Mallet Source?

[Garrett Lowell]

I'm looking for a lignum vitae headed mallet. Anybody have a source to recommend?

[Garrett Lowell]

I'm looking for a lignum vitae headed mallet. Anybody have a source to recommend?

[Garrett Lowell]

I'm looking for a lignum vitae headed mallet. Anybody have a source to recommend?

[Doug Wood]

According to the Lee Valley website, lignum vitae is hard to come by due to over harvesting. The mallets they're selling are made of oxhorn bucida.

[Doug Wood]

According to the Lee Valley website, lignum vitae is hard to come by due to over harvesting. The mallets they're selling are made of oxhorn bucida.

[Doug Wood]

According to the Lee Valley website, lignum vitae is hard to come by due to over harvesting. The mallets they're selling are made of oxhorn bucida.

[Donn]

Highland Hardware ("") has one on sale for $34.99.

<img src= "http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/ProductImages/handcarving/141903.jpg">

[Donn]

Highland Hardware ("") has one on sale for $34.99.

<img src= "http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/ProductImages/handcarving/141903.jpg">

[Donn]

Highland Hardware ("") has one on sale for $34.99.

<img src= "http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/ProductImages/handcarving/141903.jpg">

[Thad Van Gilder]

yeah, um, how about you just turn one one your lathe? I have gotten lots of lignum from L and M Lignum vitae, the primary importer in New Jersey.
I can't find their website right now

but this place looks good too:
www.righteouswoods.net (http://www.righteouswoods.net)

And I just found this place by the bay bridge in annapolis.

-Thad

[Thad Van Gilder]

yeah, um, how about you just turn one one your lathe? I have gotten lots of lignum from L and M Lignum vitae, the primary importer in New Jersey.
I can't find their website right now

but this place looks good too:
www.righteouswoods.net (http://www.righteouswoods.net)

And I just found this place by the bay bridge in annapolis.

-Thad

[Thad Van Gilder]

yeah, um, how about you just turn one one your lathe? I have gotten lots of lignum from L and M Lignum vitae, the primary importer in New Jersey.
I can't find their website right now

but this place looks good too:
www.righteouswoods.net (http://www.righteouswoods.net)

And I just found this place by the bay bridge in annapolis.

-Thad

[Gary E]

Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..

[Gary E]

Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..

[Gary E]

Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..

[Donn]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
You have nothing to worry about. :rolleyes:

[Donn]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
You have nothing to worry about. :rolleyes:

[Donn]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
You have nothing to worry about. :rolleyes:

[Gary E]

Seems you do...

get hired out as a RentADonn yet?? :D :D

[Gary E]

Seems you do...

get hired out as a RentADonn yet?? :D :D

[Gary E]

Seems you do...

get hired out as a RentADonn yet?? :D :D

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Donn and Doug.

Thad,
How about a little deductive reasoning?
I don't have a lathe, otherwise I *would* turn one myself. I could go out and spend alot of money on a new or even used lathe and the accompanying turning tools to turn out my own mallet and then spend the time to do so, or I could (gasp) spend 35 dollars or so on one that somebody else, having already spent the big bucks on a nice lathe and the accompanying turning tools, had turned. Also, turning is not one of my interests, or I'm sure I would have found a way to put a lathe in my shop. (Notice that I didn't ask for a source for wooden planes? That's because I have a whole log of lignum vitae, of which I'm using to make handplanes as I need them.)

Gary,
I've been using a big chunk of maple for a pounder, which works ok, but is ugly, sort of square, doesn't fit right in my hand, is starting to split, and I don't really feel like spending my already rare and precious shop time on refining it, and I don't want to beat up my tools using a framing hammer. Like everyone, I enjoy nicely made tools, which is why I'm asking for a source.

So am I dumber or smarter for making this decision?

Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Donn and Doug.

Thad,
How about a little deductive reasoning?
I don't have a lathe, otherwise I *would* turn one myself. I could go out and spend alot of money on a new or even used lathe and the accompanying turning tools to turn out my own mallet and then spend the time to do so, or I could (gasp) spend 35 dollars or so on one that somebody else, having already spent the big bucks on a nice lathe and the accompanying turning tools, had turned. Also, turning is not one of my interests, or I'm sure I would have found a way to put a lathe in my shop. (Notice that I didn't ask for a source for wooden planes? That's because I have a whole log of lignum vitae, of which I'm using to make handplanes as I need them.)

Gary,
I've been using a big chunk of maple for a pounder, which works ok, but is ugly, sort of square, doesn't fit right in my hand, is starting to split, and I don't really feel like spending my already rare and precious shop time on refining it, and I don't want to beat up my tools using a framing hammer. Like everyone, I enjoy nicely made tools, which is why I'm asking for a source.

So am I dumber or smarter for making this decision?

Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks Donn and Doug.

Thad,
How about a little deductive reasoning?
I don't have a lathe, otherwise I *would* turn one myself. I could go out and spend alot of money on a new or even used lathe and the accompanying turning tools to turn out my own mallet and then spend the time to do so, or I could (gasp) spend 35 dollars or so on one that somebody else, having already spent the big bucks on a nice lathe and the accompanying turning tools, had turned. Also, turning is not one of my interests, or I'm sure I would have found a way to put a lathe in my shop. (Notice that I didn't ask for a source for wooden planes? That's because I have a whole log of lignum vitae, of which I'm using to make handplanes as I need them.)

Gary,
I've been using a big chunk of maple for a pounder, which works ok, but is ugly, sort of square, doesn't fit right in my hand, is starting to split, and I don't really feel like spending my already rare and precious shop time on refining it, and I don't want to beat up my tools using a framing hammer. Like everyone, I enjoy nicely made tools, which is why I'm asking for a source.

So am I dumber or smarter for making this decision?

Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..Well, I will say this...I know from experience that there are some subtlties to the shape of a mallet that make a big difference, so a good mallet is quite a bit more than a hunk of wood. True, if you have a lathe, then by copying an existing mallet it would not be too hard to make a good mallet, but by the time you've aquired a suitable piece of wood and put the time into turning a mallet the cost of the purchased mallet might not seem so steep.

A more valid point would be, I think, how much difference there is between a mallet made from an expensive wood like lignum vitae and a mallet made of a somewhat lower cost wood.

Note: I was writing the above when Garrett posted his message...

[ 12-15-2005, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..Well, I will say this...I know from experience that there are some subtlties to the shape of a mallet that make a big difference, so a good mallet is quite a bit more than a hunk of wood. True, if you have a lathe, then by copying an existing mallet it would not be too hard to make a good mallet, but by the time you've aquired a suitable piece of wood and put the time into turning a mallet the cost of the purchased mallet might not seem so steep.

A more valid point would be, I think, how much difference there is between a mallet made from an expensive wood like lignum vitae and a mallet made of a somewhat lower cost wood.

Note: I was writing the above when Garrett posted his message...

[ 12-15-2005, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Bruce Hooke]

Originally posted by Gary E:
Do we get dumber as we get older??
If a kid needed a tool to beat on something the first thing he would do is pick up what ever hunk of wood he see's laying around...not look for a way to blow 35$ on a glorified pounder..
sheeesh..Well, I will say this...I know from experience that there are some subtlties to the shape of a mallet that make a big difference, so a good mallet is quite a bit more than a hunk of wood. True, if you have a lathe, then by copying an existing mallet it would not be too hard to make a good mallet, but by the time you've aquired a suitable piece of wood and put the time into turning a mallet the cost of the purchased mallet might not seem so steep.

A more valid point would be, I think, how much difference there is between a mallet made from an expensive wood like lignum vitae and a mallet made of a somewhat lower cost wood.

Note: I was writing the above when Garrett posted his message...

[ 12-15-2005, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: Bruce Hooke ]

[Garrett Lowell]

Sorry Thad and Gary, I shouldn't have over reacted.

Bruce, I asked about the lignum vitae because I really like the wood.

[Garrett Lowell]

Sorry Thad and Gary, I shouldn't have over reacted.

Bruce, I asked about the lignum vitae because I really like the wood.

[Garrett Lowell]

Sorry Thad and Gary, I shouldn't have over reacted.

Bruce, I asked about the lignum vitae because I really like the wood.

[Donn]

LV's gorgeous wood. I have an old duckpin bowling ball up in the attic, made from it. It'd make quite a mallet, I'd say, although at ~3.5#, maybe a tad heavy.

[Donn]

LV's gorgeous wood. I have an old duckpin bowling ball up in the attic, made from it. It'd make quite a mallet, I'd say, although at ~3.5#, maybe a tad heavy.

[Donn]

LV's gorgeous wood. I have an old duckpin bowling ball up in the attic, made from it. It'd make quite a mallet, I'd say, although at ~3.5#, maybe a tad heavy.

[StevenBauer]

I've actually made a mallet for timberframing from an old bowling pin. smile.gif

Garret, I've got the lathe and the interest in turning. If you send me enough Lignum Vitie for two mallets I'll make one for each of us.

Or, I'm getting the plans from Clint for the mallet that the boatbuilding students at the Landing School used in their mallet making assignment last week. I have about twenty pieces of ipe that are 5/4" x 6" x 1'. I could probaly make you one of those for less than $35. smile.gif Of course shipping ipe might cost a bundle. :D

Steven

[StevenBauer]

I've actually made a mallet for timberframing from an old bowling pin. smile.gif

Garret, I've got the lathe and the interest in turning. If you send me enough Lignum Vitie for two mallets I'll make one for each of us.

Or, I'm getting the plans from Clint for the mallet that the boatbuilding students at the Landing School used in their mallet making assignment last week. I have about twenty pieces of ipe that are 5/4" x 6" x 1'. I could probaly make you one of those for less than $35. smile.gif Of course shipping ipe might cost a bundle. :D

Steven

[StevenBauer]

I've actually made a mallet for timberframing from an old bowling pin. smile.gif

Garret, I've got the lathe and the interest in turning. If you send me enough Lignum Vitie for two mallets I'll make one for each of us.

Or, I'm getting the plans from Clint for the mallet that the boatbuilding students at the Landing School used in their mallet making assignment last week. I have about twenty pieces of ipe that are 5/4" x 6" x 1'. I could probaly make you one of those for less than $35. smile.gif Of course shipping ipe might cost a bundle. :D

Steven

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Garrett Lowell:
Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.Full moon, Garrett :eek:

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Garrett Lowell:
Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.Full moon, Garrett :eek:

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Garrett Lowell:
Sorry for the rant, but Thad's condescension and Gary's downright ugliness really chafed me.Full moon, Garrett :eek:

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks for the offer, Steven, I really appreciate that. I already sprung for the Highland Hardware version. If it doesn't fit my needs, I'll take you up on the offer.

Hughman, true about the full moon. And a long, stressful day at work followed by a hairy, slippery ride home.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks for the offer, Steven, I really appreciate that. I already sprung for the Highland Hardware version. If it doesn't fit my needs, I'll take you up on the offer.

Hughman, true about the full moon. And a long, stressful day at work followed by a hairy, slippery ride home.

[Garrett Lowell]

Thanks for the offer, Steven, I really appreciate that. I already sprung for the Highland Hardware version. If it doesn't fit my needs, I'll take you up on the offer.

Hughman, true about the full moon. And a long, stressful day at work followed by a hairy, slippery ride home.

[Thad Van Gilder]

I'm sorry.
when I used to teach boatbuilding classes at the jersey shore, I always gave a little lesson on planemaking and mallet making, It was a way for the inexperienced to gain specialized tools in a cheap or free way.

And you don't need a lathe. I worked out a system for a gentleman to turn a mallet head on his drill press, and I had several students that made square head mallets without any turning at all.

And, although I like lignum, any hard, curly grained wood will do just fine. Included cherry scavenged from a pallet at home depot. done that.

-Thad

[ 12-16-2005, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Thad Van Gilder ]

[Thad Van Gilder]

I'm sorry.
when I used to teach boatbuilding classes at the jersey shore, I always gave a little lesson on planemaking and mallet making, It was a way for the inexperienced to gain specialized tools in a cheap or free way.

And you don't need a lathe. I worked out a system for a gentleman to turn a mallet head on his drill press, and I had several students that made square head mallets without any turning at all.

And, although I like lignum, any hard, curly grained wood will do just fine. Included cherry scavenged from a pallet at home depot. done that.

-Thad

[ 12-16-2005, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Thad Van Gilder ]

[Thad Van Gilder]

I'm sorry.
when I used to teach boatbuilding classes at the jersey shore, I always gave a little lesson on planemaking and mallet making, It was a way for the inexperienced to gain specialized tools in a cheap or free way.

And you don't need a lathe. I worked out a system for a gentleman to turn a mallet head on his drill press, and I had several students that made square head mallets without any turning at all.

And, although I like lignum, any hard, curly grained wood will do just fine. Included cherry scavenged from a pallet at home depot. done that.

-Thad

[ 12-16-2005, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: Thad Van Gilder ]

[ssor]

Dogwood is very good for making mallets.

[ssor]

Dogwood is very good for making mallets.

[ssor]

Dogwood is very good for making mallets.

[pipefitter]

What about white oak? It is definitely strong enough. I have a piece that is 1-3/4" thick x 3" wide x 18" L and I have been womping welded aluminum structures with it for 3-4 yrs and it is still the same as when I got it from a pallet skid. It's still rough sawn and ugly but is why I still have it. Someone would have taken it if it was pretty. It's definitely heavy enough and made in USA. smile.gif

Ok,maybe not and I am sure there is a reason(other than the poster prefers LV) why white oak can't be used to make a mallet?

[pipefitter]

What about white oak? It is definitely strong enough. I have a piece that is 1-3/4" thick x 3" wide x 18" L and I have been womping welded aluminum structures with it for 3-4 yrs and it is still the same as when I got it from a pallet skid. It's still rough sawn and ugly but is why I still have it. Someone would have taken it if it was pretty. It's definitely heavy enough and made in USA. smile.gif

Ok,maybe not and I am sure there is a reason(other than the poster prefers LV) why white oak can't be used to make a mallet?

[pipefitter]

What about white oak? It is definitely strong enough. I have a piece that is 1-3/4" thick x 3" wide x 18" L and I have been womping welded aluminum structures with it for 3-4 yrs and it is still the same as when I got it from a pallet skid. It's still rough sawn and ugly but is why I still have it. Someone would have taken it if it was pretty. It's definitely heavy enough and made in USA. smile.gif

Ok,maybe not and I am sure there is a reason(other than the poster prefers LV) why white oak can't be used to make a mallet?

[Bruce Hooke]

As I understand it, there are a couple of advantages to the tropical hardwoods that are often used for nice mallets:

1. They are dense, even denser than white oak, so the mallet can be smaller while still having the same impact.

2. They have natural oils in them that greatly reduce shrinking and swelling, which reduces the chances that the mallet will develop cracks.

A lot of this comes down to what you are doing. A rough white oak mallet clearly works just fine for wacking on bits of metal. If you are trying to carve a mahogany nameboard for a boat then you may want a somewhat more refined tool.

[Bruce Hooke]

As I understand it, there are a couple of advantages to the tropical hardwoods that are often used for nice mallets:

1. They are dense, even denser than white oak, so the mallet can be smaller while still having the same impact.

2. They have natural oils in them that greatly reduce shrinking and swelling, which reduces the chances that the mallet will develop cracks.

A lot of this comes down to what you are doing. A rough white oak mallet clearly works just fine for wacking on bits of metal. If you are trying to carve a mahogany nameboard for a boat then you may want a somewhat more refined tool.

[Bruce Hooke]

As I understand it, there are a couple of advantages to the tropical hardwoods that are often used for nice mallets:

1. They are dense, even denser than white oak, so the mallet can be smaller while still having the same impact.

2. They have natural oils in them that greatly reduce shrinking and swelling, which reduces the chances that the mallet will develop cracks.

A lot of this comes down to what you are doing. A rough white oak mallet clearly works just fine for wacking on bits of metal. If you are trying to carve a mahogany nameboard for a boat then you may want a somewhat more refined tool.

[Dave Fleming]

Not from first hand experience but, have been told that Apple Root makes good mallets.

Hornbeam and Osage Orange work well for me.

[ 12-16-2005, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

Not from first hand experience but, have been told that Apple Root makes good mallets.

Hornbeam and Osage Orange work well for me.

[ 12-16-2005, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Dave Fleming]

Not from first hand experience but, have been told that Apple Root makes good mallets.

Hornbeam and Osage Orange work well for me.

[ 12-16-2005, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: Dave Fleming ]

[Bob Smalser]

Any hardwood that doesn't easily split'll make a fine mallet. I use diffuse-porous Madrone or Bigleaf Maple, because I have a lot of it. You can rasp one out if you don't have a lathe....mount it in the drill press to mark the high spots for a perfect round.

You can control the weight and balance of the mallet much better with poured lead rather than rare and expensive wood.

Or simply ask to use a neighbor's lathe for 30 minutes.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121962964.jpg

Here's an easier one....the head can be made from four pieces...teo cheeks and two fillersd...glued together rather than one, so you can use any hardwood scrap:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121963733.jpg

[ 12-16-2005, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bob Smalser]

Any hardwood that doesn't easily split'll make a fine mallet. I use diffuse-porous Madrone or Bigleaf Maple, because I have a lot of it. You can rasp one out if you don't have a lathe....mount it in the drill press to mark the high spots for a perfect round.

You can control the weight and balance of the mallet much better with poured lead rather than rare and expensive wood.

Or simply ask to use a neighbor's lathe for 30 minutes.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121962964.jpg

Here's an easier one....the head can be made from four pieces...teo cheeks and two fillersd...glued together rather than one, so you can use any hardwood scrap:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121963733.jpg

[ 12-16-2005, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Bob Smalser]

Any hardwood that doesn't easily split'll make a fine mallet. I use diffuse-porous Madrone or Bigleaf Maple, because I have a lot of it. You can rasp one out if you don't have a lathe....mount it in the drill press to mark the high spots for a perfect round.

You can control the weight and balance of the mallet much better with poured lead rather than rare and expensive wood.

Or simply ask to use a neighbor's lathe for 30 minutes.

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121962964.jpg

Here's an easier one....the head can be made from four pieces...teo cheeks and two fillersd...glued together rather than one, so you can use any hardwood scrap:

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/2594266/121963733.jpg

[ 12-16-2005, 02:21 PM: Message edited by: Bob Smalser ]

[Paul Girouard]

Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.

[Paul Girouard]

Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.

[Paul Girouard]

Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.

[Hal Forsen]

I have a dead blow hammer I like for certain applications but for chisel driving and such I like a wood mallet.
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/photos/data/500/104795IMGP1070-med.JPG
I made this one with hand tools out of a green chunk of our coastal live oak which is dense and heavy. After I had the basic shape it went into a paper bag with the accumulated shavings for several months to dry nice and slow. It ain't as pretty as Smalser's but it works just fine.
HF

[Hal Forsen]

I have a dead blow hammer I like for certain applications but for chisel driving and such I like a wood mallet.
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/photos/data/500/104795IMGP1070-med.JPG
I made this one with hand tools out of a green chunk of our coastal live oak which is dense and heavy. After I had the basic shape it went into a paper bag with the accumulated shavings for several months to dry nice and slow. It ain't as pretty as Smalser's but it works just fine.
HF

[Hal Forsen]

I have a dead blow hammer I like for certain applications but for chisel driving and such I like a wood mallet.
http://www.allcoastsportfishing.com/photos/data/500/104795IMGP1070-med.JPG
I made this one with hand tools out of a green chunk of our coastal live oak which is dense and heavy. After I had the basic shape it went into a paper bag with the accumulated shavings for several months to dry nice and slow. It ain't as pretty as Smalser's but it works just fine.
HF

[ssor]

Originally posted by Paul Girouard:
Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.They are covered with Kapowthane. ;)

[ssor]

Originally posted by Paul Girouard:
Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.They are covered with Kapowthane. ;)

[ssor]

Originally posted by Paul Girouard:
Not wood but they work . http://www.woodcraft.com/images/Family/web971.jpg

Dead Blow Mallets
Provide a lot of force with little damage to surfaces. The secret to this is in the non-marring construction of the head which is shot filled to deliver a solid, no bounce strike. Offered in three sizes: 8 ounce with 7/8" face and 10" length, 14 ounce with 1-1/4" face and 10-1/2" length, and 28 ounce with 2-3/4" face and 13" length. Taiwan.They are covered with Kapowthane. ;)

[landlocked sailor]

Not wood, but here's my favorite for chisel bashing. http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/chisels/05e1401s1.jpg Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Not wood, but here's my favorite for chisel bashing. http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/chisels/05e1401s1.jpg Rick

[landlocked sailor]

Not wood, but here's my favorite for chisel bashing. http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/chisels/05e1401s1.jpg Rick

[ssor]

All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.

[ssor]

All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.

[ssor]

All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by ssor:
All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/80534568.jpg

Easy to do.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=smalser&file=articles_447.shtml

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by ssor:
All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/80534568.jpg

Easy to do.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=smalser&file=articles_447.shtml

[Bob Smalser]

Originally posted by ssor:
All of the wood handled chisels that I strike I have glued a shoesole leather disk to the end of the handle. That keeps me from battering the end.http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL12/1104763/5090019/80534568.jpg

Easy to do.

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=smalser&file=articles_447.shtml

[Old Bingey]

I make mallets out of live oak. The bottom of limbs is denser than the top and on big limbs, the grain is compressed and convoluted and that makes the wood hard to split. It is very slow to season, though, so I cut out the blank and let it lie around for a long time in the shop so the water can evaporate out the end grain. I have some that are thirty years old. I like little mallets for little chisels and big mallets for big chisels. I have one that I use to drive all steel chisels for mortising hard longleaf pine. Live oak is tough stuff and heavy and dense... hits hard.

[ 12-17-2005, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

I make mallets out of live oak. The bottom of limbs is denser than the top and on big limbs, the grain is compressed and convoluted and that makes the wood hard to split. It is very slow to season, though, so I cut out the blank and let it lie around for a long time in the shop so the water can evaporate out the end grain. I have some that are thirty years old. I like little mallets for little chisels and big mallets for big chisels. I have one that I use to drive all steel chisels for mortising hard longleaf pine. Live oak is tough stuff and heavy and dense... hits hard.

[ 12-17-2005, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Old Bingey]

I make mallets out of live oak. The bottom of limbs is denser than the top and on big limbs, the grain is compressed and convoluted and that makes the wood hard to split. It is very slow to season, though, so I cut out the blank and let it lie around for a long time in the shop so the water can evaporate out the end grain. I have some that are thirty years old. I like little mallets for little chisels and big mallets for big chisels. I have one that I use to drive all steel chisels for mortising hard longleaf pine. Live oak is tough stuff and heavy and dense... hits hard.

[ 12-17-2005, 04:51 PM: Message edited by: Old Bingey ]

[Stiletto]

I have found the square ended mallets quite common here, the round ones less so. What are the advantages of the round ones over the square?

[Stiletto]

I have found the square ended mallets quite common here, the round ones less so. What are the advantages of the round ones over the square?

[Stiletto]

I have found the square ended mallets quite common here, the round ones less so. What are the advantages of the round ones over the square?

[pipefitter]

I was to understand that the square ones were for heavier work and less likely to glance off of a tool.More for a swinging action. The round ones were more for tapping or bumping.I think a square one would work in either case but the round ones are always in the right direction. Probably a reason more complicated than my understanding though.
It could be that's what the shape the wood was in scraps that they had to make one with.Or a round one from not much more than scraping the bark off of a piece of a log.Think about it.You're cleaning up your leftovers and you come across a piece of drop that you notice is unusually dense or heavy.....

[ 12-17-2005, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

I was to understand that the square ones were for heavier work and less likely to glance off of a tool.More for a swinging action. The round ones were more for tapping or bumping.I think a square one would work in either case but the round ones are always in the right direction. Probably a reason more complicated than my understanding though.
It could be that's what the shape the wood was in scraps that they had to make one with.Or a round one from not much more than scraping the bark off of a piece of a log.Think about it.You're cleaning up your leftovers and you come across a piece of drop that you notice is unusually dense or heavy.....

[ 12-17-2005, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

I was to understand that the square ones were for heavier work and less likely to glance off of a tool.More for a swinging action. The round ones were more for tapping or bumping.I think a square one would work in either case but the round ones are always in the right direction. Probably a reason more complicated than my understanding though.
It could be that's what the shape the wood was in scraps that they had to make one with.Or a round one from not much more than scraping the bark off of a piece of a log.Think about it.You're cleaning up your leftovers and you come across a piece of drop that you notice is unusually dense or heavy.....

[ 12-17-2005, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[Bob Smalser]

I make both, and generally use the square mallets for assembly and the round mallets for chisels.

I find I can pay more attention to the chisel and less to the mallet with the round ones. Not a big difference, but enough to justify making the mallet. Moreover, my round mallets are stronger and are more easily filled with lead, which helps in mortising significantly.

[Bob Smalser]

I make both, and generally use the square mallets for assembly and the round mallets for chisels.

I find I can pay more attention to the chisel and less to the mallet with the round ones. Not a big difference, but enough to justify making the mallet. Moreover, my round mallets are stronger and are more easily filled with lead, which helps in mortising significantly.

[Bob Smalser]

I make both, and generally use the square mallets for assembly and the round mallets for chisels.

I find I can pay more attention to the chisel and less to the mallet with the round ones. Not a big difference, but enough to justify making the mallet. Moreover, my round mallets are stronger and are more easily filled with lead, which helps in mortising significantly.

[Donn]

A mallet with a flat face won't roll off the bench, and one with a flat top can be stood up so you can find it on a messy bench.

I made this one, over 30 years ago, from the root cluster of a grubbed out Hop Hornbeam sapling. It's real hard. It has a flat top, and the backside is also flat. It's served well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/donnwest/2005-12-17003.jpg

[Donn]

A mallet with a flat face won't roll off the bench, and one with a flat top can be stood up so you can find it on a messy bench.

I made this one, over 30 years ago, from the root cluster of a grubbed out Hop Hornbeam sapling. It's real hard. It has a flat top, and the backside is also flat. It's served well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/donnwest/2005-12-17003.jpg

[Donn]

A mallet with a flat face won't roll off the bench, and one with a flat top can be stood up so you can find it on a messy bench.

I made this one, over 30 years ago, from the root cluster of a grubbed out Hop Hornbeam sapling. It's real hard. It has a flat top, and the backside is also flat. It's served well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v54/donnwest/2005-12-17003.jpg

[la.pirogue]

slow growing trees as fruit trees, I like persimmon, live oak for big stuff.

[la.pirogue]

slow growing trees as fruit trees, I like persimmon, live oak for big stuff.

[la.pirogue]

slow growing trees as fruit trees, I like persimmon, live oak for big stuff.

[Shortman]

This antique tool dealer has a couple on his website finetoolj.com.

[Shortman]

This antique tool dealer has a couple on his website finetoolj.com.

[Shortman]

This antique tool dealer has a couple on his website finetoolj.com.