OB motor experts ?

[J. Dillon]

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7933/mightymiteunderside7bd.jpg

Shown above image is the underside of the Mighty Mite 2 hp motor series 800.

I have great difficulty starting this motor. No manual is currently available .

It requires direct squirt of raw gas into the cylinder. When it finally kicks off it runs for a few seconds and then dies.

If you do get it going it takes full choke to sustain it to run, then switched befores it dies, to the run position.

The controls on the face have a (L to R ) START, CHOKE, RUN, positions.

The thottle and spark advance indicate the setting for shift only.

The key I think to get this motor to start and run properly is to have the initial settings to be set correctly on the carbureator as shown in the image. The prominent screw on on the bottom of the carbureator( what appears to be the float chamber) is for ? and the screw appearing to the left and horizontaly in the image is for what? Any body have any clue as to the initial settings ?

BTW the gas oil ratio for this motor is 25 to 1

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7933/mightymiteunderside7bd.jpg

Shown above image is the underside of the Mighty Mite 2 hp motor series 800.

I have great difficulty starting this motor. No manual is currently available .

It requires direct squirt of raw gas into the cylinder. When it finally kicks off it runs for a few seconds and then dies.

If you do get it going it takes full choke to sustain it to run, then switched befores it dies, to the run position.

The controls on the face have a (L to R ) START, CHOKE, RUN, positions.

The thottle and spark advance indicate the setting for shift only.

The key I think to get this motor to start and run properly is to have the initial settings to be set correctly on the carbureator as shown in the image. The prominent screw on on the bottom of the carbureator( what appears to be the float chamber) is for ? and the screw appearing to the left and horizontaly in the image is for what? Any body have any clue as to the initial settings ?

BTW the gas oil ratio for this motor is 25 to 1

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img117.imageshack.us/img117/7933/mightymiteunderside7bd.jpg

Shown above image is the underside of the Mighty Mite 2 hp motor series 800.

I have great difficulty starting this motor. No manual is currently available .

It requires direct squirt of raw gas into the cylinder. When it finally kicks off it runs for a few seconds and then dies.

If you do get it going it takes full choke to sustain it to run, then switched befores it dies, to the run position.

The controls on the face have a (L to R ) START, CHOKE, RUN, positions.

The thottle and spark advance indicate the setting for shift only.

The key I think to get this motor to start and run properly is to have the initial settings to be set correctly on the carbureator as shown in the image. The prominent screw on on the bottom of the carbureator( what appears to be the float chamber) is for ? and the screw appearing to the left and horizontaly in the image is for what? Any body have any clue as to the initial settings ?

BTW the gas oil ratio for this motor is 25 to 1

JD

[pipefitter]

Could be a idle mixture jet clogged in the carb or the idle mixture screw if it has one. Has the motor ever sat for a long period of time?Alot of times you can tell that when the motor is running,adjusting the screws makes no changes in it's running.
I had a motor that had leaks around the worn bushings for the choke butterfly rod that let so much air in through, that it couldnt create enough vacuum to suck the fuel out of the float bowl. Any internal parts that move that are suspended by a rod that goes through the carb housing could be suspect for leaks. Seems that over time and with use they wear around these creating unnoticed leaks.

[ 07-10-2005, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

Could be a idle mixture jet clogged in the carb or the idle mixture screw if it has one. Has the motor ever sat for a long period of time?Alot of times you can tell that when the motor is running,adjusting the screws makes no changes in it's running.
I had a motor that had leaks around the worn bushings for the choke butterfly rod that let so much air in through, that it couldnt create enough vacuum to suck the fuel out of the float bowl. Any internal parts that move that are suspended by a rod that goes through the carb housing could be suspect for leaks. Seems that over time and with use they wear around these creating unnoticed leaks.

[ 07-10-2005, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[pipefitter]

Could be a idle mixture jet clogged in the carb or the idle mixture screw if it has one. Has the motor ever sat for a long period of time?Alot of times you can tell that when the motor is running,adjusting the screws makes no changes in it's running.
I had a motor that had leaks around the worn bushings for the choke butterfly rod that let so much air in through, that it couldnt create enough vacuum to suck the fuel out of the float bowl. Any internal parts that move that are suspended by a rod that goes through the carb housing could be suspect for leaks. Seems that over time and with use they wear around these creating unnoticed leaks.

[ 07-10-2005, 12:07 PM: Message edited by: pipefitter ]

[capt jake]

First off, have you pulled the sediment bowl off and inspected it? I bet the carb will need a cleaning. Usually really easy; most of the ones I have tackled in the past few months only took about 15 minutes to get clean and running.

Once you take off the bowl you will have a better idea what the 'center' screw is for. It would appear to be for float adjustment, though I have never seen an external adjustment for floats (with a few exceptions on automotive carbs).

The screw to the left (horizontally) would be for the idle mixture. Some meter air while others meter fueafuely guess on this one is that it meters fuel. I would lightly run the screw in until is seats (lightly!) then back it out about 1 1/2 turns.

I would bet the problem is in the cleanliness of the fuel system though. It doesn't take much contamination for these to be problematic.

[capt jake]

First off, have you pulled the sediment bowl off and inspected it? I bet the carb will need a cleaning. Usually really easy; most of the ones I have tackled in the past few months only took about 15 minutes to get clean and running.

Once you take off the bowl you will have a better idea what the 'center' screw is for. It would appear to be for float adjustment, though I have never seen an external adjustment for floats (with a few exceptions on automotive carbs).

The screw to the left (horizontally) would be for the idle mixture. Some meter air while others meter fueafuely guess on this one is that it meters fuel. I would lightly run the screw in until is seats (lightly!) then back it out about 1 1/2 turns.

I would bet the problem is in the cleanliness of the fuel system though. It doesn't take much contamination for these to be problematic.

[capt jake]

First off, have you pulled the sediment bowl off and inspected it? I bet the carb will need a cleaning. Usually really easy; most of the ones I have tackled in the past few months only took about 15 minutes to get clean and running.

Once you take off the bowl you will have a better idea what the 'center' screw is for. It would appear to be for float adjustment, though I have never seen an external adjustment for floats (with a few exceptions on automotive carbs).

The screw to the left (horizontally) would be for the idle mixture. Some meter air while others meter fueafuely guess on this one is that it meters fuel. I would lightly run the screw in until is seats (lightly!) then back it out about 1 1/2 turns.

I would bet the problem is in the cleanliness of the fuel system though. It doesn't take much contamination for these to be problematic.

[Canoeyawl]

My best guess is the center screw is the main jet adjustment, and it is probably clogged. Remove the screw (needle valve), check the jet for obstructions, clean it, (I use a small dia. piece of copper wire) readjust the screw (start with maybe 1-1/2, 2 turns open) and try to start again. To remove the float bowl unscrew the brass hex nut/bolt that the needle valve is screwed into, this will expose the float assembly and a better view of the main jet. Residue in here is problematic and is the most common small engine problem.

[Canoeyawl]

My best guess is the center screw is the main jet adjustment, and it is probably clogged. Remove the screw (needle valve), check the jet for obstructions, clean it, (I use a small dia. piece of copper wire) readjust the screw (start with maybe 1-1/2, 2 turns open) and try to start again. To remove the float bowl unscrew the brass hex nut/bolt that the needle valve is screwed into, this will expose the float assembly and a better view of the main jet. Residue in here is problematic and is the most common small engine problem.

[Canoeyawl]

My best guess is the center screw is the main jet adjustment, and it is probably clogged. Remove the screw (needle valve), check the jet for obstructions, clean it, (I use a small dia. piece of copper wire) readjust the screw (start with maybe 1-1/2, 2 turns open) and try to start again. To remove the float bowl unscrew the brass hex nut/bolt that the needle valve is screwed into, this will expose the float assembly and a better view of the main jet. Residue in here is problematic and is the most common small engine problem.

[J. Dillon]

Thanks for the responses.

Yes Mr. Canoeyawl. I did remove the nut where the bottom of the carbureator is and it is the float chamber. The float is in the shape of an O. What appears to be the trouble is the little valve that is supposed to admit fuel into the float chamber is stuck. When the motor is in the vertical position and the float chamber cover off, I reason that the fuel should be pouring out . It don't. So how do I free the float actuated valve ? I squirted some carbureator cleaner on it and and banged the motor lightly on the floor in the up right position but the valve doesn't open.

I must add that access to the guts of this moror is not thought out too well. In OMC motors it is simple to take the shrowd off but this baby a lot has to happen before any of the guts is available for service.

It appears that four screws is the start then the steering arm the throttle,choke combo, the shift rod the engine spark advance and god knows what is next. There seems to be no fuel filter.

PS I must add the center carb. adjustment screw does not seem to have anything to do with the float operation. It just passes through the O shaped float.The admiiting valve to the chamber is near the hinge of the float.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[J. Dillon]

Thanks for the responses.

Yes Mr. Canoeyawl. I did remove the nut where the bottom of the carbureator is and it is the float chamber. The float is in the shape of an O. What appears to be the trouble is the little valve that is supposed to admit fuel into the float chamber is stuck. When the motor is in the vertical position and the float chamber cover off, I reason that the fuel should be pouring out . It don't. So how do I free the float actuated valve ? I squirted some carbureator cleaner on it and and banged the motor lightly on the floor in the up right position but the valve doesn't open.

I must add that access to the guts of this moror is not thought out too well. In OMC motors it is simple to take the shrowd off but this baby a lot has to happen before any of the guts is available for service.

It appears that four screws is the start then the steering arm the throttle,choke combo, the shift rod the engine spark advance and god knows what is next. There seems to be no fuel filter.

PS I must add the center carb. adjustment screw does not seem to have anything to do with the float operation. It just passes through the O shaped float.The admiiting valve to the chamber is near the hinge of the float.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[J. Dillon]

Thanks for the responses.

Yes Mr. Canoeyawl. I did remove the nut where the bottom of the carbureator is and it is the float chamber. The float is in the shape of an O. What appears to be the trouble is the little valve that is supposed to admit fuel into the float chamber is stuck. When the motor is in the vertical position and the float chamber cover off, I reason that the fuel should be pouring out . It don't. So how do I free the float actuated valve ? I squirted some carbureator cleaner on it and and banged the motor lightly on the floor in the up right position but the valve doesn't open.

I must add that access to the guts of this moror is not thought out too well. In OMC motors it is simple to take the shrowd off but this baby a lot has to happen before any of the guts is available for service.

It appears that four screws is the start then the steering arm the throttle,choke combo, the shift rod the engine spark advance and god knows what is next. There seems to be no fuel filter.

PS I must add the center carb. adjustment screw does not seem to have anything to do with the float operation. It just passes through the O shaped float.The admiiting valve to the chamber is near the hinge of the float.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[Old Bingey]

I don't think you need to take the shroud off. There is a little brass pin upon which the float pivots. It is a loose fit. I don't know how it is retained on this particular carburetor but the float pin retainer is usually a little weak clip sort of like a tiny hairpin. Get the brass pin out and the float will fall down. The needle is captured in a slot in a little brass tab on top of the float. Slide it off and then pull the needle out with a pair of needle nosed pliers. They are not usually stuck too bad... might be able to get it with your fingernails. Clean the needle and the seat and the high speed jet and put it back together and it ought to run. Adjust the high speed jet first with the engine on a boat and then adjust the idle screw until it will idle. It is possible that the gas line or the fuel shut off or the gas cap vent or the little screen in the tank is stopped up and that is why it isn't getting gas to the float bowl. Somebody surplussed out a world of those little engines and a bunch of parts, too but I don't know what happened to them.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

I don't think you need to take the shroud off. There is a little brass pin upon which the float pivots. It is a loose fit. I don't know how it is retained on this particular carburetor but the float pin retainer is usually a little weak clip sort of like a tiny hairpin. Get the brass pin out and the float will fall down. The needle is captured in a slot in a little brass tab on top of the float. Slide it off and then pull the needle out with a pair of needle nosed pliers. They are not usually stuck too bad... might be able to get it with your fingernails. Clean the needle and the seat and the high speed jet and put it back together and it ought to run. Adjust the high speed jet first with the engine on a boat and then adjust the idle screw until it will idle. It is possible that the gas line or the fuel shut off or the gas cap vent or the little screen in the tank is stopped up and that is why it isn't getting gas to the float bowl. Somebody surplussed out a world of those little engines and a bunch of parts, too but I don't know what happened to them.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

I don't think you need to take the shroud off. There is a little brass pin upon which the float pivots. It is a loose fit. I don't know how it is retained on this particular carburetor but the float pin retainer is usually a little weak clip sort of like a tiny hairpin. Get the brass pin out and the float will fall down. The needle is captured in a slot in a little brass tab on top of the float. Slide it off and then pull the needle out with a pair of needle nosed pliers. They are not usually stuck too bad... might be able to get it with your fingernails. Clean the needle and the seat and the high speed jet and put it back together and it ought to run. Adjust the high speed jet first with the engine on a boat and then adjust the idle screw until it will idle. It is possible that the gas line or the fuel shut off or the gas cap vent or the little screen in the tank is stopped up and that is why it isn't getting gas to the float bowl. Somebody surplussed out a world of those little engines and a bunch of parts, too but I don't know what happened to them.

Good luck

[J. Dillon]

Well Old Bingey, am making progress. Took off the float as you suggested and the needle valve dropped out. So I guess it wasn't stuck afterall. Put all back together again and it starts, runs a bit then stops. A few pulls on the cord and it starts again runs a bit and stops. I can do this cycle again but I suspect that the fuel line is partially obstructed restricting the filling of the float chamber. A pause from the engine stopping allows fuel in once again enabling a start till the fuel in the chamber to be used up.

So maybe removing or clearing the fuel line might be the way to solve this balky engine.

BTW Old Bingey Which is the high speed jet and which is the idle speed adjustment. The one on the bottom of the float chamber is for which adjustment.

I just got it running after a few yanks of the cord and it seems to be OK now . Will check again when the engine is well cooled off.

Presently the engine is a candidate for an auxillary for my 18' sail boat. It never had an engine and I got along fine without one. I'm beginning to think it isn't worth the trouble. The wind always comes up. I still have to devise a mount for the side of the boat but that is in the works and almost done. State registration is next. Here in CT you don't need it unless the boat is over 19' engine or not but any kind of motor on any size boat has to be registered.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[J. Dillon]

Well Old Bingey, am making progress. Took off the float as you suggested and the needle valve dropped out. So I guess it wasn't stuck afterall. Put all back together again and it starts, runs a bit then stops. A few pulls on the cord and it starts again runs a bit and stops. I can do this cycle again but I suspect that the fuel line is partially obstructed restricting the filling of the float chamber. A pause from the engine stopping allows fuel in once again enabling a start till the fuel in the chamber to be used up.

So maybe removing or clearing the fuel line might be the way to solve this balky engine.

BTW Old Bingey Which is the high speed jet and which is the idle speed adjustment. The one on the bottom of the float chamber is for which adjustment.

I just got it running after a few yanks of the cord and it seems to be OK now . Will check again when the engine is well cooled off.

Presently the engine is a candidate for an auxillary for my 18' sail boat. It never had an engine and I got along fine without one. I'm beginning to think it isn't worth the trouble. The wind always comes up. I still have to devise a mount for the side of the boat but that is in the works and almost done. State registration is next. Here in CT you don't need it unless the boat is over 19' engine or not but any kind of motor on any size boat has to be registered.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[J. Dillon]

Well Old Bingey, am making progress. Took off the float as you suggested and the needle valve dropped out. So I guess it wasn't stuck afterall. Put all back together again and it starts, runs a bit then stops. A few pulls on the cord and it starts again runs a bit and stops. I can do this cycle again but I suspect that the fuel line is partially obstructed restricting the filling of the float chamber. A pause from the engine stopping allows fuel in once again enabling a start till the fuel in the chamber to be used up.

So maybe removing or clearing the fuel line might be the way to solve this balky engine.

BTW Old Bingey Which is the high speed jet and which is the idle speed adjustment. The one on the bottom of the float chamber is for which adjustment.

I just got it running after a few yanks of the cord and it seems to be OK now . Will check again when the engine is well cooled off.

Presently the engine is a candidate for an auxillary for my 18' sail boat. It never had an engine and I got along fine without one. I'm beginning to think it isn't worth the trouble. The wind always comes up. I still have to devise a mount for the side of the boat but that is in the works and almost done. State registration is next. Here in CT you don't need it unless the boat is over 19' engine or not but any kind of motor on any size boat has to be registered.

JD

[ 07-10-2005, 06:23 PM: Message edited by: J. Dillon ]

[Old Bingey]

John,

The screw at the bottom of the float bowl is the high speed (or main jet) and the little screw sticking out the side is the idle screw.

It sounds to me like that little screen wire strainer in the tank might be stopped up with varnish. After the gas has been in there for a while and softened the varnish up a little bit you might be able to blow it out through the gas hose... a nasty business. You might be able to scrub it down through the filler hole with a toothbrush or something, too.

You might be onto something about dropping the whole project. That ain't much motor in the first place. Given the fact that you don't have to register the boat without it sort of adds a pretty good impetus to chuck it to my notion. That paperwork and expense added to the aggravation of that little engine would sort of negate the joy of the whole project for me... but then again, I hate to be whipped by a piece durn machinery.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

John,

The screw at the bottom of the float bowl is the high speed (or main jet) and the little screw sticking out the side is the idle screw.

It sounds to me like that little screen wire strainer in the tank might be stopped up with varnish. After the gas has been in there for a while and softened the varnish up a little bit you might be able to blow it out through the gas hose... a nasty business. You might be able to scrub it down through the filler hole with a toothbrush or something, too.

You might be onto something about dropping the whole project. That ain't much motor in the first place. Given the fact that you don't have to register the boat without it sort of adds a pretty good impetus to chuck it to my notion. That paperwork and expense added to the aggravation of that little engine would sort of negate the joy of the whole project for me... but then again, I hate to be whipped by a piece durn machinery.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

John,

The screw at the bottom of the float bowl is the high speed (or main jet) and the little screw sticking out the side is the idle screw.

It sounds to me like that little screen wire strainer in the tank might be stopped up with varnish. After the gas has been in there for a while and softened the varnish up a little bit you might be able to blow it out through the gas hose... a nasty business. You might be able to scrub it down through the filler hole with a toothbrush or something, too.

You might be onto something about dropping the whole project. That ain't much motor in the first place. Given the fact that you don't have to register the boat without it sort of adds a pretty good impetus to chuck it to my notion. That paperwork and expense added to the aggravation of that little engine would sort of negate the joy of the whole project for me... but then again, I hate to be whipped by a piece durn machinery.

Good luck

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey ! ( theres got to be a story with a handle like that) ;)

This is the tenth year with out a D#m engine . But my crew is threatening mutiny when I say we have to paddle. We're all over 75 and the muscles give out. Your last sentence if right on though I ain't gona let a dam little engine defeat me.

Thanks for all you suggestions and help. :cool:

Victory is near. :D

JD

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey ! ( theres got to be a story with a handle like that) ;)

This is the tenth year with out a D#m engine . But my crew is threatening mutiny when I say we have to paddle. We're all over 75 and the muscles give out. Your last sentence if right on though I ain't gona let a dam little engine defeat me.

Thanks for all you suggestions and help. :cool:

Victory is near. :D

JD

[J. Dillon]

Old Bingey ! ( theres got to be a story with a handle like that) ;)

This is the tenth year with out a D#m engine . But my crew is threatening mutiny when I say we have to paddle. We're all over 75 and the muscles give out. Your last sentence if right on though I ain't gona let a dam little engine defeat me.

Thanks for all you suggestions and help. :cool:

Victory is near. :D

JD

[Old Bingey]

JD,

"victory is near?".... yeah, roight. There is no such thing as a finite victory over those things except in the eye of a gullible beholder. That engine does have a very reliable, modern ignition system and a good carburetor if that's any consolation. As for my stage name. There is a story there... an old story.

The way to clear the fuel system is just to pull the hose off the carburetor... put your lips together... and blow. I hate to do that at sea.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

JD,

"victory is near?".... yeah, roight. There is no such thing as a finite victory over those things except in the eye of a gullible beholder. That engine does have a very reliable, modern ignition system and a good carburetor if that's any consolation. As for my stage name. There is a story there... an old story.

The way to clear the fuel system is just to pull the hose off the carburetor... put your lips together... and blow. I hate to do that at sea.

Good luck

[Old Bingey]

JD,

"victory is near?".... yeah, roight. There is no such thing as a finite victory over those things except in the eye of a gullible beholder. That engine does have a very reliable, modern ignition system and a good carburetor if that's any consolation. As for my stage name. There is a story there... an old story.

The way to clear the fuel system is just to pull the hose off the carburetor... put your lips together... and blow. I hate to do that at sea.

Good luck

[Canoeyawl]

There is a jet (orifice) in the threaded hole that the bolt that holds the float bowl fits into, Shine a light into the carb and look up in there through the jet and be certain that this is clear, your should be able to see through it into the venturi of the carburetor. It is tiny but you should see light through there. The high-speed needle valve regulates this jet. If it is clogged the engine may start and then immediately die from lack of fuel. The fuel supply should be confirmed to the float bowl first of course. Put some fuel in the tank, with the engine in the operating position and the float assy. and bowl removed. Turn on the fuel valve, does fuel flow to the float chamber? You should see it running all over the place about now. LOL - If not there is a restriction in the tank/ hose/ on off valve etc.

[Canoeyawl]

There is a jet (orifice) in the threaded hole that the bolt that holds the float bowl fits into, Shine a light into the carb and look up in there through the jet and be certain that this is clear, your should be able to see through it into the venturi of the carburetor. It is tiny but you should see light through there. The high-speed needle valve regulates this jet. If it is clogged the engine may start and then immediately die from lack of fuel. The fuel supply should be confirmed to the float bowl first of course. Put some fuel in the tank, with the engine in the operating position and the float assy. and bowl removed. Turn on the fuel valve, does fuel flow to the float chamber? You should see it running all over the place about now. LOL - If not there is a restriction in the tank/ hose/ on off valve etc.

[Canoeyawl]

There is a jet (orifice) in the threaded hole that the bolt that holds the float bowl fits into, Shine a light into the carb and look up in there through the jet and be certain that this is clear, your should be able to see through it into the venturi of the carburetor. It is tiny but you should see light through there. The high-speed needle valve regulates this jet. If it is clogged the engine may start and then immediately die from lack of fuel. The fuel supply should be confirmed to the float bowl first of course. Put some fuel in the tank, with the engine in the operating position and the float assy. and bowl removed. Turn on the fuel valve, does fuel flow to the float chamber? You should see it running all over the place about now. LOL - If not there is a restriction in the tank/ hose/ on off valve etc.

[pipefitter]

Thats what was always so nice about glass sediment bowls in the line or at the bottom of the float bowl. Could always tell what kind,how much gas and about what speed it flowed in.If there was dirt/varnish in it.And there isnt much worse than the smell of a motor with stale gas in it. You can usually tell by the smell of an old engine if it is going to give you carb problems.

[pipefitter]

Thats what was always so nice about glass sediment bowls in the line or at the bottom of the float bowl. Could always tell what kind,how much gas and about what speed it flowed in.If there was dirt/varnish in it.And there isnt much worse than the smell of a motor with stale gas in it. You can usually tell by the smell of an old engine if it is going to give you carb problems.

[pipefitter]

Thats what was always so nice about glass sediment bowls in the line or at the bottom of the float bowl. Could always tell what kind,how much gas and about what speed it flowed in.If there was dirt/varnish in it.And there isnt much worse than the smell of a motor with stale gas in it. You can usually tell by the smell of an old engine if it is going to give you carb problems.

[J. Dillon]

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/646/motorfront0bp.jpg

Well thanks for the tips posted here I got the motor running smoothly once it gets started.

Having no owners manual the correct procedure for starting is hit or miss. Presently it is hard to start. In the image can be seen on the top, the throttle spark advance lever below is the initial settings for starting ( START on the left, CHOKE in the middle and on the right RUN )
Lower left is the shift rod.

Presently I have been using the choke position as a start and after a few pulls I shift to the start position. The throttle and spark advance I position in the center. It sure don't start up easily taking several pulls to get it going. Any suggestions on what sequence on positioning the settings ?

I'm thinking the start position is really full choke and choke position is really half choke and run is wide open throttle.

It is impossible to look and see as the shrowd is not easy to take off.

BTW Canoeyawl, that is one beautiful boat you have there. It reminds me of the Rozzinate, my favorite.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/646/motorfront0bp.jpg

Well thanks for the tips posted here I got the motor running smoothly once it gets started.

Having no owners manual the correct procedure for starting is hit or miss. Presently it is hard to start. In the image can be seen on the top, the throttle spark advance lever below is the initial settings for starting ( START on the left, CHOKE in the middle and on the right RUN )
Lower left is the shift rod.

Presently I have been using the choke position as a start and after a few pulls I shift to the start position. The throttle and spark advance I position in the center. It sure don't start up easily taking several pulls to get it going. Any suggestions on what sequence on positioning the settings ?

I'm thinking the start position is really full choke and choke position is really half choke and run is wide open throttle.

It is impossible to look and see as the shrowd is not easy to take off.

BTW Canoeyawl, that is one beautiful boat you have there. It reminds me of the Rozzinate, my favorite.

JD

[J. Dillon]

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/646/motorfront0bp.jpg

Well thanks for the tips posted here I got the motor running smoothly once it gets started.

Having no owners manual the correct procedure for starting is hit or miss. Presently it is hard to start. In the image can be seen on the top, the throttle spark advance lever below is the initial settings for starting ( START on the left, CHOKE in the middle and on the right RUN )
Lower left is the shift rod.

Presently I have been using the choke position as a start and after a few pulls I shift to the start position. The throttle and spark advance I position in the center. It sure don't start up easily taking several pulls to get it going. Any suggestions on what sequence on positioning the settings ?

I'm thinking the start position is really full choke and choke position is really half choke and run is wide open throttle.

It is impossible to look and see as the shrowd is not easy to take off.

BTW Canoeyawl, that is one beautiful boat you have there. It reminds me of the Rozzinate, my favorite.

JD

[hikingchrs]

My chain saw is started by pulling it over in start untill it sputers 1 or 2 pull normally, then seting it to choke 1 pull then usually starts and the seting it to run.
Chris

[hikingchrs]

My chain saw is started by pulling it over in start untill it sputers 1 or 2 pull normally, then seting it to choke 1 pull then usually starts and the seting it to run.
Chris

[hikingchrs]

My chain saw is started by pulling it over in start untill it sputers 1 or 2 pull normally, then seting it to choke 1 pull then usually starts and the seting it to run.
Chris

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Crap gets into everything on small outboards. A winter project of taking the carb apart washing all the parts in solvent and cleaning all the fuel lines and petcocks etc, would be time well spent. I'm a powerboater. I don't like engines that don't run reliably and well. tongue.gif

In saying that, I have four vintage outboards in the shop waiting for varying degrees of the same TLC I am advising. ;) :rolleyes: :D

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Crap gets into everything on small outboards. A winter project of taking the carb apart washing all the parts in solvent and cleaning all the fuel lines and petcocks etc, would be time well spent. I'm a powerboater. I don't like engines that don't run reliably and well. tongue.gif

In saying that, I have four vintage outboards in the shop waiting for varying degrees of the same TLC I am advising. ;) :rolleyes: :D

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Crap gets into everything on small outboards. A winter project of taking the carb apart washing all the parts in solvent and cleaning all the fuel lines and petcocks etc, would be time well spent. I'm a powerboater. I don't like engines that don't run reliably and well. tongue.gif

In saying that, I have four vintage outboards in the shop waiting for varying degrees of the same TLC I am advising. ;) :rolleyes: :D

[Canoeyawl]

JD, A few observations about old outboards; It probably has a set of points that haven’t seen daylight in quite a while – LOL. This is a likely culprit for your starting problems. Of course getting to them is another story. The ignition system is a basic magneto and the faster it spins the more voltage it makes. This makes me think that by spinning it pretty fast you are overcoming the resistance of the old points. These can probably be cleaned up and made serviceable with a point file. They are under the flywheel, which is usually on a taper fit to the crankshaft and will require some tenacity to remove. This must be done carefully because you can damage the flywheel or the crankshaft or both. Generally a special puller is required. Some engines have a flywheel cover disguised as a pull starter that will let you access the points without removing the flywheel. Go cautiously here….

[Canoeyawl]

JD, A few observations about old outboards; It probably has a set of points that haven’t seen daylight in quite a while – LOL. This is a likely culprit for your starting problems. Of course getting to them is another story. The ignition system is a basic magneto and the faster it spins the more voltage it makes. This makes me think that by spinning it pretty fast you are overcoming the resistance of the old points. These can probably be cleaned up and made serviceable with a point file. They are under the flywheel, which is usually on a taper fit to the crankshaft and will require some tenacity to remove. This must be done carefully because you can damage the flywheel or the crankshaft or both. Generally a special puller is required. Some engines have a flywheel cover disguised as a pull starter that will let you access the points without removing the flywheel. Go cautiously here….

[Canoeyawl]

JD, A few observations about old outboards; It probably has a set of points that haven’t seen daylight in quite a while – LOL. This is a likely culprit for your starting problems. Of course getting to them is another story. The ignition system is a basic magneto and the faster it spins the more voltage it makes. This makes me think that by spinning it pretty fast you are overcoming the resistance of the old points. These can probably be cleaned up and made serviceable with a point file. They are under the flywheel, which is usually on a taper fit to the crankshaft and will require some tenacity to remove. This must be done carefully because you can damage the flywheel or the crankshaft or both. Generally a special puller is required. Some engines have a flywheel cover disguised as a pull starter that will let you access the points without removing the flywheel. Go cautiously here….

[J. Dillon]

With the info provided by fellow Forumites and a little guess work I got the enging purring like a kitten. She starts on the second pull. Thanks all. :D

Canoeyawl, Tell us about your boat....please ;)

JD

[J. Dillon]

With the info provided by fellow Forumites and a little guess work I got the enging purring like a kitten. She starts on the second pull. Thanks all. :D

Canoeyawl, Tell us about your boat....please ;)

JD

[J. Dillon]

With the info provided by fellow Forumites and a little guess work I got the enging purring like a kitten. She starts on the second pull. Thanks all. :D

Canoeyawl, Tell us about your boat....please ;)

JD