Paint Poll, Please

[Roger Stouff]

Thinking ahead on painting my Gardner skiff currently under construction.

What I'll want is abrasian resistance first and foremost, inside and out.

Hull, gloss, probably a dark color, abrasian resistance.

Inside, semi-gloss or satin, eggshell, cream, etc. Not bright white, but not tan or beige. Easy to clean, durable and tough.

Also, it'll be trimmed with brightwork. Varnish recommendations under the same criteria?

Thanks in advance,
RStouff

[Wiley Baggins]

Having read the thread in its entirety, I'd say take a peek at these two threads:

Boat Soup (?) for the interior... (http://media5.hypernet.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=010041)

Bottom finish (http://media5.hypernet.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=1&t=010210&p=)

[Donn]

I don't think that stuff they spray in pickup beds comes in gloss, but it might come in eggshell. :D

Pettit EZPoxy works pretty well for me, and it's a breeze to touchup.

[Mike B]

Rather than use the bedliner material, I opted for Coat-It. It is an epoxy with graphite and Kevlar fibers already blended. Comes in a 7 lb. container with 1 lb. of hardner.

The stuff is near bullet proof, I am told, and comes with high recommendations from a number of wood driftboat builders. I'll be putting it to the test this winter..:)

Mike

[JimD]

Isocyanate two part polyurethane paint, Sikkens Cetol topcoat (varnish) for the brightwork.

[NormMessinger]

Hinkley uses Awlgrip on their boat hulls. My do they shine.

[Roger Stouff]

I think I'll pass on the bedliner. smile.gif

Any preferences toward the polyurethane paints, or the two-parts? Remember, this boat is going to look classy, but she'll still be a fishing boat. I can have the best of both worlds, right? :cool:

She'll be CPES'd inside, too.

R

[Donn]

EZPoxy on a fishing boat:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid17/pc86afa48448caa94305bcf2524f45807/fdf90bfe.jpg

[Venchka]

Roger,

Get in touch with the folks at Helm Paint & Supply on Earhart Blvd. in New Orleans. 504-861-8179 They sell Smith's CPES under the Restore-It label. WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!! less than anybody elses price. They will UPS it to you. They shipped mine to Maine.

As for the outside bottom, are you thinking about Xynole fabric for abrasion protection? I also read here on the Forum and elsewhere that graphite powder in epoxy makes a tough coating. You could do both-Xynole & the graphite in the last coat of epoxy. Then paint how you want.

My vote: Kirby's paint & Epifanes Rapid-Clear over CPES.

Wayne
In the Swamp. :D

[Roger Stouff]

Bottom will be 4 oz cloth with epoxy, up the sides to the rail, probably. Thanks for the tip about Helm!

[Wild Wassa]

Boat Craft Pacific's two pack water based polyurethane 'Aquacote' is tough and sold in the US. It is a spray-on (best and quickest application). The thing I like about BCP's poly 'Aquacote', is, it can be finished to what ever level you want. You can polish it to glass-like or leave it as a satin finish.

I change the gloss levels of the Aquacote by adding thinner (water) or Floetrol ... that's why it works and it is like having six different paints in the one can.

Warren.

[ 10-06-2004, 02:52 AM: Message edited by: Wild Wassa ]

[RonW]

You say first and most important is abrasion resistance. Try this.

http://www.armorpoxy.com/html/about.htm

I used this on a 18 ft. river dory I built last year, and I am constantly dragging the boat out onto the bank and beaches. So far I have to say that it lives up to the claims of being highly abrasion resistance. I will warn you though that the paint is very thick and needs to be thinned, as well as it likes heat and dryness to cure. It can take a few days to cure enough for another coat.

[paladin]

I have used the ArmorPoxy on the bottoms of skis on a skiplane in Alaska.....works great. Once in a while you find rock or gravel under the snow and the 'Poxy is a heckuva lot cheaper and weeks faster than sending the skis off for resurfacing with the "teflon".........

[paul oman]

Industrial epoxy paints, in colors (black, ivory, etc) are available in the $60 per gallon range and at 10 mils or so, equal to 4 or 5 coats of 'enamel'. To maintain gloss or prevent yellowing there are clear UV blockers of several different qualities that can be applied over the epoxy.

2 part urethanes be they acrylic or polyester polyurethane (like awlgrip) are UV resistant and tougher than epoxy, plus they maintain their gloss although each coat is very thin (say probably under 2 mils). Can be pricy from $60 to about $300 per gallon. Probably nothing different between the $60 and the $300 stuff other than the price of the cars and boats driven by the guys selling the stuff.

Paul Oman
progressive epoxy polymers

[JimD]

The 2 part lpu I've used is Endura brand, but I chose it over other brands for no particular reason except it was available at the local store. Turned out to be great paint.

[John Blazy]

Paul is right on - one part paints (epoxies, polyurethanes, etc) generally aren't as durable as two part systems.

I used cheap Helmsman marine spar varnish (one part, over epoxy sealer) on my boat just for the summer to buy some time, but I plan on pulling a coup de ta on the expensive marine paint world by doing my final main topcoats with a commercial aliphatic acrylic urethane by ICI (Devoe) paints called Devthane 379UVA.

It'll be a little more than half the cost of typical two-part marine LPU's but will easily be near the performance level, if not the same.

I don't have much to lose, since I store the boat indoors anyway. I just want the abrasion resistance.