Cedar Bucket

[falmouthcutter]

I am looking for a cedar bucket for use aboard my Falmouth Cutter. To date, I have been unable to find a source. Suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated.

[falmouthcutter]

I am looking for a cedar bucket for use aboard my Falmouth Cutter. To date, I have been unable to find a source. Suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated.

[falmouthcutter]

I am looking for a cedar bucket for use aboard my Falmouth Cutter. To date, I have been unable to find a source. Suggestions and/or recommendations would be most appreciated.

[Mike Vogdes]

Here's a link for one...
http://www.beaverbuckets.com/Cedarbucket.htm
spackle bucket works pretty good to.

[Mike Vogdes]

Here's a link for one...
http://www.beaverbuckets.com/Cedarbucket.htm
spackle bucket works pretty good to.

[Mike Vogdes]

Here's a link for one...
http://www.beaverbuckets.com/Cedarbucket.htm
spackle bucket works pretty good to.

[paladin]

..make one...it ain't hard......

[paladin]

..make one...it ain't hard......

[paladin]

..make one...it ain't hard......

[paladin]

jeff...if'n ya do it right it ain't agonna leak....

[paladin]

jeff...if'n ya do it right it ain't agonna leak....

[paladin]

jeff...if'n ya do it right it ain't agonna leak....

[Dave Fleming]

I made a deep bucket type sink for one boats galley. Used Port Orford Cedar plus I made a P.O. bucket that fit into the sink too.

'Tapered-Staved' work is not hard, just pay attention to your layout.

[Dave Fleming]

I made a deep bucket type sink for one boats galley. Used Port Orford Cedar plus I made a P.O. bucket that fit into the sink too.

'Tapered-Staved' work is not hard, just pay attention to your layout.

[Dave Fleming]

I made a deep bucket type sink for one boats galley. Used Port Orford Cedar plus I made a P.O. bucket that fit into the sink too.

'Tapered-Staved' work is not hard, just pay attention to your layout.

[alteran]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?

Sounds like a fun project to learn a new skill while building something useful.

Al.

[alteran]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?

Sounds like a fun project to learn a new skill while building something useful.

Al.

[alteran]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?

Sounds like a fun project to learn a new skill while building something useful.

Al.

[L.W. Baxter]

I saw the fellow from "The Woodwright's Shop" did a segment with a cedar bucket-maker, played not too long ago. I believe the episodes of that show are available on cassette from PBS. Very thorough exposition of a relatively simple, though clever, process.

[L.W. Baxter]

I saw the fellow from "The Woodwright's Shop" did a segment with a cedar bucket-maker, played not too long ago. I believe the episodes of that show are available on cassette from PBS. Very thorough exposition of a relatively simple, though clever, process.

[L.W. Baxter]

I saw the fellow from "The Woodwright's Shop" did a segment with a cedar bucket-maker, played not too long ago. I believe the episodes of that show are available on cassette from PBS. Very thorough exposition of a relatively simple, though clever, process.

[cdragon]

If you're not going to make one - the Beaver Bucket guy out in Nebraska makes a beautiful one and is very pleasant to deal with. I looked for one for a gift for my brother (didn't have time or desire to make one) for a while with no luck till I found them. Only problem is it is so pretty that it is hard to think of using it for its intended purpose!

[cdragon]

If you're not going to make one - the Beaver Bucket guy out in Nebraska makes a beautiful one and is very pleasant to deal with. I looked for one for a gift for my brother (didn't have time or desire to make one) for a while with no luck till I found them. Only problem is it is so pretty that it is hard to think of using it for its intended purpose!

[cdragon]

If you're not going to make one - the Beaver Bucket guy out in Nebraska makes a beautiful one and is very pleasant to deal with. I looked for one for a gift for my brother (didn't have time or desire to make one) for a while with no luck till I found them. Only problem is it is so pretty that it is hard to think of using it for its intended purpose!

[Dave Fleming]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?
I don't watch that fellow with all the band-aids. ;)

Off the top of my bald haid two sources of possible help come to mind.
Lindsey Books or Astrigal Press might have a book about Cooperage.
The WGBH Documentary "Ben's Mill' has a decent segment of the late Ben Thresher making a water tub for cows.

Ben's Mill clearly outlines the steps needed to determine the taper and the splay of the staves.
The film is on VCR Tape and avaiable from either WGBH's web site or Amazon.com

If memory serves the sink I made was of 1 inch net Port Orford Cedar and the bucket about 3/4 inch net staves and bottom.

If you are worried about your fit, you can spline the staves and bottom boards.

[Dave Fleming]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?
I don't watch that fellow with all the band-aids. ;)

Off the top of my bald haid two sources of possible help come to mind.
Lindsey Books or Astrigal Press might have a book about Cooperage.
The WGBH Documentary "Ben's Mill' has a decent segment of the late Ben Thresher making a water tub for cows.

Ben's Mill clearly outlines the steps needed to determine the taper and the splay of the staves.
The film is on VCR Tape and avaiable from either WGBH's web site or Amazon.com

If memory serves the sink I made was of 1 inch net Port Orford Cedar and the bucket about 3/4 inch net staves and bottom.

If you are worried about your fit, you can spline the staves and bottom boards.

[Dave Fleming]

Dave could you point us to a "how to" ?
I don't watch that fellow with all the band-aids. ;)

Off the top of my bald haid two sources of possible help come to mind.
Lindsey Books or Astrigal Press might have a book about Cooperage.
The WGBH Documentary "Ben's Mill' has a decent segment of the late Ben Thresher making a water tub for cows.

Ben's Mill clearly outlines the steps needed to determine the taper and the splay of the staves.
The film is on VCR Tape and avaiable from either WGBH's web site or Amazon.com

If memory serves the sink I made was of 1 inch net Port Orford Cedar and the bucket about 3/4 inch net staves and bottom.

If you are worried about your fit, you can spline the staves and bottom boards.

[Paulyboy]

1. Figure out the outside circumference at the top and the bottom.
2. Figure out the heght you want.
3. figure how many staves you want in the bucket (make it easy and make it a DIVISION OF 360)
4. Cut the staves with these dimensions, then plane the sides with an angle derived from 360 divided by twice the number of staves you're using.
5. make 2 iron hoops for the top and bottom of the bucket to be the outside circumference at 2" from the top and 2" from the bottom, minus 1" in overall circumference.
6. Rout a groove on the insides of the bucket staves 1/2 the thickness of the staves, measured up 1" from bottom so you can fit the bottom in.
7. cut the bottom out after measuring the proper diameter, and try to loosely fit it in the groove before hammering the hoops home around it.
8. Soak the bucket in water for awhile so the wood swells shut along the edges of the staves. Take ot out of the water and fill it up to be sure it's watertight.
9. If any leaks, repeat from step 1.
OR! WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG (http://WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG) and search under WOODWRIGHTS SHOP

[ 02-04-2005, 02:41 PM: Message edited by: Paulyboy ]

[Paulyboy]

1. Figure out the outside circumference at the top and the bottom.
2. Figure out the heght you want.
3. figure how many staves you want in the bucket (make it easy and make it a DIVISION OF 360)
4. Cut the staves with these dimensions, then plane the sides with an angle derived from 360 divided by twice the number of staves you're using.
5. make 2 iron hoops for the top and bottom of the bucket to be the outside circumference at 2" from the top and 2" from the bottom, minus 1" in overall circumference.
6. Rout a groove on the insides of the bucket staves 1/2 the thickness of the staves, measured up 1" from bottom so you can fit the bottom in.
7. cut the bottom out after measuring the proper diameter, and try to loosely fit it in the groove before hammering the hoops home around it.
8. Soak the bucket in water for awhile so the wood swells shut along the edges of the staves. Take ot out of the water and fill it up to be sure it's watertight.
9. If any leaks, repeat from step 1.
OR! WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG (http://WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG) and search under WOODWRIGHTS SHOP

[ 02-04-2005, 02:41 PM: Message edited by: Paulyboy ]

[Paulyboy]

1. Figure out the outside circumference at the top and the bottom.
2. Figure out the heght you want.
3. figure how many staves you want in the bucket (make it easy and make it a DIVISION OF 360)
4. Cut the staves with these dimensions, then plane the sides with an angle derived from 360 divided by twice the number of staves you're using.
5. make 2 iron hoops for the top and bottom of the bucket to be the outside circumference at 2" from the top and 2" from the bottom, minus 1" in overall circumference.
6. Rout a groove on the insides of the bucket staves 1/2 the thickness of the staves, measured up 1" from bottom so you can fit the bottom in.
7. cut the bottom out after measuring the proper diameter, and try to loosely fit it in the groove before hammering the hoops home around it.
8. Soak the bucket in water for awhile so the wood swells shut along the edges of the staves. Take ot out of the water and fill it up to be sure it's watertight.
9. If any leaks, repeat from step 1.
OR! WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG (http://WWW.SHOPPBS.ORG) and search under WOODWRIGHTS SHOP

[ 02-04-2005, 02:41 PM: Message edited by: Paulyboy ]

[Ben Fuller]

L.F. Herreshoff designed a nice two part seat for the bucket. The cheek pieces with some cleats under neath that were just far enough apart to take the top of the bucket. I recall that there was a bit of rope that kept the two pieces together and at the correct distance apart.

Of course you realize that you should be some distance off shore before you are legally allowed to bucket and chuck it.

[ 02-04-2005, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: Ben Fuller ]

[Ben Fuller]

L.F. Herreshoff designed a nice two part seat for the bucket. The cheek pieces with some cleats under neath that were just far enough apart to take the top of the bucket. I recall that there was a bit of rope that kept the two pieces together and at the correct distance apart.

Of course you realize that you should be some distance off shore before you are legally allowed to bucket and chuck it.

[ 02-04-2005, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: Ben Fuller ]

[Ben Fuller]

L.F. Herreshoff designed a nice two part seat for the bucket. The cheek pieces with some cleats under neath that were just far enough apart to take the top of the bucket. I recall that there was a bit of rope that kept the two pieces together and at the correct distance apart.

Of course you realize that you should be some distance off shore before you are legally allowed to bucket and chuck it.

[ 02-04-2005, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: Ben Fuller ]

[paladin]

..use 16 staves and everything can be cut on a table saw.......even the bottom...

[paladin]

..use 16 staves and everything can be cut on a table saw.......even the bottom...

[paladin]

..use 16 staves and everything can be cut on a table saw.......even the bottom...

[Nicholas Carey]

You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

Going to my rack o' Fine Woodworking magazines, I find that issue #40 (May/June 1983) has, on page 73, a rather fine (I think) article by Drew Langsner, entitled Making Wooden Buckets: White Cooperage, the Swiss Way.

Drew Langsner "apprenticed" with a Swiss cooper and describes the making of "white cooperage", which is single bottom, straight staves with straight edges and 2 hoops, as opposed to double-bottom cooperage (the barrel family, using bowed staves, curved stave edges and a minimum of 4 hoops). In this style of cooperage, as described by Mr. Langsner, even the hoops are wooden.

To quote Mr. Langsner: <span style="font-family:serif;">The methods for single-bottom cooperage described in this article were taught to me by Rudolf Kholer, an 83-year-old cooper who lives and works in the Swiss Alps. I met Kohler in 1972 while I was searching for a traditional Swiss milking-bucket to purchase as a souvenir. I'd not done much woodworking, but I became so fascinated with his work (and his beautiful shop) that I asked if it would be possible to study with him. He agreed and we managed well, even though I speak little German and Kohler knows no English; we put a great deal of positive energy into the relationship. Ten weeks later, I wasn't a cooper, but I had become a wood-worm. In 1980, I returned to Switzerland and worked with Ruedi Kohler again, this time for three fast-moving, hard-learning weeks.Drew Langsner (http://countryworkshops.org/langsner.html) is still around and teaching country woodcrafts at Country Workshops (http://countryworkshops.org/) near Asheville, North Carolina. BTW, he's running a week-long workshop on Swiss cooperage 4-8 April 2005 (http://countryworkshops.org/cooper.html)&hellip;'course taking that will drive your bucket's cost up to about $1000 :D

[ 02-05-2005, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

Going to my rack o' Fine Woodworking magazines, I find that issue #40 (May/June 1983) has, on page 73, a rather fine (I think) article by Drew Langsner, entitled Making Wooden Buckets: White Cooperage, the Swiss Way.

Drew Langsner "apprenticed" with a Swiss cooper and describes the making of "white cooperage", which is single bottom, straight staves with straight edges and 2 hoops, as opposed to double-bottom cooperage (the barrel family, using bowed staves, curved stave edges and a minimum of 4 hoops). In this style of cooperage, as described by Mr. Langsner, even the hoops are wooden.

To quote Mr. Langsner: <span style="font-family:serif;">The methods for single-bottom cooperage described in this article were taught to me by Rudolf Kholer, an 83-year-old cooper who lives and works in the Swiss Alps. I met Kohler in 1972 while I was searching for a traditional Swiss milking-bucket to purchase as a souvenir. I'd not done much woodworking, but I became so fascinated with his work (and his beautiful shop) that I asked if it would be possible to study with him. He agreed and we managed well, even though I speak little German and Kohler knows no English; we put a great deal of positive energy into the relationship. Ten weeks later, I wasn't a cooper, but I had become a wood-worm. In 1980, I returned to Switzerland and worked with Ruedi Kohler again, this time for three fast-moving, hard-learning weeks.Drew Langsner (http://countryworkshops.org/langsner.html) is still around and teaching country woodcrafts at Country Workshops (http://countryworkshops.org/) near Asheville, North Carolina. BTW, he's running a week-long workshop on Swiss cooperage 4-8 April 2005 (http://countryworkshops.org/cooper.html)&hellip;'course taking that will drive your bucket's cost up to about $1000 :D

[ 02-05-2005, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

Going to my rack o' Fine Woodworking magazines, I find that issue #40 (May/June 1983) has, on page 73, a rather fine (I think) article by Drew Langsner, entitled Making Wooden Buckets: White Cooperage, the Swiss Way.

Drew Langsner "apprenticed" with a Swiss cooper and describes the making of "white cooperage", which is single bottom, straight staves with straight edges and 2 hoops, as opposed to double-bottom cooperage (the barrel family, using bowed staves, curved stave edges and a minimum of 4 hoops). In this style of cooperage, as described by Mr. Langsner, even the hoops are wooden.

To quote Mr. Langsner: <span style="font-family:serif;">The methods for single-bottom cooperage described in this article were taught to me by Rudolf Kholer, an 83-year-old cooper who lives and works in the Swiss Alps. I met Kohler in 1972 while I was searching for a traditional Swiss milking-bucket to purchase as a souvenir. I'd not done much woodworking, but I became so fascinated with his work (and his beautiful shop) that I asked if it would be possible to study with him. He agreed and we managed well, even though I speak little German and Kohler knows no English; we put a great deal of positive energy into the relationship. Ten weeks later, I wasn't a cooper, but I had become a wood-worm. In 1980, I returned to Switzerland and worked with Ruedi Kohler again, this time for three fast-moving, hard-learning weeks.Drew Langsner (http://countryworkshops.org/langsner.html) is still around and teaching country woodcrafts at Country Workshops (http://countryworkshops.org/) near Asheville, North Carolina. BTW, he's running a week-long workshop on Swiss cooperage 4-8 April 2005 (http://countryworkshops.org/cooper.html)&hellip;'course taking that will drive your bucket's cost up to about $1000 :D

[ 02-05-2005, 01:29 AM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[paladin]

Nicholas.....that is what I was alluding to with the 16 staves remark.......

[paladin]

Nicholas.....that is what I was alluding to with the 16 staves remark.......

[paladin]

Nicholas.....that is what I was alluding to with the 16 staves remark.......

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

Cedar! Riven malmo oak. and you'll need a croze and an inshave.

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

Cedar! Riven malmo oak. and you'll need a croze and an inshave.

[P.I. Stazzer-Newt]

Cedar! Riven malmo oak. and you'll need a croze and an inshave.

[NormMessinger]

What you gonna put in this bucket. Wood will soak up the contents along with the attendent odors and you ain't gonna ever get 'em out. ...seems to me.

[NormMessinger]

What you gonna put in this bucket. Wood will soak up the contents along with the attendent odors and you ain't gonna ever get 'em out. ...seems to me.

[NormMessinger]

What you gonna put in this bucket. Wood will soak up the contents along with the attendent odors and you ain't gonna ever get 'em out. ...seems to me.

[Magwitch]

It's the Romance of it all Norm, that, and not enough potty training,,,,,
Personally I find that a four gallon Chinese made rubber horse bucket (made from re-cycled tyres) works for me. With the advantage of not scarring the topsides as you rinse it out. smile.gif
I get mine from here http://www.first4farming.com/cwg/

IanW

[ 02-05-2005, 11:31 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]

[Magwitch]

It's the Romance of it all Norm, that, and not enough potty training,,,,,
Personally I find that a four gallon Chinese made rubber horse bucket (made from re-cycled tyres) works for me. With the advantage of not scarring the topsides as you rinse it out. smile.gif
I get mine from here http://www.first4farming.com/cwg/

IanW

[ 02-05-2005, 11:31 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]

[Magwitch]

It's the Romance of it all Norm, that, and not enough potty training,,,,,
Personally I find that a four gallon Chinese made rubber horse bucket (made from re-cycled tyres) works for me. With the advantage of not scarring the topsides as you rinse it out. smile.gif
I get mine from here http://www.first4farming.com/cwg/

IanW

[ 02-05-2005, 11:31 AM: Message edited by: Magwitch ]

[ahp]

Wallmart has nice buckets. They don't take on a distictive personality and they don't put dents in things.

[ahp]

Wallmart has nice buckets. They don't take on a distictive personality and they don't put dents in things.

[ahp]

Wallmart has nice buckets. They don't take on a distictive personality and they don't put dents in things.

[paladin]

Put the potty in the cockpit....little seat under a cusion....and a 4 inch pvc or fiberglas hose plumbed straight down below the stern...

no handles to pump......direct plumbing....

[paladin]

Put the potty in the cockpit....little seat under a cusion....and a 4 inch pvc or fiberglas hose plumbed straight down below the stern...

no handles to pump......direct plumbing....

[paladin]

Put the potty in the cockpit....little seat under a cusion....and a 4 inch pvc or fiberglas hose plumbed straight down below the stern...

no handles to pump......direct plumbing....

[ahp]

Also illegal.

[ahp]

Also illegal.

[ahp]

Also illegal.

[paladin]

i thought an ill eagle wuz a sick bird......

[paladin]

i thought an ill eagle wuz a sick bird......

[paladin]

i thought an ill eagle wuz a sick bird......

[ahp]

Better yet look for a plastic diaper bucket. (They still make diaper buckets don't they?) They are bigger than the average bucket, and come with a lid that snaps on tight. Both features are obvious advantages.

They have another use too. When you lay up for the winter you can clean them out and use them for your wallpapering project. When you get tired of papering in the evening you can put the lid on and the paste will keep for a week or two. After that the paste starts to ferment. Bet you did't know that.

[ahp]

Better yet look for a plastic diaper bucket. (They still make diaper buckets don't they?) They are bigger than the average bucket, and come with a lid that snaps on tight. Both features are obvious advantages.

They have another use too. When you lay up for the winter you can clean them out and use them for your wallpapering project. When you get tired of papering in the evening you can put the lid on and the paste will keep for a week or two. After that the paste starts to ferment. Bet you did't know that.

[ahp]

Better yet look for a plastic diaper bucket. (They still make diaper buckets don't they?) They are bigger than the average bucket, and come with a lid that snaps on tight. Both features are obvious advantages.

They have another use too. When you lay up for the winter you can clean them out and use them for your wallpapering project. When you get tired of papering in the evening you can put the lid on and the paste will keep for a week or two. After that the paste starts to ferment. Bet you did't know that.

[Paulyboy]

Originally posted by Nicholas Carey:
[QB]You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

]If you're thinking of that way to go, probably easier to use the setup canoe builders use with router bits that cut A cove on one edge of each stave and a bullnose on the mating side of the next. All roundyround edges fitting together nicely, no sharp edges.

[Paulyboy]

Originally posted by Nicholas Carey:
[QB]You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

]If you're thinking of that way to go, probably easier to use the setup canoe builders use with router bits that cut A cove on one edge of each stave and a bullnose on the mating side of the next. All roundyround edges fitting together nicely, no sharp edges.

[Paulyboy]

Originally posted by Nicholas Carey:
[QB]You realize, of course, that there's nothing stopping you from making a birds-mouth bucket? :D

]If you're thinking of that way to go, probably easier to use the setup canoe builders use with router bits that cut A cove on one edge of each stave and a bullnose on the mating side of the next. All roundyround edges fitting together nicely, no sharp edges.

[paladin]

i'm just finishing up some big rope grummitts fer some canvas buckets.....would that help?

[paladin]

i'm just finishing up some big rope grummitts fer some canvas buckets.....would that help?

[paladin]

i'm just finishing up some big rope grummitts fer some canvas buckets.....would that help?

[Kermit]

I'm skeptical 'bout that Beaver Bucket. It appears in the photo that the hoops are pinned to the staves. How you going to tighten the thing up when it dries out a bit. I know, throw it in the saltchuck and let it swell. But I'm still wondering why a good whitecooper would pin the hoops.

[Kermit]

I'm skeptical 'bout that Beaver Bucket. It appears in the photo that the hoops are pinned to the staves. How you going to tighten the thing up when it dries out a bit. I know, throw it in the saltchuck and let it swell. But I'm still wondering why a good whitecooper would pin the hoops.

[Kermit]

I'm skeptical 'bout that Beaver Bucket. It appears in the photo that the hoops are pinned to the staves. How you going to tighten the thing up when it dries out a bit. I know, throw it in the saltchuck and let it swell. But I'm still wondering why a good whitecooper would pin the hoops.

[Dave Fleming]

Kermit, can't speak for the Cedar Bucket maker but,if you don't know just how the thing is going to be used, pinning the staves might be a bit of insurance by the maker.

In my bucket and tub I did put rivets through the hoops into every other stave. It was Port Orford Cedar, a fairly stable wood but, ya just never know how some folks will treat things.

Now Ken Comstock when he built ORCA he didn't hoop his tub staves. If memory serves, he 5200'd them in place with one hoop near the bottom.

We were both working in the dark waaaay back then when we made that stuff.

[Dave Fleming]

Kermit, can't speak for the Cedar Bucket maker but,if you don't know just how the thing is going to be used, pinning the staves might be a bit of insurance by the maker.

In my bucket and tub I did put rivets through the hoops into every other stave. It was Port Orford Cedar, a fairly stable wood but, ya just never know how some folks will treat things.

Now Ken Comstock when he built ORCA he didn't hoop his tub staves. If memory serves, he 5200'd them in place with one hoop near the bottom.

We were both working in the dark waaaay back then when we made that stuff.

[Dave Fleming]

Kermit, can't speak for the Cedar Bucket maker but,if you don't know just how the thing is going to be used, pinning the staves might be a bit of insurance by the maker.

In my bucket and tub I did put rivets through the hoops into every other stave. It was Port Orford Cedar, a fairly stable wood but, ya just never know how some folks will treat things.

Now Ken Comstock when he built ORCA he didn't hoop his tub staves. If memory serves, he 5200'd them in place with one hoop near the bottom.

We were both working in the dark waaaay back then when we made that stuff.

[Tom M.]

I seem to remember L.F.H saying his bucket had to be varnished with 8 or 10 coats inside and out. Also, he said to fill it with a little water, do your business, and then "flush" it over the side immediately.

[Tom M.]

I seem to remember L.F.H saying his bucket had to be varnished with 8 or 10 coats inside and out. Also, he said to fill it with a little water, do your business, and then "flush" it over the side immediately.

[Tom M.]

I seem to remember L.F.H saying his bucket had to be varnished with 8 or 10 coats inside and out. Also, he said to fill it with a little water, do your business, and then "flush" it over the side immediately.

[falmouthcutter]

Tom's posting regarding L. Francis Herreshoff's (LHF)views on the subject prompted me to reread some of his writings. In his book Sensible Cruising Designs, a complilation of articles he originally published in "Rudder" during the 1940's and 1950's, he discussed the cedar bucket in relationship to his H-28 design.

But to sit, eat, and sleep beside the toilet
is too much for me. Far, far rather would I
have a good wooden bucket which can easily
be kept clean. But best of all, the bucket
can be used wherever you choose. It might
be while you are at the helm when single-
handed, or in the cockpit at night when you
would not disturb either the tympanic or
olfactory nerves of your shipmate. With the
male gender it can often be used to
advantage in rough weather when held quite
high, and in case of mal de mer is much the
most practical arrangement.

On the cabin plan is shown a cedar bucket
with a removable, wide-rimmed top, for I
know there are those who like to take their
ease with their elbows on their knees. I
use a bucket with brass hopes, and remove
the metal bale and its ears and replace
these with a rope bale as shown on the
drawing. Keep the bucket well varnished and
use it when half full of water. There is
a certain way to empty it which requires
some skill. When the bucket is held down
quite close to the surface of the water it
should be suddenly turned right upside down.
Ah-h, I am glad that is over; now we will
take up things which are more fun to read
about.

Further, in LFH book The Compleat Cruiser, he not only discusses the cedar bucket again, this time in conjunction with his sailing vessel Rozinante, but provides sketches on making a seat that fits on top of the bucket. His views are as follows:

This is where the cedar bucket toilet comes
in, for this arrangement can be used where
desired and generally out of the cabin. It
can be used in the cockpit at night or in
the forepeak in the daytime. It has no
everlasting odor, and for those who are
affected be suggestion it may be kept hung
under the after deck, when the whole ship
can be as immaculate as a Greek temple. For
those who have a rather tender posterior
anatomy, the bucket can have an attachment
to increase the areas of contact, and the
accompanying sketches show both this device
in place and a dimensioned working drawing.
The ones I have made were of unfinished teak
and I suppose would function well for
several generations with no other care than
occasional scrubbing of towing.

This device will also work on the usual
galvanized iron bucket if you are careful
to keep clear of the projecting ears where
the bail is hung. One of the advantages of
the device is that a fine adjustment of the
aperture may be made which renders it con-
venient for different ages and sexes.

Well, there you have it. LFH provided not only a description of the bucket and attachments, but wrote perhaps the definitive users manual.

As an aside, both of these book contain much useful information from the pen of one of the most famous 20th Century American naval architects. His designs and personal approach to sailing reflected a simplicity that is often hard to find in today's sailing community. I wonder what he would have to say about today's sailboat designs and approach to sailing if he were in his prime today?

[falmouthcutter]

Tom's posting regarding L. Francis Herreshoff's (LHF)views on the subject prompted me to reread some of his writings. In his book Sensible Cruising Designs, a complilation of articles he originally published in "Rudder" during the 1940's and 1950's, he discussed the cedar bucket in relationship to his H-28 design.

But to sit, eat, and sleep beside the toilet
is too much for me. Far, far rather would I
have a good wooden bucket which can easily
be kept clean. But best of all, the bucket
can be used wherever you choose. It might
be while you are at the helm when single-
handed, or in the cockpit at night when you
would not disturb either the tympanic or
olfactory nerves of your shipmate. With the
male gender it can often be used to
advantage in rough weather when held quite
high, and in case of mal de mer is much the
most practical arrangement.

On the cabin plan is shown a cedar bucket
with a removable, wide-rimmed top, for I
know there are those who like to take their
ease with their elbows on their knees. I
use a bucket with brass hopes, and remove
the metal bale and its ears and replace
these with a rope bale as shown on the
drawing. Keep the bucket well varnished and
use it when half full of water. There is
a certain way to empty it which requires
some skill. When the bucket is held down
quite close to the surface of the water it
should be suddenly turned right upside down.
Ah-h, I am glad that is over; now we will
take up things which are more fun to read
about.

Further, in LFH book The Compleat Cruiser, he not only discusses the cedar bucket again, this time in conjunction with his sailing vessel Rozinante, but provides sketches on making a seat that fits on top of the bucket. His views are as follows:

This is where the cedar bucket toilet comes
in, for this arrangement can be used where
desired and generally out of the cabin. It
can be used in the cockpit at night or in
the forepeak in the daytime. It has no
everlasting odor, and for those who are
affected be suggestion it may be kept hung
under the after deck, when the whole ship
can be as immaculate as a Greek temple. For
those who have a rather tender posterior
anatomy, the bucket can have an attachment
to increase the areas of contact, and the
accompanying sketches show both this device
in place and a dimensioned working drawing.
The ones I have made were of unfinished teak
and I suppose would function well for
several generations with no other care than
occasional scrubbing of towing.

This device will also work on the usual
galvanized iron bucket if you are careful
to keep clear of the projecting ears where
the bail is hung. One of the advantages of
the device is that a fine adjustment of the
aperture may be made which renders it con-
venient for different ages and sexes.

Well, there you have it. LFH provided not only a description of the bucket and attachments, but wrote perhaps the definitive users manual.

As an aside, both of these book contain much useful information from the pen of one of the most famous 20th Century American naval architects. His designs and personal approach to sailing reflected a simplicity that is often hard to find in today's sailing community. I wonder what he would have to say about today's sailboat designs and approach to sailing if he were in his prime today?

[falmouthcutter]

Tom's posting regarding L. Francis Herreshoff's (LHF)views on the subject prompted me to reread some of his writings. In his book Sensible Cruising Designs, a complilation of articles he originally published in "Rudder" during the 1940's and 1950's, he discussed the cedar bucket in relationship to his H-28 design.

But to sit, eat, and sleep beside the toilet
is too much for me. Far, far rather would I
have a good wooden bucket which can easily
be kept clean. But best of all, the bucket
can be used wherever you choose. It might
be while you are at the helm when single-
handed, or in the cockpit at night when you
would not disturb either the tympanic or
olfactory nerves of your shipmate. With the
male gender it can often be used to
advantage in rough weather when held quite
high, and in case of mal de mer is much the
most practical arrangement.

On the cabin plan is shown a cedar bucket
with a removable, wide-rimmed top, for I
know there are those who like to take their
ease with their elbows on their knees. I
use a bucket with brass hopes, and remove
the metal bale and its ears and replace
these with a rope bale as shown on the
drawing. Keep the bucket well varnished and
use it when half full of water. There is
a certain way to empty it which requires
some skill. When the bucket is held down
quite close to the surface of the water it
should be suddenly turned right upside down.
Ah-h, I am glad that is over; now we will
take up things which are more fun to read
about.

Further, in LFH book The Compleat Cruiser, he not only discusses the cedar bucket again, this time in conjunction with his sailing vessel Rozinante, but provides sketches on making a seat that fits on top of the bucket. His views are as follows:

This is where the cedar bucket toilet comes
in, for this arrangement can be used where
desired and generally out of the cabin. It
can be used in the cockpit at night or in
the forepeak in the daytime. It has no
everlasting odor, and for those who are
affected be suggestion it may be kept hung
under the after deck, when the whole ship
can be as immaculate as a Greek temple. For
those who have a rather tender posterior
anatomy, the bucket can have an attachment
to increase the areas of contact, and the
accompanying sketches show both this device
in place and a dimensioned working drawing.
The ones I have made were of unfinished teak
and I suppose would function well for
several generations with no other care than
occasional scrubbing of towing.

This device will also work on the usual
galvanized iron bucket if you are careful
to keep clear of the projecting ears where
the bail is hung. One of the advantages of
the device is that a fine adjustment of the
aperture may be made which renders it con-
venient for different ages and sexes.

Well, there you have it. LFH provided not only a description of the bucket and attachments, but wrote perhaps the definitive users manual.

As an aside, both of these book contain much useful information from the pen of one of the most famous 20th Century American naval architects. His designs and personal approach to sailing reflected a simplicity that is often hard to find in today's sailing community. I wonder what he would have to say about today's sailboat designs and approach to sailing if he were in his prime today?