dust collection

[Hughman]

There was a thread on this not long ago,..but I can't find it.

I'm using shopvacs for suckage, and want to plumb the shop with 2" hose. Apparently, this is not standard....

The box store had a sale on 5hp Ridgid vacs for $24.00. I bought 2!

The accessories are more money than the machine!

[Hughman]

There was a thread on this not long ago,..but I can't find it.

I'm using shopvacs for suckage, and want to plumb the shop with 2" hose. Apparently, this is not standard....

The box store had a sale on 5hp Ridgid vacs for $24.00. I bought 2!

The accessories are more money than the machine!

[Hughman]

There was a thread on this not long ago,..but I can't find it.

I'm using shopvacs for suckage, and want to plumb the shop with 2" hose. Apparently, this is not standard....

The box store had a sale on 5hp Ridgid vacs for $24.00. I bought 2!

The accessories are more money than the machine!

[Kim Whitmyre]

Sure it's not 2 1/4"? Lee Valley has 2 1/4" stuff they say is for shopvacs.

[Kim Whitmyre]

Sure it's not 2 1/4"? Lee Valley has 2 1/4" stuff they say is for shopvacs.

[Kim Whitmyre]

Sure it's not 2 1/4"? Lee Valley has 2 1/4" stuff they say is for shopvacs.

[StevenBauer]

Hugh, Lee Valley has just what you are looking for.

"This 2" diameter pipe network is excellent value.

The kit contains enough parts to develop a collection system that will support connection of up to five machines or areas with one central dust collector.

It comes with nine pipe sections (27' in total, 2" O.D., 1-7/8" I.D.):

* Five pipe couplings
* Four TY connectors
* Five blast gates
* Two 90° elbows
* Two 45° elbows
* Twelve mounting brackets
* One vacuum connector
* Mounting hardware

The clear polypropylene components assemble with a snug friction fit. Blockages can be spotted quickly and cleared easily at any point in the system. Instructions included.

Can be used with a shop vacuum (minimum 100 cfm rating and a 2-1/2" diameter hose inlet) or a central vacuum system. All parts are available separately.

Sets sold include the blast gate with a TY connector, and the brackets with mounting hardware.

Made in Canada.


Dust Collection Network
03J07.01 $66.00 "

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701g2.jpg

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701d1.jpg

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Hugh, Lee Valley has just what you are looking for.

"This 2" diameter pipe network is excellent value.

The kit contains enough parts to develop a collection system that will support connection of up to five machines or areas with one central dust collector.

It comes with nine pipe sections (27' in total, 2" O.D., 1-7/8" I.D.):

* Five pipe couplings
* Four TY connectors
* Five blast gates
* Two 90° elbows
* Two 45° elbows
* Twelve mounting brackets
* One vacuum connector
* Mounting hardware

The clear polypropylene components assemble with a snug friction fit. Blockages can be spotted quickly and cleared easily at any point in the system. Instructions included.

Can be used with a shop vacuum (minimum 100 cfm rating and a 2-1/2" diameter hose inlet) or a central vacuum system. All parts are available separately.

Sets sold include the blast gate with a TY connector, and the brackets with mounting hardware.

Made in Canada.


Dust Collection Network
03J07.01 $66.00 "

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701g2.jpg

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701d1.jpg

Steven

[StevenBauer]

Hugh, Lee Valley has just what you are looking for.

"This 2" diameter pipe network is excellent value.

The kit contains enough parts to develop a collection system that will support connection of up to five machines or areas with one central dust collector.

It comes with nine pipe sections (27' in total, 2" O.D., 1-7/8" I.D.):

* Five pipe couplings
* Four TY connectors
* Five blast gates
* Two 90° elbows
* Two 45° elbows
* Twelve mounting brackets
* One vacuum connector
* Mounting hardware

The clear polypropylene components assemble with a snug friction fit. Blockages can be spotted quickly and cleared easily at any point in the system. Instructions included.

Can be used with a shop vacuum (minimum 100 cfm rating and a 2-1/2" diameter hose inlet) or a central vacuum system. All parts are available separately.

Sets sold include the blast gate with a TY connector, and the brackets with mounting hardware.

Made in Canada.


Dust Collection Network
03J07.01 $66.00 "

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701g2.jpg

http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/03j0701d1.jpg

Steven

[Ron Williamson]

Could I suggest that you set it up so that it's two stage,possibly using one of LVs cyclone garbage can lids? Or at least put a prefilter over the cartridge.Landscape filter cloth works well or maybe an old pillow case,held on with zip ties or a large hose clamp.
Shopvacs pleated filters get clogged with fines(especially wet stuff) in seconds and don't self clean.This means that suction will rapidly diminish and your vacuum will die before its time.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Could I suggest that you set it up so that it's two stage,possibly using one of LVs cyclone garbage can lids? Or at least put a prefilter over the cartridge.Landscape filter cloth works well or maybe an old pillow case,held on with zip ties or a large hose clamp.
Shopvacs pleated filters get clogged with fines(especially wet stuff) in seconds and don't self clean.This means that suction will rapidly diminish and your vacuum will die before its time.
R

[Ron Williamson]

Could I suggest that you set it up so that it's two stage,possibly using one of LVs cyclone garbage can lids? Or at least put a prefilter over the cartridge.Landscape filter cloth works well or maybe an old pillow case,held on with zip ties or a large hose clamp.
Shopvacs pleated filters get clogged with fines(especially wet stuff) in seconds and don't self clean.This means that suction will rapidly diminish and your vacuum will die before its time.
R

[Hughman]

:cool: thanks! smile.gif :cool:

Steven, You have been spending
"Quality Time ©" with your Lee Valley catalog! ;) I believe you've memorized it! smile.gif
Just what I was looking for. smile.gif

Ron, that idea is ACES!
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/05j3001s3.jpg

I want to put the vacuum unit overhead, and this will allow chip removal to be convienient.

[Hughman]

:cool: thanks! smile.gif :cool:

Steven, You have been spending
"Quality Time ©" with your Lee Valley catalog! ;) I believe you've memorized it! smile.gif
Just what I was looking for. smile.gif

Ron, that idea is ACES!
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/05j3001s3.jpg

I want to put the vacuum unit overhead, and this will allow chip removal to be convienient.

[Hughman]

:cool: thanks! smile.gif :cool:

Steven, You have been spending
"Quality Time ©" with your Lee Valley catalog! ;) I believe you've memorized it! smile.gif
Just what I was looking for. smile.gif

Ron, that idea is ACES!
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/powertool/05j3001s3.jpg

I want to put the vacuum unit overhead, and this will allow chip removal to be convienient.

[coelacanth]

I like a shopvac for close to the machine suckage, but they may clog on large volumes of chips or shavings. I don't know if they can pull enough air to run long ducts, as you are showing.. they are great, though , hooked up to the dust 'chute on a radial arm or miter saw-almost no shavings escape.

[coelacanth]

I like a shopvac for close to the machine suckage, but they may clog on large volumes of chips or shavings. I don't know if they can pull enough air to run long ducts, as you are showing.. they are great, though , hooked up to the dust 'chute on a radial arm or miter saw-almost no shavings escape.

[coelacanth]

I like a shopvac for close to the machine suckage, but they may clog on large volumes of chips or shavings. I don't know if they can pull enough air to run long ducts, as you are showing.. they are great, though , hooked up to the dust 'chute on a radial arm or miter saw-almost no shavings escape.

[Bruce Hooke]

Before investing a bunch of money in some sort of a centralized system I would highly recommend getting your hands on a copy of Woodshop Dust Control. It will walk you through the calculations necessary to design a central dust collection system that will really work...

However, given the complications of a central system, a couple of shop vacs that you can plug into whichever tools you are using is a good way to go. In my shop, the tablesaw and bandsaw are the real problem tools. The thickness planer produces a lot of shavings, but the shavings tend to be fairly course and so easy to clean up. Sanding, of course, is always a problem, but it tends to be a mobile problem...

[Bruce Hooke]

Before investing a bunch of money in some sort of a centralized system I would highly recommend getting your hands on a copy of Woodshop Dust Control. It will walk you through the calculations necessary to design a central dust collection system that will really work...

However, given the complications of a central system, a couple of shop vacs that you can plug into whichever tools you are using is a good way to go. In my shop, the tablesaw and bandsaw are the real problem tools. The thickness planer produces a lot of shavings, but the shavings tend to be fairly course and so easy to clean up. Sanding, of course, is always a problem, but it tends to be a mobile problem...

[Bruce Hooke]

Before investing a bunch of money in some sort of a centralized system I would highly recommend getting your hands on a copy of Woodshop Dust Control. It will walk you through the calculations necessary to design a central dust collection system that will really work...

However, given the complications of a central system, a couple of shop vacs that you can plug into whichever tools you are using is a good way to go. In my shop, the tablesaw and bandsaw are the real problem tools. The thickness planer produces a lot of shavings, but the shavings tend to be fairly course and so easy to clean up. Sanding, of course, is always a problem, but it tends to be a mobile problem...

[Hughman]

Bruce, I did exactly that: I've ordered a can lid (above), and a magnetic dust chute that I can move around to different machines.

The worst offender is the radial arm saw. I can plumb that up directly.

The table saw politely drops its produce into a drawer for disposal. I havn't figured out what to do with the shapers and routers, yet.

[Hughman]

Bruce, I did exactly that: I've ordered a can lid (above), and a magnetic dust chute that I can move around to different machines.

The worst offender is the radial arm saw. I can plumb that up directly.

The table saw politely drops its produce into a drawer for disposal. I havn't figured out what to do with the shapers and routers, yet.

[Hughman]

Bruce, I did exactly that: I've ordered a can lid (above), and a magnetic dust chute that I can move around to different machines.

The worst offender is the radial arm saw. I can plumb that up directly.

The table saw politely drops its produce into a drawer for disposal. I havn't figured out what to do with the shapers and routers, yet.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, routers can kick up a hell of a lot of fine sawdust and while I've never used one, I bet shapers are even worse, at least as far as volume goes. For table mounted routers I've thought about building a box around the router with a plug in for a vacuum connection, but, of course, it would need to be easy to open the box to change router bits.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, routers can kick up a hell of a lot of fine sawdust and while I've never used one, I bet shapers are even worse, at least as far as volume goes. For table mounted routers I've thought about building a box around the router with a plug in for a vacuum connection, but, of course, it would need to be easy to open the box to change router bits.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, routers can kick up a hell of a lot of fine sawdust and while I've never used one, I bet shapers are even worse, at least as far as volume goes. For table mounted routers I've thought about building a box around the router with a plug in for a vacuum connection, but, of course, it would need to be easy to open the box to change router bits.

[Ron Williamson]

The turbine effect of a shaper cutter moving through the air should be considered when designing a pickup for the shaper.
Unless you reverse it often,a pickup should be designed so that it is off-center,like a turbo charger or squirrel cage fan,this way the particles get tossed right into the chute,instead of having to be pulled there by vacuum.
This is less effective with smaller diameter cutters,but should still be cosidered for a router table.
R

[ 11-29-2005, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

The turbine effect of a shaper cutter moving through the air should be considered when designing a pickup for the shaper.
Unless you reverse it often,a pickup should be designed so that it is off-center,like a turbo charger or squirrel cage fan,this way the particles get tossed right into the chute,instead of having to be pulled there by vacuum.
This is less effective with smaller diameter cutters,but should still be cosidered for a router table.
R

[ 11-29-2005, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Ron Williamson]

The turbine effect of a shaper cutter moving through the air should be considered when designing a pickup for the shaper.
Unless you reverse it often,a pickup should be designed so that it is off-center,like a turbo charger or squirrel cage fan,this way the particles get tossed right into the chute,instead of having to be pulled there by vacuum.
This is less effective with smaller diameter cutters,but should still be cosidered for a router table.
R

[ 11-29-2005, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: Ron Williamson ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Prior to my boating days, when I had money for other things ;) , I sprung for the Oneida 1 1/2 hp cyclone:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/Oneida01.jpg

The run directly into the cyclone is 6", with the rest of the rigid pipe being 5". Similar sized flexhose connects to the various machines. I do have one 4" adapter that I used for the jointer, portable planer, and for vacuuming up the shop.

What works good for the miter saw is a "window well" for basement windows, or, as in my case, a piece of sheet metal, with a simple top on it; the hose runs to a fitting under the miter saw. I put an elbow on the miter saw in place of the dust collection bag, this blows the dust into the aforementioned well. This shot is actually before I set up the miter saw well. I'm two hard disks away from when I took a lot of pictures, so they are scattered on a bunch of cdroms presently.

Found it:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/MitersawDC01.jpg

If only it was as clean as it is in this shot. . .

[ 12-02-2005, 12:20 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Prior to my boating days, when I had money for other things ;) , I sprung for the Oneida 1 1/2 hp cyclone:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/Oneida01.jpg

The run directly into the cyclone is 6", with the rest of the rigid pipe being 5". Similar sized flexhose connects to the various machines. I do have one 4" adapter that I used for the jointer, portable planer, and for vacuuming up the shop.

What works good for the miter saw is a "window well" for basement windows, or, as in my case, a piece of sheet metal, with a simple top on it; the hose runs to a fitting under the miter saw. I put an elbow on the miter saw in place of the dust collection bag, this blows the dust into the aforementioned well. This shot is actually before I set up the miter saw well. I'm two hard disks away from when I took a lot of pictures, so they are scattered on a bunch of cdroms presently.

Found it:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/MitersawDC01.jpg

If only it was as clean as it is in this shot. . .

[ 12-02-2005, 12:20 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Prior to my boating days, when I had money for other things ;) , I sprung for the Oneida 1 1/2 hp cyclone:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/Oneida01.jpg

The run directly into the cyclone is 6", with the rest of the rigid pipe being 5". Similar sized flexhose connects to the various machines. I do have one 4" adapter that I used for the jointer, portable planer, and for vacuuming up the shop.

What works good for the miter saw is a "window well" for basement windows, or, as in my case, a piece of sheet metal, with a simple top on it; the hose runs to a fitting under the miter saw. I put an elbow on the miter saw in place of the dust collection bag, this blows the dust into the aforementioned well. This shot is actually before I set up the miter saw well. I'm two hard disks away from when I took a lot of pictures, so they are scattered on a bunch of cdroms presently.

Found it:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/kwhitmyre/images/MitersawDC01.jpg

If only it was as clean as it is in this shot. . .

[ 12-02-2005, 12:20 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Tom Robb]

Grizzly recently came out with a neat little unit with some nice features for $695.
In my awkward/small shop space, I'm having some difficulty figuring out where I might put a dust collector :rolleyes:

[Tom Robb]

Grizzly recently came out with a neat little unit with some nice features for $695.
In my awkward/small shop space, I'm having some difficulty figuring out where I might put a dust collector :rolleyes:

[Tom Robb]

Grizzly recently came out with a neat little unit with some nice features for $695.
In my awkward/small shop space, I'm having some difficulty figuring out where I might put a dust collector :rolleyes:

[emichaels]

What are you hooking this dust collection up to ? 2" diameter hose will not really move very much air at all, think about the pi r squared factor here. If you are going to collect wide boards planed or a shaper there is no way 2" will pump enough air to collect. Go with a 4" tube and get a simple single stage collector like a jet for about 300 bucks. You will be happy you did. Don't forget to put a ground wire in it. Many people say ah...don't bother it won't catch on fire. I know two shops that burned to the ground, one in Seattle in 1990 and one in Cincinnati sometime around 1995 because there was not a ground running in the tubes. It does happen and it depends on the types of wood you are working. Very dry wood, like cedar, can easily ignite with static sparks.

Eric

[emichaels]

What are you hooking this dust collection up to ? 2" diameter hose will not really move very much air at all, think about the pi r squared factor here. If you are going to collect wide boards planed or a shaper there is no way 2" will pump enough air to collect. Go with a 4" tube and get a simple single stage collector like a jet for about 300 bucks. You will be happy you did. Don't forget to put a ground wire in it. Many people say ah...don't bother it won't catch on fire. I know two shops that burned to the ground, one in Seattle in 1990 and one in Cincinnati sometime around 1995 because there was not a ground running in the tubes. It does happen and it depends on the types of wood you are working. Very dry wood, like cedar, can easily ignite with static sparks.

Eric

[emichaels]

What are you hooking this dust collection up to ? 2" diameter hose will not really move very much air at all, think about the pi r squared factor here. If you are going to collect wide boards planed or a shaper there is no way 2" will pump enough air to collect. Go with a 4" tube and get a simple single stage collector like a jet for about 300 bucks. You will be happy you did. Don't forget to put a ground wire in it. Many people say ah...don't bother it won't catch on fire. I know two shops that burned to the ground, one in Seattle in 1990 and one in Cincinnati sometime around 1995 because there was not a ground running in the tubes. It does happen and it depends on the types of wood you are working. Very dry wood, like cedar, can easily ignite with static sparks.

Eric

[Shortman]

What emichaels said. use at least 4" and for about the price of a decent vac you can get one of the little Delta (or whoever) dust collectors w/a 4" line. Quieter (at least the DElta is) too. If you are using plastic, what emichaels said, ground it.

[Shortman]

What emichaels said. use at least 4" and for about the price of a decent vac you can get one of the little Delta (or whoever) dust collectors w/a 4" line. Quieter (at least the DElta is) too. If you are using plastic, what emichaels said, ground it.

[Shortman]

What emichaels said. use at least 4" and for about the price of a decent vac you can get one of the little Delta (or whoever) dust collectors w/a 4" line. Quieter (at least the DElta is) too. If you are using plastic, what emichaels said, ground it.

[Dave Hadfield]

I don't know what your shop set up is like, but for what it's worth, I have a workbench set up as an outfeed table beyond my table saw. Under this work surface I built a large (6 x 3 x 2)lightweight box, sided with 1/4" underlayment. At the far end of the box I have a powerful extracting fan. All my power tools plug in to the box. Thus the box acts like a larger version of your garbage-can-cyclone.

This works quite well. There's an economy of scale here. My box has several subdivisions within it, and each of these interior walls has a large hole to allow the air to pass through. The holes are staggered. Each chamber collects shavings and dust. It's like having several garbage-cans connected in series.

The lid of the box is loose, and when the fan is on the top is drawn hard against the box frame for a tight seal. And there are lots of valves for the tools, and these valves are simple holes for the hose with a flap of inner-tube rubber that flops down when the hole is not in use.

For dumping, the box slides out from under the worktable sideways, and drops onto a simple 2x4 "trailer" that has 2 small wheels on it, so I can roll it out to my garden or wherever. When not in use, the trailer comes apart and stores under the box.

This system is cheap, simple, powerful, and keeps the heated air within my shop. I rarely use the dust bag -- most of it ends up staying in the box.

[Dave Hadfield]

I don't know what your shop set up is like, but for what it's worth, I have a workbench set up as an outfeed table beyond my table saw. Under this work surface I built a large (6 x 3 x 2)lightweight box, sided with 1/4" underlayment. At the far end of the box I have a powerful extracting fan. All my power tools plug in to the box. Thus the box acts like a larger version of your garbage-can-cyclone.

This works quite well. There's an economy of scale here. My box has several subdivisions within it, and each of these interior walls has a large hole to allow the air to pass through. The holes are staggered. Each chamber collects shavings and dust. It's like having several garbage-cans connected in series.

The lid of the box is loose, and when the fan is on the top is drawn hard against the box frame for a tight seal. And there are lots of valves for the tools, and these valves are simple holes for the hose with a flap of inner-tube rubber that flops down when the hole is not in use.

For dumping, the box slides out from under the worktable sideways, and drops onto a simple 2x4 "trailer" that has 2 small wheels on it, so I can roll it out to my garden or wherever. When not in use, the trailer comes apart and stores under the box.

This system is cheap, simple, powerful, and keeps the heated air within my shop. I rarely use the dust bag -- most of it ends up staying in the box.

[Dave Hadfield]

I don't know what your shop set up is like, but for what it's worth, I have a workbench set up as an outfeed table beyond my table saw. Under this work surface I built a large (6 x 3 x 2)lightweight box, sided with 1/4" underlayment. At the far end of the box I have a powerful extracting fan. All my power tools plug in to the box. Thus the box acts like a larger version of your garbage-can-cyclone.

This works quite well. There's an economy of scale here. My box has several subdivisions within it, and each of these interior walls has a large hole to allow the air to pass through. The holes are staggered. Each chamber collects shavings and dust. It's like having several garbage-cans connected in series.

The lid of the box is loose, and when the fan is on the top is drawn hard against the box frame for a tight seal. And there are lots of valves for the tools, and these valves are simple holes for the hose with a flap of inner-tube rubber that flops down when the hole is not in use.

For dumping, the box slides out from under the worktable sideways, and drops onto a simple 2x4 "trailer" that has 2 small wheels on it, so I can roll it out to my garden or wherever. When not in use, the trailer comes apart and stores under the box.

This system is cheap, simple, powerful, and keeps the heated air within my shop. I rarely use the dust bag -- most of it ends up staying in the box.

[Tom Robb]

Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one? There are several low buck models out there. It'd be nice to know what's real and what's advert-fantasy.
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes:

[Tom Robb]

Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one? There are several low buck models out there. It'd be nice to know what's real and what's advert-fantasy.
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes:

[Tom Robb]

Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one? There are several low buck models out there. It'd be nice to know what's real and what's advert-fantasy.
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes:

[Kim Whitmyre]

Originally posted by Tom Robb:
Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one?
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes: By the time I finished the piping, Danish stuff bought from Grizzly, It was more like 1500 clams. The Danish pipe uses foam-faced clamps to go together: no screws or tape or caulk. The Oneida (pictured above) works like a champ. I've got 4 gated collection points. I can now work with the doors closed in my two-car garage shop, without a dust mask, for practically all operations. Prior to the Oneida installation, all the tools had to be wheeled outside or I would be buried alive. The amount of dust created making raised panels on the router table is awesome, and the planer could bury the bench.

I empty the large drum on average every 3 months, although it's dependent on the kind of jobs I'm doing. I use the jointer's 4" flex hose with a 2 1/2" shop vac hose and attachments to vacuum the shop periodically, as I still don't have an overhead collector for the stuff that gets thrown off the top of the table saw blade, and handheld routing waste. I can hook up my PC plunge router to the DC system, if I'm not too lazy to do so.

The filter is cleaned by simply tapping it on the concrete while rotating, with perhaps a little brushing.

The Oneida folks recommend, as in my installation, that at least the last run directly to the cyclone be 6" pipe. This amount of pipe cross-section moves enough air to really suck. All 6" would be the best, but 5" for the rest of the system works well.

All in all, I'm really happy to have it.

[ 12-11-2005, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Originally posted by Tom Robb:
Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one?
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes: By the time I finished the piping, Danish stuff bought from Grizzly, It was more like 1500 clams. The Danish pipe uses foam-faced clamps to go together: no screws or tape or caulk. The Oneida (pictured above) works like a champ. I've got 4 gated collection points. I can now work with the doors closed in my two-car garage shop, without a dust mask, for practically all operations. Prior to the Oneida installation, all the tools had to be wheeled outside or I would be buried alive. The amount of dust created making raised panels on the router table is awesome, and the planer could bury the bench.

I empty the large drum on average every 3 months, although it's dependent on the kind of jobs I'm doing. I use the jointer's 4" flex hose with a 2 1/2" shop vac hose and attachments to vacuum the shop periodically, as I still don't have an overhead collector for the stuff that gets thrown off the top of the table saw blade, and handheld routing waste. I can hook up my PC plunge router to the DC system, if I'm not too lazy to do so.

The filter is cleaned by simply tapping it on the concrete while rotating, with perhaps a little brushing.

The Oneida folks recommend, as in my installation, that at least the last run directly to the cyclone be 6" pipe. This amount of pipe cross-section moves enough air to really suck. All 6" would be the best, but 5" for the rest of the system works well.

All in all, I'm really happy to have it.

[ 12-11-2005, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Originally posted by Tom Robb:
Re Grizzly cyclone:
I saw the ad & their web site. The price looks to be the same as Onieda's. Onieda & Grizzly look like they're in a battle of claims and counter claims.
Does anyone here have first hand experience with either one?
Then again I often think that I could sweep up a lot of sawdust for 6 or 8 hundred dollars. :rolleyes: By the time I finished the piping, Danish stuff bought from Grizzly, It was more like 1500 clams. The Danish pipe uses foam-faced clamps to go together: no screws or tape or caulk. The Oneida (pictured above) works like a champ. I've got 4 gated collection points. I can now work with the doors closed in my two-car garage shop, without a dust mask, for practically all operations. Prior to the Oneida installation, all the tools had to be wheeled outside or I would be buried alive. The amount of dust created making raised panels on the router table is awesome, and the planer could bury the bench.

I empty the large drum on average every 3 months, although it's dependent on the kind of jobs I'm doing. I use the jointer's 4" flex hose with a 2 1/2" shop vac hose and attachments to vacuum the shop periodically, as I still don't have an overhead collector for the stuff that gets thrown off the top of the table saw blade, and handheld routing waste. I can hook up my PC plunge router to the DC system, if I'm not too lazy to do so.

The filter is cleaned by simply tapping it on the concrete while rotating, with perhaps a little brushing.

The Oneida folks recommend, as in my installation, that at least the last run directly to the cyclone be 6" pipe. This amount of pipe cross-section moves enough air to really suck. All 6" would be the best, but 5" for the rest of the system works well.

All in all, I'm really happy to have it.

[ 12-11-2005, 06:41 PM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Tom Robb]

Kim,
Was the hi-bucks boutique pipe necessary? (it comes from Denmark? Nice if you can afford it) Wouldn't stock furnace pipe from your local big-box store work?
There's a commercial high end kayak builder in Port Townsend, WA that uses all sched-40 plastic pipe w/ no problems, as does The Center for Wooden Boats in Seattle. The explosion potential w/ the plastic pipe seems to be something of an urban legend. How is one to know....

[Tom Robb]

Kim,
Was the hi-bucks boutique pipe necessary? (it comes from Denmark? Nice if you can afford it) Wouldn't stock furnace pipe from your local big-box store work?
There's a commercial high end kayak builder in Port Townsend, WA that uses all sched-40 plastic pipe w/ no problems, as does The Center for Wooden Boats in Seattle. The explosion potential w/ the plastic pipe seems to be something of an urban legend. How is one to know....

[Tom Robb]

Kim,
Was the hi-bucks boutique pipe necessary? (it comes from Denmark? Nice if you can afford it) Wouldn't stock furnace pipe from your local big-box store work?
There's a commercial high end kayak builder in Port Townsend, WA that uses all sched-40 plastic pipe w/ no problems, as does The Center for Wooden Boats in Seattle. The explosion potential w/ the plastic pipe seems to be something of an urban legend. How is one to know....

[Kim Whitmyre]

Tom,
It isn't necessary, but I was flush at the time and the ability to reconfigure the pipe without having to pull caulking/tape/screws won me over. It has the added benefit of being completely smooth inside.

As far as the furnace pipe goes, if it can withstand the suction of what ever unit you go with, it'll work. If not, it will collapse.

I, too, have read about the plastic pipe explosion hazard, but I have no first-hand experience with it. I would tend to err on the side of safety, and run the grounding wire. Which was another reason I went with the metal pipe.

[Kim Whitmyre]

Tom,
It isn't necessary, but I was flush at the time and the ability to reconfigure the pipe without having to pull caulking/tape/screws won me over. It has the added benefit of being completely smooth inside.

As far as the furnace pipe goes, if it can withstand the suction of what ever unit you go with, it'll work. If not, it will collapse.

I, too, have read about the plastic pipe explosion hazard, but I have no first-hand experience with it. I would tend to err on the side of safety, and run the grounding wire. Which was another reason I went with the metal pipe.

[Kim Whitmyre]

Tom,
It isn't necessary, but I was flush at the time and the ability to reconfigure the pipe without having to pull caulking/tape/screws won me over. It has the added benefit of being completely smooth inside.

As far as the furnace pipe goes, if it can withstand the suction of what ever unit you go with, it'll work. If not, it will collapse.

I, too, have read about the plastic pipe explosion hazard, but I have no first-hand experience with it. I would tend to err on the side of safety, and run the grounding wire. Which was another reason I went with the metal pipe.

[Hughman]

Thanks for an interesting discussion! Lots to work with.

I will be running ground wire through the plastic hose, and maybe spiraled around the hose as per instructions provided with Lee Valley.

The machines are old 2-wire, not grounded motors. The new vacuum is a non grounded unit.

What precisely needs to be grounded, and what happens when I run all this copper wire between non grounded machines? What do I ground it to?

I have iron pipe radiators nearby, and think this will be sufficient, but how do I test for effective ground, in lieu of an explosion?

(this could be too much fun...)

[Hughman]

Thanks for an interesting discussion! Lots to work with.

I will be running ground wire through the plastic hose, and maybe spiraled around the hose as per instructions provided with Lee Valley.

The machines are old 2-wire, not grounded motors. The new vacuum is a non grounded unit.

What precisely needs to be grounded, and what happens when I run all this copper wire between non grounded machines? What do I ground it to?

I have iron pipe radiators nearby, and think this will be sufficient, but how do I test for effective ground, in lieu of an explosion?

(this could be too much fun...)

[Hughman]

Thanks for an interesting discussion! Lots to work with.

I will be running ground wire through the plastic hose, and maybe spiraled around the hose as per instructions provided with Lee Valley.

The machines are old 2-wire, not grounded motors. The new vacuum is a non grounded unit.

What precisely needs to be grounded, and what happens when I run all this copper wire between non grounded machines? What do I ground it to?

I have iron pipe radiators nearby, and think this will be sufficient, but how do I test for effective ground, in lieu of an explosion?

(this could be too much fun...)

[Ron Williamson]

If properly grounded,there won't be static discharge when you touch the pipe.
Actually,can feel the static on a really dry day without touching anything.Just stand close and offer up the back of your hand to the pipe.
The hair will stand up,long before you will get an actual spark.
We've used plastic pipe for a long time,with no actual ground wire,but it has been in short runs,wire hung from grounded plumbing,and used between grounded machines.
R

[Ron Williamson]

If properly grounded,there won't be static discharge when you touch the pipe.
Actually,can feel the static on a really dry day without touching anything.Just stand close and offer up the back of your hand to the pipe.
The hair will stand up,long before you will get an actual spark.
We've used plastic pipe for a long time,with no actual ground wire,but it has been in short runs,wire hung from grounded plumbing,and used between grounded machines.
R

[Ron Williamson]

If properly grounded,there won't be static discharge when you touch the pipe.
Actually,can feel the static on a really dry day without touching anything.Just stand close and offer up the back of your hand to the pipe.
The hair will stand up,long before you will get an actual spark.
We've used plastic pipe for a long time,with no actual ground wire,but it has been in short runs,wire hung from grounded plumbing,and used between grounded machines.
R

[guillemot]

Before you go and set up a 2" system powered by your vacuum cleaner, you MUST read Bill Pentz's web page about dust collection first.

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collector Research (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)

This guy designed the Grizzly system and was a design consultant for the Oneida cyclone. He offers the plans to build one properly yourself on his site for free (he says that Griz. screwed up his design).

His site will explain why 2" pipe with shop vac suction power will not be sufficient to capture the dust your shop machines will put out, and, unless you have a HEPA filter on your vac, the fine particulate dust (which causes health problems) will be blown right back into your shop as though you never tried to collect it in the first place. If you do have a HEPA filter, you'll be cleaning it (outside, so you don't get the fine dust everywhere) every five minutes to keep enough air moving through it.

I could go on, but just read through his site. I was thoroughly convinced that his system is the way to go. Post what you think about it here. Are you sold? Just my two cents.

Jeff

[guillemot]

Before you go and set up a 2" system powered by your vacuum cleaner, you MUST read Bill Pentz's web page about dust collection first.

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collector Research (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)

This guy designed the Grizzly system and was a design consultant for the Oneida cyclone. He offers the plans to build one properly yourself on his site for free (he says that Griz. screwed up his design).

His site will explain why 2" pipe with shop vac suction power will not be sufficient to capture the dust your shop machines will put out, and, unless you have a HEPA filter on your vac, the fine particulate dust (which causes health problems) will be blown right back into your shop as though you never tried to collect it in the first place. If you do have a HEPA filter, you'll be cleaning it (outside, so you don't get the fine dust everywhere) every five minutes to keep enough air moving through it.

I could go on, but just read through his site. I was thoroughly convinced that his system is the way to go. Post what you think about it here. Are you sold? Just my two cents.

Jeff

[guillemot]

Before you go and set up a 2" system powered by your vacuum cleaner, you MUST read Bill Pentz's web page about dust collection first.

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collector Research (http://billpentz.com/woodworking/cyclone/index.cfm)

This guy designed the Grizzly system and was a design consultant for the Oneida cyclone. He offers the plans to build one properly yourself on his site for free (he says that Griz. screwed up his design).

His site will explain why 2" pipe with shop vac suction power will not be sufficient to capture the dust your shop machines will put out, and, unless you have a HEPA filter on your vac, the fine particulate dust (which causes health problems) will be blown right back into your shop as though you never tried to collect it in the first place. If you do have a HEPA filter, you'll be cleaning it (outside, so you don't get the fine dust everywhere) every five minutes to keep enough air moving through it.

I could go on, but just read through his site. I was thoroughly convinced that his system is the way to go. Post what you think about it here. Are you sold? Just my two cents.

Jeff

[Harry Miller]

Hughman I had exactly what you are planning. Well I guess I still have it except the ductwork is never used and the cyclone trash lid is stored someplace. I was forever cleaning out clogs in the piping and removing the chute on my lunchbox planer. With the same shopvac attached directly to the tool I am using it's quite a bit better but still only barely acceptable. I'm now reading Bill's website.
Which doesn't seem to let me off the home page

[ 12-18-2005, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Harry Miller ]

[Harry Miller]

Hughman I had exactly what you are planning. Well I guess I still have it except the ductwork is never used and the cyclone trash lid is stored someplace. I was forever cleaning out clogs in the piping and removing the chute on my lunchbox planer. With the same shopvac attached directly to the tool I am using it's quite a bit better but still only barely acceptable. I'm now reading Bill's website.
Which doesn't seem to let me off the home page

[ 12-18-2005, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Harry Miller ]

[Harry Miller]

Hughman I had exactly what you are planning. Well I guess I still have it except the ductwork is never used and the cyclone trash lid is stored someplace. I was forever cleaning out clogs in the piping and removing the chute on my lunchbox planer. With the same shopvac attached directly to the tool I am using it's quite a bit better but still only barely acceptable. I'm now reading Bill's website.
Which doesn't seem to let me off the home page

[ 12-18-2005, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: Harry Miller ]

[guillemot]

All the links on Bill's website take you to the top of similar looking pages. Scroll down the windows and you'll see that the content changes as you click through the different headings on the top menu.

Here, these are from his site on appropriate ducting:
"Ensure ample air velocity to keep the dust and chips moving without clogging your ducting. Ideally, you should have 4000 FPM airspeed in the ducts to keep them clear. You need about 3000 FPM airspeed to pull chips and dust horizontally. You need at least 3700 CFM airspeed to pull chips and dust upward. The calculator shows that 6" ducting comes closest to that 4000 FPM goal at 800 CFM needed to keep the ducting clear."

"Fix your ducting! Most existing small shop dust collection systems are made from hobbyist vendor supplied 4” ducting and fittings. Almost always you need to replace this sized pipe unless you are willing to step up to a really big blower and motor to overcome the very high resistance of this small pipe. Most need to redo our ducting getting rid of excessive fittings, tight angles, plus any hoses or duct with too small diameters.

Pick the right blower type. Industrial dust collectors come in a range of sizes and three main types. Most use powerful vacuum cleaner systems for cleanup and vacuuming. Although the vacuums do a great job of clean up, most only move under 100 CFM so are far too small for most of our tools. That leaves two different types of commonly used dust collector systems. Most are based on what are known as material movement impellers. These kinds of impellers are built to take hard hits from blocks and such, plus are fairly self cleaning so they do not build up strings, shavings, and other debris. In large commercial systems where the blower can be protected, some facilities use a more efficient airfoil or caged impeller. These are rarely found in small shop systems because they require regular inspection and cleaning, plus most small shop systems do not have ample filtering to ensure these easily damaged impellers do not get hit by debris."

He goes on in great detail about what types of systems are needed to provide that kind of air movement and how to calculate what you need for your particular shop.

J

[ 12-18-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[guillemot]

All the links on Bill's website take you to the top of similar looking pages. Scroll down the windows and you'll see that the content changes as you click through the different headings on the top menu.

Here, these are from his site on appropriate ducting:
"Ensure ample air velocity to keep the dust and chips moving without clogging your ducting. Ideally, you should have 4000 FPM airspeed in the ducts to keep them clear. You need about 3000 FPM airspeed to pull chips and dust horizontally. You need at least 3700 CFM airspeed to pull chips and dust upward. The calculator shows that 6" ducting comes closest to that 4000 FPM goal at 800 CFM needed to keep the ducting clear."

"Fix your ducting! Most existing small shop dust collection systems are made from hobbyist vendor supplied 4” ducting and fittings. Almost always you need to replace this sized pipe unless you are willing to step up to a really big blower and motor to overcome the very high resistance of this small pipe. Most need to redo our ducting getting rid of excessive fittings, tight angles, plus any hoses or duct with too small diameters.

Pick the right blower type. Industrial dust collectors come in a range of sizes and three main types. Most use powerful vacuum cleaner systems for cleanup and vacuuming. Although the vacuums do a great job of clean up, most only move under 100 CFM so are far too small for most of our tools. That leaves two different types of commonly used dust collector systems. Most are based on what are known as material movement impellers. These kinds of impellers are built to take hard hits from blocks and such, plus are fairly self cleaning so they do not build up strings, shavings, and other debris. In large commercial systems where the blower can be protected, some facilities use a more efficient airfoil or caged impeller. These are rarely found in small shop systems because they require regular inspection and cleaning, plus most small shop systems do not have ample filtering to ensure these easily damaged impellers do not get hit by debris."

He goes on in great detail about what types of systems are needed to provide that kind of air movement and how to calculate what you need for your particular shop.

J

[ 12-18-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[guillemot]

All the links on Bill's website take you to the top of similar looking pages. Scroll down the windows and you'll see that the content changes as you click through the different headings on the top menu.

Here, these are from his site on appropriate ducting:
"Ensure ample air velocity to keep the dust and chips moving without clogging your ducting. Ideally, you should have 4000 FPM airspeed in the ducts to keep them clear. You need about 3000 FPM airspeed to pull chips and dust horizontally. You need at least 3700 CFM airspeed to pull chips and dust upward. The calculator shows that 6" ducting comes closest to that 4000 FPM goal at 800 CFM needed to keep the ducting clear."

"Fix your ducting! Most existing small shop dust collection systems are made from hobbyist vendor supplied 4” ducting and fittings. Almost always you need to replace this sized pipe unless you are willing to step up to a really big blower and motor to overcome the very high resistance of this small pipe. Most need to redo our ducting getting rid of excessive fittings, tight angles, plus any hoses or duct with too small diameters.

Pick the right blower type. Industrial dust collectors come in a range of sizes and three main types. Most use powerful vacuum cleaner systems for cleanup and vacuuming. Although the vacuums do a great job of clean up, most only move under 100 CFM so are far too small for most of our tools. That leaves two different types of commonly used dust collector systems. Most are based on what are known as material movement impellers. These kinds of impellers are built to take hard hits from blocks and such, plus are fairly self cleaning so they do not build up strings, shavings, and other debris. In large commercial systems where the blower can be protected, some facilities use a more efficient airfoil or caged impeller. These are rarely found in small shop systems because they require regular inspection and cleaning, plus most small shop systems do not have ample filtering to ensure these easily damaged impellers do not get hit by debris."

He goes on in great detail about what types of systems are needed to provide that kind of air movement and how to calculate what you need for your particular shop.

J

[ 12-18-2005, 11:29 PM: Message edited by: guillemot ]

[Lew Barrett]

Right on target. Bill's page is probably the best site around for getting up to speed on the topic. Bill makes it clear how "specific" you need to be if you really want to spare yourself from the problem. I got involved with dust collection because I wanted to spare myself the daily clean ups, but this resource reminds us that when working with wood, there's more at stake than just making a mess that needs sweeping.
Thanks for reminding me.
Lew

[Lew Barrett]

Right on target. Bill's page is probably the best site around for getting up to speed on the topic. Bill makes it clear how "specific" you need to be if you really want to spare yourself from the problem. I got involved with dust collection because I wanted to spare myself the daily clean ups, but this resource reminds us that when working with wood, there's more at stake than just making a mess that needs sweeping.
Thanks for reminding me.
Lew

[Lew Barrett]

Right on target. Bill's page is probably the best site around for getting up to speed on the topic. Bill makes it clear how "specific" you need to be if you really want to spare yourself from the problem. I got involved with dust collection because I wanted to spare myself the daily clean ups, but this resource reminds us that when working with wood, there's more at stake than just making a mess that needs sweeping.
Thanks for reminding me.
Lew

[George Roberts]

For my money Bill Pentz is a fool, but everyone should make their own decisions. [He thinks he has health problems related to wood dust (acording to his web site his doctor disagrees) and now has become a poorly informed avocate for expensive solutions.]

It is important to realize that DUST not chips is the health hazard. The particles that dust collectors miss cause the worse problems.

3" PVC pipe with a 1 hp chip collector will keep a 1 man shop reasonably clean of chips. It does nothing for dust. The static charge is on the outside of the PVC so no grounding is necessary to prevent sparks/fires in the dust stream.

According to reliable experts moving dusty air to the exterior is the only way to remove dust. Open windows/doors with perhaps a small fan is sufficient for a 1 man shop.

[George Roberts]

For my money Bill Pentz is a fool, but everyone should make their own decisions. [He thinks he has health problems related to wood dust (acording to his web site his doctor disagrees) and now has become a poorly informed avocate for expensive solutions.]

It is important to realize that DUST not chips is the health hazard. The particles that dust collectors miss cause the worse problems.

3" PVC pipe with a 1 hp chip collector will keep a 1 man shop reasonably clean of chips. It does nothing for dust. The static charge is on the outside of the PVC so no grounding is necessary to prevent sparks/fires in the dust stream.

According to reliable experts moving dusty air to the exterior is the only way to remove dust. Open windows/doors with perhaps a small fan is sufficient for a 1 man shop.

[George Roberts]

For my money Bill Pentz is a fool, but everyone should make their own decisions. [He thinks he has health problems related to wood dust (acording to his web site his doctor disagrees) and now has become a poorly informed avocate for expensive solutions.]

It is important to realize that DUST not chips is the health hazard. The particles that dust collectors miss cause the worse problems.

3" PVC pipe with a 1 hp chip collector will keep a 1 man shop reasonably clean of chips. It does nothing for dust. The static charge is on the outside of the PVC so no grounding is necessary to prevent sparks/fires in the dust stream.

According to reliable experts moving dusty air to the exterior is the only way to remove dust. Open windows/doors with perhaps a small fan is sufficient for a 1 man shop.

[John Hastie]

Uh, guys, anyone considered a dustmask and broom?

[John Hastie]

Uh, guys, anyone considered a dustmask and broom?

[John Hastie]

Uh, guys, anyone considered a dustmask and broom?

[Bob Cleek]

The now near-universal infatuation with production grade powered tools has generated a whole lot of fine dust in small shops. To some extent, I think the health hazards of sawdust are overblown. If it is that bad, wear a dust mask. Sand outside. A decent fixed dust collection system is a real luxury and can save a lot of clean up, if you want your shop to look like an operating room. I've explored the options as others here have. I agree, chips and shavings, particularly from hand tools, are easily swept up with broom and dust pan, but if you are going to suck it, you may as well get a system that will take care of it all. When I win the lottery, I'd go with a cyclone system vented OUTSIDE so all the fine dust is blown outside the shop. This is the only solution. Any bagged system will blow dust through the bag, the better the bag, the finer the dust. You need power and large diameter ducting. And, you need more than a ground wire for static. Power tools can very easily heat wood and dust to the point of combustion. Fine dust is explosive, but more troubling is a smoldering dust bin, particularly one fanned by a blower! After use, the collection drum should be stored outside where it will not set the shop on fire if there is a fire in it. It doesn't seem that the cyclone systems pay enough attention to this issue for my comfort level.

Shop equipment seems to run in fads. I'm betting that they small cyclone systems are going to evenually supplant the bag systems as the bag systems have supplanted the shop vac run systems. Eventually, the price of the small cyclones will drop. They aren't rocket science. Just a blower and some sheet metal is all. Their biggest advantage is that the exhaust can be blown through the wall into the outside. That's where it's at.

[Bob Cleek]

The now near-universal infatuation with production grade powered tools has generated a whole lot of fine dust in small shops. To some extent, I think the health hazards of sawdust are overblown. If it is that bad, wear a dust mask. Sand outside. A decent fixed dust collection system is a real luxury and can save a lot of clean up, if you want your shop to look like an operating room. I've explored the options as others here have. I agree, chips and shavings, particularly from hand tools, are easily swept up with broom and dust pan, but if you are going to suck it, you may as well get a system that will take care of it all. When I win the lottery, I'd go with a cyclone system vented OUTSIDE so all the fine dust is blown outside the shop. This is the only solution. Any bagged system will blow dust through the bag, the better the bag, the finer the dust. You need power and large diameter ducting. And, you need more than a ground wire for static. Power tools can very easily heat wood and dust to the point of combustion. Fine dust is explosive, but more troubling is a smoldering dust bin, particularly one fanned by a blower! After use, the collection drum should be stored outside where it will not set the shop on fire if there is a fire in it. It doesn't seem that the cyclone systems pay enough attention to this issue for my comfort level.

Shop equipment seems to run in fads. I'm betting that they small cyclone systems are going to evenually supplant the bag systems as the bag systems have supplanted the shop vac run systems. Eventually, the price of the small cyclones will drop. They aren't rocket science. Just a blower and some sheet metal is all. Their biggest advantage is that the exhaust can be blown through the wall into the outside. That's where it's at.

[Bob Cleek]

The now near-universal infatuation with production grade powered tools has generated a whole lot of fine dust in small shops. To some extent, I think the health hazards of sawdust are overblown. If it is that bad, wear a dust mask. Sand outside. A decent fixed dust collection system is a real luxury and can save a lot of clean up, if you want your shop to look like an operating room. I've explored the options as others here have. I agree, chips and shavings, particularly from hand tools, are easily swept up with broom and dust pan, but if you are going to suck it, you may as well get a system that will take care of it all. When I win the lottery, I'd go with a cyclone system vented OUTSIDE so all the fine dust is blown outside the shop. This is the only solution. Any bagged system will blow dust through the bag, the better the bag, the finer the dust. You need power and large diameter ducting. And, you need more than a ground wire for static. Power tools can very easily heat wood and dust to the point of combustion. Fine dust is explosive, but more troubling is a smoldering dust bin, particularly one fanned by a blower! After use, the collection drum should be stored outside where it will not set the shop on fire if there is a fire in it. It doesn't seem that the cyclone systems pay enough attention to this issue for my comfort level.

Shop equipment seems to run in fads. I'm betting that they small cyclone systems are going to evenually supplant the bag systems as the bag systems have supplanted the shop vac run systems. Eventually, the price of the small cyclones will drop. They aren't rocket science. Just a blower and some sheet metal is all. Their biggest advantage is that the exhaust can be blown through the wall into the outside. That's where it's at.

[Dave Hadfield]

Vent outside? At 20-below?

Maybe it's an option in California, but not here. Air is too expensive to heat to simply blow it outside.

I collect the chips, shavings, and quite a bit of dust in the box I described earlier. Other than that, I wear a dust mask.

Have you tried the mask that has a simple valve in it? An exhalation valve. It's far superior to the cheapies if you wear glasses. They don't fog up.

[Dave Hadfield]

Vent outside? At 20-below?

Maybe it's an option in California, but not here. Air is too expensive to heat to simply blow it outside.

I collect the chips, shavings, and quite a bit of dust in the box I described earlier. Other than that, I wear a dust mask.

Have you tried the mask that has a simple valve in it? An exhalation valve. It's far superior to the cheapies if you wear glasses. They don't fog up.

[Dave Hadfield]

Vent outside? At 20-below?

Maybe it's an option in California, but not here. Air is too expensive to heat to simply blow it outside.

I collect the chips, shavings, and quite a bit of dust in the box I described earlier. Other than that, I wear a dust mask.

Have you tried the mask that has a simple valve in it? An exhalation valve. It's far superior to the cheapies if you wear glasses. They don't fog up.

[guillemot]

In my shop, I use a shopvac with HEPA filter attached directly to the few machines that will attach to it (RO and palm sanders and planer. Otherwise, it's the dust mask and broom. With my shop on the basement, having a way to prevent that dust from getting into the house would be a worthwhile investment, in my opinion. I might where a mask downstairs, but some of that dust gets relocated via the heating system in winter, gets into the clean laundry (that is always stacked next to my bench), gets into our stored belongings, and (1) gets me in trouble and (2) gives my housemates and dog allergies. Plus, I'm not fond of sneezing myself.

Venting high air volumes outdoors in winter is not an option, so a filtered exhaust system such as Bill's would be best for me. Reality check: his cyclone, which I believe would address my dust issues and concerns, would still cost about $300-350 to build + the cost of ducting. When I have the money to invest in dust collection, I will build one. As Bob said, the bag-type collectors are just for chips, and chips aren't what concerns me.

[guillemot]

In my shop, I use a shopvac with HEPA filter attached directly to the few machines that will attach to it (RO and palm sanders and planer. Otherwise, it's the dust mask and broom. With my shop on the basement, having a way to prevent that dust from getting into the house would be a worthwhile investment, in my opinion. I might where a mask downstairs, but some of that dust gets relocated via the heating system in winter, gets into the clean laundry (that is always stacked next to my bench), gets into our stored belongings, and (1) gets me in trouble and (2) gives my housemates and dog allergies. Plus, I'm not fond of sneezing myself.

Venting high air volumes outdoors in winter is not an option, so a filtered exhaust system such as Bill's would be best for me. Reality check: his cyclone, which I believe would address my dust issues and concerns, would still cost about $300-350 to build + the cost of ducting. When I have the money to invest in dust collection, I will build one. As Bob said, the bag-type collectors are just for chips, and chips aren't what concerns me.

[guillemot]

In my shop, I use a shopvac with HEPA filter attached directly to the few machines that will attach to it (RO and palm sanders and planer. Otherwise, it's the dust mask and broom. With my shop on the basement, having a way to prevent that dust from getting into the house would be a worthwhile investment, in my opinion. I might where a mask downstairs, but some of that dust gets relocated via the heating system in winter, gets into the clean laundry (that is always stacked next to my bench), gets into our stored belongings, and (1) gets me in trouble and (2) gives my housemates and dog allergies. Plus, I'm not fond of sneezing myself.

Venting high air volumes outdoors in winter is not an option, so a filtered exhaust system such as Bill's would be best for me. Reality check: his cyclone, which I believe would address my dust issues and concerns, would still cost about $300-350 to build + the cost of ducting. When I have the money to invest in dust collection, I will build one. As Bob said, the bag-type collectors are just for chips, and chips aren't what concerns me.

[Billy Bones]

The 1.5 oneida with the external filter is what my small professional shop has. I used to duct it everywhere, but that cut down on efficiency and was no easier than having one central port with a long hose.

On venting outside, it's a dangerous thing to do. Yes, it will guarantee you don't rebreathe the same dust you sucked up in the first place, but if you don't make careful arrangements to replace the air you're dumping outside, you run the risk of sucking in air from the furnace/heating system/plumbing vents etcetera. Furnace fumes (like CO) will kill you much more quickly than most particulates.

[Billy Bones]

The 1.5 oneida with the external filter is what my small professional shop has. I used to duct it everywhere, but that cut down on efficiency and was no easier than having one central port with a long hose.

On venting outside, it's a dangerous thing to do. Yes, it will guarantee you don't rebreathe the same dust you sucked up in the first place, but if you don't make careful arrangements to replace the air you're dumping outside, you run the risk of sucking in air from the furnace/heating system/plumbing vents etcetera. Furnace fumes (like CO) will kill you much more quickly than most particulates.

[Billy Bones]

The 1.5 oneida with the external filter is what my small professional shop has. I used to duct it everywhere, but that cut down on efficiency and was no easier than having one central port with a long hose.

On venting outside, it's a dangerous thing to do. Yes, it will guarantee you don't rebreathe the same dust you sucked up in the first place, but if you don't make careful arrangements to replace the air you're dumping outside, you run the risk of sucking in air from the furnace/heating system/plumbing vents etcetera. Furnace fumes (like CO) will kill you much more quickly than most particulates.

[Garrett Lowell]

I used to utilize a shopvac, but the noise is just too much. I'd say it's at least as loud as the router under a load.

[Garrett Lowell]

I used to utilize a shopvac, but the noise is just too much. I'd say it's at least as loud as the router under a load.

[Garrett Lowell]

I used to utilize a shopvac, but the noise is just too much. I'd say it's at least as loud as the router under a load.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Guys -I keep saying- Don't collect dust- get rid of it!! Best way , go buy cheap electric leaf blowers from HD- connect the suction side to the dust chutes of your machine- one per machine. Run the output thru the wall and outside. If you can't live with that- put a garbage can under the output. I've had this system in place 10 years now- works just fine.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Guys -I keep saying- Don't collect dust- get rid of it!! Best way , go buy cheap electric leaf blowers from HD- connect the suction side to the dust chutes of your machine- one per machine. Run the output thru the wall and outside. If you can't live with that- put a garbage can under the output. I've had this system in place 10 years now- works just fine.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Guys -I keep saying- Don't collect dust- get rid of it!! Best way , go buy cheap electric leaf blowers from HD- connect the suction side to the dust chutes of your machine- one per machine. Run the output thru the wall and outside. If you can't live with that- put a garbage can under the output. I've had this system in place 10 years now- works just fine.

[Bob Cleek]

Now, Dale, THAT sounds like a great idea! Never occurred to me before.

[Bob Cleek]

Now, Dale, THAT sounds like a great idea! Never occurred to me before.

[Bob Cleek]

Now, Dale, THAT sounds like a great idea! Never occurred to me before.

[Dave Hadfield]

Maybe it works in Tennesee, but I work too hard cutting the firewood to feed the stove that heats my shop to just blow the air outside.

In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask.

I had a look a Reuel Parker's book, and admired the location of his boatbuilding -- under a tarp, in an open-sided shelter. That must be nice, with the wind blowing through. But it's sure not like that here, and moving south isn't an option.

[Dave Hadfield]

Maybe it works in Tennesee, but I work too hard cutting the firewood to feed the stove that heats my shop to just blow the air outside.

In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask.

I had a look a Reuel Parker's book, and admired the location of his boatbuilding -- under a tarp, in an open-sided shelter. That must be nice, with the wind blowing through. But it's sure not like that here, and moving south isn't an option.

[Dave Hadfield]

Maybe it works in Tennesee, but I work too hard cutting the firewood to feed the stove that heats my shop to just blow the air outside.

In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask.

I had a look a Reuel Parker's book, and admired the location of his boatbuilding -- under a tarp, in an open-sided shelter. That must be nice, with the wind blowing through. But it's sure not like that here, and moving south isn't an option.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[Lew Barrett]

Here's what I've observed living with a Jet DC1100CK (cannister style) collector for the 6 months I've had it:

If I don't want dust up my nose I still have to wear a mask even with the dust collector running, especially if I'm working on top of a machine (as you would a bandsaw). My bandsaw isn't a terribly efficient collector possibly because it only has a 2.5 inch dust port, but then it isn't the worst offender either. With a collector (or vac) it's much better, but I need the mask if I want to keep my nose really clean. I certainly don't have the same levels of dust in the air. Probably the best part for me has been in the house, not necessarily perfection in my little city basement shop.

For machines like the bandsaw or chop saw (with it's blow out the back port), my shop vac seems almost as good as the Jet. For the table saw, the Jet is much better. With either the vac or the bigger collector on my open bottom table saw, nothing really improved until I enclosed the bottom of the saw. Then the Jet proved better.
With all due respect, I don't know how I could determine what the real health hazards of dust are until it was too late, especially regarding some of the exotic woods (aren't some claimed to be carcinogenic?), but I like the cleaner shop and house. I absolutely won't take any more health risks than I already have subjected myself to in my life, but I'm sure I could get by with just the mask and a shop vac, The Jet is probably a luxury in my situation...to be frank I'd hoped for better results, like total banishment of the dust. But things are better.

I believe Bill's page may be onto something (I can't prove it) because although I have improved machinery, I haven't followed all his recommendations ( which more or less follow the bulk of others I've read) , and in the end I have half assed results. There...I said it. But half assed is, for me, better than a complete ass. No question, the best thing you can do for yourself if you don't want to breathe dust is wear a mask. Wasn't that understood?
Reviewing or rating the difference between the various collector options is way beyond my experience, but my situation is definitly better than it was.

"In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask."

[ 12-21-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[Lew Barrett]

Here's what I've observed living with a Jet DC1100CK (cannister style) collector for the 6 months I've had it:

If I don't want dust up my nose I still have to wear a mask even with the dust collector running, especially if I'm working on top of a machine (as you would a bandsaw). My bandsaw isn't a terribly efficient collector possibly because it only has a 2.5 inch dust port, but then it isn't the worst offender either. With a collector (or vac) it's much better, but I need the mask if I want to keep my nose really clean. I certainly don't have the same levels of dust in the air. Probably the best part for me has been in the house, not necessarily perfection in my little city basement shop.

For machines like the bandsaw or chop saw (with it's blow out the back port), my shop vac seems almost as good as the Jet. For the table saw, the Jet is much better. With either the vac or the bigger collector on my open bottom table saw, nothing really improved until I enclosed the bottom of the saw. Then the Jet proved better.
With all due respect, I don't know how I could determine what the real health hazards of dust are until it was too late, especially regarding some of the exotic woods (aren't some claimed to be carcinogenic?), but I like the cleaner shop and house. I absolutely won't take any more health risks than I already have subjected myself to in my life, but I'm sure I could get by with just the mask and a shop vac, The Jet is probably a luxury in my situation...to be frank I'd hoped for better results, like total banishment of the dust. But things are better.

I believe Bill's page may be onto something (I can't prove it) because although I have improved machinery, I haven't followed all his recommendations ( which more or less follow the bulk of others I've read) , and in the end I have half assed results. There...I said it. But half assed is, for me, better than a complete ass. No question, the best thing you can do for yourself if you don't want to breathe dust is wear a mask. Wasn't that understood?
Reviewing or rating the difference between the various collector options is way beyond my experience, but my situation is definitly better than it was.

"In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask."

[ 12-21-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[Lew Barrett]

Here's what I've observed living with a Jet DC1100CK (cannister style) collector for the 6 months I've had it:

If I don't want dust up my nose I still have to wear a mask even with the dust collector running, especially if I'm working on top of a machine (as you would a bandsaw). My bandsaw isn't a terribly efficient collector possibly because it only has a 2.5 inch dust port, but then it isn't the worst offender either. With a collector (or vac) it's much better, but I need the mask if I want to keep my nose really clean. I certainly don't have the same levels of dust in the air. Probably the best part for me has been in the house, not necessarily perfection in my little city basement shop.

For machines like the bandsaw or chop saw (with it's blow out the back port), my shop vac seems almost as good as the Jet. For the table saw, the Jet is much better. With either the vac or the bigger collector on my open bottom table saw, nothing really improved until I enclosed the bottom of the saw. Then the Jet proved better.
With all due respect, I don't know how I could determine what the real health hazards of dust are until it was too late, especially regarding some of the exotic woods (aren't some claimed to be carcinogenic?), but I like the cleaner shop and house. I absolutely won't take any more health risks than I already have subjected myself to in my life, but I'm sure I could get by with just the mask and a shop vac, The Jet is probably a luxury in my situation...to be frank I'd hoped for better results, like total banishment of the dust. But things are better.

I believe Bill's page may be onto something (I can't prove it) because although I have improved machinery, I haven't followed all his recommendations ( which more or less follow the bulk of others I've read) , and in the end I have half assed results. There...I said it. But half assed is, for me, better than a complete ass. No question, the best thing you can do for yourself if you don't want to breathe dust is wear a mask. Wasn't that understood?
Reviewing or rating the difference between the various collector options is way beyond my experience, but my situation is definitly better than it was.

"In a cold climate, you gotta spring for the dust collection and filtration (and it costs), and/or wear a dust mask."

[ 12-21-2005, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[PeterSibley]

I won't talk about the way my system vents out the side of the shed...its hot here ,not cold .What I will say is that for those extensive sanding jobs where the dust so hard to control....you get some but heaps gets away .(Free form shaping on an inflatable drum etc )...I did it for around 8 years and probably owe my lungs to a Racal Airhat.There are better bits of gear on the market now, but it was the only thing available at the time.Marvelous bit of kit smile.gif .I could finish an 8 hr session covered from head to foot in super fine dust,with nothing in my nose smile.gif I don't think any dust extraction system I've seen could have given such results.

[PeterSibley]

I won't talk about the way my system vents out the side of the shed...its hot here ,not cold .What I will say is that for those extensive sanding jobs where the dust so hard to control....you get some but heaps gets away .(Free form shaping on an inflatable drum etc )...I did it for around 8 years and probably owe my lungs to a Racal Airhat.There are better bits of gear on the market now, but it was the only thing available at the time.Marvelous bit of kit smile.gif .I could finish an 8 hr session covered from head to foot in super fine dust,with nothing in my nose smile.gif I don't think any dust extraction system I've seen could have given such results.

[PeterSibley]

I won't talk about the way my system vents out the side of the shed...its hot here ,not cold .What I will say is that for those extensive sanding jobs where the dust so hard to control....you get some but heaps gets away .(Free form shaping on an inflatable drum etc )...I did it for around 8 years and probably owe my lungs to a Racal Airhat.There are better bits of gear on the market now, but it was the only thing available at the time.Marvelous bit of kit smile.gif .I could finish an 8 hr session covered from head to foot in super fine dust,with nothing in my nose smile.gif I don't think any dust extraction system I've seen could have given such results.

[Hughman]

This discussion is great! You guys are solving problems I didn't know I had! LOL! smile.gif

I bought a cyclone can lid, and some duct gates from Lee Valley, but didn't spring for the whole kit: This is schedule 20 PVC - NOT plumbing PVC, which is schedule 40.

Schedule 20 is sold (at the wholesale electric supply house) as central vacuum systems (www.nutone.com), and has 10' pipe, and connectors for a fraction of the price of Lee Valley, which can still supply the right sized duct gates for this pipe.

The shop vac is powerful enough to collapse the plastic trashcan, so I have to find a 30 gallon barrel....

The stuff I have assembled will allow easy clean up, keeping the vac hoses from underfoot, but won't address the health hazard of the dust. I'm in a cold climate also.

I guess I will be satisfied with the convenience of easy cleanup, and wear a dust mask for the health hazard.

[Hughman]

This discussion is great! You guys are solving problems I didn't know I had! LOL! smile.gif

I bought a cyclone can lid, and some duct gates from Lee Valley, but didn't spring for the whole kit: This is schedule 20 PVC - NOT plumbing PVC, which is schedule 40.

Schedule 20 is sold (at the wholesale electric supply house) as central vacuum systems (www.nutone.com), and has 10' pipe, and connectors for a fraction of the price of Lee Valley, which can still supply the right sized duct gates for this pipe.

The shop vac is powerful enough to collapse the plastic trashcan, so I have to find a 30 gallon barrel....

The stuff I have assembled will allow easy clean up, keeping the vac hoses from underfoot, but won't address the health hazard of the dust. I'm in a cold climate also.

I guess I will be satisfied with the convenience of easy cleanup, and wear a dust mask for the health hazard.

[Hughman]

This discussion is great! You guys are solving problems I didn't know I had! LOL! smile.gif

I bought a cyclone can lid, and some duct gates from Lee Valley, but didn't spring for the whole kit: This is schedule 20 PVC - NOT plumbing PVC, which is schedule 40.

Schedule 20 is sold (at the wholesale electric supply house) as central vacuum systems (www.nutone.com), and has 10' pipe, and connectors for a fraction of the price of Lee Valley, which can still supply the right sized duct gates for this pipe.

The shop vac is powerful enough to collapse the plastic trashcan, so I have to find a 30 gallon barrel....

The stuff I have assembled will allow easy clean up, keeping the vac hoses from underfoot, but won't address the health hazard of the dust. I'm in a cold climate also.

I guess I will be satisfied with the convenience of easy cleanup, and wear a dust mask for the health hazard.

[Lew Barrett]

I'm not complaining, but a 24X36 shop sounds huge to me. Mine is maybe 9X18, so I have a basic set arrangement that I can use for most small projects but essentially push all my machines around when I'm working on bigger pieces. I open doors, and things are run half in, half out of the shop area. I spill out into my garage (which is attached) and keep my drill press in there. Winter work on anything longer than four to six foot pieces is a drag.
If I had a space like yours I probably would have sprung for a cyclone and permanent ducting. In my small space, I have to clean up constantly if I don't want to trip over everything or traipse back through my offcuts and newly minted dust. Yet another reason why despite the limited footprint, I thought dust collection was a good idea.
I cannot finish in my cutting room, won't even try. Everything gets finished in the garage or at the boathouse. Collection has not changed that for me.

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[ 12-21-2005, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[Lew Barrett]

I'm not complaining, but a 24X36 shop sounds huge to me. Mine is maybe 9X18, so I have a basic set arrangement that I can use for most small projects but essentially push all my machines around when I'm working on bigger pieces. I open doors, and things are run half in, half out of the shop area. I spill out into my garage (which is attached) and keep my drill press in there. Winter work on anything longer than four to six foot pieces is a drag.
If I had a space like yours I probably would have sprung for a cyclone and permanent ducting. In my small space, I have to clean up constantly if I don't want to trip over everything or traipse back through my offcuts and newly minted dust. Yet another reason why despite the limited footprint, I thought dust collection was a good idea.
I cannot finish in my cutting room, won't even try. Everything gets finished in the garage or at the boathouse. Collection has not changed that for me.

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[ 12-21-2005, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[Lew Barrett]

I'm not complaining, but a 24X36 shop sounds huge to me. Mine is maybe 9X18, so I have a basic set arrangement that I can use for most small projects but essentially push all my machines around when I'm working on bigger pieces. I open doors, and things are run half in, half out of the shop area. I spill out into my garage (which is attached) and keep my drill press in there. Winter work on anything longer than four to six foot pieces is a drag.
If I had a space like yours I probably would have sprung for a cyclone and permanent ducting. In my small space, I have to clean up constantly if I don't want to trip over everything or traipse back through my offcuts and newly minted dust. Yet another reason why despite the limited footprint, I thought dust collection was a good idea.
I cannot finish in my cutting room, won't even try. Everything gets finished in the garage or at the boathouse. Collection has not changed that for me.

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I have a lot of tools in my shop (24X36) and the dust it creates is problematic for just the reason that I finish in there too... I'm following this thread with interest.

[ 12-21-2005, 11:39 AM: Message edited by: Lew Barrett ]

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, my problem just got solved. SWMBO bought me a 900 cfm 1.5 horse dust system. I have to get the piping and install it.. ummm are the stores open today :D :D :cool:

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, my problem just got solved. SWMBO bought me a 900 cfm 1.5 horse dust system. I have to get the piping and install it.. ummm are the stores open today :D :D :cool:

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, my problem just got solved. SWMBO bought me a 900 cfm 1.5 horse dust system. I have to get the piping and install it.. ummm are the stores open today :D :D :cool:

[Thad]

My cent worth: My first experience with dust collection involved my brother's 15" Makita planer. He sharpens his own blades and found that with dust collection the blades stayed sharper way longer. Makes sense to me as the blades travel a foot or so for every quarter inch or inch of cutting and the less they hit in their travels the sharper they stay. Good reaason for more suction, beside your lungs and the mess.

[Thad]

My cent worth: My first experience with dust collection involved my brother's 15" Makita planer. He sharpens his own blades and found that with dust collection the blades stayed sharper way longer. Makes sense to me as the blades travel a foot or so for every quarter inch or inch of cutting and the less they hit in their travels the sharper they stay. Good reaason for more suction, beside your lungs and the mess.

[Thad]

My cent worth: My first experience with dust collection involved my brother's 15" Makita planer. He sharpens his own blades and found that with dust collection the blades stayed sharper way longer. Makes sense to me as the blades travel a foot or so for every quarter inch or inch of cutting and the less they hit in their travels the sharper they stay. Good reaason for more suction, beside your lungs and the mess.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.

[Kim Whitmyre]

PMJ, remember, the furnace pipe may not be up to the suction created by the 1 1/2hp system. You don't want to spend the money and time to have to do it over again. The Danish piping/clamp system I have could be called overkill, but the spiral stuff Oneida sells (among others) is designed to take the suction without collapsing.

[Kim Whitmyre]

PMJ, remember, the furnace pipe may not be up to the suction created by the 1 1/2hp system. You don't want to spend the money and time to have to do it over again. The Danish piping/clamp system I have could be called overkill, but the spiral stuff Oneida sells (among others) is designed to take the suction without collapsing.

[Kim Whitmyre]

PMJ, remember, the furnace pipe may not be up to the suction created by the 1 1/2hp system. You don't want to spend the money and time to have to do it over again. The Danish piping/clamp system I have could be called overkill, but the spiral stuff Oneida sells (among others) is designed to take the suction without collapsing.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Hmmm... never thought of that. I gues there would be quite a bit of suction, altho I would have thought that galvanized steel ducting could take quite a bit of suction.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Hmmm... never thought of that. I gues there would be quite a bit of suction, altho I would have thought that galvanized steel ducting could take quite a bit of suction.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Hmmm... never thought of that. I gues there would be quite a bit of suction, altho I would have thought that galvanized steel ducting could take quite a bit of suction.

[Kim Whitmyre]

Here's Oneida's guide to the subject:

Duct Guide (http://www.oneida-air.com/design/ductguide.pdf)

They mention a range of gauges for piping: most HVAC piping (home center stuff) is too thin.

[ 12-27-2005, 12:57 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Here's Oneida's guide to the subject:

Duct Guide (http://www.oneida-air.com/design/ductguide.pdf)

They mention a range of gauges for piping: most HVAC piping (home center stuff) is too thin.

[ 12-27-2005, 12:57 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Kim Whitmyre]

Here's Oneida's guide to the subject:

Duct Guide (http://www.oneida-air.com/design/ductguide.pdf)

They mention a range of gauges for piping: most HVAC piping (home center stuff) is too thin.

[ 12-27-2005, 12:57 AM: Message edited by: Kim Whitmyre ]

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Reference my recent post advocating use of leaf blowers- Its cold as hell here now, and I just spent the weekend in the shop. I paid special attention to the ambient temps at both ends of the shop with machines running. There is absolutely no detectable fluctuations of temperature with my system in place. I have 5 cheap leaf blowers- now at least 5 years. Have not replaced a single one- they work fine.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Reference my recent post advocating use of leaf blowers- Its cold as hell here now, and I just spent the weekend in the shop. I paid special attention to the ambient temps at both ends of the shop with machines running. There is absolutely no detectable fluctuations of temperature with my system in place. I have 5 cheap leaf blowers- now at least 5 years. Have not replaced a single one- they work fine.

[Dale R. Hamilton]

Reference my recent post advocating use of leaf blowers- Its cold as hell here now, and I just spent the weekend in the shop. I paid special attention to the ambient temps at both ends of the shop with machines running. There is absolutely no detectable fluctuations of temperature with my system in place. I have 5 cheap leaf blowers- now at least 5 years. Have not replaced a single one- they work fine.

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.Peter, what do you use for gates in 4" line?

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.Peter, what do you use for gates in 4" line?

[Hughman]

Originally posted by Peter Malcolm Jardine:
I assume you use dryer hose for this stuff, plus hard Y's and so forth. Lee Valley sells the clear stuff, but it's stupid money. I might use furnace duct.Peter, what do you use for gates in 4" line?

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, Lee Valley sell the gates too, but not all my tools have 4 inch pipe... The tablesaw and the planer do, but the mitre saw is much smaller, and the bandsaw and lathe will be different setups too.

Last but not least, I haven't really solidly decided where everything is going to be locate permanently... I guess that's first. This install is going to require some thought on overall setup as well as ducting.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, Lee Valley sell the gates too, but not all my tools have 4 inch pipe... The tablesaw and the planer do, but the mitre saw is much smaller, and the bandsaw and lathe will be different setups too.

Last but not least, I haven't really solidly decided where everything is going to be locate permanently... I guess that's first. This install is going to require some thought on overall setup as well as ducting.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Well, Lee Valley sell the gates too, but not all my tools have 4 inch pipe... The tablesaw and the planer do, but the mitre saw is much smaller, and the bandsaw and lathe will be different setups too.

Last but not least, I haven't really solidly decided where everything is going to be locate permanently... I guess that's first. This install is going to require some thought on overall setup as well as ducting.

[Hughman]

There oughta be some useful gate designs that can be easily made.

Somebody here has done this?

[Hughman]

There oughta be some useful gate designs that can be easily made.

Somebody here has done this?

[Hughman]

There oughta be some useful gate designs that can be easily made.

Somebody here has done this?

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

The LV ones are only 8 buck canuck... so it's not the end of the world. I just put this montstrosity together tonight. It's a serious air maker... CFM as opposed to water lift. It's gonna work really well. I thought about making gates, but at the LV price, I will probably just buy them.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

The LV ones are only 8 buck canuck... so it's not the end of the world. I just put this montstrosity together tonight. It's a serious air maker... CFM as opposed to water lift. It's gonna work really well. I thought about making gates, but at the LV price, I will probably just buy them.

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

The LV ones are only 8 buck canuck... so it's not the end of the world. I just put this montstrosity together tonight. It's a serious air maker... CFM as opposed to water lift. It's gonna work really well. I thought about making gates, but at the LV price, I will probably just buy them.

[Barry]

I Like this set up and it's cordless too. http://www.woodworking.org/WC/UncleFester/Images/11DC_m.jpg

[Barry]

I Like this set up and it's cordless too. http://www.woodworking.org/WC/UncleFester/Images/11DC_m.jpg

[Barry]

I Like this set up and it's cordless too. http://www.woodworking.org/WC/UncleFester/Images/11DC_m.jpg