need advice-H-28

[kra]

going to put plywd over decks(after repairing)
and then epoxy/cloth decks
what would be the thinnest ply (to keep weight down) for covering deck(mahogany strip planked)appropriate and best way to fasten and what cloth would be best for covering deck?
(removed cabin to facilitate repairs and to better cover decks)
thanks for any suggestions
Randy http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid85/p69c167377334b03185c79be223c055a1/fab708ea.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid85/p41ffe95cc9a6bcd0c05506890ee3e311/fab7094e.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid85/pbce35c776e78c219cec51e9032944535/fab709d5.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid85/p74b073a9022ff9d07ed7168afecb7069/fab70a21.jpg

[Aramas]

What's the ply for? Are the strips glued or just nailed?

[Carl Applebaum]

Why are you covering the deck? Are the original deck planks rotten? Or are you just tired of leaks? The answer to this question will tell you what to do next. If there is a lot of rot in the deck, or there has been extensive leaking, you should consider removing the original decking completely. You might at least want to remove some pieces to check on the condition of the deck beams, carlins, and other framing. Except for the look of mahogany on your overhead, there's really no reason to keep it if it's deteriorated. It will actually be easier (as to fastenings) to lay on a new plywood deck directly on the beams, and you can paint the underside before fastening the panels down. You may end up with a stronger deck with less total weight. My guess is that if you proceed that way, two thicknesses of 3/8" marine ply, with staggered joints, will be appropriate. If you leave the old deck, you should probably go no thinner than 1/4" overlay. Be very careful to adhere it to the old deck--with epoxy, if the old decking has an appropriate surface, otherwise perhaps with polysulfide (even nastier to work with. Either way, make sure to lay lots of heavy weights on your lamination while it cures. Also, consider carefully not only how you detail your new covering at the carlins, but also at the outer edges of the deck. It looks like you haven't removed the toe rails; you should consider doing so.

As for cloth over, Dynel is often recommended, but is hard to find. Regular glass cloth works okay, too. Lay the cloth in epoxy.

The photos show a boat that has suffered serious neglect previously. Therefore, it would be wise to consider what else the deck leaks might have damaged: clamp and shelf, sheer strakes, deck beams, transom framing, upper end of the stem, cockpit framing.
I own an H-28 also, and underwent a major repair cycle about 8 years ago--also replaced the deck, and that revealed other problems caused by the leaky deck; so I ended up with some new deck beams, new hatches, some new hull planks, new transom framing, new transom, and various other odds and ends. My boat is a modified version, built in Japan in 1966: masthead rig, deck-stepped masts, slightly raised sheer, taller house with raised doghouse aft. I see that yours has at least the bigger house, though it's not the same as mine.

[Chris Coose]

All of what Carl said.
Dynel and epoxy leaves a nice nap for gription.
I do not know about avaliability these days.
I had to remove my toe rails to get a clean surface to finish.
I had good luck laying the dynel into first coat epoxy on plywood and wetting it again while all was still wet for a finish product. I think it is 15 years old now and not a sign of trouble.

[J. Labaree]

Not trying to push any company over another, but the only source for dynel I could find was Defender Marine in CT:

dynel at Defender (http://www.defenderus.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?keywords=dynel&frames=yes&store=yes&Submit1=Search)

Great stuff.

Hope you can keep the original deck, though. Nothing like that sprung pine decking with canvas set in white lead paste.

[kra]

thanks for responses
i definitely am going to remove toerails.
just not finished with that yet.
i know i have some rot in the deck at the transome and stem (both have been repaired before).
upper stem will need replacing and carlins and king beams around cabin will need repairing(laminated white oak, going to remove damaged layer and replace).i cannot find any other damage to beams (from sides or bottom visible)
the deck is rescourcenol glued and nailed and is not in bad shape really. it has a few holes knocked in it from hurricane damage , not rot.
glue seams are still tight. cockpit floor is in good shape too. will need to replace both sheer planks from storm damage.
would it make more sense to repair deck and cover with canvas? i have never installed canvas before
thanks,
Randy

[Chris Coose]

would it make more sense to repair deck and cover with canvas? i have never installed canvas before
From a traditionalists standpoint , probably.

What I like about my deck is that it is hard as nails and it requires very little maintenance. As a matter of fact, painting it too often would fill the weave and smooth it over.

[Aramas]

Since the strips are glued and seem to be in reasonably good shape, I don't see any point at all in adding a layer of ply. If you want to go traditional, canvas and paint is a good choice. Otherwise epoxy and fibreglass/dynel/whatever would probably be the most long lived solution. Do a forum search for 'deck covering' or somesuch to get an idea of the pros and cons of different fabrics.

You might also want to look into sealing it with CPES - but that's a whole other bag of worms tongue.gif

Oh yeah, just thought I'd add that it might save some heartbreak if you rather aggressively stick the underdeck structure with an awl/icepick. Who knows what horrors lurk betwixt beam and deck?

[ 10-29-2003, 03:51 AM: Message edited by: Aramas ]