bamboo shroud covers/protectors

[uncas]

Have only seen these on a few boats...Anyone know where I can get them?
uncas

[uncas]

Have only seen these on a few boats...Anyone know where I can get them?
uncas

[uncas]

Have only seen these on a few boats...Anyone know where I can get them?
uncas

[Ian McColgin]

These are fairly expensive and you'll be far better off making your own.

If you go with ash - really not much more work even though you'll have to round it - start with stock a saw's kerf wider than thick and a bit over length. This will allow you to cut it long ways and still end up with a square section. Before you cut, eight side it using the guage describe in other threads. Even though two sides are a tad longer, it will work out just fine with the guage.

Then slice it resting the remains of one long face on the table and a short on the fence.

Next kerf out a slot on the inside mating survaces large enough for your shrouds. It need not be round but if you do it with a router it can be easily enough.

Put the pieces back together tack gluing them at the ends. Moving the clamps and vices a lot, carefully round the unit. Inset space for five (or any number you like) frappings. Cut off the glued ends and presto.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

These are fairly expensive and you'll be far better off making your own.

If you go with ash - really not much more work even though you'll have to round it - start with stock a saw's kerf wider than thick and a bit over length. This will allow you to cut it long ways and still end up with a square section. Before you cut, eight side it using the guage describe in other threads. Even though two sides are a tad longer, it will work out just fine with the guage.

Then slice it resting the remains of one long face on the table and a short on the fence.

Next kerf out a slot on the inside mating survaces large enough for your shrouds. It need not be round but if you do it with a router it can be easily enough.

Put the pieces back together tack gluing them at the ends. Moving the clamps and vices a lot, carefully round the unit. Inset space for five (or any number you like) frappings. Cut off the glued ends and presto.

G'luck

[Ian McColgin]

These are fairly expensive and you'll be far better off making your own.

If you go with ash - really not much more work even though you'll have to round it - start with stock a saw's kerf wider than thick and a bit over length. This will allow you to cut it long ways and still end up with a square section. Before you cut, eight side it using the guage describe in other threads. Even though two sides are a tad longer, it will work out just fine with the guage.

Then slice it resting the remains of one long face on the table and a short on the fence.

Next kerf out a slot on the inside mating survaces large enough for your shrouds. It need not be round but if you do it with a router it can be easily enough.

Put the pieces back together tack gluing them at the ends. Moving the clamps and vices a lot, carefully round the unit. Inset space for five (or any number you like) frappings. Cut off the glued ends and presto.

G'luck

[uncas]

Thanks Ian for the info and instructions...makes sense...I figured the bamboo would be EXPENSIVE...was just a thought as I have never seen them in any cat. :D
jamj

[uncas]

Thanks Ian for the info and instructions...makes sense...I figured the bamboo would be EXPENSIVE...was just a thought as I have never seen them in any cat. :D
jamj

[uncas]

Thanks Ian for the info and instructions...makes sense...I figured the bamboo would be EXPENSIVE...was just a thought as I have never seen them in any cat. :D
jamj

[Bruce Hooke]

What about using a router to round over the pieces? The radius is small enough so that the router bit would not need to be overly large. A router table would be essential.

[Bruce Hooke]

What about using a router to round over the pieces? The radius is small enough so that the router bit would not need to be overly large. A router table would be essential.

[Bruce Hooke]

What about using a router to round over the pieces? The radius is small enough so that the router bit would not need to be overly large. A router table would be essential.

[Ian McColgin]

Different boats, different long splices.

I like the eight-siding guage - the 7-10-7 - as it lets you make an accurate job even with two of the original four faces being long.

I am not good with a lot of power tools - living afloat most of my tools are human power anyway - so I find it more comfortable for little jobs like this to just plane the corners off.

People who have seen way too much Norm Abrams might be able to knock them off with a table saw but to me the control and safety of a plane are huge advantages and by the time I get finished screwing around getting the fence in the right place, making a new pushe stick as I can't find the regular one, getting the blade at a true 45, allowing the correct side for the kerf -- it's just plain faster to use a bit of scottish steam.

Unless you have a very big router bit, it's not going to come out round in the end and the last couple of router runs will be very hard to control. Also, the router will not be usable at all after the stock is split and you need to do that before the final rounding to take out the kerf.

[Ian McColgin]

Different boats, different long splices.

I like the eight-siding guage - the 7-10-7 - as it lets you make an accurate job even with two of the original four faces being long.

I am not good with a lot of power tools - living afloat most of my tools are human power anyway - so I find it more comfortable for little jobs like this to just plane the corners off.

People who have seen way too much Norm Abrams might be able to knock them off with a table saw but to me the control and safety of a plane are huge advantages and by the time I get finished screwing around getting the fence in the right place, making a new pushe stick as I can't find the regular one, getting the blade at a true 45, allowing the correct side for the kerf -- it's just plain faster to use a bit of scottish steam.

Unless you have a very big router bit, it's not going to come out round in the end and the last couple of router runs will be very hard to control. Also, the router will not be usable at all after the stock is split and you need to do that before the final rounding to take out the kerf.

[Ian McColgin]

Different boats, different long splices.

I like the eight-siding guage - the 7-10-7 - as it lets you make an accurate job even with two of the original four faces being long.

I am not good with a lot of power tools - living afloat most of my tools are human power anyway - so I find it more comfortable for little jobs like this to just plane the corners off.

People who have seen way too much Norm Abrams might be able to knock them off with a table saw but to me the control and safety of a plane are huge advantages and by the time I get finished screwing around getting the fence in the right place, making a new pushe stick as I can't find the regular one, getting the blade at a true 45, allowing the correct side for the kerf -- it's just plain faster to use a bit of scottish steam.

Unless you have a very big router bit, it's not going to come out round in the end and the last couple of router runs will be very hard to control. Also, the router will not be usable at all after the stock is split and you need to do that before the final rounding to take out the kerf.

[MJC]

uncas: length? interior/exterior diameter? quantity?

You could probably find bamboo growing wild in Maryland, but I have a bunch drying in the storage unit.

[MJC]

uncas: length? interior/exterior diameter? quantity?

You could probably find bamboo growing wild in Maryland, but I have a bunch drying in the storage unit.

[MJC]

uncas: length? interior/exterior diameter? quantity?

You could probably find bamboo growing wild in Maryland, but I have a bunch drying in the storage unit.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, different shops & different methods! I would probably leave the stick rectangular while I cut it in half and hollowed out the interior. Then I would use the fence on the router table to set the distance from the router bit (rather than counting on the guide bearing, which on the second pass would have nothing to ride on) and then use one or two feather boards to keep the stock running true. The hand method would also work just fine -- it mostly depends on what your shop setup is like and what you are most comfortable with. I haven't seen more than an hour or two of Norm Abrams in my life but I did spend some time earning my living as a carpenter and in that trade we were always being pushed to use power tools efficiently to get the job done sooner.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, different shops & different methods! I would probably leave the stick rectangular while I cut it in half and hollowed out the interior. Then I would use the fence on the router table to set the distance from the router bit (rather than counting on the guide bearing, which on the second pass would have nothing to ride on) and then use one or two feather boards to keep the stock running true. The hand method would also work just fine -- it mostly depends on what your shop setup is like and what you are most comfortable with. I haven't seen more than an hour or two of Norm Abrams in my life but I did spend some time earning my living as a carpenter and in that trade we were always being pushed to use power tools efficiently to get the job done sooner.

[Bruce Hooke]

Yup, different shops & different methods! I would probably leave the stick rectangular while I cut it in half and hollowed out the interior. Then I would use the fence on the router table to set the distance from the router bit (rather than counting on the guide bearing, which on the second pass would have nothing to ride on) and then use one or two feather boards to keep the stock running true. The hand method would also work just fine -- it mostly depends on what your shop setup is like and what you are most comfortable with. I haven't seen more than an hour or two of Norm Abrams in my life but I did spend some time earning my living as a carpenter and in that trade we were always being pushed to use power tools efficiently to get the job done sooner.

[uncas]

MJC
Don't know the length exactly...or the width for that matter. Mast has not been stepped ( March 20th I hope )hence the shrouds are not in place. Will take measurements when everything is back in place. Am guessing 2.5" dia.(exterior ) ( to go over the turn buckle ) 6.0' long...Need four.
If you have ever had to deal with businesses on the Eastern Shore...Well, plan ahead, get the requests in early ( give the businesses an earlier date ) and hope that everything is in place when you want the items to be there.
Hoping to leave the slip the 10th of April. Am telling everyone I want to leave the 1st of April...I may actually get off when I want to by doing this.
uncas

[ 02-10-2005, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[uncas]

MJC
Don't know the length exactly...or the width for that matter. Mast has not been stepped ( March 20th I hope )hence the shrouds are not in place. Will take measurements when everything is back in place. Am guessing 2.5" dia.(exterior ) ( to go over the turn buckle ) 6.0' long...Need four.
If you have ever had to deal with businesses on the Eastern Shore...Well, plan ahead, get the requests in early ( give the businesses an earlier date ) and hope that everything is in place when you want the items to be there.
Hoping to leave the slip the 10th of April. Am telling everyone I want to leave the 1st of April...I may actually get off when I want to by doing this.
uncas

[ 02-10-2005, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[uncas]

MJC
Don't know the length exactly...or the width for that matter. Mast has not been stepped ( March 20th I hope )hence the shrouds are not in place. Will take measurements when everything is back in place. Am guessing 2.5" dia.(exterior ) ( to go over the turn buckle ) 6.0' long...Need four.
If you have ever had to deal with businesses on the Eastern Shore...Well, plan ahead, get the requests in early ( give the businesses an earlier date ) and hope that everything is in place when you want the items to be there.
Hoping to leave the slip the 10th of April. Am telling everyone I want to leave the 1st of April...I may actually get off when I want to by doing this.
uncas

[ 02-10-2005, 10:14 AM: Message edited by: uncas ]

[Bruce Hooke]

Well, the versions of this concept that I have seen before have been more like half that diameter. A 1-1/4" radius roundover bit is pretty big and expensive so for that size I might go back to eight-siding and hand shaping.

[Bruce Hooke]

Well, the versions of this concept that I have seen before have been more like half that diameter. A 1-1/4" radius roundover bit is pretty big and expensive so for that size I might go back to eight-siding and hand shaping.

[Bruce Hooke]

Well, the versions of this concept that I have seen before have been more like half that diameter. A 1-1/4" radius roundover bit is pretty big and expensive so for that size I might go back to eight-siding and hand shaping.