Fire Extinguisher colour code

[ion barnes]

I happened to have a conversation with an insurance adjuster and inpart told me that Europe has a colour code for the various kinds of fire extinguishers but he could not repeat it with any accuracy. Anyone way over there be of assistance?

[ion barnes]

I happened to have a conversation with an insurance adjuster and inpart told me that Europe has a colour code for the various kinds of fire extinguishers but he could not repeat it with any accuracy. Anyone way over there be of assistance?

[ion barnes]

I happened to have a conversation with an insurance adjuster and inpart told me that Europe has a colour code for the various kinds of fire extinguishers but he could not repeat it with any accuracy. Anyone way over there be of assistance?

[capt jake]

From memory only;
Red: all fire types except metal
Yellow: combustible metals

That is it! If you are talking only the color of the 'extinguisher'! No other color for extinguishers (in the USA)!

Aren't insurance guys great?? Always quoting somthing that is not there?? Not to mention OSHA, NIOSH!! Always quoting there own stuff (in conflict with the other codes)! Hey, how's about's we get together???? OOPS, sorry, I might be stepping on political toes!!!!! Makes TOOO much SENSE!!

Seriously! Why are there soooo many different 'orginizations' who think 'they are right'????? Too many conflicts causes too much confusion to he hard working businessman!! :(

Cripes! They are all based off the same NFPA code anyway!! (speaking of the USA only).

Can you tell you hit a hot button???? :D :D

[capt jake]

From memory only;
Red: all fire types except metal
Yellow: combustible metals

That is it! If you are talking only the color of the 'extinguisher'! No other color for extinguishers (in the USA)!

Aren't insurance guys great?? Always quoting somthing that is not there?? Not to mention OSHA, NIOSH!! Always quoting there own stuff (in conflict with the other codes)! Hey, how's about's we get together???? OOPS, sorry, I might be stepping on political toes!!!!! Makes TOOO much SENSE!!

Seriously! Why are there soooo many different 'orginizations' who think 'they are right'????? Too many conflicts causes too much confusion to he hard working businessman!! :(

Cripes! They are all based off the same NFPA code anyway!! (speaking of the USA only).

Can you tell you hit a hot button???? :D :D

[capt jake]

From memory only;
Red: all fire types except metal
Yellow: combustible metals

That is it! If you are talking only the color of the 'extinguisher'! No other color for extinguishers (in the USA)!

Aren't insurance guys great?? Always quoting somthing that is not there?? Not to mention OSHA, NIOSH!! Always quoting there own stuff (in conflict with the other codes)! Hey, how's about's we get together???? OOPS, sorry, I might be stepping on political toes!!!!! Makes TOOO much SENSE!!

Seriously! Why are there soooo many different 'orginizations' who think 'they are right'????? Too many conflicts causes too much confusion to he hard working businessman!! :(

Cripes! They are all based off the same NFPA code anyway!! (speaking of the USA only).

Can you tell you hit a hot button???? :D :D

[gary porter]

Thats interesting, I have two extinguishers on my boat, one red and one white. They are both suposed to meet the coast gaurd etc. specs. Where does white fit in??
Gary

[gary porter]

Thats interesting, I have two extinguishers on my boat, one red and one white. They are both suposed to meet the coast gaurd etc. specs. Where does white fit in??
Gary

[gary porter]

Thats interesting, I have two extinguishers on my boat, one red and one white. They are both suposed to meet the coast gaurd etc. specs. Where does white fit in??
Gary

[capt jake]

Good question Gary!
Only from memory again... White is a color designated by the CCG for flamable liquids (I think). If I recall, it is a CG thing to have them colored white.

Here again, I will have to go and check the books (though I am off for 2 weeks, yippee!), but I believe this is a CG requirement for the color(contrary to other codes).

Please let me know, as I am also curious at this point. I am very familiar with NFPA 10, UFC10 and the like.

Please e-mail your response to me also, as I am not always here to read the responses.

I love the controversy between different laws!! I have had to deal with the feds on some issues.... INTERESTING!!!! smile.gif ( :D

[capt jake]

Good question Gary!
Only from memory again... White is a color designated by the CCG for flamable liquids (I think). If I recall, it is a CG thing to have them colored white.

Here again, I will have to go and check the books (though I am off for 2 weeks, yippee!), but I believe this is a CG requirement for the color(contrary to other codes).

Please let me know, as I am also curious at this point. I am very familiar with NFPA 10, UFC10 and the like.

Please e-mail your response to me also, as I am not always here to read the responses.

I love the controversy between different laws!! I have had to deal with the feds on some issues.... INTERESTING!!!! smile.gif ( :D

[capt jake]

Good question Gary!
Only from memory again... White is a color designated by the CCG for flamable liquids (I think). If I recall, it is a CG thing to have them colored white.

Here again, I will have to go and check the books (though I am off for 2 weeks, yippee!), but I believe this is a CG requirement for the color(contrary to other codes).

Please let me know, as I am also curious at this point. I am very familiar with NFPA 10, UFC10 and the like.

Please e-mail your response to me also, as I am not always here to read the responses.

I love the controversy between different laws!! I have had to deal with the feds on some issues.... INTERESTING!!!! smile.gif ( :D

[Rocky]

For my two cents' worth, I had a chimney fire years ago and went to put out the fire in the hearth with a BC extinguisher. Guess what it did to the burning wood? Nothin! Gotta have a ABC.

[Rocky]

For my two cents' worth, I had a chimney fire years ago and went to put out the fire in the hearth with a BC extinguisher. Guess what it did to the burning wood? Nothin! Gotta have a ABC.

[Rocky]

For my two cents' worth, I had a chimney fire years ago and went to put out the fire in the hearth with a BC extinguisher. Guess what it did to the burning wood? Nothin! Gotta have a ABC.

[capt jake]

An ABC extinguisher should be painted red! (on land codes, I am refering to).
The white thing I am curious about. I have seen them, though I think it is one of those obscure CG requirements. Dave Fleming is the guy who seems to be in the 'know'!

Dave?

[capt jake]

An ABC extinguisher should be painted red! (on land codes, I am refering to).
The white thing I am curious about. I have seen them, though I think it is one of those obscure CG requirements. Dave Fleming is the guy who seems to be in the 'know'!

Dave?

[capt jake]

An ABC extinguisher should be painted red! (on land codes, I am refering to).
The white thing I am curious about. I have seen them, though I think it is one of those obscure CG requirements. Dave Fleming is the guy who seems to be in the 'know'!

Dave?

[Mrleft8]

Far as I know the "White" extiguishers are for "C" only extinguishers.

[Mrleft8]

Far as I know the "White" extiguishers are for "C" only extinguishers.

[Mrleft8]

Far as I know the "White" extiguishers are for "C" only extinguishers.

[ion barnes]

Well this insurance guy said there was not a uniform code in N. America, only Europe. At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour,for those of us that are not colour blind. While I am here, can someone clarify the USCG requirments of approved extinguishers. Is it both the container and the holder, and what is the reason. Is it corosion resistance?

[ion barnes]

Well this insurance guy said there was not a uniform code in N. America, only Europe. At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour,for those of us that are not colour blind. While I am here, can someone clarify the USCG requirments of approved extinguishers. Is it both the container and the holder, and what is the reason. Is it corosion resistance?

[ion barnes]

Well this insurance guy said there was not a uniform code in N. America, only Europe. At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour,for those of us that are not colour blind. While I am here, can someone clarify the USCG requirments of approved extinguishers. Is it both the container and the holder, and what is the reason. Is it corosion resistance?

[capt jake]

At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour I think you are right on mfg preference.

[capt jake]

At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour I think you are right on mfg preference.

[capt jake]

At work (hospital) we have chrome - water, had blue - haylon, orange and red - dry chem, and red - CO2. I remember once that it was manufacturer's preference! I was taught to look for the physical difference, ie the horn of the CO2. Sure would make a difference in the heat of the moment to not read the directions et al, but just connect with colour I think you are right on mfg preference.

[ACB]

The old (pre-1997) code in Britain was:

Water/CO2 - Red. Class A - solids
Foam - cream (that's the "white" one, I fancy)A+B
Dry powder - Blue. Classes A+B+C (and special powders for D (metal fires)
CO2 - Black Class E (electrical fires)
Halon - Lime Green (illegal as from 2003)

Since 1997 all extinguishers must be red, but with a band of colour as above to show what's inside.

[ACB]

The old (pre-1997) code in Britain was:

Water/CO2 - Red. Class A - solids
Foam - cream (that's the "white" one, I fancy)A+B
Dry powder - Blue. Classes A+B+C (and special powders for D (metal fires)
CO2 - Black Class E (electrical fires)
Halon - Lime Green (illegal as from 2003)

Since 1997 all extinguishers must be red, but with a band of colour as above to show what's inside.

[ACB]

The old (pre-1997) code in Britain was:

Water/CO2 - Red. Class A - solids
Foam - cream (that's the "white" one, I fancy)A+B
Dry powder - Blue. Classes A+B+C (and special powders for D (metal fires)
CO2 - Black Class E (electrical fires)
Halon - Lime Green (illegal as from 2003)

Since 1997 all extinguishers must be red, but with a band of colour as above to show what's inside.

[Jamie Hascall]

The basic ABC ones that West Marine sells are white, I think purely for aesthetic purposes. I put out a kerosene fire earlier this year with a BC that thankfully worked well and saved the boat. If the wood had caught I don't think I would have had a snowballs chance anyway. The good thing is that the BC (Potassium Bicarbonate) was easy to vacuum up afterwards. I'm told it's not so easy with the ABC (monoammonium Phosphate). The wood rating of the ABC is also pretty small in comparison to B and C. Probably better off with water for a wood fire.

Jamie

[Jamie Hascall]

The basic ABC ones that West Marine sells are white, I think purely for aesthetic purposes. I put out a kerosene fire earlier this year with a BC that thankfully worked well and saved the boat. If the wood had caught I don't think I would have had a snowballs chance anyway. The good thing is that the BC (Potassium Bicarbonate) was easy to vacuum up afterwards. I'm told it's not so easy with the ABC (monoammonium Phosphate). The wood rating of the ABC is also pretty small in comparison to B and C. Probably better off with water for a wood fire.

Jamie

[Jamie Hascall]

The basic ABC ones that West Marine sells are white, I think purely for aesthetic purposes. I put out a kerosene fire earlier this year with a BC that thankfully worked well and saved the boat. If the wood had caught I don't think I would have had a snowballs chance anyway. The good thing is that the BC (Potassium Bicarbonate) was easy to vacuum up afterwards. I'm told it's not so easy with the ABC (monoammonium Phosphate). The wood rating of the ABC is also pretty small in comparison to B and C. Probably better off with water for a wood fire.

Jamie

[capt jake]

Water is always better on wood and paper. The ratings on the side of the extinguishers can be confusing. Type 'A' has a different standard than does 'B'. They all refer to how 'large' of a fire they are rated to put out. These rating are set in a laboratory in controlled conditions.

A ordinary combustibles
B flammable liquids
C energized electrical
D combustible metals
K wet chemical for deep frying operations

[capt jake]

Water is always better on wood and paper. The ratings on the side of the extinguishers can be confusing. Type 'A' has a different standard than does 'B'. They all refer to how 'large' of a fire they are rated to put out. These rating are set in a laboratory in controlled conditions.

A ordinary combustibles
B flammable liquids
C energized electrical
D combustible metals
K wet chemical for deep frying operations

[capt jake]

Water is always better on wood and paper. The ratings on the side of the extinguishers can be confusing. Type 'A' has a different standard than does 'B'. They all refer to how 'large' of a fire they are rated to put out. These rating are set in a laboratory in controlled conditions.

A ordinary combustibles
B flammable liquids
C energized electrical
D combustible metals
K wet chemical for deep frying operations

[ACB]

well, there's a funny thing. Another difference.

The British codes are:

A - flammable solids

B - flammable liquids

C - flammable gases

D - metals

E - electrical apparatus

F - cooking oils, fats, etc.

So, the first rule in fighting a fire is, "Know which country you are in!"

[ACB]

well, there's a funny thing. Another difference.

The British codes are:

A - flammable solids

B - flammable liquids

C - flammable gases

D - metals

E - electrical apparatus

F - cooking oils, fats, etc.

So, the first rule in fighting a fire is, "Know which country you are in!"

[ACB]

well, there's a funny thing. Another difference.

The British codes are:

A - flammable solids

B - flammable liquids

C - flammable gases

D - metals

E - electrical apparatus

F - cooking oils, fats, etc.

So, the first rule in fighting a fire is, "Know which country you are in!"

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I like da fur extingushers that put out da fur. :D

I have all ABC on board.. I think.. a BIG engine room one.. plumbed in, and two eight pound and a four pound. A fire on board a twin gas engined boat is not a laughing matter

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I like da fur extingushers that put out da fur. :D

I have all ABC on board.. I think.. a BIG engine room one.. plumbed in, and two eight pound and a four pound. A fire on board a twin gas engined boat is not a laughing matter

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I like da fur extingushers that put out da fur. :D

I have all ABC on board.. I think.. a BIG engine room one.. plumbed in, and two eight pound and a four pound. A fire on board a twin gas engined boat is not a laughing matter

[capt jake]

Very interesting ACB!! I had no idea. smile.gif

[capt jake]

Very interesting ACB!! I had no idea. smile.gif

[capt jake]

Very interesting ACB!! I had no idea. smile.gif

[ACB]

The feeling is entirely mutual, Captain!

[ACB]

The feeling is entirely mutual, Captain!

[ACB]

The feeling is entirely mutual, Captain!

[gary porter]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat. The white ones are coast guard approved but the red ones can be also. Another itme thaat the KIDDE white extinguishers have is a non-corroding vlaves. My red one is Halon and maaay not be the new halotron 1. May need to replace that one. Most of the white ones are BC but some are ABC.
It would be nice to know your grabing the proper one as like you say, when theres a fire is not the time to find your glasses and read the lable.
Gary

[gary porter]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat. The white ones are coast guard approved but the red ones can be also. Another itme thaat the KIDDE white extinguishers have is a non-corroding vlaves. My red one is Halon and maaay not be the new halotron 1. May need to replace that one. Most of the white ones are BC but some are ABC.
It would be nice to know your grabing the proper one as like you say, when theres a fire is not the time to find your glasses and read the lable.
Gary

[gary porter]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat. The white ones are coast guard approved but the red ones can be also. Another itme thaat the KIDDE white extinguishers have is a non-corroding vlaves. My red one is Halon and maaay not be the new halotron 1. May need to replace that one. Most of the white ones are BC but some are ABC.
It would be nice to know your grabing the proper one as like you say, when theres a fire is not the time to find your glasses and read the lable.
Gary

[capt jake]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat Could be, I am not sure. I know in NFPA they still refer to the old 'pound' or weight rating system that was used in hte 40's and I think up into the 60's. Even though the old references are still there, they utilize the newer system, which is based on how much fire a given extinguisher can put out.

Example; 1A= a 3 demensional fire (ordinary combustibles, paper, wood), made of 1"x1" wood, compiled in a 1' square (stacked like lincoln logs). 2A= two times the previous example. and so on. Those big presurized water extinguishers, usually chrome, have a 2A rating.

10B relates to the amount of flammable liquid spread accross a flat surface. I can't recal if it is 10 sq/ft or 10'x10'. Either way, you get the idea.

C= no real rating, just tells you that it won't conduct electricity. After it is de-energized it would be classified as another type of fire (ie, a, b, d).

D= don't even go there. If you have a combustible metal fire (Magnesium, titanium, etc), turn and run your a** off in the other direction. Don't even try to put one out without full protective gear. Even then, it is hairy!

K= long story, great stuff! Interestingly McDonalds was the driving force behind this new type of extinguishing product. It work outstanding with the non-animal based greases that are cranked up to a higher temperature.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[capt jake]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat Could be, I am not sure. I know in NFPA they still refer to the old 'pound' or weight rating system that was used in hte 40's and I think up into the 60's. Even though the old references are still there, they utilize the newer system, which is based on how much fire a given extinguisher can put out.

Example; 1A= a 3 demensional fire (ordinary combustibles, paper, wood), made of 1"x1" wood, compiled in a 1' square (stacked like lincoln logs). 2A= two times the previous example. and so on. Those big presurized water extinguishers, usually chrome, have a 2A rating.

10B relates to the amount of flammable liquid spread accross a flat surface. I can't recal if it is 10 sq/ft or 10'x10'. Either way, you get the idea.

C= no real rating, just tells you that it won't conduct electricity. After it is de-energized it would be classified as another type of fire (ie, a, b, d).

D= don't even go there. If you have a combustible metal fire (Magnesium, titanium, etc), turn and run your a** off in the other direction. Don't even try to put one out without full protective gear. Even then, it is hairy!

K= long story, great stuff! Interestingly McDonalds was the driving force behind this new type of extinguishing product. It work outstanding with the non-animal based greases that are cranked up to a higher temperature.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[capt jake]

Seems the Coast Guard has a different system for rating thr extinguishers, that is by weight rather than fire fighting ability,,,something like thsat Could be, I am not sure. I know in NFPA they still refer to the old 'pound' or weight rating system that was used in hte 40's and I think up into the 60's. Even though the old references are still there, they utilize the newer system, which is based on how much fire a given extinguisher can put out.

Example; 1A= a 3 demensional fire (ordinary combustibles, paper, wood), made of 1"x1" wood, compiled in a 1' square (stacked like lincoln logs). 2A= two times the previous example. and so on. Those big presurized water extinguishers, usually chrome, have a 2A rating.

10B relates to the amount of flammable liquid spread accross a flat surface. I can't recal if it is 10 sq/ft or 10'x10'. Either way, you get the idea.

C= no real rating, just tells you that it won't conduct electricity. After it is de-energized it would be classified as another type of fire (ie, a, b, d).

D= don't even go there. If you have a combustible metal fire (Magnesium, titanium, etc), turn and run your a** off in the other direction. Don't even try to put one out without full protective gear. Even then, it is hairy!

K= long story, great stuff! Interestingly McDonalds was the driving force behind this new type of extinguishing product. It work outstanding with the non-animal based greases that are cranked up to a higher temperature.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:30 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[Ian G Wright]

I like my green Halon jobs, I shall keep them in secret. Why do people who don't know me or my boat keep telling me what I should carry? It's most irritating!

IanW.

[Ian G Wright]

I like my green Halon jobs, I shall keep them in secret. Why do people who don't know me or my boat keep telling me what I should carry? It's most irritating!

IanW.

[Ian G Wright]

I like my green Halon jobs, I shall keep them in secret. Why do people who don't know me or my boat keep telling me what I should carry? It's most irritating!

IanW.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? .. I carry certainly more than I need to by regulation, and I have a sniffer of course, just because of Gas and wood.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? .. I carry certainly more than I need to by regulation, and I have a sniffer of course, just because of Gas and wood.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? .. I carry certainly more than I need to by regulation, and I have a sniffer of course, just because of Gas and wood.

[capt jake]

I hear ya Ian! There has been a push to not allow halon anymore, due to it's 'ozone depleting' make-up. They are great extinguishers in confined spaces. Though YOU should not be in hte same confined space. The exclude O2 rapidly. They don't offer any cooling (which is needed on paper and wood), but they are great. They won't damage elctronics.

Oh, they come in all different colors.

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? I wouldn't think so. The key is being prepared. This means read the instruciton on the extinguisher. Know how to use it! Direct it at the base of the fire, no the flames. Take note of the distances speced out on the extinguisher.

Pressurized gas fires (compressed gases) should not be put out until you can secure that source.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[capt jake]

I hear ya Ian! There has been a push to not allow halon anymore, due to it's 'ozone depleting' make-up. They are great extinguishers in confined spaces. Though YOU should not be in hte same confined space. The exclude O2 rapidly. They don't offer any cooling (which is needed on paper and wood), but they are great. They won't damage elctronics.

Oh, they come in all different colors.

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? I wouldn't think so. The key is being prepared. This means read the instruciton on the extinguisher. Know how to use it! Direct it at the base of the fire, no the flames. Take note of the distances speced out on the extinguisher.

Pressurized gas fires (compressed gases) should not be put out until you can secure that source.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[capt jake]

I hear ya Ian! There has been a push to not allow halon anymore, due to it's 'ozone depleting' make-up. They are great extinguishers in confined spaces. Though YOU should not be in hte same confined space. The exclude O2 rapidly. They don't offer any cooling (which is needed on paper and wood), but they are great. They won't damage elctronics.

Oh, they come in all different colors.

Is there any reason to carry anything else but ABC's ? I wouldn't think so. The key is being prepared. This means read the instruciton on the extinguisher. Know how to use it! Direct it at the base of the fire, no the flames. Take note of the distances speced out on the extinguisher.

Pressurized gas fires (compressed gases) should not be put out until you can secure that source.

[ 12-19-2002, 06:57 PM: Message edited by: capt jake ]

[ion barnes]

Thanks for the imput guys, now I am waiting for Europe to call in. North of the 49th, some years ago there was a change made to rephrase the ability of an extinguisher, as not how much you carried but what it could do, hence the 1B or 2B rating as an example. I personally dont think much of it as I have not mentally converted my frypans to area measurment but I did try to compute the aproximate area of the engine space so that I could look for a CO2 extinguisher or Halon of correct size. I was told by the local extinguisher shop that the old Halon extinguishers were OK until they were discharged and that they could not be refilled because the (new)Halon requires a larger canister than previously used.

Note:USCG class B1 means 1.25gals of foam, or 4lb of CO2, or 2lb of dry chem. as per Boats US 2001 catalog

Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

Ian, you should check your local regs descreatly because you may not have to clandestinly hoard those extinguishers till used

Capt. Jake; Tell us more about McDonalds and the K stuff, and wouldn't a burning flare be considered a metal fire?


Peter, I might have a dry chem but I will always have a couple of CO2 tanks around. No cleanup " in aisle 5" afterwards. Dry chem is unbelievable, you will be vacuuming and damp mopping for days after the incident.

[ion barnes]

Thanks for the imput guys, now I am waiting for Europe to call in. North of the 49th, some years ago there was a change made to rephrase the ability of an extinguisher, as not how much you carried but what it could do, hence the 1B or 2B rating as an example. I personally dont think much of it as I have not mentally converted my frypans to area measurment but I did try to compute the aproximate area of the engine space so that I could look for a CO2 extinguisher or Halon of correct size. I was told by the local extinguisher shop that the old Halon extinguishers were OK until they were discharged and that they could not be refilled because the (new)Halon requires a larger canister than previously used.

Note:USCG class B1 means 1.25gals of foam, or 4lb of CO2, or 2lb of dry chem. as per Boats US 2001 catalog

Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

Ian, you should check your local regs descreatly because you may not have to clandestinly hoard those extinguishers till used

Capt. Jake; Tell us more about McDonalds and the K stuff, and wouldn't a burning flare be considered a metal fire?


Peter, I might have a dry chem but I will always have a couple of CO2 tanks around. No cleanup " in aisle 5" afterwards. Dry chem is unbelievable, you will be vacuuming and damp mopping for days after the incident.

[ion barnes]

Thanks for the imput guys, now I am waiting for Europe to call in. North of the 49th, some years ago there was a change made to rephrase the ability of an extinguisher, as not how much you carried but what it could do, hence the 1B or 2B rating as an example. I personally dont think much of it as I have not mentally converted my frypans to area measurment but I did try to compute the aproximate area of the engine space so that I could look for a CO2 extinguisher or Halon of correct size. I was told by the local extinguisher shop that the old Halon extinguishers were OK until they were discharged and that they could not be refilled because the (new)Halon requires a larger canister than previously used.

Note:USCG class B1 means 1.25gals of foam, or 4lb of CO2, or 2lb of dry chem. as per Boats US 2001 catalog

Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

Ian, you should check your local regs descreatly because you may not have to clandestinly hoard those extinguishers till used

Capt. Jake; Tell us more about McDonalds and the K stuff, and wouldn't a burning flare be considered a metal fire?


Peter, I might have a dry chem but I will always have a couple of CO2 tanks around. No cleanup " in aisle 5" afterwards. Dry chem is unbelievable, you will be vacuuming and damp mopping for days after the incident.

[ACB]

Originally posted by ionbarnes:


Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

The B class includes all flammable liquids, including gasoline, diesel, kerosene, etc., but cooking oils and fats are better dealt with by a Class F (our system) or K (your system) extinguisher.

The cream (our system) coloured extinguisher is a foam extinguisher for liquid fires - class B fires.

I am seriously amazed that NATO has not sorted this question out.

[ 12-20-2002, 07:23 AM: Message edited by: ACB ]

[ACB]

Originally posted by ionbarnes:


Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

The B class includes all flammable liquids, including gasoline, diesel, kerosene, etc., but cooking oils and fats are better dealt with by a Class F (our system) or K (your system) extinguisher.

The cream (our system) coloured extinguisher is a foam extinguisher for liquid fires - class B fires.

I am seriously amazed that NATO has not sorted this question out.

[ 12-20-2002, 07:23 AM: Message edited by: ACB ]

[ACB]

Originally posted by ionbarnes:


Question for ACB; B fires would be liquid paint, tar and ?????

The B class includes all flammable liquids, including gasoline, diesel, kerosene, etc., but cooking oils and fats are better dealt with by a Class F (our system) or K (your system) extinguisher.

The cream (our system) coloured extinguisher is a foam extinguisher for liquid fires - class B fires.

I am seriously amazed that NATO has not sorted this question out.

[ 12-20-2002, 07:23 AM: Message edited by: ACB ]

[Ian G Wright]

When I get round to buying new (not yet) I think I'll get CO2. They produce no more mess than Halon and you can use them to freeze cockroaches. (sweep them up and deep six them while they sleep). I do like dual use items,,,,,, anybody know if I can buy a fire blanket that I can sleep under?

IanW.

[ 12-20-2002, 05:31 AM: Message edited by: Ian G Wright ]

[Ian G Wright]

When I get round to buying new (not yet) I think I'll get CO2. They produce no more mess than Halon and you can use them to freeze cockroaches. (sweep them up and deep six them while they sleep). I do like dual use items,,,,,, anybody know if I can buy a fire blanket that I can sleep under?

IanW.

[ 12-20-2002, 05:31 AM: Message edited by: Ian G Wright ]

[Ian G Wright]

When I get round to buying new (not yet) I think I'll get CO2. They produce no more mess than Halon and you can use them to freeze cockroaches. (sweep them up and deep six them while they sleep). I do like dual use items,,,,,, anybody know if I can buy a fire blanket that I can sleep under?

IanW.

[ 12-20-2002, 05:31 AM: Message edited by: Ian G Wright ]

[NormMessinger]

Seems like I read that the poweder in ACB extinguisher was highly corrosive.

Off the subject a bit but I recall, years ago, one of the fire training instructors spending a fair amount of time telling us about the English fire fighters during the WWII Blitz having great success with 5 gal hand pumped water extinguishers. The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is applied.

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Seems like I read that the poweder in ACB extinguisher was highly corrosive.

Off the subject a bit but I recall, years ago, one of the fire training instructors spending a fair amount of time telling us about the English fire fighters during the WWII Blitz having great success with 5 gal hand pumped water extinguishers. The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is applied.

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Seems like I read that the poweder in ACB extinguisher was highly corrosive.

Off the subject a bit but I recall, years ago, one of the fire training instructors spending a fair amount of time telling us about the English fire fighters during the WWII Blitz having great success with 5 gal hand pumped water extinguishers. The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is applied.

--Norm

[capt jake]

The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is appliedStill hold true today. We carry 750 gallons of water on each of our engines, but rarely use more than 50 or so gallons on a typical room and contents fire.

As far as a burning flare; I suppose that sepends on the type of flare. Road flares are not a metal burning flare. Those, and smoke flares, are the only ones I have experience with.

Halon? Yeah, if you still have one they are fine, but after use you are stuck. smile.gif

Type K has been around for a while, though only put into force in about 1998. Typical deep frying with vegatable oils can reach 500-600 degrees F. The old BC powder won't touch a fire like that. The K is applied in a fine mist that reacts with teh oil. It emulsifies teh top of the oil, forming a type of 'foam' barrier, thus cooling and excluding the O2. Just don't break the blanket until things are cool. K is non corrosive and being wet, it doesn't flay all over the restaraunt.

Interestingly, UL17 is the standard for kitchen suppression systems, this is the only code that was adopted as 'retroactive'. Meaning the fire department can force an existing system to be changed to the new standard. No other code(s)can be retroactively applied. This hold true of building and fire codes.

CO2 work very well in confined spaces, as they work mostly by excluding O2. They offer some cooling effect also. One neat thing about CO2, if you ever have a Diesel that 'runs away' (meaning the govenor has broken and won't hold the rpm's down); discarge it into the air intake! since it displaces O2, then engine will stop running. Non corrosive, so no worries there either. Ever wonder why there are more CO2's in a diesel repair shop? Now you know.

Happy Holidays smile.gif

[capt jake]

The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is appliedStill hold true today. We carry 750 gallons of water on each of our engines, but rarely use more than 50 or so gallons on a typical room and contents fire.

As far as a burning flare; I suppose that sepends on the type of flare. Road flares are not a metal burning flare. Those, and smoke flares, are the only ones I have experience with.

Halon? Yeah, if you still have one they are fine, but after use you are stuck. smile.gif

Type K has been around for a while, though only put into force in about 1998. Typical deep frying with vegatable oils can reach 500-600 degrees F. The old BC powder won't touch a fire like that. The K is applied in a fine mist that reacts with teh oil. It emulsifies teh top of the oil, forming a type of 'foam' barrier, thus cooling and excluding the O2. Just don't break the blanket until things are cool. K is non corrosive and being wet, it doesn't flay all over the restaraunt.

Interestingly, UL17 is the standard for kitchen suppression systems, this is the only code that was adopted as 'retroactive'. Meaning the fire department can force an existing system to be changed to the new standard. No other code(s)can be retroactively applied. This hold true of building and fire codes.

CO2 work very well in confined spaces, as they work mostly by excluding O2. They offer some cooling effect also. One neat thing about CO2, if you ever have a Diesel that 'runs away' (meaning the govenor has broken and won't hold the rpm's down); discarge it into the air intake! since it displaces O2, then engine will stop running. Non corrosive, so no worries there either. Ever wonder why there are more CO2's in a diesel repair shop? Now you know.

Happy Holidays smile.gif

[capt jake]

The point being it aint so much how much water one dumps on the fire but how it is appliedStill hold true today. We carry 750 gallons of water on each of our engines, but rarely use more than 50 or so gallons on a typical room and contents fire.

As far as a burning flare; I suppose that sepends on the type of flare. Road flares are not a metal burning flare. Those, and smoke flares, are the only ones I have experience with.

Halon? Yeah, if you still have one they are fine, but after use you are stuck. smile.gif

Type K has been around for a while, though only put into force in about 1998. Typical deep frying with vegatable oils can reach 500-600 degrees F. The old BC powder won't touch a fire like that. The K is applied in a fine mist that reacts with teh oil. It emulsifies teh top of the oil, forming a type of 'foam' barrier, thus cooling and excluding the O2. Just don't break the blanket until things are cool. K is non corrosive and being wet, it doesn't flay all over the restaraunt.

Interestingly, UL17 is the standard for kitchen suppression systems, this is the only code that was adopted as 'retroactive'. Meaning the fire department can force an existing system to be changed to the new standard. No other code(s)can be retroactively applied. This hold true of building and fire codes.

CO2 work very well in confined spaces, as they work mostly by excluding O2. They offer some cooling effect also. One neat thing about CO2, if you ever have a Diesel that 'runs away' (meaning the govenor has broken and won't hold the rpm's down); discarge it into the air intake! since it displaces O2, then engine will stop running. Non corrosive, so no worries there either. Ever wonder why there are more CO2's in a diesel repair shop? Now you know.

Happy Holidays smile.gif

[ACB]

I once did a gas firefighting course for gas ships. Very interesting and really very simple; get to the relevant valve, using plenty of water, for cooling only, not for extinguishing, and close that valve. Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve.

This means, presumably, that fires on gas ships or presumably in shore plants can only be fought by those who understand the layout.

(If you have ruptured a cargo tank, and you are still alive, abandon ship....)

[ACB]

I once did a gas firefighting course for gas ships. Very interesting and really very simple; get to the relevant valve, using plenty of water, for cooling only, not for extinguishing, and close that valve. Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve.

This means, presumably, that fires on gas ships or presumably in shore plants can only be fought by those who understand the layout.

(If you have ruptured a cargo tank, and you are still alive, abandon ship....)

[ACB]

I once did a gas firefighting course for gas ships. Very interesting and really very simple; get to the relevant valve, using plenty of water, for cooling only, not for extinguishing, and close that valve. Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve.

This means, presumably, that fires on gas ships or presumably in shore plants can only be fought by those who understand the layout.

(If you have ruptured a cargo tank, and you are still alive, abandon ship....)

[capt jake]

Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve That is key on ANY compressed gas fire. Don't extinguish until you can secure the source. As you said "if you know where the valve is!". LOL smile.gif

[capt jake]

Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve That is key on ANY compressed gas fire. Don't extinguish until you can secure the source. As you said "if you know where the valve is!". LOL smile.gif

[capt jake]

Whatever you do, you don't put the fire out until you have closed that valve That is key on ANY compressed gas fire. Don't extinguish until you can secure the source. As you said "if you know where the valve is!". LOL smile.gif