Table saws again

[cs]

I'm thinking about buying a table saw. You may have read my earlier post about this, but now I'm starting to get a little more serious. So I've got several questions and would like your recomendation. Target price less than $500.

First let me ask about Central Machinery as sold by Harbour Freight. I've read where other folks have used these and been happy with them. I need an honest opinion on this product.

What about belt drive versus direct drive? Is it worth the extra expense?

What about other brands (i.e. Grizzly, Jet, Delta or even names like DeWalt and Makita)?

Give me all of your input.

Chad

p.s. Whatever I get will have a minimum of 1-1/2 hp motor.

[cs]

I'm thinking about buying a table saw. You may have read my earlier post about this, but now I'm starting to get a little more serious. So I've got several questions and would like your recomendation. Target price less than $500.

First let me ask about Central Machinery as sold by Harbour Freight. I've read where other folks have used these and been happy with them. I need an honest opinion on this product.

What about belt drive versus direct drive? Is it worth the extra expense?

What about other brands (i.e. Grizzly, Jet, Delta or even names like DeWalt and Makita)?

Give me all of your input.

Chad

p.s. Whatever I get will have a minimum of 1-1/2 hp motor.

[cs]

I'm thinking about buying a table saw. You may have read my earlier post about this, but now I'm starting to get a little more serious. So I've got several questions and would like your recomendation. Target price less than $500.

First let me ask about Central Machinery as sold by Harbour Freight. I've read where other folks have used these and been happy with them. I need an honest opinion on this product.

What about belt drive versus direct drive? Is it worth the extra expense?

What about other brands (i.e. Grizzly, Jet, Delta or even names like DeWalt and Makita)?

Give me all of your input.

Chad

p.s. Whatever I get will have a minimum of 1-1/2 hp motor.

[ken mcclure]

At the price you're just not gonna get an industrial-quality saw, unless you find a used one.

I have a little Ryobi BT3000 which is pretty close to your range and it's done a good job for me.

[ken mcclure]

At the price you're just not gonna get an industrial-quality saw, unless you find a used one.

I have a little Ryobi BT3000 which is pretty close to your range and it's done a good job for me.

[ken mcclure]

At the price you're just not gonna get an industrial-quality saw, unless you find a used one.

I have a little Ryobi BT3000 which is pretty close to your range and it's done a good job for me.

[rodcross]

My philosophy on table saws is to get the best you can afford. $500 just won't do it. There's just too much time spent fiddling with getting things true when you've bought something where the tolerances are sloppy. You're not going to find precision until you reach the $1,000 range in new machines.

I've spent a fortune on table saws because I tried to get off cheap.

Things I know:
Direct drive means the bearings, motor and blade are an integral unit. They are generally louder. Motor vibration is transmitted to the blade. When one part of the unit goes bad, the entire unit is bad.

Don't expect the table saw to do anything but cut straight cuts and dados.

[rodcross]

My philosophy on table saws is to get the best you can afford. $500 just won't do it. There's just too much time spent fiddling with getting things true when you've bought something where the tolerances are sloppy. You're not going to find precision until you reach the $1,000 range in new machines.

I've spent a fortune on table saws because I tried to get off cheap.

Things I know:
Direct drive means the bearings, motor and blade are an integral unit. They are generally louder. Motor vibration is transmitted to the blade. When one part of the unit goes bad, the entire unit is bad.

Don't expect the table saw to do anything but cut straight cuts and dados.

[rodcross]

My philosophy on table saws is to get the best you can afford. $500 just won't do it. There's just too much time spent fiddling with getting things true when you've bought something where the tolerances are sloppy. You're not going to find precision until you reach the $1,000 range in new machines.

I've spent a fortune on table saws because I tried to get off cheap.

Things I know:
Direct drive means the bearings, motor and blade are an integral unit. They are generally louder. Motor vibration is transmitted to the blade. When one part of the unit goes bad, the entire unit is bad.

Don't expect the table saw to do anything but cut straight cuts and dados.

[Wayne Jeffers]

Chad,

IMHO, belt drive is worth the extra expense because it reduces the amount of dust sucked into the motor with the cooling air.

I would suggest a minimum 2-HP motor, or one drawing about 15 amps at 110 volts. (And but it on a dedicated 20-amp circuit.) I add the amperage number to my description because there are two ways of measuring HP in electrical motors, "input" HP is the number usually shown on the label on the front of the tool, but the "output" HP (true HP) is about half the theoretical HP.

I have a "2-HP" Craftsman belt-drive 10-inch table saw. The power is adequate, but not generous.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Chad,

IMHO, belt drive is worth the extra expense because it reduces the amount of dust sucked into the motor with the cooling air.

I would suggest a minimum 2-HP motor, or one drawing about 15 amps at 110 volts. (And but it on a dedicated 20-amp circuit.) I add the amperage number to my description because there are two ways of measuring HP in electrical motors, "input" HP is the number usually shown on the label on the front of the tool, but the "output" HP (true HP) is about half the theoretical HP.

I have a "2-HP" Craftsman belt-drive 10-inch table saw. The power is adequate, but not generous.

Wayne

[Wayne Jeffers]

Chad,

IMHO, belt drive is worth the extra expense because it reduces the amount of dust sucked into the motor with the cooling air.

I would suggest a minimum 2-HP motor, or one drawing about 15 amps at 110 volts. (And but it on a dedicated 20-amp circuit.) I add the amperage number to my description because there are two ways of measuring HP in electrical motors, "input" HP is the number usually shown on the label on the front of the tool, but the "output" HP (true HP) is about half the theoretical HP.

I have a "2-HP" Craftsman belt-drive 10-inch table saw. The power is adequate, but not generous.

Wayne

[Barry]

Check out this saw: In your price range.
Good fence,Lot's of power.
I have the Mobilmax set up from Rousseau.
Couldn't be happier
Bt

http://www.rousseauco.com/
http://www.internationaltool.com/boschtablesaw.htm

[Barry]

Check out this saw: In your price range.
Good fence,Lot's of power.
I have the Mobilmax set up from Rousseau.
Couldn't be happier
Bt

http://www.rousseauco.com/
http://www.internationaltool.com/boschtablesaw.htm

[Barry]

Check out this saw: In your price range.
Good fence,Lot's of power.
I have the Mobilmax set up from Rousseau.
Couldn't be happier
Bt

http://www.rousseauco.com/
http://www.internationaltool.com/boschtablesaw.htm

[cs]

Here is the deal. I can't spend that much for a table saw. If I have to spend that much I wont get one and just have to live with what I got. I know you get what you pay for. I just want a good quaility saw for what I can spend.

I keep coming back to this paticular saw.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/pics/G1/G1022SM.jpg

It is the Grizzly G1022SM and it is belt driven with 1-1/2 hp. Here is the link to this saw.

G1022SM (http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G1022SM&&User_ID=3040396&St=2373&St2=-81459952&St3=76502162&DS_ID=1)

It appears that I can buy this saw and have it delivered for $365.

Chad

[cs]

Here is the deal. I can't spend that much for a table saw. If I have to spend that much I wont get one and just have to live with what I got. I know you get what you pay for. I just want a good quaility saw for what I can spend.

I keep coming back to this paticular saw.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/pics/G1/G1022SM.jpg

It is the Grizzly G1022SM and it is belt driven with 1-1/2 hp. Here is the link to this saw.

G1022SM (http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G1022SM&&User_ID=3040396&St=2373&St2=-81459952&St3=76502162&DS_ID=1)

It appears that I can buy this saw and have it delivered for $365.

Chad

[cs]

Here is the deal. I can't spend that much for a table saw. If I have to spend that much I wont get one and just have to live with what I got. I know you get what you pay for. I just want a good quaility saw for what I can spend.

I keep coming back to this paticular saw.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/pics/G1/G1022SM.jpg

It is the Grizzly G1022SM and it is belt driven with 1-1/2 hp. Here is the link to this saw.

G1022SM (http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?ItemNumber=G1022SM&&User_ID=3040396&St=2373&St2=-81459952&St3=76502162&DS_ID=1)

It appears that I can buy this saw and have it delivered for $365.

Chad

[John Teetsel]

I'll throw in with Ken on the Ryobi, though Garrett says he hates his. I have one and I've really been quite pleased with it though it's a little tricky to raise and lower the blade sometimes. The recently released BT3100 corrects many of the problems of the 3000. They are available at Home Depot and Lowes for, are you ready for this, about $300. It's as acurate as any saw you can find if it's set up properly and I've cut 2 1/2" mahagony with mine and had no problems.

Check here for a (biased) review of the 3100. http://www.samconder.com/bt3k/articles/BT3100.htm

Check here for the BT3000/3100 users forum. http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID24&conf=DCConfID1

[John Teetsel]

I'll throw in with Ken on the Ryobi, though Garrett says he hates his. I have one and I've really been quite pleased with it though it's a little tricky to raise and lower the blade sometimes. The recently released BT3100 corrects many of the problems of the 3000. They are available at Home Depot and Lowes for, are you ready for this, about $300. It's as acurate as any saw you can find if it's set up properly and I've cut 2 1/2" mahagony with mine and had no problems.

Check here for a (biased) review of the 3100. http://www.samconder.com/bt3k/articles/BT3100.htm

Check here for the BT3000/3100 users forum. http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID24&conf=DCConfID1

[John Teetsel]

I'll throw in with Ken on the Ryobi, though Garrett says he hates his. I have one and I've really been quite pleased with it though it's a little tricky to raise and lower the blade sometimes. The recently released BT3100 corrects many of the problems of the 3000. They are available at Home Depot and Lowes for, are you ready for this, about $300. It's as acurate as any saw you can find if it's set up properly and I've cut 2 1/2" mahagony with mine and had no problems.

Check here for a (biased) review of the 3100. http://www.samconder.com/bt3k/articles/BT3100.htm

Check here for the BT3000/3100 users forum. http://www.ryobitools.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=list&forum=DCForumID24&conf=DCConfID1

[imported_Conrad]

I have Grizzly table and band saws- both were very favorably reviewed in a number of woodworking magazines, and I've been very happy with both. I think some of their earlier efforts/products must have been bad, and that reputation stays with those who haven't had a more recent experience. My guess is you'll be quite happy with it- it's probably a better saw than anything you'll find at Sears or other lesser brands. A friend of mine who is a pro cabinet maker, with all powermatic tools (the best) was surprised to admit how well built the Grizzly stuff was- heavy, sturdy, a bit crude on the finish. My saw, after some set-up, is dead on accurate. His powermatic table, by the way, is warpped- for $2,000 and poor customer service. Griz customer service now (but maybe not in the past) is excellent. I'm going to be buying their (Grizzly) 15" planner soon. Buy the saw, and when you have an extra couple of grand to play with, sell it and buy a Powermatic-- but expect to have to pay to get the table milled flat! :eek: :D

If the one you're looking at doesn't have the "shop fox" fence, spend the extra money- it's very nice, and well worth it.

[imported_Conrad]

I have Grizzly table and band saws- both were very favorably reviewed in a number of woodworking magazines, and I've been very happy with both. I think some of their earlier efforts/products must have been bad, and that reputation stays with those who haven't had a more recent experience. My guess is you'll be quite happy with it- it's probably a better saw than anything you'll find at Sears or other lesser brands. A friend of mine who is a pro cabinet maker, with all powermatic tools (the best) was surprised to admit how well built the Grizzly stuff was- heavy, sturdy, a bit crude on the finish. My saw, after some set-up, is dead on accurate. His powermatic table, by the way, is warpped- for $2,000 and poor customer service. Griz customer service now (but maybe not in the past) is excellent. I'm going to be buying their (Grizzly) 15" planner soon. Buy the saw, and when you have an extra couple of grand to play with, sell it and buy a Powermatic-- but expect to have to pay to get the table milled flat! :eek: :D

If the one you're looking at doesn't have the "shop fox" fence, spend the extra money- it's very nice, and well worth it.

[imported_Conrad]

I have Grizzly table and band saws- both were very favorably reviewed in a number of woodworking magazines, and I've been very happy with both. I think some of their earlier efforts/products must have been bad, and that reputation stays with those who haven't had a more recent experience. My guess is you'll be quite happy with it- it's probably a better saw than anything you'll find at Sears or other lesser brands. A friend of mine who is a pro cabinet maker, with all powermatic tools (the best) was surprised to admit how well built the Grizzly stuff was- heavy, sturdy, a bit crude on the finish. My saw, after some set-up, is dead on accurate. His powermatic table, by the way, is warpped- for $2,000 and poor customer service. Griz customer service now (but maybe not in the past) is excellent. I'm going to be buying their (Grizzly) 15" planner soon. Buy the saw, and when you have an extra couple of grand to play with, sell it and buy a Powermatic-- but expect to have to pay to get the table milled flat! :eek: :D

If the one you're looking at doesn't have the "shop fox" fence, spend the extra money- it's very nice, and well worth it.

[ken mcclure]

Ah! Thanks for that link, John.

Mine is an early model BT3000, and the shims that the arbor, etc. ride up and down on will deform and bind up if you raise or lower the unit all the way. This was supposed to have been fixed in later models.

Everything started off reasonably true, although I found that I have to check the mitre fence frequently to ensure that it's 90 degrees to the blade.

I put this saw to a lot of hard use, from purpleheart to 8/4 teak and it's held up well.

Dunno on the Grizzly. I can say this, though. As long as you have a good blade and your fence is absolutely parallel to it you can cut pretty well with any saw.

[ken mcclure]

Ah! Thanks for that link, John.

Mine is an early model BT3000, and the shims that the arbor, etc. ride up and down on will deform and bind up if you raise or lower the unit all the way. This was supposed to have been fixed in later models.

Everything started off reasonably true, although I found that I have to check the mitre fence frequently to ensure that it's 90 degrees to the blade.

I put this saw to a lot of hard use, from purpleheart to 8/4 teak and it's held up well.

Dunno on the Grizzly. I can say this, though. As long as you have a good blade and your fence is absolutely parallel to it you can cut pretty well with any saw.

[ken mcclure]

Ah! Thanks for that link, John.

Mine is an early model BT3000, and the shims that the arbor, etc. ride up and down on will deform and bind up if you raise or lower the unit all the way. This was supposed to have been fixed in later models.

Everything started off reasonably true, although I found that I have to check the mitre fence frequently to ensure that it's 90 degrees to the blade.

I put this saw to a lot of hard use, from purpleheart to 8/4 teak and it's held up well.

Dunno on the Grizzly. I can say this, though. As long as you have a good blade and your fence is absolutely parallel to it you can cut pretty well with any saw.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

I too have wasted a bundle trading up equipment- until I learned to buy the right one first. A cheap table saw will have a cheap fence- and that will be trouble every time. Of course, if you are going to be sawing up lumber to build a garage- a cheapo might be just fine. Boatbuilders however, generally require closer tolerances and accurate angles. If you can't afford a decent new table saw- get a decent old table saw- and put a Beismeyer fence on it. I have an old Jet- the blue ones made in Germany- and its just excellent!! Suggest you shop a bit for one of these.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

I too have wasted a bundle trading up equipment- until I learned to buy the right one first. A cheap table saw will have a cheap fence- and that will be trouble every time. Of course, if you are going to be sawing up lumber to build a garage- a cheapo might be just fine. Boatbuilders however, generally require closer tolerances and accurate angles. If you can't afford a decent new table saw- get a decent old table saw- and put a Beismeyer fence on it. I have an old Jet- the blue ones made in Germany- and its just excellent!! Suggest you shop a bit for one of these.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

I too have wasted a bundle trading up equipment- until I learned to buy the right one first. A cheap table saw will have a cheap fence- and that will be trouble every time. Of course, if you are going to be sawing up lumber to build a garage- a cheapo might be just fine. Boatbuilders however, generally require closer tolerances and accurate angles. If you can't afford a decent new table saw- get a decent old table saw- and put a Beismeyer fence on it. I have an old Jet- the blue ones made in Germany- and its just excellent!! Suggest you shop a bit for one of these.

[John Teetsel]

Ken, I replaced the shims on my saw and did a little sanding on the rather rough milling that they ride on. When everything went back together, I put a couple of drops of lock-tite on the shims to stick them to the trunion rather than let them "float" like they used to. So far, so good.

I read on the BT3000 fourm that one fella used super glue to do the same thing. That would probably work without disassembling everything if you're careful with the glue.

[John Teetsel]

Ken, I replaced the shims on my saw and did a little sanding on the rather rough milling that they ride on. When everything went back together, I put a couple of drops of lock-tite on the shims to stick them to the trunion rather than let them "float" like they used to. So far, so good.

I read on the BT3000 fourm that one fella used super glue to do the same thing. That would probably work without disassembling everything if you're careful with the glue.

[John Teetsel]

Ken, I replaced the shims on my saw and did a little sanding on the rather rough milling that they ride on. When everything went back together, I put a couple of drops of lock-tite on the shims to stick them to the trunion rather than let them "float" like they used to. So far, so good.

I read on the BT3000 fourm that one fella used super glue to do the same thing. That would probably work without disassembling everything if you're careful with the glue.

[ken mcclure]

I was gonna glue the shims, but I'm afraid what'll happen when I have to replace them again. Which may be soon, judging by how the saw's acting. :rolleyes:

My brother the engineer looked over the Jet saws, and claims that they're actually pretty well-built.

[ken mcclure]

I was gonna glue the shims, but I'm afraid what'll happen when I have to replace them again. Which may be soon, judging by how the saw's acting. :rolleyes:

My brother the engineer looked over the Jet saws, and claims that they're actually pretty well-built.

[ken mcclure]

I was gonna glue the shims, but I'm afraid what'll happen when I have to replace them again. Which may be soon, judging by how the saw's acting. :rolleyes:

My brother the engineer looked over the Jet saws, and claims that they're actually pretty well-built.

[redonebyme]

belt vs. direct drive

belt drive allows for a greater cutting depth. The pully allws for more clearance under the table. Also belt drive is more kind to the motor, If by chance you bind the blase the belt will slip as opposed to burning the motor.

[redonebyme]

belt vs. direct drive

belt drive allows for a greater cutting depth. The pully allws for more clearance under the table. Also belt drive is more kind to the motor, If by chance you bind the blase the belt will slip as opposed to burning the motor.

[redonebyme]

belt vs. direct drive

belt drive allows for a greater cutting depth. The pully allws for more clearance under the table. Also belt drive is more kind to the motor, If by chance you bind the blase the belt will slip as opposed to burning the motor.

[capt jake]

A friend of mine researched for a long time. He just picked up his Grizzly last week. Don't know which model but he spend around $750 with the shopfox fence.

He told me that he considered a shopfox saw but decided that it was the same saw as the Grizz with different paint (the rep even told him that).

[capt jake]

A friend of mine researched for a long time. He just picked up his Grizzly last week. Don't know which model but he spend around $750 with the shopfox fence.

He told me that he considered a shopfox saw but decided that it was the same saw as the Grizz with different paint (the rep even told him that).

[capt jake]

A friend of mine researched for a long time. He just picked up his Grizzly last week. Don't know which model but he spend around $750 with the shopfox fence.

He told me that he considered a shopfox saw but decided that it was the same saw as the Grizz with different paint (the rep even told him that).

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I think Dave Fleming would say what I will say (and boy that means I have at least one smart thought in my brain) Look for a used one.. you could get lucky, or you could get one up from what you're looking at now for the same money. Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. Some of that old stuff is built like the proverbial brick house, but you have to be patient. (by the way I am in that mode now.... I have a small delta, but I want a large 10 or 12 inch saw.)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I think Dave Fleming would say what I will say (and boy that means I have at least one smart thought in my brain) Look for a used one.. you could get lucky, or you could get one up from what you're looking at now for the same money. Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. Some of that old stuff is built like the proverbial brick house, but you have to be patient. (by the way I am in that mode now.... I have a small delta, but I want a large 10 or 12 inch saw.)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I think Dave Fleming would say what I will say (and boy that means I have at least one smart thought in my brain) Look for a used one.. you could get lucky, or you could get one up from what you're looking at now for the same money. Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. Some of that old stuff is built like the proverbial brick house, but you have to be patient. (by the way I am in that mode now.... I have a small delta, but I want a large 10 or 12 inch saw.)

[capt jake]

Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. I have my Grand Father's saw. Fits you description puurfect. He bought it new for about $50, still have the receipts!

I love it and it so accurate, even with the old fence. I might have a line on a twin for it, and you are right, you can get them cheap. smile.gif

[capt jake]

Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. I have my Grand Father's saw. Fits you description puurfect. He bought it new for about $50, still have the receipts!

I love it and it so accurate, even with the old fence. I might have a line on a twin for it, and you are right, you can get them cheap. smile.gif

[capt jake]

Lots of old saws out there with life left in em. My father still has HIS fathers 8" table saw (a beaver cast iron, 1940's) and it would not sell for that much used. I have my Grand Father's saw. Fits you description puurfect. He bought it new for about $50, still have the receipts!

I love it and it so accurate, even with the old fence. I might have a line on a twin for it, and you are right, you can get them cheap. smile.gif

[Roger Stouff]

Chad, I hate giving recommendations for stuff like this because I'll feel terrible if you have a different experience but:

Two years ago I bought the Rigid 2412, 10", belt drive. It has 24" rip to the right and 12" to the left. Good fence, easy to set up and maintain, and this saw is heavy, real heavy for a contractor's saw. I have absolutely no complaints about it save one, that the motor is not enclosed, but a regular blowing out with the air compressor and I have no probs. It is a great saw for about $500, and there are two higher models available.

A couple of my friends who are professional contractors fell in love with my Rigid, and vowed to get one whenever their current saws go.

It will rip well with a good, thin kerf blade, through thick stock if you're slow and careful. I have only had to realign the saw once, and that was after ripping about 80 2x6s which were slightly bowed edgewise.

Just for what it's worth...

R

[Roger Stouff]

Chad, I hate giving recommendations for stuff like this because I'll feel terrible if you have a different experience but:

Two years ago I bought the Rigid 2412, 10", belt drive. It has 24" rip to the right and 12" to the left. Good fence, easy to set up and maintain, and this saw is heavy, real heavy for a contractor's saw. I have absolutely no complaints about it save one, that the motor is not enclosed, but a regular blowing out with the air compressor and I have no probs. It is a great saw for about $500, and there are two higher models available.

A couple of my friends who are professional contractors fell in love with my Rigid, and vowed to get one whenever their current saws go.

It will rip well with a good, thin kerf blade, through thick stock if you're slow and careful. I have only had to realign the saw once, and that was after ripping about 80 2x6s which were slightly bowed edgewise.

Just for what it's worth...

R

[Roger Stouff]

Chad, I hate giving recommendations for stuff like this because I'll feel terrible if you have a different experience but:

Two years ago I bought the Rigid 2412, 10", belt drive. It has 24" rip to the right and 12" to the left. Good fence, easy to set up and maintain, and this saw is heavy, real heavy for a contractor's saw. I have absolutely no complaints about it save one, that the motor is not enclosed, but a regular blowing out with the air compressor and I have no probs. It is a great saw for about $500, and there are two higher models available.

A couple of my friends who are professional contractors fell in love with my Rigid, and vowed to get one whenever their current saws go.

It will rip well with a good, thin kerf blade, through thick stock if you're slow and careful. I have only had to realign the saw once, and that was after ripping about 80 2x6s which were slightly bowed edgewise.

Just for what it's worth...

R

[WFK]

cs;
That Grizzly saw you show was my first saw 15 years ago,.....everthing about it was bad, but I made it work. If you by the saw, first thing you do is take the fence to your local recycle bin and go out and get the beismeyer,....it'll make a big diffrence. If I had to do it all over again, I'd drop the money on a good saw the first time. If your budget just won't allow for this then I'd side with the guys that say go shopping for a good used saw. And remember,..LEFT HAND TILT!!!!!!!
Bill

[WFK]

cs;
That Grizzly saw you show was my first saw 15 years ago,.....everthing about it was bad, but I made it work. If you by the saw, first thing you do is take the fence to your local recycle bin and go out and get the beismeyer,....it'll make a big diffrence. If I had to do it all over again, I'd drop the money on a good saw the first time. If your budget just won't allow for this then I'd side with the guys that say go shopping for a good used saw. And remember,..LEFT HAND TILT!!!!!!!
Bill

[WFK]

cs;
That Grizzly saw you show was my first saw 15 years ago,.....everthing about it was bad, but I made it work. If you by the saw, first thing you do is take the fence to your local recycle bin and go out and get the beismeyer,....it'll make a big diffrence. If I had to do it all over again, I'd drop the money on a good saw the first time. If your budget just won't allow for this then I'd side with the guys that say go shopping for a good used saw. And remember,..LEFT HAND TILT!!!!!!!
Bill

[capt jake]

Now if I could find one of those crappy fences to put onto the Craftsman saw (and keep the Beismeyer 42"), I could feel good, getting getting rid of that over grown work bench of a saw.
Dont' buy a Craftsman... (mine was free, so I can't bitch too much).

[capt jake]

Now if I could find one of those crappy fences to put onto the Craftsman saw (and keep the Beismeyer 42"), I could feel good, getting getting rid of that over grown work bench of a saw.
Dont' buy a Craftsman... (mine was free, so I can't bitch too much).

[capt jake]

Now if I could find one of those crappy fences to put onto the Craftsman saw (and keep the Beismeyer 42"), I could feel good, getting getting rid of that over grown work bench of a saw.
Dont' buy a Craftsman... (mine was free, so I can't bitch too much).

[Mrleft8]

You CAN find a good used Powermatic 66 or rockwell/delta unisaw for 500 bucks. BUT you gotta look. What you don't spend on a saw now, you will spend on a saw later plus much more. Get a GOOD saw once, or buy dozens of cheap saws and never be happy with one of them.
The best reason to buy a top of the line saw to start with is, as a carpenter friend once told me as I drove him back from the emergency room...." I bet if I was using your Unisaw that never would have happened...."

[Mrleft8]

You CAN find a good used Powermatic 66 or rockwell/delta unisaw for 500 bucks. BUT you gotta look. What you don't spend on a saw now, you will spend on a saw later plus much more. Get a GOOD saw once, or buy dozens of cheap saws and never be happy with one of them.
The best reason to buy a top of the line saw to start with is, as a carpenter friend once told me as I drove him back from the emergency room...." I bet if I was using your Unisaw that never would have happened...."

[Mrleft8]

You CAN find a good used Powermatic 66 or rockwell/delta unisaw for 500 bucks. BUT you gotta look. What you don't spend on a saw now, you will spend on a saw later plus much more. Get a GOOD saw once, or buy dozens of cheap saws and never be happy with one of them.
The best reason to buy a top of the line saw to start with is, as a carpenter friend once told me as I drove him back from the emergency room...." I bet if I was using your Unisaw that never would have happened...."

[whb]

Hi Chad,

At the risk of sounding like a broken record....

Pick the fence you like first. Then find a decent saw that fits it.

Howard

PS After 18 years of cranking a direct drive saw to the right angle/height you can really appreciate the lighter weight of the belt drive units.

[whb]

Hi Chad,

At the risk of sounding like a broken record....

Pick the fence you like first. Then find a decent saw that fits it.

Howard

PS After 18 years of cranking a direct drive saw to the right angle/height you can really appreciate the lighter weight of the belt drive units.

[whb]

Hi Chad,

At the risk of sounding like a broken record....

Pick the fence you like first. Then find a decent saw that fits it.

Howard

PS After 18 years of cranking a direct drive saw to the right angle/height you can really appreciate the lighter weight of the belt drive units.

[Alan D. Hyde]

Use the "search" feature and you'll find a long table saw thread from a while back.

In that thread, several of us pointed out that it's really not that daunting a job to make your own.

It can enjoyable to design and build one, and much cheaper. And it just AMAZES me how much good stuff (you can use for it) gets thrown away by individuals and businesses. Arbors, belts, welded steel tables, you name it...

Alan

[ 12-24-2002, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: Alan D. Hyde ]

[Alan D. Hyde]

Use the "search" feature and you'll find a long table saw thread from a while back.

In that thread, several of us pointed out that it's really not that daunting a job to make your own.

It can enjoyable to design and build one, and much cheaper. And it just AMAZES me how much good stuff (you can use for it) gets thrown away by individuals and businesses. Arbors, belts, welded steel tables, you name it...

Alan

[ 12-24-2002, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: Alan D. Hyde ]

[Alan D. Hyde]

Use the "search" feature and you'll find a long table saw thread from a while back.

In that thread, several of us pointed out that it's really not that daunting a job to make your own.

It can enjoyable to design and build one, and much cheaper. And it just AMAZES me how much good stuff (you can use for it) gets thrown away by individuals and businesses. Arbors, belts, welded steel tables, you name it...

Alan

[ 12-24-2002, 11:55 AM: Message edited by: Alan D. Hyde ]

[cs]

Thanks for all the advice (including the off forum e-mails). I read them all just haven't responded to them. I've done different web searches and read reviews and made a decission. Now I did not make this decission lightly. In fact there was a lot of thought and hesitation.

The saw I ended up going with is the Grizzly G1022SM (see image above). All the reviews seem to beleive that this is the best saw dollar for dollar. I know Bill said he had bad luck with his, but that was 15 years ago. Others have e-mailed me with positive results. Guess I will find out and let you know.

Thanks for your help.

Chad

[cs]

Thanks for all the advice (including the off forum e-mails). I read them all just haven't responded to them. I've done different web searches and read reviews and made a decission. Now I did not make this decission lightly. In fact there was a lot of thought and hesitation.

The saw I ended up going with is the Grizzly G1022SM (see image above). All the reviews seem to beleive that this is the best saw dollar for dollar. I know Bill said he had bad luck with his, but that was 15 years ago. Others have e-mailed me with positive results. Guess I will find out and let you know.

Thanks for your help.

Chad

[cs]

Thanks for all the advice (including the off forum e-mails). I read them all just haven't responded to them. I've done different web searches and read reviews and made a decission. Now I did not make this decission lightly. In fact there was a lot of thought and hesitation.

The saw I ended up going with is the Grizzly G1022SM (see image above). All the reviews seem to beleive that this is the best saw dollar for dollar. I know Bill said he had bad luck with his, but that was 15 years ago. Others have e-mailed me with positive results. Guess I will find out and let you know.

Thanks for your help.

Chad

[capt jake]

Chad, I am sure you did well! Now don't go second guessing your decision! Man, I am bad on that one!

Happy saw dust!!! :D :D :D

[capt jake]

Chad, I am sure you did well! Now don't go second guessing your decision! Man, I am bad on that one!

Happy saw dust!!! :D :D :D

[capt jake]

Chad, I am sure you did well! Now don't go second guessing your decision! Man, I am bad on that one!

Happy saw dust!!! :D :D :D

[imported_Conrad]

Chad- enjoy!! What's interesting about these discussions is how hard it is to change your reputation, once it's made, at least in a positive direction! But everything changes so quickly these days, I'm constantly reminded to stay in tune with current information- the whole world it seems can change in a couple of years, whether politics or table saws, things rarely stay the same! How else can one explain how Grizzly tools win positive review after review, by guys who see all kinds of tools, in their newest incarnations, yet the negative of the early years persists! smile.gif

[imported_Conrad]

Chad- enjoy!! What's interesting about these discussions is how hard it is to change your reputation, once it's made, at least in a positive direction! But everything changes so quickly these days, I'm constantly reminded to stay in tune with current information- the whole world it seems can change in a couple of years, whether politics or table saws, things rarely stay the same! How else can one explain how Grizzly tools win positive review after review, by guys who see all kinds of tools, in their newest incarnations, yet the negative of the early years persists! smile.gif

[imported_Conrad]

Chad- enjoy!! What's interesting about these discussions is how hard it is to change your reputation, once it's made, at least in a positive direction! But everything changes so quickly these days, I'm constantly reminded to stay in tune with current information- the whole world it seems can change in a couple of years, whether politics or table saws, things rarely stay the same! How else can one explain how Grizzly tools win positive review after review, by guys who see all kinds of tools, in their newest incarnations, yet the negative of the early years persists! smile.gif

[Rogue Sailor]

I bought a Jet 12" contractors saw about 12 years ago. It's a solid machine but the fence was crap, and it took a bit of tuning to square the trunion/blade. I was fortunate to find an article describing a fence modification in a woodworking magazine at the time (I think it was American Woodworker). The mod is based on the old drafting table system of cables and pulleys to keep everyting parallel and true.

I built the system using pulleys made from sliding door rollers. The system uses 6 pulleys. One each mounted vertically on the front and back corners (infeed and outfeed edges)of the port wing, and two pair monted horizontally, top and bottom, on a purpose built hardwood frame which is bolted to the outboard edge of the starboard wing. Steel aircraft cable runs in a contiuous loop around three sides of the saw. The cable ends are attached to the bottom front of the fence, and the lower cable is clamped with a set screw to an aluminum tang mounted on the bottom of the fence on the outboard end. There is a turnbuckle provided in the loop for tension adjustent. The fence is adjusted parallel with the aforementioned set screw.

Once adjusted 12 years ago, I've never had to make any changes. This is a precision fence, and it cost less than $50 bucks.

[Rogue Sailor]

I bought a Jet 12" contractors saw about 12 years ago. It's a solid machine but the fence was crap, and it took a bit of tuning to square the trunion/blade. I was fortunate to find an article describing a fence modification in a woodworking magazine at the time (I think it was American Woodworker). The mod is based on the old drafting table system of cables and pulleys to keep everyting parallel and true.

I built the system using pulleys made from sliding door rollers. The system uses 6 pulleys. One each mounted vertically on the front and back corners (infeed and outfeed edges)of the port wing, and two pair monted horizontally, top and bottom, on a purpose built hardwood frame which is bolted to the outboard edge of the starboard wing. Steel aircraft cable runs in a contiuous loop around three sides of the saw. The cable ends are attached to the bottom front of the fence, and the lower cable is clamped with a set screw to an aluminum tang mounted on the bottom of the fence on the outboard end. There is a turnbuckle provided in the loop for tension adjustent. The fence is adjusted parallel with the aforementioned set screw.

Once adjusted 12 years ago, I've never had to make any changes. This is a precision fence, and it cost less than $50 bucks.

[Rogue Sailor]

I bought a Jet 12" contractors saw about 12 years ago. It's a solid machine but the fence was crap, and it took a bit of tuning to square the trunion/blade. I was fortunate to find an article describing a fence modification in a woodworking magazine at the time (I think it was American Woodworker). The mod is based on the old drafting table system of cables and pulleys to keep everyting parallel and true.

I built the system using pulleys made from sliding door rollers. The system uses 6 pulleys. One each mounted vertically on the front and back corners (infeed and outfeed edges)of the port wing, and two pair monted horizontally, top and bottom, on a purpose built hardwood frame which is bolted to the outboard edge of the starboard wing. Steel aircraft cable runs in a contiuous loop around three sides of the saw. The cable ends are attached to the bottom front of the fence, and the lower cable is clamped with a set screw to an aluminum tang mounted on the bottom of the fence on the outboard end. There is a turnbuckle provided in the loop for tension adjustent. The fence is adjusted parallel with the aforementioned set screw.

Once adjusted 12 years ago, I've never had to make any changes. This is a precision fence, and it cost less than $50 bucks.

[wingnut]

chad,
i know this a quite a bit late and you already made your decision. but, i still am going to chime in. i have a grizzly saw similar to the one you just bought and have been extremely happy with it. (i should be happy with it since it was given to me) the only thing i would agree with everyone else is, save you pennies and get a different fence for it. i've had mine now for a couple of years and have been setting aside some cash to get a different fence for it. the fence that comes with it is o.k., but after using a co-workers saw (he bought a grizzly too, not sure on the model) with the shopfox fence, i finally relized mine had to go! so, enjoy the saw i'm sure you will and it should last you a long time.
wingnut smile.gif

[wingnut]

chad,
i know this a quite a bit late and you already made your decision. but, i still am going to chime in. i have a grizzly saw similar to the one you just bought and have been extremely happy with it. (i should be happy with it since it was given to me) the only thing i would agree with everyone else is, save you pennies and get a different fence for it. i've had mine now for a couple of years and have been setting aside some cash to get a different fence for it. the fence that comes with it is o.k., but after using a co-workers saw (he bought a grizzly too, not sure on the model) with the shopfox fence, i finally relized mine had to go! so, enjoy the saw i'm sure you will and it should last you a long time.
wingnut smile.gif

[wingnut]

chad,
i know this a quite a bit late and you already made your decision. but, i still am going to chime in. i have a grizzly saw similar to the one you just bought and have been extremely happy with it. (i should be happy with it since it was given to me) the only thing i would agree with everyone else is, save you pennies and get a different fence for it. i've had mine now for a couple of years and have been setting aside some cash to get a different fence for it. the fence that comes with it is o.k., but after using a co-workers saw (he bought a grizzly too, not sure on the model) with the shopfox fence, i finally relized mine had to go! so, enjoy the saw i'm sure you will and it should last you a long time.
wingnut smile.gif

[cs]

Another positive reply to reinforce my decission. Guess I did something right this time.

Chad

[cs]

Another positive reply to reinforce my decission. Guess I did something right this time.

Chad

[cs]

Another positive reply to reinforce my decission. Guess I did something right this time.

Chad

[newf]

I would go for a used one.only way to get that money to work for you.I bought a 9"Rockwell Beaver. cast iron,good solid fence,accurate mitre cuts,with belt drive for $200 cnd.you cant beat it.I built three boats and lots of home projects with it.no way you could get even close to the quality with a new saw, not even for $800.don't know bout down your way but here there's lots of these saws for sale.most of them made in the 60's -70"s

[newf]

I would go for a used one.only way to get that money to work for you.I bought a 9"Rockwell Beaver. cast iron,good solid fence,accurate mitre cuts,with belt drive for $200 cnd.you cant beat it.I built three boats and lots of home projects with it.no way you could get even close to the quality with a new saw, not even for $800.don't know bout down your way but here there's lots of these saws for sale.most of them made in the 60's -70"s

[newf]

I would go for a used one.only way to get that money to work for you.I bought a 9"Rockwell Beaver. cast iron,good solid fence,accurate mitre cuts,with belt drive for $200 cnd.you cant beat it.I built three boats and lots of home projects with it.no way you could get even close to the quality with a new saw, not even for $800.don't know bout down your way but here there's lots of these saws for sale.most of them made in the 60's -70"s

[John Blazy]

Sounds like you've made your decision, which will be very good based on this thread feedback, but I thought I'd throw in a few tips from my professional furniture building experience as a welcome gift into your new home - oops, saw. I agree with Ken, Dale & all you guys about buying an older used saw to some degree, cuz you will still need to check, tune and fix it to your standards, whether new or used. "Tuning" a saw is important, and here are the main things that come to mind:

- Align the table with the arbor, if it is off. Easy to overlook this, meaning that you need to align the table (by loosening the bolts on the underside and twisting it left or right to make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter guage slots. I've seen saws that have fences aligned well to the blade, but not the blade to the table.

- reface the arbor flange as you've probably already read about here.

- add an extension table for a router, and for cross cutting 4 x 8's. If you don't have 52" rip capacity, get a Tru-grip straight-edge as your extended fence. You should have one on your drill press table as well - excellent tool - even makes a hand circular saw into a jobsite table saw.

- build a quick storage cabinet that is exactly as high as the table and use it as the runnoff table that catches your stock exiting the blade. Round off the leading edge real well so that drooping stock 'ramps' up on it.

- Add a hinge-mounted flip-up extension table with rollers on the left table edge. You need to measure right, so the bearing surface of the rollers is level with the table (I guess I'll have to send a picture). You can make it flip up, and flip down the leg that is also hinged to the far left end of the roller table. Table has four rollers on it, where the last two are about 16" beyond the blade. This has been absolutely indispensible, as I can crosscut 5 x 9 sheets of melamine, exit the blade and let go without the anything falling off, and all by myself.

- You definitely want a good fence - Get one, make one or modify existing one, - just GET one.

- Zero-out (calibrate) fence to blade, and adjust fence so it clamps slightly "open" on blade exit, not exactly parallel. You should never have to pull out a tape to measure your fence opening (uness going beyond the built-in tape). Whenever someone is using my saw (beisemeyer) and they pull out a tape, I slap it out of their hands (in my head).

- Align the mitre guage to the angle you need when torquing to the left or right to minimize off-angle mistakes due to the slop in the mitre guage slot.

- Glue some build-up blocks into the cast-iron underside of the table so you can clamp your cove-making fence or other jigs to the table, like a power feeder.

That's all I can think of now - any other's ? - JB

[John Blazy]

Sounds like you've made your decision, which will be very good based on this thread feedback, but I thought I'd throw in a few tips from my professional furniture building experience as a welcome gift into your new home - oops, saw. I agree with Ken, Dale & all you guys about buying an older used saw to some degree, cuz you will still need to check, tune and fix it to your standards, whether new or used. "Tuning" a saw is important, and here are the main things that come to mind:

- Align the table with the arbor, if it is off. Easy to overlook this, meaning that you need to align the table (by loosening the bolts on the underside and twisting it left or right to make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter guage slots. I've seen saws that have fences aligned well to the blade, but not the blade to the table.

- reface the arbor flange as you've probably already read about here.

- add an extension table for a router, and for cross cutting 4 x 8's. If you don't have 52" rip capacity, get a Tru-grip straight-edge as your extended fence. You should have one on your drill press table as well - excellent tool - even makes a hand circular saw into a jobsite table saw.

- build a quick storage cabinet that is exactly as high as the table and use it as the runnoff table that catches your stock exiting the blade. Round off the leading edge real well so that drooping stock 'ramps' up on it.

- Add a hinge-mounted flip-up extension table with rollers on the left table edge. You need to measure right, so the bearing surface of the rollers is level with the table (I guess I'll have to send a picture). You can make it flip up, and flip down the leg that is also hinged to the far left end of the roller table. Table has four rollers on it, where the last two are about 16" beyond the blade. This has been absolutely indispensible, as I can crosscut 5 x 9 sheets of melamine, exit the blade and let go without the anything falling off, and all by myself.

- You definitely want a good fence - Get one, make one or modify existing one, - just GET one.

- Zero-out (calibrate) fence to blade, and adjust fence so it clamps slightly "open" on blade exit, not exactly parallel. You should never have to pull out a tape to measure your fence opening (uness going beyond the built-in tape). Whenever someone is using my saw (beisemeyer) and they pull out a tape, I slap it out of their hands (in my head).

- Align the mitre guage to the angle you need when torquing to the left or right to minimize off-angle mistakes due to the slop in the mitre guage slot.

- Glue some build-up blocks into the cast-iron underside of the table so you can clamp your cove-making fence or other jigs to the table, like a power feeder.

That's all I can think of now - any other's ? - JB

[John Blazy]

Sounds like you've made your decision, which will be very good based on this thread feedback, but I thought I'd throw in a few tips from my professional furniture building experience as a welcome gift into your new home - oops, saw. I agree with Ken, Dale & all you guys about buying an older used saw to some degree, cuz you will still need to check, tune and fix it to your standards, whether new or used. "Tuning" a saw is important, and here are the main things that come to mind:

- Align the table with the arbor, if it is off. Easy to overlook this, meaning that you need to align the table (by loosening the bolts on the underside and twisting it left or right to make sure that the blade is parallel to the miter guage slots. I've seen saws that have fences aligned well to the blade, but not the blade to the table.

- reface the arbor flange as you've probably already read about here.

- add an extension table for a router, and for cross cutting 4 x 8's. If you don't have 52" rip capacity, get a Tru-grip straight-edge as your extended fence. You should have one on your drill press table as well - excellent tool - even makes a hand circular saw into a jobsite table saw.

- build a quick storage cabinet that is exactly as high as the table and use it as the runnoff table that catches your stock exiting the blade. Round off the leading edge real well so that drooping stock 'ramps' up on it.

- Add a hinge-mounted flip-up extension table with rollers on the left table edge. You need to measure right, so the bearing surface of the rollers is level with the table (I guess I'll have to send a picture). You can make it flip up, and flip down the leg that is also hinged to the far left end of the roller table. Table has four rollers on it, where the last two are about 16" beyond the blade. This has been absolutely indispensible, as I can crosscut 5 x 9 sheets of melamine, exit the blade and let go without the anything falling off, and all by myself.

- You definitely want a good fence - Get one, make one or modify existing one, - just GET one.

- Zero-out (calibrate) fence to blade, and adjust fence so it clamps slightly "open" on blade exit, not exactly parallel. You should never have to pull out a tape to measure your fence opening (uness going beyond the built-in tape). Whenever someone is using my saw (beisemeyer) and they pull out a tape, I slap it out of their hands (in my head).

- Align the mitre guage to the angle you need when torquing to the left or right to minimize off-angle mistakes due to the slop in the mitre guage slot.

- Glue some build-up blocks into the cast-iron underside of the table so you can clamp your cove-making fence or other jigs to the table, like a power feeder.

That's all I can think of now - any other's ? - JB

[scepticus]

I'm surprised at how seldom I use my table saw. I can easily imagine never using it for boat building.

for ripping I almost always use my bandsaw and then make a pass on the joiner. even after cleaning up the cut on the joiner the kerf is thinner than the table saw.

small cross cuts almost always happen on the chopsaw.

About the only stuff that seems to require the table saw is cutting straight lines on sheet goods (ie building cabinets).

[scepticus]

I'm surprised at how seldom I use my table saw. I can easily imagine never using it for boat building.

for ripping I almost always use my bandsaw and then make a pass on the joiner. even after cleaning up the cut on the joiner the kerf is thinner than the table saw.

small cross cuts almost always happen on the chopsaw.

About the only stuff that seems to require the table saw is cutting straight lines on sheet goods (ie building cabinets).

[scepticus]

I'm surprised at how seldom I use my table saw. I can easily imagine never using it for boat building.

for ripping I almost always use my bandsaw and then make a pass on the joiner. even after cleaning up the cut on the joiner the kerf is thinner than the table saw.

small cross cuts almost always happen on the chopsaw.

About the only stuff that seems to require the table saw is cutting straight lines on sheet goods (ie building cabinets).

[John Blazy]

Interesting point. My Unisaw was down for the entire building of my boat up to the point that I am now, where I need to make cove moulding for the coaming. I just finished wiring it in here at my new shop, so most of my cutting was with my hand circ saw due to the gentle curves most of the time, and bandsaw for the rest. It just feels so good now that is up and running though. There is something about the table saw that completes a man . . . (hope my wife doesn't read this)

[John Blazy]

Interesting point. My Unisaw was down for the entire building of my boat up to the point that I am now, where I need to make cove moulding for the coaming. I just finished wiring it in here at my new shop, so most of my cutting was with my hand circ saw due to the gentle curves most of the time, and bandsaw for the rest. It just feels so good now that is up and running though. There is something about the table saw that completes a man . . . (hope my wife doesn't read this)

[John Blazy]

Interesting point. My Unisaw was down for the entire building of my boat up to the point that I am now, where I need to make cove moulding for the coaming. I just finished wiring it in here at my new shop, so most of my cutting was with my hand circ saw due to the gentle curves most of the time, and bandsaw for the rest. It just feels so good now that is up and running though. There is something about the table saw that completes a man . . . (hope my wife doesn't read this)

[rbgarr]

Question about old cast iron tablesaw maintenance: I was just given my grandfather's (via my mother after my Dad's death) 8" cast iron table saw from the 40's. There's no brand name anywhere on it that I can find but it's in excellent shape and I'm looking forward to using it. Three guides came with it, and their faces are lignum vitae. Very nice. I have to keep the saw in my garage (damp) until October when I'll take it home to my shop.

What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?

TIA

[ 08-15-2003, 06:37 AM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[rbgarr]

Question about old cast iron tablesaw maintenance: I was just given my grandfather's (via my mother after my Dad's death) 8" cast iron table saw from the 40's. There's no brand name anywhere on it that I can find but it's in excellent shape and I'm looking forward to using it. Three guides came with it, and their faces are lignum vitae. Very nice. I have to keep the saw in my garage (damp) until October when I'll take it home to my shop.

What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?

TIA

[ 08-15-2003, 06:37 AM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[rbgarr]

Question about old cast iron tablesaw maintenance: I was just given my grandfather's (via my mother after my Dad's death) 8" cast iron table saw from the 40's. There's no brand name anywhere on it that I can find but it's in excellent shape and I'm looking forward to using it. Three guides came with it, and their faces are lignum vitae. Very nice. I have to keep the saw in my garage (damp) until October when I'll take it home to my shop.

What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?

TIA

[ 08-15-2003, 06:37 AM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[cs]

Thats a good question and one I would like an answer for also.

Chad

[cs]

Thats a good question and one I would like an answer for also.

Chad

[cs]

Thats a good question and one I would like an answer for also.

Chad

[Dave Fleming]

Interesting thread here.

I am a proponent of old arn tis true. As for new stuff I have my own set of criteria in determing what I consider good and will not go into that here.

For CI surfaces in areas where there is climatic change and moisture in the air, may I suggest Trewax from your local ACE or TrueValue hdwr. store. If no Trewax in your area then some form of plain old furniture wax will do.

***Do NOT use any wax containing sillycones!!***

Those tool covers from HTC look interesting but I have no experience with one so do your own investigating.

A tarp with some real Camphor blocks set under the tarp might help. Camphor was the traditional way shipwrights and even uptown carpenters kept rust at bay. That is why an old tool chest from some long gone craftsman is probably lined with Camphor Wood or in some cases Cedar of Lebanon.

I understand the Japanese use some different oils to protect tools from rust. Camillia and Jasmine IIRC.

[Dave Fleming]

Interesting thread here.

I am a proponent of old arn tis true. As for new stuff I have my own set of criteria in determing what I consider good and will not go into that here.

For CI surfaces in areas where there is climatic change and moisture in the air, may I suggest Trewax from your local ACE or TrueValue hdwr. store. If no Trewax in your area then some form of plain old furniture wax will do.

***Do NOT use any wax containing sillycones!!***

Those tool covers from HTC look interesting but I have no experience with one so do your own investigating.

A tarp with some real Camphor blocks set under the tarp might help. Camphor was the traditional way shipwrights and even uptown carpenters kept rust at bay. That is why an old tool chest from some long gone craftsman is probably lined with Camphor Wood or in some cases Cedar of Lebanon.

I understand the Japanese use some different oils to protect tools from rust. Camillia and Jasmine IIRC.

[Dave Fleming]

Interesting thread here.

I am a proponent of old arn tis true. As for new stuff I have my own set of criteria in determing what I consider good and will not go into that here.

For CI surfaces in areas where there is climatic change and moisture in the air, may I suggest Trewax from your local ACE or TrueValue hdwr. store. If no Trewax in your area then some form of plain old furniture wax will do.

***Do NOT use any wax containing sillycones!!***

Those tool covers from HTC look interesting but I have no experience with one so do your own investigating.

A tarp with some real Camphor blocks set under the tarp might help. Camphor was the traditional way shipwrights and even uptown carpenters kept rust at bay. That is why an old tool chest from some long gone craftsman is probably lined with Camphor Wood or in some cases Cedar of Lebanon.

I understand the Japanese use some different oils to protect tools from rust. Camillia and Jasmine IIRC.

[Barry]

Paste wax or Topcote

BOSTIK® TOPCOTE® features a unique fluoropolymer technology that dramatically reduces sliding friction on table saws while it repels dust, dirt, moisture and prevents corrosion. Its dry formula contains no silicone or petroleum and it will never stain wood or interfere with glues or finishes.

TopCote forms a durable, water-repelling dry film on saw tables and tool surfaces to reduce sliding friction and eliminate surface "hang ups." Compared to paste wax, TopCote is 30% slicker, prevents rust longer and is easier to use.

Benefits:
Contains no silicone
Prevents rust 5 times longer than wax or silicone
Lasts 3 times longer than wax

[Barry]

Paste wax or Topcote

BOSTIK® TOPCOTE® features a unique fluoropolymer technology that dramatically reduces sliding friction on table saws while it repels dust, dirt, moisture and prevents corrosion. Its dry formula contains no silicone or petroleum and it will never stain wood or interfere with glues or finishes.

TopCote forms a durable, water-repelling dry film on saw tables and tool surfaces to reduce sliding friction and eliminate surface "hang ups." Compared to paste wax, TopCote is 30% slicker, prevents rust longer and is easier to use.

Benefits:
Contains no silicone
Prevents rust 5 times longer than wax or silicone
Lasts 3 times longer than wax

[Barry]

Paste wax or Topcote

BOSTIK® TOPCOTE® features a unique fluoropolymer technology that dramatically reduces sliding friction on table saws while it repels dust, dirt, moisture and prevents corrosion. Its dry formula contains no silicone or petroleum and it will never stain wood or interfere with glues or finishes.

TopCote forms a durable, water-repelling dry film on saw tables and tool surfaces to reduce sliding friction and eliminate surface "hang ups." Compared to paste wax, TopCote is 30% slicker, prevents rust longer and is easier to use.

Benefits:
Contains no silicone
Prevents rust 5 times longer than wax or silicone
Lasts 3 times longer than wax

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by rbgarr:
What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?Boeshield T-9 (http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm)

Think of it as Boeing's improvement on cosmoline [easier to remove tho. Just use naptha.] See their web site for technical details.

[ 08-15-2003, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by rbgarr:
What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?Boeshield T-9 (http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm)

Think of it as Boeing's improvement on cosmoline [easier to remove tho. Just use naptha.] See their web site for technical details.

[ 08-15-2003, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Nicholas Carey]

Originally posted by rbgarr:
What are good ways to keep the tabletop and non-painted surfaces from rusting in the meantime? Paraffin wax? Light oil? WD-40?Boeshield T-9 (http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm)

Think of it as Boeing's improvement on cosmoline [easier to remove tho. Just use naptha.] See their web site for technical details.

[ 08-15-2003, 02:55 PM: Message edited by: Nicholas Carey ]

[Mrleft8]

Just a thought.... The Festool "skilsaw" with the long saw track will do what you want, and is in your price range. It's also completely portable. I got one a month ago, it gives as good or better a cut than my unisaw. You can't cut dadoes with it, but for cutting sheet goods to size, it's worth its weight in gold.

[Mrleft8]

Just a thought.... The Festool "skilsaw" with the long saw track will do what you want, and is in your price range. It's also completely portable. I got one a month ago, it gives as good or better a cut than my unisaw. You can't cut dadoes with it, but for cutting sheet goods to size, it's worth its weight in gold.

[Mrleft8]

Just a thought.... The Festool "skilsaw" with the long saw track will do what you want, and is in your price range. It's also completely portable. I got one a month ago, it gives as good or better a cut than my unisaw. You can't cut dadoes with it, but for cutting sheet goods to size, it's worth its weight in gold.

[Venchka]

Would anyone hazard a guess on the relative merits of a $500 Delta and a $900 DeWalt table saw? They both had a belt driven blade. Beyond that, I really don't know what to look for. Except maybe the Dewalt used for $500.

[Venchka]

Would anyone hazard a guess on the relative merits of a $500 Delta and a $900 DeWalt table saw? They both had a belt driven blade. Beyond that, I really don't know what to look for. Except maybe the Dewalt used for $500.

[Venchka]

Would anyone hazard a guess on the relative merits of a $500 Delta and a $900 DeWalt table saw? They both had a belt driven blade. Beyond that, I really don't know what to look for. Except maybe the Dewalt used for $500.

[Scott Rosen]

First, I agree with Nicholas on the Boeshield. It leaves WD-40 in the dust when it comes to protecting and lubricating metals. I use it on my boat's fittings. Some of the applications have lasted over a year. Even the external ones are good for the entire season.

Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it. It's more accurate and precise than my skills require, so anything more expensive would have been overkill for me.

[Scott Rosen]

First, I agree with Nicholas on the Boeshield. It leaves WD-40 in the dust when it comes to protecting and lubricating metals. I use it on my boat's fittings. Some of the applications have lasted over a year. Even the external ones are good for the entire season.

Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it. It's more accurate and precise than my skills require, so anything more expensive would have been overkill for me.

[Scott Rosen]

First, I agree with Nicholas on the Boeshield. It leaves WD-40 in the dust when it comes to protecting and lubricating metals. I use it on my boat's fittings. Some of the applications have lasted over a year. Even the external ones are good for the entire season.

Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it. It's more accurate and precise than my skills require, so anything more expensive would have been overkill for me.

[Venchka]

Thanks, Scott. I agree, most power tools above the $49.95 level are better than I am. I also remembered that both saws had 2hp motors. Is that what your Delts has and is it sufficient for your needs?
Where does one get this wonderful fence and do they fit most saws? Same for the extension table, is it a Delta accessory?
I am full of questions. Sorry.

[Venchka]

Thanks, Scott. I agree, most power tools above the $49.95 level are better than I am. I also remembered that both saws had 2hp motors. Is that what your Delts has and is it sufficient for your needs?
Where does one get this wonderful fence and do they fit most saws? Same for the extension table, is it a Delta accessory?
I am full of questions. Sorry.

[Venchka]

Thanks, Scott. I agree, most power tools above the $49.95 level are better than I am. I also remembered that both saws had 2hp motors. Is that what your Delts has and is it sufficient for your needs?
Where does one get this wonderful fence and do they fit most saws? Same for the extension table, is it a Delta accessory?
I am full of questions. Sorry.

[Scott Rosen]

Wayne,

You may find some answers at these sites.

Coastal Tool (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/main.htm?E+coastest)

Delta Woodworking (http://www.deltawoodworking.com)

[ 08-19-2003, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Scott Rosen ]

[Scott Rosen]

Wayne,

You may find some answers at these sites.

Coastal Tool (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/main.htm?E+coastest)

Delta Woodworking (http://www.deltawoodworking.com)

[ 08-19-2003, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Scott Rosen ]

[Scott Rosen]

Wayne,

You may find some answers at these sites.

Coastal Tool (http://www.coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/main.htm?E+coastest)

Delta Woodworking (http://www.deltawoodworking.com)

[ 08-19-2003, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Scott Rosen ]

[Stiletto]

I have considered buying a DeWalt as a transportable saw for general use. I liked the rack and pinion fence on it. It seems like a good saw for the weight. You could do worse than getting a second hand one at a good price.
If you wanted a saw for shop use only , a second hand heavy duty model would probably be better.

[Stiletto]

I have considered buying a DeWalt as a transportable saw for general use. I liked the rack and pinion fence on it. It seems like a good saw for the weight. You could do worse than getting a second hand one at a good price.
If you wanted a saw for shop use only , a second hand heavy duty model would probably be better.

[Stiletto]

I have considered buying a DeWalt as a transportable saw for general use. I liked the rack and pinion fence on it. It seems like a good saw for the weight. You could do worse than getting a second hand one at a good price.
If you wanted a saw for shop use only , a second hand heavy duty model would probably be better.

[Venchka]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it.Thanks, Scott! Your Delta looks like one serious mamma jamma saw as my Cajun buddies are prone to say! I would never be able to blame bad cuts on the saw. Lucky you, being able to drive over to Coastal Tools and wag one home. I'll poke around the Swamp and see if there are any real Delta dealers in the neighborhood.

[Venchka]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it.Thanks, Scott! Your Delta looks like one serious mamma jamma saw as my Cajun buddies are prone to say! I would never be able to blame bad cuts on the saw. Lucky you, being able to drive over to Coastal Tools and wag one home. I'll poke around the Swamp and see if there are any real Delta dealers in the neighborhood.

[Venchka]

Originally posted by Scott Rosen:
Table saws. I'm no expert, and I haven't tried a lot of them, but I bought a Delta contractor's saw with a Bissemeyer fence and an extension table for between $500 and $750, and I'm very pleased with it.Thanks, Scott! Your Delta looks like one serious mamma jamma saw as my Cajun buddies are prone to say! I would never be able to blame bad cuts on the saw. Lucky you, being able to drive over to Coastal Tools and wag one home. I'll poke around the Swamp and see if there are any real Delta dealers in the neighborhood.

[cs]

Since this thread has resurfaced, I will add that I love my Grizzly table saw.

Chad

[cs]

Since this thread has resurfaced, I will add that I love my Grizzly table saw.

Chad

[cs]

Since this thread has resurfaced, I will add that I love my Grizzly table saw.

Chad