"Zephyr" Needs a Diesel

[Thomas Garber]

I'm looking for a used diesel in the 18-23 hp range for my 1938 Alden Malabar Jr. Any leads on the East Coast/Great Lakes area would be appreciated.

[Thomas Garber]

I'm looking for a used diesel in the 18-23 hp range for my 1938 Alden Malabar Jr. Any leads on the East Coast/Great Lakes area would be appreciated.

[Thomas Garber]

I'm looking for a used diesel in the 18-23 hp range for my 1938 Alden Malabar Jr. Any leads on the East Coast/Great Lakes area would be appreciated.

[Ed Harrow]

Hey Tom, are you making good progress? Did you get the photos I sent? Got any pictures to share? Cheers! Ed

[Ed Harrow]

Hey Tom, are you making good progress? Did you get the photos I sent? Got any pictures to share? Cheers! Ed

[Ed Harrow]

Hey Tom, are you making good progress? Did you get the photos I sent? Got any pictures to share? Cheers! Ed

[Thad]

At http://dieselenginetrader.com there is a listing for a Volvo Penta MD11B 20HP in Ohio.

[Thad]

At http://dieselenginetrader.com there is a listing for a Volvo Penta MD11B 20HP in Ohio.

[Thad]

At http://dieselenginetrader.com there is a listing for a Volvo Penta MD11B 20HP in Ohio.

[Thomas Garber]

Ed-Thanks a million for those early pics of "Zephyr". I will use them in the documentary on her renovation. I don't have any new pics, because my 35mm camera's broken, but I have finished the interior (new ceiling, varnish, paint, new sole)and am ready to cut new floor timbers for the enginge bed.

Thad-Thanks for the link, but that Volvo in Ohio is a saildrive. I've got a line on a rebuilt Volvo-Penta 2MD, circa 1972 in Kentucky for $2500. Does this sound fair?

These pics are from last Fall, but give you an idea what I've been up to. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143852&Sequence=0&res=high This is the only deck repair I've had to do. I sistered in new oak beams, making sure to keep the same pitch. I then milled pine to match rest of the tounge and groove deck planking. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143853&Sequence=0&res=high It's amazing that the rest of the deck is solid. I am going to bed the new canvass in white lead paste, as this is the original method, and seems to have served the boat well so far. One poor legacy of "Zephyr"'s previous owner is epoxyed seams. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143850&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143851&Sequence=0&res=high You can see here how the planking has pulled away is it dried. No great suprise. Luckily not all the seams were epoxyed, so the traditionaly caulked seams have allowed some give, and not put too much stress on the frames. How to treat these cracks has been a subject of great debate. If I reeve out all existing epoxy, the gabs betweem planks are too big for any type of caulking, though I could spile in wood to narrow the gap, then treat with cotton and seam compound. I decided I must deal with the eboxy as is, and am filling gabs larger than 1/8" with Boatlife caulk, and everything smaller with Slick Seam. I realize after the wood swells, I will have bulging caulk on most seams, requiring me to haul out, sand, and repaint to achieve desired results. A longer term solution is still in the works. Realizing the 3000 or so bronze planking screws are on their last legs, a more permanent, overall solution to the hull planking will be required. The follow pic is from 1940's, one of many I have of "Zephyr" sailing in her glory days. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143854&Sequence=0&res=high

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[Thomas Garber]

Ed-Thanks a million for those early pics of "Zephyr". I will use them in the documentary on her renovation. I don't have any new pics, because my 35mm camera's broken, but I have finished the interior (new ceiling, varnish, paint, new sole)and am ready to cut new floor timbers for the enginge bed.

Thad-Thanks for the link, but that Volvo in Ohio is a saildrive. I've got a line on a rebuilt Volvo-Penta 2MD, circa 1972 in Kentucky for $2500. Does this sound fair?

These pics are from last Fall, but give you an idea what I've been up to. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143852&Sequence=0&res=high This is the only deck repair I've had to do. I sistered in new oak beams, making sure to keep the same pitch. I then milled pine to match rest of the tounge and groove deck planking. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143853&Sequence=0&res=high It's amazing that the rest of the deck is solid. I am going to bed the new canvass in white lead paste, as this is the original method, and seems to have served the boat well so far. One poor legacy of "Zephyr"'s previous owner is epoxyed seams. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143850&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143851&Sequence=0&res=high You can see here how the planking has pulled away is it dried. No great suprise. Luckily not all the seams were epoxyed, so the traditionaly caulked seams have allowed some give, and not put too much stress on the frames. How to treat these cracks has been a subject of great debate. If I reeve out all existing epoxy, the gabs betweem planks are too big for any type of caulking, though I could spile in wood to narrow the gap, then treat with cotton and seam compound. I decided I must deal with the eboxy as is, and am filling gabs larger than 1/8" with Boatlife caulk, and everything smaller with Slick Seam. I realize after the wood swells, I will have bulging caulk on most seams, requiring me to haul out, sand, and repaint to achieve desired results. A longer term solution is still in the works. Realizing the 3000 or so bronze planking screws are on their last legs, a more permanent, overall solution to the hull planking will be required. The follow pic is from 1940's, one of many I have of "Zephyr" sailing in her glory days. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143854&Sequence=0&res=high

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[Thomas Garber]

Ed-Thanks a million for those early pics of "Zephyr". I will use them in the documentary on her renovation. I don't have any new pics, because my 35mm camera's broken, but I have finished the interior (new ceiling, varnish, paint, new sole)and am ready to cut new floor timbers for the enginge bed.

Thad-Thanks for the link, but that Volvo in Ohio is a saildrive. I've got a line on a rebuilt Volvo-Penta 2MD, circa 1972 in Kentucky for $2500. Does this sound fair?

These pics are from last Fall, but give you an idea what I've been up to. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143852&Sequence=0&res=high This is the only deck repair I've had to do. I sistered in new oak beams, making sure to keep the same pitch. I then milled pine to match rest of the tounge and groove deck planking. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143853&Sequence=0&res=high It's amazing that the rest of the deck is solid. I am going to bed the new canvass in white lead paste, as this is the original method, and seems to have served the boat well so far. One poor legacy of "Zephyr"'s previous owner is epoxyed seams. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143850&Sequence=0&res=high
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143851&Sequence=0&res=high You can see here how the planking has pulled away is it dried. No great suprise. Luckily not all the seams were epoxyed, so the traditionaly caulked seams have allowed some give, and not put too much stress on the frames. How to treat these cracks has been a subject of great debate. If I reeve out all existing epoxy, the gabs betweem planks are too big for any type of caulking, though I could spile in wood to narrow the gap, then treat with cotton and seam compound. I decided I must deal with the eboxy as is, and am filling gabs larger than 1/8" with Boatlife caulk, and everything smaller with Slick Seam. I realize after the wood swells, I will have bulging caulk on most seams, requiring me to haul out, sand, and repaint to achieve desired results. A longer term solution is still in the works. Realizing the 3000 or so bronze planking screws are on their last legs, a more permanent, overall solution to the hull planking will be required. The follow pic is from 1940's, one of many I have of "Zephyr" sailing in her glory days. http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1352175&a=10069310&p=51143854&Sequence=0&res=high

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 06-30-2001).]

[Thad]

Sounds fair to me. There questions I'd ask about whether it was saltwater cooled, with possible corrosion in the block. If that is all fine the price might be right reasonable if a proper rebuild. Sea Harmony has an MB1B and I was talking to Paul Haley about Tern's MD2B the other day. I like mine, Paul his. Your Jr. looks great. Good luck. (In that ad the Ohio engine said something about having parts to make it a straight inboard. My only excuse.)

[Thad]

Sounds fair to me. There questions I'd ask about whether it was saltwater cooled, with possible corrosion in the block. If that is all fine the price might be right reasonable if a proper rebuild. Sea Harmony has an MB1B and I was talking to Paul Haley about Tern's MD2B the other day. I like mine, Paul his. Your Jr. looks great. Good luck. (In that ad the Ohio engine said something about having parts to make it a straight inboard. My only excuse.)

[Thad]

Sounds fair to me. There questions I'd ask about whether it was saltwater cooled, with possible corrosion in the block. If that is all fine the price might be right reasonable if a proper rebuild. Sea Harmony has an MB1B and I was talking to Paul Haley about Tern's MD2B the other day. I like mine, Paul his. Your Jr. looks great. Good luck. (In that ad the Ohio engine said something about having parts to make it a straight inboard. My only excuse.)

[Dale Harvey]

Why on earth would you patch in a deck like that? It would have been little more work and a few bucks in material to replace it all. Now you have weak vulnerable butt seams where none should be. This was not a good shortcut. Neither is a rebuilt engine without a warranty from a reputable firm. Old Volvo parts are real expensive. Cylinder blocks have to be properly shimmed with gaskets to provide valve to piston top clearance. I would be VERY particular about who rebuilt it and wether or not they had a factory repair manual.

[Dale Harvey]

Why on earth would you patch in a deck like that? It would have been little more work and a few bucks in material to replace it all. Now you have weak vulnerable butt seams where none should be. This was not a good shortcut. Neither is a rebuilt engine without a warranty from a reputable firm. Old Volvo parts are real expensive. Cylinder blocks have to be properly shimmed with gaskets to provide valve to piston top clearance. I would be VERY particular about who rebuilt it and wether or not they had a factory repair manual.

[Dale Harvey]

Why on earth would you patch in a deck like that? It would have been little more work and a few bucks in material to replace it all. Now you have weak vulnerable butt seams where none should be. This was not a good shortcut. Neither is a rebuilt engine without a warranty from a reputable firm. Old Volvo parts are real expensive. Cylinder blocks have to be properly shimmed with gaskets to provide valve to piston top clearance. I would be VERY particular about who rebuilt it and wether or not they had a factory repair manual.

[Thomas Garber]

Dale-You are correct. If I was a skilled "boatwright" such as yourself, I would of done the entire deck. But I was concerned about loosing the subtle slope of the deck, so I built around what was there. My work may not be pretty, or efficient, but it is strong. I danced on those planks.

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 07-01-2001).]

[Thomas Garber]

Dale-You are correct. If I was a skilled "boatwright" such as yourself, I would of done the entire deck. But I was concerned about loosing the subtle slope of the deck, so I built around what was there. My work may not be pretty, or efficient, but it is strong. I danced on those planks.

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 07-01-2001).]

[Thomas Garber]

Dale-You are correct. If I was a skilled "boatwright" such as yourself, I would of done the entire deck. But I was concerned about loosing the subtle slope of the deck, so I built around what was there. My work may not be pretty, or efficient, but it is strong. I danced on those planks.

[This message has been edited by Thomas Garber (edited 07-01-2001).]

[Ed Harrow]

Good show, Tom. I've got the ratchet clicking right; it's going to be a long time until it starts clickin' the other way. (Tho this will only make sense to a gearhead I suspect...). I've only just begun finding all the "group W" stuff that more than a few people told me I'd find. I can tell you that would that's been soaking in engine oil for 60 years doesn't tend to harbor rot, LOL.

I just keep remembering what Ratty says...

[Ed Harrow]

Good show, Tom. I've got the ratchet clicking right; it's going to be a long time until it starts clickin' the other way. (Tho this will only make sense to a gearhead I suspect...). I've only just begun finding all the "group W" stuff that more than a few people told me I'd find. I can tell you that would that's been soaking in engine oil for 60 years doesn't tend to harbor rot, LOL.

I just keep remembering what Ratty says...

[Ed Harrow]

Good show, Tom. I've got the ratchet clicking right; it's going to be a long time until it starts clickin' the other way. (Tho this will only make sense to a gearhead I suspect...). I've only just begun finding all the "group W" stuff that more than a few people told me I'd find. I can tell you that would that's been soaking in engine oil for 60 years doesn't tend to harbor rot, LOL.

I just keep remembering what Ratty says...