What type of trailer for Core Sound Spritsail?

[fleetwood]

We've been looking for a trailer for our new 20' Core Sound Spritsail Skiff. The boat will be on the trailer in a shed when not used. What type of trailer is best to minimize damage over time to the wood - all rollers, or center rollers with two side fabric(carpet-like) covered bunks? We thought rollers may create pressure point damage .... and the bunks may create moisture problems/rot. Weighs about 800 lbs.

[Thad]

I like a flatbed for most traditional boats.

[Tom Lathrop]

Either two wide transverse bunks all the way past the chines or longitudinal bunks under the air tank walls. The forward bulkhead should rest on the forward transverse bunk. Putting rollers or a bunk on centerline will avoid the keel or stem from hitting the trailer on some ramps. Make sure the center bunk fits to the hull with the two side bunks to avoid the any distorting force on the hull when it's tied down.

I prefer bunks to rollers on plywood boats.

No worries about wet bunks. Been doing this for 40 years, even without epoxy coating on the hull, with no problem.

A CS 20 on the trailer should weigh between 500 and 600 lbs unless it is filled with other gear.

[ 12-12-2005, 09:49 AM: Message edited by: Tom Lathrop ]

[Venchka]

Look for a trailer capacity of 1,200-1,500 pounds, 12" tires minimum, 13" tires even better. My 900 pound Caledonia yawl rides on a 1,250 pound trailer with 13" tires beautifully.

Good luck!

Wayne
In Texas. :D

[ 12-12-2005, 09:42 AM: Message edited by: Venchka ]

[Thorne]

If you have the option, go for a sprung trailer -- many trailers that size are built for powerboats and are WAY too stiff for wooden boats.

If you will be trailering only short distances, no worries. But if you plan long trips or off-paved-road travel, go for springs/shocks if available and affordable.

[ 12-12-2005, 03:59 PM: Message edited by: Thorne ]

[Venchka]

Originally posted by Thorne:
If you have the option, go for a sprung trailer -- many trailers that size are built for powerboats and are WAY too stiff for wooden boats.

If you will be trailering only short distances, no worries. But if you plan long trips or off-paved-road travel, go for springs/shocks if available and affordable.First of all, if anybody knows where to buy a springs/shocks suspended trailer, please tell me. I beat the bushes hard in North America and came up empty.

Secondly, if a boat like mine at 900 pounds is riding on a trailer designed to carry 1,250 maximimum, why are the springs too stiff? If I'm loading the springs to roughly 75% of their capacity, they should have enough give to keep from beating the boat up. I also have a bit of reserve capacity for full ice chests, gear, etc.

Granted, a 200 pound dinghy on a 700 pound set of springs is asking for trouble.

Wayne
In Texas. :D

[Paul Pless]

Wayne, have you ever seen the trailers that Ranger makes for their bassboats. Shocks and springs and get this the axles, have a little differential thats really an oil pump that pumps grease to the bearings constantly. Really nice trailer, course you gets what you pay for - sometimes.

[Venchka]

Nope, I didn't shop in that market. Those trailers would be too stiff for my boat. I bet you can't get the trailer by itself.

Wayne
In Texas. :D

[Thorne]

My trailer is home-built with both shocks and springs, so that doesn't help Wayne and all the other small-wooden-boat owners looking for a sprung trailer.

What about putting the bunks on springs or shocks? Is this a commercial option at all, or would it have to be home-built?