Dream Shop

[SWA]

Next summer I will finally have the ability to build the shop that I want. Up to now I have made do with a one car garage. Does anyone know of plans/designs that I can start looking at in order to figure out what is right for me. Generally looking at something in the 2-3 car garage range but can be taller. Thanks,

Steve

[SWA]

Next summer I will finally have the ability to build the shop that I want. Up to now I have made do with a one car garage. Does anyone know of plans/designs that I can start looking at in order to figure out what is right for me. Generally looking at something in the 2-3 car garage range but can be taller. Thanks,

Steve

[SWA]

Next summer I will finally have the ability to build the shop that I want. Up to now I have made do with a one car garage. Does anyone know of plans/designs that I can start looking at in order to figure out what is right for me. Generally looking at something in the 2-3 car garage range but can be taller. Thanks,

Steve

[Dave Fleming]

Fine Woodworking has a book on Shops bye Scott Landis the web site is at Taunton Press.
Lots of ideas in there.
IMOOP, think flow of material based upon intended type of work.

[Dave Fleming]

Fine Woodworking has a book on Shops bye Scott Landis the web site is at Taunton Press.
Lots of ideas in there.
IMOOP, think flow of material based upon intended type of work.

[Dave Fleming]

Fine Woodworking has a book on Shops bye Scott Landis the web site is at Taunton Press.
Lots of ideas in there.
IMOOP, think flow of material based upon intended type of work.

[whb]

SWA

Get out some graph paper. I like to think of 1/4" = 1'.

Then, think of all the tools you might someday have.

Then put them on the graph paper separated by the largest stock you will use in each tool plus 25% for handling. Remember both input and output sides.

Add in some space for a good sized workbench a moaning chair and a wood burning stove if you are so inclined.

That should give you all the room you need for a dream shop.

You may want to put some of your tools on wheels for better flexibility. Also, gives you the option of moving them out of the middle of the floor when you are using it for lofting.

Good luck.

Howard

[whb]

SWA

Get out some graph paper. I like to think of 1/4" = 1'.

Then, think of all the tools you might someday have.

Then put them on the graph paper separated by the largest stock you will use in each tool plus 25% for handling. Remember both input and output sides.

Add in some space for a good sized workbench a moaning chair and a wood burning stove if you are so inclined.

That should give you all the room you need for a dream shop.

You may want to put some of your tools on wheels for better flexibility. Also, gives you the option of moving them out of the middle of the floor when you are using it for lofting.

Good luck.

Howard

[whb]

SWA

Get out some graph paper. I like to think of 1/4" = 1'.

Then, think of all the tools you might someday have.

Then put them on the graph paper separated by the largest stock you will use in each tool plus 25% for handling. Remember both input and output sides.

Add in some space for a good sized workbench a moaning chair and a wood burning stove if you are so inclined.

That should give you all the room you need for a dream shop.

You may want to put some of your tools on wheels for better flexibility. Also, gives you the option of moving them out of the middle of the floor when you are using it for lofting.

Good luck.

Howard

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

When it comes to the serious dream shop, I always include a bunk for sleeping.. in case Debi finds out how much tools really are. :D Any one find a particularly nice set up for work benches? layout not design.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

When it comes to the serious dream shop, I always include a bunk for sleeping.. in case Debi finds out how much tools really are. :D Any one find a particularly nice set up for work benches? layout not design.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

When it comes to the serious dream shop, I always include a bunk for sleeping.. in case Debi finds out how much tools really are. :D Any one find a particularly nice set up for work benches? layout not design.

[jason stumpf]

as far as layout and space goes, its anyone's call what is best. besides, it depends what you will be doing. however, i would suggest you consider lighting, comfort, and mechanical systems.

most of us like natural lighting when we can get it, but the sun goes down sometimes, so make sure your shop is well lit everywhere. and then make it brighter still! dim shops make accurate layout and fussy work extra hard. also consider light placement, as shadows can be just as problematic.

comfort usually means HVAC. i guess in texas you don't worry much about heating, but you may consider cooling a neccessity. either way insulation in the walls and ceilings should be a must. (it also cuts down on noise) and don't overlook the value of ceiling fans in summer. (the're good for pushing heat down in winter as well.) you probably will be building on a slab, but you might consider wood floors over that to relieve you feet/knees/back. believe me, concrete is not anyone's friend. i've seen floor systems over slabs that are 2x6's with double 1/2" subfloor glued and screwed that are super. the reason is that you can run all your wiring and dust collection through the floors instead of all over the walls and ceilings.

which brings me to mechanicals. if you can get water out to the shop, at least install a slop sink, if not a head. dirty feet through house is bad. run way more electricity than you think you will ever need. think of a good dust collection system as being as important as the roof and walls. i've worked in shops with no dust collection and shops with, and its difficult to think of breathing all that dust when you can avoid it. if you can run everything through the floor as mentioned above, great; if not, at least run it. you'll be very happy you did.

boy i sure am spending you money, eh? well you said *dream* shop right?!?
jason

[jason stumpf]

as far as layout and space goes, its anyone's call what is best. besides, it depends what you will be doing. however, i would suggest you consider lighting, comfort, and mechanical systems.

most of us like natural lighting when we can get it, but the sun goes down sometimes, so make sure your shop is well lit everywhere. and then make it brighter still! dim shops make accurate layout and fussy work extra hard. also consider light placement, as shadows can be just as problematic.

comfort usually means HVAC. i guess in texas you don't worry much about heating, but you may consider cooling a neccessity. either way insulation in the walls and ceilings should be a must. (it also cuts down on noise) and don't overlook the value of ceiling fans in summer. (the're good for pushing heat down in winter as well.) you probably will be building on a slab, but you might consider wood floors over that to relieve you feet/knees/back. believe me, concrete is not anyone's friend. i've seen floor systems over slabs that are 2x6's with double 1/2" subfloor glued and screwed that are super. the reason is that you can run all your wiring and dust collection through the floors instead of all over the walls and ceilings.

which brings me to mechanicals. if you can get water out to the shop, at least install a slop sink, if not a head. dirty feet through house is bad. run way more electricity than you think you will ever need. think of a good dust collection system as being as important as the roof and walls. i've worked in shops with no dust collection and shops with, and its difficult to think of breathing all that dust when you can avoid it. if you can run everything through the floor as mentioned above, great; if not, at least run it. you'll be very happy you did.

boy i sure am spending you money, eh? well you said *dream* shop right?!?
jason

[jason stumpf]

as far as layout and space goes, its anyone's call what is best. besides, it depends what you will be doing. however, i would suggest you consider lighting, comfort, and mechanical systems.

most of us like natural lighting when we can get it, but the sun goes down sometimes, so make sure your shop is well lit everywhere. and then make it brighter still! dim shops make accurate layout and fussy work extra hard. also consider light placement, as shadows can be just as problematic.

comfort usually means HVAC. i guess in texas you don't worry much about heating, but you may consider cooling a neccessity. either way insulation in the walls and ceilings should be a must. (it also cuts down on noise) and don't overlook the value of ceiling fans in summer. (the're good for pushing heat down in winter as well.) you probably will be building on a slab, but you might consider wood floors over that to relieve you feet/knees/back. believe me, concrete is not anyone's friend. i've seen floor systems over slabs that are 2x6's with double 1/2" subfloor glued and screwed that are super. the reason is that you can run all your wiring and dust collection through the floors instead of all over the walls and ceilings.

which brings me to mechanicals. if you can get water out to the shop, at least install a slop sink, if not a head. dirty feet through house is bad. run way more electricity than you think you will ever need. think of a good dust collection system as being as important as the roof and walls. i've worked in shops with no dust collection and shops with, and its difficult to think of breathing all that dust when you can avoid it. if you can run everything through the floor as mentioned above, great; if not, at least run it. you'll be very happy you did.

boy i sure am spending you money, eh? well you said *dream* shop right?!?
jason

[Mrleft8]

Fine Woodworking had a "special" issue in November I think. It was all about shops, and tools.
My theory on shops (and I've had 5 of my own, and worked in 4 others in the last 22 years) is:
You can never have too much space.
You can never have too much light.
High ceilings are extra good.
Warm floors are more important than warm air.
Posts, lolly collumns, low beams, steps, and stairways are ALWAYS in the way of doing something.
There's always an outlet missing in a crucial spot, so the more you have, the smaller that crucial spot will be.
Some like a separate room for machines, and another for "hand work". I don't think this is as important as having enough room for both operations,without having to walk through doors, and around walls (I did walk around a door, and through a wall once, but that's another story...)
All in all, the most important stuff is: Room,flow,light, and comfort.

[Mrleft8]

Fine Woodworking had a "special" issue in November I think. It was all about shops, and tools.
My theory on shops (and I've had 5 of my own, and worked in 4 others in the last 22 years) is:
You can never have too much space.
You can never have too much light.
High ceilings are extra good.
Warm floors are more important than warm air.
Posts, lolly collumns, low beams, steps, and stairways are ALWAYS in the way of doing something.
There's always an outlet missing in a crucial spot, so the more you have, the smaller that crucial spot will be.
Some like a separate room for machines, and another for "hand work". I don't think this is as important as having enough room for both operations,without having to walk through doors, and around walls (I did walk around a door, and through a wall once, but that's another story...)
All in all, the most important stuff is: Room,flow,light, and comfort.

[Mrleft8]

Fine Woodworking had a "special" issue in November I think. It was all about shops, and tools.
My theory on shops (and I've had 5 of my own, and worked in 4 others in the last 22 years) is:
You can never have too much space.
You can never have too much light.
High ceilings are extra good.
Warm floors are more important than warm air.
Posts, lolly collumns, low beams, steps, and stairways are ALWAYS in the way of doing something.
There's always an outlet missing in a crucial spot, so the more you have, the smaller that crucial spot will be.
Some like a separate room for machines, and another for "hand work". I don't think this is as important as having enough room for both operations,without having to walk through doors, and around walls (I did walk around a door, and through a wall once, but that's another story...)
All in all, the most important stuff is: Room,flow,light, and comfort.

[Dave Hadfield]

Wire it up well, with lots of plugs located up a bit on the walls so you can get at them when stuff is piling up, and use #12 wire for less resistance.

Lots of light, particularly at the edges of the ceiling, so that it comes down onto your work from an angle as well as overhead.

Arrange 2 worktables so that one serves as an infeed table for the tablesaw (in my case the central machine in the shop) separated by about 40" from the saw, and one serves as the outfeed table. That way the stock just flo-ows across the shop -- rough-sized on the infeed table, dimensioned on the saw and assembled on the outfeed table. The planer also outfeeds onto this table.

It's convenient to have elec. plugs on each side of each table.

I have a near full-length workbench along one wall under horizontally oriented windows. Belly-button height is most convenient. I use the other worktables (which are lower -- table saw height) for bearing down on things (chiseling).

Under the outfeed table in my shop I built a big portable box out of lauan ply (6ft x 3ft x 20in), and hooked my dust collection system to that. The box slides out, wheels mount underneath it and I tow it out to the garden to dispose of the shavings. Using this system I keep the original air in the shop. If I used an exhaust system my expensive heated/cooled air would be lost.

I arranged my doors so that they are wider than standard, home-made, and when propped open allow me long clear runs so that I can rip/plane 18ft lengths of wood. I have no garage-style door. I didn't want to sacrifice the overhead space. I also never wanted to be tempted to bring a vehicle in. (It's a WOOD shop, dammit.) Now I regret that because moving a 14ft catboat project in and out of the place is a pain.

Allow space for storing partly-used sheets of plywood, and other stock.

Make the ceiling very sturdy. I use mine to hang/suspend things all the time. I store spars and boats and all kinds of stuff up there, hung from eye-screws by lines made off to cleats on the side walls. Make it 10ft or higher, so that you can turn 8ft stock end-for-end vertically.

For security I rigged simple inside plywood shutters over the windows that hinge up out of the way, held up by cords made off to cleats. They are dropped and then held securely in place (when I leave) by simple pivoting tabs of steel. This makes it more difficult to break in, and prevents anyone from looking in and checking out what equipment you have. I always meant to laminate a layer of steel hardware cloth onto these, but I never got around to it.

You will never have enough space for storing wood, but maximize what you can.

Avoid making your shop available for bicycles, lawn mowers, freezers etc. Keep it a dedicated place.

Put up a rack for your WB magazines!

[Dave Hadfield]

Wire it up well, with lots of plugs located up a bit on the walls so you can get at them when stuff is piling up, and use #12 wire for less resistance.

Lots of light, particularly at the edges of the ceiling, so that it comes down onto your work from an angle as well as overhead.

Arrange 2 worktables so that one serves as an infeed table for the tablesaw (in my case the central machine in the shop) separated by about 40" from the saw, and one serves as the outfeed table. That way the stock just flo-ows across the shop -- rough-sized on the infeed table, dimensioned on the saw and assembled on the outfeed table. The planer also outfeeds onto this table.

It's convenient to have elec. plugs on each side of each table.

I have a near full-length workbench along one wall under horizontally oriented windows. Belly-button height is most convenient. I use the other worktables (which are lower -- table saw height) for bearing down on things (chiseling).

Under the outfeed table in my shop I built a big portable box out of lauan ply (6ft x 3ft x 20in), and hooked my dust collection system to that. The box slides out, wheels mount underneath it and I tow it out to the garden to dispose of the shavings. Using this system I keep the original air in the shop. If I used an exhaust system my expensive heated/cooled air would be lost.

I arranged my doors so that they are wider than standard, home-made, and when propped open allow me long clear runs so that I can rip/plane 18ft lengths of wood. I have no garage-style door. I didn't want to sacrifice the overhead space. I also never wanted to be tempted to bring a vehicle in. (It's a WOOD shop, dammit.) Now I regret that because moving a 14ft catboat project in and out of the place is a pain.

Allow space for storing partly-used sheets of plywood, and other stock.

Make the ceiling very sturdy. I use mine to hang/suspend things all the time. I store spars and boats and all kinds of stuff up there, hung from eye-screws by lines made off to cleats on the side walls. Make it 10ft or higher, so that you can turn 8ft stock end-for-end vertically.

For security I rigged simple inside plywood shutters over the windows that hinge up out of the way, held up by cords made off to cleats. They are dropped and then held securely in place (when I leave) by simple pivoting tabs of steel. This makes it more difficult to break in, and prevents anyone from looking in and checking out what equipment you have. I always meant to laminate a layer of steel hardware cloth onto these, but I never got around to it.

You will never have enough space for storing wood, but maximize what you can.

Avoid making your shop available for bicycles, lawn mowers, freezers etc. Keep it a dedicated place.

Put up a rack for your WB magazines!

[Dave Hadfield]

Wire it up well, with lots of plugs located up a bit on the walls so you can get at them when stuff is piling up, and use #12 wire for less resistance.

Lots of light, particularly at the edges of the ceiling, so that it comes down onto your work from an angle as well as overhead.

Arrange 2 worktables so that one serves as an infeed table for the tablesaw (in my case the central machine in the shop) separated by about 40" from the saw, and one serves as the outfeed table. That way the stock just flo-ows across the shop -- rough-sized on the infeed table, dimensioned on the saw and assembled on the outfeed table. The planer also outfeeds onto this table.

It's convenient to have elec. plugs on each side of each table.

I have a near full-length workbench along one wall under horizontally oriented windows. Belly-button height is most convenient. I use the other worktables (which are lower -- table saw height) for bearing down on things (chiseling).

Under the outfeed table in my shop I built a big portable box out of lauan ply (6ft x 3ft x 20in), and hooked my dust collection system to that. The box slides out, wheels mount underneath it and I tow it out to the garden to dispose of the shavings. Using this system I keep the original air in the shop. If I used an exhaust system my expensive heated/cooled air would be lost.

I arranged my doors so that they are wider than standard, home-made, and when propped open allow me long clear runs so that I can rip/plane 18ft lengths of wood. I have no garage-style door. I didn't want to sacrifice the overhead space. I also never wanted to be tempted to bring a vehicle in. (It's a WOOD shop, dammit.) Now I regret that because moving a 14ft catboat project in and out of the place is a pain.

Allow space for storing partly-used sheets of plywood, and other stock.

Make the ceiling very sturdy. I use mine to hang/suspend things all the time. I store spars and boats and all kinds of stuff up there, hung from eye-screws by lines made off to cleats on the side walls. Make it 10ft or higher, so that you can turn 8ft stock end-for-end vertically.

For security I rigged simple inside plywood shutters over the windows that hinge up out of the way, held up by cords made off to cleats. They are dropped and then held securely in place (when I leave) by simple pivoting tabs of steel. This makes it more difficult to break in, and prevents anyone from looking in and checking out what equipment you have. I always meant to laminate a layer of steel hardware cloth onto these, but I never got around to it.

You will never have enough space for storing wood, but maximize what you can.

Avoid making your shop available for bicycles, lawn mowers, freezers etc. Keep it a dedicated place.

Put up a rack for your WB magazines!

[Carlsboats]

After a lifetime of "wanting," five years ago I built my dream shop. It is everything I could have wished. For what it's worth, my key points:
Size: 24 X 32 --big enough for my power tools and big enough to build up to a 24-footer inside. I am now building a 19-foot keel/CB daysailer. That's as big as my wife says I can tackle now.
Open space: No support posts anywhere. Ceiling hgt. is over nine feet, high enough to roll over
most anything I am likely to build. We used continuous joists across the 24-foot width. Works great. The joists are rated strong enough to permit a chain hoist, through bolted to a 2 X 12 in the attic that spans five joists -- in other words, I can lift a ton without pulling down the ceiling.
Wood floor: We poured a concrete floor,
then laid sleepers and a wood floor. This gives us a level platform to which we can lag stuff -- very handy for boatbuilding. Also, we were able to shim it out so it is dead level. Great for setting up building molds.
Big doors: Two pairs of wood doors, each pair
opening to 9 X 10 feet. Plenty of ventilation in summer; plenty of room to roll boats in and out.
Heating/insulation: Walls, windows, doors, ceiling and floor are all insulated. This makes it possible to heat the building in winter (in RI) with a small bottled-gas furnace that is vented to the outdoors. It brings the shop up to working temperature in five minutes. No hot-air ducts anywhere -- just the furnace with a built-in fan. No problem with cold spots anywhere in the shop, though those big doors do let in some air when the wind blows hard.
Electrical: Overhead fluorescents plugged into overhead receptacles. Lights can easily be moved as needed. Service is 100 amps, with wall receptacles all over the place, one 220 volt.
Windows: Almost too many of them.
Benches: Narrow spar bench runs along most of one long wall. On opposite side, I built a very stout 4X6 workbench. It is free standing but so heavy that it doesn't budge.
Storage: Attic above with outside stairs (we had an indoor pull-down ladder, but it was too much hassle, so we added the outside stairs three years ago --big improvement). Roof is high pitched (10 pitch), which gives us convenient storage without need for a dormer.
What would I change if doing it again? Very little. I would put a foot-square cutout in one wall, at bench heighth, so that a steam box could be butted up against it from the outside. Now, when I steam something, I have to run in and out with each piece of wood. Also, we installed a lifting beam at the roof peak, with an attic door to load stuff with a block and fall. Never use it. Would dispense with it next time, and put a window in the attic instead.
Expense: Well, I did a lot of the work myself, hiring a carpenter to do the rest, but it still cost a fair bit, about $40K. Much of the money, though, was for outside finishing --we shingled the building so it looks like a Cape Cod house, and trimmed in white-painted cedar, so the building wouldn't offend the neighbors. On the good side of this, in the future it would be pretty simple for someone to convert this into a nifty small house, or turn the upstairs into an apartment. Of course, they have to wait until I am dead and gone to do that.

[Carlsboats]

After a lifetime of "wanting," five years ago I built my dream shop. It is everything I could have wished. For what it's worth, my key points:
Size: 24 X 32 --big enough for my power tools and big enough to build up to a 24-footer inside. I am now building a 19-foot keel/CB daysailer. That's as big as my wife says I can tackle now.
Open space: No support posts anywhere. Ceiling hgt. is over nine feet, high enough to roll over
most anything I am likely to build. We used continuous joists across the 24-foot width. Works great. The joists are rated strong enough to permit a chain hoist, through bolted to a 2 X 12 in the attic that spans five joists -- in other words, I can lift a ton without pulling down the ceiling.
Wood floor: We poured a concrete floor,
then laid sleepers and a wood floor. This gives us a level platform to which we can lag stuff -- very handy for boatbuilding. Also, we were able to shim it out so it is dead level. Great for setting up building molds.
Big doors: Two pairs of wood doors, each pair
opening to 9 X 10 feet. Plenty of ventilation in summer; plenty of room to roll boats in and out.
Heating/insulation: Walls, windows, doors, ceiling and floor are all insulated. This makes it possible to heat the building in winter (in RI) with a small bottled-gas furnace that is vented to the outdoors. It brings the shop up to working temperature in five minutes. No hot-air ducts anywhere -- just the furnace with a built-in fan. No problem with cold spots anywhere in the shop, though those big doors do let in some air when the wind blows hard.
Electrical: Overhead fluorescents plugged into overhead receptacles. Lights can easily be moved as needed. Service is 100 amps, with wall receptacles all over the place, one 220 volt.
Windows: Almost too many of them.
Benches: Narrow spar bench runs along most of one long wall. On opposite side, I built a very stout 4X6 workbench. It is free standing but so heavy that it doesn't budge.
Storage: Attic above with outside stairs (we had an indoor pull-down ladder, but it was too much hassle, so we added the outside stairs three years ago --big improvement). Roof is high pitched (10 pitch), which gives us convenient storage without need for a dormer.
What would I change if doing it again? Very little. I would put a foot-square cutout in one wall, at bench heighth, so that a steam box could be butted up against it from the outside. Now, when I steam something, I have to run in and out with each piece of wood. Also, we installed a lifting beam at the roof peak, with an attic door to load stuff with a block and fall. Never use it. Would dispense with it next time, and put a window in the attic instead.
Expense: Well, I did a lot of the work myself, hiring a carpenter to do the rest, but it still cost a fair bit, about $40K. Much of the money, though, was for outside finishing --we shingled the building so it looks like a Cape Cod house, and trimmed in white-painted cedar, so the building wouldn't offend the neighbors. On the good side of this, in the future it would be pretty simple for someone to convert this into a nifty small house, or turn the upstairs into an apartment. Of course, they have to wait until I am dead and gone to do that.

[Carlsboats]

After a lifetime of "wanting," five years ago I built my dream shop. It is everything I could have wished. For what it's worth, my key points:
Size: 24 X 32 --big enough for my power tools and big enough to build up to a 24-footer inside. I am now building a 19-foot keel/CB daysailer. That's as big as my wife says I can tackle now.
Open space: No support posts anywhere. Ceiling hgt. is over nine feet, high enough to roll over
most anything I am likely to build. We used continuous joists across the 24-foot width. Works great. The joists are rated strong enough to permit a chain hoist, through bolted to a 2 X 12 in the attic that spans five joists -- in other words, I can lift a ton without pulling down the ceiling.
Wood floor: We poured a concrete floor,
then laid sleepers and a wood floor. This gives us a level platform to which we can lag stuff -- very handy for boatbuilding. Also, we were able to shim it out so it is dead level. Great for setting up building molds.
Big doors: Two pairs of wood doors, each pair
opening to 9 X 10 feet. Plenty of ventilation in summer; plenty of room to roll boats in and out.
Heating/insulation: Walls, windows, doors, ceiling and floor are all insulated. This makes it possible to heat the building in winter (in RI) with a small bottled-gas furnace that is vented to the outdoors. It brings the shop up to working temperature in five minutes. No hot-air ducts anywhere -- just the furnace with a built-in fan. No problem with cold spots anywhere in the shop, though those big doors do let in some air when the wind blows hard.
Electrical: Overhead fluorescents plugged into overhead receptacles. Lights can easily be moved as needed. Service is 100 amps, with wall receptacles all over the place, one 220 volt.
Windows: Almost too many of them.
Benches: Narrow spar bench runs along most of one long wall. On opposite side, I built a very stout 4X6 workbench. It is free standing but so heavy that it doesn't budge.
Storage: Attic above with outside stairs (we had an indoor pull-down ladder, but it was too much hassle, so we added the outside stairs three years ago --big improvement). Roof is high pitched (10 pitch), which gives us convenient storage without need for a dormer.
What would I change if doing it again? Very little. I would put a foot-square cutout in one wall, at bench heighth, so that a steam box could be butted up against it from the outside. Now, when I steam something, I have to run in and out with each piece of wood. Also, we installed a lifting beam at the roof peak, with an attic door to load stuff with a block and fall. Never use it. Would dispense with it next time, and put a window in the attic instead.
Expense: Well, I did a lot of the work myself, hiring a carpenter to do the rest, but it still cost a fair bit, about $40K. Much of the money, though, was for outside finishing --we shingled the building so it looks like a Cape Cod house, and trimmed in white-painted cedar, so the building wouldn't offend the neighbors. On the good side of this, in the future it would be pretty simple for someone to convert this into a nifty small house, or turn the upstairs into an apartment. Of course, they have to wait until I am dead and gone to do that.

[George Roberts]

No mater what you plan and build, you will find lots to complain about.

I have 1500sq ft. I have learned to live with it.

[George Roberts]

No mater what you plan and build, you will find lots to complain about.

I have 1500sq ft. I have learned to live with it.

[George Roberts]

No mater what you plan and build, you will find lots to complain about.

I have 1500sq ft. I have learned to live with it.