CPES on Green White Oak?

[DanO]

I'm using CPES as a sealer for my honduran mahongany transom, and since I'm also fabricating the stem, forefoot, keel, gripe and sternpost out of fairly unseasoned white oak at around the same time, I'm tempted to slather a coat of CPES on the oak (later I'd apply red lead primer as kind of a "belt and suspenders" approach). I know from Art Read's posts that he used CPES under red lead, but I'm wondering if it makes sense to apply it to green white oak backbone members. I've had some disappointing results in the past with regular epoxy and white oak (actually kiln dried oak at that).

So let's see, green, white oak, red lead...sounds I'm making an Italian flag! Anyway, if anyone has thoughts on the wisdom of using CPES on unseasoned white oak, I'd appreciate hearing them.

Dan

[Venchka]

If the chemist were around (where has he been anyway?) he could tell us the exact reason why...

Smith & Co. say that any subsequent coating should be applied within 24-72 hours after applying CPES. I have no idea how well it will work on your oak, but to get maximum advantage apply the next stuff before the CPES sets up completely.

Call Smith & Co. and ask them about your wood.

[Art Read]

For what it's worth, way back in my foggy memory, I seem to recall a conversation with Steve Smith about CPES and green white oak. The jist, as I recall, was to do any steam bending BEFORE applying CPES. That's what I did with my frames anyway. But I also seem to recall slathering any CPES dregs I had to use up on any green white oak end grain where ever and when ever I saw it. Even if it was a piece that might eventualy go in the steamer or get painted later. A good sanding and a fresh coat of CPES followed by the finish as per the usual schedule and I couldn't tell the difference. And it DID seem to help the checking "in check"... ;)

[ 02-01-2004, 03:26 AM: Message edited by: Art Read ]

[Concordia..41]

There are probably more cost effective sealers, but the stock that I took the time to CPES is in noticibly better shape.

- M

[Ian McColgin]

I'd use good old fashioned shellack on endgrain to prevent checking. Easy on the tools and all that. After you steam and shpe a piece, then CPES.

I fail to see any reason to apply red lead over CPES on any exterior surface or any surface that will be otherwise finished, but red lead might be just the thing for coating down in the bilges and on the inside of the hull before you put down a ceiling.

Depends on the construction.

[DanO]

Just tried some CPES on the oak. Seemed to absorb it fine. I'll wait to see if any checks develop in the next couple of weeks before going further. I still have to cut the rabbet out, etc.

How 'bout those Patriots?

Dan