Canoe Photos

[cs]

Finally got a decent camera and took some photos of the canoe. I've been trying to sand the inside so I can cover it in glass. The sanding is going slow but it is getting there.

http://a9.cpimg.com/image/A3/81/31795619-68fe-028001DF-.jpg

http://a0.cpimg.com/image/A4/81/31795620-00a9-028001DF-.jpg

http://a1.cpimg.com/image/A5/81/31795621-be27-028001DF-.jpg

Still looking for a spring launch, and even though spring is here I still hope to have it launched this spring.

Chad

[NormMessinger]

Satisfactory Archie.

[Domesticated_Mr. Know It All]

Wow! :eek:
Cool. :cool:

[L.W. Baxter]

The part that I really love is sanding up in the ends where the palm sander can't go. :rolleyes: My personal trick is one of those little surform planes you can handle like a spatula. You know the kind, with about a 2 inch square, rockered surface? I jam that up in there to get the major stuff.

Very attractive, Chad.

[cs]

I was wondering how to get up in there. I'll go out and find one of those. Got a photo of what they look like?

Chad

[essaunders]

My wee lassie II is sitting at very close to the same stage. My knuckles are just healing from the 'in the ends' sanding.
I ended up using a combination of a sanding sponge, some plywood cut (well, left) flat on one side and curved on the other (I used a big wood rasp) until one end was ~ 0.25 inch thick (from a 3/4 inch ply). I then rubber-cemented a piece of sandpaper on it.
Of course, a piece of sandpaper in the hand ended up being very useful too!

[videoguy]

Looken good... smile.gif smile.gif Phil
Oh one way to avoid sanding in the endsyou could glass in a flotation chamber in each end smile.gif smile.gif

[brian.cunningham]

:cool:

[cs]

Ya know videoguy you hit on it. The books calls for floatation chambers anyway, so after I read your post I went down and glued up the strips for them. I will cut them out tommorow.

Chad

[Todd Bradshaw]

Sand the end anyway. You want the glass inside the tank down tight on the wood for strength and to seal the back sides of the strips. Float tanks aren't always absolutely watertight. One of my early Wilderness boats got water in one tank and it soaked the strips enough to discolor their outsides under the glass, before I could tear the tank out and re-seal it.

[whb]

Why sand. Why not use a small paint scraper and grind the corners off.

Should be faster, cleaner and way easier on the knuckles etc.

Howard

[rbgarr]

This is another kind of 'plane/scraper w/handle' as mentioned above. It's sort of like a pivoting spokeshave on a stick. The blade and face usually have a very shallow convex arc. I believe they were intemded to be used for scraping branded or painted names off wood packing crates. They can be very handy for other uses. I use mine for backing out planks, for example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3284457788&category=13874

What camera did you get? It does a good job.

[ 04-06-2004, 03:02 AM: Message edited by: rbgarr ]

[cs]

Yeah it may take too good of a photo. :rolleyes:

It is a Kodak DC4530 with 5 megapixals, capable of taking photos at a maximum dissolution of 2588 x of 1954. Of course what you see here has been reduced to 640.

Todd, what you say makes sense. In those corners I will sand (or scrap) them down to a good surface, but not a perfect (glue spots go away) surface.

Chad

[cs]

You reckon that plane on E-bay would work in those tight spaces? Got a little money in my PayPal account and the auction ends today.

Chad

[Popeye]

Have you met Mister Canoe Head yet?

If you turn her over and crawl under your nu you will be able to inspect for, and fix, any gaps between the planks.

Spring launch, that's a good one, i gotta go tell the boys. smile.gif

[cs]

I saw those when taking her off of the forms. Before glassing and after the initial sanding I will look for those gaps and fill them and than do a final sanding and than cover it in glass.

Chad

[Bruce Taylor]

Nice work, Chad.

That Stanley looks a bit tall for the tight spots.

Your local hardware store should carry a standard long-handled scraper, like this one:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid110/pee633e5ee717dac797527c2fdb9c3c4a/f91c69bc.jpg

For an aggressive cut, you can burnish the blade (same procedure as for a standard cabinet or card scraper).

[ 04-06-2004, 08:15 AM: Message edited by: Bruce Taylor ]

[Popeye]

She looks to me to be quite beamy, stable and full towards the ends, designed to carry significant loads and to turn on a dime.

Does the design call for an epoxy fillet going into the inner stems?

[ 04-06-2004, 08:16 AM: Message edited by: popeye ]

[cs]

It does. The design also called for the strip on each side to come together on the stems. I added a strip from stem to stem that the strips come into and thus they have a better conection at the stem. I will put a little thickned epoxy inside the stems where the strips meet the stems to help reinforce this area.

Chad

[cs]

This image kinda shows the keel strip I added and how I brought the strips on the sides into it. It also shows the difference between my new and old camera.

http://a6.cpimg.com/image/B4/2F/28340916-e964-01E00168-.jpg

Chad