Imron Paint

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Can anyone give me advice on repainting over imron? Can I touch up with a brush? sorry to appear stunned, but I have never used imron before I bought this boat... :confused:

[capt jake]

Imron was originally developed as an aircraft paint by Dupont. I don't think that brushing it on would turn too well. :( It should be air applied and feathered in. Conrads are you out there?? He would know for sure.

[thechemist]

Imron is a two-component isocyanate-cured polyurethane, last time I looked. Sand the old paint with a medium or fine Scotchbrite pad to a dull finish, and any new paint of the same chemical nature should stick fine.

[imported_Conrad]

Hi- Chemist is correct, just scuff with either a red scotchbrite pad or sand (with some 320-400 grit paper), wipe with a bit of lacquer thinner, and apply. The stuff sticks extremely well. What it doesn't do is blend in to the old finish. Email me if you want some tricks. While you can certainly brush it into small repairs, it prefers to be sprayed. If you spray, be sure to wear a good vapor respirator- the stuff is toxic as hell, turning career painters into stumbling idiots. Not very popular these days.

[capt jake]

There you have it! the 2 people who know about it! Awesome! "stumbling Idiots", I am assuming you are NOT refering to me! LOL :D

[Carlsboats]

Worked for many years for DuPont, the maker of "Imron." It should be easy to do a touch up:
The finish is very hard and probably can be buffed
to blend (assuming you can hit the color match right on).
What they say about respirators is right, though. This and similar finishes can be very dangerous to your health if not used properly.
"Imron's" advantage, in my book, is its durability and shine. People use it for things like aircraft, tractor-trailers and community water towers, because it lasts so well. I refinished an airplane with "Imron" in 1981 (after somebody leased it and turned it upside down when landing). The rebuilt plane stayed outdoors 12 months a year for 10 years. Then I sold it. Cleaned and waxed,it looked almost as good as new.
"Imron" is a really good product. Only downside I know, other than the aforementioned health hazards, is that "Imron" may be more brittle than some competitive products such as "Awlgrip." Thus, I wouldn't recommend "Imron" for a wooden hull. (But then, I'm not too sure about "Awlgrip" for that use either.)

[Peter Malcolm Jardine]

Hey guys thanks for the help. Here is the rest of the story... 1963 Chris Connie that was imron'ed about ten years ago.. and the finish is remarkably good even now... but the boat was kept under cover.. and of course a pretty stable old mahogany hull. http:// But the eighty year old guy I bought it from scuffed in a couple of minor ways, and I would like to touch it up and get a couple of years out of it before I paint again... the gloss is still good once I started deoxidizing and buffing, but there is a couple of plank seams that have very slightly cracked through and some minor dings. Hey being a computer idiot, How do I show you a picture of the boat? Just picked it up, and brought it down the Trent Canal in the most beautiful fall weather imaginable..got some photooos

[Scott Rosen]

Assuming you could get a color match, Sterling two-part LPU would be compatible. Sterling is formulated to be brushable, and it's easy to apply, extremely durable. To do a repair, you could tape around the spot with 3M fine line tape and then buff in if necessary.

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