sealing backbone timbers

[centroid]

howdy,
i'm going to be cutting my backbone white oak timbers soon for a 24' hess cutter.
i know i must be careful to treat the timbers as i work and as i build the boat since it will be at least a few years before she's done. so to prevent cracking and checking, i've heard kirby's red lead as one method. the other is to seal it completely in epoxy and then grind it off later.

what is the best method to prevent cracks and checks for timbers as you build ? i'm mean as i am cutting the timbers and after they've been bolted in position. i would like to varnish the exposed area inside.

[Paul Griffin]

Centroid

What a timely topic, I'm waiting to get my Oak for my 26' cutter. I'm ordering all my timber 1" over sized (sided, molded) and 6" longer then needed. My thought is that I will have choices as to were I position the templet before cutting. I will not be building the boat for a few years. (I don't have room yet)
Did you get you sizes for the timbers from your lofting, or from the material list provided with the plans. Did you notice much difference from the sizes on your loft floor to the sizes on the material list.

Paul

[Thaddeus J. Van Gilder]

I think the best way to got In my past experience is to coat with red lead and fill the inevitable checks (they always happen) with dolphinite.

[Rich VanValkenburg]

I used linseed oil and thinner, several coats, and re-coated everything as I progressed on the shape, rabbet, etc., and wrapped the piece in plastic. When I figured I was finished with my chisel, I put on several coats of thinned red lead. I thinned with linseed oil and turps. Then painted on a few unthinned coats of red lead. The process seems to work better in cold weather.

Rich

[Matt J.]

Varnishing exposed interior of timbers? as in visible, fully exposed in the salon / cabin? Not if they're under the sole... varnish ain't made for that. red lead is. hope I misread.

I did what Rich did. Linseed after cutting until finished, then red lead. works well.

Matt