


Background

Cast iron is difficult, but not impossible, to weld. In most cases, welding on cast iron involves repairs to castings, not joining casting to other members. The repairs may be made in the foundry where the castings are produced, or may be made to repair casting defects that are discovered after the part is machined. Mis-machined cast iron parts may require repair welding, such as when holes are drilled in the wrong location. Frequently, broken cast iron parts are repaired by welding. Broken cast iron parts are not unusual, given the brittle nature of most cast iron.

While there are a variety of types of cast iron, the most common is gray cast iron, and these guidelines are directed toward this type of material.

A few facts about cast iron help in understanding the welding challenges. Cast iron typically has a carbon content of 2% - 4%, roughly 10 times as much as most steels. The high carbon content causes the carbon to form flakes of graphite. This graphite gives gray cast iron its characteristic appearance when fractured.

When castings are made, molten iron is poured into a mold and allowed to slowly cool. When this high carbon material is allowed to cool slowly, crack free castings can be made. Remembering this is helpful when welding cast iron: during and after welding, the casting must either be allowed to cool slowly, or should be kept cool enough that the rate of cooling is not important.

A critical temperature in most cast iron is about 1450 degrees F. When at this temperature, conditions that can lead to cracking occur. While the arc will heat the casting to temperatures above this level, it is important that the casting not be held at this temperature for long periods of time.

Electrode selection

If the part is to be machined after welding, a nickel-type electrode will be required. Use Lincoln Softweld® 99Ni stick electrode for single pass, high dilution welds. Softweld 55 Ni is preferred for multiple pass welds. Sometimes, root passes are put in with Softweld 99 Ni, followed by fill passes with Softweld 55 Ni. For welds where machining is not required, and where the weld is expected to rust like the cast iron, Lincoln Ferroweld® stick electrode can be used.

To Heat, or not to Heat

In general, it is preferred to weld cast iron with preheat--and lots of it. But, another way to successfully weld cast iron is to keep it cool--not cold, but cool. Below, both methods will be described. However, once you select a method, stick with it. Keep it hot, or keep it cool, but don't change horses in the middle of the stream!

Welding Techniques with Preheat

Preheating the cast iron part before welding will slow the cooling rate of the weld, and the region surround the weld. It is always preferred to heat the entire casting, if possible. Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. Don’t heat over 1400 degrees F since that will put the material into the critical temperature range. Preheat the part slowly and uniformly.

Weld using a low current, to minimize admixture, and residual stresses. In some cases, it may be necessary to restrict the welds to small, approximately 1-inch long segments to prevent the build up of residual stresses that can lead to cracking. Peening of weld beads can be helpful in this regard as well.

After welding, allow the part to slowly cool. Wrapping the casting in an insulating blanket, or burying it in dry sand, will help slow cooling rates, and reduce cracking tendencies.

Welding Techniques without Preheat

The size of the casting, or other circumstances, may require that the repair be made without preheat. When this is the case, the part needs to be kept cool, but not cold.

Raising the casting temperature to 100 degrees F is helpful. If the part is on an engine, it may be possible to run it for a few minutes to obtain this temperature. Never heat the casting so hot that you cannot place your bare hand on it.

Make short, approximately 1” long welds. Peening after welding is important with this technique. Allow the weld and the casting to cool. Do not accelerate the rate of cooling with water or compressed air. It may be possible to weld in another area of the casting while the previous weld cools. All craters should be filled. Whenever possible, the beads should be deposited in the same direction, and it is preferred that the ends of parallel beads not line up with each other.

Sealing Cracks

Because of the nature of cast iron, tiny cracks tend to appear next to the weld even when good procedures are followed. If the casting must be water tight, this can be a problem. However, leaking can usually be eliminated with some sort of sealing compound or they may rust shut very soon after being returned to service.

The Studding Method

One method used to repair major breaks in large castings is to drill and tap holes over the surfaces that have been beveled to receive the repair weld metal. Screw steel studs into the threaded holes, leaving 3/16” (5 mm) to ¼” (6 mm)of the stud above the surface. Using the methods discussed above, weld the studs in place and cover the entire surface of the break with weld deposit. Once a good weld deposit is made, the two sides of the crack can be welded together.

[Gary E]

Dave,
From your post...
"Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. "

I am talking about the "normal" welder. By the way who do you know that has an oven to pre heat this hunka cast iron at home? Take it to a weld shop that is properly equiped.

[Gary E]

Dave,
From your post...
"Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. "

I am talking about the "normal" welder. By the way who do you know that has an oven to pre heat this hunka cast iron at home? Take it to a weld shop that is properly equiped.

[Gary E]

Dave,
From your post...
"Typical preheat temperatures are 500-1200 degrees F. "

I am talking about the "normal" welder. By the way who do you know that has an oven to pre heat this hunka cast iron at home? Take it to a weld shop that is properly equiped.

[Dave Fleming]

IIRC, big semi steel castings such as Ships rudders were repaired like this.

The whole unit was removed from the vessel whilst in drydock. A temporary shelter was built and the unit was placed in the shelter. A number of induction type heaters were attached with thermocouples to record the temp of unit.
When the unit had reached the temperature that was wanted, fitters would grind out the cracks and drill and tap for plugs at each end of the crack. Then an army of welders would line up one by one. Once welding began it did not stop until the whole crack or cracks were filled. Each welder would work for about roughly 10 minutes filling the crack and as he tired another by signal was ready to take over. When welding was completed to the engineers satisfaction it was stopped but the heat was kept up for several more hours. Then very gradually the heat was reduced until the unit was at ambient temperature. Further inspection by some device similar to an X-ray machine and dye penetrant was done to determine the quality of the weld/repair. If satisfactory the unit was released to be fitted back into the ship.

There are to my limited knowledge there are many different formulations of Cast Iron from simple Grey Iron to the Meehanite formulas.

[Dave Fleming]

IIRC, big semi steel castings such as Ships rudders were repaired like this.

The whole unit was removed from the vessel whilst in drydock. A temporary shelter was built and the unit was placed in the shelter. A number of induction type heaters were attached with thermocouples to record the temp of unit.
When the unit had reached the temperature that was wanted, fitters would grind out the cracks and drill and tap for plugs at each end of the crack. Then an army of welders would line up one by one. Once welding began it did not stop until the whole crack or cracks were filled. Each welder would work for about roughly 10 minutes filling the crack and as he tired another by signal was ready to take over. When welding was completed to the engineers satisfaction it was stopped but the heat was kept up for several more hours. Then very gradually the heat was reduced until the unit was at ambient temperature. Further inspection by some device similar to an X-ray machine and dye penetrant was done to determine the quality of the weld/repair. If satisfactory the unit was released to be fitted back into the ship.

There are to my limited knowledge there are many different formulations of Cast Iron from simple Grey Iron to the Meehanite formulas.

[Dave Fleming]

IIRC, big semi steel castings such as Ships rudders were repaired like this.

The whole unit was removed from the vessel whilst in drydock. A temporary shelter was built and the unit was placed in the shelter. A number of induction type heaters were attached with thermocouples to record the temp of unit.
When the unit had reached the temperature that was wanted, fitters would grind out the cracks and drill and tap for plugs at each end of the crack. Then an army of welders would line up one by one. Once welding began it did not stop until the whole crack or cracks were filled. Each welder would work for about roughly 10 minutes filling the crack and as he tired another by signal was ready to take over. When welding was completed to the engineers satisfaction it was stopped but the heat was kept up for several more hours. Then very gradually the heat was reduced until the unit was at ambient temperature. Further inspection by some device similar to an X-ray machine and dye penetrant was done to determine the quality of the weld/repair. If satisfactory the unit was released to be fitted back into the ship.

There are to my limited knowledge there are many different formulations of Cast Iron from simple Grey Iron to the Meehanite formulas.

[alteran]

I'm familiar with your tombstone welder, I've welded and brazed cast iron and a few times welded vices.

For a vice that may be "overstressed" again some day right when you most need it my advice is buy a new vice or have an experienced cast iron guy weld it.

The new vice will likely be cheaper. Buy the biggest you can afford. Then go up one size. smile.gif

[alteran]

I'm familiar with your tombstone welder, I've welded and brazed cast iron and a few times welded vices.

For a vice that may be "overstressed" again some day right when you most need it my advice is buy a new vice or have an experienced cast iron guy weld it.

The new vice will likely be cheaper. Buy the biggest you can afford. Then go up one size. smile.gif

[alteran]

I'm familiar with your tombstone welder, I've welded and brazed cast iron and a few times welded vices.

For a vice that may be "overstressed" again some day right when you most need it my advice is buy a new vice or have an experienced cast iron guy weld it.

The new vice will likely be cheaper. Buy the biggest you can afford. Then go up one size. smile.gif

[paladin]

Before my dad "retired" to truck driving for 15 or 20 years he was a welder...during the war at Sausalito building ship superstructures, and after the war worked on oil field equipment welding iron castings.....they had a company called "Yello-Weld"...didn't know anything about it...being about 10-13 years old at the time....be that's all he did...weld cast iron...

[paladin]

Before my dad "retired" to truck driving for 15 or 20 years he was a welder...during the war at Sausalito building ship superstructures, and after the war worked on oil field equipment welding iron castings.....they had a company called "Yello-Weld"...didn't know anything about it...being about 10-13 years old at the time....be that's all he did...weld cast iron...

[paladin]

Before my dad "retired" to truck driving for 15 or 20 years he was a welder...during the war at Sausalito building ship superstructures, and after the war worked on oil field equipment welding iron castings.....they had a company called "Yello-Weld"...didn't know anything about it...being about 10-13 years old at the time....be that's all he did...weld cast iron...

[Tom Lathrop]

20 years ago, I became the owner of an old Walker Turner table saw that had several broken sections in the cast iron motor/saw assembly. Not knowing any better, I ground out V's at the breaks and welded them with a Sears arc welder and nickel rods. The saw is now owned by a neighbor and has not had any problems at all.

Beginner's luck?

[Tom Lathrop]

20 years ago, I became the owner of an old Walker Turner table saw that had several broken sections in the cast iron motor/saw assembly. Not knowing any better, I ground out V's at the breaks and welded them with a Sears arc welder and nickel rods. The saw is now owned by a neighbor and has not had any problems at all.

Beginner's luck?

[Tom Lathrop]

20 years ago, I became the owner of an old Walker Turner table saw that had several broken sections in the cast iron motor/saw assembly. Not knowing any better, I ground out V's at the breaks and welded them with a Sears arc welder and nickel rods. The saw is now owned by a neighbor and has not had any problems at all.

Beginner's luck?

[alteran]

Tom, beginners luck? Maybe, maybe not. Could be that the parts you welded are not under a lot of stress like the frame of a vice. And not susceptible to over stress like a vice can be when we put a pipe on the vice handle. smile.gif

[alteran]

Tom, beginners luck? Maybe, maybe not. Could be that the parts you welded are not under a lot of stress like the frame of a vice. And not susceptible to over stress like a vice can be when we put a pipe on the vice handle. smile.gif

[alteran]

Tom, beginners luck? Maybe, maybe not. Could be that the parts you welded are not under a lot of stress like the frame of a vice. And not susceptible to over stress like a vice can be when we put a pipe on the vice handle. smile.gif

[Billy Bones]

I've had good luck welding tractor exhaust castings with nickel rods and an ac buzzbox. Ya preheat as much as possible, then weld a bit here, then a bit there, then a bit more over yonder, to spread out the heat build up. I never welded more than an inch at a time in one spot. When done let cool slowly and voila, until the next time someone drove a tractor with a tall stack into a low barn.

Good luck.

BTW, I loved my 6" chinese spinning vise from Northern for about sixty bucks.

[Billy Bones]

I've had good luck welding tractor exhaust castings with nickel rods and an ac buzzbox. Ya preheat as much as possible, then weld a bit here, then a bit there, then a bit more over yonder, to spread out the heat build up. I never welded more than an inch at a time in one spot. When done let cool slowly and voila, until the next time someone drove a tractor with a tall stack into a low barn.

Good luck.

BTW, I loved my 6" chinese spinning vise from Northern for about sixty bucks.

[Billy Bones]

I've had good luck welding tractor exhaust castings with nickel rods and an ac buzzbox. Ya preheat as much as possible, then weld a bit here, then a bit there, then a bit more over yonder, to spread out the heat build up. I never welded more than an inch at a time in one spot. When done let cool slowly and voila, until the next time someone drove a tractor with a tall stack into a low barn.

Good luck.

BTW, I loved my 6" chinese spinning vise from Northern for about sixty bucks.

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

Cast iron is NOT cast steel. The carbon content of steel need only be .83%. The carbon content of cast iron is much higher and is the problem ingredient when welding is contemplated. I learned this 40 years ago but,as I recall, there is a tendency for carbon in cast iron to migrate to the edge of a weld making it brittle and crack prone. Then there is the problem of what kind of cast iron. Old timers do spark testing that givers them a rough idea about which rod to use. Then they use various other techniques like preheating, weld and hammer, and very slow cooling to avoid heat induced stressed cracks.
So welding this stuff is not for the uninitiated. Find a welder with some gray in his beard and let him do it.
There are many more modern welding techniques that may be useful but this exotic stuff isn't cheap.
Charlie

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

Cast iron is NOT cast steel. The carbon content of steel need only be .83%. The carbon content of cast iron is much higher and is the problem ingredient when welding is contemplated. I learned this 40 years ago but,as I recall, there is a tendency for carbon in cast iron to migrate to the edge of a weld making it brittle and crack prone. Then there is the problem of what kind of cast iron. Old timers do spark testing that givers them a rough idea about which rod to use. Then they use various other techniques like preheating, weld and hammer, and very slow cooling to avoid heat induced stressed cracks.
So welding this stuff is not for the uninitiated. Find a welder with some gray in his beard and let him do it.
There are many more modern welding techniques that may be useful but this exotic stuff isn't cheap.
Charlie

[Cuyahoga Chuck]

Cast iron is NOT cast steel. The carbon content of steel need only be .83%. The carbon content of cast iron is much higher and is the problem ingredient when welding is contemplated. I learned this 40 years ago but,as I recall, there is a tendency for carbon in cast iron to migrate to the edge of a weld making it brittle and crack prone. Then there is the problem of what kind of cast iron. Old timers do spark testing that givers them a rough idea about which rod to use. Then they use various other techniques like preheating, weld and hammer, and very slow cooling to avoid heat induced stressed cracks.
So welding this stuff is not for the uninitiated. Find a welder with some gray in his beard and let him do it.
There are many more modern welding techniques that may be useful but this exotic stuff isn't cheap.
Charlie

[Dave Fleming]

Cast iron is NOT cast steelNever said it t'was. Made that the clear or so I thought.

But, lets face it,today very few if any items are true 100% Cast Iron.

[Dave Fleming]

Cast iron is NOT cast steelNever said it t'was. Made that the clear or so I thought.

But, lets face it,today very few if any items are true 100% Cast Iron.

[Dave Fleming]

Cast iron is NOT cast steelNever said it t'was. Made that the clear or so I thought.

But, lets face it,today very few if any items are true 100% Cast Iron.

[Kev Smyth]

We've welded a lot of weird stuff over the years, and real success with cast iron is the least predictable. For a vise that's likely to be highly stressed I doubt you'll have permanent success, no matter what you do. Even if you heat the whole thing up after welding and let it cool in sand, you'll have internal stresses and brittleness where the alloy changes in the weld. It will eventually crack again- and someone could get hurt.

Support a Chinaman- buy a new vice. tongue.gif :D

[Kev Smyth]

We've welded a lot of weird stuff over the years, and real success with cast iron is the least predictable. For a vise that's likely to be highly stressed I doubt you'll have permanent success, no matter what you do. Even if you heat the whole thing up after welding and let it cool in sand, you'll have internal stresses and brittleness where the alloy changes in the weld. It will eventually crack again- and someone could get hurt.

Support a Chinaman- buy a new vice. tongue.gif :D

[Kev Smyth]

We've welded a lot of weird stuff over the years, and real success with cast iron is the least predictable. For a vise that's likely to be highly stressed I doubt you'll have permanent success, no matter what you do. Even if you heat the whole thing up after welding and let it cool in sand, you'll have internal stresses and brittleness where the alloy changes in the weld. It will eventually crack again- and someone could get hurt.

Support a Chinaman- buy a new vice. tongue.gif :D