Jim Hillman
04-11-2006, 07:48 PM
Posted by raven (Member # 1243) on 03-15-2001, 06:31 PM:
I have to replace an entire rail section and was wondering if anybody has a fast method of removing the bungs. I could go at it with a small chisel or knife, but I thought I read something in "Wooden Boat" about a makeshift tool to quicken the process. I've got at least fourty screws to take out. Any help would be appreciated,summer is on the way and I want to be "in" by April! Thanks.
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Posted by Concordia41 on 03-15-2001, 07:25 PM:
It takes a light touch and/or a sense of the depth of the bungs, but drill a small pilot hole in the center of the bung. Next start a screw down the pilot hole. When the tip of the new screw meets the head of the old screw, the bung should back out like magic.
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Posted by Thad (Member # 1797) on 03-15-2001, 08:22 PM:
I drill them out with a brad point bit.
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Posted by Eb (Member # 1019) on 03-15-2001, 10:04 PM:
You say you are replacing an entire rail, so does this mean that you just want to get to the screws quick, or are you trying to get the bungs out without any damage?
Eb
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Posted by Eb (Member # 1019) on 03-15-2001, 10:05 PM:
Forgot to ask what are the bungs set with?
Eb
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Posted by Scott Rosen (Member # 1201) on 03-16-2001, 09:51 AM:
A Forstner bit the same diameter as the bung will work nicely.
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Posted by Ross Faneuf (Member # 904) on 03-16-2001, 10:24 AM:
I also freehand them with a brad-point bit. An alternative which also works is a bullet-point machine bit.
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Posted by R Joynt (Member # 3054) on 03-16-2001, 12:22 PM:
Raven, try using an old wood brace (the old drill that your grandfather used to use), chuck a woodscrew in it and drill away. It will stop when it hits the head of the screw and come out like a champagne cork! Works like a charm! Doesn't mess up the hole at all.
Bob
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Posted by JMAC (Member # 2575) on 03-16-2001, 07:44 PM:
Having achieved the status of "Bung Boy" early on in my career after refastening a rather large cabin cruiser, I would say go with an ice pick sharpened to a chisel point. The screw in the bit brace can work or it can crumble the wood. A forstner bit or any sort of drilling out has the potential of damaging the screw head and also will leave chips and bits to pick out anyways. The method I use gets the bung removed in five moves all using the weaknesses of wood to your advantage.If you want to know more let me know, I'm out of time.
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Posted by raven (Member # 1243) on 03-20-2001, 08:55 PM:
quote:
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Originally posted by Thad:
I drill them out with a brad point bit.
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thanks, i used a brad point bit and things went along pretty quickly. Raven
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I have to replace an entire rail section and was wondering if anybody has a fast method of removing the bungs. I could go at it with a small chisel or knife, but I thought I read something in "Wooden Boat" about a makeshift tool to quicken the process. I've got at least fourty screws to take out. Any help would be appreciated,summer is on the way and I want to be "in" by April! Thanks.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Concordia41 on 03-15-2001, 07:25 PM:
It takes a light touch and/or a sense of the depth of the bungs, but drill a small pilot hole in the center of the bung. Next start a screw down the pilot hole. When the tip of the new screw meets the head of the old screw, the bung should back out like magic.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Thad (Member # 1797) on 03-15-2001, 08:22 PM:
I drill them out with a brad point bit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by Eb (Member # 1019) on 03-15-2001, 10:04 PM:
You say you are replacing an entire rail, so does this mean that you just want to get to the screws quick, or are you trying to get the bungs out without any damage?
Eb
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Posted by Eb (Member # 1019) on 03-15-2001, 10:05 PM:
Forgot to ask what are the bungs set with?
Eb
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Posted by Scott Rosen (Member # 1201) on 03-16-2001, 09:51 AM:
A Forstner bit the same diameter as the bung will work nicely.
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Posted by Ross Faneuf (Member # 904) on 03-16-2001, 10:24 AM:
I also freehand them with a brad-point bit. An alternative which also works is a bullet-point machine bit.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Posted by R Joynt (Member # 3054) on 03-16-2001, 12:22 PM:
Raven, try using an old wood brace (the old drill that your grandfather used to use), chuck a woodscrew in it and drill away. It will stop when it hits the head of the screw and come out like a champagne cork! Works like a charm! Doesn't mess up the hole at all.
Bob
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Posted by JMAC (Member # 2575) on 03-16-2001, 07:44 PM:
Having achieved the status of "Bung Boy" early on in my career after refastening a rather large cabin cruiser, I would say go with an ice pick sharpened to a chisel point. The screw in the bit brace can work or it can crumble the wood. A forstner bit or any sort of drilling out has the potential of damaging the screw head and also will leave chips and bits to pick out anyways. The method I use gets the bung removed in five moves all using the weaknesses of wood to your advantage.If you want to know more let me know, I'm out of time.
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Posted by raven (Member # 1243) on 03-20-2001, 08:55 PM:
quote:
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Originally posted by Thad:
I drill them out with a brad point bit.
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thanks, i used a brad point bit and things went along pretty quickly. Raven
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