View Full Version : Sap Bleeding through stain -- Help.
jermedia
06-25-2005, 09:18 PM
Random question on some pine I made into Adirondack chairs. I got them straight from the Mill here in NH, and when the chairs were all done and stained, the sap bled through. Little dots all over. 1)How would I treat the wood before I stain to keep this from happening, and 2) How do I now remove the sap to restain -- hopefully so it doesn't happen again??? (I was thinking something like turpentine and steel wool maybe?)
Thanks
jermedia
06-25-2005, 09:18 PM
Random question on some pine I made into Adirondack chairs. I got them straight from the Mill here in NH, and when the chairs were all done and stained, the sap bled through. Little dots all over. 1)How would I treat the wood before I stain to keep this from happening, and 2) How do I now remove the sap to restain -- hopefully so it doesn't happen again??? (I was thinking something like turpentine and steel wool maybe?)
Thanks
jermedia
06-25-2005, 09:18 PM
Random question on some pine I made into Adirondack chairs. I got them straight from the Mill here in NH, and when the chairs were all done and stained, the sap bled through. Little dots all over. 1)How would I treat the wood before I stain to keep this from happening, and 2) How do I now remove the sap to restain -- hopefully so it doesn't happen again??? (I was thinking something like turpentine and steel wool maybe?)
Thanks
Hughman
06-25-2005, 09:53 PM
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint.
Hughman
06-25-2005, 09:53 PM
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint.
Hughman
06-25-2005, 09:53 PM
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint.
Mrleft8
06-26-2005, 08:28 AM
Originally posted by Hughman:
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint....OR (seeing as how it looks like you want to finish the chairs bright....) Seal with de-waxed shellac, wait a week or so, and then top coat with varnish... Personally, I would do what Hughman says, and paint them. I think Adirondack chairs look better painted dark green and white. Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.
Mrleft8
06-26-2005, 08:28 AM
Originally posted by Hughman:
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint....OR (seeing as how it looks like you want to finish the chairs bright....) Seal with de-waxed shellac, wait a week or so, and then top coat with varnish... Personally, I would do what Hughman says, and paint them. I think Adirondack chairs look better painted dark green and white. Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.
Mrleft8
06-26-2005, 08:28 AM
Originally posted by Hughman:
use shellac based paint to seal the wood. then repaint with the usual solvent based paint....OR (seeing as how it looks like you want to finish the chairs bright....) Seal with de-waxed shellac, wait a week or so, and then top coat with varnish... Personally, I would do what Hughman says, and paint them. I think Adirondack chairs look better painted dark green and white. Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.
Hughman
06-26-2005, 10:39 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
[QB Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.[/QB]Sap pockets will continue to bleed, and even shallac won't completely stop deep ones.
But, get as much off as you can, and call the rest "character"
Hughman
06-26-2005, 10:39 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
[QB Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.[/QB]Sap pockets will continue to bleed, and even shallac won't completely stop deep ones.
But, get as much off as you can, and call the rest "character"
Hughman
06-26-2005, 10:39 AM
Originally posted by Mrleft8:
[QB Getting gooey pine sap off is a job for turpentine, or paint thinner and a bunch of rags.[/QB]Sap pockets will continue to bleed, and even shallac won't completely stop deep ones.
But, get as much off as you can, and call the rest "character"
Paul Girouard
06-26-2005, 11:20 AM
I'd agree with both Hughman and Mrleft8. The really amazing thing is how long sap will bleed out of even a small board , let alone a timber in a building tongue.gif Your chairs will be clean for a few seasons as thats about how long you'll be wiping them down with the thinner ;) Happy to be here ;) PEG
Paul Girouard
06-26-2005, 11:20 AM
I'd agree with both Hughman and Mrleft8. The really amazing thing is how long sap will bleed out of even a small board , let alone a timber in a building tongue.gif Your chairs will be clean for a few seasons as thats about how long you'll be wiping them down with the thinner ;) Happy to be here ;) PEG
Paul Girouard
06-26-2005, 11:20 AM
I'd agree with both Hughman and Mrleft8. The really amazing thing is how long sap will bleed out of even a small board , let alone a timber in a building tongue.gif Your chairs will be clean for a few seasons as thats about how long you'll be wiping them down with the thinner ;) Happy to be here ;) PEG
JimConlin
06-27-2005, 12:34 AM
Summer is too short to be spent varnishing lawn chairs. What Hugh said. Paint 'em.
JimConlin
06-27-2005, 12:34 AM
Summer is too short to be spent varnishing lawn chairs. What Hugh said. Paint 'em.
JimConlin
06-27-2005, 12:34 AM
Summer is too short to be spent varnishing lawn chairs. What Hugh said. Paint 'em.
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