Custom Boat Covers / Boat Protection

[Don Maurer]

I am looking for recommendations for companies who will make a custom boat cover for an Iain Oughtred traditional sailing dinghy. I expect to trailer this boat on 1,000 to 2,000 mile road trips once or twice a year. Any advice to help the boat and cover withstand that kind of abuse would be appreciated.

[Don Maurer]

I am looking for recommendations for companies who will make a custom boat cover for an Iain Oughtred traditional sailing dinghy. I expect to trailer this boat on 1,000 to 2,000 mile road trips once or twice a year. Any advice to help the boat and cover withstand that kind of abuse would be appreciated.

[Don Maurer]

I am looking for recommendations for companies who will make a custom boat cover for an Iain Oughtred traditional sailing dinghy. I expect to trailer this boat on 1,000 to 2,000 mile road trips once or twice a year. Any advice to help the boat and cover withstand that kind of abuse would be appreciated.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The keys to long term road trip survival for covers are proper fit and proper reinforcement. A loose or flapping cover will self-destruct and may also chafe the boat. As one who used to make boat covers for clients, I can tell you that it's really tough to make a great fitting cover long distance. Custom covers take a lot of on-the boat tweeking to really fit well. I suggest that you have it made at a shop that's local enough that you can take the boat there, on the trailer and leave it there until the cover is done. That way, there should be no questions about fit and no areas that should have been reinforced, but didn't end-up that way. Mailing off a few measurements and expecting the cover that comes back to withstand 2,000 miles at 60 m.p.h. is pretty risky.

Sunbrella is probably the fabric of choice - with hot-cut, serged or bound raw edges. I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.

Any place the Sunbrella is pulled tightly over a sharp edge or corner, it needs to be reinforced on the inside with patches of a different fabric like Top Gun (polyester) or one of those vinyl-coated nylon truck tarp-type fabrics. Heavy Dacron sailcloth also works. The Sunbrella breathes and resists U.V. extremely well, but won't take much direct abrasion, so other fabrics need to be placed between the Sunbrella and any sharp corners, cleats, etc. You'll probably need bows or "tent-pole-type" struts to peak-up the top and prevent water pooling and keep the top tight enough that it doesn't flap in the wind. They, too, can chafe and their attachment points need reinforcement.

Thread should be either polyester "anti-wick", size V-92 or better and if they have the option of using Tenara (Gore-Tex) thread, it's probably worth the extra money. No nylon thread! It rots too fast. The Sunbrella fabric will last about twice as long as the polyester thread, so after about 4-5 years in moderate climates (less in places like Florida) the cover will need some stitching repair. The Gore-Tex thread, on the other hand, will last quite a bit longet than even Sunbrella with little or no loss of strength. It costs about $50 per spool, so don't be surprised if it adds a fair amount to the price.

Avoid Velcro if possible, as it's not really secure enough for high-speed trailering and it looses 1/2 of it's grip when wet. Use nickel-plated brass hardware (most of it is) and any zippers should be #10 Delrin tooth zippers (big suckers) with polyester tapes, not nylon (rots). Blast the cover once a year with a flourocarbon water repeller like 3-M Fabric Guard - not Scotchbrite, Rain Ban or any silicone type of spray as they aren't compatable with what's already on the fabric.

Other than that, there's not much to making a simple boat cover! Now you know why I got out of the cover business - I'm so picky that I probably lost money on every one I ever built, but any top notch cover builder will generally say "We already do all that stuff". If they don't, check elsewhere.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The keys to long term road trip survival for covers are proper fit and proper reinforcement. A loose or flapping cover will self-destruct and may also chafe the boat. As one who used to make boat covers for clients, I can tell you that it's really tough to make a great fitting cover long distance. Custom covers take a lot of on-the boat tweeking to really fit well. I suggest that you have it made at a shop that's local enough that you can take the boat there, on the trailer and leave it there until the cover is done. That way, there should be no questions about fit and no areas that should have been reinforced, but didn't end-up that way. Mailing off a few measurements and expecting the cover that comes back to withstand 2,000 miles at 60 m.p.h. is pretty risky.

Sunbrella is probably the fabric of choice - with hot-cut, serged or bound raw edges. I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.

Any place the Sunbrella is pulled tightly over a sharp edge or corner, it needs to be reinforced on the inside with patches of a different fabric like Top Gun (polyester) or one of those vinyl-coated nylon truck tarp-type fabrics. Heavy Dacron sailcloth also works. The Sunbrella breathes and resists U.V. extremely well, but won't take much direct abrasion, so other fabrics need to be placed between the Sunbrella and any sharp corners, cleats, etc. You'll probably need bows or "tent-pole-type" struts to peak-up the top and prevent water pooling and keep the top tight enough that it doesn't flap in the wind. They, too, can chafe and their attachment points need reinforcement.

Thread should be either polyester "anti-wick", size V-92 or better and if they have the option of using Tenara (Gore-Tex) thread, it's probably worth the extra money. No nylon thread! It rots too fast. The Sunbrella fabric will last about twice as long as the polyester thread, so after about 4-5 years in moderate climates (less in places like Florida) the cover will need some stitching repair. The Gore-Tex thread, on the other hand, will last quite a bit longet than even Sunbrella with little or no loss of strength. It costs about $50 per spool, so don't be surprised if it adds a fair amount to the price.

Avoid Velcro if possible, as it's not really secure enough for high-speed trailering and it looses 1/2 of it's grip when wet. Use nickel-plated brass hardware (most of it is) and any zippers should be #10 Delrin tooth zippers (big suckers) with polyester tapes, not nylon (rots). Blast the cover once a year with a flourocarbon water repeller like 3-M Fabric Guard - not Scotchbrite, Rain Ban or any silicone type of spray as they aren't compatable with what's already on the fabric.

Other than that, there's not much to making a simple boat cover! Now you know why I got out of the cover business - I'm so picky that I probably lost money on every one I ever built, but any top notch cover builder will generally say "We already do all that stuff". If they don't, check elsewhere.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The keys to long term road trip survival for covers are proper fit and proper reinforcement. A loose or flapping cover will self-destruct and may also chafe the boat. As one who used to make boat covers for clients, I can tell you that it's really tough to make a great fitting cover long distance. Custom covers take a lot of on-the boat tweeking to really fit well. I suggest that you have it made at a shop that's local enough that you can take the boat there, on the trailer and leave it there until the cover is done. That way, there should be no questions about fit and no areas that should have been reinforced, but didn't end-up that way. Mailing off a few measurements and expecting the cover that comes back to withstand 2,000 miles at 60 m.p.h. is pretty risky.

Sunbrella is probably the fabric of choice - with hot-cut, serged or bound raw edges. I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.

Any place the Sunbrella is pulled tightly over a sharp edge or corner, it needs to be reinforced on the inside with patches of a different fabric like Top Gun (polyester) or one of those vinyl-coated nylon truck tarp-type fabrics. Heavy Dacron sailcloth also works. The Sunbrella breathes and resists U.V. extremely well, but won't take much direct abrasion, so other fabrics need to be placed between the Sunbrella and any sharp corners, cleats, etc. You'll probably need bows or "tent-pole-type" struts to peak-up the top and prevent water pooling and keep the top tight enough that it doesn't flap in the wind. They, too, can chafe and their attachment points need reinforcement.

Thread should be either polyester "anti-wick", size V-92 or better and if they have the option of using Tenara (Gore-Tex) thread, it's probably worth the extra money. No nylon thread! It rots too fast. The Sunbrella fabric will last about twice as long as the polyester thread, so after about 4-5 years in moderate climates (less in places like Florida) the cover will need some stitching repair. The Gore-Tex thread, on the other hand, will last quite a bit longet than even Sunbrella with little or no loss of strength. It costs about $50 per spool, so don't be surprised if it adds a fair amount to the price.

Avoid Velcro if possible, as it's not really secure enough for high-speed trailering and it looses 1/2 of it's grip when wet. Use nickel-plated brass hardware (most of it is) and any zippers should be #10 Delrin tooth zippers (big suckers) with polyester tapes, not nylon (rots). Blast the cover once a year with a flourocarbon water repeller like 3-M Fabric Guard - not Scotchbrite, Rain Ban or any silicone type of spray as they aren't compatable with what's already on the fabric.

Other than that, there's not much to making a simple boat cover! Now you know why I got out of the cover business - I'm so picky that I probably lost money on every one I ever built, but any top notch cover builder will generally say "We already do all that stuff". If they don't, check elsewhere.

[Don Maurer]

Todd, My wife says "Thanks. You got me off the hook." I was trying to talk her into making a simple cover. From your post it is obviously more involved than either of us thought. We will definitely go with one from a professional cover maker. Thanks to your post, I have some things to ask the builder for. Thanks for the info.

[Don Maurer]

Todd, My wife says "Thanks. You got me off the hook." I was trying to talk her into making a simple cover. From your post it is obviously more involved than either of us thought. We will definitely go with one from a professional cover maker. Thanks to your post, I have some things to ask the builder for. Thanks for the info.

[Don Maurer]

Todd, My wife says "Thanks. You got me off the hook." I was trying to talk her into making a simple cover. From your post it is obviously more involved than either of us thought. We will definitely go with one from a professional cover maker. Thanks to your post, I have some things to ask the builder for. Thanks for the info.

[Todd Schliemann]

Originally posted by Todd Bradshaw:
[B]I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.
B]

Not so fast Todd. I've got one of those. Had it six winters now covering my 34' sloop during in-the-water storage. Full boat cover over a frame, down to the water line, and sometimes IN the water. It has held up very well. The sun has paled it but no deterioration. It gets dirty to be sure but it gets a bath each spring. Surprisingly resilient. I understand that they used to soak them in mercury to make them last forever. That's not an option now but I expect a few more years out of mine.


Course I wouldn't put it on a trailered boat doin' highway miles.

Fair winds.

[Todd Schliemann]

Originally posted by Todd Bradshaw:
[B]I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.
B]

Not so fast Todd. I've got one of those. Had it six winters now covering my 34' sloop during in-the-water storage. Full boat cover over a frame, down to the water line, and sometimes IN the water. It has held up very well. The sun has paled it but no deterioration. It gets dirty to be sure but it gets a bath each spring. Surprisingly resilient. I understand that they used to soak them in mercury to make them last forever. That's not an option now but I expect a few more years out of mine.


Course I wouldn't put it on a trailered boat doin' highway miles.

Fair winds.

[Todd Schliemann]

Originally posted by Todd Bradshaw:
[B]I refuse to build covers from that light green, cotton boat cover canvas because two years later they look so bad and fit so badly from shrinking, stretching and mold that I don't want my label on them.
B]

Not so fast Todd. I've got one of those. Had it six winters now covering my 34' sloop during in-the-water storage. Full boat cover over a frame, down to the water line, and sometimes IN the water. It has held up very well. The sun has paled it but no deterioration. It gets dirty to be sure but it gets a bath each spring. Surprisingly resilient. I understand that they used to soak them in mercury to make them last forever. That's not an option now but I expect a few more years out of mine.


Course I wouldn't put it on a trailered boat doin' highway miles.

Fair winds.

[Todd Bradshaw]

These days, they treat the cotton canvas with Arsenic instead. Think about that the next time you wrestle the cover on and then eat a sandwich... Cotton canvas is more abrasion resistant than acrylic (Sunbrella) and sometimes requires a little bit less in the way of chafe protection but be that as it may, there just is no question that acrylic and polyester cover fabrics last longer. They don't rot from water, they are much more U.V resistant and much more dimensionally stable in the long run. They also don't get quite as nasty looking with age and come in better colors than that washed-out green (though they make Sunbrella in that, too, if you really want it).

I'm talking about a high-end boat cover here that makes no compromises and may well have a couple hundred bucks or more worth of labor in it. It would be crazy to build it from lesser fabric. If you figure that the wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 and on the green cotton canvas is about $3.70 and it takes about 13 sq. yards of fabric to build a full cover for a 14'long by 5' beam by 2' deep sailing dinghy with a 4'wide transom, you only save $33.15 in materials going with the cheaper fabric. Even if the builder adds a mark-up to the fabric price (which usually isn't much if he wants to be competitive)you still pay the same price for all that labor and you get to repeat the process (and the expense)a lot sooner because the cotton will only last 50%-60% as long as the synthetic. There is a reason why 95% of the boat and sail covers, awnings, dodgers, winch boots, etc.in your average marina are made from synthetic fabric - even though it costs more to use.

Also be aware that fading on fabrics like colored cotton, nylon and Dacron (even acrylic, though it happens a lot slower) is more than just cosmetic.It is a sure sign that it is losing strength every day that it sits out in the sun and all you need to do to prove it is to do a tear test with two pieces of scrap, one old and one new. Keeping the fabric treated with the appropriate stuff will help protect and restore it to a certain extent as most of the treatments have some sort of U.V. filter in them, but you just can't stop it. In the long run, it's lifespan is directly linked to the fiber's native resistance to the elements.

[This message has been edited by Todd Bradshaw (edited 02-08-2002).]

[Todd Bradshaw]

These days, they treat the cotton canvas with Arsenic instead. Think about that the next time you wrestle the cover on and then eat a sandwich... Cotton canvas is more abrasion resistant than acrylic (Sunbrella) and sometimes requires a little bit less in the way of chafe protection but be that as it may, there just is no question that acrylic and polyester cover fabrics last longer. They don't rot from water, they are much more U.V resistant and much more dimensionally stable in the long run. They also don't get quite as nasty looking with age and come in better colors than that washed-out green (though they make Sunbrella in that, too, if you really want it).

I'm talking about a high-end boat cover here that makes no compromises and may well have a couple hundred bucks or more worth of labor in it. It would be crazy to build it from lesser fabric. If you figure that the wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 and on the green cotton canvas is about $3.70 and it takes about 13 sq. yards of fabric to build a full cover for a 14'long by 5' beam by 2' deep sailing dinghy with a 4'wide transom, you only save $33.15 in materials going with the cheaper fabric. Even if the builder adds a mark-up to the fabric price (which usually isn't much if he wants to be competitive)you still pay the same price for all that labor and you get to repeat the process (and the expense)a lot sooner because the cotton will only last 50%-60% as long as the synthetic. There is a reason why 95% of the boat and sail covers, awnings, dodgers, winch boots, etc.in your average marina are made from synthetic fabric - even though it costs more to use.

Also be aware that fading on fabrics like colored cotton, nylon and Dacron (even acrylic, though it happens a lot slower) is more than just cosmetic.It is a sure sign that it is losing strength every day that it sits out in the sun and all you need to do to prove it is to do a tear test with two pieces of scrap, one old and one new. Keeping the fabric treated with the appropriate stuff will help protect and restore it to a certain extent as most of the treatments have some sort of U.V. filter in them, but you just can't stop it. In the long run, it's lifespan is directly linked to the fiber's native resistance to the elements.

[This message has been edited by Todd Bradshaw (edited 02-08-2002).]

[Todd Bradshaw]

These days, they treat the cotton canvas with Arsenic instead. Think about that the next time you wrestle the cover on and then eat a sandwich... Cotton canvas is more abrasion resistant than acrylic (Sunbrella) and sometimes requires a little bit less in the way of chafe protection but be that as it may, there just is no question that acrylic and polyester cover fabrics last longer. They don't rot from water, they are much more U.V resistant and much more dimensionally stable in the long run. They also don't get quite as nasty looking with age and come in better colors than that washed-out green (though they make Sunbrella in that, too, if you really want it).

I'm talking about a high-end boat cover here that makes no compromises and may well have a couple hundred bucks or more worth of labor in it. It would be crazy to build it from lesser fabric. If you figure that the wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 and on the green cotton canvas is about $3.70 and it takes about 13 sq. yards of fabric to build a full cover for a 14'long by 5' beam by 2' deep sailing dinghy with a 4'wide transom, you only save $33.15 in materials going with the cheaper fabric. Even if the builder adds a mark-up to the fabric price (which usually isn't much if he wants to be competitive)you still pay the same price for all that labor and you get to repeat the process (and the expense)a lot sooner because the cotton will only last 50%-60% as long as the synthetic. There is a reason why 95% of the boat and sail covers, awnings, dodgers, winch boots, etc.in your average marina are made from synthetic fabric - even though it costs more to use.

Also be aware that fading on fabrics like colored cotton, nylon and Dacron (even acrylic, though it happens a lot slower) is more than just cosmetic.It is a sure sign that it is losing strength every day that it sits out in the sun and all you need to do to prove it is to do a tear test with two pieces of scrap, one old and one new. Keeping the fabric treated with the appropriate stuff will help protect and restore it to a certain extent as most of the treatments have some sort of U.V. filter in them, but you just can't stop it. In the long run, it's lifespan is directly linked to the fiber's native resistance to the elements.

[This message has been edited by Todd Bradshaw (edited 02-08-2002).]

[NormMessinger]

Holy moly! wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 There is one heck of a markup on that stuff around here and from Sailrite, etc. Anybody know where a cut rate supplier might be found?

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Holy moly! wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 There is one heck of a markup on that stuff around here and from Sailrite, etc. Anybody know where a cut rate supplier might be found?

--Norm

[NormMessinger]

Holy moly! wholesale price on a square yard of Sunbrella is about $6.25 There is one heck of a markup on that stuff around here and from Sailrite, etc. Anybody know where a cut rate supplier might be found?

--Norm

[Todd Bradshaw]

Wholesale for 46" wide Sunbrella is about $8.50 per running yard and the 60" stuff is around $11 - which comes out to about $6.25 per sq. yd. The places that retail boat and sail fabrics generally put a pretty healthy mark-up on them. On the other hand, the retail price of a typical Sailrite kit is quite reasonable and the materials aren't marked-up much at all. There have been times when I've figured out materials costs for sails at wholesale, added them up and found that Sailrite's retail kit price, for the same sail, is not much more than I'd pay for the materials at wholesale. In some cases, if they stocked the fabric that I use, I'd just call Jeff and have a kit plotted. Sure beats crawling around on your knees with battens and strings laying out the design on the floor.

You could check places like Defender, but I don't know what they get for Sunbrella.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Wholesale for 46" wide Sunbrella is about $8.50 per running yard and the 60" stuff is around $11 - which comes out to about $6.25 per sq. yd. The places that retail boat and sail fabrics generally put a pretty healthy mark-up on them. On the other hand, the retail price of a typical Sailrite kit is quite reasonable and the materials aren't marked-up much at all. There have been times when I've figured out materials costs for sails at wholesale, added them up and found that Sailrite's retail kit price, for the same sail, is not much more than I'd pay for the materials at wholesale. In some cases, if they stocked the fabric that I use, I'd just call Jeff and have a kit plotted. Sure beats crawling around on your knees with battens and strings laying out the design on the floor.

You could check places like Defender, but I don't know what they get for Sunbrella.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Wholesale for 46" wide Sunbrella is about $8.50 per running yard and the 60" stuff is around $11 - which comes out to about $6.25 per sq. yd. The places that retail boat and sail fabrics generally put a pretty healthy mark-up on them. On the other hand, the retail price of a typical Sailrite kit is quite reasonable and the materials aren't marked-up much at all. There have been times when I've figured out materials costs for sails at wholesale, added them up and found that Sailrite's retail kit price, for the same sail, is not much more than I'd pay for the materials at wholesale. In some cases, if they stocked the fabric that I use, I'd just call Jeff and have a kit plotted. Sure beats crawling around on your knees with battens and strings laying out the design on the floor.

You could check places like Defender, but I don't know what they get for Sunbrella.

[Todd Schliemann]

Good points Todd. But I got it now and I'm gonna make it last.

The color thing. I really like that pale green, vintage canvas color. Sunbrella's color palette seems to be primarily aimed at the louder f****** set, except for the "whites." They have a new color called "Aspen" that approximates the cotton but generally as a rule the colors are quite saturated. Also you're right, it takes too long to pale them out in the sun to get them a little less loud.

[Todd Schliemann]

Good points Todd. But I got it now and I'm gonna make it last.

The color thing. I really like that pale green, vintage canvas color. Sunbrella's color palette seems to be primarily aimed at the louder f****** set, except for the "whites." They have a new color called "Aspen" that approximates the cotton but generally as a rule the colors are quite saturated. Also you're right, it takes too long to pale them out in the sun to get them a little less loud.

[Todd Schliemann]

Good points Todd. But I got it now and I'm gonna make it last.

The color thing. I really like that pale green, vintage canvas color. Sunbrella's color palette seems to be primarily aimed at the louder f****** set, except for the "whites." They have a new color called "Aspen" that approximates the cotton but generally as a rule the colors are quite saturated. Also you're right, it takes too long to pale them out in the sun to get them a little less loud.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Next time you buy a cover, see if you can get your hands on a Glen Raven Mills color swatch card for Sunbrella. In addition to the bright colors that we're all used to seeing, they also make about ten muted colors like "linen", "mocha", "terra cotta","oyster" and "toast" that are very classy looking fabrics on a wooden boat along with about eight different shades of brown. No reason to settle for bright colors if you don't like them.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Next time you buy a cover, see if you can get your hands on a Glen Raven Mills color swatch card for Sunbrella. In addition to the bright colors that we're all used to seeing, they also make about ten muted colors like "linen", "mocha", "terra cotta","oyster" and "toast" that are very classy looking fabrics on a wooden boat along with about eight different shades of brown. No reason to settle for bright colors if you don't like them.

[Todd Bradshaw]

Next time you buy a cover, see if you can get your hands on a Glen Raven Mills color swatch card for Sunbrella. In addition to the bright colors that we're all used to seeing, they also make about ten muted colors like "linen", "mocha", "terra cotta","oyster" and "toast" that are very classy looking fabrics on a wooden boat along with about eight different shades of brown. No reason to settle for bright colors if you don't like them.

[Don Maurer]

Considering the potential for chafing on a long highway trip, are you better off travelling without the cover? In either case, I would unlace the sail and remove or secure anything that can move.

[Don Maurer]

Considering the potential for chafing on a long highway trip, are you better off travelling without the cover? In either case, I would unlace the sail and remove or secure anything that can move.

[Don Maurer]

Considering the potential for chafing on a long highway trip, are you better off travelling without the cover? In either case, I would unlace the sail and remove or secure anything that can move.

[gert]

I too plan on trailering a painted hull. What about the bottom of the boat, how can that be protected? Are those grass skirts across the back of the truck sufficient? I was looking at trailers at the plastic boat show and am not too impressed by little boat trailers; I'm almost tempted to put her in a box.

[gert]

I too plan on trailering a painted hull. What about the bottom of the boat, how can that be protected? Are those grass skirts across the back of the truck sufficient? I was looking at trailers at the plastic boat show and am not too impressed by little boat trailers; I'm almost tempted to put her in a box.

[gert]

I too plan on trailering a painted hull. What about the bottom of the boat, how can that be protected? Are those grass skirts across the back of the truck sufficient? I was looking at trailers at the plastic boat show and am not too impressed by little boat trailers; I'm almost tempted to put her in a box.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The hotshots in the Star Class used to wipe down the hull with a fairly heavy layer of liquid soap and let it dry on the hull and keel before a long road trip. Then, when they got to the race location, they would hose down the boat, removing the soap and the road dirt in one shot. Obviously, it's bad form to just roll down the ramp and drop a soap covered boat into the lake without rinsing it first and it can be pretty funny if you get into a heavy rainstorm while trailering.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The hotshots in the Star Class used to wipe down the hull with a fairly heavy layer of liquid soap and let it dry on the hull and keel before a long road trip. Then, when they got to the race location, they would hose down the boat, removing the soap and the road dirt in one shot. Obviously, it's bad form to just roll down the ramp and drop a soap covered boat into the lake without rinsing it first and it can be pretty funny if you get into a heavy rainstorm while trailering.

[Todd Bradshaw]

The hotshots in the Star Class used to wipe down the hull with a fairly heavy layer of liquid soap and let it dry on the hull and keel before a long road trip. Then, when they got to the race location, they would hose down the boat, removing the soap and the road dirt in one shot. Obviously, it's bad form to just roll down the ramp and drop a soap covered boat into the lake without rinsing it first and it can be pretty funny if you get into a heavy rainstorm while trailering.

[Art Read]

How much does getting a small boat sealed up with that shrink-wrap plastic stuff cost? I'd be tempted to try that for highway hauling and save the custom cover for storage. (Or maybe put the shrink-wrap right over the cover?) Other than pretecting her from road grime and debris, a cover should protect her from the drying effect of high speed, no? I would think even a well fitted "canvas" cover is going to be pretty "drafty". Perhaps they have "do-it-yourself" kits for that stuff? You certainly wouldn't want to leave it on for any longer than it takes to get her there, but we're only talking about doing it twice a season, right?

[Art Read]

How much does getting a small boat sealed up with that shrink-wrap plastic stuff cost? I'd be tempted to try that for highway hauling and save the custom cover for storage. (Or maybe put the shrink-wrap right over the cover?) Other than pretecting her from road grime and debris, a cover should protect her from the drying effect of high speed, no? I would think even a well fitted "canvas" cover is going to be pretty "drafty". Perhaps they have "do-it-yourself" kits for that stuff? You certainly wouldn't want to leave it on for any longer than it takes to get her there, but we're only talking about doing it twice a season, right?

[Art Read]

How much does getting a small boat sealed up with that shrink-wrap plastic stuff cost? I'd be tempted to try that for highway hauling and save the custom cover for storage. (Or maybe put the shrink-wrap right over the cover?) Other than pretecting her from road grime and debris, a cover should protect her from the drying effect of high speed, no? I would think even a well fitted "canvas" cover is going to be pretty "drafty". Perhaps they have "do-it-yourself" kits for that stuff? You certainly wouldn't want to leave it on for any longer than it takes to get her there, but we're only talking about doing it twice a season, right?